ISSUE 12 DECEMBER 2014

Clothing an Urban

Wall

Trees for Small

Gardens

BONSAI MINT

BOOK GIVEAWAY TO LUCKY READER1

WIN thisBookwith The Indigenous Gardener, Quivertree Publications and author, Marijke Honig

INDIGENOUS PLANT PALETTES - An Essential Guide to Plant Selection, by Marijke Honig

At last: a South African how-to with everything you need to know to create a dream indigenous gar-den. Accomplished landscape designer and botanist Marijke Honig puts forward the fundamentals in this comprehensive reference that is at once inspirational, practical and easy to use.

• Gardeners and homeowners • Landscape architects and garden designers • Architects, developers, those involved in the green industry • Students of horticulture and landscaping

This book is all about choosing the right plants for aparticular space and purpose in your garden. Marijkeshares her vast bank of knowledge and experience tohelp you assess the conditions in your garden, selectthe perfect plants and grow them successfully.

HOW TO ENTER: • CLICK HERE, to open up the competition form.Fill

in your details - physical address is required to receive the prize via courier - and click SEND!

• Newsletter subscribers get a direct link via email• You can also enter via our Facebook page.

Closing date: 10 January 2015TERMS AND CONDITIONS: 1. Participation is free and open to all 2. The judges decision is final 3. Winners are randomly selected after the closing date 4. Offer valid for SA residents only 5. The winners will be notified by email

‘A fresh approach to landscaping withindigenous plants and a must for all plant lovers - from private gardeners to landscaping professionals.’

- Dr Ernst van Jaarsveld

IN THIS ISSUE

Clothing an Urban WallA living wall P8

Indigenous Trees for Small GardensBy Jenny Dean

P18

Bonsai MintA succulent Plectranthus for sun P 16 P26Crossberry

RaisinsThe Grewia family offers bountiful fruit to wildlife around the country

Potted InspirationBy Jenny Dean

P29 P32Shades of Blue and SilverHelichrysum petiolare and Felica

Don’t over-pave ParadiseMuch of our garden space being paved over as an extension of the house, losing its previous use as a horticultural area.

P24

Garden Show Request from BotSoc Pietermarizburg

What’s in Flower ............................... p 6December Task Card ............................. p 7

BOOK GIVEAWAY TO 1 LUCKY READER!

Contact us: anno@theindigenousgardener.co.za Publisher: The Indigenous Gardener Editor: Anno TorrContributing writers: Anno Torr, Jenny Dean, Photographers: Anno Torr, Andrea Abbott, Jenny Dean, Jane Troughton, James Halle, Some image via Wikicommons, acknowledgement given; Graphic Design: digitlab and Anno Torr Disclaimers and Copyrights: Opinions expressed in this magazine do not reflect those of The Indigenous Gardener or any project related to The Indigenous Gardener. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, The Indigenous Gardener cannot be held liable for inadvertent mistakes. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written consent of the publisher.

P15 P3

Dear Readers,

It has been a month of hanging cloud and frequent rains here on the East Coast, and gardens in the hills above Durban are often shrouded in mist. A garden of trees keeps soils humus-rich from continual leaf drop and plants are growing a mile-a-minute! Ground foraging and insectivorous birds are having a ball! With fallen twigs a plenty, Hadeda are building nests in the Flatcrown at the bottom of the garden. My ‘disordered’ garden is filled with building blocks for wildlife homes yet I have bats living in the air conditioner. This old box sits at the top of the bedroom wall, a relic from the 1970’s when the house was built; it still works and is used once or twice a year in February. I may be prepared to suffer through these excessive days in future, knowing what resides there. The put in an appearance much like the little Cocktail plant, Murdannia simplex, named by the society ladies of the time as the flowers opened as they poured their G & T’s. The bats though have a purpose, reducing the mozzies and miggie populations, making cocktail hour a lot more pleasant.

It makes one think about wildlife habitats, and the compromises they make to survive the urban landscape. Yet, with a little thought and some gentler gardening, we can make their lives a little easier, and enrich our lives at the same time. Watching wildlife in the garden is fascinating and absorbing. I gave a talk the other week on just what IS indigenous garden design, which highlighted the need for urban habitats, and promised to include much of the script and images in this month’s magazine. Space though has pushed it onto the January 2015 list and I do apologise to those who were hoping to read it – but 2015 is not too far away!

Looking back over this year, there are a number of points that have been brought into clearer focus for me and we’ll

be discussing them in the new year:

• the desperate need for gardeners/ homeowners to respect the lives of wildlife

• the desperate need for gardeners/ homeowners to respect the lives of wildlife

• the current style of garden design being too human focused a need to challenge current perceptions about what is order and disorder within a garden

• when walking in a nature reserve, the chances of three dogs on a leash going the same way around a tree trunk, are slim to none!

The wonderful year-end break beckons and we have a winner in our Christmas Hamper Giveaway – congratulations to Elena Russell from New Germany. See the info box below for the names of those who will be receiving the calendars and task cards. Thanks so much to Rondaval Soaps and Leaf Lotions for sponsoring their products. Enjoy.

We are so excited to announce another prize; a fantastic, newly launched gardening book will be on its way to 1 lucky reader in January. Thanks to Quivertree Publications and the author, Marijke Honig, ‘Indigenous Plant Palettes – An Essential Guide to Plant Selection’ is up for grabs. Please see Facebook, Website and the magazine for further details. Good luck.

I’d like to wish every reader a serene and pleasurable Christmas and New Year. Stay safe, keep reading and gardening, and we’ll see you in the New Year.

