Copy of Cookers Service Manual

CATEGORY SECTION/COMPONENT

Gas 0 Flame

Gas 1 Oven Gas Heating Elements

Gas 2

Gas 3 Gas Leak

Gas 3 Gas Valve

Electrical 4 Ignition



Electrical 5 Fan

Electrical 5 Turnspit

Electrical 6 Induction hob

Electrical 7 Signal Lamp

Electrical 7 Hot Surface(Residual Heat) Indicator

Electrical 8 Timer

Electrical 8 Timer

Electrical 9 Oven Light

Electrical 9 Oven Light

Mechanical 10 Hinge

Mechanical 10 Hinge

Mechanical 10 Knobs

Electrical 11 Hob Electrical Heating Elements

Electrical 11 Hob Hilight Heating Elements

Electrical 15 Hilight Heating Elements

Electrical 12 Cooking Electrical 12 Cooking

Electrical 13 Oven Electrical Heating Elements

Electrical 13 Oven Elc. Heating Elements

Electrical 14 Hob Heating Elements

Mechanical HandleTransport Side panels (freestanding cooker)Transport Side panels (built-in cooker)Transport Warmer Drawers and railsTransport Fixed and flap Drawers Mechanical Wire& Catalytic ShelvesMechanical Tip-over bracketTransport SEE: Front & rear plinthTransport Oven doorTransport Cooktop ( gas )Transport Cooktop ( electrical )Transport Cooktop ( ceramic )Transport Front PanelTransport Rear panel

VESTEL COOKING APPLIANCES SERVICE MANUAL

SEE PAGE:

Flame Failure Device ( FFD ) Problems

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FREE-STANDING

PROBLEM(S)GAS GAS&ELC ELECTRIC

Hob burners :Noisy burning /Sooting/ Yellow tip X X

Oven/Grill burner not working/fading X X

Oven / Hob FFD not working X X X X X

Gas Leak from Collector X X

Gas valve stucking X X

Ignitor not turning on/off X X

Ignitor button not working X X

Ignitor not flaming X X

Fan not working/noisy/ hitting its cover X X X X

Turnspit motor not working X X X X

Hob doesnt work / Induction hob display errors

Signal lamp not working / blinking X X X X

Residual Heat Indicator not working X

Digital Timer not working/Timer buttons stucking X X X X X

Timer circuit stays open / closed X X X X X

Oven light not turning on/off X X X X X

Oven light button not working X X X X XX X

Oven/Hob Hinge noisy X X

Knob stays locked/broken/loose/knob gasket loose X X X X X

Hotplate(s) doesnt work X X

Highlight heaters doesnt work X X

Touch control display errors

Unhomogenious cooking/ Long cooking period X X X X X

Appliance doesnt work at all X X X X X

Top/Bottom/Grill Heating Element not working X X X X

Ring (Circular) Heating Element not working X X X X

Regulator(s) doesnt work X X X

Oven door handle loose/broken X X X X X

Damaged ( how to change ) X X X X

Damaged ( how to change )



Damaged ( how to change )

Oven turning over



Damaged ( how to change ) X X

Damaged ( how to change ) X

Damaged ( how to change ) X X



VESTEL COOKING APPLIANCES SERVICE MANUAL

BUILT-IN OVEN

CERAMIC

Cooktop lid angle less than 90°/more than 100°

BUILT-IN SETS GAS HOBS

4GAS

X X X

X X X X XX X XX X XX X XX X XX X X

X XX X

X XX XX XX XX XX X

X X XX X X

X X X X X X XX X XX X X X

XX XX X X X X X X XX XX X

X X XX X

X XXX

XX X

X X X XX X XX X X

X X XX X X

ELECTRIC HOBS

CERAMIC HOBS

INDUCTION HOBS

SINGLE OVEN+HOB

COMBINED OVEN+HOB

3GAS 1ELC.

GAS-ON-GLASS

J2

evrimi: oven and hob can work seperate from each other

K2

evrimi: hob control knobs are on the oven. The hob can not be used single, without the oven.

Gas component problems

Flame Problems ( HOBS )

REPLACE THE BURNER BODY, BURNER HEAD AND BURNER CAPS.

BE SURE THEY ARE CO-CENTRIC.

CORRECT THEIR POSITION. ALSO CHECK THAT : THE TOP SURFACE OF THE PAN SUPPORTS SHOULD

REMAIN 16-20 mm HIGH FROM THE BURNER PORTS.

IF THE PAN SUPPORT IS TOO CLOSE TO THE BURNERS OR IF THEY ARE DISTORTED, REPLACE THEM WITH

NEW ONES.

NO

USE CORRECT GAS/PRESSURE COUPLE WITH THE APPLIANCE.

PERFORM A GAS CONVERSION IF NECESSARY. REFER TO "GAS CONVERSIONS" IN USER MANUAL

IS THE GAS TYPE / PRESSURE SUITABLE AS SHOWN ON THE RATING PLATE OF THE APPLIANCE?

DO THE INJECTORS CONFORM GAS/PRESSURE VALUES INDICATED IN THE TABLE IN THE USER MANUAL?

CHANGE THE INJECTORS WITH CORRECT ONES. ALSO , ADJUST THE FLAMES IN THE MINIMUM

POSITION FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE.

YES

NO

ARE THE BURNER HEADS AND BURNER CAPS MISPLACED?

YES

ARE THE PAN SUPPORTS INCORRECTLY PLACED / DISTORTED?

NO

YES

ARE THE INJECTOR HOLES PARTIALLY/FULLY COVERED WITH DEBRIS, SPILLED FOOD ETC.?

YES

CHANGE THE INJECTORS ( SEE BELOW ) DO NOT TRY TO CLEAN THEM.

( WHILE CHANGING THE INJECTOR , PAY ATTENTION THAT THE EXCESS OF THE DEBRIS DOES NOT FALL

INTO THE BURNER CUP HOLE. )

NO

HOB BURNERS PROBLEMS :

NO

IS THE APPLIANCE INSTALLED AS INSTRUCTED IN THE USER MANUAL?

REINSTALL THE APPLIANCE ( AS INDICATED IN USER MANUAL )

THE CREEPS AND CLEARANCES IN THE USER MANUAL STATE THE OPTIMUM DISTANCES REQUIRED FOR THE

SAFETY AND PERFORMANCE OF THE APPLIANCE.

NO

YES

IS THE APPLIANCE OPERATING IN A DUST ENVIRONMENT?

NO

IS THE VENTILATION INSUFFICIENT?

YESDUST IN THE SURROUNDING AREA MAY RESULT IN

SOOTING. THE BURNERS REQUIRE FRESH AIR FOR OPERATING.

YES

VENTILATION MUST BE IMPROVED TO ENSURE SAFE OPERATION.

NO

IS THE APPLIANCE OPERATING IN AN ENVIRONMENT WHERE IT IS SUBJECTED TO

AIR CURRENTS STRONGER THAN 1m/s?

YES THIS APPLIANCE IS DESIGNED FOR NON-PROFESSIONAL INDOOR USE.

AIR CURRENTS STRONGER THAN 1m/s WILL RESULT IN INSTABILITY OF THE FLAMES.

HOW TO CHANGE HOB INJECTORS : You will need a 7mm wrench and a cross-tip (X) screwdriver.

1- Remove the pan supports, burner cap and burner head.2- Unscrew the injectors with the wrench.

3- Screw the injectors from spare set to the relevant burners. 4- Replace the pan supports.

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REPLACE THE BURNER BODY, BURNER HEAD AND BURNER CAPS.

BE SURE THEY ARE CO-CENTRIC.

