CONTENTS

Page

Introduction and regulations 2 First Aid 3 Safety Precautions 6 Map Reading 8 Report writing 10 Country Code 11 Basic compass work 12 Campcraft 14 Your feet and boots 16 Food and Cooking 18 Kit List 21 Borrowing School Kit 22 Expedition Equipment 24 Your Team 26

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INTRODUCTION AND REGULATIONS 1. The most important thing is that you should enjoy your expeditions. There will probably

seem to be a lot of ‘do’s and don’ts’ in what follows. Mostly they are not rules (some are for safety reasons) but before you ignore any advise remember that it is based on the experience of many people completing many expeditions.

2. Tents and rucsacs are small things. Careful planning and methodical organisation are

essential if you aren’t to get in a hopeless mess. 3. There is a considerable knack in taking just the right equipment and food with you. Weight

is the big enemy. Everything, you take should be; (a) essential, (b) lightweight, (c) of good quality. 4. Good navigation is the key to success when on the move. The only way to become

proficient at navigation is to PRACTICE. 5. Despite what follows there is no single “right” way to do an expedition. Equipment is

changing all the time and none of us ever finishes learning at this game. 6. There will be days when you get wet and cold, lose your way and forget something vital.

But the compensations when all goes well are great. To wake up in a tent bathed in warm sunlight, to wander freely where you want, to drink from a cold clean mountain stream, to cook and eat a meal in the sun, to be independent of civilisation and know you have the equipment and experience to cope with anything nature flings at you ….. that is what it is all about!

7. I hope that your experience with school will enable you to enjoy lightweight camping for

many years. It is a splendid hobby. REGULATIONS FOR DUKE OF EDINBURGH’S AWARD EXPEDITIO N BY FOOT BRONZE 2 days and 1 night around 25 km normal country GOLD 4 days and 3 nights around 30 km wild country Walking group size: Minimum : 4 Maximum : 7 Nights must be spent camping on isolated or small campsites.

Reports are required of Qualifying Expeditions. Practice journeys must be carried out before the Qualifying Expedition.

At each level, the following average numbers of hours per day must be spent on the planned

activity. This means journeying, setting up and striking camp and on tasks related to the purpose.

BRONZE 6 hours per day minimum GOLD 8 hours per day minimum Wild Country means: Exmoor, Brecon Beacons, Mid and North Wales, Peak District, Cheviots

and Durham Dales, North York Pennines, North York Moors, Lake District, Yorkshire Dales, Scottish Highlands.

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FIRST AID There is only room here for a few brief notes. For full information look at; “First Aid” – the manual of the St John Ambulance Bridge and the Red Cross Two guiding principals are: 1. In First Aid you are concerned with preserving life and getting appropriate help. Also to

make a casualty as comfortable as possible and to prevent further injury. 2. You do things in strict order of priority; a. Is it safe to approach the patient? - Danger b. Are they conscious? - Response c. Is their airway open? - Airway d. Are they breathing? - Breathing e. Is there circulation? - Circulation f. Send for help! g. Are they bleeding? h. Are they in shock? i. other injuries

DANGER - There is little point in supporting a fracture if the patient is not breathing! Do not approach a casualty unless it is safe to do so. Check for traffic, falling object, deep water, electricity etc.

RESPONSE - shake their shoulder and question them to test their consciousness.

• Are they breathing? (put your face near their mouth) } “Look, listen and feel”

If not, immediately, send for help and carry out “A.B.C”. Move the patient onto their back on a firm surface then ….

A. AIRWAY Lift their chin and tilt their head back to open their airway. (that may be enough to start them breathing) B BREATHING Use artificial ventilation: i. open the airway ii. pinch their nose iii. seal your mouth over theirs and blow iv. remove your mouth and wait till their chest falls v. repeat (iii) and (iv) so you blow twice. C CIRCULATION Use chest compression: i. kneel beside patient ii. interlock your fingers iii. press down with the heel of your hand on a point just above

the bottom of their breastbone iv. repeat this at about 80 times a minute, giving 30

compressions followed by two breaths of artificial ventilation. Continue this cycle of alternating 30 chest compressions with 2 breaths of artificial ventilation until help arrives.

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One person can to B and another C. If they are breathing send for help and maintain their airway. RECOVERY POSITION An unconscious patient is breathing should be put into the Recovery Position. There is a technique for doing this, which is helpful if the person is very heavy but you shouldn’t be on your own so simply move them into the position show below. This will keep the airway clear. If they stop breathing carry out ABC.

The recovery position OTHER ACTIONS Bleeding

• Apply pressure to the wound at once and lift up the affected limb • Cover with sterile dressing and bandage to maintain same pressure to wound.

