Culinary Americanisms

7/30/2019 Culinary Americanisms

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The American Dialect Society

Culinary AmericanismsAuthor(s): David ShulmanSource: American Speech, Vol. 34, No. 1 (Feb., 1959), pp. 26-32Published by: Duke University PressStable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/454155 .

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CULINARYAMERICANISMSDAVID SHULMANNew YorkCity

O F THE MANY WORDS that I have extracted from various sources, I haveselected a special groupwhich I designateas culinaryAmericanismsandwhich denote foods or drinks.Eitherthe quotationscited for each one antedatethe DAE (Dictionaryof AmericanEnglish), the DA (Dictionaryof American-isms), the NED (New English Dictionary), the NED Sup. (New EnglishDictionarySupplement),or else the words do not appear in any of theseauthorities.There may have been valid reasons for omitting some of these words fromthe lexicons I have consulted. If every name of a new dish or potation wereto be recorded, the list might be a formidableone. There is no limitation tothe coining.of names for new concoctions, and the numberof culinary con-coctions or recipes can be limitless. A slight change in the preparationofsome well-known sandwich,for example, may evoke various names, such as'hero sandwich,' 'Frenchdip,' and so on. Every cook or luncheonette ownermay change or addnames to his menus to suit his own taste or fancy.On one occasion, I founda restaurantfeaturingan 'EddieCantor Special.'It consisted of a roll with cream cheese and smoked salmon, which I had al-ways known as bagel and lox. Each chef may take the liberty to name arecipe after any well-knownperson, place, or ingredient. It creates, no doubt,a difficult task for the editorsof an unabridgeddictionary to decide which ofthese neologisms to include or omit. A determiningfactor, of course, is howwidely accepted they tend to become in literatureand speech.I have not attempted to present any origins or explanations for theseculinaryAmericanisms.Becauseof space restrictions, I preferto reserve suchinformation for a separatearticle. But, it is my belief that the quotationsthatfollow will enable lexicographers o arrive at more accurateetymologies anddefinitions. Take, for example,charlotteusse.If the theory holds true that itwas named after a person, such as Queen Charlotte, the wife of George III,then quotationsearlierthan hertime shouldpuncturesuch a theory. Likewise,in the term chicken la king,newspaperclippings have attributedthe dish to acertain Mr. King, of Chicago. Perhaps,Dr. Mathews, of the Chicago Uni-versity Press and editor of the Dictionaryof Americanisms,can shed morelight on the matter. However, such quotations as I have provided shouldfacilitate the research.

It is not to be takenfor grantedthat all the expressionslisted areAmerican-isms, despite the title I have selected to head this article. That is a matter offurther determination. I have merely tried to confine myself to American


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CULINARYAMERICANISMS 27literary ourcesor wordsalreadyisted as Americanismsn the works I haveconsulted.Further ffortsby myselfandotherindefatigableesearchersamongcook-books,menus,banquet eports n newspapers, nd other likely places,willdoubtlessly dd o, andimprove n, thispresenteffort.However,rather handragoutan endlessprojectof thiskind,I believe t is now fitting o offer thefollowingresults:

A LA NEWBURG (DA, 1905). 1903 Everybody's Magazine. 9: 44/i We had clambrothwith beatencreamon top ... thenlobster" la Newberg (I quotefromthe menu).ANGWITZER. I8o6 Priscilla Wakefield, Excursionsin North America. London. p. 244Everywarrior s furnishedwith somesweet meal,or angwitzer;(a compositionof parchedmaize andmaplesugar).APOQUINIMINC CAKE. 1836 Mary Randolph, The Virginia Housewife . . . Balti-more.p. 139 ApoquinimincCakes (caption).APPLE-BREAD (DAE, I865). i824 Henry C. Knight, Lettersfrom the South d West.Boston.p. 71 At breakfast,besides heirwheatenrolls, they usuallyhave,in theirseasons,apple-bread,r hominy,with a relishof honeyor herring.APPLE FOOL. 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of DomesticCookery .. New York.;d ed. p. 195 AppleFool (caption).APPLE-LEATHER (DA, I877). 1866 Hours at Home. 3: 507/2 Then, think of apple-butter,apple-leather, ndapple-jack.APPLE MARMALADE (DAE, 1832). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of DomesticCookery.. New York3d ed. p. 219 AppleMarmalade(caption).APPLE PUFF. 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery .. New York.3ded. p. x7 ApplePuffs (caption).APPLE TAPIOCA. 1879 GoldenHours. i 1: 143/1 Do you ever make any 'apple tapioca'for tea or dessert?

