DAP Report Applique Cluster Patna, Bihar By Pooja Khadkiwala ...

DAP report, Applique cluster, Patna, Bihar.

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DAP Report Applique Cluster Patna, Bihar

By Pooja Khadkiwala

Section 1 -‐ NAS Report


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About Design Clinic Scheme The Design Clinic Scheme is an initiative of the Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Scale enterprises and India’s premier Design institute namely National Institute of Design. Launched under the National Manufacturing Competitiveness Programme (NMCP) on February 17th, 2010 in New Delhi, the unique and ambitious design intervention scheme proposes to benefit 200 industry clusters to create a dynamic platform to provide expert solutions to real time Design problems, and in that add value to existing products. The Design Clinic Scheme scheduled for implementation through the Eleventh Plan, is structured to enhance Design awareness by exposing beneficiaries to the critical nuances of process, operation, manufacturing and business aspects of Design. All targeted to equip them with skills for improving, evaluating and analysing Design related interventions. The initiatives are expected to inculcate an innovative and futuristic approach towards Product Development, In the long term, the effort is expected to accrue cost effective solutions and equip with the ability to identify opportunities for enhancing existing product value. The skill level achieved by beneficiaries of the Design Clinic Scheme is anticipated to equip them with the capability of offering competitive and breakthrough solutions for the MSME sectors and in that switching the production mode from Original Equipment Manufacturing to Original Design Creation and hence Original Brand Manufacturing. The three Design Clinic Scheme models for facilitating Design learnings are: a) Design Sensitisation Seminars (200) b) Design Awareness Programmes i) Need Assessment Survey ii) Design Clinic Worshops (200) c) Design Projects (400, including 100 Student Design Projects) The total Design Clinic Scheme budget of Rs.73.58 crores, enjoys a Rs.49.08 assistance from the Government of India, to be released at various stages of progress. The balance to be contributed by the benefiting MSME units. The National Institute of Design is the nodal agency for the Design Clinic Scheme with its rich experience in Design training and Consultancy, NID being the synergizing catalyst between Design professionals and Design Clinic Scheme beneficiaries, with an administrative command of facilitating the Design Clinic Scheme schedule. The Design Clinic Scheme offers an enriching opportunity to the large sector of MSME (Associations and Units) as well as the Indian Design fraternity, including consulting firms, independent Designers, Design institutes as also Design students, to engage in assisting the country’s large and significant MSME sector.


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The design awareness programme, DAP, is focused to develop a holistic map of MSME clusters and units by exploring through industrial functions and activities. The design expert/s will generate design information about products, market scenario, technology, communication, research & development, and various industrial functions along with human factor study for ergonomics, safety, convenience, learning and skill up gradation through design research. Also the programme will provide design remedies for identified opportunities through design clinic workshop. The workshop will help participants to understand the holistic scenario of cluster and benefit them with the support of design expert/s, for design intervention in opportunity areas explored during the programme. The activities of design awareness programme are targeted around following areas of design information collection and remedial solutions.

• Design Expert will visit the identified /selected MSME units located in cluster region and interact with them to develop a design understanding of cluster. During the interaction design will provide inputs to MSMEs about product improvements, best practices and creative problem solving approach based on contextual scenario. In the process s/he will identify underlying opportunities with the help of explorative design research of clusters and participating units. This activity is an intensive design research for understanding the present scenario and opportunities for the design intervention. Also it will help improve MSME through Interactive learning, guidance and training during the visit.

• Interactive workshop of participants will develop a scenario where MSME members will learn

the creative problem solving techniques / design process to explore opportunities and identify breakthrough solution. The workshop will help generate on spot remedial solutions through interactive discussion and workshop activities. Design Clinic Workshop will be 1 to 5 days participative and interactive workshop for MSME participants, to discuss opportunity areas and identify problems within the clusters and units. In design clinic, solution to an existing design problem will be diagnosed and remedial steps be suggested by design expert/s.

Interactive design research activity is focused to provide design inputs on creative problem solving through an interactive dialog between design expert and MSME units. This activity will be a detailed research thorough visits and interaction with people within the MSME work environment. It will also help designer to generate information about the cluster units, their products, manufacturing processes, market scenario followed by identifying opportunity areas for design interventions. The research would be taken up by design expert/s for generation of design insights through various processes of exploration, interaction and data collection. Design expert/s will take part in developing macro perspective by studying cluster scenario and micro point of view by exploring through MSME units operations.


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About National Institute of Design The National Institute of Design (NID) is internationally acclaimed as one of the foremost multi-‐disciplinary institutions in the field of design education and research. The Business Week, USA has listed NID as one of the top 25 European & Asian programmes in the world. The institute functions as an autonomous body under the department of Industrial Policy & Promotion, Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India. NID is recognised by the Dept. of Scientific & Industrial Research (DSIR) under Ministry of Science & Technology, Government of India, as a scientific and industrial design research organisation. NID has been a pioneer in industrial design education after Bauhaus and Ulm in Germany and is known for its pursuit of design excellence to make Designed in India, Made for the World a reality. NID’s graduates have made a mark in key sectors of commerce, industry and social development by taking role of catalysts and through thought leadership.


