E t h n i c Tr i b e s

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Bangkok, 25 October 2010

Dear Partner,

This month‟s edition of D-Brief showcases the fascinating beliefs and traditions of diverse

ethnic tribes in Laos, Bhutan and Malaysia.

In the highlands of the Himalayas, two nomadic tribes have adapted perfectly to the

extreme Bhutanese weather conditions, while in Sarawak the Ibans – a tribe widely known

for its headhunting traditions – live hand in hand with the jungle, its animals, plants and

spirits. Laos, with over 240 ethnic groups, is home to many hill tribe communities that can

also be found in Thailand, Myanmar, Vietnam, Cambodia and southern China: The true

melting pot of Asia!

We thought this topic would be useful to you when recommending a cultural encounter

with a difference. Diethelm Travel offers various experiences you can pre-book, which

incorporate these intriguing people.

Sincerely yours,

Victoria Sertic

Chief Sales Officer

Diethelm Travel Group

ETHNIC TRIBES Bhutan

The Nomads of Bhutan

While moving around with their yaks, the

Layaps and Lunaps find shelter in tents

made out of tightly woven yak wool. The

yak wool is waterproof but allows smoke

to escape and at the same time permits

light and fresh air into the tent. A truly

amazing material! When the families

move down to warmer areas in winter,

they stay with host families. In exchange

for a roof over their heads, they work for

their host and trade their animal products

for food or other goods they need.

The tribal dress shows another example

of how well the Layap and Lunap people

have adapted to their environment. The

Layap women, who stay with the yaks,

dress in vibrant and colorful dresses,

made up of layered yak wool garments.

The men on the other hand, are dressed

in simple, weather proof yak garments, to

assist in dealing with extreme weather

conditions on their long trading missions.

The Gasa district, which covers the middle

and high Himalayas at altitudes from 2770

to 8000 meters, is located in the extreme

northwest of Bhutan. Gasa‟s winters are

extremely cold with heavy snowfall,

whereas its summers are short with little

rain. Despite this climate, two tribes have

settled in what is probably the highest and

most remote region on earth: the Layaps

and Lunaps.

The Layaps and Lunaps are semi-nomadic

yak herders. Their lifestyle is centred

around the seasons and the yaks; which

are a source of food, transportation,

shelter and an indispensable part of their

culture. In summer the families move from

yak camp to yak camp to allow their cattle

to graze on different areas. Yak camps

exist at up to 6000 metres altitude and

can, due to the extreme weather, only be

utilized in summer.

The Legend of the Layaps & Lunaps

believe, if they fail to wear the hats, the village

spirits will be upset and misfortune will come

back to the people.”

The Lunaps, on the other hand, found Bayu –

the hidden land – for a very different reason:

“Long ago, when Shabdrung Ngwang Namgyal,

the founder of Bhutan, was building Punakha

Dzong, the palace of great happiness, he asked

for a workforce from all over the Country.

However, a lot of men did not want to help

building the palace and hid in the mountains.

According to legend, the Lunaps ran the furthest

to high altitudes, where they still live today. Due

to their choice of settlement, in a very remote

location, the Lunaps had a reputation for

wanting to be left alone and not opening up to

visitors. However, nowadays they welcome all

tourists warmly.”

Living in villages as isolated as Laya and

Lunana, legends are turned into history. Both

tribes are said to have originated from Tibet in

the fifteenth century and the elders, still today,

tell the tales of their origin and culture. An

example of which below:

“The Layaps used to live in southern Tibet in a

region that was haunted by a series of

unfortunate events. These were believed to be

caused by a terrible curse and so the

inhabitants of the village decided that the only

way to end the curse was to send it away. The

residents of one unlucky village were chosen

and banished, dressed in black cloaks and a

pointed hat. It took them several days to find

a new home, but when they saw the beautiful

valley beneath the majestic Mount Masagang

they shouted, “La-Ya” in excitement. Since

then the inhabitants of Laya – the Layaps –

have kept their unusual outfits as it ultimately

brought them luck. The distinctively pointed

hat is still worn today by the women, who

Source: Wangchhuck, A., Treasures of the Thunder Dragon, Penguin 2006

Source: Wangchhuck, A., Treasures of the Thunder Dragon, Penguin 2006

Did You Know?