CORRECT THEIR POSITION. ALSO CHECK THAT : THE TOP SURFACE OF THE PAN SUPPORTS SHOULD

REMAIN 16-20 mm HIGH FROM THE BURNER PORTS.

IF THE PAN SUPPORT IS TOO CLOSE TO THE BURNERS OR IF THEY ARE DISTORTED, REPLACE THEM WITH

NEW ONES.

USE CORRECT GAS/PRESSURE COUPLE WITH THE APPLIANCE.

PERFORM A GAS CONVERSION IF NECESSARY. REFER TO "GAS CONVERSIONS" IN USER MANUAL

CHANGE THE INJECTORS WITH CORRECT ONES. ALSO , ADJUST THE FLAMES IN THE MINIMUM

POSITION FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE.

CHANGE THE INJECTORS ( SEE BELOW ) DO NOT TRY TO CLEAN THEM.

( WHILE CHANGING THE INJECTOR , PAY ATTENTION THAT THE EXCESS OF THE DEBRIS DOES NOT FALL

INTO THE BURNER CUP HOLE. )

REINSTALL THE APPLIANCE ( AS INDICATED IN USER MANUAL )

THE CREEPS AND CLEARANCES IN THE USER MANUAL STATE THE OPTIMUM DISTANCES REQUIRED FOR THE

SAFETY AND PERFORMANCE OF THE APPLIANCE.

DUST IN THE SURROUNDING AREA MAY RESULT IN SOOTING.

THE BURNERS REQUIRE FRESH AIR FOR OPERATING.

VENTILATION MUST BE IMPROVED TO ENSURE SAFE OPERATION.

THIS APPLIANCE IS DESIGNED FOR NON-PROFESSIONAL INDOOR USE.

AIR CURRENTS STRONGER THAN 1m/s WILL RESULT IN INSTABILITY OF THE FLAMES.

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Flame Problems ( OVEN )

USE CORRECT GAS/PRESSURE COUPLE WITH THE APPLIANCE. PERFORM A GAS CONVERSION IF NECESSARY.

REFER TO "GAS CONVERSIONS" IN THE USER MANUAL

IS THE GAS TYPE / PRESSURE SUITABLE AS SHOWN ON THE RATING PLATE OF THE APPLIANCE?

ARE THE INJECTORS CONFORMING GAS/PRESSURE INDICATED IN THE TABLE IN THE USER MANUAL?

CHANGE THE INJECTORS WITH CORRECT ONES. ALSO , ADJUST THE FLAMES IN THE MINIMUM POSITION FOR

MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE.

YES

NO

IS THE OVEN EXHAUST FLUE BLOCKED?YES

NO

ARE THE HOLES ON THE BURNER CRADLE BLOCKED WITH EXCESSIVE NUMBER OF PANS

ETC. STORED IN THE WARMING DRAWER?

YES THE HOLES SUPPLY THE FRESH AIR REQUIRED FOR THE OVEN BURNER. THERE MUST BE A GAP OF AIR UNDER THE BURNER CRADLE FOR SAFE

OPERATION OF THE BURNER.

IS THE VENTURI OPENING ON THE REAR PART OF THE BURNER BLOCKED WITH MATERIALS -SUCH

AS INSULATION, CABLES, DIRT ETC?

NO

YESREMOVE ANYTHING THAT BLOCKS THE VENTURI.

NO

Oven Gas Grill Burner fading :

NOOPEN THE DOOR IN THE CORRECT POSITION.

DOES IT SOLVE ?IS THE OVEN DOOR IN CORRECT POSITION

FOR GRILLING ( OVEN DOOR MUST BE OPEN 15° ANGLE TO THE VERTICAL ) ?

IS THE GRILL HEAT COVER MOUNTED UNDER FRONT PANEL BEFORE GRILLING ?

REPLACE THE GRILL HEAT COVER IN THE CORRECT POSITION ( DOOR OPENED15° ANGLE WITH VERTICAL )

YES

YES

CHECK THE FFD DEVICE IS WORKING ?

NO

NO

NO

Gas grill fading when you take off

your hand from the button

Gas grill fading some time later PLEASE REFER TO

FFD PROBLEMS CHAPTER

SEE : CHANGING OVEN BURNER INJECTORS

SEE : CHANGING GRILL BURNER INJECTORS

PLEASE REFER TO FFD PROBLEMS CHAPTER

CHECK THE FLAME STABILITY AND QUALITY :IS THE GAS TYPE / PRESSURE SUITABLE AS

SHOWN ON THE RATING PLATE OF THE APPLIANCE?

USE CORRECT GAS/PRESSURE COUPLE WITH THE APPLIANCE. OR CHANGE THE INJECTORS WITH THE

ONES SUPPLIED IN THE SPARE SET

YES

YES

NO

CHECK IF THE GRILL BURNER DEFECTIVE :

CORRECT ! !!! FAULTY

IF THE ASSEMBLY OF THE OVEN THERMOCOUPLE IS NOT CORRECT ; PLEASE REASSEMBLE.

REMOVE ANYTHING THAT BLOCKS THE FLUE FROM OPERATING.

IS THE VENTURI OPENING ON THE REAR PART OF THE BURNER BLOCKED WITH MATERIALS -SUCH

AS INSULATION, CABLES, DIRT ETC?

REMOVE ANYTHING THAT BLOCKS THE VENTURI.

ARE THE INJECTOR HOLES/BURNER PORTS PARTIALLY/COMPLETELY BLOCKED BY DEBRIS,

SPILLED FOOD ETC?YES

NO

CHANGE THE OVEN BURNER INJECTORS OR CLEAN THE BURNER PORTS.

IF YOU OBSERVE RUST ON THE BURNER BODY, REPLACE THE BURNER WITH A NEW ONE.

CORRECT WRONG

CHECK THE REAR PART OF THE VENTURI IN CONTACT WITH THE INJECTOR HOLDER? (WE

ADVISE YOU TO CHECK WITH A SMALL MIRROR)

NO

YES

IF WRONG CONNECTION ; CHANGE THE GRILL BURNER

IS THE BURNER ASSEMBLY BRACKET ALIGNED WITH THE TOP PART OF THE CAVITY?

THERE ARE TWO HOLES ON THE TOP OF CAVITY. FOR GRILL BURNER ASSEMBLY.; THE REAR HOLE

IS THE CORRECT ONE.

FRONT

CORRECT

WRONG

NO

YES

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Thermocouple ( FFD ) not working

FOR THERMOSTATIC OVENS, THE NUT SHOULD NOT BE FIXED

NEITHER TOO FAST NOR TOO LOOSE. FOR BEST CONNECTION, SCREW THE NUT AS HARD AS YOU CAN WITH YOUR HAND, AND

SCREW AN ADDITIONAL 1/4 TURN WITH THE WRENCH.

YES

FOR NON-THERMOSTATIC OVENS, THE FAST-ON TERMINAL SHOULD BE PROPERLY ATTACHED TO THE VALVE. THE EARTH

LINE OF THE THERMOCOUPLE (BARE BRASS WIRE) SHOULD BE SCREWED TO ANY SUITABLE PLACE ON THE CHASIS.

THE HOB THERMOCOUPLES SHOULD BE PROPERLY ATTACHED TO THE VALVE BY COAXIAL CONNECTION

YES

Put a silicon washer inside of the knob which you see ignition problem. You can use one of the below parts. You can order them as a spare part. 42058220 –KNOB FEED GASKET (SHORT)42058221 – KNOB FEED GASKET (LONG)

WHEN YOU TAKE OFF THE KNOB AND PRESS THE SPINDLE WITH YOUR HAND, DOES THE FFD

OPERATE CORRECTLY?