ATOLE (DAE, i844). 1672 William Hughes, The American Physitian. London. p. I56Atolle.Flourof IndianWheat,and watermixedtogether, o put into Chocolate.BEETROOT PUDDING. 1842 Brother Jonathan, Supplement. Jan. I. xx/2 . . . forbeforethe fun was half over his cachichenatory xertionsmadehim as red in the soul'sindexas a beetrootpudding.BLACK CAP (NED, 1822). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery... New York. 3d ed. p. zo3 Black Caps (caption).BOSTON PUDDING. 1832 Eliza Leslie, Seventy-fiveReceipts.Boston. 4th ed. p. 30BostonPudding caption).BROWN BETTY (DA, I864). 1861 American Agriculturist. 20: 373/1 Brown Betty(caption or recipe).BUTTER CREAM. 195z Marian Tracy, Coast to CoastCookery.Bloomington, Indiana.p. 296 Sour Cream.Smooth, mild, artificiallysouredcream, called buttercream in theMidwest.

CAT-FISH CHOWDER. I866 Captain Flack, A Hunter's Experiences. . . London. p.347 'Cat-fishchowder' is a dish generally recognizedand appreciated hroughout heSouthernStates.CHARLOTTE (NED, I855). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of DomesticCookery... New York.3ded. p. i62 A Charlotte(caption).CHARLOTTE RUSSE (DAE, 1856). 1843 William E. Burton,The Yankeemong heMermaids.Philadelphia. . 80. Whilst meditatingon the difference between his beloveddish in ancienttimes,thesalacaccaby,ndhis new delight,a CharlotteRusse, he receivedathumping lapon the shoulder..CHICKEN FRITTERS. 1829 W. A. Henderson, Modern Domestic Cookery... NewYork.p. 211 ChickenFritters(caption).


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z8 AMERICANSPEECHCHOW MEIN (DA, 1927). 1903 Roy L. McCardell, Conversationsof a ChorusGirl.New York.p. 142 Chawmain s good, too. That'schicken andgingerand mushrooms ndbamboo proutsandotherstuff ...CLAM CHOWDER (DA, 1836). i8zz (W. Kitchiner) The Cook'sOracle.Boston.p. 365Clam Chowder(caption).CLUB SANDWICH (DA, 1925). 1903 Roy L. McCardell, Conversationsof a ChorusGirl. New York.p. 69 'All we needis a club sandwichanda bottleof beer,isn't it?' 19r2Mary Dawson,Bookof Parties ndPastimes.New York.p. s;3A well-madeclub sandwichformsan appetizing efreshment...COFFEECAKE (DA, i885). 1879 GoldenHours. i : 326/2 Cut up the bread-ryebread,wheatbread,Grahambread,andGermancoffee-cake.CORNED BEEFAND CABBAGE.1875IsaacMast, TheGun,RodandSaddle.Phila-

delphia.p. 14 Then 'cornedbeef andcabbage.'CORN ROLL. 1836 AmericanRailroadJournal. 5: z71/3 Corn Rolls (recipe).CREAM SODA (DA, 1889). 1854 AmericanAgriculturist. Dec. zo. 233/3 A recipe hasbeensoldall over the country or making cream-soda.'CREOLEMUSTARD. 1952 MarianTracy, Coast o CoastCookery. loomington, nd.p. 294 Creole Mustard.A preparedmustard,mild in flavorbut more distinctive n tastethanthe run-of-the-mill ommercialmustards.CUMBERLANDPUDDING. 1817M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof DomesticCookery... New York.3ded. p. 154 Cumberland udding caption).DANDY FUNK. 1883William ClarkRussell,Sailors'Language.London.p. 38 Dandyfunk-A mess madeof powderedbiscuit,molasses,and slush. 19z8 CharlesG. Pierre,A Systematic reatiseof SeaTerms.Valley Cottage,N.Y. p. 57 Dandy Funk-pudding ofcrushedhardtack,molassesandslush.DELICATESSEN (DA, 1893). I877 Scribner'sMonthly. May. 46/1 ... with an additionfor wine andspiritsshipped, ndfor what the Germans all delicatessen..DEVILLEDHAM (DAE, 1897). 1873JohnLester,The Atlantic o thePacific.Boston.