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About Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan was established in 1956 by the Department of Industries, Government of Bihar in honour of Lt. Shri Upendra Maharathi who played a revolutionary role in crafts sector of Bihar. He painstakingly collected and preserved some of the most exquisite and representative pieces of Bihar’s handicrafts along with craft documentation processes leaving his creative imprint on them. Spread in about six-‐acre land, the institute is well planned in terms of physical infrastructure and operations activities. There is workshops, studios, museum, library, etc. in the campus itself. The institute understands the needs, strengths and weaknesses of crafts sector in Bihar and so performs various activities to vitalize and modernize the decaying traditional crafts and art forms of Bihar. Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan provides designs and samples to artisans to ensure production based on traditional art forms and crafts. Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan also imparts training with support of National Institute of Design to budding artisans under the guidance of master craftsman for expertizing and upgrading their skills with a Global – Local approach. The master craftsman undertakes research in new techniques and improves methods of production. The museum of the institute reminds of glorious past of handicrafts in Bihar. The handicrafts in the museum represents the popular taste and artistic sense nurtured by age old tradition that lights up with beauty and a singular novelty of freshness. Weaving, Dyeing & Printing, Block Making, Carpentry, Clay moulding, Pottery, Lacquer, Toy, Bell Metal, Bamboo, Photography, Leather, Embroidery, Draftsman, Paper Mache and Tikuli art etc. are the various departments and facilities of the institute. Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan aims to preserve, research and globally promote the various forms of handicrafts in Bihar. Besides training programmes the institute also organizes various other activities like Handicraft week, workshops and award functions to reward the artisans and promote the craft sector. Vision & Mission Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan is aimed to preserve, research and promote the various forms of Bihari handicrafts. The institute is continuously working on growth and development of crafts sector and craftsmen in an integrated manner by generating requisite knowledge, training programme and workshops for upgradation of relevant skills.

− The Institute conducts product development, research and training activities and also attempts to safeguard the languishing crafts of the state.

− Training program of six months duration in 10 various crafts is organized through the skilled craftsmen working in the Institute.

− Handicraft week is organized every year. − An annual award for Best Craftsmen of the state is organized every year. − Hostel facilities are available for the trainees during the course.


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− Institute also organizes Craft Bazar every year for the promotion of crafts. − All India Handicraft workshops being organized every year. − Institute being added on to the itinerary of tourist tour of Patna. − Renovation of Institute premises all round. − Construction of Patna Hat on the pattern of Delhi Hat is in ongoing process.

Objectives

− Provide an adequate platform to the artisans. − Promote the varieties of handicraft works. − Strengthen handicrafts, handloom and village cottage industries. − Establish art and craft work in the National and Global market. − Create a development fund for weavers and artisans. − Protect and develop the languishing Art forms. − Create job-‐opportunities in deep remote areas. − Implement Capacity-‐building programs for rural artisans. − Trust building among the weavers and artisans. − Implement welfare schemes


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About Patna, Bihar Bihar, which lies between the states of West Bengal and UP, is the 12th largest state when it comes to size. It is also a state that has got the highest number of population, and 3rd in India. Bihar is also known for the average age of people who are below 25. It accounts for 58% in the state, and also has the biggest number of proportion in India. Bihar's capital Patna is known for its early civilization and is also considered to be prime center in taking education to the next level during those times. People from all over the world came to Patna for their International Studies. Bihar-‐Patna city map gives a view of the Major Roads, Railways, Water Bodies, Hotels, Hospitals, Cinema Theaters, Religious Place, Education Centers, and Important Landmarks. The view of the Ganges River that separates Bihar into two, runs from west to east, gives us a clear picture of the Son River, and Gandak River dividing the state. Patna showcases many industries that give employment to 36 lakhs people in Patna. Agriculture also plays a vital role in providing to the need of the day-‐to-‐day Patna people. Road, Rail and Air Transportation very well link Patna to other parts of the country, and the Patna Map gives a complete visual on the Railway Lines. National Highways 30, 31, 98 and 22 plays a major role in providing transportation in and out of Patna. The National Highway 31 passes through major districts and also lies in the midst of the Railway Lines from Eastern Railways. Patna has got many tourist locations as seen on the map. As described above, tourists are still seeking Nalanda University for their education. Apart from that, there are many other notable places to visit, like the Gandhi Sangrahalaya, Museums in Jalan, Golghar, Sher Shah Suri Masjid, Srikrishna Science Center etc. All these notable tourist places can be found in the district view of the map. Even after such major developments in Bihar, it still lags in human and economic developments, which the state is trying to constantly grow. Bihar's election plays an important role in the assembly elections. Bihar is also noted in India for its fastest growing economy when compared to Delhi and Pondicherry, which are also known for their growth. Patna is the largest city in the Indian state of Bihar. It also happens to be among the most ancient cities in the world. Patna is the capital of Bihar and is situated on the banks of the Ganga River. The city was originally known as Pataliputra. It was known as the seat of learning during the Mauryan rule. Patna over the years has come up as an important trade center in the country. In the year 2009, it ranked as the second best place in India for starting a business by the World Bank. Patna is also a very famous pilgrimage center in India. It has some of the most sough after Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain pilgrim centers like; Bodhgaya, Rajgir, Nalanda, Vaishali and Pawapuri. Patna once called Pataliputra, is among the world's oldest capital cities with unbroken history of many centuries as imperial metropolis. A very fertile arched stretch of land along the bank of the Ganga. The history and heritage of modern day Patna go back well over two millennia. Like Delhi, Patna too had been the regal seat of governance for successive kingdoms since ancient times. And to this day, it is the capital city of the state. As each ruler ascended in power and established dynastic glory, he gave his capital a new name. Thus, the ancient Kusumpura metamorphosed through Pushpapura, Pataliputra, Azeemabad and now into Patna, a continuous history ranging from 6th century BC to present times -‐ a record claimed by few cities in the world. It was Ajatshatru the Magadha king who first built a small fort in Pataligram on the bank of the Ganga in 6th century BC, which later blossomed into the ancient glory still to be seen in the neighboring archaeological sites at Kumrahar. Bhiknapahari, Agamkuan, Bulandi Bagh and Kankar Bagh. Pataliputra dominated the political fortunes of the whole of north India between 6th century BC and 5th century AD, a fact


