Companion Planting Made Easy - Organic Gardening

39
Excerpted from Companion Planting, a book from Rodale’s Successful Organic Gardening series (copyright 1994). Reprinted with permission of Weldon Russell Pty. Ltd. Copyright 1995 by Rodale Press, Inc., Emmaus, PA 18098. Fourth Printing 1999 COMPANION PLANTING M ADE EASY

description

Companion Planting Made Easy - Organic Gardening

Transcript of Companion Planting Made Easy - Organic Gardening

Page 1: Companion Planting Made Easy - Organic Gardening

Excerpted from Companion Planting, a book from Rodale’s SuccessfulOrganic Gardening series (copyright 1994).

Reprinted with permission of Weldon Russell Pty. Ltd.

Copyright 1995 by Rodale Press, Inc., Emmaus, PA 18098.Fourth Printing 1999

COMPA N I O NPLANTING

MA D E EA S Y

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Text: Susan McClurePlant-by-Plant Guide: Sally RothGardening editor: Nancy OndraProject editor: Linda HagerCopy editor: Susan FoxCover and book designer: Judy RossInterior illustrations: Frank Fretz

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Contents

Introduction~4~

How Does Companion Planting Work?

~4~

Getting Startedwith Companions

~7~

Growing a Companion Garden~7~

Plant-by-Plant Guide~8~

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In the simplest terms, companionplanting is the technique of combin-ing two plants for a particular pur-pose. If your crops are regularlyattacked by insects, you can usecompanions to hide, repel, or trappests. Other companions providefood and shelter to attract and pro-tect beneficial insects. And someplants grow well together justbecause they don’t compete for lightor rooting space. Expanding thediversity of your garden plantings andincorporating plants with particularlyuseful characteristics are both part ofsuccessful companion planting.

Creating DiversityIn contrast to the wide diversity ofnatural systems—like forests andprairies—our gardens and farmstend to contain neat, identical plant-

ings of just a few different plantspecies. These large groups of simi-lar plants, called monocultures, areprime targets for insect and diseaseattack. Increasing the diversity ofyour garden plantings is a naturaland effective way to avoid a mono-culture and minimize pest and dis-ease problems.

Technically, adding diversity couldbe as simple as increasing the num-ber of different plants in your gar-den. Sounds simple—until yourealize that you have a limitedamount of room in your garden,which is taken up by your favoritecrops. But, if you create a planneddiversity, you can still have good (oreven better) yields from the sameamount of space.

For instance, instead of growingthe same vegetable cultivars in the

How DoesCompanion Planting Work?

Wouldn’t it be great if youcould just plant your gar-den and forget it? Your

plants would grow lush andhealthy—without you adding lots offertilizer or worrying about pestproblems. Well, any kind of gardenwill need some care, but you can

encourage your plants to worktogether, sharing water and nutri-ents and protecting each other frompesky insects. Companion PlantingMade Easy is your guide to usingtime-tested techniques for healthierplants, bigger harvests, and fewerpest problems.

Introduction

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same beds every year, try changingtheir positions each year, or at leasttry different cultivars. To get evenmore diversity, try open-pollinatedseeds instead of hybrids. The plantsfrom open-pollinated seed are alljust a little different genetically, soeven if pests or diseases attacksome of the plants, the rest of thecrop may be spared.

An easy and pleasant way to adddiversity to the vegetable garden isto add flowering plants. Mix annualflowers and herbs in the beds orrows of vegetables, or create per-manent beds nearby for perennialsand bulbs. Besides looking good,flowers provide a source of foodand shelter for spiders and benefi-cial insects that eat or parasitizeplant pests.

Enriching the SoilAll plants withdraw some nutrientsfrom the soil as they grow, but someactually return more nutrients thanthey consume. Legumes—plants likepeas, beans, and clover—have amutually beneficial relationship withnitrogen-fixing R h i z o b i u m b a c t e r i a .These bacteria colonize legumeroots, absorbing up to 20 percent ofthe sugars the plants produce. Thebacteria use this energy to captureatmospheric nitrogen (nitrogen gas)and convert it into nitrogen com-pounds that plants can use.

Some of this nitrogen goes direct-ly back to the host plant. Anotherpart of the nitrogen trapped by theRhizobium bacteria is released into

the soil as the nodule-bearing rootsdie off and decompose. This nitro-gen is available during the season toboost the growth of any companionplants growing nearby. The bigbonus comes when you turn thefoliage and roots of the legumesinto the soil. When they decay, theycan release enough nitrogen to feedthe next crop you grow.