p. 23 . . . with a devilledham,a devilledchicken,a devilledturkeyand all the fixings ..DEVILLEDTURKEY (DAE, devilled,1884). 1830 MaryR. Mitford,Storiesof Ameri-canLife.London.2: 262 There were tea, coffee, beef-steaks,oysters, eggs, hamandeggs,sausages, devilled turkeys ... 1873 John Lester, The Atlantic to the Pacific.Boston. p. 23

.. with a devilledham,a devilledchicken,a devilledturkeyandall the fixings ..DUCK STEW. 1887 FrancisFrancis,Saddleand Moccasin.London. p. 3tr 'Can youmakea duckstew, Colonel?' askedlaughingly ..DUMB FUNK. i928CharlesG. Pierre,A Systematic reatiseof Sea Terms.ValleyCot-

tage,N.Y. p. 56 DumbFunk-beef andpotatostew.DUNDERFUNK (DA, 1892). 1849 Around the Horn in '49. San Francisco, 1928. p. 78If mushrunslow or dundyfunk,We eat ourfill of cold salt junk...DUTCH CAKE. 1844TheKitchenCompanion.hiladelphia. /2 DutchCake (caption).DUTCH PUDDING. i8 7 M. E. Rundell,A New System f DomesticCookery.. NewYork.3ded. p. 15r DutchPudding,or Souster(caption).FLOATING ISLAND NUTS. 1875 Th&i~seYelverton,Teresinan America.London.I: 268When the gongsounds or a meal,the smallpeople .. orderthe waiterin the mostimperiousmanner o supply hemwith pumpkinpie, ice-cream,pickledcucumbers,loatingislandnuts ...GEFUELLTEFISH. 1916Jack Lait, Beef, Ironand Wine.New York. p. 7 I'd dareBillingsor anybodyelse to findany highspotsin thatcrowd of tiredhoipolloifighting ora spot to standto get theircornedbeefandcabbage,or gefuellteish ...GERMAN TOAST (cf. Frenchtoast). 1879 Courant lmanac.GermanToast (captionfor recipe).GOPHER-STEAK.1856CharlesLanman,Adventuresn the Wildsof the UnitedStates. Philadelphia. 2: 137 ... a gophar-steak, han which nothing but India-rubber can bemoretoughand elastic.


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CULINARYAMERICANISMS 29GRAHAM BISCUIT (DA, 1873). 1859 American Agriculturist. 18: 150/2 (captionfor recipe).GRAPEJELLY. 900oo ernardB. Smyth, Plants nd Flowersof Kansas.Topeka.p. 39

Crabapple ndgrapejelly need noneof it.GREASECAKE. 1853G. C. Furber, keMcCandlessnd OtherStories.Cincinnati copy-right 85sz). p. 3o0/ . . . laying the meat, already fried, out in a little pile on the ground,so as to half cook a thinsolutionof flourandwater into 'greasecakes.'HAZELNUT KISSES. i85 t Farmer'sAlmanac nd Housekeeper'seceiptBook.Phila-delphia. p. 25/2 Hazelnut Kisses (recipe).HERMITS. 90o2The Calendar lub CookBook.Bridgton,Maine. p. 27 (captionfor akind of cake.)HOREHOUND CANDY (DAE, I840). 1839 JacobAbbott, Caleb n Town.Boston.p. [23 . .. and then you go from there into the apothecary's, and ask them to give you twoouncesof hoarhoundandy...