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established by archaeological excavations. After a temporary eclipse, in 16th century, Sher Shah Suri returned the city to its former glory and established the present Patna. After the decline of the Mughals, the British too found Patna a convenient regional capital and built a modern extension to this ancient city and called it Bankipore. It was in Gandhi Maidan in this area, that Mahatma Gandhi held his prayer meetings. Sights Golghar: Alarmed by the famine of 1770, captain John Garstin built this huge granary for the British army in 1786. The massive structure is 29 m high and the walls are 3.6 m wide at the base. The winding stairway around this monument offers a brilliant panoramic view of the city and the Ganga flowing by. Martyr's Memorial: A memorial to seven freedom fighters who sacrificed their lives in the Quit India Movement of August 1942, the Martyr's Memorial is a modern sculpture facing the Secretariat, where they were shot in their attempt to host the national flag. Har Mandir Takht: Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Guru of the Sikhs, was born in 1660 in Patna. The Har Mandir Takht, one of the four sacred shrines of the Sikhs, stands at this holy site. The original temple was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, and contains belongings of the Guru and Sikh holy texts. Patna Museum: The Patna Museum houses a First World War cannon, metal and stone sculptures of the Mauryan and Gupta periods, Buddhist sculptures and quaint terracotta figures. A 16 m long fossilised tree is one of its special features.


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Pathar ki Masjid: Adjacent to Har Mandir Sahib, on the bank of the Ganga, is this beautiful mosque built by Parwez Shah, son of Jehangir, when he was the governor of Bihar. It is also called Saif Khan's mosque, Chimmi Ghat mosque and Sangi Masjid. Sher Shah Suri Masjid: Sher Shah Suri built this mosque in 1545 to commemorate his reign. Built in the Afghan architectural style, it is one of the many beautiful mosques in Bihar, and one of the impressive landmarks of Patna. Khuda Baksh Oriental Library: Founded in 1900, a magnificent one man collection of rare Arabic and Persian manuscripts, Rajput and Mughal paintings, oddities like the Koran inscribed in a book only 25mm wide and an assortment of old and new books from the University of Cordoba, Spain. It is one of the national libraries in India. The library also contains the only books to survive the sacking of the Moorish University of Cordoba in Spain. Jalan Museum: Built on the foundations of Sher Shah's fort, Qila House contains an impressive private collection of antiques, including a dinner service that once belonged to George III, Marie Antoinette's Sevres porcelain, Napoleon's four-‐poster bed, Chinese jade and Mughal silver filigree,.It is a private collection, and prior permission is required for a visit. Sadaqat Ashram: The Ashram is the headquarters of Bihar Vidyapeeth, a national university. India's first president, Dr. Rajendra Prasad lived here after his retirement and there is a small museum here showcasing his personal belongings. Agam Kuan: Agam Kuan (Unfathomable well) is one of the most important early historic archeological remains in Patna. It is situated just close to Gulzarbagh railway Station, which is proposed to be associated with the Mauryan Emperor Ashok. Gandhi Setu: Asia’s longest Roadway Bridge


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Biological Park: Also known as Sanjay Gandhi Biological Park Modern Planetarium: Indira Gandhi Science Complex, is one of the must visiting places in Patna. This is among few Planetarium's (Taramandal) in India.


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Demographics

• Population 5,772,804 (2010[update]) • Literacy63.82% • Male 73.81% • Female 52.17%


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Cluster Area, Kurji, Patna, Bihar.

