2017

By Cape Fear Habitat Construction Staff

Construction Manual

i

Table of Contents

Vision………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… i Mission……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… i Families and Home Ownership…………………………………………………………………………………………………..i Community Support………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. i Our Habitat……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. i VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES……………………………………………………………………………………………………. ii

Construction Volunteer………………………………………………………………………………………………………. ii Deconstruction Volunteer…………………………………………………………………………………………………… ii

VOLUNTEER PROCESS AND EXPECTATIONS………………………………………………………………………………. ii How to Start Volunteering…………………………………………………………………………………………………… ii Volunteer Expectations……………………………………………………………………………………………………….. iii Age Limits……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. iii

HABITAT CONSTRUCTION WORKDAY INFORMATION………………………………………………………………… iv Workday Schedule………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. iv Experience and Training……………………………………………………………………………………………………… iv Tools and Attire…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… iv Weather……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… iv Food and Drinks………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. iv

CONSTRUCTION TOOLS LIST……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 1 CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS LIST………………………………………………………………………………………………. 5 CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE OVERVIEW…………………………………………………………………………………….. 8 PRE-CONSTRUCTION…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 9

Permit…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 9 Build Schedules…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 9 Survey Lot…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 10 Laying Out the House………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 10 Install Temporary Power Pole……………………………………………………………………………………………… 11

DURING CONSTRUCTION…………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 13 Footing & Foundation…………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 13

Dig and Pour Footings…………………………………………………………………………………………………… 13 Footing Checklist…………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 14 Safety………………………………………………………………………………………………….………………………… 14 Crawl Space Foundation………………….…………………………….……………………………………………… 14

Framing…………………………………………………………………………………….………………………………………… 15 Floor Framing………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 15

Floor system………………………………………………………….………………………………………………… 15 Girder beams/support beam…………………………….……………………………………………………… 16 Floor joists/trusses (I-beams) …………………………..……………………………………………………… 17 Floor system checklist……………………………………………………………………………………………… 18 Safety………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…………… 18 Subfloor (Advantech) …………………………………………………………………………………….………… 19

ii

Wall Framing……………………………………………………………………………………………………….………… 19 Layout for walls and pre-building wall parts……………………………………………….………….. 19 Framing parts – cut sheet………………………………………………………………………………………… 22 Raising the walls (normally 3rd Saturday) ………………………………………………………….…… 24 Double top plates……………………………………………………………………………………….…………… 25

Build and Install Porch Beam………………………………………………………………………………….……… 26 Roof Framing………………………………………………………………………………………………………….……… 26

Truss preparation and setting………………………………………………………………………………….. 26 Barge rafters/ fly rafters (overhangs) ……………………………………………………………………… 28 Fascia boards………………………………………………….………………………………………………………. 29

Sheathing……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…… 29 Roof Sheathing………………………………………………………………………………………….………………………… 29 Miscellaneous Framing………………………..……………………………………………………………………………… 30

Deadwood Installation………………………………………………………………………………..………………… 30 Truss bracing and rat run installation……………………………………………………………………………. 31 Hurricane Clips Installation…………………………………………………………………………………….……… 31 Blocking…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 32

Cabinet blocking………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 32 Linen closet and pantry blocking……………………………………………………………………………… 32 Closet and laundry room blocking……………………………………………………………………………. 33

Exterior Finish……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 33 Windows and Exterior Doors Installation………………………………………………………………………. 33

Windows…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 33 Exterior doors………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 34

Siding…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 35 Vinyl installation……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 35

Soffit……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 38 Soffit installation……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 38

Crawl Space Door ……………………………………………………………………………………………………….… 40 Interior Finish …………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 40

Interior Doors Installation……………………………………………………………………………………………… 40 Interior Painting…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 41

House preparation before start painting…………………………………………………………………. 41 Paint walls, doors and trim…………………………………………………………………………………….. 42 Baseboard installation…………………………………………………………………………………..………… 43

Hardware Installation…………………………………………………………………………………………….……… 44 Install cabinets and countertops………………………………………………………………..…………… 44 Interior hardware and closet shelves………………………………………………………………….…… 46

POST CONSTRUCTION……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..… 47 Landscaping………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 47 Punch and Clean………………………………………………………………………………………………………….……… 48

Tool Appendix…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 49 Construction Term Glossary……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 50

i

Vision

A world where everyone has a decent place to live.

Mission We are a Christian housing ministry assisting families in the Cape Fear region towards the purchase of a Habitat home.

Families and Home Ownership Cape Fear Habitat is a Christian non-profit housing organization that assists families of all faiths in the Cape Fear region towards the purchase of a Habitat home. We invest in the long-term success of our partner families and neighborhoods, because Habitat believes that homeownership transforms lives, promotes dignity and enhances self-esteem.

We provide simple, decent, and affordable housing, which we sell at no profit to our partner families. The average single-family home is 1,100 square feet, with an average cost of $90 per square foot (approximately $100,000 per house). We build 3 and 4-bedroom homes and it takes approximately 16 weeks to complete a house.

Our partner families earn from 35 to 60 percent of the area median household income and purchase their home through a zero-percent interest mortgage from Cape Fear Habitat for Humanity. The homeowners' monthly mortgage payments are then recycled back into the program to build more Habitat homes.

Habitat is not a giveaway program. In addition to closing costs and the monthly mortgage payments, homeowners invest hundreds of hours of their own labor – sweat equity - into building Habitat houses and working in various support areas. They also complete financial counseling and homeownership education, to provide a foundation for sustainable homeownership.

Community Support We are funded by mortgage payments, house sponsors, business and corporate partnerships, community groups, grants, churches, civic and fraternal organizations, individuals, memorials, honorariums, fundraising events, and ReStore revenues. Community groups donate time, money, building materials, land and labor to our efforts. Proceeds from our ReStores support the administrative costs of Habitat, which means that nearly every dollar donated to Cape Fear Habitat goes directly to build a Habitat home. We are incredibly grateful for the community support we receive and are always looking for additional funding sources and donors!

Our Habitat Since 1987, Cape Fear Habitat for Humanity has built safe, decent and affordable homes with more than 180 families in the Cape Fear Region. Our ministry continues to grow stronger through the support of our local community, and our affiliate currently serves New Hanover and Pender counties.

ii

Habitat for Humanity International was founded in 1976 and has built or rehabilitated more than 300,000 homes, providing more than 1.5 million people safe, decent shelter. The ministry is a growing social and spiritual movement, creating tangible results that affect people's lives every day.

For more information about Cape Fear Habitat for Humanity, visit our website: www.CapeFearHabitat.org.

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES

Cape Fear Habitat for Humanity provides opportunities for people and organizations to experience the power of working together to transform lives and improve the quality of life in our community through volunteering. Habitat offers numerous volunteer opportunities (outlined below), so that you can find what you love doing and have a meaningful, rewarding experience with us!

Construction Volunteer Work side-by-side with fellow volunteers, future homeowners, and site supervisors to help build our homes. No specific skills are required except the willingness to work as a team! Training is given on site to all new volunteers. We build with volunteers on Wednesdays and Thursdays from 8 a.m.-noon; and on Saturdays from 8 a.m.-3 p.m.

Deconstruction Volunteer Assist with removing reusable materials from houses scheduled for demolition. Hours and days vary as your schedule permits.

Volunteers are the heart of Habitat and are the most important resource we have! So we are grateful that you are taking the time to invest in our organization and its mission! VOLUNTEER PROCESS AND EXPECTATIONS

How to Start Volunteering We welcome individuals and groups to volunteer with Cape Fear Habitat! Our Volunteer Coordinator will schedule you for an upcoming volunteer opportunity that fits your needs. If you see something in this handbook that interests you, let us know! To volunteer, contact Chris Teeter at chris@capefearhabitat.org or 910-762-4744 ext. 105; or go online to Cape Fear Habitat’s website and complete the online volunteer inquiry form: http://www.capefearhabitat.org/Volunteer/VolunteerApplication.aspx.

iii

Volunteer Expectations 1. Know your own duties and stay on task. 2. Cooperate with staff and your fellow volunteers, and maintain a team attitude. 3. Voice your opinions and contribute your suggestions to improve Cape Fear Habitat’s

work. 4. Sign in and out each time you arrive for a work assignment. 5. Be on time for scheduled meetings and work assignments. 6. Honor your commitment and come when scheduled 7. Treat all volunteers, staff, and homebuyers with respect.

Remember, you help to create the pleasant and safe volunteering conditions that Cape Fear Habitat desires for all volunteers! So we need your help in making each volunteer day enjoyable and rewarding.

Age Limits Due to liability reasons, there are age limits for our ReStore and construction sites. Volunteers must be at least 16-years-old to work at the ReStore and must be 14-years-old to work on a construction site. An adult must accompany any volunteer who is under 18. In addition, the following rules apply for youth on construction sites:

- Youth ages 14-15 are allowed to dig footings, paint, and do landscaping; but they CANNOT be on sites with power tools in use or be on ladders.

- Youth ages 16-17 are allowed to work on general construction sites; but they CANNOT use power tools, work on roofs, or be on ladders.

iv

HABITAT CONSTRUCTION WORKDAY INFORMATION

Workday Schedule 7:45 a.m. – Arrive on site 8 a.m. – Site orientation and work begins 11:30 a.m. – Lunch 3 p.m. – Workday Ends

Our workday is typically from 8 a.m.-3 p.m., although we sometimes finish earlier depending on the crew size and task. We ask our volunteers to commit to staying the duration of the workday; otherwise the job might not be completed, which could delay our build schedule.

Experience and Training Construction experience is not necessary to work on our build sites! Once you arrive on site, our construction staff will provide safety training and site orientation. Then you will be assigned a task, which will be led by the site supervisor or a trained volunteer. They will lead you in all construction tasks throughout the day, so you are in good hands! We want you to have a safe, meaningful experience with Habitat – so please ask questions or ask for help any time at the job site!

Prior to working on site, we request that all construction volunteers watch a 13-minute Construction Safety video (see the “Volunteer Process and Expectations” page for video link).