Shock

• This follows any serious accident and can be a very dangerous condition. • Lay patient down, keep them warm and reassure them. • Watch their breathing carefully • Raise their legs • Evacuate them to hospital

Fractures The basic idea is to immobilise the suspected fractured part in the most comfortable position. If you suspect a fractured spine, try not to move the patient at all. If you move then use extreme care. Make a collar so their neck cannot move. A folded newspaper or map is useful for this A cagoule sleeve can be pinned up to make a sling for an arm fracture and legs can b tied together with other clothing for a leg fracture. Pain, swelling and distortion of shape are the things to look for if you suspect a fracture. Treat suspicious as the real thing. Only a hospital X-ray can tell you for certain.

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Burns • Drench the area with cold water for several minutes • Cover the area with a sterile dressing – use no creams

Blisters

• If possible simply cover with a plaster • If large and uncomfortable, sterilise a needle in a flame, prick blister at edge, squeeze out fluid

and cover with a plaster • Special blister plasters (eg Compeed) are helpful

Fainting

Lay the patient on the ground and raise their legs, or if sitting, put their head between their knees. If someone does not recover from a faint in one minute put them in the Recovery Position an send for help.

Nose Bleed

• Pinch the soft end part of the bone and hold for 10 minutes • Sit upright and breathe through the mouth, not to swallow • After ten minutes, tell causality to release the pressure. If still bleeding reapply pressure for a

further 10 minutes

Sprains Support the limb in the most comfortable position with a bandage. The treatment for all soft tissue injuries is “RICE” (rest, ice, compression, elevation). Fits Do nothing, but prevent the patient injuring themselves. Foreign body in the Eye Wash it out using a mug of clean water poured slowly. Foreign body in the Ear Tip patient’s head to one side and flood the ear with tepid water. Don’t poke anything into the ear. Animal Bites Wash the wound very thoroughly preferably under a running tap. Insect Bites Remove any sting if still there. Apply cold water. Snake Bites (not impossible in the New Forest!) Lay casualty down. Clean the wound and cover it. Send for help. Diarrhoea and Vomiting Stop eating food! Drink only water, perhaps with 1-2 teaspoons of sugar and tiny pinch of salt to each mug full.

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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS “Safety” is largely common sense and many of the other tips in this booklet are really to do with safety also. Fire Probably the biggest risk in a small tent is one of fire and these rules must be followed strictly. 1. Always cook outside the tent and a few meters away from it. If you use something as a

wind shield take great care. 2. A tent on fire is difficult to deal with. If you catch it early, collapse it and stamp on it.

Otherwise just keep clear. 3. Never fill stoves with fuel when hot, and always fill them well away from the tent. The

burner is cool enough to refill if it’s cool enough to pick up. In bright sunlight be very sure meths stoves are out before you refill them .

Discipline on the move Always keep together – your pace must be that of the slowest. A slow steady pace with infrequent rests is the best idea. Modern boot soles are excellent things but they can be very slippery on wet grass and rocks. Take extra care. If you walk on roads there are three rules; 1. Face the oncoming traffic 2. Keep in single file 3. After dark have a torch front and rear (should only happen in an emergency) Accidents First aid is dealt with elsewhere but don’t forget that the priorities are; 1. DANGER 2 RESPONSE 3. AIRWAYS 4. BREATHING 5. CIRCULATION 6. HELP If you need to fetch help always leave someone with the casualty and send at least two people to the nearest telephone. Dial 999 and ask for the POLICE They will decide what needs to be done. Information required could be:

• Exact location of casualty (6 figure reference and detailed location too) • Nature of injuries • Name/age of casualty • Who is with casualty and what clothing/equipment they have • Time at which accident happened • Where you are phoning from.

It may be best to write this down before you phone, as we all panic a bit when faced with emergencies. First Aid Kit A personal First Aid Kit should contain at least the following;

Fabric plaster (large and small) Tissues Antiseptic wipes Needle Triangular bandage Crepe bandage Safety pin Moleskin Melolin dressings Personal medication Pen/Paper

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Put these items in a stout plastic bag or plastic box. Packing your rucsac The rule is to put the heaviest thing nearest the top and nearest your back; So put i. sleeping bag and spare clothes at the bottom (in plastic bags) ii. food in the middle iii. camping kit above food iv. tent on the top The rucsac should be lined with a plastic bag since it is not waterproof. Bin liners are OK, but rubble sacks are stronger. Pay great attention to the bag over your sleeping bag. Use two plastic bags to be safe. Your waterproofs, lunch and notes should be easily available so use an outside pocket or put them at the top. Fuel should be kept away from food. Use an outside pocket if possible. Try to balance the sac so that one side is not heavier than the other and watch that no item will dig into your back. The Karrimat can be tied outside; it does not absorb water, so need not be covered. Nothing else should be on the outside of the rucsac. Learn how to adjust the rucsac back length to fit you. Ask for help over this. Load Carrying You should be able to keep your rucsac total weight below 12-14kg. with care you can achieve less than this, but in any case it shouldn’t exceed a quarter of your body weight. When putting on a heavy sac, slightly bend your right leg and swing the sac on to your right knee. Pull your arm through the strap and swing it across on to your back. Rucsacs should never to used as seats. What to Wear The kit list tells you this but it is wise to set out each day feeling slightly chilly. If you are warm enough standing still you will soon become too warm and sweat as you walk. When you later stop this dampness will make you chill off rapidly. Water In ‘normal’ Bronze-type country, the only water you can drink comes from a piped public supply.