IS THE SURFACE OF THERMOCOUPLE COVERED WITH DEBRIS OR SPILLED FOOD?

CLEAN THE SURFACE OF THE THERMOCOUPLE. OR CHANGE THERMOCOUPLE

NO

YES

OPEN THE COOKTOP. IS THERE A PROBLEM WITH THE CONNECTION OF

THE THERMOCOUPLE?

NO

YES

ARE THE THERMOCOUPLES ATTACHED TO THEIR CORRESPONDING VALVES?

NO

NO

FOR THERMOSTATIC OVENS, THE COPPER TUBE OF THERMOCOUPLE SHOULD NOT BE BENT SHARPLY.

THE ISOLATION ON THE WIRE OF THE THERMOCOUPLE SHOULD NOT BE STRIPPED ALONG ITS LENGTH.

IS THERE WISIBLE DAMAGE ON THE WIRES OF THE THERMOCOUPLE?

EACH THERMOCOUPLE SHOULD BE ASSEMBLED TO ITS BURNER VALVE.

(E.G. WHEN THE AUXILLIARY BURNER THERMOCOUPLE IS ATTACHED TO RAPID BURNER VALVE, BOTH AUX. AND RAPID

BURNERS WILL NOT OPERATE.)

CHANGE THE THERMOCOUPLE

WHEN YOU CHANGE THE THERMOCOUPLE AND APPLY FLAME EXTERNALLY, DOES THE

THERMOCOUPLE OPERATE CORRECTLY?

YES

CHANGE GAS VALVES ( FOR FREESTANDING COOKERS )

NO

YES

REPEAT THE SAME PROCEDURE BY ASSEMBLING THE THERMOCOUPLE TO THE BURNER. CHANGE THE OVEN BURNER

NOT OKEY

FOR OVEN FFD

FOR HOB !

CHANGE GAS VALVES ( FOR HOBS )

CHANGE THE GRILL BURNER

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GAS LEAK

CHANGE THE MANIFOLD ( FOR FREESTANDING COOKERS )

NO

CHANGE THE VALVE.DO NOT TRY TO RE-ASSEMBLE THE VALVE ! (THE GAS

VALVES HAVE NO SERVICEABLE COMPONENTS INSIDE)

IF YOU OBSERVE BUBBLES ON THE VALVE OR BURNER CONNECTION NUTS ; APPLY SOME TORQUE ON THE NUTS TO FIX THEM (NOT MORE THAN 1/2 TURNS).

NO

REPLACE THE GAS CONNECTION EQUIPMENT WITH THE CORRECT ONES. ( NEVER ATTEMPT A CONNECTION EQUIPMENT OLDER THAN 2 YEARS )

REFER TO THE "GAS CONNECTION" CHAPTER IN USER MANUALTO LEARN YOUR LOCAL REQUIREMENTS, CONTACT YOUR LOCAL GAS

DEALER.

ARE THE GAS CONNECTION EQUIPMENT IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE NATIONAL AND LEGAL

REQUIREMENTS?

CHECK THE GAS DELIVERY TUBE WITH SOAP WATER

CHANGE THE GAS CONNECTION COMPONENTS (NUTS/PIPES/SEALS)

YES

YES

OPEN THE COOKTOP WHEN YOU APPLY SOAP WATER ON THE

MANIFOLD BODY DO YOU OBSERVE BUBBLES?

NO

YES

WHEN YOU APPLY SOAP WATER ON THE GAS VALVES, DO YOU OBSERVE BUBBLES ON/BELOW

THE VALVE?

NO

YES

WHEN YOU APPLY SOAP WATER ON THE ALUMINUM GAS DELIVERY PIPES, DO YOU

OBSERVE BUBBLES? (ESPECIALLY ON THE VALVE AND BURNER END OF THE PIPE)

YES

IF YOU OBSERVE THE BUBBLE ON THE PIPE ITSELF ; CHANGE THE GAS DELIVERY PIPE.

APPLY SOAP ON BUBBLES AROUND THE BOTTOM PART OF THE INJECTOR.

TURN ON THE VALVE AND BLOCK THE INJECTOR WITH YOUR FINGER.

NO

IF YOU SEE BUBBLES AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THE INJECTOR ; FASTEN THE INJECTOR OR CHANGE IT WITH A NEW ONE

DO YOU OBSERVE BUBBLES ON THE TUBE OR ON THE APPLIANCE/GAS NETWORK END OF THE TUBE?

SEE : CHANGING GAS DELIVERY TUBES FOR OVEN

SEE : CHANGING GAS DELIVERY TUBES FOR HOB

CHANGE THE MANIFOLD ( FOR HOBS )

SEE : HOW TO CHANGE GAS VALVES FOR OVEN

SEE : HOW TO CHANGE GAS VALVES FOR HOB

SEE : CHANGING GAS DELIVERY TUBES FOR OVEN

SEE : CHANGING GAS DELIVERY TUBES FOR HOB

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NOTE: BEFORE REFERRING TO IGNITION PROBLEMS, PLEASE REFER TO FLAME PROBLEMS FIRST. IF THE CIRCUMSTANCES DESCRIBED IN "FLAME PROBLEMS" DO NOT MATCH YOURS, THEN REFER TO IGNITION PROBLEMS.

Ignition problems :

FOR HOBS, THE SPARK SHOULD OCCUR FROM

THE ELECTRODE TIP TO THE BURNER CAP.

YES

CORRECT THE WIRING CONNECTIONS OF TERMINAL BOX AND IGNITION BOX.

Please see circuit diagrams

YES

CHANGE THE ELECTRODE.ARE THERE VISIBLE CRACKS ON THE

ELECTRODE SURFACE?

IS THE ELECTRODE SURFACE COVERED WITH DEBRIS, SPILLED FOOD ETC.?

CLEAN THE ELECTRODE AND BURNER SURFACE OR CHANGE THE ELECTRODE.

NO

YES

OBSERVE THE SPARK: DOES THE SPARK OCCUR SIDEWAYS OR

TOWARDS THE BASE OF THE ELECTRODE?

NO

YES

IS THE TERMINAL BOX AND IGNITION BOX WIRING IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE ELECTRICAL WIRING

DIAGRAM ?

NO

NO

CHECK IF THE ELECTRICAL PROPERTIES OF THE NETWORK : (VOLTAGE, FREQUENCY, CURRENT

TYPE) IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE SPECIFICATIONS STATED IN THE RATING PLATE

OF THE APPLIANCE

YES

CHANGE THE IGNITION BOX

FOR OVEN AND GRILL BURNERS, THE SPARK

SHOULD OCCUR FROM THE ELECTRODE TIP TO THE BURNER. )

CHANGE THE BURNER CAP

FIRST, AND THEN CHANGE THE BURNER BODY.

CHANGE THE OVEN

BURNER.

NOT OK.

THE SAFETY AND THE PERFORMANCE OF THE APPLIANCE CAN BE GUARANTEED ONLY WHEN THE APPLIANCE IS USED

ACCORDING TO THE INFORMATION ON THE DATA PLATE. NO

CHANGE THE GRILL

BURNER.

SEE : FLAME PROBLEMS

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Electrical component problems

Fan hitting its cover / working noisy

REMOVE THE FAN COVER. PUSH BACK THE FAN WINGS AND

REPLACE THE COVER. DOES IT STILL HIT TO COVER ?

CHANGE THE FAN COVER. DOES IT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?

Fan problems

YES

Fan not working

IS THE WIRING OF FAN MOTOR CORRECT ACCORDING TO THE

WIRING DIAGRAM ?

THE FAN SHOULD NOT HIT / OR BE LOCKED ONTO THE FAN COVER.