HUCKLEBERRYCAKE. i886 Outing.7: 5ss5/ A featureof our eveningrepastwashuckleberry akes andwine jelly.INDIAN PICKLE. 18I7 M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof DomesticCookery.. NewYork.3ded. p. i86 IndianPickle (caption).INDIAN SLAP JACK. 1844 The Kitchen Directory . . .New York. p. 59 Indian SlapJacks (caption).IRISH STEW. 1834 The Housewife's Guide. . . New York. p. 23 Irish Stew (caption).JAMESCAKE. I879 Courant lmanac.(Caption or recipe.)JANGOLANGO TEA. (i844) Uncle Sam (pseudonym), Uncle Sam'sPeculiarities.London. 1: 103 . . . an he'll gib you noting but hoe cake an sassafras an jangolango tea ...JERSEYWONDERS (Kindof cake). 1857 R. K. Philp,InquireWithin... New York.p. 4z/1 Jersey Wonders.The oddity of these 'wonders'consists solely in the mannerofcookingandthe shapeconsequent.JOE BUNKER (DA, only as a nicknamefor an American). 1877 GoldenHours.9:328/2 . . . lemonade, ardines, JoeBunkers'--oh,how these things disappearbeforethisinsatiable ittle crowd.

LADY BALTIMORE CAKE (DA, 1913). 19g2 Mary Dawson, Book of Parties andPastimes.New York.p. z233For this purposea chocolatelayer cake or a Lady Baltimorecake leads.LEMON CUSTARD. I88o GoldenHours. 2z:44/1 All the class waited for the lemoncustards ...LEMON DROP (NED Sup., 1870). 1817 M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof DomesticCookery.. New York.3ded. p. 224 LemonDrops (caption).LILLIAN RUSSELL.1908 JohnMurrayandMills Miller. TheRound-Up.New York.p. z7 One nightin Chicago,one meal,a dinnerendingwith a 'LillianRussell' (peachesorapplepie coveredwith ice-cream)as dessert...LOBSTERA LA NEWBURG. 1898 NationalMagazine.8: 203/I Bateswoke up andwantedto call for lobstera la Newburg . . . and every otherdelicacy he could thinkof.LOX. 1916JackLait,Beef,Ironand Wine.New York.p. 7 I'd dareBillingsor anybodyelse to findanyhighspots n thatcrowd of tiredhoipolloi ighting or a spot to standto gettheir cornedbeefandcabbage,orgefuellteish or lachs..MACKERELSTEAK. 1859StudentndSchoolmate.: 148 We lost the 'mackerel teak'for which someof the excursionists admadeuptheir mouths.MOCK OYSTERS. 1878 GoldenHours. 1o: 510o/2 There's corn soup, is real nice; andchickensfricasseedwith corn are elegant;and corn fritters,or 'mock oysters,' as Bertiecalls them ...MOOSESTEAK. i856 CharlesLanman,Adventuresn the Wildsof theUnitedStates..Philadelphia. : 496 'Moosesteak for dinner omorrow,'saidOld Joe in great glee.MOTTO-WAFER (DAE, motto-candy, 1876). 1904 Everybody's Magazine. 11: 184/ILastcome the candiesamidstwhich arefascinatingmotto-wafers ..


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30 AMERICANSPEECHMRS. LINCOLN'S PIE. 1863MarkSeaton,Autograph etter. Beaufort,S.C. Aug. 17'I am gettingtiredof hard ack or Mrs. Linconspies as we call them . . .'MULLIGAN STEW (DA, I907). 1906 RoundTable.May 27. 162z/ 'Hereyou are ...