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MAP READING “Maps” for expedition purposes means Ordnance Survey maps – no others are good enough. In rural areas the 1:50,000 ones (Land Ranger – pink cover) are OK but they do not show the shapes of fields which is a handicap as it makes a footpath difficult to follow. You really need the 1:25,000 scale (Explorer, orange cover). In some areas (eg New Forest) we use the Outdoor Leisure Maps (yellow cover) which are available at the 1:25,000 scale. A Conventional Signs

The signs used to show on the edge of the map. This is no place to list them, but you must know them.

Footpaths

Green dashed lines (on Outdoor Leisure maps) or red dashed lines (Land Ranger maps) are paths on which you have a right to walk. Black dashed lines are visible paths or tracks but may be private.

B Scales

1:50,000 “Landranger” (red cover map) means 2cm on the map is 1 kilometre on the ground. (2mm on the map is 100 metres on the ground). The grid lines are 1 kilometre apart. 1:25,000 “Outdoor Leisure” (yellow cover map) means 4cm on the map is 1 kilometre on the ground (4mm to 100 metres). The grid lines are still 1 kilometre apart.

C Grid Reference To give you a 6 figure grid reference of a point:

• The first two numbers from the top or bottom of the map • The third figure estimates how far across the square from the left in tenths the point is • The next two figures come from the sides of the map • The last figure estimates in tenths how far up the square the point is

75 76 77 78

66

66

65

65

64 X

64 75 76 77 78

• The position of X is 768646

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D. Setting the Map To align the map with the ground either. a. Place the map on the ground and put your compass onit so that the edge is along a grid

line. Set the compass at 4o and turn map and compass until the orienteering lines on the base and the magnetic needle are parallel – and the red end is pointing up the map.

Or b. Turn the map so that a straight section of road, river or path points in the same direction

as the feature on the map. E. Measuring distances on a map There are three ways. 1. Use a straight edge on a piece of paper and mark off the twisting route in small sections,

folding over the edge to start again if needed. Then use the scale at the end of this map. 2. Make a piece of string or cotton follow the twisting route, then pull it out straight and use

the scale. 3.. Use one of the manufactured map measurers to follow the route and read off the distance

on the dial. F Contours

Contours are lines which join together points of equal height above sea level. The vertical height between most contours is now 10 metres. All ‘spot’ heights will be in metres. Few contours means faily flat ground. Lots mean hilly ground. The closer contours are together and steeper the ground.

Common features are:

1. Valley 2. Spur 3. Round topped hill

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REPORT WRITING PURPOSE The regulations say that every Expedition must have purpose . We usually make it ‘The completion of a demanding journey’, but you may wish to choose something else and your report will reflect this. In all cases, a report has to be done and it should be done well. Indeed, for you to qualify we will expect a high standard . 1. Begin with a title page. 2. Then list the basic information a. Names of those who went b. The dates and area you used c. A complete list of all the gear you carried d. Your menu 3. Mark your route on a suitable scale map. 4. Then comes the main account. It could be in essay form but maybe better done in a table

like this. It may be just about your journey or may involve a different ‘purpose’. TIME PLACE EVENT

‘Place’ is best given as a 6 figure map reference. Under ‘Event’ describe what you saw or did at that time. Try to make it interesting. Perhaps you saw a notable building, a bird or an animal. Perhaps you met an interesting

person. Perhaps the weather changed (think of cloud cover, sun, wind, speed and directions, precipitation).

Small sketches, diagrams or photos will make your report ‘come alive’. A bit of ‘humour’

helps – most expeditions have their funny moments. You could even include flower specimens or picture post cards. Try to take a camera with you. Could you add some artwork?

5. Your report should reflect your feelings too. ‘Were you fit enough? Were you organised? Did

you cope well? Did other people help you, or annoy you? How did you feel about the palce? Was your planning good enough? What changes would you make another time?

6. Above all, your report should be informative, interesting and well presented. You can use

word-processing, desk-top publishing, powerpoint or video. You can use hard copy or computer file including e mail attachments.