YES

NOCORRECT THE WIRING OF FAN MOTOR

PLEASE SEE : FAN HITTING ITS COVER

NO

NO

CHANGE THE FAN. DOES IT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?

NO

CHANGE THE FAN MOTOR

WHEN OVEN SWITCH TURNED ON, CAN YOU MEASURE VOLTAGE AT FAN

MOTOR ?

CHECK IF THE FAN MOTOR ASSEMBLY SCREWS ARE FIXED CORRECLTY.

PROBLEM SOLVED ?

CORRECT THE WIRING OF OVEN SWITCH - see circuit diagram

CONTROL THE WINDINGS OF FAN MOTOR WITH OHMMETER.

ARE MOTOR WINDINGS DAMAGED?

YES

YES

CHECK IF THE ROTOR GOT LOCKED. CORRECT THE POSITION IF STILL GOT PROBLEM ;

CHANGE OVEN SWITCH

NO

NO


Turnspit problems

IS THE WIRING OF TURNSPIT MOTOR CORRECT ACCORDING TO THE

WIRING DIAGRAM ?

BE SURE THE TURNSPIT SKEWER IS CORRECTLY POSITIONED ?

YES

NO CORRECT THE WIRING OF TURNSPIT MOTOR please see circuit diagram

NO

WHEN OVEN SWITCH TURNED ON, CAN YOU MEASURE THE VOLTAGE

AT TURNSPIT MOTOR ?

CONTROL THE WINDINGS OF TURNSPIT MOTOR WITH OHMMETER.ARE MOTOR WINDINGS DAMAGED?

YES

CHANGE TURNSPIT MOTORYES

NO

NO IF STILL GOT PROBLEM ; CHANGE OVEN SWITCH

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04/17/2023 document.xls


Induction hob doesnt work :

IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TERMINAL BOX?

DOES THE HOB TURN ON?

NO

IS THERE ANY SIGNAL ?

IS THERE ANY DISPLAY?

YES

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS.Please see circuit diagram

YES

YES

YES

NO

NO

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS AND CORRECT

pls see circuit diagram.IF NOT OKEY, CHANGE THE CONNECTION UNIT.

FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE ACCORDING TO DISPLAY ERRORS

NO

U No failure, user is in configuration menu.

Cookware must be placed centrally on the cooking zone

H Cooking zone is hot ( stand-by mode ) IHE has to cool down

L Child-lock is activated. The hob will remain locked

until it gets unlocked by user.

To deactivate the child lock ; Switch on the hob.Simultaneously operate the front right heater selection key.(+) and decrease the heat setting key (-) and then operate the decrease heat setting key again.



Induction hob display errors

Assign IHE via configuration menu or configure IHE via IR programming

E4 :IHE( heating element ) not configured

Delete total configuration and execute configuration.

Check voltages or correct connection filter and IHE and realize, if required.

C No failure, user is in configuration menu.

Put appropriate pot on IHE

C / - Wait for ( - ) , or abortion of the

configuration with respective selection key, C ceases to blink.

E Manual reconfiguration required

E2 : Overheating of the induction coils

1. Pot / glass temperature too high2. NTC _ electronics temperature too high.

IHE has to cool down

E3 Pot generates inadmissible wok point on IHE,

which may lead to destruction of components on the IHE (e.g. IGBT).

If this error is reset after 8 seconds, the hotplate may be used again.

E5 : Error on filter board

Controller data faultyIHE Electronics defective

E6 : Error on power unit

IHE Electronics defective

E9 : Sensor delivers implausible values, a defect is obvious.

Note : Ex means that “E” blinks with the failure number x.

If all executed points should not lead to a solution, replace IHE.

No failure, user is in configuration menu.

No failure, user is in configuration menu.

E4 :Two or more IHE’s have the same

configuration.

E4 :IHE not connected to supply voltage, filter board does not release voltage

(Mains separation relay).

Er47 : Communication error between

TC and induction

None or faulty communication!Ensure that connection cable is plugged on

correctly.

Er31 : Configuration data incorrectConfiguration of induction

necessary

U400 : Secondary voltage of the power unit to high (primary > 300V). Control unit cuts off after

1 sec releasing a permanent tone.

Control unit is wronglyconnected.

Connect to correctmains voltage

Exchange filter board

Exchange power unit

If the error occurs without a pot, or with a 100% working pot you have to Replace IHE


U400 : Secondary voltage of the power unit to high (primary > 300V). Control unit cuts off after

1 sec releasing a permanent tone.

Control unit is wronglyconnected.

Connect to correctmains voltage

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Hot surface indicator light ( residual heat indicator ) not working

CHANGE THE HOT SURFACE INDICATOR

( FREESTANDING COOKERS )

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS pls see circuit diagram

YES

IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TERMINALS OF INDICATOR LIGHT?

REMOVE THE TERMINALS OF WIRING AND APPLY EXTERNAL VOLTAGE ; DOES THE INDICATOR LIGHT TURN ON NOW?

REMOVE THE HOT SURFACE TERMINALS OF HILIGHT HEATER. TURN ON HEATER AND CONTROL WITH OHMMETER IF THE

HOT SURFACE TERMINALS ARE SHORT CIRCUIT ?

NO

NO

YES

NO

CHANGE THE HEATING ELEMENT ( OF CERAMIC HOB )

CHANGE THE HOT SURFACE INDICATOR

( VITROCERAMIC HOBS )

CHANGE THE HEATING ELEMENT ( FREESTANDING VITROCERAMIC COOKERS )

Hot surface indicator light burnt

IF IT IS TOO CLOSE TO THE HEATING ELEMENTS ;

CHANGE THE HOT SURFACE INDICATOR LIGHT



Signal lamp problems :

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTION , IS IT OK?

IS THE SIGNAL LAMP LED HARMED?

YES

CHANGE THE SIGNAL LAMP

BE SURE THAT THE SIGNAL LAMP TERMINAL CONTACTS ARE OK WITH

OVEN SWITCH

NO

IF SIGNAL LAMP CABLE IS HARMED; CHANGE THE SIGNAL LAMP

Signal lamp not working

Signal lamp blinking

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONSCAN YOU SOLVE THE PROBLEM ?

NO

YES

CHANGE THE SIGNAL LAMP

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Digital timer buttons stucking

REMOVE TIMERAND CORRECT THE POSITION OF

TIMER MANUALLY.

CHANGE THE TIMER BUTTONS

YES

IS THE TIMER AND FRONT PANEL HOLES COAXIAL?

NO

Digital timer not working

IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TIMER TERMINALS?

IS TIMER DISPLAY VISIBLE ?

YES

NO

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONpls see circuit diagram on user manual

NO

CHANGE DIGITAL TIMER

WHEN YOU SET THE TIMER , IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TIMER RELAY TERMINAL ?

YES

NO

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Oven light not working

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTION AND CORRECT.

( pls see circuit diagram )DOES IT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?

CHECK THE ELECTRICITY OF OVEN LIGHT

IS THE LAMP DEFECTIVE ( BURNT OR LOOSE )?

OK

IS THE OVEN LIGHT BUTTON WORKING?

NO

NO

IS THERE VOLTAGE AT OVEN LIGHT TERMINAL?

YES

PLUG OFF THE OVEN, CHANGE ONLY LAMP

IS OVEN THERMOSTAT AND SWITCH TURNING ON ?

CHANGE THE OVEN LIGHT BODY ( WITH WIRING )

CHECK THE OVEN LIGHT WIRING CONNECTIONpls see circuit diagram

NOT OK

YES

CHECK THE OVEN LIGHT BUTTON WIRING CONNECTION

( pls see circuit diagram )

YES

YES

NO

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS AND RELEASE THE OPEN CIRCUIT.