Happy reading

Anno

4

FROM THE EDITORS DESK…

Christmas Hamper GiveawayWinner: Congratulations to Elena Russell from New Germany who wins the full Christmas Hamper. We’ll be in touch shortly.

Runners-up:The following win the 2015 Indigenous Gardner calendar and a set of monthly task cards. Congratulations. We’ll be in touch shortly. Stewart Pert from Eden Glen, Dilys Jones from Molen Drift, Tony Cooper from Pretoria and M. Rieckhoff from Sandton.

55

Contact: Jenny Dean Cell: 0824694686Email: jennydeanwildflowers@gmail.com

• Residential gardens big and small • Housing developments/ Office parks • Structured to suit needs and budget • Hourly consultations • Nursery hours: Fri: Sat:

8:30 - 4 pm8:30 - 1 pm

WHAT’S IN FL WER?The dreaded Lily-borer is active this month, targeting the soft perennials and bulbs, like Crinum, Amaryllis, Clivia, Nerines and Agapanthus. If you’re unable to control them by hand, try Margaret Roberts Biological Caterpillar Insecticide. Remember though, that all other pests should be controlled by the predators you have invited into your garden through eco-friendly gardening methods. The lilyborer, being an alien, has no natural predator. If you have caterpillars eating your lemon trees, watch them with delight. They are the larvae of the gorgeous Citrus Swollowtail butterfly.

TREES:Antidesma venosum Tasselberry

Buddleja saligna False Olive Calodendrum capense Cape Chestnut (1)Dais cotonifolia Pompon Tree

Diospyros lycoides Bushveld bluebush

Erythrina humeana Dwarf Coral Tree

Ilex mitis Cape holly

Kiggelaria africana Wild Peach

Millettia grandis Umzimbeet

Searsia chirendensis Karee

Tabernaemontana ventricosa Toad Tree

SHRUBS: Bauhinia galpinii Pride of de Kaap (7)

Gardenia thunbergia White Gardenia

Karomia speciosa Wild Parasolflower

Leucospermum cordifolium Pincushion

Ocimum labiatum Pink Sage

Psychotria capensis Black birdberry

Salvia chamaleagnea African sage (3)Syncolostemon transvaalensis Pink Salvia

Tephrosia species (4)Tinnea barbataGloriosa superba Flamelily (2)Jasminum multipartitum Starry Wild-Jasmine

PERENNIALS/GC/ BULBSAgapanthus spp.Albucca nelsonii Nelson’s Albucca

Aptenia cordifolia Aptenia (6)Aristea ecklonii Blue Stars (9)Zantedeschia aethiopica Arum Lily (8)Bulbine frutescens Stalked Bulbine

Cholorophytum saundersiae Weeping Anthiricum

Delosperma herbeum White Mountain VygieDietes bicolor Yellow Wild Iris

Felicia amelloides Blue Marguerite

Gazania speciesGlotiphyllum spp. 4Helichrysum cymosum Gold carpet (5)Pelargonium peltatum Ivy-leaved Pelargonium

Tulbaghia violacea Wild Garlic

1

4

2

5

3

6

7 8 9

6

1

Feed/ Maintain: use organic fertilisers or compost• Feed strong growing groundcovers like Gazania and Aptenia • Feed all flowering plants with an organic fertiliser• Feed containers and hanging baskets• Summer rainfall gardens receiving good rains will need to feed all plants regularly as

heavy and continuous rains can leach out vital nutrients• Renew mulch on all beds - the hottest months are around the corner

Prune/ Trim/ Deadhead: leave some flowers to set seed• Still time to prune Leonotus leonurus (Wild dagga)• Dead head groundcovers and perennials regularly• Cut off dead leaves on Dierama, Watsonia and Crinum if completely yellowed• Trim spring- flowering shrubs• Cut up trees and shrubs as needed to improve air-circulation in this damp heat. Thin

out around perennials and soft shrubs if showing signs of fungal disease and stem rot - Gazanias in particular may suffer this month. Ensure soils drain well

• Dead-head groundcovers and perennials to produce further flowers, but allow some to set seed for food, and to be used as nesting materials

Propagate / Plant / Remove: • Collect seed of Gerbera and Felicia spp.• Plant Nerines for autumn flowers, while Gladioli can still be planted for extended colour• Take semi-hardwood cuttings of Pelargoniums and Hypericum spp.• Collect the plump seed of Crinum species, scrape off the outer coating and plant im-

mediately but only partially bury them.

Leucospermum cordifoliumIndigofera jucundaRotheca myricoidesEucomis autumnalis Helichrysum cymosum Plectranthus zuluensisStrelitzia reginae (3)

Aptenia cordifoliaDelosperma herbeumZantedeschia aethiopicaAgapanthus species Tinnea barbataPavetta lanceolataBulbine frutescens (4)

Gazania krebsianaChlorophytum saundersiaeAlbucca nelsonii (2)Syncolostemon transvaalensisPavetta lanceolataTurrea obtusifoliaBergeranthus scapiger (1)

WHAT’S INFLOWER

Pests and Diseases: our website has earth-friendly remedies to try• The Amaryllis lilyborer is active on Clivia, Crinum, Haemanthus and Agapanthus spp. • Look for plants suffering from fungal diseases and rotting leaves and stems: cut

away some undergrowth and thin out the plants to improve air circulation.• Look for outbreaks of red spider mite, whitefly and rust

DECEMBER 2014 Summer begins

77

Clothing an Urban Wall8

As the driveway gates slid open and curious eyes took in the full extent of the somewhat industrial façade of the house, I caught sight of a clump of

blue flowering Agapanthus. Though we all have a fond-ness for our South African ‘Aggie’, it is so commonly used the world over they no longer elicit in me a gasp of wonder. That is until I saw them, 5 m up, against a matching blue sky! I laughed out loud with excitement! As an entrance garden, this is a show-stopper.