Tools and Attire We will provide all of the tools required for the jobs, although you are welcome to bring your own tool belt or hand tools, if you prefer. We will have gloves, goggles and other safety equipment, but require that all volunteers wear closed-toe shoes (sneakers work fine). Please wear comfortable clothing that is weather-appropriate and “sacrifice-able” (we can get pretty grungy!).

Weather Although we don’t work in the pouring rain, we do try to work in a drizzle. So a light rain jacket can be helpful for pop-up showers. Hurricanes and deluges will stop work, but we work around weather systems as much as possible. We rarely cancel a workday!

Food and Drinks Drinking water and small cups are provided on site, and we recommend that volunteers bring a snack and personal water bottle for the day. You will be notified the week before if lunch is being provided for your workday. We make every effort to have lunch donated, but there are some days when volunteers may have to bring a bag lunch to site.

v

Release and Waiver of Liability

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY!

THIS IS A LEGAL DOCUMENT THAT AFFECTS YOUR LEGAL RIGHTS!

This Release and Waiver of Liability (the “Release”) is executed on this _____ day of _______________, 20___,

by ___________________________________________, (the “Volunteer”), in favor of Cape Fear Habitat for

Humanity, Habitat for Humanity International, Inc., and any other Habitat for Humanity affiliated

organization, and their respective directors, officers, trustees, employees, volunteers and agents (collectively,

the “Released Parties”).

I, the Volunteer, desire to work as a volunteer for one or more of the Released Parties and engage in the

activities related to being a volunteer ("Activities"). I understand that my Activities may include but are not

limited to the following: working in Habitat for Humanity offices or Habitat for Humanity ReStore operations;

traveling to and from work sites, towns, cities or countries; consuming food available or provided; living in

housing provided for volunteers; constructing and rehabilitating residential buildings; and other construction-

related activities.

I, the Volunteer, hereby freely, voluntarily and without duress execute this Release under the following terms:

Release and Waiver. I, the Volunteer, do hereby release and forever discharge and hold harmless the Released

Parties and their successors and assigns from any and all liability, claims and demands which I or my heirs,

assigns, next of kin or legal representatives may have or which may hereinafter accrue with respect to any

bodily injury, personal injury, illness, death or property damage which arise or may hereafter arise from or is in

any way related to my Activities with any of the Released Parties, whether caused wholly or in part by the

simple negligence, fault or other misconduct, other than intentional or grossly negligent conduct, of any of the

Released Parties or of other volunteers.

I understand and acknowledge that by this Release I knowingly assume the risk of injury, harm and loss

associated with the Activities. I also understand that the Released Parties do not assume any responsibility for

or obligation to provide financial assistance or other assistance, including but not limited to medical, health or

disability insurance in the event of injury, illness, death or property damage.

It is the policy of Habitat for Humanity that children under the age of 16 are not allowed on Habitat for

Humanity worksites while construction is in progress. It is further the policy of Habitat for Humanity that, while

minors between the ages of 16 and 18 may be allowed to participate in construction work, using power tools,

excavation, demolition, working on rooftops and similar activities are not permitted for anyone under the age of

18.

Medical Treatment. I, the Volunteer, do hereby release and forever discharge the Released Parties from any

claim or action whatsoever which arises or may hereafter arise on account of any first aid, treatment or service

rendered in connection with my Activities with any of the Released Parties.

If the Volunteer is less than 18 years of age, the Volunteer and the parents having legal custody and/or the legal

guardians of the Volunteer (the “Guardians”) also hereby release and forever discharge the Released Parties

from any claim whatsoever which arises or may hereafter arise on account of the decision by any representative

or agent of the Released Parties to exercise the power to consent to medical or dental treatment.

Assumption of the Risk. I, the Volunteer, understand that my Activities may include work that may be

hazardous to me, including, but not limited to, the following: construction; loading and unloading; travel to and

from the work sites; and exposure to lead, asbestos, and mold, which may cause or worsen certain illnesses,

especially if I do not wear protective equipment, am exposed for extended periods of time, or have a pre-existing

immune system deficiency.

P a g e | 1

vi

I hereby expressly and specifically assume the risk of injury or harm in the Activities and release the Released

Parties from all liability for any loss, cost, expense, injury, illness, death or property damage resulting directly

or indirectly from the Activities.

Sex Offender and Criminal Background Check Policy. I, the Volunteer, understand that Cape Fear

Habitat for Humanity reserves the right to request criminal background and sex offender checks at any point

during Volunteer Activities. Volunteer’s permission will be requested in writing before any checks are

conducted, and all results will be kept confidential.

It is the policy of Habitat for Humanity International, Inc. that criminal background checks be conducted for all

potential partner families, board members, employees, and key volunteers. “Key volunteers” generally refers to

individuals who work eight or more hours each month and/or have contact with vulnerable populations such as

children, the elderly or persons with disabilities.

Insurance. I, the Volunteer, understand that, except as otherwise agreed to by the Released Parties in writing,

the Released Parties are under no obligation to provide, carry or maintain health, medical, travel, disability or

other insurance coverage for any Volunteer. Each Volunteer is expected and encouraged to obtain his or her own

health, medical, travel, disability or other insurance coverage.

Photographic Release. I, the Volunteer, do hereby grant and convey unto Habitat for Humanity

International, Inc., all right, title and interest in any and all photographs and video or audio recordings of or

including my image or voice, made by any of the Released Parties during my Activities with the Released

Parties, including, but not limited to, the right to use such photographs or recordings for any purpose and to any

royalties, proceeds or other benefits derived from them.

Other. I, the Volunteer, expressly agree that this Release is intended to be as broad and inclusive as permitted

by the laws of the state where the Activities take place. I further agree that in the event any clause or provision

of this Release shall be held to be invalid by any court of competent jurisdiction, the invalidity of such clause or

provision shall not otherwise affect the remaining clauses or provisions of this Release, which shall continue to

be enforceable. Further, a waiver of a right under this Release does not prevent the exercise of any other right

To express my understanding of an agreement with this Release, I sign here with a witness.

Volunteer:

Name (please print): ______________________________ Signature: _________________________________

Address: ____________________________________________________________________________________

Phone: (H) ________________________________(C/W) _____________________________________________

E-mail: _______________________________________________ Date of Birth: _____/______/_________

Place of Employment or Retired from: _________________________________________________________

If you are affiliated with a faith community and would like to share that affiliation:

_____________________________

EMERGENCY CONTACT INFORMATION

Name (please print): _________________________________________Relationship:________________________

Phone: (H) ____________________________________(C/W)______________________________________________

P a g e | 2

vii

Release and Waiver of Liability for Minors

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY!

THIS IS A LEGAL DOCUMENT THAT AFFECTS YOUR LEGAL RIGHTS!

IMPORTANT: If the Volunteer is less than 18 years of age, all parents or guardians must

also sign this Release and Waiver of Liability with a witness. If only one parent or

guardian executes this Release on behalf of a Volunteer who is under 18 years of age, then

the undersigned parent or guardian of the Volunteer hereby covenants, warrants,

represents and agrees that he or she is executing this Release on behalf of, and as an

agent for, any other individual who may be a parent or guardian of the Volunteer, and

that by executing this Release, the undersigned is binding himself/herself, the Volunteer,

and any other parent or guardian of the Volunteer, and all of their heirs, executors,

personal representatives, assigns and estates to this Release.

Parent/Guardian: Name (please print): _______________________ Signature: _____________________

Address:

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

Parent/Guardian: Name (please print): ________________________ Signature: ____________________

Address:

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

Waiver Revised 1/16/2014

1

CONSTRUCTION TOOLS LIST

Adjustable Wrench

Axe

Broom

Bucket for Painting

C Clamp

Caulk Gun

Chalk Line

Circular Saw

Compressor and Nail Gun

Coping Saw

Cordless Drill

Drill

Drywall Drill

Drywall Square

Dust Pan

Extension Cord

Finish Nailer

Flat Shovel

Floor Mop

Framing Nailer

2

Generator

Ground Rod Driver

Hammer

Hose

Jig Saw

Ladder

Laminate Flooring Kit

Laser Level

Level

Machete for cutting sod

Maddox

Marking Paint

Measuring Tape

Miter(Chop) Saw

Mixing Drill (Mixing Bit)

Nail Apron

Needle Nose Pliers

Paddle Bit

Paint Brush

Painting Roller

3

Paint Scraper

Portable Band Saw

Post Hole Digger

Ratchet Set

Reciprocating Saw

Red Chalk Line

Roller (Landscaping)

Roller Extender

Roller Pan

Router

Rubber Gloves

Safety Glasses

Screw Gun

Screwdriver

Sharpened Pencils

Shiglevator

Shop Vacuum

Shovel

Skilsaw

Sledgehammer

4

Snips

Speed Square

Spud Bar

Square Drive Bit

Stapler

Stir Stick

Straightedge

Table Saw

Tapes

Trim Nailer

Utility Knife

Vinyl Puller

Wheelbarrow

5

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS LIST

Base Board

Bathroom Hardware

Blind

Caulk

Door Knob

Door Stopper

Door

Finish Nail

Galvanized Flashing

Galvanized Nail

Hardie Board

Insulation

Joist Hanger Nail

Lumber

Mailbox Post

Mailbox

Mason String

Mulch

Nail

Oriented Stand Board (OSB)

6

Paint

Pine Straw

Rebar

Rigid Foam

Ring Shank Nail

Roof Truss

Roofing Nail

Screw

Shelving

Shingle (3 Tab)

Silicone Adhesive

Sill Seal

Sod

Spray Foam

Staples

Subfloor Adhesive

Threaded Rod

Treated Plywood

Truss Specified Hurricane Clips

Vinyl Siding

7

Vinyl Soffit

Bolt/Nut/Washer

Weather Strip

Weathermate Tape

Windows

Wire Rebar Chairs

Wood Shims

8

CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE OVERVIEW

Getting Permit

Site Work

•Survey Lot & Pin

•Install Power Pole

Footing & Foundation

•Dig & Pour Footings

•Build Crawlspace

•Foundation Inspection

Framing & Siding

•Wall Framing

•Roof Framing

Exterior Finish

•Doors & Windows Installation

•Vinyl Siding

Roofing

•Roof Shingles Plumbing & HVAC

(Sub Contractor)

Electrical

(Sub Contractor)

Drywall & Insulation

Interior Finish

•Doors installation

•Painting

•Flooring

•Hardware Installation

Landscaping Punchlist

Pre-Construction During - Construction

Post-Construction

9

PRE-CONSTRUCTION

Permit This is a document that must be obtained from the county in order to approve building a home at a specific location. It contains a detailed set of plans for the house being built. The permit is attached to a permit box that is placed prominently at the front of the property. Permits are used as tracking devices by the inspection department to verify that state codes and regulations are being adhered to throughout the building process. As each inspection occurs, the inspector will place a sticker on the permit indicating the type of inspection and a pass/fail notation.