bring n some Mulligan.'NEW ENGLAND PANCAKE. 1817M. E. Rundell,A New System f DomesticCookeryNew York.3d ed. p. 163New-EnglandPancakes(caption).NEW ENGLAND WEDDING CAKE. 1837 (F. H. McDougall) The Housekeeper'sBook.Philadelphia. . 40oNew EnglandWeddingCake (caption).NIGGER-EYEBALL. i88o J. O. Kaler,AfterDark n Boston.Boston.p. I /I 'Ef yerdon'tlike boloney,mean'Patsey'llbuya whole lot of peanutsan'nigger-eyeballs,an'giveyer all yer kin eat.'NUGEY. I847 The AmericanJoe Miller. Philadelphia. p. z15 Wash your face, put on acleandickey, andgo andtalk as sweet as nugey,or molassescandy...ORANGE FOOL. 1817M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof DomesticCookery.. NewYork.3ded. p. 196OrangeFool (caption).OYSTER CRACKER (DA, 1879). 1873 Kansas Magazine. 3: 273/2 Our commissarydepartment was poorly supplied . . . four small oyster crackers.OYSTER PATTY (DAE, I8z8; NED, no date). I817 M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof Domestic Cookery... New York. 3d ed. p. 17o Oyster Patties (caption).PAN CREAM. 1952 Marian Tracy, Coast o CoastCookery.Bloomington, Ind. p. 295 PanCream.Thick creamskinned romthe top of freshmilk.PEACH CHIPS. 1836 Mary Randolph, The Virginia Housewife ... Baltimore. p. I56PeachChips (caption).PEACHMARMALADE.1836MaryRandolph,The VirginiaHousewife.. Baltimore.p. 156 PeachMarmalade(caption).PEMMICAN (DA, pimmecon,1791; pemmican,1824). i8o6 PriscillaWakefield,Ex-cursionsn NorthAmerica.London.p. 349 ... they pound nto pemmican, omething ikepottedmeat.PEPPERMINT DROP (DAE, 1843; NED, 1878). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New Systemof DomesticCookery .. New York. 3d ed. p. 224 Peppermint Drops (caption).PHILADELPHIA SCRAPPLE. x9 2 Mary Dawson, Bookof Parties and Pastimes. NewYork.p. 267 Philadelphia crapple menu).PILOT BISCUIT (DA, 1944). 1884 Outing. April. 4: 9/1 And, as I lay before the fire... I munched a round pilot-biscuit ... 1904 Outing. 45: 536/z . . . his two pairs ofGerman ocks andthe pilotbiscuitin his hands,completed he comicsketch. (DAE, pilot-cracker, i88o).POORBOYSANDWICH. 195z New OrleansItem.2/28 'Way back yonderwhen apoorboy sandwichwas just that--namely, a five-cent filling of bread,meat and mixedpicklesfor a poorboy ...'PORK CARTRIDGE. (I865) Civil WarHistory. March, 1958. p. 24 We sometimes gotporkcartridges .. n. 'Cartridges,'ausages.PRINCETON COLLEGEPUDDING. 1817M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof DomesticCookery.. New York.3ded. p. 153 PrincetonCollege Puddings caption).PUCHERA. 1885 Outing.March. 5: 412/1 First there was vermicelli soup; then apalatablekind of stew calledpuchera, eapedon a large platter,and composedof meat,maize,beans,carrots,gourds,anda varietyof othervegetables ..

QUAKING PUDDING. 1817M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof DomesticCookery..New York.3d ed. p. 154 QuakingPudding caption).RED BEAN. 19o3Everybody'sMagazine. : 8/I Here we met Blake, a husky youngfellow with a world of goodcheer n his make-up,who gaveus excellentbread,some well-cookedredbeans,andanapple-pie.ROAST-CORN (DA, 1848). 1842 (N. S. Dodge) Sketchesf New England.New York.p. x3The berryingparties n thedulldaysofJuly; the roast-corn rolics... furnish ourcesof enjoyment...


