Cruise on the Mekong river.

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From the jungles of the Land of Nine Dragons in Vietnam to the golden temples of Cambodia, the Toum Tiou voyages up the Mekong River for a one thousand kilometer journey brimming with life and vibrant cultures as diverse as the river itself. Cruise on the Mekong river. Photos ©Remi Benali Text ®Heather Robinson Contact - Thierry Tinacci - LightMediation Photo Agency +33 (0)6 61 80 57 21 [email protected]

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From the jungles of the Land of Nine Dragons in Vietnam to the golden temples of Cambodia, the Toum Tiou voyages up the Mekong River for a one thousand kilometer journey brimming with life and vibrant cultures as diverse as the river itself.

Transcript of Cruise on the Mekong river.

Page 1: Cruise on the Mekong river.

From the jungles of the Land of NineDragons in Vietnam to the goldentemples of Cambodia, the Toum Tiouvoyages up the Mekong River for aone thousand kilometer journeybrimming with life and vibrant culturesas diverse as the river itself.

Cruise on the Mekong river.Photos ©Remi Benali Text ®Heather Robinson

Contact - Thierry Tinacci - LightMediation Photo Agency +33 (0)6 61 80 57 21 [email protected]

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2304-13: At dawn, capitain Choe Kim Chea places the bo coung, a daily offering of plantains, at the prow of the Toum Teav in order to appease the spirits that live in the river. Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises theMekong River from Saigon to Angkor. It was built with exotic woods and has a colonial atmosphere. From their large windows, the 10 rooms offer a direct view on the river and its banks.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-01: Decorated for the celebrations of the Khmer New Year, the ToumTeav cruise boat arrives in the village of Kompong Tralach in Cambodia. Two young girls have thrown rice

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-02: Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises the Mekong River fromSaigon to Angkor. It was built with exotic woods and has a colonial atmosphere. From their large windows,

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-03: The capitain Choe Kim Chea at the wheel. Built in 2002, the ToumTeav cruises the Mekong River from Saigon to Angkor. It was built with exotic woods and has a colonial

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-04: Coffee served on the top deck with a view on the Mekong River.The boat flies the Vietnamese flag. It will change colors after crossing the border into Cambodia.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-05: Madame Kim, the wife of Jacques Prunier, the cruise director. Sheis wearing an Ao Dai, a traditional Vietnamese costume.

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-06: Meals are served in an open area underneath the top deck whichalso serves as a lounge and bar. Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises the Mekong River from Saigon to

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-07: Menchantha, the ship's barman concocts a "Toum Teav Kiss", hisspeciality. It is a powerful mix of gin, tequila, grenadine, and a secret ingredient. Meals are served in an

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-08: A Buddha decorates the sitting room of the lower deck, a reminderof the quiet philosophy found all along the banks of the Mekong River. Built in 2002, the Toum Teav

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2304-20: Vietnam. River traffic in the city of Cai Be.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-09: A bedroom on the lower deck level.Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises the Mekong River from Saigon to Angkor. It was built with exotic

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-10: A room with a view on the lower deck level. Built in 2002, theToum Teav cruises the Mekong River from Saigon to Angkor. It was built with exotic woods and has a

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-11: The Toum Teav as it pulls out of the port of Saigon. Built in 2002,the Toum Teav cruises the Mekong River from Saigon to Angkor. It was built with exotic woods and has a

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-12: A crewmember raises the flag of his home country after the ToumTeav crosses the border into Cambodia. Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises the Mekong River from

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-13: At dawn, capitain Choe Kim Chea places the bo coung, a dailyoffering of plantains, at the prow of the Toum Teav in order to appease the spirits that live in the river. Built

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-14: The capitain Choe Kim Chea poses on the deck with members ofhis crew.