Build Schedules

When a new home is in the planning stage, a build schedule is developed. The build schedule is the daily and Saturday tasks to be performed in the order needed. There are three factors that can impact the schedule once the build is started—sub-contractors, inspectors, and the weather. Once the schedule is set, the Saturday and some daily tasks are loaded into a schedule so that the Volunteer Coordinator can begin to recruit volunteers for each phase of construction. Three types of volunteers are needed—the weekday crew (who have the most experience), volunteers with a mixed amount of experience, and “homeowners in progress” (who are in the process of getting a Habitat home and are working on “Sweat Equity” hours.

Sample Habitat Build Schedule Address: TBD

Week Task No. of Volunteer Needed

1 Dig Footing 30

2 Sub-Contractor

3 Floor System 30

4 Wall Raising 30

5 Sheath Roof 25

6 Misc. Framing & Install Shingles 25

7 Vinyl Siding 30

8 Vinyl Siding II 18

9 & 10 Sub-Contractor

11 Paint 20

12 Porches & Hardware 20

13 & 14 Sub-Contractor

15 Clean-up/Landscape 15

16 Dedication 0

10

Survey Lot Before starting to build, a surveyor will come and place markers at the four corners of the lot to ensure they are within the proper setbacks according to the city/ county zoning. The surveyor may or may not also pin the corners of where the home will sit on the property (Depending on the lot size, setbacks or other factors). These pins will be used to dig the footings.

Laying Out the House Tools

Cordless Drill

Hammers

Laser Level/ Transit

Marking Paint

Sledge Hammers

Skilsaw

Materials

1 ½” Roof Nails

2x4’s Cut into 4’ Stakes

2x4x14 Lumber

500’ Masons String

” Screws

How To: 1. If the lot has not been surveyed, then locate property corners. 2. Put up a string along the front and side property lines to

establish a fixed point to measure from. 3. Refer to the drawings and mark set-backs on the ground with

marking paint, then measure house dimensions and mark house corners.

4. Lay out 2x4 Batter Boards around the perimeter of the house 5. Drive 4’ Stakes into the ground at each corner and end of each

Batter Board. Stakes should be driven down until stable in ground and close to plumb. 6. Using the Laser Level/ Transit determine the lowest point of the existing ground level.

Mark 30” above this point and reset Level (Mark Story-pole on Transit) for this point. 7. Mark a level mark on EACH stake at this 30” Mark. (This will be a level point around the

house and will represent the top of the block). 8. Using the 3” Screws attach 2x4 Lumber to stakes, so that the top of the 2x4 is flush with

level line established on each stake. 9. Again referring to the Drawings, mark the location of the Exterior walls of the house.

Using 1½” screws put up strings for the 4 perimeter walls.

10. Check that these four strings are square by measuring diagonally across the corners (these two measurements should be within a 1/8th of an inch.) Make adjustments to the string locations to create a perfect rectangle.

11

11. Measure the remaining walls so that each masonry wall is marked on the batter boards,

then put up strings for each of these walls. Put final string up to represent a row of piers down the center of the house.

12. Using the Marking Paint, paint the ground to determine where volunteers are to dig the footer. The marks should be 24” apart and located at each masonry wall. (Be sure that they are marked on the correct side of the string so that the block will be centered in the footer.)

Install Temporary Power Pole Tools

Shovel

Post Hole Digger

Level

Ground Rod Driver

Materials

Power Pole (from Construction Shop)

26’ Ground Rods

3) Ground Rod Clamps

6’ - #6 Bare Ground Wire

How To: 1. Locate the permanent power pole (the tall

power pole on site). 2. Dig a hole a few feet away from the permanent

power pole (6” wide x 24” deep). 3. Put the temporary power pole in the hole with the outlets facing the future house. 4. Use a level to make the power pole level front to back and side to side. 5. Fill dirt in around the power pole and tamp (compress) it. 6. T-pole must be braced if it is across the street from main power pole. 7. Use the ground rod driver to drive the 6’ ground rods into the ground (one a few inches

behind the power pole and the other 6’ away). 8. Once the ground rod sticks out only a few inches from the ground, attach the wire at the

back of the power pole to the ground rod using the proper clamp and then attach the bare ground wire to the other rod using another clamp at each end.

12

13

DURING CONSTRUCTION

Footing & Foundation

Dig and Pour Footings (The 1ST Saturday) Footings are dug around the perimeter of the house, normally 10-20” deep and 2’ wide. If the footings slope, a bulkhead must be built (a plywood dam). After the footing is dug it must be inspected by a local building inspector.

After inspection 8” of concrete is poured into the bottom of the footing. This forms the bedrock on which to build a blocked foundation and crawlspace. Concrete is ordered from a local factory and mixed to a minimum compressive strength of 2500 psi. Footings are then poured with volunteers assuring that all surfaces are level and DO NOT rest above the height of the indicated grade stakes.

Tools

Shovels

Axes

Maddox

Portable Band Saw

Generator/ T-Pole

Footing Box Contain Rebar Tying Tools, Hammers and Tape Measures Materials

#5 Rebar

Wire Rebar Chairs

Threaded Rods

Loop ties

How To: 1. Instruct Volunteers to dig all the necessary footings which are pre-painted in the

necessary locations to proper depths. a. Depth is determined by measuring at lowest point, then determining the depth

in and increment of 8”( to allow for 8” Concrete in the footer and 8” Masonry Block)- ei: if the lot is semi-level and the lowest point measures 30” you would need to dig to 40” through-out.

b. If steps are required in the footer mark and dig these last.

c. Verify that all footers are the necessary depth and 24” at bottom and that all piers are to the proper depth and 32”x32”.

2. Place wire chairs in the bottom of the completed footer every 4’

14

3. Place and Tie the #5 rebar to the Chairs, so that there are 2 pieces continuous around the entire footer. Corners should cross and tied.

NO REBAR SHOULD END LESS THAN 3” FROM ANY SIDE OF THE FOOTER.

4. Place 90 degree bends in all corners and Tie them in place.

5. Mark and drive #4 Grade Stakes within 24” of all corners and every 7’ throughout entire footer. (Should be driven to exact depth of footer – measuring from the string to an increment of 8” + or – 1/8”.

6. Tie Threaded Rods upright at each grade stake. 7. Cut necessary Plywood Dams and install them at

proper height.

Footing Checklist

☐ Ditches 24” wide

☐ Ditches at predetermined depth

☐ Step if needed correct

☐ #5 Rebar has a min. of 25” lap

☐ Corner bars installed and tied correctly

☐ #5 Rebar grid in each pier

☐ #4 grade stakes set at pre-determined depth

☐ Threaded rods installed

☐ Site cleaned up

☐ TOOLS ORGANIZED AND PUT AWAY

Safety • If unsure about how to do a task, ask the site supervisor • Be aware of others around you when chopping roots • Always wear eye protection when cutting rebar • Know the location of First Aid Kit and Water • Drink Plenty of Water, especially on hot days

Crawl Space Foundation We generally always build on a closed-crawlspace, which enables us to elevate the home in order to provide proper grading and water drainage away from the home, as well as place the HVAC system in a conditioned space. A closed-crawlspace foundation typically consists of footers and 8” block walls around the perimeter of the home footprint and 16”x16” piers spaced 7’ apart (on center) wherever a loadbearing girder will be located. There are no vents in the foundation and the

crawlspace is sealed with plastic and to minimize an infiltration of water or air.

15

Framing

The framing refers to the wood structure of the home. At our affiliate we typically frame all the floors with 2x10’’s, all the walls with 2x4’s and 2x6’s , and use trusses to build the roof. This however can vary on occasion depending on the needs of particular house that may built with floor trusses or a floor that may need additional dimensional lumber for a larger spanned floor system.

Floor Framing

Floor system (second Saturday) The floor system is built and bolted to the block foundation and supports the rest of the structure of the house. The floor is to be framed with 2x10 Pine Lumber which can span up to 12 feet without any additional bracing or support. Any span over 12 must be supported by a girder built from (3)2x10’s nailed with 12d nails in a pattern of a row of 3 nails every 16”. This girder is typically built to be installed below the floor joist, but occasionally a home site could demand that the girder be built so that it is even with the joists ( this is called a raised-girder) and will require additional support –either joist hangers or a ledger board – be added to bear the weight of the floor joists.

Tools

Adjustable Wrenches

Band saw

Cordless Drill

Circular Saw

Hammers

Paddle Bits

Pencils

Tape Measures

Rakes

Squares

Shovels

Wheel barrows

Materials

5/8” Washers and nuts

5 ½” Sill Seal (can double up 3 ½” sill seal)

Treated 2”x 8” Lumber (14’ or 16’ lengths)

Non-Treated 2”x8” Lumber (14’ or 16’ lengths)

Joist Hangers and Nails

2x10 Lumber

Galvanized 12d Nails

Sill Plates

16

How To: 1. Level dirt/ move sand 2. Start from the front of the foundation (not including the porch) and place the treated

2”x8” sill plate next to the foundation wall and mark where the bolts are on both sides using a speed square and a pencil.

3. Drill a 1” hole for each bolt by measuring the distance from the outside of the wall to the middle of the bolt.

4. Before placing the sill over the bolts, place the sill seal on the masonry wall. (This is for insulation, air sealing and bugs.)

5. Place the sill plate (with the sill seal underneath) on the foundation wall with the bolts coming through the drilled ¾” holes.

a. Ensure that all sill plates are flush with the outside of the wall.

b. Make sure that no sill-plates end over any access holes/ openings in the foundation wall. This is NOT allowed by code.