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COUNTRY CODE These ‘rules’ are accepted by everyone who uses the countryside. They are really only common sense but make sure you know them and abide by them. As an aid to memory, try learning the key words. 1. Enjoy the countryside and reports its life’s work 2. Guard against all risk of fire. 3. Fasten all gates 4. Keep dogs under close control 5. Keep to public paths across farmland 6 Use gates and stiles to cross fences, hedges and walls 7. Leave livestock, crops and machinery alone 8. Take your litter home 9. Help to keep all water clean 10. Protect wildlife, plants and trees 11. Take special care on country roads 12. Made no unnecessary noise.

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BASIC COMPASS WORK At Bronze level, you may well find you do not often need to use a compass. Careful map reading

(without the problem of low cloud and fog you will meet in mountains), means you may well not use the compass. But it can be helpful – for instance, deciding which of several paths to take and measuring distances with the scale rulers.

Firstly, always BELIEVE your compass! Never put metal objects (camera, watches, etc) near your compass. Metal railings, barbed wire,

girders in bridges and overhead cables can all affect the compass. Basic principles

1. The compass needle points to a place on the Earth’s surface called magnetic north. This is about 4o West of Grid North in Britain. This angle (magnetic variation) is slowly decreasing over the years and varies slightly from area to area. The map will give you an accurate value for it. In these notes it is taken as 4o.

2. When using a Silva Compass it can act as a direction finder, or a protractor to measure angles on the map.

3. There are two types of bearing: 1. Magnetic bearing . This is the angle you measure on the ground measured to the

direction of magnetic north. 2. Grid bearing . You measure this on the map with relation to Grid North (grid lines)

i.e. when using your compass as a protractor. To change from one to the other you either add or subtract 4o. This should help you

remember which: a. Magnetic Unto Grid Subtract (MUGS) b. Grid Unto Magnetic Add (GUMA) ‘The Magnetic bearing is ALWAYS THE LARGER ANGLE’ is the best way to remember

it. 4. Know your Compass

1. Scale Ruler : Used to measure distances on a map 2. Magnifier : For helping to read details or in cluttered areas. 3. Index Line : This is the point where you read off the bearing. Some models this is luminous. 4. Direction of Travel Arrow : To point the compass in the direction that you are travelling 5. North/South Orienting Lines : To help you taking bearing from a map 6. Parallel Lines : These lines run parallel with the direction of arrow line. They can be used when taking map bearings. 7. Compass Housing : A rotating dial normally marked in degrees 8. Magnetic needle : the red half point to magnetic north

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All these parts are on the Base plate , which allows you to line up features on the map. The rounded corners allow it to be held comfortably in the hand. Remember: GRID bearings are what you use on a map MAGNETIC bearings are what you use on the ground. A. Taking a grid bearing on the map 1 You are using the compass as a protractor only so IGNORE THE MAGNETIC

NEEDLE 2 Place the edge of the base plate along the line between your position and the place in

question. The travel arrow must point from your position to the place in question. 3 Rotate the housing until the orienting lines are parallel with the grid lines on the map. 4 Read off the grid bearing (at the travel arrow). B Walking on a bearing 1 Turn your grid bearing to a magnetic bearing by adding 4o. Then set the compass to

the angle. Hold the compass flat in the palm of your hand with the travel arrow pointing away from you.

2 Turn your whole body until the red magnetic needle is exactly over the orienting arrow. 3 Walk in the direction of the travel arrow. C. Taking a magnetic bearing to an object . 1. Hold the compass horizontal in the palm of your hand. 2. Point the travel arrow to the object in question. (Look quickly up then down) 3. Rotate the housing until the orienting lines and arrow are parallel with the nagnetic

needle. Make sure the red end of the needle is over the orienting arrow. 4. Read off the magnetic bearing (at the travel arrow). D Finding the object on the map that is at a given be aring 1. Turn your magnetic bearing in a grid bearing by taking away 4o and set the compass at

this angle. 2. Put the side of the compass base plate at your position. 3. Pivot the whole compass round your position until the orienting lines are parallel with

the grid lines. Make sure the travel arrow points from you to the object. 4. The object is along the direction given by the edge of the base plate. (You cannot tell

from this alone how far away it is). E Examples of bearings

CFW drawings

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CAMPCRAFT

Selecting your campsite Look for the following things:

• Level ground. If there is a slight slope, sleep with you head up the slop. A slight hollow for your hips is comfortable.

• Good drainage: Hollows are dodgy as they can fill with water in rain. Look for reds; they suggest the spot can be very wet at times.

• Good soil: Clay drains badly and too many stones make pegs difficult to get in and can damage the ground sheet.

• Shelter from the wind. Avoid high exposed spots and look for natural windbreaks like a wall or hedge. Never pitch under a tree. (Danger from falling branches).

