PATCH WORK BERL N

Unstitching the Past

REVIEWS.......................................... p18 -141

INTRODUCTION........................................ p4 -5

HISTORY.......................... p6 - 9

TRANSPORT...........................................p10 - 11

SURVIVAL............................................ p12 - 17

Sights & Monuments...............................p20 - 39

Museums............................ p40 - 61

Galleries......................................... p62 - 69

Streets, Squares & Tours........................... p70 - 77

Entertainment....................... p90 - 99

Eating & Drinking..................... p100 - 125

Nightlife.....................................p126 - 133

Shopping.................................... p134 - 141

TEAM.......................................... p142 - 145

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Outdoor Spaces.................................... p78 - 89

The fabric of Berlin is woven from threads of the past and the present. A city with such a volatile history, Berlin is a cultural nexus of politically charged street art, mul-ticultural neighbourhoods and the shadow of past regimes.

“Here in Berlin, one cannot help being aware that you are the hub around which turns the wheel of history.” Martin Luther King Jr. 1964

This guide explores Berlin whilst cel-ebrating its patchwork of influenc-es. Contrasts in architecture, peo-ple, and atmosphere are palpable; something you’ll experience for yourself during your trip.

What are your expectations for your stay in Berlin? Do you think the city’s hipsters have swarmed over its historical significance? Is the his-tory of department stores, offices and stations still recognisable, or has it been forgotten?

Our team of travel writers, editors and designers lived in the city for a summer. They walked, trammed, ate and clubbed their way across Berlin to bring you a guide that will help you take a step further off the beaten track of the typical tourist sights. We’ve included the must-sees such as the TV tower and the Reichstag, as well as our person-al highlights like the Turkish Market and our favourite vintage shops. From solo travel and vegetarian eating, to 24 hours in Berlin for €20, our features will also help you see the city’s full potential. 4

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Even a short stay will reveal how Berlin’s spaces – parks, squares, monuments and cafés – are con-stantly evolving. The Berlin Wall, a symbol of division and political domination, now radiates colour as an art gallery snaking along the River Spree. The area around the Brandenburg Gate, monumental entryway for rulers throughout his-tory, plays host to a Fanmeile dur-ing important football champion-ships. 100,000 supporters can enjoy beer, a wurst and a game on a big screen. Everywhere, döners turn in windows and halloumi sizzles, fill-ing the streets with aromas of Turk-ish cuisine and reflecting the city’s prominent Turkish community.

Equipped with our book, unstitch Berlin’s past for yourself, get lost in the cultural diversity of the city and create your own history.

Schöne ferien!

Introduction

Patchwork Berlin |

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HistoryIn the 20th century alone, Berlin survived war, destruction, and division. Central to Europe and to the world, Berlin can be seen as the manifestation of global conflicts and confrontation. No longer an epicentre for trouble, Berlin has created a position of global importance that it continues to hold today. When the Berlin Wall was erected on August 13, 1961, it did more than divide families; it broke Europe into two worlds and sealed the door between them.

As a hot spot in the Cold War, the city saw the clashing of communism and capitalism within its city boundaries. The tensions that would arise over the division of the city into the Federal Republic of Germany (West Berlin) and the German Democratic Republic (East Berlin) would lead to confrontations which would almost cause nuclear war, such as the Berlin Blockade of 1948-1949 and the Berlin Crisis of 1961 at Checkpoint Charlie. The fall of the Berlin Wall in November of 1989 would do more than mark the reunification of Berlin; it would mark the

end of the “Iron Curtain” dividing Europe into two opposing ideologies and two opposing worlds. In this way, Berlin has taken on various roles of global significance throughout its history. When John F. Kennedy stood at Brandenburg Gate and declared “Ich bin ein Berliner!” (I am a Berliner), he exemplified the importance of West Berlin to the U.S.A. and the Western World. An island of capitalism in a sea of communism, West Berlin stood in direct confrontation to the Soviet Union. East Berlin, on the other hand, marked the gateway to the West for many living in the Eastern Bloc - or communist side - of Europe. As a result, Berlin came to hold much