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-15: Map of the Mekong. The cruise boat, the Toum Teav is operatedby the "Compagnie Fluviale du Mekong" and cruises the Mekong River from Saigon to Angkor. Built in

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-16: Vietnam. A woman guiding a small boat on a little canal. Theregion surrounding Cai Be is criss-crossed with hundreds of islets where the locals grow vegetables and

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2304-17: Cambodia. A fisherman sets his nets at dawn.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-17: Cambodia. A fisherman sets his nets at dawn. / Cambodia / Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-18: Vietnam. A ferry crossing the Mekong River. Women dressed inthe traditional Ao-dai costume are riding their bicycles in the distance. / Viet Nam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-19: Vietnam. Mr. Tam Ho, a farmer in the Cai Be region, poses infront of portraits of Ho Chi Minh. He is 85 years old and a veteran of the two wars for independance. / Viet

2304-20: Vietnam. River traffic in the city of Cai Be.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-21: Vietnam. Two women on their boat near the village of My Tho. /Viet Nam /

2304-22: Vietnam. River traffic near the city of Cai Be.

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-23: Vietnam. River traffic near the city of Cai Be. / Viet Nam / Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-24: Vietnam. River traffic near the city of Cai Be. / Viet Nam /

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2304-54: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnom in the center of Phnom Penh has become a popular hangout for young people during the celebrations of the Khmer New Year. They throw rice powder on each other, especiallyon each others cheeks, as a wish for good luck.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-25: Vietnam. City of Cai Be. Its floating market is one of the mostimportant in the Mekong Delta. / Viet Nam /

2304-26: Vietnam. Family bathing in the city of Cai Be.

2304-27: Vietnam. City of My Tho. Monks in the Pagoda of Eternity. 2304-28: Vietnam. Dong Tam snake farm is a medicinal plant cultivation and the study and treatment ofsnake-bite.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-29: Vietnam. A brick factory on the banks of the Mekong River. / VietNam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-30: Vietnam. A brick factory on the banks of the Mekong River. / VietNam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-31: Vietnam. The market of Vanh Long. A mother and her daughterare dressed in the traditional Ao Dai costume. / Viet Nam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-32: Vietnam. Market of Vanh Long. / Viet Nam /

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2304-44: Vietnam. A fisherman pulls in his nets. The Mekong has always been considered a key source of subsistance for its population, however, dams that have been built along the upper reaches of the Mekong inChina are gravely threatening the possibility for fish to migrate and reproduce.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-33: Vietnam. A pig that has been bought to be used as an offering atthe temples at the base of Mount Sam. / Viet Nam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-34: Vietnam. Market of Vanh Long. / Viet Nam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-35: Vietnam. In the city of Sadec, a French lesson is being given inthe former school of author Marguerite Duras. / Viet Nam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-36: Vietnam. City of Sadec. The Kien An Cung temple, where one canfind an altar honring the Chinese businessman that inspired "The Lover" by author Marguerite Duras. / Viet

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2304-37: Vietnam. City of Sadec. The Kien An Cung temple, where one can find an altar honring theChinese businessman that inspired "The Lover" by author Marguerite Duras.

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-38: Vietnam. City of Sadec. The Kien An Cung temple, where one canfind an altar honring the Chinese businessman that inspired "The Lover" by author Marguerite Duras. /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-39: Vietnam. City of Sadec. A family taking their daily bath along thebanks of the Mekong River. The dragon boat is used in ceremonies to transport the deceased. / Viet Nam

2304-40:

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2304-43: A wave of belief and incense blurs the lines between Buddhism, Confucianism, and Ancestor Worship, a trait which is unique to Vietnam. Mount Sam (Nui Sam) is one the holiest places in the Mekong Delta. Itis said that the goddess Chua Xu appeared here in the beginning of the 19th century. An important pilgrammage takes place here each year in June.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-41: A child heading off to school near the city of Chau Doc in Vietnam./ Viet Nam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-42: Mount Sam (Nui Sam) is one the holiest places in the MekongDelta. It is said that the goddess Chua Xu appeared here in the beginning of the 19th century. An

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-43: A wave of belief and incense blurs the lines between Buddhism,Confucianism, and Ancestor Worship, a trait which is unique to Vietnam. Mount Sam (Nui Sam) is one the

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-44: Vietnam. A fisherman pulls in his nets. The Mekong has alwaysbeen considered a key source of subsistance for its population, however, dams that have been built along

