Constructing Japanese Clothing

7/28/2019 Constructing Japanese Clothing

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Constructing Japanese Clothing

Layout for Men's Hakama on 3 yards of 45" wide fabric:

Constructing Hakama:

Hem the bottoms of the legs by folding the raw

edges twice to the inside and sewing (or you can

do this after the hakama are complete)

Sew one side of the square-shaped crotch gore to

the slit of one leg, lining the corner up with the

end of the slit. Remember to match right sidestogether. Don't sew all the way to the corners of

the square.

Sew the adjacent side of the crotch gore to the

other side of the slit on the same leg. You'll need

to twist the fabric around to get it to work.

Sew a third side of the crotch gore to the slit on

the other pantleg. Make sure that the larger parts

of the legs are on adjacent sides.

Sew the remaining side of the crotch gore. Then

sew the legs to each other the rest of the way for

the center front and center back seams. (Note: becareful you are sewing the two fronts together

and the two backs together and not just sewing

the front to the back of the same leg.)


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Sew each leg into a tube along the outside edge,

stopping about 15 inches from the top. You will

need to fold each leg in half around the other legto sew.

On the back (smaller side), fold the fabric oneither side of the crotch seam into one huge pleat

and pin in place. The folds from the two sides'pleats should just meet at the center seam on the

outside of the hakama.

Fold in the edges of the back: Measure your

waist where the hakama will tie (under your gutto show how well-fed you are). Divide that

number by two and subtract 5 inches. Call that

number W. Fold the sides of the back in until the

width equals W (if the back is already narrowerthan W, fold in just enough that the selvedge

won't show).

Sew across the top of the back pleat to hold it in

place while you work on the front. If you have

big flaps of fabric folded in, you may want to

tack them down with a few hand-stitches as well.

On the front, fold the edges in first, about as

much as you did for the back and pin in place.

Measure the width of the front pieces after theedges are folded in and call it F.

I will give instructions for making 3 pleats perside. Divide F by 18 and call that number P. Use

pins to mark points along the top of the front

pants in increments of P, measuring out from thecenter seam. There should be 9 pins on either

side of the center seam.

With the fabric lying right side up and counting

out from the center, fold the fabric so pin 2 meets

the center seam. Next fold pin 5 in to line up withpin 3. Then fold pin 8 in to line up with pin 6. Pin

pleats in place and repeat on the other side.

Sew across the top of the front pleats to hold

them in place.

For each tie, sew the ends into tubes, leaving

enough of the tie unsewn in the middle to attach


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it to the hakama. Clip corners, turn right-side out

and press.

Sew the front tie to the outside of the front, right

sides together. Fold the tie up and around the raw

edges to the inside, turning the raw edge of the

tie under so the fold of the fabric meets the seamwhere the front of the tie was sewn. Hand-stitch

the tie in place. Add extra stitches at the corner

where the tie meets the hakama leg because itwill get a lot of stress.

Do the same with the back tie as you did with the

front..

Congratulations, you're done.... try them on!!


Women's Hakama (Kamakura, informal Heian)

Always red. Wear over a white kosode and tie them very high on the waist. There is only

one tie on women's hakama. The tie connects the front and back pieces on the left side(with a slight gap between them) and ties in a bow on the right. If you have enough

fabric, the front end of the tie should wrap all the way around your waist before tying to

the back in a big bow on the right side. You may optionally wear uchigi and an Uwagi

over top. Adjust leg length so you won't trip over the hakama - they should just brush thetop of the foot.

Layout for Women's Hakama on 4.5 yards of 45" wide fabric:

Layout for Women's Hakama on 3.5 yards of 60" wide fabric:


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Nagabakama (Women's Long Hakama):

Always red. Wear over a white kosode. Wear over a white kosode and tie them very high

on the waist. There is only one tie on women's hakama. The tie connects the front andback pieces on the left side (with a slight gap between them) and ties in a bow on the

right. If you have enough fabric, the front end of the tie should wrap all the way aroundyour waist before tying to the back in a big bow on the right side. The nagabakama willdrag on the ground behind and you'll have to walk on the pants legs. Hitoe, multiple

Uchigi, and Uwagi go over top. Karaginu and Mo are added for formal situations.

Layout for Nagabakama on 5.25 yards of 45" wide fabric:

Layout for Nagabakama on 3.7 yards of 60" wide fabric:

Constructing Women's Hakama or Nagabakama:


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Attach leg pieces to each long

side of an inner leg piece,

matching them up at the bottoms.Repeat for other inner leg piece.