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more significance than simply that of a capital city. It became a manifestation of the conflicts of the 20th century.Two Berlins came together on a night of tumultuous events in 1989. “Right away”, the concrete divide between families, friends, and freedoms disintegrated upon the words of SED spokesperson, Günter Schabowski.Wall-beating garden hammers and government machinery helped Berliners untangle themselves from previous boundaries; an undoing that catapulted Germany to unification in 1990. This German jigsaw has been successful in areas such as politics, but perhaps less in the social and economic fields. On the Berlin-scale, however, the redrawing of neighborhoods has brought cultures and communities together. For example, Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg, formed in 2001, is the perfect anti-capitalist, creative persona of new Berlin. It’s home to the Bundestag’s single Green MP and an annual ‘vegetable fight’ that celebrates the neighborhoods coming together. However, Berlin’s appeal, as an alternative hub for the world’s diaspora, could end up being it’s undoing as gentrification

becomes an increasingly prominent issue.Berlin has become a political nucleus to rival London and Paris. With the German voice in world affairs more certain, deals and dialogue springboard from the sparkling embassies along the Spree, yet amongst the transparency of the Reichstag’s gleaming copula, and the tahini of roti wraps on Kastanienallee, you’ll find 21st Century Berlin.

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The Berlin Wall

When the Berlin Wall fell overnight on November 9th 1989, the two halves of the city found themselves unexpectedly reunited. The 90 miles of border fortifications were swiftly removed and the city began the awkward process of growing back together. While tracing the former path of the Wall through the city today, remnants can sometimes still be seen, while in other places the former border is undetectable.

One of the most vibrant spaces once occupied by the border is Mauerpark (literally Wallpark), north of the city centre. Here, the only sign of the Wall is part of the Hinterlandmauer - a smaller wall which was part of the extended border fortifications. This stretch of graffiti-covered wall runs along behind the amphitheatre, famous for its Sunday karaoke. Just down the road from Mauerpark is Bernauer Straße, where the front of the buildings on the east side of the street formed part of the border. Today it is the location of the Berlin Wall Memorial, made up of an open-air exhibition running along the street, incorporating historical remnants of the border together with a recreated section of the death strip.

Berlin’s train stations were meticulous-ly factored into maintaining the Wall’s integrity. Next to the Berlin Wall Memo-rial is Nordbahnhof, a so-called ghost station until 1989. The division of the city complicated its public transport system. Some train lines started and ended in West Berlin but had to pass through a number of East Berlin stations along the way. The station entrances in the East were bricked up and trains would travel through without stopping while East German police patrolled the platforms. Now a functioning train station again, Nordbahnhof entrance hall features a free exhibition about ghost stations.

Throughout the city, two lines of bricks are set into the road illustrating the for-mer path of the Wall. Nowhere is this more striking than by the Brandenburg Gate, now one of the busiest tour-ist spots in the city. The Wall curved around the front of the Gate, which sat in the middle of the death strip, before continuing south towards Pots-damer Platz.

Once the heart of Berlin, the Platz became a wasteland while the city was divided. The Wall ran through the centre, next to the widest section of no-man’s-land anywhere in the city. It couldn’t look more different now, with its high rises and malls.

One large piece of the original Wall can be seen on Niederkirchnerstraße, running along the edge of the Topography of Terror exhibition, just up the road from the reconstructed border crossing at Checkpoint Charlie. However the most obvious remnant is the East Side Gallery. Famous for its murals, it’s the longest preserved section of the Wall, running along Mühlenstraße next to the river Spree. Stretching across the river is the striking Oberbaum-brücke, a red brick turreted bridge, which was blocked to vehicles and trains for and used as a pedestrian checkpoint.

While seeing actual remnants of the Wall may give a more tangible impression of what the divided city looked like, it’s equally fascinating to look at the areas where traces of the bor-der can no longer be seen. Berlin’s urban spaces are continually transforming, and have created harmony where there was once division. As you flit back and forth across the city, you’ll notice that the Wall’s presence – and in many cases, its absence – contributes to the palpability of Berlin’s status as a junction between history and modernity.