6. After placing the treated boards continuously around the foundation of the house and porches, repeat the process with the non-treated 2”x8” so that there is a double sill plate around the entire house.

a. This second sill, needs ONLY to be installed on the house and storage room. IT IS NOT TO BE INSTALLED ON THE PORCHES.

b. You do not have to install a second piece of sill seal.

c. Overlap all the corner (all seam). 7. After placing the second not-treated 2”x8” over the

treated 2”x8”, nail them together using 12d galvanized nails; 2 nails at every sixteen inches apart.

8. Place washers and nuts on the top of each bolt and tighten them with a ratchet.

Girder beams/support beam Materials

• 2x10 Lumber • 16 d Nails

How to: 1. Measure from the front pier to the center of the third

pier and cut 2- 2x10’s to meet in the center. 2. Cut 1 beam to span just one pier section. 3. Cut the remaining sections to span from the ends of the

step 2 beam to the center of the remaining piers on ending against the further foundation wall.

17

4. Nail all the beams together with 16d nails. 5. Cut the treated 2x8 scraps into 16” lengths and place them on the piers (2 scraps per

pier placed perpendicular to where the beam will go). 6. Place the beam onto the treated blocks and center it between both side walls.

7. The beam should end within a ¼” from the front and back wall. 8. Use a string to determine that the beam is both straight and level. Then using the shims

lift the beam where needed to bring it up to the string height. Nail the beam using a toe-nail technique at each pier.

a. If building a raised girder this beam will be built with 3 – 2”x10” boards. Then a 2”x2” ledger board must be nailed along the bottom of the girder with 3- 16d nails every 4 inches.

Floor joists/ trusses (I-beams) Materials

• 2x10 Lumber/ Floor Joists • 16d Nails • 8d Nails

How To:

1. Mark the sill plates and the girder beam front to back at 16” on center. (mark first stud at 15 ¼”)

2. On the two load bearing walls, chalk a line 1 ½” in from the outside of the wall from front to back.

3. Place Crowned 2x10’s on 16” on-center marks and toe-nail them, using 16d nails, to the sill plates so that the end one is flush with the line and the other end is resting on the girder beam using 16d nails (with crown upward).

4. Place a 2x10 band board on the front of the joists, so that it is even with the sill plate and flush masonry wall.

a. All band board should be cut to break in the center of a floor joist.

b. Any joist ending over an access hole in the foundation will need to be hung (with a Simpson Joist Hanger) from a double 2”x10” band board

5. Use a speed square to ensure the floor joist are plumb, nail them to the band board using 3 -16d nails.

18

6. At each end of floor use 2x10 scraps to double-up joists that end on the block wall. 7. Once all the joists are in place cover any porch areas with galvanized metal and ensure ALL joist hangers are in place over crawl space openings. 8. Using Treated 2x8 Lumber use this same process to install the floor joists of the porches.

Floor system checklist

☐ Batter boards removed

☐ Concrete cleaned from top of block walls

☐ Dirt leveled inside and outside house

☐ Excess sand moved under house and spread out

☐ Threaded rods cleaned with wire brush

☐ Pressure Treated 2x8 installed on block wall

☐ Pine 2x8 installed on top of treated

☐ NO BREAKS IN MUDSILL OVER ANY OPENING

☐ Treated blocks on piers

☐ Mudsill bolted down and nailed off, 2-12d galv. every 16” oc.

☐ Triple Girder with all breaks on a pier

☐ Girder nailed off, 3 16d every 16” oc.

☐ Line snapped 1 ½” on each side of house to set joist

☐ Lay off mudsill 16” OC.

☐ Girder laid off 16” OC.

☐ Floor joist crowned and marked

☐ Floor joist nailed. 3 in the end. 2 toe nailed and 2 high @ girder

☐ Install band-board. 3 nails each joist. Toe nailed every 16”

☐ Front and back bands doubled can use scrap blocks for double

☐ Galv. flashing around porch area

☐ Treated 2x8 for porches installed. Bolted every 3’8” (use cutoff all thread rod)

☐ Porch floor joist 16 or 24” OC

☐ Post plates and post installed. Notch post prior to setting

☐ SITE CLEANED UP AND ORGANIZED

☐ TOOLS ORGANIZED AND PUT AWAY

Safety • Always wear eye protection when using a circular saw • Boards have 2 ends. Be aware of surroundings around you when carrying material • Remove all nails from lumber to prevent someone from stepping on them • Keep the site clean to prevent accidents from happening • Know the location of First Aid Kit and Water • Drink plenty of water, especially on hot days • If unsure about how to do a task, ask the site supervisor

19

Subfloor (Advantech) Tools

• Sledgehammer • Hammers • Caulk Guns • Circular Saw • Chalk Lines • T-Square • Pencils • Nail Guns • Compressor

Materials • Advantech • Subfloor Adhesive • 8d Ring Shank Nails • Scrap Lumber for Sledgehammer

How To: 1. Measure 48” from the side of the foundation with the

band board on and mark a chalk line at this distance (from the front to the back).

2. Put glue on the top of the floor joists from the outside of the band board to the chalk line.

3. Lay the sheet of Advantech front to back (the first piece should be facing with the tongue facing the outside wall of the house). Nail with 8d ring shank every 6-8 inches.

4. Start the second row with a 4’ sheet (to avoid having the seams match up).

5. Use a sledgehammer to drive the tongue into the groove. 6. Nail each sheet appropriately using RING SHANK 8d nails. 7. Continue to add additional rows being sure to stagger the seams of each new row of

Advantech.

Wall Framing

Layout for walls and pre-building wall parts Tools

• Pencils • Red Chalk Line • Cut List for house plan • Miter/Chop Saw • Tape Measures • T-Square

20

Materials • 2x4x14’ and 2x6x14’ Lumber • Component Cut Sheet for Home Plan (see below) • 2x4 and 2x6 Lumber for Ladders, Tees and Jacks • 2x10 Lumber for Headers • 2” Rigid Foam for Headers • 16d Nails

How To: 1. Use the drawings of the house layout 2. Measure the length and the width of the installed floor

system to ensure that it matches that of the drawings. (Make modifications if necessary)

3. Measure 5½” in from the perimeter of the floor system and chalk a line all the way around the floor (to mark where the outside walls will be).

4. Start on one exterior wall and use the house layout sheet to determine the distances between the interior walls. Measure, Mark and Chalk all the walls.

5. Starting with the Exterior Walls, Cut first top and bottom plate at necessary length.

a. All plates must be cut to end on stud layout No plates can end within 24” of a wall intersection

6. Using2-3 8d nails, nail the bottom plate in place. 7. Lie the top plate next to the bottom and mark all

framing members in the wall (i.e.: Studs Window Jacks, Door Jacks, Tee’s, etc.)

a. Layout walls to be: Exterior Walls -24” On Center/ Interior Walls – 24” On Center.

b. Studs layout should be marked so that plywood will break on stud pattern without being cut (mark first stud at 23 ¼”)

c. Door Openings should be marked so that Rough Opening is 2” larger than the door size (36” door = 38” Rough Opening).

d. Window Openings should be marked to fall on stud pattern, if possible, and should be marked so that the Rough Opening is the same as the window size. ( a 3’0”x5’0” window fits in a Rough Opening of 3’0”x5’0”)

8. Using 2-3 more 8d nails, now nail the top and bottom plates together. 9. Continue with this method until all walls are cut and laid-out. 10. Label Top Plate, Bottom Plate and Subfloor of ALL wall sections so that when removed

you can easily identify where each wall should be placed.

21

Building Wall Parts: 11. Using the “Wall Cut Sheet”, Cut lumber to proper lengths 12. Lay out components in the correct places. 13. Working from the top towards the bottom, begin securing it together with 16d common

nails as required. 14. While progressing from the top to the bottom, make sure to check these items:

a. Hammer nails completely flush to the wood. b. Work the wood to get necessary components flush. c. Everything is Labeled Properly

22

Framing parts – cut sheet Site Location:

QUANTITY ITEM LENGTH EXAMPLE

_______. LADDER WALL TEE ___. 2”x 6”x93” ___. 2”x 4”x22 ½” Spacer ___. 2”x 8”x22 ½” Spacer

_______. INTERIOR WALL TEE ___. 2”x4”x 93”

___. 2”x4”x16” Spacer

_______. BEAM POCKET ___. 2”x 6”x 93”

___. 2”x 6”x 83 ¾”

_______. INTERIOR CORNER ___. 2”x 4”x93”

___. 2”x 4”x16” Spacer

_______. EXTERIOR DOOR JACK ___. 2”x 6”x 93”

___. 2”x 6”x 80¾”

_______. EXTERIOR DOOR

HEADERS ___. 2”x 10” x 41” ___. 2” x 10” x 37” w/ 2” Foam Spacer ___. 2” x6” x 41” Top and Bottom

23

_______. WINDOW JACKS ___. 2”x 6”x 93” ___. 2” x 6” x 83 ¾”

_______. WINDOW HEADERS ___. 2” x 10” x 39”

w/ 2” Foam Spacer

_______. WINDOW SILL PLATES ___. 2”x 6”x 36”

_______. WINDOW CRIPLE

STUDS ___. 2”x 6”x 22” ___. 2”x 6”x 46”

_______. INTERIOR DOOR

JACKS ___. 2”x4”x 93” ___. 2”x4”x 81 ¾”

_______. INTERIOR DOOR

HEADERS ___. 2”x4”x 41” (3/0) ___. 2”x4”x 37” (2/8) ___. 2”x4”x 29” (2/0) ___. 2”x4”x 65” (5/0) ___. 2”x4”x . ___. 2”x4”x .