• As men can be away from the family for a long

period of time, a Lunap or Layap women can have

more than one husband. Sometimes the co-

husbands are brothers, so that whilst one brother

is away on a trading mission, the other one can

still help at home with the yaks.

• Bhutanese people, who chant prayers on prayer

beads are a common sight, especially on religious

days. There are 108 beads in a Buddhist rosary,

which is a sacred number corresponding to the

108 different manifestations of the Buddha of

Compassion.

• Chewing of Doma Pani (betel leaf and areca nut

with a dash of lime), which is carried by many in

their pouches, is an all time favorite all over

Bhutan. The offering of doma to someone is an

act of friendship, politeness and a mark of

generosity.

Old Spirits Protect Buddhist Deities

When Buddhism was introduced from Tibet into

Bhutan, the locals did not just replace their old

believes with the new religion. They simply integrated

Buddhism into their shamanistic and animistic

practices. Nowadays, the Layaps and Lunaps believe

in a mixture of the two religions. The tribes believe in

animistic gods that were especially created to defend

and protect Buddhism.

Both tribes attach great importance to the spirit

world. When people have disturbed or displeased the

spirits, it is believed, they will fall sick or suffer

misfortune. Often, the village astrologer is the only

person who can soothe the spirits again.

In Lunana, for instance, there are sacred forests that

belong to the demon tree and myth has it, that

people who need to cross these forests, have to ask

the spirits for permission.

Even though the Layaps and Lunaps pray to their

spirits and Buddhist deities, there are distinct

differences between the two tribes: The Lunaps walk

around their shrines anti-clockwise whereas the

Layaps walk around them clockwise.

Active travellers who wish to experience the lifestyle

and tradition of Bhutan‟s nomadic tribes first hand,

can join a 20 day trek to the Laya villages. Hikers

will enjoy fantastic panoramic views at an altitude of

up to 4900 meters as well as the very interesting

local flora and fauna.

The trekking tour starts in the lower Paro region and

on the way up to the Thimphu region, traditional

Laya and Gasa villages will be visited. According to

Layap tradition, anyone can visit any local household

without invitation. Therefore, the hikers are always

greeted by friendly faces with a cup of tea. In the

evenings your guide will, among other things, take

you to hot springs for a revitalizing bath or invite you

to taste locally brewed beer.

A Diethelm Travel Bhutan representative will be your

tour guide throughout the trek and will make sure

that you have a unique cultural experience.

Experience The Layaps Yourself

ETHNIC TRIBES Laos

The Cultural Melting Pot of Indochina

As diverse as Laos' indigenous people are

in cultural and linguistic terms, as diverse

is their adaptation to the natural and

social environment they live in.

Despite the importance of Buddhism in

Laos, most ethnic tribes still worship

animist spirits. Animist shrines are found

in many parts the country and festivals to

honour the spirits and ancestors are hold

all year around.

We have picked four ethnic groups, each

coming from a different ethno linguistic

background, to show you just how unique

the tribes in terms of their religious

beliefs and traditions are. From predicting

the future by reading chicken bones to

kidnapping your bride, the people of Laos

definitely have many interesting stories to

tell!

Laos is a country rich in history and

beauty. But it has so much more to offer

than beautiful temples, great scenery and

treks through the hilly forests of the

North:

Being land locked, in the heart of

Indochina, Laos has the most ethnically

diverse population of mainland South East

Asia. The people of Laos can be divided

into four distinctive groups according to

their ethno linguistic origin: the Tai-Kadai,

the Hmong-Yao, the Mon-Khmer and the

Tibeto-Burman group. Each group is

divided in many ethnic sub groups,

resulting in more than 240 tribes that can

be found in Laos. Unsurprisingly, the six

million inhabitants of Laos who live in an

area somewhat smaller than Britain speak

over sixty dialects.