(NOTE: Try to put selvedges on

the outsides of the leg pieces soyou won't have to finish them

later.)

Hem the bottoms of the legs by

folding the raw edges twice to the

inside and sewing (or you can do

this after the hakama are

complete)

Place the two U-shapes formed

by the leg pieces together, rightsides facing in. Sew them

together along the inside of the

U. This will be the crotch seam,

so you may want to sew it twiceor serge the edges to prevent it

from splitting open. Clip the

corners.

Sew each leg together along the

outside edge, stopping about 16-18 inches from the top (the side

opening should come to justabove your knee). You will need

to fold each leg in half around the

other leg to sew.

Calculate the finished width for the front and back panels by taking 1/2 your waist

measurement and subtracting 2.5 inches (Note: this is the amount of the gap

between the front and back panels - if you wish to have a larger gap, use a largernumber).

Pin the front in 6 knife pleats: 3

pleats on either side of the centerseam, all pointing towards thecenter seam. Adjust the pleat

depths so that the total width

matches your calculation.


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Sew across all the pleats to hold

them. If the outside edges are raw

or ugly, you will also want to turnthem to the inside and stitch them

in place.

Pin and sew the back into six pleats in the same manner as the front. Ideally the tie should be long enough to go around your waist twice with at least

30" at either end to make a bow. You can piece several lengths of fabric together

to make the total length. If you don't have enough fabric even with piecing, you

can attach the tie so the free ends are both about the same length and tie the tiesdirectly together, without wrapping the front tie around.

If you have enough fabric for the tie that wraps around twice, measure the total

length of the tie and subtract 2 x (your waist measurement) from that. Divide that

number in half (it should be greater than 30"). Mark that distance from one end ofthe tie with a pin.

Line the pin on the tie up with theright side of the back piece. Sew

the upper edge of the tie to the

back pleats of the hakama, right

sides together.

Allow at least 2.5 inches of tie between the back and the front pieces (the same

number as you used to calculate the finished width of the panels)

Wrap the tie around to the front

and sew the upper edge of it tothe front pleats, right sides

together.

Fold the tie up, over the raw edges of the front and back pleats. Turn under 1/2

inch seam allowance and fold the edge to the inside so it meets the seamline from

sewing the ties on.

Handsew the tie to the inside of the hakama to hide the raw edges. Handsew the

two edges together on the section of the tie between the front and back. Add some

extra reinforcing stitches where the edges of the hakama meet the ties.

Handsew the remaining length of the ties in a tube, stopping about 15 inches from

the end. The ends of the ties should be left flat so they will make wide tailshanging down from the bow. Turn under the raw edges of the ends on all 3 sides

and sew them down.


Layout for Kosode on 5 yds of 45" wide fabric:


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Layout for Hitoe on 5 yds of 45" wide fabric:

Constructing Kimono (Garments that hang from the shoulder and have a

cross-wrapped collar):

1. Mark the the shoulder fold on the edgesof each body and sleeve piece with

chalk or pins (fold piece in half to find

midpoint).


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Sew the two body pieces together

lengthwise, stopping about 2 inches before the

shoulder fold.

Attach the sleeves to the body, matching the

marks for the shoulder fold. Remember to stopthe seams if the bottoms of the sleeves should

be unattached for the garment you're making.(NOTE: if the sleeves have selvedge edges,

place them towards the wrist so you don't have

to finish them later)


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Attach one overlap piece to the front of

one body piece. Do the same on theother side. (NOTE: if the overlaps haveselvedges, place them away from the

body so you don't have to finish those

edges later)

Pictures from here on with only depict

half the body, with the other half greyed.

Do everything on both sides so the

garment stays symmetrical.

Figure out where you want the collar to

wrap to on your body. This will usually

be about at where your hip bone sticksout. Measure from your shoulder to your

hip bone (on the same side of your

body). Measure the same amount down

from the top of the overlap piece andmark the endpoint "A".


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Lay your fabric on a flat surface, right

side up. From the point where the backseam stops, draw a 2" line out from the

back seam towards the sleeve. Now

draw a line from that point straightdown 4". Connect that point to "A" with

a straight line.

Cut out the striped area, leaving 1/2 inch

seam allowance and slightly curving thecorners. (NOTE: Do not lift the fabric

up after you cut this out - leave it on the

same surface until after you have pinned

the collar on or the diagonal part of thecollar will stretch)

Figure out how wide you want your

collar to be (usually 2-5" wide with

wider collars on outer layers). Multiply

that by 3 and add 1/2 inch for seamallowance (i.e. for a 3" wide collar

(3"*3)=9 + .5"=9.5"). Cut your collar

piece down to that width.

