D6 0| BREAKING NEWS: VANCOUVERSUN.COM | SATURDAY,...
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D6 || ARTS & LIFE ADVERTISING INFORMATION sunprovince.com MIA STAINSBY VANCOUVER SUN Absinthe Bistro 1260 Commercial Dr. | 604-566-9053 Info: bistroabsinthe.com France, being the world’s vault for bistro fairy dust, is where owner/chef Cory Pearson headed after nishing culinary school in Vancouver. Pearson’s food isn’t overpowered by butter or heavy sauces; it’s light, technically intelligent and tasty. The very short menu changes over the month but the scallops with heavenly mashed potatoes, and beurre blanc are a cling-on dish by popular demand. You can have a two or a three-course meal for $28 and $35, respectively. That’s an awesome deal if the food is above the ordinary and, I can assure you, it is. Ask For Luigi 305 Alexander St. | 604-428-2544 Info: askforluigi.com Ask not for Luigi, but for Jean Christophe Poirier. Luigi is a made-up name but the guy behind this pasta and appies- focused spot is J.C., as he’s called, and he’s toiled in some of Canada’s nest restau- rants (Toque in Montreal, Lumiere under Rob Feenie in Vancouver) but like many other chefs, he’s been exing his culinary muscles in casual venues (Pourhouse, Pizzeria Farina) in recent years. His pasta is made daily, including an unparalleled gluten free tagliatelle, which he’ll match with the pasta sauces on oer. Bistro Wagon Rouge 1869 Powell St. | 604-251-4070 No website It’s another brick in the gentrication wall in East Van. Here, Brad Miller is in his element with French bistro food. He still runs Red Wagon, his lower-brow café that’s always packed for his hearty breakfasts and lunches. At Wagon Rouge, the food is classic bistro, a slam dunk for Miller, once chef at Bistro Pastis for ve years. He moved into the space vacated by The Dockers Café, which was popular with nearby dockworkers. Miller preserves that slice of history, retaining a well-worn feel. It could be parachuted into a little French village, or maybe Marseilles, and be right at home. Burdock & Co. 2702 Main St. | 604-879-0077 Info: burdockandco.com In the largely male efdom of chefs, Andrea Carlson is right up there at the top of the heap. Her food has been more accessible since she moved from the ne dining realms (Bishop’s, Raincity Grill) to more aordable cuisine. She makes the best gluten-free apple pie ever. Whether it’s fresh shucked oysters with nger-lime caviar, radish, chickweed, apple and ver- bena sorbet; or fried chicken thighs with charred chili vinegar, aioli and pickles, she’s totally in control. Cuchillo 261 Powell St. | 604-559-7585 Info: Cuchillo.ca Owner/chef Stu Irving cooks like his personality — bold and assertive. He’s cooked at Bin 941, Wild Rice and he rocked the Latin menu at Cobre. At Cuchillo, he picks up where he left o at Cobre (before the lease was terminated). Between the closing (of Cobre) and the opening (of Cuchillo), Irving introduced a new menu at Number 5 Orange strip club, a menu that kept patrons from escaping for lunch elsewhere. At Cuchillo, the small plates lean toward Mexican food but he brings in Peruvian, Chilean and Colombian dishes, too. Dinesty on Robson 1719 Robson St. | 604-669-7769 No website This restaurant is feverishly busy, both in Richmond and now, in Vancouver. It doesn’t scale the heights of best Chinese (Shanghainese in this case) food, but the food is mouth-watering, all the same. If you haven’t tried a xiao bun (one of those Chinese marvels, a dumpling that holds a soup), add it to your bucket list. You don’t nd a lot of these babies around Vancouver. And for another theatrical presentation, the yellow croaker is a deboned whole sh, sandwiched inside basketry, deep-fried and presented in the basket. Wicked! Dunlevy Snackbar 433 Dunlevy St. | 604-569-0434 Info: dunlevysnackbar.com OK, so it’s a hole-in-the-wall. Nothing wrong with that if the food gets you all excited. The “snack bar” serves Korean food in a room that hasn’t changed much from its days as a “little old lady hair salon” (owner Theo Lloyd-Kohls’ words). It’s not quite Momofuku but the food is yummy, the ambience arty, and it beats eating under the big yellow ‘M’ for about the same price. This was a breakfast joint until it got the all-clear for a liquor licence this year. That’s when chef Aarin Smith went to work creating a vibrant dinner menu. The bibimbap brought me to my knees. REVIEWS The ABCs of best new restaurants From light French cuisine to simple comfort food, there’s something for every taste and budget NICK PROCAYLO/PNG FILES The Bibimbap with Korean ribs at the Dunlevy Snackbar. GERRY KAHRMANN/PNG FILES Matt Ellis prepares meals in the open kitchen at the Homer St. Café and Bar that features comfort food including shortribs with mushroom pie. CONTINUED ON D | BREAKING NEWS: VANCOUVERSUN.COM | SATURDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2013 VANSAF46864_1_1 VAN01147788_1_5 VAN01156891_1_1 VAN01159245_1_1
Transcript of D6 0| BREAKING NEWS: VANCOUVERSUN.COM | SATURDAY,...