KURJI


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About Applique An appliqué refers to a needlework technique in which patterns or representational scenes are created by the attachment of smaller pieces of fabric to a larger piece of contrasting colour or texture. It is particularly suitable for work, which is to be seen from a distance, such as in banner making. APPLIQUE WORK OF BIHAR Appliquor Katwa work of Bihar applique is done in two ways.

1. Different patterns may be cut into a single piece of material, which is to be attached to the ground material. This is known as Khatwa and is similar to fretwork.

2. In the other style motifs are cut out individually and then attached to the ground material in different compositions. A mixture of different textured fabrics enhances the richness of the design and produces a chiaroscuro effect of light and shade.

As in the rest of India this applique is used mostly for tents, shamianas and kanats, which call for a large gathering of people. The tradition started in the days when journeys were long and time consuming. Cities of tents grew up every evening in different places when a King or nobleman embarked on a journey. The tents were of different sizes and served as bedrooms, reception rooms, offices etc. An army on the move required even more accommodation and so the making and decoration of tents became an art in itself. So that traditional designs may not be lost they are collected on a master chart called awalkhana, which each following generation can copy and, perhaps, improve upon. There was no evidence of these traditions at the Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan, though some traditional examples were on display in the museum. The caretakers of the museum also explained how this form of embroidery has evolved from the practice of making tents and shamianas.


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Process


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Patterns drawn on tracing paper outlined with tiny needle pricks

The tracing is placed on the fabric for printing of pattern


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The tracing properly flattened out on the fabric for straight printing

A liquid mixture of kerosene and zinc powder is prepared

The liquid mixture is then rubbed all over the fabric with uniform pressure. In this way the zinc powder in the mixture penetrates through the needle pricks in the tracing to get the imprint of the pattern on the fabric. The kerosene eventually evaporates.


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The pattern is then cut out and set on the base fabric. The pattern can be a single piece or many pieces put together on the base fabric. The top fabric is then painstakingly stitched onto the base fabric creating a negative positive pattern.


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Cluster Level Report


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The piece of work that she won a state award

UNIT 1 Shrimati Sushila devi Age : 56 Golghar park road State award winner in applique

− 26 years of experience. − 5 children. 3 daughters & 2 sons − All 3 daughters all are involved in doing applique − She runs a small enterprise from home. Since she has been working on this for 26 yrs

she has a number of patterns ready and traced out, with the help of her daughter comes up with new patterns as well.

− The patterns are mainly for bed sheets or cushion covers and pillows, she does not do applique on garments.

− The patterns are then traces onto fabrics bought by her and given to women, who regularly work with her, to take to make.

− The women either come from in and around the area or from small villages that are sometimes a day’s travel away.

− She gives the women 300/-‐ approx. for doing applique on a double bed sheet and she herself sells it for 1500/-‐ approx.

− She participates in many exhibitions including the Trade fair that happens in New Delhi. A letter for participation by the state usually notifies her for these exhibitions.

− She is part of the GURU-‐SHISHYA program wherein she becomes the teacher for a number of students for 6 months. The GURU gets sum 10000/-‐ per month and the SHISHYA a stipend of 2000/-‐ per month for participation.

Observation & Opportunities − She had a lot of stock of bed sheets and cushion covers that were stored away in

trunks in her house; this stock is taken out whenever there is an exhibition. This stock gets spoiled sometimes due to moisture or rust. Why does she need to wait for an exhibition for sale? The institute through its contacts can help them supply it to stores or tie up with an NGO that can sell these pieces further to stores. This will allow bulk orders and the women working with her will have a continuous flow of work and income.


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UNIT 2 Shrimati Neetu Sharma 31 Hamidpur kurji

− She is Sushila devi’s daughter and works closely with her on preparing pieces. − She has a good rapport with the local women and closely works with Upendra

Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan for getting women to participate in workshops and training.

− At this point she is unable to completely immerse herself in this work as she has 3 young children and their responsibility

− She has roped in most of her relatives, sister-‐in-‐laws etc. for this work − She takes individual orders for kurti’s from women in and around her area. She also

makes TV covers and fridge covers, that are usually bought from local shops and then the addition of applique is made

− She does manage to participate in local exhibitions in Patna, as well as nearby areas like Ranchi and Jhansi

Observation & Opportunities − She has good local contacts and women working with her respect her. She also

encourages young girls to pick up this skill since they are sitting home idol. People like her with a certain confidence should be rolled in to set up small enterprises. They should be guided and groomed for approaching store for sale as well finding out new sales channels

An applique bed sheet made by her, spread out in her house, while her children sit on the bed and study.


