The Perfect

Panel

By Pam Damour

The Drapery Panel: Pinch Pleats have been around for centuries, changing little in the last century or so, and why? Because they work so well, just the way they are. The rumor of their demise in the 1980’s was greatly exaggerated, as there’s nothing that operates smoother, stacks tighter, offering excellent insulation and acoustic value, while still looking beautifully classic. But the fun part is that pinch pleats have evolved into many forms. Some choices are: Traditional French pleat, Goblet pleat, Country pleat, Euro pleat, Tuxedo pleat, relaxed top and grommets. Here are a few Hints: Fullness: industry standards are a minimum of 2 ½ x full Sheers: 3 to 4 X full Headers: Generally using a 4” buckram, allow 8” for a full cuff Hems: Generally 4” double fold (8” total), 5” double fold for sheers (10” total) Lining hems are 2” double fold. If using a partial width, for example 1 ½ width on each side, the partial width goes toward the outside or return edges.

Calculating yardage A) DETERMINING FLAT WIDTH

FW X ___________=_____________ = _________________ =______________ Amount of fullness flat width WOM round up to next whole number number of widths needed

B) DETERMINING FINISHED LENGTH

FL + _________ + ________ = _________ _______ = _________ Amount of header amount of hem cut length w/o RPT size of repeat number of repeats round up to next whole number

= _____________ X ________ = __________

number of repeats required size of repeats total cut length

C) DETERMINING YARDAGE

Multiply A X B to obtain fabric needed = _____________ X _________÷ 36 = __________

A) number of widths B) total cut length total yardage

To Make:

As with most decorating projects, we sew the hem first. Start with the hems. Fold the hem u7p 8”, pulling taut at each end, with table clamps. Holding the fabric taut at 8” at each end will keep the hem relatively straight all the way across. Press flat.

Fold under in half, making a 4” double fold

hem.

Press flat.

Blind hem using your blind hem foot. With the back of the drapery facing you, fold the hem

back, revealing only about 1/8” of the top edge of the hem.

Sewing onto the hem edge, with a blind hem stitch setting, your machine will sew

approximately 4 straight stitches in the top hem edge,

and then make a tiny “bite” into the drapery panel the

folded edge of the drapery panel is guided along the

guide edge of your foot. It’s important to keep this edge

snugged up to the edge for an even and consistent

stitch.

Lining:

Fold 2” double fold lining hems, press and straight stitch the edge, using the edge on your edge joining foot, and moving your needle slightly to the right of center,

With wrong side together, line up the top edges of each hem. (This will make the ling 2” shorter) Line up seams, and pin together to prevent shifting. Trim selvage off the inside or overlap edge.

Press trimmed edge over to make a double fold

1 1/4” side hem. Pin into place, but do not sew.

Drapery Top

Measure the finished length at the top edge, and trim off the excess of 8”. Using a 4”

buckram, double cuff the top edge of your drapery. Be sure to trim both selvages on the face

and lining fabrics.

Finish side hem as shown. The side hem will travel the entire length of the drapery to the top

of the header to the bottom of the

hem.

Calculate and mark for pleats. Depending on

your fullness, use one of the following formulas:

2 X full – 8” per unit (4” pleat & 4” space)

2 ½ X full – 10” per unit (6” pleat & 4” space)

3 X full – 12” per unit (8” pleat & 4” space)

Remember to start with your overlap, usually 4” or the size of your space, and finish with your return, allowing 2 1/2” seam allowance for side hems.

After the drapery top is cuffed, it’s time to mark off the pleats. Pin into the stop edge using

one of the above formulas.

After all pleats and spaces are marked out, trim off excess. Fold and press 1 ¼” remaining

side hem. Pin into place. Before sewing in the pleats, blind hem the sides.

Blind stitch 1 1/4” side hems. If the top or bottom edges

are too thick for blind stitch, you may have to hand sew

that portion. Be sure to include the drapery weight in

the bottom corners.

Sewing in the Pleats:

Fold top over where the pleat is to be, lining up

the pins. This is where you will sew down the

entire length of the buckram.

Set your sewing guide to measure ½ of the

total of the pleat, so with a standard 6” pleat,

set the guide to 3” as shown.

When sewing pleats line up pins, remove pins,

and using the guide, begin sewing about ¼”

down from the top edge. Back stitch back up to

the top edge, and then down to the bottom of

the buckram. Back stitch at the bottom of the

buckram.

French Pleats:

To make traditional French pleats, fold big pleat into three sections, by pinching in the center.

Sew using a wide stationary zig-zag or hand tack at the base of the buckram. Allow the needle to fall off the edges of the folds to give a hand sewn look.

French pleats are classic, elegant, and

stack neatly when on a traverse rod.

There are several other choices for

pleats including goblet, Euro, Country,

and Center Tack, just to name a few.

For more detailed info on other please,

watch Pam Damour’s DVD108,

Designer Draperies

Other options can be the grommet top

drapery which can be easily achieved

using a grommet tape. The grommet tape

not only assures even placement of the

holes, it also has tabs on the back, to keep

the fullness even when the drapery is

drawn. Grommet tape can be sewn into

places or applied with Pam Damour’s

Permanent Double Stick tape. The

grommet face choices include silver,

brushed silver, brass, antiques brass, black & white.

The wavy drape tape can also be sewn on or applied with double stick tape