D6 || ARTS & LIFE
ADVERTISING INFORMATIONsunprovince.com
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The Vancouver Sun and Province Logo Sheet & Brand Guidelines
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MIA STAINSBYVANCOUVER SUN
Absinthe Bistro1260 Commercial Dr. | 604-566-9053Info: bistroabsinthe.com
France, being the world’s vault for bistro fairy dust, is where owner/chef Cory Pearson headed after !nishing culinary school in Vancouver. Pearson’s food isn’t overpowered by butter or heavy sauces; it’s light, technically intelligent and tasty. The very short menu changes over the month but the scallops with heavenly mashed potatoes, and beurre blanc are a cling-on dish by popular demand. You can have a two or a three-course meal for $28 and $35, respectively. That’s an awesome deal if the food is above the ordinary and, I can assure you, it is.
Ask For Luigi305 Alexander St. | 604-428-2544Info: askforluigi.com
Ask not for Luigi, but for Jean Christophe Poirier. Luigi is a made-up name but the guy behind this pasta and appies-focused spot is J.C., as he’s called, and he’s toiled in some of Canada’s !nest restau-rants (Toque in Montreal, Lumiere under Rob Feenie in Vancouver) but like many other chefs, he’s been "exing his culinary muscles in casual venues (Pourhouse, Pizzeria Farina) in recent years. His pasta is made daily, including an unparalleled gluten free tagliatelle, which he’ll match with the pasta sauces on o#er.
Bistro Wagon Rouge1869 Powell St. | 604-251-4070 No website
It’s another brick in the gentri!cation wall in East Van. Here, Brad Miller is in his element with French bistro food. He still runs Red Wagon, his lower-brow café that’s always packed for his hearty breakfasts and lunches. At Wagon Rouge, the food is classic bistro, a slam dunk for
Miller, once chef at Bistro Pastis for !ve years. He moved into the space vacated by The Dockers Café, which was popular with nearby dockworkers. Miller preserves that slice of history, retaining a well-worn feel. It could be parachuted into a little French village, or maybe Marseilles, and be right at home.
Burdock & Co.2702 Main St. | 604-879-0077Info: burdockandco.com
In the largely male !efdom of chefs, Andrea Carlson is right up there at the top of the heap. Her food has been more accessible since she moved from the !ne dining realms (Bishop’s, Raincity Grill) to more a#ordable cuisine. She makes the best gluten-free apple pie ever. Whether it’s fresh shucked oysters with !nger-lime caviar, radish, chickweed, apple and ver-bena sorbet; or fried chicken thighs with charred chili vinegar, aioli and pickles, she’s totally in control.
Cuchillo261 Powell St. | 604-559-7585Info: Cuchillo.ca
Owner/chef Stu Irving cooks like his personality — bold and assertive. He’s cooked at Bin 941, Wild Rice and he rocked the Latin menu at Cobre. At Cuchillo, he picks up where he left o# at Cobre (before the lease was terminated). Between the closing (of Cobre) and the opening (of Cuchillo), Irving introduced a new menu at Number 5 Orange strip club, a menu that kept patrons from escaping for lunch elsewhere. At Cuchillo, the small plates lean toward Mexican food but he brings in Peruvian, Chilean and Colombian dishes, too.
Dinesty on Robson1719 Robson St. | 604-669-7769 No website
This restaurant is feverishly busy, both in Richmond and now, in Vancouver. It doesn’t scale the heights of best Chinese (Shanghainese in this case) food, but the food is mouth-watering, all the same. If you haven’t tried a xiao bun (one of those Chinese marvels, a dumpling that holds a soup), add it to your bucket list. You don’t !nd a lot of these babies around Vancouver. And for another theatrical presentation, the yellow croaker is a deboned whole !sh, sandwiched inside basketry, deep-fried and presented in the basket. Wicked!
Dunlevy Snackbar433 Dunlevy St. | 604-569-0434 Info: dunlevysnackbar.com
OK, so it’s a hole-in-the-wall. Nothing wrong with that if the food gets you all excited. The “snack bar” serves Korean food in a room that hasn’t changed much from its days as a “little old lady hair salon” (owner Theo Lloyd-Kohls’ words). It’s not quite Momofuku but the food is yummy, the ambience arty, and it beats eating under the big yellow ‘M’ for about the same price. This was a breakfast joint until it got the all-clear for a liquor licence this year. That’s when chef Aarin Smith went to work creating a vibrant dinner menu. The bibimbap brought me to my knees.
REVIEWS
The ABCs of best new restaurantsFrom light French cuisine to simple comfort food, there’s something for every taste and budget
NICK PROCAYLO/PNG FILES
The Bibimbap with Korean ribs at the Dunlevy Snackbar.