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-45: Vietnam. Rice fields along the bords of the Mekong River. / VietNam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-46: Farmer in a lotus field in Vietnam / Vietnam /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-47: Cambodia. A shepherd crosses the Mekong with his herd of cattle./ Cambodia /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-48: Cambodia. Kho Dac Cho Island. A farmer cuts wood in thetraditional manner. / Cambodia /

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2304-60: A village on the banks of the Mekong River in Cambodia.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-49: Cambodia. Kho Dac Cho Island. Children praying during thecelebrations for the Khmer New Year. / Cambodia /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-50: Cambodia. The Royal Palace of Phnom Penh. Its spires rise 59meters above the banks of the Mekong River. The king lives in one of the wings of the palace. / Cambodia

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-51: Cambodia. The Tuol Svay Prey High School in the suburbs ofPhnom Penh was transformed into one of the most notorious detention centers during the Khmer Rouge

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-52: Cambodia. A Buddhist nun prays at the temple of Wat Phnom. /Cambodia / Phnom Penh

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-53: Cambodia. According to the legend, the Mekong River washed uponto its banks 4 Buddha statues made out of gold onto the site that now holds the Wat Phnom in the

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-54: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnom in the center of Phnom Penh hasbecome a popular hangout for young people during the celebrations of the Khmer New Year. They throw

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-55: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnom in the center of Phnom Penhhas become a popular hangout for young people during the celebrations of the Khmer New Year. They

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-56: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnom in the center of Phnom Penh hasbecome a popular hangout for young people during the celebrations of the Khmer New Year. They throw

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2304-27: Vietnam. City of My Tho. Monks in the Pagoda of Eternity.

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-57: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnom in the center of Phnom Penh hasbecome a popular hangout for young people during the celebrations of the Khmer New Year. They throw

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-58: Pagoda of Kompong Tralach. Built in 1910, it was used as adistillery for rice-wine by the Khmer Rouges, before being restored as a holy site. / /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-59: A young monk in front of the pagoda of Kompong Tralach. Built in1910, it was used as a distillery for rice-wine by the Khmer Rouges, before being restored as a holy site. /

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-60: A village on the banks of the Mekong River in Cambodia. /Cambodia /

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Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-61: Floting village on the Tonle Sap Lake, which is the largest reserveof freshwater in South-east Asia. During the torrential rains of the monsoon season, the Tonle Sap River

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-62: Children in front of an painting depicting Angkor Wat in thePagoda of Kompong Tralach. Built in 1910, it was used as a distillery for rice-wine by the Khmer Rouges,

Cruise on the Mekong River / 2304-63: A fisherman on the Mekong River in Cambodia / Cambodia /

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2304-16: Vietnam. A woman guiding a small boat on a little canal. The region surrounding Cai Be is criss-crossed with hundreds of islets where the locals grow vegetables and fruits. Travelling by boat remains the bestmeans of transportation.

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Cruise on theMekong river.

"The celebration for the New Year shouldhave been over days ago, but they are stilldancing!" The young monk has to shout tobe heard over the thumping bass of thestereo. He gestures to a group of youngCambodians jumping up and down in timeto a Khmer version of "Hey Sexy Lady" byShaggy, making the dust rise in the air infront of the local pagoda. They don't getmany visitors in Kampong Tralach and themonk has lots of questions to ask, savethat he keeps getting interrupted by aband of shrieking children who want toslap rice powder on my cheek for goodluck. The heat is overwhelming, but therains are coming soon--a part of what thecelebrations for the Lunar New Year areall about. The music changes to atraditional song, and the young men fallback into the surrounding crowds, leavingthe girls to dance the ram uung. As theirparents watch with pride, they bend andglide, transforming into the apsaras, orheavenly nymphs, that grace the templewalls at Angkor. It is a glimpse ofsomething eternal, but soon it is time togo--bumping back down a dirt road in anoxcart built for one, past parched andscraggly rice fields to the comfort of ourcruise boat on the Mekong River.