• Water: a good safe supply of water nearby is important. Tents

The best tents for expeditions are low profile 2 person ridge or dome tents, with a sewn in groundsheet and a separate flysheet. Use a plastic bag for the fly sheet and the inner Leave the tent bag at home (it will cost you £5.00 if you lose it). Different tents require different techniques to pitch them but for the Wild Country dome tents we what we use at Bronze Level

a. Clear the area of stones and twigs. b. Take the yellow inner tent and peg out the groundsheet first. Then erect the poles and

clip the inner tent to them using the sewn on plastic clips. Throw over the flysheet, link it to the poles at each foot.

c. The first pegs to put in are always the ones at the four corners by using the tapes. Then peg out the elastics and guy lines tightly.

d. Keep ropes tight and in line with the seams in the fabric e. The angle between the peg and rope should be 90o. All pegs should slope outwards. f. The wind should blow along the longer side with the door away from the wind. When you take down a tent a. Remove all kit and rubbish first b. Remove all pegs, then unhook and remove the flysheet. Shake the surplus water off.

Unzip the liner and remove the poles. c. On a fine day try to let the underside of the groundsheet dry off and remove lumps of

mud. d. Make sure all the pegs go in the peg bag. Put the collapsed poles in the pole bag. e. Fold the tent neatly otherwise if may not go in the bag. Fold in the ‘odd’ bits so you have

a rectangle. Then fold in the ends to the middle tucking in all ropes. Do this several times until small enough to roll it up.

It is very important to put wet tents out to dry within 24 hours of your return. It must be completely dry (including pegs, poles and ropes) before being put away. Mud can be brushed off when dry. A tent put away wet can be completely ruined in a short time.

Rubbish

• Everything must be taken away. If is impossible to burn most packaging due to the presence of plastic and aluminium foil. In the New Forest any kind of fire is strictly prohibited.

• Use a polythene bag to take the rubbish home. There are no rubbish bins. • Never try and bury rubbish or poke it between rocks or under bushes.

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Hygiene Make your toilet well away from the tent and water supply. Do not wash up in steams or otherwise pollute them. Always wash after going to the toilet. Indeed washing and cleaning teeth should be as at home – camping is not an excuse for being dirty. I is very easy to get food poisoning if you are not very careful over cleanliness. General Advice

• Wet things can go between tents and flysheet, or in the porch end but should not touch the fabric. Never enter the tent with your boots on. Take great care with sharp or hot objects on the groundsheet – lightweight groundsheets are not very tough.

• You should always change your clothes when you go to bed. In summer shorts and tee-shirt, but in colder weather put on some spare clothes and change back in the morning. If you are cold at night:-

1. Put on socks, gloves and a hat. Most heat loss occurs from your head, so

use a hat first. 2. Putting clothes under you can be effective. A great deal of heat is lost to the

ground, though a Karrimat reduces this considerably.

• It’s pleasant to chat in one another’s tents in the evening, but regard 4 as a maximum number in a tent.

• Try to keep at least one set of dry clothes especially socks. If the clothes you are wearing are only slightly damp they will dry more quickly on you, though you may feel a bit cold. Indeed wearing damp clothes is the only effective way of drying them in wet weather.

• Organisation is the key in the tent. Keep food by the doorway, clothes at the far end and the rucsac and boots in the porch end on the ground. Keep the matches in a polythene bag in the tent pocket. Try to avoid spilling things on you sleeping bag (or on the groundsheet). If the weather allows, put out your sleeping bag on the tent to air each morning.

• Midges and mosquitoes Biting flies can be a menace. They like warm, damp areas. Cover up as much as possible, including your hair and use an anti-inset spray on yourself. Sunburn Be very careful of excessive sun. Tan slowly and use plenty of cream in the process. Severe sunburn is very serious. Always drink plenty in such weather and cover up before harm is done.

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YOUR FEET AND BOOTS

Walking Boots Good quality boots are expensive, unless your feet have stopped growing, it may not be worth buying them. You can, or course, borrow them from school. Boots are important and ESSENTIAL if you are walking over rough ground or in mountains. The reason for wearing boots are:- 1. They give much more support to your ankles and protest your feet from rough ground. 2. They keep your feet dry in mud and even several inches depth of water. 3. They give better ‘grip’ than normal footwear.

Things to look for (a) A good ‘cleated’ rubber sole (b) Most boots are leather, though there are some good quality fabric boots around. These are softer and very comfortable, but just cannot be made permanently ‘waterproof’. (c) A sewn-in tongue, with hooks and rings for the laces, rather than lace holes. This means you can walk through several cms of water without getting wet. They are also easier to lace. (d) Boots that are not too bendy’ or twist easily. But you do not want

VERY stiff boots for walking. Very bendy boots tire your feet more and give little protection from the constant impact of the ground on your feet.

