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COSMETOLOGY

PROFESSIONAL COURSE

Module 22

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22. Module 22: Hair extensions

Table of Contents

22. Module 22: Hair extensions.................................................................................................................................... 1

22.1 Extensions .......................................................................................................................................... 2

22.2 Practical application of extensions: ..................................................................................................... 3

22.3 Removable or Clip Extensions: ........................................................................................................... 4

22.4 Keratin Extensions .............................................................................................................................. 7

22.5 Micro ring Extensions ........................................................................................................................ 10

22.6 How to apply micro ring extensions: .................................................................................................. 12

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22.1 Extensions

Practical application of extensions

Removable or Clip Extensions

Video: Clip Extensions

Keratin Extensions

Video: How to apply Keratin Extensions

Video: How to remove Keratin Extensions

Micro Ring Extensions

Video: How to apply micro ring extensions

Video: How to remove micro ring extensions

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22.2 Practical application of extensions:

Hair extensions are a wonderful resource to use for a quick and reversible change of image.

You can extend the hair length or make it lusher by adding extra strands. You can illuminate with different

colours without stripping colour or altering the natural colour of the hair.

In works of fashion, photography and performances you can use extensions to create unique looks or

fantastical characters.

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Extensions are also a quick and safe way to change the texture of hair. In the case of women with afro hair,

they’re used to achieve straight hair without damaging the client’s own hair.

On the market, you’ll find extensions made from natural or synthetic hair. Natural hair can be dyed and

moulded, but not artificial hair.

22.3 Removable or Clip Extensions:

Normally, you buy these extensions in a hair curtain, cut them to size and sew the clips on using a thread

colour to match the hair.

On the market, you’ll also find extensions with clips already cut and sewn in.

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Advantages:

This type of extension is easy to put on and remove.

No need for professional application.

Positioning is instant.

More economical than other types of extension.

How to position clip extensions:

Firstly, make a parting in a straight line at the neck.

Open the clips on the extension layer that you are placing.

Attach to the hair root and close the clips, always starting with the centre.

One trick to apply them on straight hair without slipping is to make a braid to engage the clips.

Make a new parting.

Open the clips on the next strip of hair, which is longer than the first.

Attach to the hair root and close the clips, always starting at the centre.

The number of strips of hair depends on the effect you want to create and the size of the client's

head.

Finally, style the hair according to your client’s choice.

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Instructions

Usually, hair extensions match the colour of the natural hair. They are sewn on using thread that

also matches the hair and cut to the desired length.

You can also find extensions with clips already cut and sewn in.

Firstly, make a straight parting close to the neck.

Open the clips on the extension layer that you’re applying.

Place on the roots of the hair and close the clips, always starting at the centre.

One trick when applying extensions to straight, sleek hair is to make a small braid to engage the

clips.

Make a new parting.

Open the clips on the next strip of hair which is longer than the first.

Attach to the hair roots and close the clips, always starting at the centre.

The number of strips of hair depends on the effect you want to create and the size of the client's

head.

To finish, style the hair as your client wants.

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22.4 Keratin Extensions

Up to recently, this was the most used type of extension, but gradually it’s being replaced by less invasive

techniques.

Advantages:

They are placed one by one and allow very natural movement of hair.

They are almost imperceptible.

They can be applied to give length, volume and highlights.

You can do almost all types of hairstyles with them.

They can be applied in various or mixed colours to create a rich effect.

Disadvantages:

Professional application takes two hours.

You need to invest in the specific tools.

They need more care than usual. When washing the hair, they should always be detangled with

conditioner or styling cream.

Every care should be taken when washing and styling: avoid hot water and, if straightening, don’t

touch the iron over the joint.

They need retouching every month.

They are expensive and must be applied with the correct grade of keratin; low cost keratin

damages the hair.

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Application Kit:

Extension glue iron.

Protective disc.

Keratin Extension

Bulldog or butterfly clips for sectioning.

Solvent for removing extensions.

Pliers.

Before starting work, the hair must be clean, dry and free of conditioners.

Applying Keratin Extensions:

Gather all the hair and make sections, allowing the hair at the contour of the neck and face to be loose.

Separate a lock of hair the same thickness as the extension that you’re applying and fix the protector disc at

the root with a clip to avoid burning the scalp.

It’s important to always remember the person you’re working on - exercise caution at all times to prevent

burns and pulls.

Place the keratin strand to surround the natural hair, at approximately an inch from the hair root.

Heat the keratin with the glue iron.

If using a heat clamp, seal the ends of the extension and press. The join will be flat.