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CULINARYAMERICANISMS 3xRUFFLES. 1875 Th&reseYelverton, Teresina n America. London. z: 351 We were alsoable to obtain wholesomebread, n place of the fearfully doughy compoundsknown as'ruffles'and'doughnuts.'SARATOGA CHIP (DA, I88o). t88o GoldenHours. I2: 314/1 So Bert's dinner thatday consisted of. . . a Saratoga 'chip' . . .SARATOGA POTATOES (DA, Saratoga fried potatoes, 1876; DAE, 188o). 1877GoldenHours. 9: 187/2 Saratoga Potatoes (recipe).SAUCE ROBERT. 18t7 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery .. NewYork.3ded. p. 131 SauceRobart, or Rumpsor Steaks (caption).SAVANNAH RICE CAKE. 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery... New York.3ded. p. 237SavannahRice Cakes (caption).SHAD ROE. I888 All aboutAlaska.PacificCoastSteamshipCo. 54 Herringroe is tothenativeSitkanswhat he shad oe s to thedwellersontheSusquehannand he Potomac ..SHELAH. 1844 The KitchenDirectory... New York. p. 70 Shelah, or Quick Loaf Cake(caption).SHERMAN'S PIES. (i865) Civil WarHistory.March, 1958. p. z4 And oh! the rationsthat they brought,they did delightthe eyes/ Of men whose only luxurieshadlong been'Sherman'spies.'n. 'Shermanpies,'the regulationhard-bread,r 'hard-tack.'SHOE-STRING POTATOES (DA, 1931). 19r4 Christy Mathewson, Pitcher Pollock.New York.p. 298 What do you say to a chopandsomeshoe-stringpotatoesanda salad?SIX MONTHS' CAKE. 19oz The CalendarClub CookBook.Bridgton, Maine. p. i4 SixMonths'Cake (caption) .. A niceloaf of cakewhich canbe keptfor six monthsor longer.SNOW-BALLCAKE. 1902 The CalendarClub CookBook.Bridgton,Maine.p. z2 Snow-Ball Cake (caption).SNOW BREAD. 1836 American Railroad Journal. 5: 271/3 Both this and the snowbreadbakevery well in a stove.SNOWDRIFT. 1883 Grocer'sCompanion . . Boston. p. 112 The articles known asSnowdriftandSnowflakearesimplygroundPop-corn ..SNOW DRIFT CAKE. 1902 The Calendar Club Cook Book. Bridgton, Maine. p. 17Snow Drift Cake (caption).SNOWFLAKE. 1883 Grocer'sCompanion . . Boston. p. I12 The articles known asSnowdriftandSnowflakearesimplygroundPop-corn .SOFT-TACK(DA, 1890). (1865) Civil WarHistory.March, 1958.p. 24 n. 'Softtack,'any compound f flour,excepthard-tack.SOURINGS. 1856 Charles Lanman, Adventures in the Wilds of the United States . .

Philadelphia. : I37 The termsowinswe foundto be an abbreviation f sourings,which isa dishof pounded orn madesourby baking n the sun ...SOUSTER. i8t7 M. E. Rundell, A New System of DomesticCookery... New York. 3ded. p. 15r DutchPudding,or Souster(caption).SPOTTED DOG (NED Sup., 1928). 191t John Sandilands, WesternCanadianDictionary.. Winnipeg.zd ed. p. 43 Spotteddog,plumpudding. NED, no date.Also, spottedDick,1849).SPREAD (DA, i886). x866 Hours at Home. 3: 507/2 A late rebel told me that, whilewith Lee uponthe Gettysburgh ampaign,he went to a farm-house ne day and demandedsome 'spread,'as they callmarmaladen thatmatter-of-fact ountry.STRUDEL. I916 Jack Lait, Beef, Iron and Wine. New York (copyright 1915). p. 12Alec foundBillingsrollinga cigarette nto brownpaper ill it was finishedand lookedlikea strudel.

SUCCOTASH STEAK. 1875 Th&'rse Yelverton, Teresina n America. London. i: 279But shouldyou haveno inclinationor usingby gaslightto eat before sevenyour breakfastof succotashsteak . . you canremain n yourown room.SUGAR HOUSE SYRUP (DAE, x88I). 1836MaryRandolph,The VirginiaHousewife


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32 AMERICANSPEECH. . . Baltimore.p. 154The sugarshouldbe the best doublerefined;but if the pureambersugarhousesyrupfromthe West Indiescan be got, it is greatlysuperior ..T-BONESTEAK (DA, 1934). 1928 Papers.Mich.Acad. of Sciences,Arts andLetters.10: 329/x T-bone steak, tenderloin steak.TOMATO KETCHUP (NED, 1896). 183i H. L. Barnum, Family Receipts .. . Cin-cinnati. p. 39 But they mustnot forget the excellentcondiment . .under the nameof'tomatoketchup' . .TOMATO MARMALADE. 1836 Mary Randolph, The Virginia Housewife . . Balti-more.p. I62 TomatoMarmalade(caption).

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