We first discover the Toum Teav in Saigon(as everyone still calls it) at the new port;its wooden hull sandwiched in betweenthe rusty steel mountains of 70-tontankers. In a city that is in a race toembrace its future, here, at last, is anelegant hint of its colonial past. The crew,young men with deep-set eyes, is lined up

against the railing, shifting on their feetfrom side to side to see who the newguests would be. Serge Prunier, the chefd'aboard, welcomes us and assigns us ourcabins. Each of which is like sleeping onthe inside of an Asian lacquered box linedin teakwood. Stripes of shutters block outthe glare of a noonday sun that tries toreach in at us with skinny fingers throughthe open slats. Like every well-thought outboat, the smart storage system allows usto get our luggage quickly out of sight toclaim the space as "home". As if on cue,the Captain blows the deep bellow of thehorn and we are off, pulling out into thenon-stop flow of the maritime traffic.

And what traffic it is. Soon we breach theroiling cocoa waters of the Mekong River.The thousands of vehicles that surgethrough Saigon are now replaced withtheir nautical equivalents--from the tiniestsampan, rowed by iron women who steerwith their feet, to the jackhammer-enginedfishing boats that shake the walls of theToum Teav as they pass. The sense ofmovement is continuous, both on and offthe boat, due to a densely packedprogram insisted upon by Saigontourist(its non-negotiable nature one of the rarereminders that we are in a Communistcountry). At times, the sublime and theridiculous are experienced in rapidsuccession; such as the day that our visitto the deeply peaceful "Eternity Pagoda"in Mytho is followed by an inexplicabletraipse through the repellant Dong Tamsnake farm. At Sa Dec, we gingerly stepthrough the playgrounds of the colonialschool where Marguerite Duras attended,as tiny pig-tailed girls sneak peeks at usduring their studies. Across town at theKien An Cung Temple, a guardian placesfreshly cut flowers on the altar honoringthe Chinese businessman who was thebasis for Duras' "The Lover". We are

surprised to find a photo of a chubby,balding, sad-faced man and not theromantic hero one might imagine.

Beneath the clatter and clang of businessbeing done, such as at the floating marketof Cai Be, are layers of the not-so-distantpast. On Phoenix Island, a kitschwonderland dedicated to the memory ofOng Dao Dua, the pacifist "Coconut monk"(so named for his eating habits), we arejoined by two American veterans. Withbeer in one hand and a cigarette in theother, they wander silently around the siteand whatever thoughts they have aboutthis man who wanted to unite the northand south of Vietnam through peace theykeep to themselves. Far more exuberantis Mr.Tam Hô, who welcomes us at hisgarden nursery with round after round ofrice wine and a resounding "Yo!" At 85, heswears that it is the wine that keeps himstrong. "Former soldier against theFrench," our guide, Mr. Feung, whispersto us as Mr. Ho poses comically in front ofthe portraits of the leader that he bares anuncanny resemblance to, Ho Chi Minh.Ah. Well, now he just wants to party. AsMr. Feung had already explained "Thepast is the past. Now people just want tomove on, think about the future."

And, each evening we have a littlecelebration of our own, as the guestsgather to talk about the day's events overcocktails while a quiet bossa nova playsbehind the bar. Pungent plates of calamaricurry decked with anise stars appearbefore just us as the moon risesoverhead. The world around us fallsblissfully silent until 5am, when it starts allover again. By 6am, the banks of theMekong are already teeming with life. Wesip our deliciously bitter coffee on theupper deck as the state-sponsored "news"is broadcast over loudspeakers. The

Toum Teav surges forward, matched bylong lines of young women in flowing whiteao dai bicycling to school, past metalshacks perched on bamboo stilts likepetrified octopus. Occasionally, we passgroups of workers in the rice fields, whorise momentarily, like divers coming up forair, to watch us pass. All along the way tothe border, we are met with the cries of"Hello! Hello!" accompanied by the distantblur of a child's small waving hand.

"You've never seen anything like it," Sergehad promised us a few days ago. "Assoon as we cross the frontier, everythingchanges." True to his word, we leavebehind the yellow concrete bunker of theVietnamese checkpoint and pull up to itsCambodian counter-point, a pink pagodastyle building set around a garden andbedecked with a sign saying "welcome" inbig letters. Twenty or so houses aregathered around the border control andthen...nothing. The other boats havesimply evaporated and we have theMekong to ourselves. On land, beepingscooters are replaced with grazing cows.We wander past a series of pagodas, theirgold wedding-cake style edifices glinting inthe sun. The first droning prayers for theLunar New Year waft out to us over thewaters. The fellow guests look somewhatshocked to find ourselves magicallytransported into a seemingly fairy-talekingdom after the chaos of Vietnam.