The Four Ethno Linguistic Groups of Laos

The Khmu people live in themost northern provinces and areaboriginal to Laos and its neigh-bouring countries. They belong tothe Mon-Khmer language group.

The Akha people most probablyarrived from Mongolia some 1500years ago. They speak Akha, alanguage that belongs to theTibeto-Burman language group.

The Tai Lao are also called the„low land‟ Lao. They are membersof the Tai Kadai language groupand moved from China‟s Yunnanprovince in the 10th century.

The Hmong people migrated inthe 18th century from southernChina to Laos due to politicalunrests. Their language belongsto the Hmong-Yao group.

Picture source: Traditional Arts an Ethnology Centre (TAEC), Luang Prabang

If a Hmong boy intends to marry a Hmong girl he

will indicate his interest and kidnap her, day or night,

from her parent‟s house. A group from the boy‟s clan

will then bring the message of the kidnapping to the

girl‟s family. At the groom‟s house the bride is

welcomed with a ritual blessing that asks the

ancestors to welcome the new arrival into the

household. After three days, the couple will return to

the bride‟s house, where the actual wedding

ceremony will take place.

The groom‟s family is required to pay a „bride price‟

to the bride‟s family. Usually the price is negotiated

prior to the abduction of the bride and is traditionally

paid in silver bars or livestock. However, nowadays

money is the preferred payment method. After the

marriage, the girl will return to the boy‟s clan, where

another party is held to thank the people that made

the kidnapping a success: the negotiator(s), the

groomsman and brides maid.

The Hmong People

The Khmu believe in fate and have a selection of

different ceremonies at hand to determine what lies

in store for them. Some of these ceremonies are for

the ill, some for the happy and some for the unhappy.

A minor ritual, which can be performed by any elder

or knowledgeable member of the family, is the

chicken bone divination. The spirits are being asked

what the future will look like by sacrificing a chicken

and then studying its bones. The ceremony leader

will closely examine the holes on each chicken thigh-

bone and then predict good or bad luck, depending

on the circumstances of the divination. This is a very

difficult undergoing as the reader of the bones must

be very knowledgeable or he will never find the right

answer.

In case of an unfortunate prediction, the Hmong will

try to protect themselves against any bad spirits that

could make members of the family ill and thus

eventually prevent the clan of working in the fields.

The Khmu People

The Akha people are animists and believe that each

person that dies, in some way, is protecting the

village and making sure that there is an abundance

of rice crops. This is why one of the most important

symbols in any Akha village is the ceremonial swing

that is rebuilt every year.

The Swing Ceremony is held in mid-August and

September, approximately two months before

harvest season. During the four days and nights, the

Akha people sing, dance and make merit, as an

expression of respect to their ancestors. On the

second day of the festivities, last year‟s swing, is

replaced by a new one. The swing is constructed

from four newly cut trees, with a seat suspended

from a vine rope. Usually, the entire village

collaborates to build the swing with the help of a

shaman without whom, no sacred swing could be

erected.

If you happen to be trekking to one of the villages

during the festivities, you might be lucky to watch or

even be allowed to participate in the colorful event.

The Akha People

The Tai Lao People

The Thai Lao believe that our human body consists

of 32 organs and that the kwan, (which is often

described as a vital force that gives harmony and

balance to the body), protects the organs. The more

kwan are kept in one‟s body, the healthier a person

is. The „Baci‟ Ceremony is a common ceremony the

Tai Lao celebrate to call for the kwan of a person, in

the case of illness, and lead them back to the body,

thus re-establishing the balance. The ceremony is

usually held in times of transition: birth, marriage,

home coming or leaving, entering the monkhood or

after illness and injuries.

This „calling of the soul‟ according to Laotian beliefs,

can also be experienced by visitors and is a nice way

to explain how the spirits are tied to your body. The

ceremony ends by everybody tying threads around

each other‟s wrists. If you leave at least one of the

threads until it rots away, good luck will come to

you. Diethelm Travel can organize participation in a

„Baci‟ Ceremony for interested visitors.