24

Raising the walls (normally 3rd Saturday) Tools

• Large Glue Guns • 6’ Levels • Circular Saw • Chop Saw • Tape Measures • Hammers • Reciprocating Saw (wood & metal blades) • Chalk Lines • Drywall Squares • Sledgehammer • 6’ Stepladder • 8’ Stepladder

Materials • Sheets of OSB/ Zip Board • 2x4 and 2x6 Studs • 14’ and 16’ 2x4’s and 2x6’ • 2”x10” (for each porch beam) • 16d Regular Nails • 8d Ring Shanks (for OSB) • Glue • Sill Seal

How To: 1. Nail all 2x4 studs into the plates using 2 16d nails (one ¾” from the bottom and one ¾”

from the top). 2. Nail all 2x4 wall parts in necessary places being

sure to separate Interior and Exterior Door Jacks. 3. Place sill seal under exterior wall and secure

with roof nails every 4’. 4. Glue the floor under all interior walls before

lifting them (but do not glue the through door openings).

5. Now lay wall next to its proper location and arrange volunteers along one side and lift the wall so that it is sitting in its proper place. Be sure to:

a. Line up on chalk line b. Make sure it is not overhanging the band board on either end. c. Align it with the Chalk line that marks its location. d. Nail it with two 16d nails every 2 feet.

6. Repeat this for all Exterior Walls. 7. Now splitting the group into teams is recommended:

25

a. One to build the remaining Interior Walls on the deck.

b. One to begin sheathing the Exterior Walls.

c. One to install any window sills and cripples.

d. One to cut and install Double-Top Plate 8. Sheath the walls with OSB/ Zip Board by nailing

them with 8d ring shank nails at 6” apart on the top and the bottom plates and at 8” apart on the wall studs.

a. Place 16d nails between masonry foundation and treated sill plate to sit OSB sheets on when nailing them.

b. Be sure to put a bead of caulk at House Corners and around the sill plate before installing sheathing.

c. Lift each sheet into place and set it on the nails placed between the masonry.

d. Nail each sheet in place using 8d nails. Each sheet should be nailed in place according to local building code. In New Hanover and Coastal Pender County:

- Nail Every 3 inches at every inside and outside corner. - Nail Every 6 inches at every seam. - Nails Every 8 inches at each member throughout “field” of OSB Sheet. - Nail every 3 inches around perimeter of house into non-treated sill plate - Nail every 3 inches around perimeter of house into treated sill plate with

galvanized 8d nails - Nail Every 3 inches above and below any horizontal seam in Sheathing. - Repeat around the entire house.

Double top plates How To:

1. Install the double-plates on the top plates of the walls as a way to tie perpendicular walls together for strength.

2. Use the 2x4 lumber to cross over the breaks where multiple walls meet. Cut 2x4 lumber to lap opposite from that of first top plate. (Where one buts into another, now overlap seams to tie all walls together.

3. Nail the double top- plates with 16d nails either directly above the studs or centered above the wall cavity. Two parallel nails every 16-24” is be adequate.

4. When installing Ensure: a. There are No breaks within 24” of Interior Walls. b. There are No Breaks within 24” of Top plate seams below. c. All walls are straight and plumb

26

Build and Install Porch Beam How To:

1. Measure the length required for the porch beam. 2. Use two 2”x10”’s for beam. 3. Measure the distance between 3” in from the front

wall of the porch and 4 ½” in from the exterior of the front wall of the house. Build two beam arms at this length.

4. Join the beams together.

Roof Framing

Truss preparation and setting Tools

• Miter Saw • Measuring Tapes • Chalk Lines • Hammers • Scrap 2x4 (for 1 ½” spacing) • 8’ Ladders • Extension Ladders • Walk Boards

Materials • OSB/ Zip Board • 16d Nails • 8d Ring shanks • 2”x4”x16’ Lumber • Roof Trusses and Layout Packet

27

Preparation

1. Layout the side walls at 24” on center per truss specs. (the trusses at either end should be spaced at 21 ¾” to allow for space for the drywall).

2. Ensure that there are sufficient 2x6’s to make the gable stops.

3. Nail the 2x6 gable stops at the back and the front of the house on top of the cap plate 1 ½” in from the outside of the wall top plate (if there are front to back trusses, do both sides instead).

4. Nail a 2x6 gable stop on the porch beam 1 ½” from the outside of the cap plate (for side to side trusses).

5. Move the front gable truss to the side since it will go on last. How To:

1. Refer to truss drawings to identify proper order of trusses. 2. Start with the first gable truss (on the back or the side,

depending on the house plan). 3. Lift the gable truss into place and set against the outside of

the gable stop. 4. Secure and level the gable truss. Nail it to the gable stop with

16d nails. Plumb and secure it with temporary bracing. 5. Lift the second regular truss and set it at the next mark, next

to the gable truss. Nail into place using (3) 16d nails toenailed into the top plate of the wall.

6. Continue to set trusses until you reach the front (or other side) of the house, and then lift the second gable truss and set it in place.

7. Nail a 2x4x14 to the top of the trusses – within 3’ of the peak.

8. Start at the back and move toward the front by nailing the 2x4 to each truss using 2 16d nails.

9. When one 2x4 ends, overlap the next 2x4 and continue as you set each truss.

28

Barge rafters/ fly rafters (overhangs) Tools

• Skilsaw • Miter Saw • Tape Measures • Sharpened Pencils • Reciprocating Saw (wood & metal blades) • Chalk Lines • Hammers • Extension Ladder • 8’ Step Ladder

Materials • 20 Sheets of OSB • 14’ or 16’ 2x4’s • (2) 2”x10”x16’ (for porch beam) • (2) 2”x10”x12’ (for porch beam) • 16d Regular Nails • 8d Ring Shanks (for OSB) • 2x4 Materials • 16d Nails

How To:

1. Work with a team of volunteers. 2. Cut 9” blocks out of scrap 2x4. 3. Cut four 2x4’s at the lengths and angle of the top cord of the trusses 4. Mark each 2x4 to have blocking at every 24” 6. Nail the 9” blocks at 24” on center. 7. Nail the ladder to the Gable truss after it has been sheathed with OSB with (2) 16d nails

every 16” along the end of the truss.

29

Fascia boards How To:

1. Nail a 2x6x14 to the bottom overhang of the trusses. 2. Start at the back and move toward the front by nailing the 2x6 to each truss using 2 16d nails. 3. When one 2x6 ends, it should break in the center of the truss-tail, so that the next 2x6 can be nailed to the same truss and you can continue the fascia board in a straight line. 4. If the overhang is not straight attach a string at each end and tap the fascia board in or

out to straighten it.

Sheathing

Roof Sheathing (Typically the 4th Saturday) Tools

• Circular Saw • Chalk Lines • Extension Ladder • Pencils • Tape Measures • T-Square • Hammers • 8’ Step Ladder

Materials:

• ½” OSB/ Zip Board • 8d Nails • Zip Tape

How To: 1. Measure 46 1/2” from the end of the truss (not the

fascia board) chalk line a line from across all the trusses. 2. Starting at the back of the house, determine the

starting length for the first sheet of OSB. (Normally the first sheet is 7’ and should ALWAYS break in the center of truss).

3. Using the Chalk line to determine the top of the first row of sheathing, position the sheathing and nail it to the trusses using 8d nails.

4. Before nailing the sheet you should pull measurements on the trusses to make sure that they continue to land at 24” On Center – You do this by hooking the tape measure on the last fixed truss and marking the sheet of OSB at 24” O.C.

30

5. Using 8d nails, nail the OSB/ Zip Board to the roof trusses. a. NAILING PATTERN: All sheets should be nailed with 8d nails @ every 6” along

the edges and every 8” through the middle. And the roof should be nailed every 6” along the gable ends.

6. The second row of sheathing will start with a piece of OSB that will break on a different truss than the first row (normally if the first row is 7’ the second is 3’). It is advised that you continue to pull measurements for the trusses on this row as well and continue as in the previous step.

7. When you reach the peak this row should be cut to be 1” short of the peak to allow for a 2” ridge vent to be placed of the peak.

8. If using Zip Board, the final step is to tape ALL the seams with Zip Tape. If OSB then you need to apply tar paper.

9. AFTER ROOF IS ENTIRELY SHEATED YOU MAY REMOVE ALL TEMPORARY BRACING AND INSTALL PERMANENT TRUSS BRACING.

Miscellaneous Framing

Deadwood installation Tools

• Hammers • Tape Measures • Utility Knives • Pencils • Circular Saw • Compressor and Nail Gun • 6’ Step Ladder

Materials • 8d Nails • 16d Nails • 2x4 Lumber

How to: 1. Take down all interior bracing. 2. Put in the deadwood so that it overhangs 1 ½” for the all ceiling and corner drywall

screws. a. Nail the wood on top of the top plates of the walls that run parallel to the trusses

so that there is a place to nail/screw drywall at the ends of the room. b. Nail the board with 16d nails every 12-16”.

3. Cut out all of the door thresholds from the bottom plates.

31

Truss bracing and rat run installation Tools

• Hammers • Tape Measures • Utility Knives • Pencils • Circular Saw • Compressor and Nail Gun • 6’ Step Ladder

Materials • 8d Nails • 16d Nails • 2x4 Lumber

How to: 1. Nail the 2x4x14’s along the trusses in the attic per the manufacturer’s specifications. 2. Run the 2x4 across the top of the bottom cord of the trusses from the end of the attic

deck to the front of the house. 3. Use a tape measure to ensure that each truss is at 24” on center (so that the trusses line

up during drywall hanging). 4. Nail in place using 2 – 16d nails at every truss.

Hurricane Clips Installation Tools

• Hammers • Needle Nose Pliers • 4’ Ladders

Materials • 1 ½”Joist Hanger Nails • Truss Specified Hurricane Clips (Either MS 12 or Simpson 2.5)

How To: 1. Hold Hurricane clip alongside of each truss and connected to the top plates of the wall

system. a. Be sure before nailing that joist hanger is sitting in proper place and will not

interfere when hanging the ceiling drywall. 2. Nail in place with 1 ½” Joist hanger nails; EVERY hole in joist hanger should be nailed.

a. It is suggested to use the needle nose pliers to hold the joist hanger nails when starting the nails – especially when nailing through the gusset plate.

3. Install a hurricane clip on EVERY trusses, including any dormers and porches. (REFER TO TRUSS DRAWINGS FOR PROPER HANGER TYPE AND LOCATION.)