By the time we reach Phnom Penh, thecelebrations are in full swing. We leavethe Toum Teav for a few days to explorethe monuments to the cities past gloriesand atrocities amidst the water bombsthrown by laughing teenagers in thestreets. But it is all done with good humor.The openhearted kindness of TheravadaBuddhism follows us throughoutCambodia. Already, on the seldom-visited

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Kôh Dek Chou Island, we had beenswarmed by the entire community andwelcomed into the midst of theircelebrations. The pagoda hummed withprayers and discussion, and a group ofelderly women guided me by the hand togive my respects to Buddha. A gentlemannamed Tuy Wan came to speak with us inhalting French that he hadn't used in 30years, since the rise of the Khmer Rouge.His left eye, clouded with age, coveredany signs of sadness and regret, and hesent us on our way with warm wishes forhealth and happiness. We were allreluctant to leave, and remained gatheredon the prow of the boat as it pulled away,waving at the group of 20 or so childrenwho had come to see us off.

It was a feeling that would rise again onour last morning on the boat. At dawn,Captain Choe Kim Chea, placed the BoCoung, his daily offering of a bowl ofplantains, on the prow to appease anymalignant genies in the river so that wemay finish our journey safely. Our boatcan go no further, held back by themeter-deep waters of the Mekong duringthis, the height of the dry season. Sergeand the crew again line up, this time tosay their good-byes. And then we are off,surging forward in a speedboat like aracehorse out of the starting gate at aspeed that we haven't felt since theSaigon. We leave the Toum Teav behind,an island in the Mekong. But our voyage isnot over. We hurtle across the massiveTonlè Sap Lake towards Siem Reap andseveral days worth of basking in the gloryof the temples of Angkor. "It is heart ofCambodia," Men Chantha, the trustybarman had promised us the night before.

"You will see." Many experiences still lieahead of us, for though the celebrationsmay finally be over, a New Year has justbegun.

Who controls the Mekong?The Mekong has always been thelifesource of Southeast Asia, but is thatabout to change? According to theMekong River Commission, amulti-national governmental body createdto monitor the health of the river, waterlevels at are at their lowest in recordedhistory, an event which is greatly reducingthe capability of fish to spawn or migrate.Several environmental NGO's say thatChina is largely to blame. Two massivehydroelectric dams on the upper Mekongare already in operation, and a third isscheduled for completion by 2010. Eightfurther Chinese dams are in the planning,but that is not all. Over 100 different dams,diversions or irrigation projects arecurrently being proposed as now everycountry along the Mekong wants to profitfrom its potential to gain big dollars inelectricity exports. Thousands of peoplehave already been displaced due to theseprojects. With their food sources andwelfare threatened, will a war over waterbe their next step for survival?

The long shadows of S-21From a distance, the Tuol Svay Prey HighSchool looks the same as any of thebuildings in this slightly run-down suburbof Phnom Penh. Little in the appearanceindicates that it was home to the largestcenter of detention and torture under theKhmer Rouge regime. Between 1975 and1978, over ten thousand prisoners (plusan additional 2000 children) were held andkilled at Security Office 21, or S-21, as itbecame known. At the peak of the killingfrenzy, S-21 produced 100 victims a day.Only seven prisoners were still alive when

the Vietnamese Army evacuated thefacility in 1979. Like the Nazis, the KhmerRouge documented the arrival of each ofthe prisoners with black and whitephotographs. Today these hauntingimages are presented in the former cellsas part of the Tuol Sleng Museum, whichalso explains the torture methods used. Avisit here is a harrowing, unforgettableexperience, and yet crucial inunderstanding this decisive period ofCambodian history.