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UNIT 3 Shrimati Archana Devi Age: 28 Hamidpur kurji patna

− Has 2 young children − Gets work for applique from her sister-‐in-‐law Neetu Sharma − Does individual local order for kurtis for wedding, sells an unstitched

kurta piece for 500/-‐ approx. − Accompanies her sister-‐in-‐law Neetu Sharma for local exhibitions

Observations & Opportunities − Archana pursues this work because it is a good option to work from

home and does not like to sit idle. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 4 Shrimati Anju Sharma Age: 31 Hamidpur Kurji patna

− Elder sister-‐in-‐law of Neetu Sharma − Has 3 young children − A polite but enthusiastic women, had many things like quilts and embroidery

on pillow covers, made by her, in her home Observations & Opportunities

− Anju Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and does not like to sit idle. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 5 Sisters Indu Kumari, age 22 and Sushma devi, age 26

− Indu Kumari recently completed her graduation but has been working on applique for the past 5-‐6 years

− She did the 6month course at Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan under Prabha Madam.

− Indu is not married − Sushma devi, her sister is married and works alongside her on applique

Observations & Opportunities − Since Indu is unmarried she has less household responsibilities. She is also

educated but cannot really pursue a job without adding to her qualification. Unmarried girls should be especially roped in to rigorously pursue this skill; they are smart street-‐smart girls and with a little grooming can become front-‐runners of enterprises. This will allow them to establish a regular source of income before they get married which will allow them to have financial independence as well.


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UNIT 4 Geeta Devi Age: 45 Hamidpur Kurji patna

− She has recently shifted to Patna, permanently, mainly for her son’s medical treatment

− She was working with an NGO in her village for awhile. Observations & Opportunities

− Geeta Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and through this she can take care of her son as well as earn some money. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 4 Kavita Devi Age: 30 Hamidpur Kurji patna

− She has been working on and off with applique, though she knows the skill she was not working on any piece at that time

− There was a sewing machine in her house and she stitches frocks with various design, mainly for her young daughter though.

Observations & Opportunities

− Kavita Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and in turn make some money Her sewing skills can come in very handy for development of new product line as well as for finishing.


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UNIT 4 Sandhya Devi Age: 26 Hamidpur Kurji Patna

− She is Kavita Devi’s sister and recently shifted to Patna after marriage − She was very enthusiastic about participating in the workshop to be

conducted later Observations & Opportunities

− Sandhya Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and in turn make some money

− Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 9 Shrimati Poonam Devi Age: 36 Hamidpur Kurji patna

− She got married very early and has 2 grown up sons between the age of 15-‐20 − At present she was not working on any piece but in the past she has worked

on many applique bed sheets, cushion covers etc. Observations & Opportunities

− Poonam Devi is such a point in life that she doesn’t really have day to day responsibility of children She could be one of the experienced people within an enterprise who could look at day to day functioning and get groomed for quality check etc.


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UNIT 10 Shrimati Manju Devi Age: 36 Hamidpur Kurji patna

− She is also one of the older experienced people − She has many examples of her work, but most of tem were stored away in

overhead lofts Observations & Opportunities

− Manju Devi is such a point in life that she doesn’t really have day to day responsibility of children She could be one of the experienced people within an enterprise who could look at day-‐to-‐day functioning and get groomed for quality check etc.


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UNIT 11 Shrimati Sarita Devi Age: 33 Hamidpur Kurji Patna

− She is Sushila Devi’s daughter and has been working on applique since childhood

− She has 3 young children the eldest one being 14, she can maybe now get involved in this work more


− Sarita Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and in turn make some money Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 12 Kumri Chandni Age 24 Hamidpur Kurji Patna

− She is Prabha Madam, the teacher at the institute, her daughter − She recently completed her graduation − She did the 6month course at Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan under Prabha

Madam. − Chandni is not married

Observations & Opportunities − Since Chandni is unmarried she has less household responsibilities. She is also



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It was interesting to see she was working on a patterned checks fabric for applique

UNIT 13 Baby Devi Age: 28 Hamidpur Kurji Patna

− She does applique work on a regular basis, whether for Sushila Devi or her own work


− Baby Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and does not like to sit idle. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 14 Sandhya Devi Age: 26 Hamidpur Kurji Patna


Observations & Opportunities − Shobha Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from

home and does not like to sit idle. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 15 Kumri Preeti Age 19 Hamidpur Kurji Patna

− She recently completed her graduation − She did the 6month course at Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan under Prabha

Madam. − Preeti is not married

Observations & Opportunities − Since Chandni is unmarried she has less household responsibilities. She is also



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UNIT 16 Kumri Sandeepa Age 25 Hamidpur Kurji Patna

− She recently completed her graduation − She did the 6month course at Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan under Prabha

Madam. − Sandeepa is not married − Her mother did a lot of Rampuri applique that were sent for export, mostly white

on white. She stopped doing that work as her eyes started going weak. Observations & Opportunities

− Since Chandni is unmarried she has less household responsibilities. She is also educated but cannot really pursue a job without adding to her qualification. Unmarried girls should be especially roped in to rigorously pursue this skill; they are smart street-‐smart girls and with a little grooming can become front-‐runners of enterprises. This will allow them to establish a regular source of income before they get married which will allow them to have financial independence as well. Her sewing skills can come in very handy for development of new product line as well as for finishing.


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UNIT 17 Sushma Devi Age: 23 Hamidpur Kurji Patna


− Her husband was present when we visited her home and he wanted to know if the workshop will get them any money.

