Preventive conservation for your family treasures.

Melissa Bechhoefer | Registrar

Jen Dibbern | Serials Manager

The act of taking precautionary measures to slow object deterioration caused by inherent aging, in an effort to provide long term stability.

It is first and foremost proactive rather than being just reactive.

1. Physical forces

2. Thieves and vandals

3. Dissociation

4. Fire

5. Water

6. Pests

7. Pollutants

8. Light

9. Incorrect temperature

10. Incorrect relative humidity

So, how do we fight against powers that weaken and destroy our family treasures???

1. Physical Forces

Impact and Shock (bumping, dropping, etc.)

Vibration

2. Thieves and vandals

The loss of family history, ownership and use of objects, or associated stories can make an item quickly go from priceless…to worthless!

Record all known information about an object in a place where it will be saved and stay with the object.

Keep all records, receipts, photos, etc. that relate to the objects and the people who owned or used them.

Flames, smoke, and fire extinguishingmethods (chemical, water) all causedamage to most objects

Some objects have inherent vice, such as nitrate film and negatives Nitrate is highly combustible .

▪ Burning or deteriorating nitrate film or negatives releases toxic nitric acid.▪ Nitrate film in advanced deterioration will show bubbling, a honey-like goo, or

rust colored powder.

Store objects away from ignition sources: overloaded electrical outlets, household chemicals, open flames, etc.

It is still better to extinguish flames and deal with the damage caused by the extinguisher, than to let it burn!

Good storage location is the easiest way to avoid water damage.

Avoid attics or basements where floods are most likely.

Avoid areas under pipes or near windows.

Keep objects at least 6 inches off the floor.

Make sure any floor drains are working.

Keep in mind that water being present can also affect relative humidity (still to come…).

If objects do get wet, contact a professional conservator right away – different types of objects require different treatments and “drying things out” isn’t always best!

Numerous types of bugs found in the home can damage objects.

Carpet Beetles

Roaches

Clothes Moths

Mice

Silverfish

Book Lice

Very small silvery white or yellow moths (1/3 inch).

Case-making – create small “cocoons” on wool or other animal-based fabrics, often the same color as the fabric itself.

Webbing – leave small webs on materials.

Along with moths in the air, you may find small inch-worm-like larva (these are the guys that cause all the damage).

Infested objects may also show signs of small white, brown or black balls – these are frasse (a fancy technical term for bug poop) or eggs.

Very small black or brown beetles, often with spots or small patterns on their backs.

Larva, which again do the damage, are small brown and “hairy”.

On infested objects you may see cast skins, which look like little fur coats that the larva have shed.

Though technically not the same family, similar to drugstore and tobacco beetles.

Most commonly found in cool, damp places such as basements and near plumbing.

Mostly eat cellulose, so a common pest for papers and books, but will also eat cotton and linen fabrics, starches in book or wallpaper paste, flour, etc.

Related firebrats like hot humid places.

Commonly known as book lice.

Can eat glue used in book bindings.

Feed mostly on molds, so presence is a sign of mold growth.

Omnivores (surprise –cockroaches eat almost anything!).

American cockroaches are reddish-brown and can be 1.5 inches long.

German cockroaches are brown or tan and .5-.75 inches long.

MICE RATS

Clean regularly to remove food sources and places to hide.

Bugs feed on other dead bugs.

Dust can contain hair, skin, and other food sources for pests.

Food crumbs, drink spills, stains and trash are all good food sources.

Know that pesticides can be damaging to objects (and people and pets!)…. Go green!

1. Isolate the infested object(s) so you can better monitor the number and types of pests and prevent spread.

2. Remove as many pests or pest evidence (webs, frass, etc.) as possible using tweezers, vacuum, etc.

Be aware that sometimes in removing pests, parts of the object will also be removed or damaged!

3. Deep clean affected areas and continue to monitor.

4. Sealing and freezing objects may be effective, but requires special equipment (the freezer on top of your fridge won’t do!).

5. Pest traps for certain types of pests are widely available online or at hardware stores.

6. REPEAT as necessary.

Airborne pollutants – chemicals from cleaning products, paints, etc.