Discover Laos’ Cultural Diversity Yourself

Located in a heritage building, the Traditional Arts an

Ethnology Centre (TAEC) in Luang Prabang exhibits

ethnic clothing, religious artefacts and handicrafts,

accompanied by explanations and photos. It is the

only institution in Laos that develops activities to

promote cultural diversity and preservation. Book a

guided tour with Diethelm Travel and learn about the

background of the exhibits on display. The Museum is

also a great spot to buy handicrafts directly from

ethnic producers at a fair price for both producers

and buyers.

"Fair Trek“ is a Luang Prabang based initiative of

villages, the government, local tour operators and

NGOs. The initiative aims to create new job

opportunities for villagers through tourism in a

sustainable way. It integrates visitors into the every

day life of local ethnic tribes, while still regulating the

number of guests to ensure the preservation of local

traditions. Diethelm Travel offers "Fair Trek"

adventures from a couple of hours up to 13 days in

length.

ETHNIC TRIBES Malaysia

The Iban of Sarawak

The Iban, at 30 percent of the entire

population, are the largest tribe in Sarawak.

In the 17th century the Iban arrived from

Indonesia and back then, they had a

reputation for practicing headhunting as

well as aggressive territorial expansion.

Many nowadays extinct tribes of Sarawak

are believed to have been exterminated by

the Ibans.

The Iban traditionally live in longhouses on

stilts which are located near to a river,

accommodating the entire village. Each

longhouse consist of several units for

individual families, called „bilek‟. All bileks

are linked by a communal corridor that

spans the length of the house and is

divided into three parts. The space right

outside a bilek is used exclusively by the

family, where domestic work can be done.

The rest of the corridor functions as public

space and guests can sleep along the outer

wall, when staying over.

For Ibans, longhouses are not just a home

and shelter. Each longhouse is respected as

a „ritual entity‟, which belongs to the

spiritual world. The Ibans believe that

outside of their longhouse, there is a world

of evil spirits and this is why certain parts

of the longhouse, such as the entry ladder

to the house or the fireplace in the kitchen,

have sacred meanings.

Living along rivers, each Iban family

possesses at least one boat, big enough to

fit eight people and mainly used as

transport to and from the paddy fields or

for short trips. Iban practice shifting

cultivation in planting their rice. The tribe

tends to alternate planting of their rice

which is an essential part of their daily life.

This ritual usually ends with a harvest

festival in May. The Iban community

celebrates many rituals, which can span

from agricultural festivals to healing

ceremonies or rituals for the dead.

The Spirit World of the Iban

The Iban believe that nothing happens without cause.

This is why their religion is paying attention to all

events whether in the conscious or sleeping stage. In

the Iban world, all objects have souls of their own

and during daily activities, the soul of man and of

spirits often could affect one another. In Iban belief

and narratives trees talk, plants walk, monkeys

become demons, household tools moan for lack of

attention and the sex of a human fetus is determined

by a cricket.

This holistic approach towards spirits and objects

explains why the Ibans used to keep the head of their

enemies as trophy. It was believed that, once the

enemy‟s head was ritually purified, the soul of the

victim would become part of the villages‟ ancestral

spirit group. During ceremonies, the Iban shaman

asked for the help and support of their former enemy

who now turned into their ally.

Iban Schamanism – Talking to the Spirits

“In the beginning I used to accompany my father,

who was a shaman too, whenever there was a

healing ceremony taking place. That‟s how I gained a

lot of experience and I learned the „Leka Pelian‟

narrative as well as other shamanic songs. At a later

stage, my father gave me a proper introduction into

his profession and I started to learn more and more

alongside him. Among other things, I managed to

send my soul out into the cosmos with the aid of a

spirit guide. We Iban believe that „this world‟ has

unseen dimensions where only your soul and the

spirits can go. With a lot of practice, I eventually was

able to go beyond this world; into the unseen „land of

the dead‟. My responsibilities are to heal my patients

by all means. In the jungle, rivers and mountains that

surround us, there live many spirits, souls, evils and

ghosts. My healing skills have no barrier because I

believe, I can communicate with the spirits. I work

with what the jungle offers us and use special stones,

oils and knifes that have been handed down from

generation to generation.”