(e) As few seams as possible on the uppers. These are potential places for leaks.

(f) Comfort. This is very important. Some padding is helpful, especially round the top.

Going to buy or borrow boots

• Take 2 pars of thickish wool socks with you and try the boots on wearing them. Many people find two pairs helpful, but one thick pair may suit you.

• Ask for a size larger than you normally wear with shoes. But don’t be afraid to take your time and try several types and sizes.

• ALWAYS get boots on the big size rather than the opposite. You can always wear an extra pair of socks. Boots may stretch slightly in circumference but NOT in length.

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Breaking in boots It is advisable to wear new boots several times before you go away with them. Modern lighter boots need less breaking in time than their predecessors, but some is still necessary. Start indoors for, say, an evening. Then wear them outside for longer periods. Only when you feet get really hot will the boots mould well to your feet. Blisters Of all the problems that arise, blisters are one of the worst. If you aren’t used to boots or walking long distances with a rucsac, you are definitely at risk! Any sore places on your feet should be covered immediately with ‘Moleskin’ (obtainable at chemists), but if a real blister forms than use a plaster. There are special thick plasters for blisters called ‘Compeed’ but they are expensive. It is important to wear thick wool socks. Nylon socks cause far more blisters. Most sports socks (eg for rugby or hockey) are nylon. Spend some time getting the right socks and lace up your boots quite tightly so your feet can’t move about in them much. It is movement that causes blisters. Clearing boots (1) Wash off mud and allow them to dry naturally – do not use heat. (2) Use ‘Nikwax’ when dry, particularly on the seams. This makes them waterproof. Apply

‘Nikwax’ with your fingers, the warmth softens the wax and helps it penetrate the leather. (3) Fabric boots need to be sprayed with the recommended spray, but don’t expect the effect to

last long. ‘Goretex’ linen certainly make such boots waterproof but the life of the liner Is quite short.

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FOOD AND COOKING Good nourishing food is very important. With a high work output you need your food more than usual. In bad weather, good food can do a lot to life your sagging spirits. Choosing and cooking your own food is great fun. But remember you have one burner, no oven and no microwave. Planning Your pair needs 2 meals a day (one of which must be cooked), a lunch and several drinks. You should plan out a menu, then carefully work out a list of food needed. You will be asked for a copy of the menu before you go.

Breakfast Cereal and milk Cooked course (for preference) Pitta bread, Crispbread and spread Tea or coffee or cold drink

Lunch Choose from: Pitta break or Crispbread/jam/cheese-spread/honeyfruit/cake/nuts/sultanas/chocolate/ biscuits/mintcake

(There’s not time to get out the stove for lunch) Evening Soup Main course Sweet Tea or coffee or cold drink

Some ideas are: Breakfast (a) Cereal – muesli or instant porridge takes up least space (b) Cooked breakfast: (1) Frankfurters – simply heat in water (2) Super noodles (3) Baked beans (heavy). Evening (a) Soup – ‘Cup a soup’ for speed (b) Main Course (1) Frankfurters and mash (2) ‘Vesta’ meals – good value but slow to cook. Choose ‘one pan’ variety (3) ‘Beanfeast’ – vegetarian Several varieties (4) ‘Pasta Choice’ – quite quick to do. (5) Freeze dried meal, expensive, very east to prepare, (6) ‘Boil in the bag’ – empty into a pan and heat and stir. Heavy (7) Pasta – add sauces, cheap and good food value. (8) ‘Weyfarer’ meals – several varieties, pre-cooked, good, but heavy and

expensive. Frying

DO NOT FRY FOOD. Tragia Stoves are not suitable for frying and fat splashes and could ruin the tent fabric.

Washing-up There are two vital necessities – detergent and plenty of hot water . Otherwise the job is

impossible and unhygienic. Use your biggest billy for washing up and tip the water well away from the tent afterwards. You only need a small quantity of detergent. Don’t wash up in streams.

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Hints 1. At lunch have good food which is high in calories, not protein e.g. dried fruit, chocolate, jam,

cake, that provides the quick-release energy for the afternoon. In the evening have plenty of carbohydrates (pasta, potato, crispbreads, rice). That will provide

the slow-release energy for the following day. 2. Always use dried milk and tea in bags. 3. Use plastic bags and pots for your food – make a collection of suitable containers. Never take

glass containers. 4. Things people often forget are; Matches, Detergent, Milk, Biscuits, Salt, Sugar. 5. Avoid putting anything hot or sharp on the groundsheet. 6. A hot drink on arrival at your campsite and last thing at night are useful. Hot Chocolate or

coffee sachets are useful too. 7. Remember to drink plenty, especially in hot weather. 8. Fill your personal water bottle before leaving each morning. 9. Have everything ready for breakfast (including water) the night before. 10. Never undercook dehydrated items. 11. Look for items with short simmering times. 12. There is a detergent in a tube called “Travel wash”. It is rather expensive but very economical