GERRY KAHRMANN/PNG FILES
Matt Ellis prepares meals in the open kitchen at the Homer St. Café and Bar that features comfort food including shortribs with mushroom pie.
CONTINUED ON D!
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Farmer’s Apprentice1535 West Sixth Ave. | 604-620-2070Info: farmersapprentice.ca
It’s death defying for a chef to spin out new dishes daily and on the spot. The business dies unless the chef is really experienced, creative, and can nail the dishes. In David Gunawan’s case, it’s check, check, check. The food is haute (hay-smoked quail is certainly no diner dish) but the tone of the room is casual enough for jeans and going outside to say hello to Gyoza (who is his dog, chill-ing patiently on the patio). In summer, farmers decide the fate of the menu. They bring in what’s at peak and Gu-nawan transforms them. He manned the kitchens at West and Wildebeest before opening his own place. While Wildebeest was more about beasts, Farmer’s Appren-tice tends to love vegetables more and gives them a lot of love. One evening, I had a composition of white beets, kohl-rabi, verjus sorbet and honey yogurt; it was like Michelin-starred veggies. On the other hand, the Shaoxing wine-braised pork terrine with pickled veg was a drool fest for meat lovers.
Homer St. Café & Bar898 Homer St. | 604-428-4299Info: homerstreetcafebar.com
In the tumult of the nervous economy of a few years ago, we discovered our restaurant bliss point at casual, a! ord-able places. Homer St. Café was about as fancy as it got in 2013 and it’s a bistro, albeit a pretty fancy one, anchored by a " re-engine red Rotisol Grande Flamme Olympia roasting multiple spits of free range chicken. The lower level of the bistro is clean and chic in white Carrera marble; the upper level is more conserva-tive in dark wood. The executive chef is Marc Andre Choquette of Tableau at the Loden Hotel. Homer St. Café celebrates comfort foods (like shortribs with mush-room pie in a cast iron casserole and garganelli pasta with lobster).
Kessel & March1701 Powell St. | 604-874-1197Info: kesselandmarch.com
Considering the live-work artists’ studio in the building, Kessel & March leans toward bohemian. The food, however, isn’t low rent. Chef/operator Tony Marzo has paid dues in the culinary boot camps of several Michelin-starred restaurants in London, including a stint where he plucked perfect tulip petals and readied them for " lling and steaming. He has also
cooked at Café Brio in Victoria (at a time when it was my favourite restaurant in the city). Kessel & March has the feel of a café but the chopped-up lay-out isn’t the most intimate. However, the small plates encourage closeness. He frequently changes up the dishes but his soups are really creamy and velvety and if he’s got ricotta gnocchi on, it should be tried.
LONGTAIL KITCHEN810 Quayside, New West. | 604-553-3855Info: longtailkitchen.com
I’ll take a pass on the real Longtail taxis of Thailand (noisy, smelly, demonic driv-ers) but I do love Longtail Kitchen. But it’s a long-distance romance for me and it’s a cross I must bear. Chef Angus An (of Maenam Thai restaurant) celebrates Thai food, street-style at the New West Quay, only it’s better than most you’ll " nd on Bangkok streets. A clam bake for two, grilled hen, " sh curry on rice, crispy chicken wings, oysters po’ boy style — all delicious!
PIDGIN350 Carrall St. | 604-620-9400Info: pidginvancouver.com
The target of protesters against gentri" ca-tion in the Downtown Eastside but Pidgin has won more supporters than avoiders. But it is indeed an anomaly of haute food (albeit at mid-range prices) amid poverty. Chef Makoto Ono will serve you dishes you’ve never met before, such as sea urchin with cauli# ower mousse, ponzu jalapeno salsa, dashi and paper-thin slices of cauli# ower or yakisoba inspired calamari with bacon, squid ink sauce. For patrons to have pushed past the placard waving and name-calling, there’s gotta be alluring food inside. And there is.
L’Ufficio3687 West Fourth Ave. | 604-676-1007Info: Laquercia.ca/lu! cio.html
Run by Adam Pegg and Lucais Syme, who channel artisanal Italian food at La Quercia and La Pentola. They opened this little place, next door to La Quercia, a great spot to stop in for Italian wine, cheese, charcuterie and antipasti. A must try is the culatello di Zibello, a beautiful cured ham, with fresh-from-Italy burrata. For those who are more famished, there are some big-appetite dishes, too, from the La Quercia kitchen.
MARK VAN MANEN/PNG
Burdock & Co. on Main St. is a lively spot where Chef Andrea Carlson serves dishes like oysters with radish and Kasu.
KIM STALLKNECHT/PNG FILES
The Dinesty on Robson restaurant is a busy spot with large glass windows showcasing the chefs at work. Included in the Shanghai-style menu are hard-to-fi nd xiao buns, delicious dumplings with soup inside.
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