Particulate pollutants – most common is DUST Abrasive, absorbs moisture, attracts pests, acidic

Keep areas where objects are stored clean.

Use HEPA filtered vacuums.

Use soft brushes or cloths when dusting.

Avoid introducing chemicals when possible.

Clean with water rather than harsh cleaners.

Avoid storing important items in buildings where people smoke.

Silver – loss of plating

Three types of light all cause damage: Visible Ultraviolet (UV) Infrared

Museums (and you) are most concerned about visible and ultraviolet. Visible light causes fading and color shifts. UV causes deterioration of objects by affecting chemical bonds. Light damage compounds over time and is irreversible.

The only way to avoid light damage is to reduce or remove light exposure to an object

Light exposure = light intensity x exposure length.

UV can be filtered and reduced based on light sources.

Always avoid direct light.

Honestly, keeping things in the dark is always ideal.

Incorrect in this case can mean three different things:

Too high (speeds up deterioration and chemical processes, high RH can lead to mold growth).

Too low (can cause physical deterioration).

Too much fluctuation (can cause materials to swell and shrink, leading to deterioration).

Avoid storing items in areas of environmental extremes (attics, basements, garages).

Avoid displaying or storing objects in areas of greatest temp or RH fluctuations (e.g. near radiators or vents, near windows, etc.).

Create “micro-climates” using housing materials.

So now that we know what to avoid and what NOT to do…what CAN we do to

protect important items at home?

Handling artifacts increases:

Risk of physical damage

Chances of oils on hands reacting with materials

When possible, store objects in containers that can be moved rather than having to take objects out

Keep out of direct sunlight. Reduce amount of light exposure by reducing

intensity and exposure time. Filter as much UV from light sources as possible. Protect objects from dust and other pollutants. Clean objects as little as possible. Regularly inspect objects and areas around them for

pests. House objects in appropriate materials.

Should be in high quality, acid-free materials Containers should be pH neutral (acid-free) and if possible, lignin free.

Buffered vs. Unbuffered – when in doubt, use unbuffered!

Beware: with the proliferation of scrapbooking as a hobby, many materials are now advertised as “acid-free” that may or may not be high quality.

Even though materials start out acid-free, the acid will migrate over time and these materials must be replaced.

Avoid most plastics They deteriorate over time (many very quickly).

High quality polyethylene bags can be used.

Polyethylene foam such as Ethafoam can be used.

Mylar or Melinex sleeves are good for photos

Try to reduce the need for folding.

If folds exist in paper items, talk to a conservator before trying to “flatten” them.

Textiles:

▪ If they must be folded, pad out the folds with acid-free tissue to avoid harsh creases and change the fold pattern regularly.

▪ Keeping clothing flat is better than hanging it, but if it must hang, pad out the hanger with cotton batting and cotton muslin.

Within a box:

Don’t allow objects to touch each other.

Remove loose parts such as lids and store separately.

Pad out any rough, sharp, or abrasive surfaces.

Make sure containers are designed for easy access to materials while protecting them during movement.

Canadian Conservation Institute www.cci-icc.gc.ca/caringfor-prendresoindes/collections-

eng.aspx

Nitrate Film (from Northeast Document Conservation Center) http://www.nedcc.org/resources/leaflets/5Photographs/01Short

Guide.php

Book – Caring for Your Family Treasures by Jane S. and Richard W. Long http://www.heritagepreservation.org/PUBS/treasures.HTM

Library of Congress Preservation http://www.loc.gov/preservation/family/

American Institute for Conservation

www.conservation-us.org

Appraisers Association of America

www.appraisersassoc.org/

American Society of Appraisers – Denver Chapter

http://old.appraisers.org/denver/

Archival Methods866.877.7050www.archivalmethods.com

Gaylord Brothers1.800.962.9580www.gaylord.com

Hollinger /Metal Edge1-800-634-0491www.hollingermetaledge.com

Light Impressions1-800-975-6429www.lightimpressionsdirect.com

University Products1-800-628-1912www.universityproducts.com

The Container StoreStores near Cherry Creek, Flatiron

Crossing, Park Meadows1-888-CONTAINwww.containerstore.com