The moving lake and an undecided riverAfter the wonders of Angkor, the TonléSap Lake could easily qualify as a nationalsymbol for most Cambodians. It is alsocalled "the Great Lake", as, for part of theyear, it is the largest freshwater lake inSouth East Asia. During the dry seasonthe lake is fairly small, around one meterdeep and with an area of 2,700 squarekm. After the monsoon rains, however, theTonlé Sap River, which connects the lakewith the Mekong, reverses its flow andruns uphill. From June, the lake increasesits area tenfold, covering one seventh ofCambodia's landmass. Its flooding ofnearby fields provides a perfect breedingground for fish and makes the Tonlé Sapecosystem one of the most productiveinland fisheries in the world, providingmore than 60% of the protein intake forthe Cambodian population. This uniquehydrological phenomenon was designatedas an UNESCO biosphere in 1997.

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Captions.

2304-01: Decorated for the celebrations ofthe Khmer New Year, the Toum Teavcruise boat arrives in the village ofKompong Tralach in Cambodia. Twoyoung girls have thrown rice powder ateach other as a sign of good luck. Anapsara, or celestial nymph, that is sculptedin stone on an ancient gate to the villageseems to welcome the boat. Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises theMekong River from Saigon to Angkor. Itwas built with exotic woods and has acolonial atmosphere. From their largewindows, the 10 rooms offer a direct viewon the river and its banks.

2304-02: Built in 2002, the Toum Teavcruises the Mekong River from Saigon toAngkor. It was built with exotic woods andhas a colonial atmosphere. From theirlarge windows, the 10 rooms offer a directview on the river and its banks.

2304-03: The capitain Choe Kim Chea atthe wheel. Built in 2002, the Toum Teavcruises the Mekong River from Saigon toAngkor. It was built with exotic woods andhas a colonial atmosphere. From theirlarge windows, the 10 rooms offer a directview on the river and its banks.

2304-04: Coffee served on the top deckwith a view on the Mekong River. The boatflies the Vietnamese flag. It will changecolors after crossing the border intoCambodia. Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises theMekong River from Saigon to Angkor. Itwas built with exotic woods and has acolonial atmosphere. From their largewindows, the 10 rooms offer a direct viewon the river and its banks.

2304-05: Madame Kim, the wife ofJacques Prunier, the cruise director. Sheis wearing an Ao Dai, a traditionalVietnamese costume.Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises theMekong River from Saigon to Angkor. Itwas built with exotic woods and has acolonial atmosphere. From their largewindows, the 10 rooms offer a direct viewon the river and its banks.

2304-06: Meals are served in an openarea underneath the top deck which alsoserves as a lounge and bar. Built in 2002,the Toum Teav cruises the Mekong Riverfrom Saigon to Angkor. It was built withexotic woods and has a colonialatmosphere. From their large windows,the 10 rooms offer a direct view on theriver and its banks.

2304-07: Menchantha, the ship's barmanconcocts a "Toum Teav Kiss", hisspeciality. It is a powerful mix of gin,tequila, grenadine, and a secretingredient. Meals are served in an openarea underneath the top deck which alsoserves as a lounge and bar. Built in 2002,the Toum Teav cruises the Mekong Riverfrom Saigon to Angkor. It was built withexotic woods and has a colonialatmosphere. From their large windows,the 10 rooms offer a direct view on theriver and its banks.

2304-08: A Buddha decorates the sittingroom of the lower deck, a reminder of thequiet philosophy found all along the banksof the Mekong River. Built in 2002, theToum Teav cruises the Mekong River fromSaigon to Angkor. It was built with exoticwoods and has a colonial atmosphere.From their large windows, the 10 roomsoffer a direct view on the river and itsbanks.

2304-09: A bedroom on the lower decklevel.Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises theMekong River from Saigon to Angkor. Itwas built with exotic woods and has acolonial atmosphere. From their largewindows, the 10 rooms offer a direct viewon the river and its banks.

2304-10: A room with a view on the lowerdeck level. Built in 2002, the Toum Teavcruises the Mekong River from Saigon toAngkor. It was built with exotic woods andhas a colonial atmosphere. From theirlarge windows, the 10 rooms offer a directview on the river and its banks.