− She was working on a bedsheet that had ‘INDIAN RAILWAY’ printed on it, this her husband had got from his work.


− Sushma Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and does not like to sit idle. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 18 Ruby Devi Age: 24 Hamidpur Kurji Patna



− Ruby Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and does not like to sit idle. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 19 Sangeeta Devi Age: 24 Golghar road Patna

− She does applique work on a regular basis, with Sushila Devi − Her mother-‐in-‐law present there during our visit was asking if the subsequent

workshop would bring in any money, she said we are very poor and the govt. should do something to help us earn a living through this.


− Sangeeta Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and does not like to sit idle. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’


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UNIT 20 Sangeeta Devi Age: 24 Golghar road Patna

− She does applique work on a regular basis, with Sushila Devi − She has 2 young children and mostly works after finishing all the household

work and taking care of the children Observations & Opportunities

− Sangeeta Devi pursues this work because it is a good option to work from home and does not like to sit idle. Such enterprising women should be given the opportunity to really build on their skill and move beyond ‘GHAR KA KAAM’

OPPORTUNITY MAPING AT CLUSTER LEVEL

− Applique is a very labour intensive and time consuming skill, proper costing for the effort is required.

− To justify the amount of time spent better materials, trendy colour combinations and products should be made. Value adding is critical and perception of product needs to be changed.

− The younger, unmarried women need to be encouraged to go to exhibitions and understand the business perspective. Many of them are graduates and can be trained to be the face of the business.

− The existing entrepreneurs like Sushila Devi need more to be motivated and have to be encouraged to continuously evolve products and patterns.


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The class at Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan, with their teacher Prabha maam.

Case study Group: Students at Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Background:

• The group consists of girls from in and around Patna. • They between the ages of 19 to 30. • 1-‐2% of them are married. • Most girls have completed their graduation or are pursuing it. • They came to know about the institute most through word of mouth or by ads

put in the newspaper by the institute. • They have one teacher, Ms. Prabha, who teaches them everything.

The course: • The course at the institute is of 6 months duration and the students get a

stipend of 500/-‐ per month • To begin with they are given training in basic stitching before moving on

specifically to applique • They are taught a variety of embroidery the techniques like Kaseeda and Sujni as

well, besides applique. • The samples they make during the course are retained by the institute and sold

at exhibitions put up by the govt. • At the end of the course they have a practical exam, which is a long, where they

have make a piece with embroidery. They also have to take a written exam where they are asked questions about the skill and their thoughts on it.


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Observations: • They hope to earn a living through this skill and most of them are vary of sitting

at home jobless. • Though the stipend amount is not enough, to even pay for their travel

sometimes, they still enthusiastically pursue the course. • Though they are trained in the skill they are given no inputs, through the course,

as to how they can take this forward and practice the skill, as per the exam paper there is no such questioning.

• The students have no share in the profit earned by the sale of the samples they prepare during the course.

• The kinds of samples they prepare during the course are very outdated. • There is a designer employed at the institute but he is very old and cannot help

much in uplifting the look of the products. Suggestions:

• Besides the permanent faculty, every month, during the course of 6 months, a guest faculty should be called. These people have to come from varied backgrounds so the students get a holistic perspective through these experts:

− People who run NGO’s or Women Self Help Groups, which employ women so that the students can know about the opportunities out there.

− A designer from a reputed institute with experience who can give inputs on a number of things like:

o Familiarizing them with latest trends for which a short visit to the nearby mall i.e. a 5 min walk away from the institute can be organized. While browsing through the shops the designer could point out things that can help them innovate. This method could be very convincing as it will be much easier for the students to relate as the examples are taken from their environment. Retail stores in P&M mall include: Wills Lifestyle, Big Baazar, Sepia and many retail stores by the future group.

P&M mall Patliputra colony, Patna, Bihar


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o For further exposure, a visit to stores like Fabindia, which is again just a 15 min auto ride from the institute should be organized. Here they can show examples of good fabric, variety of fabric and a different sort of color tone that is more on the sober sophisticated side. In the home products section they can exposed to a variety of product range, which they build on increase the spread of product range.

o Some basic inputs on geometry that will help them move away from regular flower and animal motifs. Also how they can use the almost quirky looking animal motifs they come up with for the bed sheets.


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Design Audit Report


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1. Product design, redesign and product development

What is?

• The present product range consists of bed sheets with matching pillow covers, cushion covers, table covers and TV & fridge covers (applique is added to ready made covers)

• The applique is supported by surface embroidery like sujni, it is mainly used to outline the applique.

• The patterns are derived from random sources like children’s books and magazines. The senior artisans practicing applique have specific set of designs that they make permutations of on the basis of colour combinations or placement within a piece.

• There is no traditional source to the iconography; it’s a diluted source of influences from other states and the artisan’s understanding.

• The kind of fabric mainly used is cotton in a thicker weave. • The products are haphazard and none seem to belong to one range. • Colour options within one pattern is missing, there is lack of depth in the variety. • Limited variety of materials used.