If using the classic iron, heat the keratin and use your fingers to mould the joint.

When you finish a layer of hair, take another and repeat the action.

On a head, you can put 60 to 200 extensions, depending on the amount of hair and head size of your client.

The top and bottom layer of hair need to be left free of extensions to prevent joints being visible.

Finally, style your client’s hair and advice on the care and maintenance of extensions.

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Instructions

Before starting work the hair must be clean, dry and free of conditioners.

Gather all the hair, make partings and allow the hair at the contour of the neck and face to be loose.

Separate a lock of the same thickness as the extension that you’re placing and fix the protector at the root with

a tweezers to avoid burning the scalp.

It’s important that you always remember the person you’re working on, and to exercise caution at all times to

prevent burns and tugging.

Place the strand of keratin to surround the natural hair at approximately an inch from the hair root.

Heat the keratin with the welder.

When using a welding clamp, seal the ends of the extension and press. The joint will be flat.

If you’re using a classic welder, heat the keratin round the joint with your fingers.

When you finish one layer of hair, move to another and repeat the action.

On one head you can put 60 to 200 extensions, depending on the amount of hair and your client’s head size.

Keep the top and bottom layer of hair free of extensions so joints are not visible.

Finally, advise your client on the care and maintenance of hair extensions.

How to remove Keratin Extensions:

When your customer wants to remove keratin extensions, recommend that she consult you and

not try removal herself.

Firstly, brush the hair to detangle and avoid pulling.

Make the same partings you made to place the extensions.

Apply a few drops of specific solvent for keratin.

With the aid of pliers, press repeatedly on the joint.

The keratin will loosen and dissolve.

Gently strip off the extension.

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Instructions

When your customer wants to remove keratin extensions, recommend that she consult you and

not to try removal herself.

Firstly, brush the hair to detangle and avoid pulling.

Make the same partings you made to attach the extensions.

Apply a few drops of specific keratin solvent.

With the help of welding pliers, press repeatedly.

The keratin will start to loosen and dissolve.

Gently, pull the extension off.

22.5 Micro ring Extensions

These extensions are growing more popular daily, thanks to their price, quick installation and easy

maintenance.

They can be applied in a hair curtain or lock by lock if you want a more natural effect or to mix

colours.

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Advantages:

They don’t damage your hair.

Can be applied without using hot iron.

Very quick placement.

Maximum volume.

Natural hair movement.

Competitive price.

Very inexpensive home kit.

Disadvantages:

Not recommended for those with very short hair, as the micro rings can be noticeable.

Not recommended for people with very fine hair because the ring can slide.

Not recommended for people with hair that’s undergone chemical processes in recent days.

Kit for applying micro ring extensions:

A curtain of hair.

Rings to match hair colour.

Pliers.

A specific needle for applying rings.

Latex glue.

Bulldog clips for sectioning.

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22.6 How to apply micro ring extensions:

Firstly, make a parting in a straight line at the neck.

Select an extension curtain.

Adhere to your client’s hair.

Once secured, with the help of the needle, select a lock of hair from the head, lift over the curtain

and join with the ring.

Place the clip approximately an inch from the root and press together with pliers, joining the hair

strands.

Repeat the process as many times as necessary so that the curtain is securely fixed.

Instructions

To do this, you’ll need:

A weft of hair.

Staples the colour of the hair.

Pliers.

A specific needle for applying clips.

And latex glue.

Firstly, make a straight parting at the neck.

Select an extension weft.

Place the weft on your client’s hair.

Once secured, with the help of the needle, lift a strand of hair from the scalp over the extension

and join with a staple.

Place the staple at approximately one inch from the root and clamp with the pliers, creating one

hair strand.

Repeat the process as many times as necessary so that the weft is securely fixed.

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How to remove micro ring extensions

When the hair grows, the hair curtain will drop and needs to be removed.

You can reuse the same curtain of hair as long as it hasn’t been spoiled.

Steps:

Make the same partings you did for application, to see clearly the roots.

With the help of pliers, press the sides of the ring to open.

This will loosen the hair extension so you can remove it.

Repeat this action to remove the whole curtain.

Once removed, you can replace the extension again.

Instructions

1. When the hair grows, the hair weft will drop and needs to be removed.

2. You can reuse the same weft of hair as long as it hasn’t been damaged.

3. Removing stapled extensions:

4. Part the hair in the same places as when applying so you clearly see the roots.

5. With the help of the pliers, press the sides of the staple to open it.

6. This allows you to release and remove it.

7. Repeat until the weft is free to detach.

8. Once removed, you can re-attach the weft.