NO

IF NOT OKEY ; CHANGE THE OVEN LIGHT BUTTON

CHANGE OVEN SWITCH - IF DEFECTIVE

CHANGE THERMOSTAT - IF DEFECTIVE

NO

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Mechanical component problems : Hinges & Knobs

Before putting on the knob ; be sure the knob segment and knob spring is set correctly

Glass lid angle less than 90° / more than 100°

CHANGE GLASS LID HINGEIS THE LID HINGE COUNTERPART FIXED ?

FIX THE HINGE COUNTERPART. IS IT STILL LESS 90° / MORE THAN 100° ?

NO

YES

YES

Glass lid hinge noisy

CHANGE THE METAL COOKTOP LID.

HINGE PROBLEMS

Oven door hinge noisy

KNOB PROBLEMS

REPLACE GASKET. ( KNOB GASKETS MUST BE SET PROPERLY

ON BOTH SIDES )

KNOB LOOSE IF THE SPIRAL KNOB SPRING IS REMOVED, ASSEMBLE A NEW KNOB RING.

KNOB GASKET GETTING OUT OF ITS PLACE

TIGHTEN THE METAL LID HINGE BOTTOM PART, DOES IT SOLVE?

NO

knob spring

knob segment

knob ring

IF NOT OKEY ; CHANGE THE KNOB GASKET

Knob gaskets must be controlled on both sides - to set properly.

IF KNOB SPRING IS AVAILABLE, CHANGE THE KNOB.

CHANGE OVEN DOOR HINGE

Metal lid angle less than 90° / more than 100°

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Highlight heater(s) not working :

IS THE WIRING OF HEATER CORRECT ACCORDING TO THE WIRING DIAGRAM ?

IS THERE VOLTAGE AT HIGHLIGHT HEATING ELEMENT TERMINALS?

YES

FOR KNOB CONTROLLED HOBS ; CHECK AND CORRECT THE REGLER WIRINGS.

CHANGE HIGHLIGHT HEATING ( SEE : TOUCH CONTROLLED HOBS )

CORRECT THE WIRINGNO

YES

NO

FOR TOUCH CONTROLLED HOBS ; CHECK AND CORRECT THE TOUCH CONTROL

WIRINGS

CHANGE HIGHLIGHT HEATING ( SEE : SIDE KNOB CONTROLLED HOBS )

CHANGE HIGHLIGHT HEATING ( SEE : FREESTANDING VITRO COOKERS )

PLEASE CHECK IF THE SCREWS IN TERMINAL BOX ARE TIGHTENED.

IN OTHER CASE, HEATERS MAY NOT WORK

YES

NOPLEASE TIGHTEN THE SCREWS

BEFORE WORKING THE PRODUCT !



Hotplate(s) not working

IS THE WIRING OF HEATER CORRECT ACCORDING TO THE WIRING DIAGRAM ?

IS THERE VOLTAGE AT HEATING ELEMENT TERMINALS?

YES

CHECK AND CORRECT THE HOTPLATE SWITCH WIRINGS. DOES IT SOLVE ?

YES

NO

CHANGE HOTPLATE

NO

NO

CORRECT THE WIRING

CHANGE HOTPLATE

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Cooking problems

Oven doesnt work

REGULATE THE TIMER pls.see user manual

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONS ARE CORRECLTY DONE ? ( please see circuit diagrams )

IS THE HEAT ADJUSTED WITH OVEN HEATER CONTROL SWITCH?

OK

TIMER ( IF AVAILABLE ON MODEL ) REGULATED OR WORKING PROPERLY ?

YES

NO

EXCHANGE THE APPLIANCE

YES

ADJUST THE HEAT See user manual for detailed

instructions

NO

CHECK THAT THE PLUG IS ON/OFF?CHECK THE TERMINAL BOX HAS VOLTAGE ?

OK

CHECK THE ELECTRICAL HEATING ELEMENTS OF OVEN AND HOB ARE WORKING PROPERLY?

YES

SEE CHAPTER : HOB HEATING ELEMENTS

NO

IF TIMER NOT WORKING PROPERLY : REFER TO TIMER PROBLEMS

SEE CHAPTER : OVEN HEATING ELEMENTS

Cooking problems

IS THE THERMOSTAT BULB BRACKET FIXED CORRECTLY?

Oven cooking unhomogeniously / long cooking period

CHECK SHELF LOCATIONS AND HEAT VALUES,CHECK THE COOKING PERIOD

OK

CHECK WIRING CONNECTIONS ; BE SURE THAT THE OVEN ADJUSTED AS

APPROPRIATE FOR THE VOLTAGE ( REFER TO LABELS )

YES

FOR BEST COOKING PERFORMANICE ; REFER TO THE INSTRUCTIONS

INDICATED IN THE USER MANUAL

IS THE FAN ( IF AVAILABLE ) CORRECTLY WORKING?

YES

REPLACE THERMOSTAT BULB BRACKET

NOPLEASE REFER TO " FAN PROBLEMS "

NO

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Oven Electrical Heating Element(s) not working ;( Top / Bottom / Ring / Grill Heaters )

CHANGE OVEN SWITCH

IS THE WIRING CONNECTION CORRECLTY DONE?

WHEN OVEN SWITCH IS TURNED ON , IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TERMINALS OF HEATER?

YES

IS THERE VOLTAGE AT TERMINALS OF OVEN SWITCH OR THERMOSTAT ?

NO

YES

CHECK AND RELEASE THE OPEN CIRCUIT please refer to circuit diagrams

NO

CHANGE OVEN HEATING ELEMENT

CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTIONsee circuit diagram

NO

YES

CHANGE THERMOSTAT

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Regler doesnt work

IS THERE VOLTAGE AT REGLER TERMINALS ?

IS THE WIRING CONNECTION CORRECLTY DONE? CHECK THE WIRING CONNECTION

YES

CORRECT THE WIRING AND TRY AGAIN. IS IT OK ?

NO

CHANGE ENERGY REGULATOR( SEE : VITROCERAMIC HOBS )

NO

CHANGE ENERGY REGULATOR( SEE : FREESTANDING COOKERS )

NO

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error code : problem definition : solution :

F CLEAN THE OPERATING SURFACE

t LET THE COOKTOP(OR THE ROOM) COOL DOWN

L KEYLOCK TO UNLOCK KEYS ; KEEP PRESSED 2 SECONDS

H HOT SURFACE ( RESIDUAL HEAT ON HEATER ) LET THE APPLIANCE COOL DOWN

F1 AMBIENT LIGHT TOO HIGH TURN OFF / OR DECREASE THE LIGHT SOURCE

F2 STRONG PULSATING LIGHT TURN OFF / OR DECREASE THE LIGHT SOURCE

F3 SENSOR COVERED WITH A BRIGHT OBJECT CLEAN THE OPERATING SURFACE

F4 STRONGLY FLUCTUANING AMBIENT LIGHT TURN OFF / OR DECREASE THE LIGHT SOURCE

20-29 EMITTER DIODE SHORT CIRCUIT, ALL RELAYS OFF AFTER 1sn, CANT TURN ON CONTROL EXCHANGE CONTROL UNIT

20-29 EMITTER DIODE INTERRUPTED, ALL RELAYS OFF AFTER 1sn, CANT TURN ON CONTROL EXCHANGE CONTROL UNIT

20-30 ERROR ANALOG INPUTS. ALL RELAYS OFF AFTER 1sn, CANT TURN ON CONTROL EXCHANGE CONTROL UNIT

81 CHECKSUM ERROR. ALL RELAYS OFF, CANT TURN ON CONTROL EXCHANGE CONTROL UNIT

82 WRITE ERROR. ALL RELAYS OFF, CANT TURN ON CONTROL EXCHANGE CONTROL UNIT

83 READ ERROR. ALL RELAYS OFF, CANT TURN ON CONTROL EXCHANGE CONTROL UNIT

A0

CALIBRATING SENSORS ERROR EXCHANGE CONTROL UNIT

A1A2A3A4A5A6A7A8A9

In case of one or more buttons are pressed longer than 12 sec, the sensor monitoring routine indicates with a beep, that wrong operation (pot or other object placed on the button, sensor failure, etc.) and switches off the appliance.The safety turn off causes the hob to turn off to standby.