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TransportSaviour and sorrow, seated or standing, S-Bahn and U-Bahn; Berlin’s transport network is a mixed bag of emotions and no-thrill escorts. With maps and common sense, however, you’ll make it out alive.On foot, you’ll find Berliners sauntering through Kreuzberg and stomping about Hauptbahnhof. Below, the U-Bahn breaks Cold War boundaries. Above, the S-Bahn runs electrified rings. Yet trams and buses still shadow the urban fabric of East and West Berlin. Alternatively, taxis, tuk tuks, and segways will move you. Tickets cater to single trip and monthly visits – best bought for the central AB zone.

Berlin’s first overground line came about in 1902, and underground line in 1910, as a solution to traffic congestion. These lines crisscrossed geographical separations, and married communities. Whilst the First World War halted U-Bahn expansion, the Second World War mag-nified interest in a system that sheltered Berliners from air raids. The Wall then splintered a damaged train network, with border stations acquiring ‘ghost’ status. A former ghost station – Jannowitzbrucke - was the first one to be reopened as a crossing point. Such events encapsulate the role of transport in the rebirth of Ber-lin.

History

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Berlin’s history can be found in Flug (flight). Whilst Schönefeld airport acted as headquarters for the Soviet Air Force in 1946, Tegel airport lays claim to Prussian hunting ground, Versailles restrictions, and Air -Lift heroics. Ageing infrastructure and German unification propelled plans for a new international airport to replace those of East and West. Despite the ideals of modernity, “momentous” can only describe planning hiccups behind an eight-year delay. Before Brandenburg International Airport (BER) opens, Schönefeld and Tegel connect Berlin with the world.

Schönefeld Airport is 18km south-east of the city centre, and served by low cost airlines. A €3.50 ABC ticket will get you to Berlin itself.

Tegel Airport is 11km north, served by flag-carriers and long-haul airlines. A €2.70 AB ticket will get you to the city centre.

ArrivalRules and Safety:-Plain-clothed ticket officers carry out random inspections across the network. Having a valid ticket will save you the €60 fine. -Tickets not purchased from a bus driver or on-board a tram require validation. Stamp the ticket using the yellow box.

Transport Practicalities:-Tickets cover all transport types. -Train station ticket machines will only accept German credit cards.-Day Tickets are valid until 03:00 the next day. -Flag down a taxi for a 2km ride, and you’ll pay the €4 Kurzstrecke rate.-After 8pm on weekdays and at weekends, a monthly ticket will cover an additional traveller.

Destination Advice:-Key sites such as Schönefeld Airport and Potsdam lie within the C zone. -The infamous 100 and 200 bus routes make for inexpensive sight-seeing.-The S5 is also scenic, from the medieval Spandau to picturesque Strausberg.

Advice

The Bear Necessities

Currency: Euro (€)Time Zone: Central European TimeEmergency Numbers: Police dial 110, Fire and Ambulance 112. Weather Average Temp: Summer 15-26⁰, Winter -3-2⁰Electricity: Continental two round pin plug Why can’t you speak German?Berlin is brimming with many nationali-ties and tourists so you could get by just sticking to English, however the occa-sional “Bitte” or “Guten Morgen” might help your cause. Here are a few phrases to get you started:

Starting Simple:

Hello HalloPlease BitteThank you DankeGoodbye Auf Wiedersehen/

CiaoExcuse me/Sorry EntschüldigungI don’t understand Ich verstehe nichtDo you speak Eng-lish?

Sprechen Sie Eng-lisch?

Yes/No Ja/NeinI would like... Ich hätte gern…

More Serious Stuff…

Where is…?/Where are…?

(singular) Wo ist…? /(plural) Wo sind…?

Toilet die ToiletteMain train station der HauptbahnhofBar die KneipeHow much is…? Wie viel kostet…?

Two beers Zwei BiereA glass of wine ein Glas WeinTap Water das Leitungswas-

serThere is something wrong with my phone. It doesn’t have your number in it!