2304-11: The Toum Teav as it pulls out ofthe port of Saigon. Built in 2002, the ToumTeav cruises the Mekong River fromSaigon to Angkor. It was built with exoticwoods and has a colonial atmosphere.From their large windows, the 10 roomsoffer a direct view on the river and itsbanks.

2304-12: A crewmember raises the flag ofhis home country after the Toum Teavcrosses the border into Cambodia. Built in2002, the Toum Teav cruises the MekongRiver from Saigon to Angkor. It was builtwith exotic woods and has a colonialatmosphere. From their large windows,the 10 rooms offer a direct view on theriver and its banks.

2304-13: At dawn, capitain Choe KimChea places the bo coung, a daily offeringof plantains, at the prow of the Toum Teavin order to appease the spirits that live inthe river. Built in 2002, the Toum Teavcruises the Mekong River from Saigon toAngkor. It was built with exotic woods andhas a colonial atmosphere. From theirlarge windows, the 10 rooms offer a direct

view on the river and its banks.

2304-14: The capitain Choe Kim Cheaposes on the deck with members of hiscrew.Built in 2002, the Toum Teav cruises theMekong River from Saigon to Angkor. Itwas built with exotic woods and has acolonial atmosphere. From their largewindows, the 10 rooms offer a direct viewon the river and its banks.

2304-15: Map of the Mekong. The cruiseboat, the Toum Teav is operated by the"Compagnie Fluviale du Mekong" andcruises the Mekong River from Saigon toAngkor. Built in 2002 with exotic woods,the boat retains a colonial atmosphere.From their large windows, the 10 roomsoffer a direct view on the river and itsbanks.

2304-16: Vietnam. A woman guiding asmall boat on a little canal. The regionsurrounding Cai Be is criss-crossed withhundreds of islets where the locals growvegetables and fruits. Travelling by boatremains the best means of transportation.

2304-17: Cambodia. A fisherman sets hisnets at dawn.

2304-18: Vietnam. A ferry crossing theMekong River. Women dressed in thetraditional Ao-dai costume are riding theirbicycles in the distance.

2304-19: Vietnam. Mr. Tam Ho, a farmerin the Cai Be region, poses in front ofportraits of Ho Chi Minh. He is 85 yearsold and a veteran of the two wars forindependance.

2304-20: Vietnam. River traffic in the cityof Cai Be.

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2304-21: Vietnam. Two women on theirboat near the village of My Tho.

2304-22: Vietnam. River traffic near thecity of Cai Be.

2304-23: Vietnam. River traffic near thecity of Cai Be.

2304-24: Vietnam. River traffic near thecity of Cai Be.

2304-25: Vietnam. City of Cai Be. Itsfloating market is one of the mostimportant in the Mekong Delta.

2304-26: Vietnam. Family bathing in thecity of Cai Be.

2304-27: Vietnam. City of My Tho. Monksin the Pagoda of Eternity.

2304-28: Vietnam. Dong Tam snake farmis a medicinal plant cultivation and thestudy and treatment of snake-bite.

2304-29: Vietnam. A brick factory on thebanks of the Mekong River.

2304-30: Vietnam. A brick factory on thebanks of the Mekong River.

2304-31: Vietnam. The market of VanhLong. A mother and her daughter aredressed in the traditional Ao Dai costume.

2304-32: Vietnam. Market of Vanh Long.

2304-33: Vietnam. A pig that has beenbought to be used as an offering at thetemples at the base of Mount Sam.

2304-34: Vietnam. Market of Vanh Long.

2304-35: Vietnam. In the city of Sadec, aFrench lesson is being given in the formerschool of author Marguerite Duras.

2304-36: Vietnam. City of Sadec. TheKien An Cung temple, where one can findan altar honring the Chinese businessmanthat inspired "The Lover" by authorMarguerite Duras.

2304-37: Vietnam. City of Sadec. TheKien An Cung temple, where one can findan altar honring the Chinese businessmanthat inspired "The Lover" by authorMarguerite Duras.

2304-38: Vietnam. City of Sadec. TheKien An Cung temple, where one can findan altar honring the Chinese businessmanthat inspired "The Lover" by authorMarguerite Duras.

2304-39: Vietnam. City of Sadec. A familytaking their daily bath along the banks ofthe Mekong River. The dragon boat isused in ceremonies to transport thedeceased.

