Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen

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Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen Growing Berries in Minnesota

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Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen. Growing Berries in Minnesota. The Six Most Important Things to Remember. Proper Site Selection For the plant – Full sun Protection from wind On a slope? Good soil drainage - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Transcript of Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen

Page 1: Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen

Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka CountyEva Knudsen

Growing Berries in Minnesota

Page 2: Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen

The Six Most Important Things to Remember

Proper Site SelectionFor the plant –

Full sunProtection from windOn a slope?Good soil drainageWhat was growing there

before?What is growing around

area?

For you, the gardener – Close to a water sourceeasy access

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The Six Most Important Things to RememberProper Site PreparationDo a soil test

Obtain proper pH

Add soil nutrients according to test results

Make sure area is weed free

Plant certified disease-free plants

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The Six Most Important Things to Remember

Proper Watering

Avoid overhead watering

Put soaker hose in place before planting under mulch

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The Six Most Important Things to Remember

Good Air CirculationGood air flow decreases the chance of

diseases and insects

Proper pruning and thinning of plants increases air flow

Keeping areas weed free increase air flow

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The Six Most Important Things to RememberGood SanitationMany diseases and

insects harbor in plant material and debris

Prune out diseased or injured plants

Remove over ripe fruit as often and quickly as possible

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The Six Most Important Things to RememberMulch Covers diseases

that can overwinter in the soil or debris on the ground

Holds soil moisture Helps keep soil at

a constant temperature

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Why Blueberries?

'North Sky' blueberry, photo by: David Hansen

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Soil for BlueberriesSoil pH is the most limiting

factor

Optimum pH is 4.0-5.0 (have a soil test)

Sandy-Sandy loam soils can be modified by mixing 4-6 inches of acid peat into the upper 6-8 inches of soil

Elemental sulfur can be added to acidify the soil but requires at least 1 yr. for the pH to adjust.

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Planting a Blueberry BushPlanting too deep or

not deep enough may cause root damage

Set plants at the same depth they were in the container for the best results.

Mulch

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Fertilization and Cultivation of BlueberriesDo not cultivate deeper than 2

inchesMulch 2-4 inches deep and 1-2 feet

around each bushFor new plants; apply nitrogen as a

sidedressing when the second flush of growth starts

For older plants; apply nitrogen in the spring

Plants on very sandy soils benefit from a split nitrogen application; half in the spring and the other half at petal fall

Do not fertilize after July

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Pruning BlueberriesPrune off flower buds and

weak, spindly growth on new plants for the first 2 yrs after planting

Prune mature plants in late winter (before buds swell) cutting out diseased and dead wood, branches 5 yrs. or older each year

Pruning cuts should be made at ground level or to a low growing lateral branch, allowing 1-3 new braches to develop each year

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Cultivar Yield potential

Hardiness Berry size Flavor Firmness Plant size

Season

Chippewa High Excellent Med-large

Sweet Good 4.5 x 4 Mid

Northblue High Excellent Large Tart Fair 3 x 4 Mid

Polaris** Med-High Very good

Med Sweet, aromatic

Exc 4 x 4 Early

Northland High Very good

Med Mild Good 4 x 4 Mid

St. Cloud** Med - High

Very good

Med Sweet Good 5 x 4 Early

Northcountry Med Very good

Small Lowbush - mild

Poor 2.5 x 4 Early

Northsky Low Very good

Small Lowbush - sweet

Poor 2 x 3

Characteristics of Blueberry Cultivars for Minnesota

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Harvesting BlueberriesHarvest season is 2-5

weeksThe underside of the

berry will turn from pink to blue when fully ripe

Pick only fully ripe blue berries

Pick only when dry and keep handling to a minimum

Cool berries promptly and store at temps between 32-40 degrees F.

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Winter ProtectionWinter injury can occur at -

25 degrees F. if the plant is not protected

Blueberries are susceptible to sunscald injury in late winter

If snow cover is less than 12 inches, other protection is needed

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Pest Management for BlueberriesBlueberries can successfully be grown

without pesticides

Good sanitation and air circulation thru proper pruning is most important

The most important thing to avoid pest problems starts with proper site selection and preparation

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Strawberries

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Strawberries VarietiesJunebearing

strawberries produce fruit from early June through late July and are generally overwintered

Junebearing plants set

flower buds in the fall of the year prior to fruiting when the day is relatively short, about 12 hours

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Strawberries VarietiesEverbearing strawberries

produce two to three harvests of fruit intermittently during the spring, summer and fall and do not send out many runners.