Ich denke mit meinem Handy stimmt etwas nicht. Es findet deine Nummer gar nicht!

SURVIVALTipping Tipping is quite easy. Just round your bill up to the next euro and give that to your waiter at the end of the meal. Sunday, Fun-day?

Otherwise known as ‘Zzzonntag’, Sun-days are the best days to unwind and relax as most places shut. Just make sure you’re stocked up on food so you’re not caught out! On weekdays, larger shops open at 8am and close between 6pm and 8pm.

Toilet TricksDon’t expect to find any public toilets around. Your best bet is to walk into any restaurant or café nearby, and (polite-ly and confidently) request to use the toilets there.

How to buy beer, get into clubs and get some bang back for your bottleThere’s no pint in denying it, Berlin is a city built on beer. No matter what time of day, whether inside or out, Berliners are imbibing. And why not? It’s legal to drink on the street and although it’s technically banned on public transport, everyone does it anyway.Spätis - late night corner shops selling buckets of beer at bargain prices - are everywhere. But with so many types of ale on offer, it can get a little bamboo-zling. This is where we can help out.

The Pilsner – Germany’s go to pale lager; perfect for all occasions and cheap. City favourites include the Ber-liner Pilsner (the green bottle with the

rampant red bear logo) and the Berliner Kindl (the oh-so-cute baby boy peering over the pint glass).In the mood for something a little dif-ferent? Try a weisse beer. These slightly darker coloured wheat concoctions tend to have a bit more bite. They will also fill you up faster.

If you see the word Hell written on your beer bottle, it’s nothing Satanic, it just means it’s pale. Meanwhile, the darker Dunkel is more malty and only has a slight hoppy bitterness.So, now you know what’s hop and what’s not, let’s get onto the next part of the night.

Clubbing is an altogether different prospect in Berlin. Instead of wear-ing your poshest frock and fancy shirt, scale it down with some vintage gear or distressed denim. Failing that, shorts, t-shirts and flip flops will do for most places, except Berghain that is. No one truly knows how to get into the famous semi-mythical techno club, but rumour has it donning black and speaking Ger-man is the way to go.

A word of warning however: don’t get too hammered before you get in any queue. Surprisingly, the bouncers don’t take friendly to those slurring, swaying, or being general buffoons.

When you come back home and see a mass of empty bottles, don’t panic, there’s money to be made. Take them back and cash in your 8¢ for every item. Bringing back the ale shall never fail!

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As chilled as ice, but as ecstat-ic as spice, Generator Hostel is the stronghold of art-craving, facility-searching, buzz-seek-ing travellers. Situated in Mitte a few metres away from Or-anienburger Tor U-Bahn, this hostel boasts a central loca-tion without too much gim-mick.

Its communal spaces ooze colour and its social areas ooze cool. Emerald-green turf carpets the historic courtyard whilst a library contains plush cushions and plentiful Wi-Fi.

One form of nightlife is sustained in the ground-floor bar, whilst the other occurs in one of many shared rooms. Sleep-ing conditions are ordinarily clean and comfortable, with en-suite bathrooms, private lockers, and bedside sockets. Events and tours are almost on-tap, whilst Hackescher Markt and Alexander-platz are within walking distance.

This is where guide-book sights meet re-alistic simplicity. It is the embodiment of

Berlin’s creative credentials. The larger-than-life abstract faces of artist Thierry Noir provide humanistic corridor décor, whilst Sebastian Preschoux’s string sculp-ture twirls between the reception and café.

The expansion of Generator’s European collection to Berlin saw the transforma-tion of two 19th century office buildings as a design-orientated endeavor. Even the hostel’s ‘G’ logo is commissioned in a crocheted sculptural form.

For sure, the stream of happy sleepers and socialites staying at Generator Hos-tel will leave with a sense of a historic reputation to rival that of Mitte itself.