and also biodegradable. 13. You can save fuel by: (a) Always putting a lid on cooking pots. (b) Using the simmer ring (c) As soon as a course is cooked put on the next item while you are eating

the first. Put on the washing up water whilst eating your last course. 14. Have a plastic bag ready at the tent door and put all rubbish in it immediately. Push dead

matches down into the ground. 15. Most mugs contain about ½ pint. It is wise to find out the volume of yours with a measuring jug

at home before you leave. 16. It takes about 1½ hours to cook and clear up an evening meal. 17. One luxury food item ! (large bar of chocolate maybe) 18. A few sweets is a good idea but be sensible. Put all sweet papers in your pocket or the rubbish

bag. 19. Avoid excessive packaging on foods. Often part of the packaging can be left at home but take

the instructions with you. 20. Sandwiches are OK for the first day’s lunch but after that avoid bread – it simply breaks into

unusable crumbs. Use crispbreads or pitta bread/wraps. 21. A packet of biscuits is great for snacks in the day 22. Crisps don’t travel well.

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23 Fresh fruit is a good fibre provider, but heavy 28. Don’t take alcohol on an Expedition THAT’S A RULE – NOT ADVICE 29. Wash up before you go to bed! Nothing is more depressing than to wake up in the morning to

find last evening’s washing up still not done. 30. Can or cartons of drink are very heavy. Only take one or two!

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KIT LIST It is vital that you stick closely to this list. If refers to Summer Expeditions at Bronze level only. Remember – every item should be as light as possibl e WEAR: Underwear, warm long-sleeved shirt, trousers, jumper, boots, 2 pair wool socks. PERSONAL KIT

Rucsac * Knife, fork, spoon Spare shirt Mug (plastic) Spare socks Bowl (plastic) Spare underwear Toilet kit (very small, share items) Karrimat * Sleeping bag Watch cagoule & overtrousers * Spare jumper Hat and gloves Camera, notebook and pen (only on test) Shorts (PE type) Handkerchief Dustbin liners (to line rucsac

PER PAIR

Tent * Dishcloth Stove * Scourer Fuel * Toilet Paper First Aid Kit Map * Water carrier (carry it empty) * Poly bag for map Matches Tea towel Compass * Towel (small) Torch (Tin opener – if you must take tins)

* are available on loan from school Clothing 1. Wool or acrylic jumpers are warmer than cotton sweatshirts 2. Wool socks are essential to avoid blisters 3. Jeans (denim) are poor insulators in the cold and wet (and are totally unacceptable in

mountains) 4. Tuck your trousers into your socks to avoid tripping over them or getting them dirty. 5. Track suit bottom are OK for trousers, but not wide ones. Synthetic trousers can melt or catch

first near stoves. Take great care.

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BORROWING SCHOOL KIT

Be aware how lucky you are. Few schools are in our position. Realise too that many people work to buy, issue, check back and maintain the kit for you. 1. The equipment has been purchased from the “Friends’, the school and from profits from

school trips and expeditions. It costs thousands of pounds each year to maintain it. 2. Everything borrowed MUST be returned clean and dry on the day arranged. Someone

else’s trip probably depends on this. We may charge you per item, per day from your deposit if not returned on time.

3. It may be possible to borrow gear for non-school trips, but of course priority must be given for

school use. A charge will be made similar to the amount included in the cost of school trips. 4. If there are faults with the gear please report immediately. It is impossible to check items

thoroughly between trips. You are strongly advised to check all kit issued to you before you use it and report problems, or you may be charged for faults or losses.

5. It should be regarded as a privilege to borrow equipment and you should treat all gear with

great care. Cleaning Gear TENTS: Clean out all rubbish and then make sure they are thoroughly dry. Hang

them up in the garage or pitch them in the garden./ Remove mud with a stiff brush. FOLD THEM away as shown. Clean and straighten all pegs.

BOOTS: Let them dry NATURALLY – use no heat. Clean off mud, then use “Nixwax”

if you have it. If not, use shoe polish. Clean mud off the sole. WATERPROOFS: Wipe off mud with damp cloth or rinse in cold water. Use a nailbrush on the

outside. Do not use detergents. Do not put them in a washing machine! RUCSACS: Brush off mud with a stiff brush or use cold water and a nailbrush. Check all

pockets are empty. STOVES: Clean very thoroughly with a “brillo” pad and hot water. Make sure all

accessories (pot grip, burner, lid, simmer ring) are in a plastic bag – NOT loose, or corrosion occurs. If using paste fuel return part empty containers and support spring clip

Folding Tents 1. Scrape the mud off all pegs. 2. Lay the inner tent on its groundsheet. Make sure all yellow fabric is on top of the

groundsheet neatly. 3. Lay the flysheet down double. Fold in both Porch ends; fold in each end to the middle

and fold over again. 4. Lay the flysheet on the inner (they should now be the same size), place the poles in their

bag on top and roll up tent. 5. Slide the roll into the bag and place the bag of pegs on top. Secure the bag.