EXCEEDING AN AMBIENT TEMPERATURE OF MORE THAN 95C THE CONTROL SWITCHES OFF ALL HEATERS

Short- circuit or discontinuation in the range of the key evaluation

ER 22 :Key evaluation defective; controlunit cuts off after 3.5 – 7.5 sec

Exchange Control unit

Touch control display errors

Water or cookware on the glass top above the control

ER 03 and continious sound : Permanent use of keys; control

unit cuts off after 10 sec

Short circuit in the relays control 5V to ground

ER 12 :Exchange Control unit

Defective componentER 13

Ambient temperatures of the electronic control are still too high

ER 21 Let the cooktop cool down. Check heat insulation against the electronic

control.

Clean the operating surface

Exchange Control unit

ER 20 : Flash-failure μC- faulty Exchange Control unit

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Detecting gas leak on the connection elements :

Apply soap water on the connection points. If you observe bubbles around the part, there is gas leak.

Unscrew the angle hose fitting with a wrench (no : 22 and 24)

If there is no gasket; or if there is a repressed/destroyed gasket ; change it with a new one.

Reassemble the angle hose fitting and check gas leak again.

If you still observe gas leak ; change the angle hose fitting with a new one. Then apply soap water again until it is okey.

See below; gas leak between gas collector and the angle hose fitting.

There must be a gasket inside the angle hose fitting.

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Unscrew the gas delivery pipe nuts and remove pipe out of valve.

Turn the hob backwards and unscrew two screws on hob bottom cover.

Changing manifold and gas valves ( Hobs )

Remove cooktop ( see detailed )

Remove gas delivery pipes from gas valves. Repeat this procedure for each one.

Unscrew the gas valve assembly brackets

Unfix the angle hose from the gas manifold.

Gas manifold is free to change with a new one

Repeat this procedure backwards to assemble the manifold

Remove the gas valves in order. ( Changing gas valves on hobs )

Please pay attention to prevent gas leak : to set the gas valves tightly on manifold

NEW GENERATION FREESTANDING COOKERSFirst remove the front panel, then remove the cooktop.

Then the gas valve becomes seperate; unscrew the bracket, to take off the valve.

Changing gas valves ( Freestanding cookers )

Remove cooktop ( see detailed ) Remove front panel ( see detailed )

Unscrew the gas delivery tube from the gas valve ( by the correct wrench )

Pull off the thermocouple manually.

Gas valve is free to change.

Align the new gas valve with the collector before mounting. Please pay attention : to set the gas valves tightly on manifold

Pull on the gas manifold bracket

For “knob ignition” models; pull off the microswitch.

Screw the manifold bracket onto the gas valve tightly.

Screw the gas delivery tube and connect the thermocouple to the valve.

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For new generation freestanding cookers, first remove the front panel, then the cooktop.

Unscrew the two screws of manifold on the front panel.

Changing gas collector/manifold ( Freestanding cookers )


Remove front panel ( see detailed )

Unscrew the gas manifold brackets

Unscrew the three connection screws on cooktop left angle iron ( back of oven )

Repeat this procedure backwards to assemble a new gas collector ( manifold ) pipe.

Do not use cracked, crashed collectors.

Gas manifold becomes free.

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Changing burner body :

Remove cooktop plate ( For freestanding cookers )

The next steps are similar for hobs and freestanding cookers ;

Hold up the spark plug and remove with cable.

Remove cooktop plate ( For hobs )

Take off the thermocouple : unscrew with a wrench from the burner body.

Press the spark plug segment and hold the spark plug up.

and unscrew the nut between gas delivery tube and burner body.

The burner body becomes free to change.

Then fix the burner body manually (or by an apparatus),

To prevent gas leak ; pay attention the connections to be tight when changing components

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Changing FFD ( thermocouple ) for hobs

Pull off the gas valve end of ffd connection

Repeat the same procedure backwards for assembling a new ffd

Take off the thermocouple : unscrew with a wrench from the burner body

2. Changing FFD ( thermocouples ) for oven 2.1. Changing the FFD ( thermocouple ) for gas grill

To remove the flame failure device ( ffd ) pull backwards manually.

2.2. Changing the FFD ( thermocouple ) for oven burnerUnscrew the two screws and remove the burner cover.

To remove the flame failure device ( ffd ) pull backwards manually.

thermocouple of ffd

Changing FFD ( Flame Failure Device ) for freestanding cookers

a) Changing thermocouple for gas grill burner Pull back the thermocouple manually. ( Apply the same for spark plug )

To remove the cable of thermocouple ; Pull back and remove the ffd completely.

Open the rear panel of cooker

thermocouplespark plug

b ) Changing thermocouple for oven burner To remove the burner cover, unscrew front and back connection screws.

Pull back the thermocouple manually. ( Apply the same for spark plug )

To remove the cable of thermocouple ; Pull back and remove the ffd completely.

Open the rear panel of cooker

thermocouple

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Unscrew the burner body from gas delivery tube by the wrench ( no :13 )

Then unscrew the gas valve end of gas delivery tube by the wrench ( no :13 )

Do not ever use crashed, cracked or sprained gas delivery pipes !

Changing Gas delivery tubes ( freestanding cookers )


defective gas delivery pipe

defective gas delivery pipe

Unscrew the valve end of gas delivery tube by the wrench ( no : 13 )

Unscrew the burner body end of gas delivery tube by the same wrench

Pull back the gas delivery tube from the valve

Then the gas delivery tube is free to change.

Changing Gas delivery tubes ( hobs )


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Changing Grill burner and injector :

If ignition is available for gas grill ; there is a sparking plug ( white) Pull back and remove the spark module manually.

To remove the thermocouple ( ffd ) pull backwards manually.

Uncscrew the grill burner from the cavity.

Pull back and remove the grill burner

Unscrew the grill burner injector with the correct wrench.

Change the injector with a new one from the spare kit. Caution : Do not apply excessive force during screwing the grill burner to the oven cavity, as you may cause enamel fractures. It is recommended to use a protective eye glass during this

process.

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Changing Oven Burner and injector

Unscrew the two screws and remove the burner cover.

Pull back and remove the spark module manually.

To remove the thermocouple ( ffd ) pull backwards manually.

Unscrew the connection screw under the burner box.Use a short , appropriate handhold screwdriver.

Open drawer.( If drawer is fixed : see how to remove )

Remove the oven burner by moving right-left sides in the burner box.

Then you will see the injector;

Unscrew the oven burner injector with the correct wrench.

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Changing the ignitor box :

Pull back all wiring connections out of the ignitor box. Then, press the hooks and remove ignitor box.


Ignitor box is placed into the holes on the side panel.

hook

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Changing the “Spark plug with cable”

For Oven & Grill Burner Remove spark plug manually ( of oven/grill burner )

Remove rear panel ( see detailed )

Pull back and remove the spark module manually

spark plug for oven burner

spark plug for grill burner

and pull off the terminal of oven/grill burner wiring.