4. Install one 2.5 clip to every other stud on truss and walls, connecting stud to top plate.

32

Blocking

Cabinet Blocking Tools

Hammers

Tape measures

Pencils

Circular saw

6’ Step ladder

Materials • 2x4 Lumber • 16d Nails

How To:

1. Measure and mark block locations, at centerline, at 34”, 54” and 84” according to size and style of the cabinet.

2. Nail the 2x4 into the wall system according to the previously marked locations, trying to keep blocking flush with the inside edge of studs.

3. Install blocking at the top of all base cabinets, and at the top and bottom of all wall cabinets.

Linen Closet & Pantry Blocking Tools

Hammers

Tape measures

Pencils

Circular saw

6’ Step ladder

Materials • 2x4 Lumber • 16d Nails

How To:

1. Measure and mark block locations, at centerline, at 39”, 55” and 71” for linen closet and 35”, 49” and 63” for Pantry.

2. Nail the 2x4 into the wall system according to the previously marked locations, trying to keep blocking flush with the inside edge of studs.

3. Install blocking at the top of all base cabinets, and at the top and bottom of all wall cabinets.

33

Closet & Laundry Room Blocking Tools

Hammers

Tape measures

Pencils

Circular saw

6’ Step ladder

Materials • 2x4 Lumber • 16d Nails

How To: 1. Measure and mark block locations, at centerline, at 65” for closet and 57” for laundry

room. 2. Nail the 2x4 into the wall system according to the previously marked locations, trying to

keep blocking flush with the inside edge of studs. 3. Install blocking at the top of all base cabinets, and at the top and bottom of all wall

cabinets.

Exterior Finish

Windows and Exterior Doors Installation

Windows Tools

• Hammers • Caulk Guns • Cordless Drill • 2’ Level • Utility Knives • Tape Measures • 6’ Step Ladder • 8’ Step Ladder

Materials • Windows • Shims • Windows and Doors Caulk • 1 ½” Roofing Nails • Window Wrap Material • 5” Weathermate Tape • Door Pans

34

Preparation 1. Cut sheathing with a Reciprocating saw and nail

sheathing with 8d nails. 2. Place the 4” Weather tape at the bottom of the

window opening.

How To: 1. Place the window in the opening to determine the fit. 2. Place the level on the bottom of the window and shim as needed. 3. Remove the window and caulk the sides and the top. 4. Place the window in the opening (level it and shim) so that it has a

¼” gap around the entire window. 5. Nail the window in each slot using 1 ¾” roofing nails. 6. Put the 4” Window Tape around the window so that it covers the

heads of all nails. Install first on the sides, and then on the top (each piece of tape should extend 6” past the edges of the window).

Exterior doors Tools

• Hammers • Cordless Drill • 6’ Level • Caulk Gun

Materials • Exterior Doors • Shims • Silicone Adhesive • Window and Door Caulk • 1 ¼” Roofing Nails • Galvanized Flashing • 16d Finish Nails • 8d Finish Nails

35

How To: 1. Flash the doorsill by bending a piece of Galvanized Flashing or install factory door-pan. 2. Test-fit the door and make sure it swings easily and in the correct direction. 3. Remove the door from the opening. 4. Run a bead of sealant around the door opening and across the

bottom on the flashing where the threshold will sit. 5. Set the frame in its opening.

a. From the inside, adjust the frame so that there’s a gap of about 1/8” all the way around the door (so that the weather-stripping on the door frame can seal it properly).

b. Check to make sure door is plumb and level. 6. Secure the door in the opening using 16d finish nails in each

corner of the exterior trim and in the sheathing and studs. 7. Check again that the door can easily open and close. Then, finish

fastening the door with 16d finish nails all the way around the trim. Make sure all nails are 1/8” below the wood surface so they can be hidden with putty.

8. Shim the door at each hinge and Screw the long screws included with the door frame through the hinges and the jamb and into the Stud of the door opening.

9. Shim and nail through the jamb on the lock side next, but avoid the lock and deadbolt area.

Siding

Vinyl installation Tools

• 6’ Step Ladder • 8’ Step Ladder • Box Cutters • Extension Ladder • Hammers • Pencils • Skilsaws • Snips • Speed Squares • Vinyl Cut Template Forms • Walk Boards

Materials • Vinyl Siding • 1 ½” Roofing Nails

36

Preparation: 1. Put on a straight and level starter strip right above the

top of the concrete foundation wall or slab. Do this by nailing through the sheathing and into the bottom of the sill plate. The strip’s bottom edge can extend about 1” over the concrete.

a. Measure up from the underside of the mud sill (not the wall sheathing) and mark the proper height all the way around the house using a chalk line to ensure the starter strip stays level.

b. To secure the starter strip, drive nails into the center of the installation slots every 12-14”. Leave ¼-½” of expansion room between sections of starter strip as you install it. Place the first nail of each piece no more than 4” from the end.

c. At an outside corner: the starter strip must be 1” or more from the vinyl corner trim.

d. At an inside corner: keep the strip 1 ½-2” from the inside corners.

2. Install the corner trim pieces. a. Hold a piece of vinyl corner post against the

sheathed corner of the house and mark the edges of the flange on either side at the top and bottom of the wall.

b. Snap a chalk line between the marks c. Set a corner post ½” down from the soffit and

drive 1 ¾” nails into the slots on either side. d. Hold the corner directly on the chalk lines and drive nails every 12” down to the

bottom of the wall. Keep each nail in the center of its slot. The corner posts should extend 1” below the starter strip and be nailed tight.

3. If the doors and windows don’t have factory-made siding channels, install J-channel trim along the top and sides of the window (to hide the end of the siding). Use a square to mark and cut at the top corners.

a. Leave 1” drain tabs that can be folded down over the window sides (to help channel water down around the window).

**Refer to J-Channel Template on site for proper cuts and Installation techniques. **

How To: 1. Install the siding panels at the bottom and work up.

a. Start against the corner on one side of the house (preferably the back corner). Pull up the first panel, snap it into the starter strip, and slide the end of the panel under the corner trim’s top edge.

b. Keep the panel seated in the starter strip as you drive nails into the wall. The nail heads should stick out from the flange by 1/8” (DO NOT NAIL TIGHT!!).

- Don’t drive nails at the edge of a slot or through the vinyl itself.

37

- Use a utility knife/slot-punch tool to lengthen a slot if it’s not centered over a stud.

c. Check whether you can slide the panel back and forth. If it can’t slide, find and fix the spot it’s hung up on.

d. When you install the siding, leave the panel end about ¼” away from the trim pieces’ inside edge.

e. When you come to an opening or reach the end of a wall, cut a panel to fit it. (Remember to leave room for expansion.) Plan each siding cut so that the cut ends are hidden in the corner posts, in the J-channel trim, or by the factory edge of an overlapping panel. Panels should overlap by at least 1”, but the nailing flanges should always be separated by at least ½”, so cut those back if necessary.

f. Tips: For panels around windows and doors: - Try not to install pieces shorter than 3’ long. - Make sure that the places where siding pieces overlap in different rows

don’t line up. Randomly separate them by two or three feet to avoid creating a staircase pattern.

- If cutting the vinyl siding/ soffit with a saw be sure to turn the saw blade backward.

- Pull each panel up snugly against the locking hem of the previous panel (but don’t stretch it). Make sure each panel can move back and forth horizontally before moving on to the next row.

g. For panels around windows and doors: - For panels around windows and doors measurements must be taken and

pieces cut-to-fit for each window/ door. - If the siding panel under the window needs to be notched more than 1”

to fit the trim, you must fur out/shim the under the window with siding trim.

- To determine the notch’s location in the panel beneath the window, measure from the last piece of siding to the opening and mark it on the panel (and add 1” for the overlap).

- To measure height, lock a scrap of siding into the nail flange of the piece below it, then slide the scrap against the window edge. Mark where the scrap hits the bottom of the window and transfer the mark to the panel you’re cutting.

- Measure the length of the opening and transfer it to the siding, leaving ¼” on each side for expansion.

38

h. For panels around vents and outlets: - Place the siding panel directly below where it will be installed and mark

the where the sides of the outlet or vent hit the panel. - Move the panel to one side of the box and clip it to the pane just below

the box. Mark where the top and bottom of the outlet or vent hits the panel.

- Outline the cutout where the horizontal and vertical lines intersect. - Cut out the opening with a utility knife.

i. To install the top piece of siding on eave walls: - Measure and Cut to fit allowing for ¼” of expansion and variance. - Install Cut piece so that it locks into the row below and the top rests

comfortable in the J-Channel at top. - Nail tight with White Fascia Nails ever 4’. (DO NOT OVERNAIL THIS PIECE!)

Soffit Different scenario’s call for either Vinyl Soffit or Hardie Board Soffit. We will always use one of these two materials and the Construction Manager will determine which will be used based on the current Building Code requirements and the distance the house sits to the property line.

Soffit installation Tools

• Skilsaw • Hammers • Speed Squares • Pencils • Snips • 8’ Step Ladder • Extension Ladder • Walk Board

Materials • Vinyl Soffit or Hardie Board Soffit • 1 ½” Roofing Nails

Vinyl Soffit Preparation: 1. If the eaves are to be closed with a vinyl soffit, then install a F-channel by nailing it to

the wall of the house, level with the bottom of the Fascia Board 2. Construct a boxed return (called a “bird box”) to create

the nailing surfaces required to bring the soffit of the eave of the house even with the gable end soffit and fascia trim.

a. Make the framing for the boxed return with 2x lumber. This consists of a triangular piece cut to match the roof’s pitch and a straight board that vertically extends to the gable wall.

39

b. Fasten the assembled box return to the bottom edge of the barge rafter and to the back wall

How To: 1. Using snips (or a saw with the blade turned backward) cut the vinyl soffit ¼” shorter

than the measurement of the soffit. 2. Install the first piece by placing the inside edge of the soffit trim (next to the house) in

the F-channel at the top of the gable-end walls. 3. Nail the outside edge of each soffit piece to the 2x4 Fascia Board using a 1 ½” roofing

nail. 4. Continue with each piece (one by one) along the entire roof overhang by locking each

one together and nailing it in place until you reach the end of the soffit overhang. 5. Note: All Gable Soffits should be triple-4 SOLID Soffit and All Eaves should be Triple-4

VENTED Soffit.