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Rules for borrowing school kit 1. Always return kit clean and on time. Others are depending on it. 2. Look after kit very carefully, it is all very expensive to replace. 3. Always report any faults, of parts missing, on your return. 4. Never leave kit at the store unless someone is there to check it off. (go to D of E Office) 5. Let boots dry naturally, clean off all mud, then clean with shoe polish (or nikwax if you

have it). 6. Tents must be returned completely dry. 7. clean mud from waterproofs and rucsacs with cold water and a nailbrush. Do not use

detergents. 8. Clean all black off stoves with a “Brillo” pad (burner, cap, simmer ring and pot grip) must

all be in a polythene bag. 9. You are responsible for all school kit that is issued in your name.(kit is numbered and

traceable to you). Deposits A deposit of £30 (by cheque made payable to “Broxbourne School”) is required at the time of issue for any school kit borrowed. The cheque is returned to you if the kit is returned clean, on time and in good repair.

REMEMBER NO £30 DEPOSIT – NO KIT

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EXPEDITION EQUIPMENT

Most of you will borrow nearly all your camping kit from school. Here are some notes of what we use. Borrowed Kit Waterproofs The nylon cagoules and overtrousers are made ‘waterproof’ by sealing the back with a proofing and taping all the seams to cover the stitch holes. When you are walking you will sweat quite a lot and this water can’t escape outwards through the waterprrof. You may find therefore that condensation occurs on the inside. The harder you work and the more muggy the weather, the worse it will be. You are bound to get damp. Open the front zip when the rain is not too bad. Never wear overtrousers unless the rain is heavy. Do not wear waterproofs at all if it is not raining. Some modern waterproofs have a ‘breathable’ proofing. This helps but doesn’t totally solve the condensation problem, but most of our waterproofs are not made of ‘breathable’ fabric. Tents We use Wild Country. They are made of nylon and use high grade bendable aluminium poles. The two person tent is called a ‘Mesa’. Stoves ‘Trangia’ stoves burn liquid meths or gel meths. There is little to go wrong with them and they are hard to knock over. They also burn quite successfully in a howling gale. However, they are a bit slow and the pans do get rather black. Above all, they are very safe . Rucsacs Nearly all our sacs are ‘Jaguars’ made by Karrimor. They are 64 litres in capacity and you can adjust the length on the back to fit you. The hip belt should take quite a bit of the weight if the straps are all adjusted correctly. Remember – no rucsac is waterproof, so you must use a bin liner in them. Your sleeping bag may fit in the bottom compartment. If so, use a separate bin liner for it. But don’t strain the zip if the sleeping bag won’t go in easily. Don’t feel you must fill the rucsac! The same ones are quite big enough for a 4 day Gold Expedition. Karrimats The closed-cell foam mats for sleeping on are only 1cm think. Although they soften the ground a bit, their main purpose is to insulate you to keep you warm, Compasses All our compasses are made by Silva and are liquid filled, so the needle settles quickly to a steady direction. They cost £18.00 each so don’t lose it. Boots Most of our boots are Scarpa ‘Trek’ or contour. They are leather with vibram soles suitable for mountain trekking. Fuel Bottles The Swiss made ‘Sigg’ bottles are very liquid tight. They don’t leak! You only have to unscrew the cap a few turns (not remove it) to enable you to pour out the fuel through a hole in the stopper. Sigg also make water bottles in ½, ¾, 1 and 2 litre sizes. Water containers Ortlieb make our water bags. They cost £25 each but are very hygienic, leak proof and tough. Unscrew the large ring to fill and the small ring to pour.

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Personal Kit Choose a three season mummy shape bag with compression straps to reduce its packed size. If you buy any kit for yourself – do seek advice first. Sleeping bag The one item you must provide is a sleeping bag.

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YOUR TEAM

When you do your expedition, you will always be a member of a team and the idea of a ‘Team effort’ is very important. This means you will. 1. Walk at the pace of the slowest person. It can be irritating, but it must be done! 2. Encourage people who are having difficulties. We all have problems at times and support

and encouragement can be an enormous help. 3. Try to be tolerant. People are all different and most of us have ‘off’ days. Try not to

criticise others. 4. Work together to make decisions. This applies particularly to the navigation. When you

need to decide which direction to take discuss it as a group first and try to involve everyone.

5. Try to talk to everyone at some stage. You may discover new friendships on an expedition.