The living wall, designed and installed by landscape gardener, James Hallé, is only 9 months old, yet looks well -established and is clearly thriving. He has spent the last couple of years designing the fabric he uses on his structures, and its success is plain to see.

The idea of growing plants to cover bare walls is not new; for centuries, creepers like the common Ivy and dreaded Tickey Creeper, have been used to clad the fa-çade of buildings. These plants are rooted in the ground and take years to creep their way upwards. Living walls, on the other hand, create almost instant cover from top to bottom, each specimen merely needing time to ‘grow in’. Made up of a mosaic of plants; groundcovers, bulbs, perennials, and even small shrubs, they root into a sub-strate attached to the wall. Nutrients are absorbed from rainfall as well as an irrigation supply that delivers water across the wall surface. This is not as new a technology as we imagine. French botanist and artist, Patrick Blanc, created the first vertical garden, a ‘mur- vegetal’ (wall vegetation), over 30 years ago. Designs and materials though have made significant progress.

Current renewed interest is mostly environmentally driv-en, though the artistic beauty of a well -designed display has resulted in many being installed purely for aesthetic reasons. The ever-decreasing size of home gardens, and increase in the number of apartment dwellers means space for gardening is severely restricted in our cement cities. Making use of the vertical plane would seem to be an excellent solution, but they should not be seen as a passing trend, for they offer too many other benefits.

• Reduce the heat island effect by reducing the amount of both absorbed and reflected heat.

• Cushions urban noise.• Lowers ambient temperature of immediate surround-

ings through transpiration from plants• Cleans the air by absorbing pollutants.• Cools the indoor temperature of buildings on which

they are attached, limiting the need for air-condition-ing, and improving their effectiveness.

• Can provide protective habitats for urban wildlife.• Softens the harsh glare and reduces the visual

impact of city buildings.Clothing an Urban Wall9999

As an entrance garden, this is a show-stopper.

While vegetables and herbs already spill from wall containers, and espaliered fruit trees hug the sides of patio gardens, a living wall design takes vertical gardening to the next level.

Jane’s desire for a vertical garden began with the mesmeriz-ing beauty of a Patrick Blanc wall she came across in France. These walls are a hydroponic system where irrigation piping sits behind the planting material – in the humid, sub-tropical climate of Durban North, the viability of this design could prove chal-lenging. A more viable option was one that uses containers, and Jane came close to signing up for it until she met James at the Botanical Society stand at the Home & Garden show in Durban. The central piece was a small, vertical garden that strongly echoed a Patrick Blanc creation. Jane was sold.

For a living wall to be successful, it must be a sustainable design. In choosing plants for his walls, James looks at plant communities that work together. He works on arranging them into a mosaic of foliage where the various elements are able to retain their individuality, rather than becoming merely a mish-mash of foliage, while fitting together to create a stunning and harmonious picture. Texture, leaf colour and seasonal flow-ers are planned for year round colour. As the plants grow their leaves and roots will overlap forming multiple layers over time, and this aspect of a vertical garden should be taken into account when choosing plants. Plant species used should be long-lived with little physical input required from the gardener, particularly on structures as high as this beauty in Durban North. As Jane says, “Once you get a few metres above ground level logistics have to be considered”.

10

Top right: James attaches the fabric over the PVC board. ©Jane TroughtonBelow: the BotSoc wall that inspired Jane to use this method. designed by James. ©James Halle

11

The best systems work on an automated watering timer that distributes nutrient enriched water evenly across the planting surface. Equally as important as good design and installation, is plant choice. Unsuitable plants soon die off and frequent plant replacement and maintenance causes many vertical walls to be unsustainable, short-lived and ineffective – and a waste of money.

COMPONENTS:Support structure: first and foremost, a good design ensures the supporting building remains dry. The waterproof PVC board is attached to a stainless steel frame, in itself, attached at vari-ous intervals to the building. This provides the stable structure onto which everything else is secured. A narrow gap between board and building keeps plants and moisture off the building surface, providing further insulation.

Growing fabric: 2 layers of specially designed hydrophilic fabric is attached to the PVC board, with irrigation pipes meshed between them. Aside from absorbing and distributing water to plants, the fabric also doubles as a support for the roots, into which they can attach themselves and spread. Unlike container bound plants, those growing on these vertical walls have no space limitations for root growth – bar competition from neigh-bours.

Water supply: the system James has installed takes nutrient- enriched water from the near-by Tilapia pond and pumps it to the top of the wall. Gravity goes to work, pulling water back down to earth. The fabric slows its movement, absorbing and hold-ing it for a moment, giving plant roots a chance to drink. Plants are inserted into pockets cut into the fabric, filled with a light planting mix. Says James; “We wanted to boost the biological potential of the fabric so added Bounce back, worm cast and a fungal inoculate to the mix.” James does suggest that, though they used a submersible pump it turned out to be underpowered for the system they had planned. An external pump would have given us the pressure we needed. Two pipes dispense water, one from the top, the other, midway down its length. A cement trough

A cement trough catches the water drips and creates a moist micro-climate for the Wild Impatiens. Below: rocks protect the water pipe that moves water from pond to wall.

12

below the wall, stretching across the entire width captures the excess water as it drip off.

Watering regime: unlike ground-based garden beds, where water sits and soaks in, gravity causes rapid movement of water down the vertical surface, so a reliable and set water regime is critical. When first planted, the wall was watered about 3 times a day, getting a total of 7 minutes per day. Currently though, says owner Jane, the automatic irrigation system is set to run for 2 minutes at 08:00 am and 2 Minutes at midday. In the dry winter season, and this year was the worst in 38 years, an extra minute was added. Watering regime is influenced by aspect and plant type, says James. A succulent wall would need less water.