Hardie Board Soffit Preparation: 1. If the eaves are to be closed with a Hardie Board soffit,

then install a 2x2 nailer by nailing it to the wall of the house, level with the bottom of the Fascia Board

2. Construct a boxed return (called a “bird box”) to create the nailing surfaces required to bring the soffit of the eave of the house even with the gable end soffit and fascia trim.

a. Make the framing for the boxed return with 2x lumber. This consists of a triangular piece cut to match the roof’s pitch and a straight board that vertically extends to the gable wall.

b. Fasten the assembled box return to the bottom edge of the barge rafter and to the back wall.

How To: 1. Using Hardie Sheers (or a circular saw) cut the vinyl soffit

¼” shorter than the measurement of the soffit. 2. Install the first piece by nailing the inside edge to the 2x2

(next to the house) and nail the outside edge of soffit piece to the 2x4 Fascia Board using a 1 ½” roofing nail.

3. Continue with each piece (one by one) along the entire roof overhang by butting each one together and nailing it in place until you reach the end of the soffit overhang.

4. Note: All Soffits should vented and the holes should be placed toward the outside of the overhang.

40

Crawl Space Door

Tools • Skilsaw • Tapes • Pencils • Miter Box (Chop) Saw

Materials • 1/2” Treated Plywood • 3” Exterior Screws • 2”x2” Treated Lumber • 2” Rigid Foam • ¼” Weatherstrip

How To: 1. Measure the crawl space opening. 2. Cut the treated 2x2’s to fit around the opening like a picture frame. 3. Frame the openings with treated 2x2’s (make sure they sit 2”inside the opening of the

outside of the wall). 4. Cut the ½” Plywood and the Rigid Foam to fit the inside of the frame. 5. Line the outside with ¼” Weather Strip. 6. Glue or Nail the Foam to the back of the Plywood Door Attach the door to the frame

using the 3” Screws.

Interior Finish

Install Interior Doors Tools

Finish Nailers

Hammers

Measuring Tapes

Shims

Levels

Materials

Finish Nails

Doors (and all included materials)

How To: 1. Place the level on the hinge side of the

doorway opening to make sure it is level. 2. Remove all shipping materials.

41

3. Take the door jamb apart into the front and rear sections. 4. Place the front part of the door into the frame. 5. Make sure the reveal (the gap between the door and the frame) is the same all the way

around. 6. Nail the door into the wall on the hinge side. 7. Make sure the reveal is still good. 8. Double-Check for level. 9. Nail the entire door frame. 10. Place and nail shims behind each hinge and in several places on latch side. 11. Fit Back-side of jamb into the slot of the installed door and nail into place.

Interior Painting

House preparation before start painting Tools

Utility Knives

Shop Vacuums

Extension Cords

Brooms

Dust Pan

Caulk Guns

4’ Ladders

Materials

Tubes of White Caulk

Rags

Preparation: 1. Get the OK from the drywall finisher that the house is ready to be prepped. 2. Cut out the excess mud and drywall from the outlet boxes using a utility knife so the

wires will be accessible to the electric team. 3. Wipe excess drywall dust off the ceilings and walls. a. Wear safety goggles, ear plugs, and face masks for this process. 2. Sweep the house with a broom to remove the dust from the floor. Excess dust in the

house can cause bits and bumps in the paint. 4. Vacuum up the remaining dust.

a. Electrical Boxes: Stick the shop vacuum hose in an outlet to suck out any dry mud or drywall dust left there.

b. Room Perimeters: Work your way through the house and vacuum the perimeter of each room under the drywall, particularly in the corners where dust gets caught and is hard to sweep.

3. Caulk the gaps around the inside of exterior doors and around the window frames (anywhere that air can pass through) using a caulk gun, white caulk, and a rag.

42

a. Cut the tip off of the caulk tube at a slight angle (this helps direct the caulk where you want it).

- **A bigger hole produces a bigger bead of caulk, which is useful for filling big holes. For small holes and around windows, try to use a small hole for less mess. **

b. Run a small bead of caulk on the joint/gap to be filled c. Once you have a bead of caulk along the area to be filled, set the gun aside and

use your finger to swipe the caulk smooth. - **This is critical to create a good air seal and to produce a clean caulk

joint. Watch for gaps or holes that appear in the caulk and refill those with more caulk and swipe again. **

Paint walls, doors and trim Tools

• 12-2” Paint Brushes for the cut in • Trim Buckets (enough for each brush) • 12 Roller Pans • 12 Rollers • Large Quantity of Roller Pads • Roller Extenders (short and long) • Stir Stick or Stir Wand • Extension Cords • Lights • 4’ Ladders

Materials • Rags • Black Trash Bags • Roller Covers • 4- 5 Gallon Buckets of Valspar Interior Wall Paint from the doublewide

Preparation: 1. Stir the paint with a drill and mixing wand.

How To:

1. For Cut-ins: a. Using a 2” brush, paint a thick coat at all interior corners of walls and where the

walls meet the ceilings since rollers can’t get that close to the corners. b. Also paint around the window openings, door frames and around the bathtubs.

2. For Walls: a. Fill the roller pan with paint (be careful not to overfill it). b. Dip the roller in the roller pan to saturate it with paint and roll it against the pan

to unload the excess.

43

c. Start at the edge of a wall and work methodically toward the other wall using up and down strokes from near to the ceiling to within inches of the floor.

- Do not let the roller pad touch the floor or dirt or ceiling.

d. Check your work for missing spots, bits, flecks, or smeared patches.

3. For Doors: a. Paint with the grain. b. Paint the flat panels then the insets. Watch for

drips in the corners and on the edges. 4. For Exterior Doors:

a. Paint a first coat with white EXTERIOR paint. b. Add additional coats if needed.

5. Allow 30- 45 minutes to dry 6. Repeat - All surfaces need 2 good coats of paint!

Baseboard Installation Tools

Finish Nailers

Measuring Tapes

Chop (Miter) Saw

Coping Saw

Materials

Baseboard

Nails

Preparation: 1. Pre-Paint the baseboard white one coat. 2. All Interior Doors should be installed 3. Mark locations of studs along bottom of walls.

How To: 1. Measure the back wall of the room. 2. Cut the baseboard to this length. 3. Install the baseboard with a finish nailer. 4. Cut pieces of baseboard to the full

lengths of the side walls (the walls meeting the back wall).

5. Cope these two pieces (cut a profile on one part that will fit over the adjoining part): a. Use a miter box (chop) saw. b. Establish the cutting line by cutting the end of the baseboard at a 45° angle.

(The profile line along the front side of the baseboard is the cutting line)

44

c. Start the cope. Clamp the baseboard to a sawhorse or hold it in place with your knee while you saw.

d. Use a coping saw to cut off the excess part of the lip. 6. Fit coped baseboard into already installed piece and nail in place being sure that nails hit

studs. 7. Continue with this method until the entire room (including closets) is finished.

Hardware Installation

Install cabinets and countertops Tools

• Tape Measure • 4' AND 2' Level • Cabinet Box (with Bits, Jacks, Clamps and Screws) • 4’ Step Ladder • Extension Cord • Drill • Hammer • Wood Shims • Screw Gun • Chalk Line • #2 Square Drive Bit • Cabinet Stand and Jack

Materials • Cabinets • Wood Shims

Preparation: 1. Remove all doors, drawers and shelves from the cabinets

to allow you to clamp the cabinets together for installation. 2. Check for unevenness in floors 3. Check for unevenness in walls 4. Find studs and mark the location of all the studs on wall.

How To:

1. Install wall cabinets first: a. Measure up from the floor 54" and place a mark on the wall. b. Using a level, continue around the room, drawing a line. This 54" line will be the

bottom line for most 30" standard wall cabinets. 2. Start in a corner:

a. When installing a full-overlay cabinet, we recommend using a filler or starter strip next to the wall or soffit. This will allow doors and drawers to open fully without hitting the molding around doors and out-of-square walls.

45

- Note: If you are installing a wall blind corner cabinet, make sure you pull the cabinet out from the corner the appropriate distance as called for in your kitchen plan.

3. Referring to the marks of the stud locations locate each stud for the wall cabinets. 4. Using the Jack and Stand, lift the cabinet into place until it lines up with 54” Line 5. Using the supplied screws and a screw gun with a #2 square drive bit, fasten the

cabinets to the wall. -NOTE: Pre-drill the holes if necessary and Be sure that each secure hits a stud

6. Now, mark the stud locations at the top of the cabinet and secure the cabinet ¾" down from the top

7. Using the Cabinet drawing locate the next cabinet and lift into place

8. Do not secure the cabinet to the wall until you have checked the next cabinet to the first one, checked for levelness, and shimmed if necessary.

9. Screw second cabinet to the wall being sure that the faces still line up. 10. Once you have mounted the two cabinets, use your “C” clamps to clamp the vertical

frame members (stiles) tightly together, being careful to line up the bottom horizontal edges. 11. Now, drill a pilot hole through the stile of the first cabinet into the stile of the second

cabinet. Using the screws supplied inside each cabinet, draw the two stiles tightly together. (A little wax on the screws will help seat them easily.) You can now remove the “C” clamps.

12. Continue installing the wall cabinets next to each other in a similar manner. When you have fastened several cabinets in the line together and have checked for levelness, you can thoroughly tighten the screws holding the cabinets to the wall.

13. Fillers or cabinets with extended stiles: a. If it is necessary to use a filler, place the filler(s) at

the ends of the cabinet runs or next to the blind corner cabinets, rather than between cabinets in the middle of the run.

b. Cut the fillers to fit the space. c. Clamp, Pre-drill and Screw the Filler Strip into

place. 14. Install base cabinets:

a. Start with the corner cabinets. If you are using a base blind corner cabinet, pull it out of the corner to the proper dimension, as shown on your kitchen layout. Shim this cabinet up to sit level.

b. Blind base corner cabinet comes with a 3" filler that must be used as an extension of the adjacent cabinet to provide necessary door and drawer clearance.