On an ironing board, fold one long edge

of the collar up one collar-width (3" in

the above example) and press.

Fold the collar up one collar-width again

in the same direction. There should be a

1/2 inch edge sticking out for seam

allowance.


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Find the midpoint of the collar and markit on the seam allowance. Place thecollar on the kimono without turning it

over. Match the center of the collar to

the back center seam of the kimono. Theseam allowance of the collar should

meet the seam allowance of the

neckline.

Pin the collar to the back of the

neckline, down the side and down thediagonal line to "A". Let the excess

collar hang free. The corners are tricky -

allow the seam allowance of the collarto bunch up so you can make it around

the corner. Do the same on the other

side. (NOTE: If the overlaps did not

have selvedges, fold the edge over twicebefore pinning the collar) (Once the

collar is pinned on, it is now safe to pick

up your kimono.)

Sew the collar to the body, being careful

not to accidentally catch the folded part

of the collar. Smooth the fabric as yousew the corners so it doesn't bunch

under the sewing. It can bunch as much


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as it wants on the fabric just on either

side of the seam, just not in the seam

itself. After sewing the collar, clip theseam allowances at the corners to

release the bunching and stretching.

To finish the ends of the collar, leave the

first fold of the collar in place but fold

the collar inside out along the line of the

second fold. Fold the seam allowancetowards the collar. Sew a seam directly

across them (NOT angled) starting from

point "A" where they meet the overlap.

Cut off the excess and clip off thecorner. Turn right side out.

Once you turn the ends right side out,

you'll notice that the folded part of the

collar will naturally flip to the inside.

Tuck the seam allowances in and hand-sew the fold of the collar along the seam

with a blind stitch.

Fold the whole kimono at the shoulder

and sew the body pieces together alongthe side seams, then the sleeves together

at the bottom. This will be two separate

seams if the bottoms of the sleeves areunattached (as for hitoe). Also, if the

sleeve bottoms are unattached, stop the

side seams approximately where thesleeves would start if they were

attached.

For any raw edges (openings of sleeves

or body, bottom hem) turn twice and

hand-sew using a blind stitch. If you did

not french seam, finish inside rawselvedges with a machine zig-zag,

serger, or whip stitch.


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Japanese Outfits:

This page lists merely a small selection of very common outfits that make good beginner

garb. Please note that most of the links are to other sites; you'll have to use your "Back"

button to return after viewing them. Please see the Costume References page for someother sites with additional clothing ideas for the Japanese persona.

The terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See

the Japanese Historical Eras reference page.

Some Men's Outfits:

* Go to Anthony J. Bryant's Costume Page and click "Men's Outfits" on the left-handmenu to see additional outfits*

Era Formal NobleInformal

NobleSamurai Retainer Peasant

Nara

Heian Ho

Kariginu

Ko-Noshi

Hitatare*

Kariginu

Kamakura

Muromachi

Kariginu*

Hitatare

Dobuku

Kataginu

Momoyama

*With the decline of the Court during the Kamakura era, Formal occasions were lesscommon. Samurai garb started out as lower class but became higher class towards the end

of the period.

Some Women's Outfits:

EraFormal

Noble

Informal

Noble

Samurai-

class

Servant/Merchant

ClassPeasant

Nara

HeianKaraginu-

Mo

Utsutsuginu

and Uwagi

Kamakura Uwagi Kosode and Hakama shibiradatsumono

Muromachi Uchikake mobakama yumaki

Momoyama

Uchikake

Koshimaki
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Hoeki no Ho

Hachijou Tadamoto's Ho page (Babelfish Translation)

Garments: Kosode, sashinuki (pants), Hoeki no Ho (top)

Noshi and Ko-Noshi

Hachijou Tadamoto's Noshi page (Babelfish Translation)

Some other pages:

http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/1-4.html


Patterns http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/jisaku.html

Garments: Kosode, sashinuki (pants), noshi or ko-noshi (top)
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15/25

Kariginu and Hanjiri (boy's version)



Garments: Kosode, kukuri-bakama (pants), kariginu (top)Good colors: black, white, bright yellow, pink, bright orange, bright orangey red. Kukuri-

bakama may match the Kariginu or be white. Higher-ranking men should have brocade

fabric, and the color of the kariginu may match their rank (light or dark blue, light or darkgreen).