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Oranienburger Str. 65, 10117, Mitte • From 20€ • 24 hours reception • generatorhostels.com/en/destinations/berlin/mitte • U Oranienburger Tor 15

Wom

bat’s City Hostel

Awake to the breaking of low expecta-tions at Wombat’s City Hostel Berlin, ide-al for its central location at Rosa-Luxem-burg Platz in sight of the TV Tower.

Wombat’s free WiFi, fresh linen, and gra-tis welcome drink make for a comforta-ble entrance to the city. Top that with views and travel chit-chat at the 7th floor ‘WomBar’.

Attention to detail prevails on all floors. Communal spirit and human ingenuity present themselves via recycled furniture and a herb garden.

Rooms range from 2 to 6 beds, with con-temporary but characterful furnishings. Bedside sockets and reading lights allow you to recharge yourself as well as your gadgets.

Keen and knowledgeable receptionists provide 24/7 assistance, whilst the hostel organizes frequent events and informa-tion on Berlin experiences.

Whenever and wherever, Wombat’s City Hostels have been saving Euro-trip-trav-ellers for 17 years, with other burrows in London and Vienna.

Accommodation

Alle Schönhauser Str. 2, 10119, Mitte • From 26€ • 24 hours re-ception • wombatshostels.com • U Rosa-Luxemburg Platz

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This is a guide on how to spend a day in Berlin, visiting the most important sights, with less than €20 in your wallet. A whole day travel ticket for zones A and B is highly recommended, since it gives you access to trams, the U-Bahn, the S-Bahn and buses for €7.

10:00 – Starting point, Alexanderplatz

⁰ Grab a pretzel and a coffee from one of the bakeries on the square (€2.5) – but don’t eat it yet!⁰ Take a look at the iconic Fernsehturm (Television Tower) ⁰ Head to the Marienkirche (St Mary’s Church), and spend 10 minutes inside to admire its early-Gothic design.⁰ Before leaving Alexanderplatz, check out the Neptunbrunnen (Neptune Foun-tain).

10:40 – Museum Island

⁰ Walk along Karl-Liebknecht Strasse to Museum Island. ⁰ Once you reach the Lust garden, sit down on the grass and enjoy your pret-zel in the shadow of the Neo-Baroque Berliner Dom . ⁰ Head left towards the museums and wander around the picturesque streets by the Altes and Pergamon Museums.

12:00 – Unter den Linden

⁰ Leave Museum Island and walk along Unter den Linden Avenue.⁰ Make a stop at the Neue Wache and then at Bebelplatz to see Humboldt University and to go inside St Hedwigs Kathedrale.

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Students do it better: A day for less than €20

12:40 – Brandenburger Tor

⁰ At the other end of Unter den Linden is the symbolic Brandenburger Tor and Pariser Platz.⁰ Turn left at Wilhelmstrasse and then right at Behrenstrasse to find the Holocaust Memori-al.⁰ Walk along the Hannah-Arandt Strasse, and then the Französische Strasse, up to Gen-darmenmarkt, a beautiful square with two cathedrals.⁰ Take the Französische Strasse U-Bahn towards Warschauer Strasse.

15:00 – Kreuzberg

⁰ Grab a Currywurst near the station (€3) and visit the East Side gallery, by the river Spree.⁰ At the other end of the gallery, take the Ostbahnhof S-Bahn towards Nordbahnhof.

17:00 – Berlin Wall Memorial

⁰ Head towards the Berlin Wall Memorial and spend an hour there learning about the wall that divided the city during the Cold War.

18:45 – Reichstag & Bundestag⁰ Take the S-Bahn from Nordbahnhof to Friedrichstrasse and walk along the river to see the Bundestag and the Reichstag (Houses of Parliament).⁰ Sit down and relax by the River Spree.⁰ If you have booked online in advance, you can visit the Reichstag Dome (free) with an impeccable view of the city.

21:00 – Hakescher Markt⁰ Take the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn towards Hackescher Markt.⁰ Head to the Monbijou Park and choose a beach bar where you can have dinner whilst enjoying a beer and the lit up Museum Island by the river (€7).

Enjoy!

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