Plant selection: as with any garden bed, plants should be chosen to suit general area climate, microclimate around the structure, and general situation. According to James, “ A lot of the plants are cliff and slope dwellers, but not all. Our plant mix was quite experimental. I have found though that the most suc-cessful plants are those that are adapted to shallow soils, and rocky slopes and cliffs. Plants such as Crassula pellucida that root easily into the fabric are very useful as ground covers”.

12

Above: fabric wraps around the edge of the wall; Below: a mix of Plectranthus ciliatus, Impatiens hochstetteri and Selaganella kraussianaOpposite page: top right: the strong Clivia miniata stem is sta-pled to the fabric; green moss adds another habitat; Clivia roots are now interwoven into the fabric. Bottom right: Jane in here element as she helps to plant up the wall.

Impatiens hochstetteri, for damp shade ©Jane Troughton

13

South Africa has a topography that ensures a diverse selection of cliff and rock dwellers one can use on vertical walls. Many of these species have roots that are able to store water in times of prolonged drought, which will stand them in good stead on a vertical wall should the irrigation system fail at any point. Small size plants are chosen as they have the best chance of taking root and surviving the initial period. There is also a better chance of fitting the root ball into the tiny planting pocket! This does mean that a fair amount of the backing fabric will be visable until plants grow in.

With water availability such an important factor in plant choice, the use of succulents and water-wise groundcovers seems logi-cal. However, many of these, like the familiar and widely used Vygie, are not only short-lived but tend to die off in the centre, causing maintenance problems if used on inaccessible walls, like public buildings. Look at compact growth habits and plant longevity to keep plant maintenance at a minimum.

Aspect: Jane’s wall receives sun until about 10:30 in mid-winter, but in summer the sun illuminates much of the wall until about midday. Being so high and close to the house, not all areas of the wall receive equal amounts of sun/shade though, with the lower section adjacent to the ground being shaded year round. This has resulted in perfect conditions for moist-area loving plants, like the Common Wild Impatiens, (Impatiens hochstetteri), Krauss’ spike moss, (Selaginella kraussiana), and, of course, emerald green moss! The upper-most section is exposed to coastal winds and rain; roots need to be strong enough to hold on, and leaves able to withstand shredding. With the top of the wall always drier than the lower sections, plants were positioned accordingly.

On-going maintenance: a ladder is safely secured via hooks, to a bar across the top of the wall gives full access for periodic maintenance. This will be painted black in about 6 months time, so it is less noticeable. The water pipes and pump are at ground level, protected from garden implements with a cover of rocks. These are easily acessible for serviceing and repair work.

©Jane Troughton

Plant list: Plant choice is site specific:

• Aspect – sun, shade, mixed• General climate: from inland frosts to coastal winds and

humidity• Growth habits: life-span, clumping, spreading, drought-

hardy

It has been a short few months between my visits, and, not withstanding the humidity and drenching spring rains of coastal Durban, the speed with which the plants have grown and roots become interwoven into the fabric, is remarkable. No plant is showing signs of struggle; in fact, the stems of the larger spe-cies, like Clivia and Arum, stand strong, easily holding the weight of leaf and flower. Had water and nutrients been insuf-ficient, the lack of turgidity, essential in plant cells to keep them standing upright, would be obvious.

Many of the plants have flowered; Scadoxus, Ornithogallum, Chlorophytum, Plectranthus and Tulbaghia, and, of course, the Aggies, are in full bloom. Space has been left to a few gems like Begonias and Streptocarpus, to take root and, hopefully, not get lost among the Plectranthus. These too have flowered. Low down, where the wall remains moist for most of the year, Jane kept a patch bare, and moss soon glistened emerald green among the plants. It truly is a fully integrated living system.

This garden, from the living wall, to the roof garden and natural pool, has so inspired the way I now think about my outdoor space, and I’m hoping for another visit next year. For those inter-ested in reading further about Jane’s exciting Gorgeous Green-house project, log onto her blog: www. gorgeousgreenhouse.wordpress.com. Her home will be featured early next year on Earth Beat, DSTV Channel 190.

Haemanthus albiflosKalanchoe longifloraOrnithogalum juncifoliumPelargonium tongaensePelargonium transvaalense ‘Pondo’Plectranthus ciliatusPlectranthus purpuratusPlectranthus verticiliatusPteris creticaPteris vittataScadoxus membranaceusSelaginella kraussianaSenecio azioidesStreptocarpus xTalbotia elegansTulbaghia violaceaZantedeschia aethiopica

Adiantum capilis venerisAeollanthus parvifoliusAgapanthus africanusAlbuca fastigataAnsellia africanaAsparagus densiflorus ‘Cwebe’Begonia dregeiBegonia sutherlandiiBerkeya speciosaBlechnum punctulatumBulbine natalensisCheilanthes viridifoliumChlorophytum comosumChlorophytum saundersiaeClivia miniataCrassula multicavaCrassula pellucidaCrassula spathulata

14

Streptocarpus x. ©Jane Troughton Begonia species ©Jane Troughton

Below left: Blechnum species Right: bright yellow Berkeya speciosa for a sunny spot

Below: Asparagus densiflorus adds a feathery texture.

15151515

The Botanical Society KwaZulu-Natal Inland Branch are looking for indigenous gardens to showcase on their 2015 Indigenous Open Gardens Show, set for April 2015. While they are looking for suitable gardens in the Howick/Merrivale area in particular, they would also love to hear about indigenous gardens in the Pietermaritzburg/Hilton area. The criteria? Mostly indigenous!