What can be done? • Deriving patterns and colour combinations • Contemporizing the patterns and icons used • Understanding of colour and combinations, very random right now • Their understanding of sewing can be used to widen product range • Develop understanding of creating ranges • Material understanding, use of print

2. Scope for research and development direction for future initiative

What is?

• Lack of exposure in terms of colours, patterns and product line • Lack of avenues of sales • Very time consuming work, so they make a shift to sewing garments on mechanical

sewing machines. What can be done?

• Methods of how they continuously keep exploring new things, going to exhibitions, looking at magazines and what to derive from them

• Method to identify new avenues for sales like retailing from stores, participating in exhibitions.

• Research ways in which they can work in a team and make things faster, productive and lucrative ways so that they do not give up the skill.

• Team work, work as a consolidated company 3. Scope for design collaborations

What is? • The artisans are scattered and do haphazard work. • No continuous work, very limited income

What can be done? • Need to make it a job so that they get proper monthly income • Supply to store, govt should tie up with stores


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• Every 6 months workshops should be conducted on design, designers related to textile as well as graphics should be invite

• A team comprising of the artisans and people from the institute should be formed to make sure the workshop learning’s are applied, they have to assess the results and make an agenda as to what future workshops can be about

• Keep a design consultant that brings in new ideas at a holistic level

4. Scope for operations and process innovation from design perspective

What is? • Labor intensive work • Patterns on tracing just dumped in the

house • Lack of space to do large pieces like

curtains • Use of kerosene for printing of pattern

What can be done? • Larger pieces can be sewed on by

machine, layers can be created, smaller pieces can be hand stitched • Document patterns properly, make a library for references • Institute premises opened up to artisans to work • Explore other ways of printing, less flammable toxic method

5. Details of market and competition study for design advantage and distinction

What is? • Applique is not distinct to Bihar like Madhubani • There is competition from other states like Rajasthan and Orissa where it is a distinct

craft • Export market • Products are stored away in cartons in the wait for an exhibition; many of them are old

& sometimes damaged. What can be done?

• Create differentiation through defining patterns and derive inspiration from traditional iconography of other crafts of Bihar (E.g. Madhubani or dhokra)

• Make it a saleable product through aggressive promotion and good prices. • Don’t sell it as a craft product but a home décor contemporary product • Avoid collection of stock and create proper archives to preserve the good examples • Make women understand the tradition, make them visit the museum


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• Study traditional examples and derive inspiration from that. In the below example from the museum, even the outlining is done through applique, need to bring in this king of fine work.

6. Study for the need of training and skill up-‐gradation

What can be done? • Detailing • Maintaining the quality of the product, keep it clean • How to talk about their product and feeling of ownership

7. Description of ergonomic and environment factors in MSME

What is? • They work from home in their free time • They are comfortable since they are at home but cannot do work at stretch • Do work in parts as and when they get time • Space constraints

What can be done? • Since most of them live walking distance from the institute a space should be allotted

to them • Make it feel like a job so that they can set a routine • Set centers within the areas they live in, rent out a single hall so the artisans can collect

there to work • The timing can be 2-‐5 hours but at least there will be uninterrupted work

8. Packaging and logistic related design opportunities • The concept of packaging does not exist

What can be? • With some basic directions from a designer, packaging for the product can be created

with the main aim of leaving an impact and adding recall value. 9. Infrastructure setup

What is? • They don’t require infrastructure in terms of machinery, the skill involved is basic

handwork • No area within institute to show case work • No system for acquiring work

What can be done? • In the institute students work should be displayed • They work from home but a designated area within the institute should be provided • Propagate their work in the local market, approach stores


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• Set up stalls in local melas e.g. Gandhi maidan Disneyland mela

SCOPE FOR DESIGN INTERVENTION

1. Product level − Inputs on createing new patterns − Build on the recent workshop based on colour and form (add images of e.g. work) − Exploring materials, material understanding − Translate the skills into new product categories

2. System level − Creating job opportunities after training, self employment − Creating groups of women who can pursue the business − Making leaders from within the groups

3. Short Term solutions − Identifying small organizations / NGO’s that are already doing this work and help get

employment for the women. − Exploring new products within the skill of appliqué, trying small products that will sell more

and are less time consuming & labour intensive. − Take people like Neetu Sharma and students of the institute to stores, expose them to the

existing market, make them understand and derive inspiration

4. Long Term solutions − Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan should create a small enterprise where new and

innovative products are made on regular basis − A small portion of the space can be converted into a workshop where applique products are

made and artisans are employed on a monthly basis. − Identify standard large exhibitions as well as stores where these products can be supplied.

Identify clients that will require regular supply of products, consider export houses & large corporates as clients.

− Subsequently have a day care center for children of the artisans as most of them are women and they need to be carefree about their household responsibilities to do quality work.

− Organizing workshops on different subjects, they need to look beyond just doing applique. They need to understand quality, costing and even entrepreneurship and many other influencing factors for the making and profiting from a product.