Hitatare



Military wear from late Heian through Momoyama, typical "Samurai" garb, lower class

in Heian and Kamakura, upper class in Muromachi and Momoyama

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Garments: Kosode, hakama (pants), hitatare (top)

Good fabrics: the hakama fabric must be stiff or the pants will look like a flowy skirt.

Later period hitatare were "louder" than earlier hitatare. In the Muromachi andMomoyama period fabrics were commonly decorated with geometric patterns, horizontal

stripes, repeats of figures (bamboo or maple leaves, dragonflies, hexagons, etc) gold leaf,and embroidery. Late period lower class sometimes wore the kosode and hakama without

the hitatare.

Kataginu (less formal/lower class for Muromachi andMomoyama):

Garments: Kosode, hakama (pants), kataginu (top)

Similar to Hitatare. Kataginu and hakama should match.

Dobuku (Informal upper class Muromachi & Momoyama):

Garments: Kosode, hakama (pants), dobuku (jacket)

Similar to hitatare but dobuku is upper garment instead of hitatare top. Dobuku (alsospelled dofuku, dohbuku) were usually made of expensive imported fabrics such as

Chinese brocades and European wools.
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17/25

Karaginu-mo



Formal Heian wear. The first picture is actually a ceremonial garment that only wouldhave been used a state ceremonies by the Empress or someone else important. The

Karaginu is a "Chinese short jacket" that you can tell is not one of the usual layers by its

collar that is not wrapped and not caught in an obi like the other layers. The mo is theelaborately embroidered white train that flows in the back.


Pictures of Heian re-enactors:
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18/25

http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/off-index.html

Garments: (Kosode, nagabakama,hitoe, utsutsuginu, uchiginu, uwagi, karaginu, mo)

The colors of the layers were very important and ideally should match the season. Some

of the many layers were faked by making one kimono body with up to 5 sleeves, collars,overlaps, and hemlines attached (the utsutusginu). Karaginu and mo were only worn by

very high ranking ladies and for ceremonial events.

Uwagi



Upper class Heian and Kamakura women's wear. The first two pictures, with their many

layers, is Heian semiformal wear. Note that it is essentially the same as Karaginu Mowithout the Karaginu (short jacket) and mo (white train). Informal occasions and lowerranks called for fewer layers, such as the two pictures to the right.

By the Kamakura era, there were some subtle changes. Very formal dress was without

hakama (as you see on the left) and semiformal and informal dress was essentially the
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19/25

informal dress of the Heian era with the nagabakama shortened to a walk-able length. It

was also more acceptable to wear a Kosode and Hakama without Uwagi.

Garments: kosode, nagabakama or women's hakama,hitoe, optional utsutsuginu and/oruchiginu, uwagi

Kosode and Hakama



similar to outfits for female dancers and shrine maidens

kosode (top) and women's hakama (pants)

Good fabrics: Stiff, opaque silk or linen. Top was almost always white and hakama werealmost always red. Was also common to have alternating red and white layers on the top,

which can be faked by adding fake red & white collars to the kosode.

Shibiradatsumono

Commoner in everyday wear: kosode

and shibiradatsumono (=wrapping

skirt).
http://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakewomenshakama.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/japeras.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/japeras.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakewomenshakama.htmhttp://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/wayou/30new.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakewomenshakama.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/japeras.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakewomenshakama.htm


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1

sage-gami

2

kosode

3shibiradatsu-mono

Mobakama

A woman in everyday wear; Kosode

and Mobakama (=wrapping skirt).
http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/9new.htm


21/25


22/25

1

sage-gami

2kosode

3

uwazashi-fukuro

4

mo-bakama

5obuto

Yumaki

A woman in everyday wear, kosode and

yumaki (=light wrapping skirt).
http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/8new.htm


23/25


24/25

1

sage-gami

2katabira

3

yumaki

UchikakeThe terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See

http://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/japeras.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/japeras.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/japeras.htm


25/25

Middle and upper class (Samurai class) wear for the Muromachi and Momoyama eras.

The uchikake (top robe) grew increasingly fancier towards the end of period and could bebrocade fabric, dyed with shibori, with applied gold foil and silk embroidery.

Garments: Multiple Kosodes, Uchikake

Koshimaki

A summer version of the Uchikake that became fashionable in the Momoyama era where

the top layer is tied tightly around the hips and then allowed to fall off the shoulders untilit makes an artificially stiff "bustle" effect.
http://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekosode.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htmhttp://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/30.htmhttp://www.iz2.or.jp/fukusyoku/busou/36.htmhttp://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/29.htmhttp://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/23.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekosode.htmhttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmakekimono.htm

Constructing Japanese Clothing

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