If you are keen to showcase your garden please contact: Sally Johnson: 072-1379408 / sarahjarvis.johnson@gmail.com Mary Thrash: 072-6141612 / thrashmjm@gmail.com

Garden request forAutumn 2015

BOTSOC Pietermaritzburg Indigenous Open Gardens

www.facebook.com/botsockzninland

BONSAI MINT

16

A succulent herb for sunny to lightly shaded situations

16

17

It was with great delight that I discoverd this little gem at the Botanical Society Plant Fair in Durban this year. The label read, ‘Rubberman’, and I imagined a plant capable of wonderfully

contorted shapes though I imagine this common name stems from the colour and texture of the stems. Ernst van Jaarsveld though, who gives his name to this lovely member of the ‘Plec’ family, offers a rather more sedate common name, that of Bon-sai Mint. Rubberman though, does capture the imagination. Description: a succulent herb for sunny to lightly shaded situations, Rubberman can be either erect or low and spread-ing in habit, though compact in form and slow growing. Unique among Plectranthus species, the Rubberman has thickened or swollen stems with distinct segments and joints along the stems, which can be as thick as 50 mm in diameter at the base. Leaves and flowers are typical of the genus. The ovate leaves 20-3- x 10-25 mm in size, edged with 3-5 teeth, with soft, delicate hairs and pale to reddish brown gland-dots on the under surface. Tips have a blunt end. Inflorescence is 50-170 mm long, carrying between 2 and 6 flowers. These are beautiful, whitish to light blue, with dark purple markings. The inflores-cence stands above the leaves, with the flowers, ar the tip being the first to open. Flowering extends from October through to May. April though is typically Plectranthus season, so expect an April flush of flowers.

A relative newcomer to the family, P. ernstii was discovered in 1977, on the cliffs of Oribi Gorge in Southern KZN, by Ernst and Erma van Jaarsveld. Natural habitat is exposed to partially exposed sandstone, in river gorges or Scarp Forest. With stems often covered in lichen plants are well camouflaged among the rocks. Depending on season and aspect, plants occur in both full sun and light shade. Plants root in rock crevices where humus collects, semi-succulent stems able to gather water and nutrients and survive dry cliff-face situations.

Mimicking both the rock habitat and natural plant communities makes for a most attractive and thriving garden display; its eco-mates in the wild are Gasteria croucheri, Crassula perfo-rata and C. perfoliata, Delosperma sp. and Aeollanthus parvifolius. This little mix would suit areas receiving between 800 – 1500 mm of annual, summer rainfall, and where frost if light or absent. Leaves turn rose-pink in autumn as rains dry

up and temperatures drop. It is a slow grower with a compact growth form that does well in pots, hanging baskets and rocker-ies. Prune in late winter to remove weak growth or dead and diseased stems.

Five cultivars have been introduced: ‘Forster’s Foley’, discovered by Tony Abbott on the Farm Forster’s Foley along the Mtamvuna River, has dark blue, mauve flowers. ‘Msikaba’ from the Msikaba River, has very succulent leaves with elongated branches that tend to droop. ‘Oribi’, is the original form from the Oribi Gorge in KZN, has light green leaves and light blue flowers. Growth form is squat and stems short and is the most popular form used in bonsai work. ‘Mtentu’ has a decumbent growth habit and long stems and originates from the Mtentu River, south of Port Edward. ‘Sikuba’ has elongated drooping stems that are less swollen than the other cultivars. Flowers have darker markings.

P. ernstii is pollinated by insects, though fragrant leaves are a possible defence against insect predators. Propagate via seed sown in spring or early summer, or cuttings which can be taken through the year, and root fairly rapidly.

17

Above from left:Gasteria croucheri; Crassula perfo-rata. Below Delosperma species

18

Pavetta lanceolata

Indigenous Trees forSmall Gardens By Jenny Dean

The list of indigenous trees suitable for small gardens is a long and exciting one... we have many small treasures and the difficulty is selecting just one or even two for your

garden. Here is a list of my favourites, chosen not only for their small size but also for their flowers, good looks and bird attract-ing abilities. Key to having a wildlife friendly garden (and isn’t this what we are all aiming for?) is attracting and encouraging insect life. For some of us, this may involve a change in mind-set. Chewed leaves, even bare branches stripped of their foliage are part of this story. Butterflies, jewels of the garden, mean caterpillars. Aphids sucking at tender new shoots are a hearty meal for Cape white eyes. Chamaeleons exist on those flies, beetles, flying termites, crickets and grasshoppers which you may despise. If your garden is insect friendly you will attract some special birds – warblers, flycatchers, batis’ and shrikes, all of which are exclusively insectivorous.

The list which follows takes all of the above into account.

Xylotheca kraussiana. African Dog Rose

An African Dog rose in a garden is pure joy. Scented white flow-ers with yellow stamens adorn the tree most of the summer... what better Christmas tree could you have? It is food plant of the Blood-red Acraea and Window Acraea butterflies and this means a host of caterpillars munch their way through Xylothe-ca’s leaves. This is no cause for despair, but rather a celebration for the cuckoos which will arrive for the feast. Hairy caterpillars are such a treat for these beautiful birds. The story doesn’t end here – fruit follows the banquet of caterpillars. Birds arrive within minutes of the fruit splitting to reveal shiny black seeds embed-ded within a bright red aril. Xylotheca thrives in warm climates and does not tolerate frost. You can leave the tree to grow to its final size – roughly 4m in the garden. Prune the lower branches away to encourage more of a tree- like shape if you wish. Full sun is needed for the best flowering display although the Xy-lotheca does occur in forest and on forest edges in Nature.