DESIGN PROJECT OPPORTUNITIES To develop a product range that is in tune with trends and has wider application simultaneously training them for future development To create lucrative business opportunities through tie-‐ups with stores, thorough research of market and plausible sales channels To develop self help groups with strong leaders who can run it as a company and make it a job opportunity


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CONCLUSION Patna was a surprise as a city; all the preconceived notions came crashing down the minute I steeped into the taxi. The local people there are great; mostly polite with a very interesting twist to the way they speak Hindi. If you let go of your inhibitions then it’s an easy place to get around in. The cluster area Kurji was like a village with narrow lanes and small houses that have organically grown in height to make space for growing families. Most women in the cluster were extremely poor but they were more than happy to serve tea and snacks. Their main concerns were being able to earn some money through this skill. Whenever I met up with a family member they always had questions whether my visit would in any way subsequently lead to them being able to earn any money. The suggestions in this report if considered, will hopefully help in elevating their plight. Cluster area, KURJI

Section 2-‐ 5Day Workshop Report

26th-‐30th November

Inauguration

Day 1 Exercise of day: To understand geometric patterns and implement it on a garment.

1. The participants, working in groups of 2, were asked to use square, circle and triangle shapes to create patterns. These patterns had to be first drawn out on paper through their own imagination. Later some reference patterns were shown to help them understand possibilities.

2. Next they were asked to translate these patterns onto a t-‐shirt. T-‐shirts were chosen as the garment because most of these women work on very large pieces like bed sheets, this would help them explore a different scale for application of applique.

3. They set the shapes cut in newspaper, on the t-‐shirt in various patterns. I then discussed with each group how certain patterns are working and what improvements can be made.

4. Next they moved on to choosing colours for their patterns and then went to execute the applique.

Learning: This exercise got them into a thinking mode, how they can use simple shapes to create exciting patterns and how they can apply their skill to contemporary products. FEW EXAMPLES OF THE FINAL PRODUCTS

Day 2 Exercise of the day: To explore making accessories with use of applique

1. The participants were asked to list down 5 products each, besides bed sheets, pillow covers, tablecloth and tv covers, that can be made using applique.

2. The most common category that emerged was jewellery and some personal accessories like clips etc.

3. They were then asked to quickly sketch out the idea and then we discussed the

feasibility and aesthetics of each idea and chose the most appropriate from them.

4. They then spent the day executing these ideas:

EXAMPLES OF SOME OF THE EXPLORATIONS

Learning: This was meant to be a thought provoking exercise, the results may not have been most viable but it was important for them to understand how to explore different ideas. This was a trying exercise for them as they just could not imagine applique at that scale but the results were interesting. This exercise was kept at a first prototype stage as it was meant to be more explorative. The participant worked in groups of 3 to 4 and today they were mixed in terms of age and familiarity. All relatives and friends were separated and asked to work with new people. They were very uncomfortable with this change but it was interesting for me to observe and for them to figure it out amongst themselves. Day 3 – Day 4 – Day 5 Exercise: To make a variety of commercially viable, contemporary products.

1. The participants were divided in 5 groups of 4 to 6 members each. They were each given a product category. The product categories were:

a) Laptop sleeves b) Stuff toys c) Table matts & trivets d) Clutches & bags e) Knick-‐knack pouches

2. Each group were then explained what these products are in terms of usability and

also shown some reference pictures where required. They were very excited about making these very unique new products and the discussion brought out their level of awareness and exposure.

3. Next they were asked to design and sketch out each of the product ideas and

discuss with me. There was a lot of to & fro of ideas here, many of the ideas were rejected and redone. Though they would be almost dejected on the rejection of an idea their motivation and enthusiasm was always top level and they would soon come back with more ideas & explorations.

4. After finalizing on ideas, they had to prepare a to scale pattern of the product. Further refinements were done on this pattern before getting to the actual material.

5. They then went on to execute the final product.

Learning: there was immense learning through this exercise. It gave them input on a diverse topics like

a) Quality & finishing – understand the importance of using matching thread, maintaining straight lines and inner finishing as critical as outer finishing.

b) Colour and print – the fabrics chosen were mostly prints as this would help them understand the possibilities within material. They have a tendency to fill the whole piece with applique, now they just had to add appliques as the highlighting factor. This added value and was less labour intensive.

c) Quick working – they were asked to use the sewing machine as much as possible and only do the applique by hand. This gave them perspective on how to work smartly.

d) Teamwork – these women mostly work solo from their homes, now

working in groups as big as 6 was a big adjustment and learning for them. They learnt not only how to express and share ideas but also accept and translate each other’s ideas

GROUPS WITH THE FINAL PRODUCTS THEY DESIGNED AND MADE Group 1 – Laptop Sleeve

Group 2 – Stuff toys

Group 3 – table matts & trivet

Group 3 – Clutches and bags

Group 4 – Knick knack pouches

DAP Report Applique Cluster Patna, Bihar By Pooja Khadkiwala ...

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