2304-41: A child heading off to schoolnear the city of Chau Doc in Vietnam.

2304-42: Mount Sam (Nui Sam) is one theholiest places in the Mekong Delta. It issaid that the goddess Chua Xu appearedhere in the beginning of the 19th century.An important pilgrammage takes placehere each year in June.

2304-43: A wave of belief and incenseblurs the lines between Buddhism,Confucianism, and Ancestor Worship, atrait which is unique to Vietnam. MountSam (Nui Sam) is one the holiest places inthe Mekong Delta. It is said that the

goddess Chua Xu appeared here in thebeginning of the 19th century. Animportant pilgrammage takes place hereeach year in June.

2304-44: Vietnam. A fisherman pulls in hisnets. The Mekong has always beenconsidered a key source of subsistancefor its population, however, dams thathave been built along the upper reachesof the Mekong in China are gravelythreatening the possibility for fish tomigrate and reproduce.

2304-45: Vietnam. Rice fields along thebords of the Mekong River.

2304-46: Farmer in a lotus field in Vietnam

2304-47: Cambodia. A shepherd crossesthe Mekong with his herd of cattle.

2304-48: Cambodia. Kho Dac Cho Island.A farmer cuts wood in the traditionalmanner.

2304-49: Cambodia. Kho Dac Cho Island.Children praying during the celebrationsfor the Khmer New Year.

2304-50: Cambodia. The Royal Palace ofPhnom Penh. Its spires rise 59 metersabove the banks of the Mekong River. Theking lives in one of the wings of thepalace.

2304-51: Cambodia. The Tuol Svay PreyHigh School in the suburbs of PhnomPenh was transformed into one of themost notorious detention centers duringthe Khmer Rouge regime. Between 1975and 1978, more than 12,000 prisonerswere assasinated here. Today, it is usedas a museum about the genocide.

2304-52: Cambodia. A Buddhist nun prays

at the temple of Wat Phnom.

2304-53: Cambodia. According to thelegend, the Mekong River washed up ontoits banks 4 Buddha statues made out ofgold onto the site that now holds the WatPhnom in the center of Phnom Penh. Thistemple, dating from the 15th century,continues to draw pilgrims who come hereto pray for luck and good fortune.

2304-54: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnomin the center of Phnom Penh has becomea popular hangout for young people duringthe celebrations of the Khmer New Year.They throw rice powder on each other,especially on each others cheeks, as awish for good luck.

2304-55: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnomin the center of Phnom Penh has becomea popular hangout for young people duringthe celebrations of the Khmer New Year.They throw rice powder on each other,especially on each others cheeks, as awish for good luck.

2304-56: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnomin the center of Phnom Penh has becomea popular hangout for young people duringthe celebrations of the Khmer New Year.They throw rice powder on each other,especially on each others cheeks, as awish for good luck.

2304-57: Cambodia, the hill at Wat Phnomin the center of Phnom Penh has becomea popular hangout for young people duringthe celebrations of the Khmer New Year.They throw water on passing cars,motorcycles and pedestrians to wish themgood luck.

2304-58: Pagoda of Kompong Tralach.Built in 1910, it was used as a distillery forrice-wine by the Khmer Rouges, before

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being restored as a holy site.

2304-59: A young monk in front of thepagoda of Kompong Tralach. Built in1910, it was used as a distillery forrice-wine by the Khmer Rouges, beforebeing restored as a holy site.

2304-60: A village on the banks of theMekong River in Cambodia.

2304-61: Floting village on the Tonle SapLake, which is the largest reserve offreshwater in South-east Asia. During thetorrential rains of the monsoon season,the Tonle Sap River reverses its flow. Thelake then grows to 10 times its originalsize. This unique hydrologicalphenomenon has been designated as aBiosphere Reserve by UNESCO.

2304-62: Children in front of an paintingdepicting Angkor Wat in the Pagoda ofKompong Tralach. Built in 1910, it wasused as a distillery for rice-wine by theKhmer Rouges, before being restored asa holy site.

2304-63: A fisherman on the MekongRiver in Cambodia