Pull back and remove "spark plug with cable"out of the rear panel.

The other end of spark plug is connected to the ignitor box.


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For hobs :

Replace the new spark plug ; and then place correclty the segment to fix it on the burner body

Attach the other end of spark plug cable ; into its place on ignitor box

Changing the “Spark plug with cable”

Press the spark plug segment and hold the spark plug up.

Pull off the other end of cable ( on the ignition box ) manually.

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Removing rear panel

( freestanding cookers ) ( built-in cookers )Detach all screws on rear panel to remove Detach all screws on rear panel to remove

If available, power cord terminals must be taken off from the rear panel back

Changing oven light button / ignitor button


Attention : Do not push back the front panel hardly and fast ; this may cause the button wirings get harmed. Please hold it until you take off

the terminal contacts.

oven light button

Remove the plastic contacts of wiring terminals ( with a nippers )

Then push the hooks surrounding and push forward the button to remove.

Insert a new button ; set it appropriate into the hole.

Reassemble the wiring terminals to button ; and please pay attention the cables not to be destroyed while mounting the front panel.

- All steps are similar for the ignitor button.

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Changing oven light :

Before replacing the lamp, disconnect the appliance from the electricity supplies.Remove the glass protection cover by turning. Then pull back the lamp If the oven lamp has to be changed the new lamp must have the following rating:

25W - 230Vac - 50 Hz - E14 - resistant to high temperatures (300°C)

Pull of the electrical connections of oven light

If harmed/defective, change the wiring harness

Remove rear panel. ( see detailed )

glass cover of the lamp

lamp

Press the hooks on the oven light (by a screwdriver) and then push into the cavity.

Pay attention that : the oven light is replaced appropriate to its hole on cavity

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Changing fan motor

Remove fan cover first.

Then pull back and remove fan :

Unscrew the fan motor from the rear inner panel

Remove the wiring harness of fan motor manually, then the fan motor will be free.


Changing turnspit motor

Unscrew the turnspit motor from the rear inner panel

Take off the wiring connections and remove motor.


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Changing Oven Electrical Heating Elements

1.Ring ( circular ) Heating Element :

Unscrew the ring heating element from the rear of cavity.

Pull out the wiring connections manually. The ring heater will be free then.

2. Top& Grill Heating Element :

Unscrew the top&grill heating element from the rear of cavity.

Remove fan cover.( see detailed )

Remove Top heating element bulb bracket manually ( at middle )

Pull out the wiring connections manually. The ring heater will be free then.

3. Bottom Heating Element :

Pull off the terminals of bottom heating element.

Take up the wrapping insulation ( rockwool ) slightly ,then unscrew the right and left connections of bottom heating element.


for freestanding cookers :

for built-in cookers :

Press down the bottom heating element cover, then pull slightly backwards.

Hold up the heating element slightly and take out.

Repeat this procedure backwards ; to replace the component. back

Changing Digital Timer

Pull off the cable contacts from Digital timer

Unscrew the Digital timer – from the front panel


Correct the position of timer and check if problem solved.

If still not solved ; change the timer buttons.

If problem can not be solved; change digital timer.

Changing Mechanical Timer

Unscrew the mechanical timer from the inner panel.


INDUCTION HOBS SERVICE MANUEL

Changing connection unit of induction hobs :

Unscrew the connection unit screws

Turn over the hob and remove ceramic glassUnscrew all surrounding screws of hob :

Turn over the hob and remove the connection unit cover

Remove all wirings connected :

While reassembling please refer to circuit diagrams

You may remove and change connection unit.

Press on the hooks of connection unit ( with a screwdriver )

unscrew earthing cable

INDUCTION HOBS SERVICE MANUEL

Changing heating element ( IHE) & touch control unit

Unscrew all surrounding screws of hob.

Remove ceramic glass of hob

Pull off terminal connections on the heating element ( IHE )

Remove heating element and change with another if necessary

To change the touch control unit ; remove connected wirings

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(FRONT TRIANGULAR TOUCH CONTROLLED)

1. Removing wiring harness :

C SERIE VITROCERAMIC HOBS

Unscrew the hob bottom cover

Loosen the silicone cable – to release the wiring harness

Unscrew the terminal box and then remove :

Pull the wiring sockets off terminal box Please do nof forget that rewiring must be done appropriately.

Take the wiring terminals off the heating elements

and then pull off from the hooks on the frame :

Wiring harness becomes free.

Unscrew the "touch control unit bottom cover"

touch control unit- bottom cover hooks

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(FRONT TRIANGULAR TOUCH CONTROLLED)

2. Removing highlight heating elements:

they are screwed according to the matching numbers on heater&frame


First unscrew ( v type ) heating element assembly springs

Unscrew ( t type ) heating element assembly springs

Remove ( t type )heating element assembly springs from the hob frame

Remove highlight heater

( RIGHT SIDE KNOB CONTROLLED )

Removing wiring harness :


Unscrew the hob bottom cover

Loosen the silicone cable – to release the wiring harness

Pull the wiring sockets off terminal box Please do nof forget that rewiring must be done appropriately.

Unscrew terminal box and remove.

Remove terminal box heat insulating cover

Take the wiring terminals off the heating elements

Unscrew the regulator cover and then remove the regler

regler cover

Wiring connections are free

Remove the "hot surface indicator light group"

hot suface indicator ligth group

remove energy regulator

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( RIGHT SIDE KNOB CONTROLLED )

Removing highlight heating elements:

they are screwed according to the matching numbers on heater&frame


Unscrew the ( v type ) heating element assembly springs

Unscrew ( t type ) heating element assembly springs

Remove ( t type ) heating element assembly springs from the hob frame

Remove highlight heater

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Changing Function Selector Switch :

Pull off the signal lamp manually - to remove from the panel



On the left; 4 hotplate switches and on the right; function selector switch.

Remove wiring contacts out of the switch ; by a nippers. ( While reassembling the wirings, please refer to circuit diagrams )

Then unscrew the switch from the inner panel

Please hold the switch from its surroundings - not from its top and bottom surfaces

Do not compress the bottom plates of switch !In this case, you may cause short circuit and switch may not work correctly.

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Changing thermostat :

Pull off the signal lamp manually - to remove from the panel

Thermostat and oven switch is placed on the left side of the cooker



thermostatoven switch

Remove wiring connections by a nippers

Unscrew the thermostat from the inner panel

The capillary tube of thermostat; ends on the thermostat bulb inside cavity

capillary tubethermostat bulb

Manually remove thermostat bulb out of its brackets.

Now it is safe to pull back and remove thermostat bulb from the rear outlet. Thermostat becomes free then.

Remove the oven rear panel( see detailed )

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Changing the signal lamp body :

Pull off the signal lamp manually - to leave free from the panel



Remove the signal lamp body manually.