Told by Unding anak Libau, shaman of the Serubah Ulu longhouse community

In the past, both men and women of the Iban tribe

were tattooed. These tattoos are more than just

decoration, with each having its own meaning and

significance. For young men the first tattoo is usually

the illustration of the flower of a local egg-plant,

tattooed underneath the outside edge of his collar

bone. The tattoo location is chosen because this is

where the straps of backpacks rest, making the

wearer strong for the „bejalai‟ journey. During this

path towards manhood, a young man has to gain his

wealth and fame. On the journey he visits other Iban

communities, where his help is rewarded with more

tattoos. On his return the tattoos can be read like a

map of where he has been and what he has

accomplished. For women there are special designs

too, with each tattoo being awarded to a woman

upon attaining a particular skill (e.g. weaving).

Traditional tattooing is fairly painful and is thus

regarded as a small test in itself, especially the first

two designs. Today, the tattoos are quite easily

available for both locals and tourists who visit

Kuching or other parts of Sarawak.

Iban Tattoos – More Than Just Decoration

If you are interested in learning more about the

fascinating Iban culture and want to experience a

night or two in the jungle, Diethelm Travel operates

two to four day jungle experiences.

An example is:

Around 290 kilometres away from Kuching in the

rainforest of Sarawak, you will board a native

longboat and travel upstream for 45 minutes on the

Lemanak River. You will arrive at the Iban long house

„Ngemah Ulu‟ and at the village, you will be served

tea and meet everyone.

This home stay will give you ample opportunity to

learn more about the Iban‟s way of life and join

activities such as weaving or fishing. Your Iban guide

will take you on a jungle trek and show you what the

rainforest offers: medicinal or edible plants and fruits,

which are used on a daily basis. After dinner at the

long house, the Ibans will sound their gongs and

perform their war dance in full ceremonial regalia.

You will stay overnight in the longhouse with the

Ibans. A very enlightening experience!

Experience The Ibans Yourself

Visa Section

BHUTAN

Visitors to Bhutan are required to book and

obtain their visa through a registered tour

operator, as independent travel is not permitted

in the kingdom. Diethelm Travel arranges entry

visas and clearance for all our customers well in

advance of travel.

In order for us to apply for a Bhutanese visa,

we need to supply clients with a visa application

form. This needs to be filled in and e-mailed

back to us at least three weeks before departing

for Bhutan. Additionally, every client has to

provide a clear scanned copy of her/his passport

and needs to bring three additional passport

pictures with her/him.

The visa fee with Diethelm Travel is included in

any of our quotations for Bhutan. Visas are

required for all visitors, with the exception of

Bangladesh, Maldivians & Indian nationals,

travelling to Bhutan.

Important notes:

o It is a requirement of The Department of

Tourism in the Kingdom of Bhutan that your

visa application is TYPED rather than

handwritten. Handwritten visa applications

may not be accepted.

o Some travellers might hold multiple

passports, however it is important that the

visa matches the passport your client is

travelling with.

o Please ensure that the passport is at least 6

months valid at the point of entry to Bhutan.

Visa Section

Visa Section Bhutan

Ingredients:• 250 gms fish washed, sliced • 1 cup coriander leaves chopped• 2 tomatoes finely chopped• 8 cloves garlic• 2 green chillies chopped • 1 tsp methi seeds • 1 tsp coriander powder • A pinch turmeric powder • Salt to taste • Oil as required

How to make Indian fish curry:Marinate the fish in salt and turmeric powder for 15minutes.Shallow fry the fish pieces, drain and keep aside.Grind the coriander leaves, garlic and green chillies.Heat oil, add masala paste and fry till the oilseparates.Add tomatoes, methi seeds and powder masalasand fry till the oil begins to float on top.Add about 1 cup water. Bring the gravy to a boil.Add the fish slices and cook for 10 minutes.Serve fish curry hot.

Source: Indian Food Forever

Recipe of the Month: Indian Fish Curry

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D - B r i e f

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