19191919

Right: Acraea butterfly laying eggs © Elaine Kool

Centre right: pupae of Red Acraea

Dog Rose seed pod

Grewia occidentalis. Cross berry.

I marvel at the opportunities a Grewia presents for wildlife. It is a small scrambling tree if left to its own devices. If an upright tree is needed simply prune away any unruly branches and you can train it into a small weeping tree. Our pet goat has done a very successful job in pruning away our Grewia’s lower branches and the tree has simply thrived! As it is host to the Skipper butterflies and also 19 moths, it is essential in a wildlife friendly garden. The lilac flowers produce a most attractive show followed by a yellow “cross” made up of 4 fruits. Cross-berry is extremely frost hardy and also thrives at the coast. Sun is best, but I have seen some lovely specimens growing in a position with morning sun only.

Deinbolia oblongifolia. Dune Soap-berry

To quote David Johnson, well known author, garden and bird expert, the Dune Soap-berry is “the best butterfly tree in the sub tropics”. This is my number one choice for a small garden where attracting wildlife is the main objective.The tree is slender with a mop head of dark green leaves which are often chewed away. Look out for the bright blue and orange Peach Moth. You will also see some superb butterflies such as the Gold Banded Forester and Black-and-Orange Playboy. Flowers are white to cream and attract many insects. Creamy-yellow balls of fruit tightly packed together in multi story layers are held aloft – a party invitation to passing birds. They do not last long as flocks of birds arrive to gobble up the bounty. Deinbolia is happiest in a warm tropical summer and will not survive any frost.

Deinbolia fruit

©Starr via Wikicommons

© Jenny Dean

Orange Peach Moth ©Muhammad Mahdi Karim Wikicommons

Dombeya rotundifolia. Wild Pear.

This is a tree of character – its stem is single and usually crook-ed with a rough grey gnarled bark. The flowers are a sight to behold in late winter through spring. Clouds of white sometimes pinkish blooms are borne on leafless branches. They are slightly scented. The most profuse flowering displays are produced after a dry winter. Dombeya is slow growing and slow to flower, but this is no reason to disregard it as a lovely tree in your small garden. Dry areas are best and this little tree is both cold and fire resistant.

Dombeya rotundifolia © By Ton Rulkens via Wikicommons

Orange Peach Moth ©Muhammad Mahdi Karim Wikicommons

Deinbolia flowers and leaf

Maesa lanceolata. False –Assegai.

This is another lesser known unconventional choice. I have writ-ten about it in a previous issue of The Indigenous Gardener, but it well deserves a place in the list of suitable small trees. Mine is the background to a small fountain and proved to be a perfect choice. Flocks of birds move through the tree searching out insect snacks. (The flowers are very attractive to lots of different tiny insects). The fruit is enjoyed by bulbuls and mousebirds. In short – an unusual and worthwhile choice for a gardener eager to provide diversity and habitat in the garden. It is a wonderful filler in a bush clump.

Pavetta lanceolata. Weeping Brides-bush.

At the time of writing the Pavettas are a mass of white flowers. This delightful plant only just falls into the small tree category as it grows up to 3, 5 m. Pavettas grow beautifully in semi shade but also flower in full sun. Although sunbirds usually visit orange or red flowers, they are often on my Pavettas. The flowers are pollinated by hawk moths. There are many Pavettas suitable for gardens – the trick is to find them in a nursery. Most commonly available are P. lanceolata and P. revoluta, the Dune Brides-bush. The former will withstand some frost but the latter none at all and does best in sandy coastal areas as its common name implies.

There are many more suitable small trees for your garden but a sprinkling of the above will certainly enhance your garden and provide nourishment for wildlife.

22

Pavetta lanceolata Mousebirds love the fruits of Maesa lanceolata

Maesa lanceolata

Rhamnus prinoides. Glossy –leaf or Blinkblaar.

This scrambling tree is most useful for gardeners in very frosty areas. It is not a conventional beauty with big showy flowers - they are small, yellowish green – almost insignificant to the human eye but they attract a lot of insects. The little fruits - red turning black- are borne from January through to August and are a reliable source of nourishment for birds during winter. Rham-nus is the food plant of the Forest –king Emperor butterfly – a real beauty. Rhamnus makes a reasonable little tree even if its shape is a bit unruly.

There are many more suitable small trees for your garden but a sprinkling of the above will certainly enhance your garden and provide nourishment for wildlife.

23232323

Mousebirds love the fruits of Maesa lanceolata

This image and right: Rhanmus prinoides

Don’t Over-Pave ParadiseMuch of our garden space being paved over as an extension of the house, losing its previ-ous use as a horticultural area.

25

Imagine you’re an insect, marooned in the centre of a broad expanse of paving, tiny and exposed to every predator, as well as scorching sun. Half way across, you suddenly become

aware of the heat of the pavement beneath your feet, of an ap-proaching cat, but there is nowhere to hide, no cooling foliage under which to creep.

Many creatures fall victim to predators and weather conditions in urban gardens where, for the most part, there is very little foliage to break up vast tracts of hot paving, tar or gravel. The outdoor entertaining trend, as well as an increase in the number of cars per family, has seen much of our garden space being paved over as an extension of the house, losing its previous use as a horticultural area.

As we introduce indigenous plants and encourage wildlife to share our space, we need to factor in to our designs, the require-ments of even the smallest creatures. One way to do this is to change our hard landscaping plans to ensure they can negotiate all surfaces. Groups of plants strategically placed, like stepping stones, will give animals at least a good chance of crossing safely. Driveways, parking areas, walls and paving often have dead spaces around them; these can be planted with hedging, climbers and wall shrubs. On larger, paved or gravelled areas keep distances between plant displays as short as possible; take out some of the hard material and plant a patchwork of protec-tive groundcovers and perennials. If you are unable to plant into the ground, groups of pots with overhanging foliage will also work, as will a few small stones or rocks around the pots.