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Handle Problems :

If handle is loose ; replace and tighten it. If not solving ; change with a new one

HANDLE ASSEMBLY TYPES :

OLD VERSION LAST VERSION ( For oven doors before production FEB. 2007 ) ( For oven doors AFTER production FEB. 2007 )

Eski tip kapılarda ; Fırın Kapı Kulbu Bağlantı Grubu = ( Eski Kulp Bağlantı Saplaması + vida )For old version handles ; Handle assembly Group = ( Old Handle assembly stud + screw )For new version handles ; Handle assembly Group = ( New Handle assembly stud + flat washer + screw )

3D SOLID TYPE OVEN DOOR HANDLE ASSEMBLY

handle assembly stud ( old )

flat washer

handle assembly stud ( new )

screw

screw

SOLID TYPE OVEN DOOR HANDLE ASSEMBLY OLD VERSION LAST VERSION

( For oven doors before production FEB. 2007 ) ( For oven doors AFTER production FEB. 2007 )

Eski tip kapılarda ; Fırın Kapı Kulbu Bağlantı Grubu = ( Eski Kulp Bağlantı Saplaması + vida )For old version handles ; Handle assembly Group = ( Old Handle assembly stud + screw )Yeni tip kapılarda ; Fırın Kapı Kulbu Bağlantı Grubu = ( Yeni Kulp Bağlantı Saplaması + kademeli rondela + vida )For new version handles ; Handle assembly Group = ( New Handle assembly stud + gradual washer + screw )

INNER COVER OVEN DOOR HANDLE ASSEMBLY OLD VERSION LAST VERSION

( For oven doors before production FEB. 2007 ) ( For oven doors AFTER production FEB. 2007 )

WASHER

NEW TYPE HANDLE ASSEMBLY STUD

OLD TYPE HANDLE ASSEMBLY STUD

handle assembly stud ( old )

handle assembly stud ( new )gradual washer

handle assembly stud ( old ) handle

assembly stud ( new )

flat washer

screw

screw

screw screw

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DRAWERS

Warmer drawers ( 60x60 products )

Old type warmer drawers ( 55 & 56 products ) New type warmer drawers ( 55 & 56 products )

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DRAWERS

Changing fixed drawer : Unlock the oven door hinges and remove door.

Unscrew the drawer body.

Pull off from the hooks and remove drawer body

Detail A :

DETAIL A

DRAWERS

Changing flap drawer : Unscrew the flap drawer and remove.

Unscrew from the bottom insulation cover

flap type drawer

bottom insulation cover

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Changing oven door :

Unlock the oven door hinges first.

Then manually take off the oven door.

door hinge locked

door hinge unlocked

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Cooktop lids ( sheet iron)

Remove the cooktop lid hinge top and bottom ( plastic ) counterparts ; Change with new ones and try again, if not solving ; change the cooktop lid.

**Do not forget to put washer when placing top counterpart of hinge.

Change the lid with a new one , if necessary

If metal lid angle is less then 90° or more than 100° ;

washer

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Changing Cooktop lids ( glass )

Turn the hinge screws to fix the glass lid.

If not solved, change the lid with a new one.

Take off the hinge cover plastics on the left / right side of glass lid

Placing Cooktop lids ( glass ) Put on the hinge cover plastics on the left / right side of glass lid

Place the cooktop hinges into the glass lid profile.

Set the glass lid, it is completed! Turn the hinge screws to adjust the glass lid if necessary

cooktop hinge : right ( R )

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Changing gas cooktops ; ( Table-top hobs & Freestanding cookers )

1) Table-top hobs : Remove knobs, and screws around burner body.

Then you may change cooktop 2) Freestanding models with or without metal lidUnscrew the back angle irons at the bottom of the plate.(These screws are not available for models with lid )

Changing cooktops ( with lid ) : Pull off the plastic cooktop hinge counterparts.

Unscrew the burner body – and then the cooktop comes free

Hold up from the back side of the cooktop. Then slightly push forward ; to release the cooktop from the hooks.

Follow the above steps backwards – to remount the cooktop

Cooktop hooks

Please note that :

a) Cooktop must be put on the hooks completely

b) Do not forget to put the “washer”; when screwing the hinge counterparts.

washer

3) Freestanding models with glass lid

Fixate the nuts at bottom ( by a nippers ) and then unscrew


Remove glass lid ( see detailed )

4) New generation freestanding cooker

Unscrew the 3 screws connecting inner panel to cooktop

Unscrew the screw and pull off the plastic cooktop hinge counterparts. (see red circled below)



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Changing electric cooktops and hotplates :

Unscrew the back angle irons at the rear bottom of the plate.

Remove cooktop lid ( see detailed ) and then slightly hold up the cooktop from backwards

a) Changing cooktop for freestanding cookers ( with metal lid )

Pull off the plastic cooktop hinge counterparts.

If you try to remove cooktop suddenly ; this may cause the wiring connections get harmed !

Take off the wiring sockets from each hotplate heater.

Take off the earthing cable terminal from the rear-left hotplate heater

Then the cooktop becomes free.

Changing/Removing hotplate elements :Unscrew the hotplate bottom fixation screws, and remove hotplate housing.

Repeat the same procedure backwards when assemblying the hotplates again.

Attention: the connections must be tightened - in order to fixate the hotplates

For productions after 2008 ;

HOTPLATE FIXING ELEMENTS ( 37008787 ) MUST BE SCREWED AS SHOWN BELOW :

We do no recommend to use hotplate fixing brackets on old cookers.

Ø180 hotplate housing earthing vent is moved on the new cookers(with hotplate fixing elements)

HOTPLATE FIXING BRACKETS

old vent

new vent

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Freestanding vitroceramic cookers

Changing cooktop and heating elements & hot surface indicator lights

For both processes, please follow the steps :

Unscrew the back angle irons at the rear bottom of the plate.

Hold up the cooktop slightly from backwards. Take off the earthing cable

Hold the cooktop vertical, then take off all regler connections. ( While reassembling, the wirings must be appropriate with mentioned on the labels )

Then the cooktop is free to change.

If you need to change the heating element, unscrew all surrounding screws of cooktop

Remove the terminals of heating element that you want to change. ( by a nippers )

Put the heating element on a smooth surface, then take off the heating element assembly spring and bracket.

The numbers on the heating element ; a ) refer to the mounting holes of bracket&springb ) must match with numbers on the bottom cover of hob

Now you may change the heating element with a new one.

do not touch heating element resistances !

How to change the hot surface indicator light group :

Unscrew the indicator light group ( with wiring )

Then detach the silicone cable

Remove hot surface indicator group ( with wiring ) and change with a new group.

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Remove knobs manually

Remove the bottom screws of front panel

Pull down and remove panel

Removing front panel ( freestanding cookers )

If available on your oven ; Pull off the wiring connections of ignitor/oven light button.

Change the front panel with another Apply this procedure backwards to reassemble

If available ; pull off the wiring connections of signal lamp



Pull down and remove panel

Removing front panel ( New generation freestanding cookers )



Hold up slightly and remove panel.

Removing front panel ( built-in cookers )

If available on your oven ; Pull off the wiring connections of ignitor/oven light button.

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Wire shelves

New type( Revision: March 2007 ) ( set wire shelf into clips - manually )

Old type ( screwed onto cavity )

To change telescopic rails , unscrew the connections on wire shelf.

wire shelf fixing clips

connection additional part

old version : connection with a screw

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Changing side panels ( Freestanding cookers )

Before changing the side panel ; Take off all components possible to move/fall or defect: Grids and pan supports, knobs, burner caps & heads, trays, warmer drawers etc

Lay down the oven

Unscrew the inner panel and side panel connections. ( apply this procedure for one panel. Do not try to remove both side panels at once. )

Remove oven door. ( see detailed )


Pay attention to put sytrofoam on the ground before you lay down the oven.

Unscrew all surrounding screws on the side panel

Unscrew the front and rear plinth

Unscrew the rear panel

The side panel sets free - you may remove and change it.

Repeat the same procedure backwards when assemblying the new side panel

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Changing side panels ( Built-in oven )

Remove the screws between side panel and top panel. Then slightly hold up and remove the top panel

Remove back screws of side panel.

Remove all scres on the side panel and then pull off side panel


When reassembling the side panel, repeat this procedure backwards. And please pay attention to set the side panel onto hooks at rear.

hook 1

hook 2

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Assembly of anti-tip bracket ( if available on model )

DOVEL

SCREW

ANTI-TIP BRACKET

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Copy of Cookers Service Manual

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