Day Neutral strawberries produce fruit throughout the growing season. These strawberries also produce few runners.

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Planting Strawberries A well-drained loam or

sandy loam soil is best to maintain plant vigor and reduce disease problems.

Strawberries require full sunlight

Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil with pH 5.3-6.5

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Growing Junebearing StrawberriesThe main planting system used for

Junebearing cultivars is the matted row

Set the plants 1½ to 2½ feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart

Let the runners develop until the row is 1 to 1½ feet wide. This system allows for easier weed control, easier harvest, less fruit rot, and fewer foliage diseases than other systems.

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Growing Day-Neutral StrawberriesPlant day-neutral cultivars in the same

way, or on a 6-to 8-inch raised bed. The raised bed provides higher spring soil temperatures and better drainage, allowing faster establishment and earlier cropping.

Photo credit:Dave Hansen

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Fertilizing StrawberriesBefore planting have a soil test done

Fertilize early each spring before the plants produce flowers.

For June-bearing types, you may choose to spread another fertilizer application after they have finished producing fruit for the season. (During restoration is the best)

DO NOT fertilize the plants during flowering or fruit production as your berries will be softer, of poorer quality, and will not keep well.

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Renovating June-Bearing StrawberriesAfter harvest is completed mow

off the foliage using a standard lawnmower, taking care not to damage the crowns of the plants

After 1-2 weeks, rototill or hoe the rows so they are only half their original width

Thru renovating, June-bearing strawberries should be completely replaced every 3-5 years for maximum productivity.

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Everbearing StrawberriesRunners are normally

removed as they appear, especially if the "hill" system is used.

For maximum productivity, replace the planting every three years.

Day-neutral strawberries should also be replaced every 3 years.

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Strawberries: Covered and UncoveredWinter mulch protects strawberry buds from freezing

and should be left on as late as possible in spring to keep plants from coming out of dormancy and growing too early,

One sign that the cover should be removed immediately is if the strawberry leaves begin to turn yellow. Even then you can leave a light mulch on the plants if that yellowing occurs quite early in the season. This provides some protection from cold temperatures.

When you remove straw mulch, keep it between the rows of plants. That way it will be relatively easy to cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.

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STRAWBERRY GRAY MOLD

Occurs frequently

Photo by Plant Disease Clinic

,

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STRAWBERRY STRAWBERRY LEAF SPOT / SCORCH LEAF SPOT / SCORCH

.

Photo by Chad Behrendt

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Most Common Insect Pests of StrawberriesTarnished Plant Bugs

Picnic Beetles

Strawberry Root Weevil

Slugs

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Tarnished Plant Bug Damage

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Raspberries

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RaspberriesThe main types which can be grown in the

home garden are red, yellow, black, and purple.

Raspberries can be grown successfully in most areas of Minnesota.

Raspberries have perennial roots and crowns but canes live for only two summers.

Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties. During the first year, the new canes grow vegetatively. The canes overwinter and during the second growing season the second year canes produces fruit and then die.

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Where Should You Plant RaspberriesGrow raspberries in an

area that has good air circulation, water drainage and full sunlight.

Protect plants from windy sites as wind can induce excessive drying and cane injury.

Any well-drained soil is satisfactory for growing raspberries. Additional water will be needed on a sandy soil.

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Training RaspberriesAll raspberries benefit

from some type of support system

The simplest trellis system uses single or double wires or twine. Place posts about every 10 to 12 feet. Place the canes between the wires and tie them loosely to the wire. The wires can be tied every 2 feet to prevent spreading.

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Pruning Summer-bearing Red and Yellow Raspberries Cut and dispose of all canes

immediately after they bear fruit. (during dry weather)

At this time you should thin out new shoots so only three or four of the sturdiest canes remain per foot of row.

In the spring the fruiting canes should be cut back slightly. Never cut back more than one-fourth (25%) the total height of the cane.