46

c. Once you have positioned the corner cabinet into the corner, use the stud marks on the wall to locate the position of the screws for mounting the base cabinets to the wall. 10.

15. Install the next cabinet in the same manner a. Use your two clamps to clamp the stiles tightly together, making sure the

horizontal frame member rails form a level and straight line. b. Drill a pilot hole through the frame stile of the second cabinet. c. Use the screws to fasten the two stiles.

- Tip: (A little wax or soap on the screws will help seat them easily.) d. Draw the two stiles tightly together. e. Remove the clamps.

16. After you have securely fastened all base cabinets to the wall, reinstall the doors and drawers, and check each for proper alignment.

17. Fine-tuning: a. At times, you may have to fine-tune your cabinetry after the installation. b. Install the doors and make hinge adjustments so reveals between doors and

drawers are equal. 18. Install pulls or knobs.

Interior hardware and closet shelves installation Tools

• Pencils • Screw Guns • Screw Drivers • Levels

Materials • Shelving and Cleats • Door Knobs • Blinds • Door Stops • Towel Racks • Toilet Paper Holders • Screws • Reflective House Numbers

How To: 1. Prep for shelves by marking where the cleats will go with

a level. 2. Pre-paint the cleats with wall paint. And install. 3. Cut shelves to proper length and install. 4. Install blinds. (Refer to Installation Instructions in

Package).

47

5. Install door knobs. (Refer to Installation Instructions in Package). 6. Install door stops. 7. Install bathroom hardware (towel racks and toilet paper holders). (Refer to Installation

Instructions in Package). 8. Install mirrors. 9. Install Reflective House Numbers on Front Porch post.

POST CONSTRUCTION

Landscaping Tools

• Spades Shovels • Flat shovels • Wheel barrows • Machete (for cutting sod) • Post Hole Digger • Hose

Materials • Plants • Sod (If not delivered) • Mulch/ Pine Straw • Mail Box • Mail Box Post

How To: 1. Perform a final grading of the yard by raking the entire

yard until it’s smooth and comes out about 1inch lower than sidewalks and driveway.

2. Begin laying sod in rows; starting in the Front Yard. 3. Continue toward the back yard until all sod is used. 4. Plant grass seed on the remaining portion of the back

yard. 5. Spread fertilizer (if available). 6. Install the mailbox by digging a hole with post hole

digger and installing post and mailbox so that the bottom of the box is level and 40”-42” above ground level.

7. Plants and trees: a. Work the soil until it’s less compact. b. Dig a hole for every plant and tree. c. Plant items.

8. Mulch around the plants, trees and wild areas. 9. Water all plants and sod thoroughly.

48

Punch and Clean Tools

• Paint Brushes • Floor Mops (NOT WET MOPS) • Brooms and Dust Pans • Plastic Scrapers • Rubber Gloves

Materials • Paint • Window Cleaner • Bath and Tub Cleaner • Floor Cleaner • Trash Bags

How To: 1. Make a list of all items that need repair. 2. Repair all drywall with putty. 3. Repaint all drywall as needed. 4. Using wall paint touch-up all door, baseboard and trim. 5. Clean all floors, tubs, sinks, and appliances. 6. Remove ALL debris. 7. Remove ALL tools.

49

Tool Appendix Box Cutters C Clamp Caulk Gun Chalk Line Chop Saw—see Miter Box Saw Circular Saw Copper Stomper—for driving rods and stakes into the ground Crimpers—for crimping vinyl siding Deadman—for holding ceiling drywall in place Drywall Drill Drywall Foot Lifts—to hold the bottom sheet of drywall in place Drywall Squares Fertilizer Spreaders Framing Nailers Jig Saw Level Miter Box (Chop) Saw Mixing Drill/Mixing Bit Paddle Bits Post Hole Digger Ratchet Set Reciprocating Saw Roller (Landscaping) Router Screw Gun Shims Shingle elevator—to lift shingles to the roof Skilsaw Sledgehammer Snips Speed Square Spud Bar T-Square Table Saw Trim Coping Saw Trim Nailer Vinyl Pullers—small tool for adjusting vinyl siding

50

Construction Term Glossary 2x4—the term for the standard cut of wood in the building process. The “2x4” refers to the original cut size of 2 inches by 4 inches. The actual size after drying is 1 ½”x3 ½”. 2x6—the term for the second most common cut of wood. The “2x6” refers to the original cut size of 2 inches by 6 inches. The actual size after drying is 1 ½”x5 ½”. Cantilever—roof component; the portion of a structural member that projects beyond the point of support. A cantilevered truss extends at 90 degrees to the wall, as opposed to the type with “tails.” With this type of truss, the bottom chord of the truss ends at the wall, and the top chord extends down, creating the tail often treated as an exposed rafter. It is virtually impossible to achieve optimum insulation value with this type of truss, unless the pitch of the roof is very steep. Cap Plate—part of a wall; the horizontal framing member above the top plate, interlocking intersecting walls. Crawl Space—the area under the subfloor that’s surrounded by the foundation. Cope—using a coping saw to shape the baseboard to fit into the corners. Corner—element of a wall that allows two walls to be nailed together at the ends, at 90 degrees to one another. There are several ways to build them, but one dimension is the 3 1/2” of the flat side of a 2x4 stud, by 5”, which allows for a nailing surface on all sides. Cripple—framing element between the bottom sill of a window opening and the bottom wall plate. Crown—no lumber is completely straight; all lumber bows and curves. Look down the edge (1 ½”) dimension of the stud. It will either be convex or concave. Place a squiggle on the convex edge, and always have that edge face up while building walls. This will minimize any undulating waves in the wall when sheathed, which can be apparent in siding on the exterior, or the drywall on the inside of the house. If you do not discern a curve, make a mark on one edge, so the next person will know the stud has been checked and “crowned.” Dimensional Lumber—milled lumber cut to standard sizes, i.e. 2x4, 2x10. Eave—the level connection between the roof and the wall, the lower edge of the roof that overhangs the wall. Fascia/Sub-Fascia—the material used to trim the eaves of the roof. Material used determined by finish detail. Flange—a flat rim (of a window, etc.) that serves to attach or strengthen an object to a surface (a wall). 92 Flush—even with another object. Footings—the base of most foundations and slabs. The spread portion at the base of a foundation. Foundation Wall—solid block foundation wall, typically of 8” CMU’s (concrete masonry block). Header—a load-bearing structural member over a door or window opening. Jack—the stud or studs next to the king, cut to fit under the header, to transfer the load from the header to the floor. Joists: part of floor system; perpendicular to beam, either hanging or across lowered beam. May be dimensional lumber or engineered wood. Dimensional lumber is usually spaced at 16” o.c. (on center), but may be 12” or 24”. It usually requires blocking between joists to keep joists

51

straight. Engineered wood is usually spaced at 19.2” o.c. (the black diamonds on a tape measure), but may be 16” or 24”. Engineered wood can usually span a greater distance, is stronger, and when properly installed, all but eliminates squeaks. Hanging joists are usually hung with joist hangers, or sit on ledger strips. Ledger strips are nailed to the beam such that the top of the joist is even with the top of the beam. King—the full-length stud at each side of a sub-assembly. Ladder—when building walls, a ladder indicates an assembly that can be used instead of a “T”. The advantages to a ladder are they allow better insulation coverage in the exterior wall, and they can usually be made of scrap lumber. The main disadvantage is that ladders do not provide a solid nailing surface down the edge for sheetrock. Ladder/Overhang—roof eave component; simplistically, the extension of the rake. Level (Tool)—used to determine if something is level, which is the horizontal straight line, and plumb, which is the vertical straight line. Lookout—a cantilevered structural support of a rake. Microlam Beam—part of floor system; down the center, on piers to support the floor trusses (TJI’s). OSB—oriented strand board is a structurally rated panel made of flakes of wood oriented for strength, typically used to sheath walls and deck roofs. Pitch—the slope of the roof expressed in a ratio of rise to run, or the number of inches of vertical rise per inches of horizontal run. Plumb—level vertically. Proud—sticking out a certain distance (e.g. a nail is ¼” proud of a wall). 93 Punch—this term describes the process of fixing small items in the final stages of a home build. These include items such as repairing drywall, repainting, re-hanging doors, and repairing wood nicks. Rafter Dam/Frieze Block—blocking between trusses (or rafters) at the eaves of the roof. Will keep the ceiling insulation from falling out of the attic, or into the soffit. Raised-Heel Truss—a truss that is higher at the building edge, to all allow for sufficient ceiling insulation. Rake—the sloped connection between the roof and the wall, the end portion of the roof. Reveal—the area around the outside of a door or window between it and the frame. Rim Board—part of floor system; the wood product (lumber or engineered wood) that runs the perimeter of the floor, to which the floor (common) joists are attached. Silt Fence—the fence to control the runoff material from rain. Sill—the zone at the bottom edge of a door or window. Sill Plate (Flooring)—treated lumber/green wood around the perimeter, or the sill plate on a slab. Sill Plate (Walls)—also called shoe, bottom, sole, base plate; the horizontal framing member of a wall assembly. Square (Tool)—such as a speed square, framing square, carpenter’s square; serves to establish that any two elements (lines, walls, and framing members) are at 90 degrees to one another. Strongbacks—two 2x4’s nailed to form an “L” to support a gable truss.

52

Studs—also called pre-cuts; comes in either 2x4 or 2x6 cut at 93”; the principal vertical structural component in a framed wall. Sub-Assembly—a pre-framed element of a wall, typically a door or window, made in advance to expedite framing the walls. Subfloor—part of floor system; plywood or Advantech ¾” usually referred to as decking. Installed with construction adhesive and either decking screws or ring shank nails. “T”—an element of a wall that allows two walls to intersect and be connected (nailed), forming a “T”. Thresholds—the space between the flooring underneath doors. Top Plate—part of a wall; the horizontal framing member above the studs. 94 Truss—structurally engineered roof members. Although most types of roofs can be “trussed,” the members are typically a series of triangles, the strongest shape we can use in construction. X” on Center—the distance between studs, trusses, etc. to allow for the installation of 8’ sheathing or drywall (usually 16’ or 24’).