Within the garden, bark chip and hay pathways make for cooler wildlife friendly surface materials. When using bricks, lay them on a sand foundation and fill gaps with sand; insects soon excavate little crevices in this softer material, without compro-mising the integrity of the base. These creatures are tiny, after all! Access to soil and plant material is critical for many of our important decomposers, like worms, bees, wasps, spiders and the centipede, to survive. Without an active insect presence in urban gardens, we stand to lose many garden birds and other wildlife for which insects are a staple diet.

We often pave much larger areas than necessary. Reduce the square meters covered by building narrower pathways, for example, and lay the exact amount of parking space needed,

rather than planning for when the entire extended family come to visit once every second year! Sweeping fallen leaves off the paved areas into the edging beds creates earthy habitats filled with soil-bound creatures for birds like robins, thrushes and wagtails. Wathing wildlife enjoy your garden is a gift in this noise-filled industrial world.

25

Don’t it always seem to goThat you don’t know what you got till it’s goneThey paved paradise and put up a parking lotHey now, they paved paradise to put up a parking lotJoni Mitchell - Big Yellow Taxi

25252525

A member of the TILIACEAE genus, the Grewia family of shrubs to small multi-stemmed trees, boasts several Southern African species, occurring in most biomes of our

country. They are excellent garden plants, being popular with birds, butterflies and insects, though many are not considered to be neat enough to include in more traditionally styled gardens. Flower colour ranges from yellow to white or pink, all quite similar in structure.

To differentiate between the many Grewia species, points to compare are: • Habit: creeper or shrub or tree• Older stems being round or square• Hairiness of leaves• Flower colour: white, yellow or pink• Fruit singe, 2-lobed or 4-lobed.

Grewia flavescens: Sandpaper Raisin: known in India and other African countries as Donkey Berry

To gardeners familiar with the flowers of G. occidentalis, the bright yellow flowers of the Sandpaper Raisin come as a bit of a surprise. Growing no more than 5 m high, the Sandpaper Raisin is the choice for small bushveld gardens. This multi-stemmed shrub or small tree makes an excellent screening shrub as part of a wildlife thicket in drier gardens up north, where it is usually found on termite mounds, rocky koppies, and in forest margins. Adapting well to a variety of conditions, this hardy shrub is also frost resistant.

Leaves are bright green and oval in shape, averaging 70 x 30 mm in size with a pointed tip. The surface is rough and hairy to the touch, with irregular serrations along the margin. 3 conspic-uous veins radiate outwards from the base, a common feature of South African Grewia species. Flowers are a bright yellow, with surrounding sepals that are larger and often flushed pink with a centre filled with a thick mass of long yellow stamens. The 5 slender petals often curl backwards. Fruits form singly on short stalks, commonly made up of 2 shallow lobes. Flowering

CROSS-BERRY RAISINS

26

season is summer into autumn (December to March)Wildlife common to the natural habitats of this plant; warthogs, antelopes and baboons and birds, eat the fruits. The stomach acid softens the hard outer casing improving the chances of germination. This species is an excellent choice for new gardens, as they attract a broad range of birds (hornbills love them) whose droppings will seed a number of indigenous species from the surrounding area. Though evergreen under ideal conditions, it can be leafless for up to 3 months where rain is infrequent and temperatures very low. The fruits and leaves of Grewia flavescens are used as food in rural areas of Africa, resulting in the over-exploitation of wild species. For this reason, the Donkey Berry is being investigated as a potential farming crop in Niger. Fruits are said to contain fibre, carbohydrates, amino acids and iron, and could be an excellent di-etary supplement in rural areas. (Advanced Journal of Food Science and Technol-ogy 2(3): 159-162, 2010)Distribution range: Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo, Mpumalanga, North West

Grewia robusta: Karoo Crossberry

Grewia robusta is an excellent shrub for arid regions of the country, being restricted to parts of the Karoo and Eastern Cape, occurring naturally in dry scrub, stony slopes and valley bushveld. Another pink flowering variety, the bright flow-ers of this 3m hardy shrub are sweetly scented. The trunk is multi-stemmed with a grey, sometimes spiny bark. Older stems take on a rounder shape. Leaves are fairly small, 113-25 x 10-20 mm in size, a shiny dark green above, and pale grey-green under surface, and lightly hairy. Leaves are typically toothed. Flow-ers are small and pink, occurring singly along the branches from August through to December. Fruits are round, reddish brown with 2 to 4 lobes. Flowers attract insects and birds, is drought and frost tolerant and makes an excellent screen in full sun to semi-shade areas. For those who have been trying unsuccessfully to grow G. occidentalis in frosty regions, this is a better option. G. occidentalis is frost hardy but only if sourced from a nursery that experiences the same temperatures. Buying from a nursery where the plant has not had a chance to harden is not recommended.