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Pruning Fall-bearing Raspberries For a fall crop, cut all canes off at the base

before growth begins in spring.

Fall-bearing raspberries (also called Ever-bearing) are able to initiate flowers during the first year. During the second year, they can produce a summer crop on the same canes

For a fall and summer crop, thin the canes as described for summer-bearing raspberries. The canes that produced the fall crop should not be removed as they will produce fruit the following summer. Prune them back in spring to the last visible node that had fruit.

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Pruning Black and Purple Raspberries Black and most purple raspberries produce new canes

only from the buds at the base of the year old canes. These clumps or "hills" remain in the original planting location.

When new canes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching

After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level

Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches to 12 - 18 inches. Select 4 to 5 canes per hill and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.

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Blackberries in Minnesota?Black raspberries are hard to fruit reliably

year after year in zone 4.

The UofM is working in cooperation with the large blackberry breeding program at the University of Arkansas. U of A has developed a first year cane-fruiting blackberry, which means it fruits on the first year growth.

They anticipate at least 5 years of field trials until they're confident in their results and certain the crowns won't die out.

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Stop the Spread of Raspberry DiseasesCultural practices can

limit the spread of diseases Destroy wild or abandoned

brambles near the gardenAfter harvest, remove and

destroy canes that have fruited, are diseased, or are weak

Improve air circulation by proper thinning and pruning and by controlling weeds

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Viruses on Raspberry

Raspberries are susceptible to a number of viruses but are hard to diagnose and can be easily confused with herbicide damage

Consult an expert if you think your plants are infected

Photo: F. D. McElroy

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'Redlake' currant Photo credit: Dave Hansen

Gooseberries

•Elderberries

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METHODS OF PREPARATION

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Jams and JelliesJams and jellies have a very high

sugar content.

The sugar binds with the liquid present making it difficult for microorganisms to grow.

To prevent surface contamination after the product is made and thus possible yeast or mold growth, jams and jellies are either canned, frozen or refrigerated.

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Canning Jams, Marmalades and PreservesWithout Added Pectin

Jams, conserves, and marmalades; made without added pectin require longer cooking and have a slightly different flavor from those with added pectin. They also yield a less finished product.

The product is done when the temperature reaches 220° - 222° F.

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Canning Jams, Marmalades and PreservesWith Added Pectin

Be sure to carefully follow the directions accompanying the pectin product. The order of combining ingredients depends on the type of pectin used.

Successful preparation of pectin-added jams, marmalades, and conserves depends on accurate timing. Begin counting time when the mixture reaches a full rolling boil-one that cannot be stirred down.

There is a third method for preparing jams; it does not require cooking the fruit-this product must be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.

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Note. Jelly jars with paraffin are no longer recommended. An incomplete seal with paraffin and the absence of a heat treatment may result in mold growth and toxin production in the jelly. Persons continuing to use the paraffin, and no water bath method, should be aware of the potential health risk.

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A research study conducted at the University of Minnesota demonstrated that heat processing jelly for 5 to 15 minutes had no harmful effect on the products. Those tested included ones made with liquid and powdered pectin, as well as traditional no-pectin-added ones. In addition, the heat processing gives a better seal, and destroys mold that may be present on the top surface of the product.

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SugarSugar helps in gel formation,

contributes flavor to the jelly, and at the concentration of 55 percent by weight, serves as a preservative.

Corn syrup or honey can replace part of the sugar in jelly recipes. If too much honey or corn syrup is substituted, the flavor of the fruit may be lost or lessened.

Aspartame (Equal/NutraSweet*) cannot be substituted for sugar in recipes that require heating

Page 52: Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen

Freezing FruitFreezing, when properly done, is the method

of food preservation which may potentially preserve the greatest quantity of nutrients

Fruits—Most frozen fruits maintain high quality for 8 to 12 months. Unsweetened fruits lose quality faster than those packed in sugar or sugar syrups.

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Drying or Dehydrating Fruit

Drying removes most of the moisture from foods.

Microorganisms cannot grow and enzyme action is slowed down.

Dried foods should be stored in airtight containers to prevent moisture from rehydrating the products and allowing microbial growth.

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Questions?