Grewias offer fruit and nectar to an array of indigenous wildlife

27272727

© J.M.Garg via Wikicommons

© Abu Shawka via Wikicommons

Grewia lasiocarpa; Forest Raisin / Elephant’s Ear / Lavender Star / bosrosyntjieEastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal. South African endemic

This scrambling shrub or small tree boasts the largest of the pink flowering species of Grewia. Popular as a bonsai species, it is known in the US as Lavender Star, perhaps a more descriptive common name than Forest Raisin, a common name that refers instead to the older fruits which eventually turn black while still on the plant, like small raisins, as well as to the species habitat preference. Description: a small tree with a tendency to scramble if given the support of neighbouring plants, the Forest Raisin can reach heights of up to 10 m in the wild, though within a garden setting grows to between 3 and 5 m. Foliage is evergreen and very at-tractive, with leaves larger and rounder than its more well-known sister, Grewia occidentalis, up to 150 mm in diameter with a conspicuous midrib and veins. Flowers too are considerably larger than the Crossberry. Leaves are a dull to dark green, rough to the touch, and covered in soft hairs below. Most of this genus have serrated or scalloped leaf edges, and in this species, they form dense foliage cover, making it an ideal screening shrub. Pink flowers are up to 17 mm in diameter, standing above the leaves on short stalks, usually in groups of 2 – 4. These cover the tree from in summer, the heaviest flush being from January

to March, though often in flower from November onwards. Red-brown fruits follow in autumn, 4-lobed and furry, quite large at 25 mm. these can remain for months attached to the branches, turning black as they age. Leaves resemble those of the small tree, Trimeria grandifolia (Wild Mulberry, or Big Ears, which gives an indication of the size and shape of the bright green leaves. These are rounder than the Forest Raisin, with 5 to 7 veins radiating outwards from the base. image below.These are rounder than thee Forest Raisin, with 5 to 7 veins radi-ating outwards from the base. A fast growing shrub it does occur in areas with high rainfall and the usual dry winter.

28

Want to give someone a living gift this Christmas? Why not make a mini garden in a pot? Here are some novel ideas...

Meadow Mix. For a soft and pretty picture use Scabiosa “Pink Mist”, Chlorophytum saundersae “Star-light” and Helichrysum petiolare. The combination of soft pink buttons with tumbling grey foliage backed with grassy green and white “Starlight” will delight. Dead head the Sca-biosa regularly to prolong the flowering display. A position in morning sun is best.

Potted InspirationText and images by Jenny Dean

Damp Cliff Dwellers. For plant lovers who like something a little dif-ferent. Impatiens hochstetteri (our indigenous “Bizzie Lizzie”) combined with Begonia dregei a little known plant with orange flowers. Add a Streptocarpus hybrid with large purple trumpets. A fairly shallow pot is best for this combination, keep it fairly damp and in the shade.

Mini Grassland. Aristida junciformis, Melinis nerviglumis and Bulbine abyssinica . Grassland in a pot – I love this idea for a position in full sun. A tough yet pretty combination that will require very little care apart from deadheading the Bulbine, which will reward you with a long flowering season.

Bulbine abyssinica © GK via Wikicommons

Wild Impatiens © JMK via Wikicommons

Christmas tree with a difference. Widdringtonia nodiflora is our indigenous conifer. Be the first with a truly Af-rican Christmas tree. This tree thrives in a pot and can be used as such every year. Simply re pot from time to time. It grows quickly so if you want a bigger tree just plant into a bigger pot. Widdringtonia have become rare in the wild and there is a project underway to replant them in the Cedarberg where too frequent fires have all, but wiped them out. This lovely upright conifer also occurs in the Drakensberg.

Prettiness in a pot. Pelargonium peltatum, the ivy leaf Pelargonium, comes in a variety of colour forms now. All are wonderful in a pot, tumbling over the sides with masses of bright flowers. All they want is a position in the sun and not too frequent watering. I often cut the blooms for posies.

Caring for pots is simple. Watering once a week should suffice and monthly feeding with a liquid preferably organic fertiliser will keep them all looking at their best. If you have a worm bin then use your worm “tea”. Remember that potting soil is merely a medium which holds the plant. It has an initial charge of fertiliser and some organic matter which is quickly depleted. A good potting medium must drain freely and the worst thing to use in a pot is garden soil which in time sets as hard as concrete.

32

With similar distribution ranges and growth requirements, the Silver Bush Everlasting / Hottentotskooigoed, and the Blue Felicia make beautiful garden partners. This

species of Everlasting grows in both dry, sunny areas and damp forest margins and sheltered kloofs, in the Eastern Cape, Western Cape and parts of KZN. The best and most widely grown of the vast South African family (245 species in the genus) it grows well throughout the country. Give it plenty of room to spread for, while a single plant covers a space of 0.5 x 1m, stems root easily where they touch the ground. Plant the

Soft shades of Silver & Blue Helichrysum petiolare and Felicia amelloides bring soft, subtle shades to the festive garden

32

Helichrysum in an area where it is easy to control, or in a pot tucked into the garden bed. Surround the container with the bright, glossy green leaves and pure blue daisy flowers of the Blue Felicia to create a soft combination that looks good year round. The dove grey leaves of the Helichrysum are swathed in creamy flowers from December through January, attracting beetles and butterflies.

Blue Felicia or Blue Marguerite, is also happy in full sun to partial shade, and, as with the Silver Everlasting, requires well- draining soils. Too much shade results in lank growth. The flowers, often seen year round, attract beetles, butterflies and bees to the garden, along with insect eating birds. Flowering takes place from September to March, and this simultaneous flush of daisies and creamy Everlasting buttons, creates a lovely silver and blue display through the Christmas season. While the distribution range of Felicia amelloides reaches into the frosty pockets, that of Helichrysum petiolare is restricted to frost free areas.

Maintenance: while many gardeners dead-head flowers of the Felicia frequently, to prolong flowering, allow a good number to set seed. Many will germinate into fresh new seedlings, and birds will use some of the soft seeds to line their nests. Stems may need a light trimming once flowering is over and wildlife interest in the plant has waned.

The centre section of the Helichrysum can get quite woody after a few years and will need trimming occasionally to refresh it. Trim long reaching stems if you do not want them to root.

333333

www.theindigenousgardener.co.za