Repelling Pest InsectsA key part of creating effective cropcombinations is using the naturalabilities of the plant to attract, con-fuse, or deter insects. Some plantsproduce repellent or toxic com-pounds that chase pests away orstop them from feeding. In othercases, the aromatic compoundsreleased by plants can mask thescent of companion crops. Summersavory, for example, may help hideyour bush beans from pests, whiletansy is said to repel Colorado pota-to beetles from a potato planting.Garlic releases deterrent aromasinto the air that may chase awayinsects such as bean beetles andpotato bugs. Mint may keep cab-bage loopers off cabbage plants,while basil can discourage tomatohornworms on tomatoes.

Try pungent plants as an edgingaround garden beds, or mix them inamong your crops. Or, if you can’tgrow the repellents close enough toyour crops, try spreading clippingsof the scented plants over gardenbeds for the same effect.

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Luring Pests from CropsSome plants have an almost irre-sistible appeal for certain pests.Nasturtiums, for instance, are anexcellent attractant plant becausethey’re a favorite of aphids.Colorado potato beetles find blacknightshade (Solanum nigrum)more alluring than even your bestpotato plants.

Attractant plants can protect yourcrops in two ways. First, they act asdecoys to lure pests away from yourdesirable crops. Second, they makeit easier to control the pests sincethe insects are concentrated on afew plants. Once pests are“trapped,” you can pull out theattractant plants (cover them withpaper or plastic bags first, if thepests are small or fast-moving) anddestroy them along with the pests,

or apply some other type of controlmeasure to the infested plants.

Sheltering BeneficialInsectsNot all insects are garden enemies.Many actually help your gardengrow by eating or parasitizing plantpests. You can encourage these ben-eficial creatures to make a home inyour garden by planting theirfavorite flowering plants. Growingdill, for example, can attract pest-eating spiders, lacewings, and para-sitic wasps, which will help controlcaterpillars on cabbage, beetles oncucumbers, and aphids on lettuce.Plants that produce large quantitiesof easily accessible pollen and nec-tar—like yarrow, fennel, and gold-enrod—provide shelter and supple-mental food for hungry beneficials.

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Caring for companion plantingsisn’t very different from how younormally care for your garden. Youstill need to prepare the soil well,plant at the proper time, and waterand fertilize as necessary.

Throughout the season, observethe performance of the companionplantings you’re testing. Keep anotebook where you can record thesetup and the results of the trials. To

get the most out of companionplanting, it’s often wise to try a com-bination at least twice; three times iseven better. Then you can look atthe overall performance of the com-bination and make an informeddecision on whether it’s worth try-ing again. You’ll soon build a list ofplants and techniques that willmake your garden more productiveand even easier to maintain.

Growing aCompanion Garden

With so many possible plant combi-nations, it can be hard to knowwhere to start. To increase yourchances of success, try a compan-ion planting scheme that has beenfound effective in scientific studiesor that has the confirmation of awide variety of gardeners from vary-ing climates. As you gain confi-dence, you can branch out to tryless-proven combinations.

You may want to start by selectinga companion for one of yourfavorite crops—tomatoes, forexample. If you look up the“Tomato” entry on page 38, you’llfind recommendations for allies and

compatible companions, as well ashelpful growing information. Usethese suggestions as the basis foryour trials.

Also, keep your eyes open forexisting garden plants that you canuse in your own companion plant-ing experiments. Look closely atflowers around your yard to seewhich harbor a wealth of beneficialinsects; you may want to plant moreof these attractant plants. If you finda quick-growing weed or vegetablethat is crawling with a bumper cropof pests, take note—it could makea good trap crop to lure pests awayfrom your other plants.

Getting Startedwith Companions

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AsparagusAsparagus officinalisLI L I A C E A E

ALLIES: According to companiongardening lore, planting pars-ley or tomatoes with aspara-gus will invigorate bothcrops. Interplantings ofparsley, tomatoes, and basilmay discourage asparagusbeetles. Many companiongardeners find that aspara-gus grows well plantednear basil.

COMPANIONS:Interplant earlycrops, such aslettuce, beets,or spinach,between therows in spring.In summer, add alate planting of let-tuce and spinachwhere the fernyasparagusplants will pro-vide some need-ed shade. InColonial times,

grapes were sometimes trellisedbetween the asparagus rows.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES:Asparagus grows well in most areasthat have either winter groundfreezes or dry seasons. Choose awell-drained spot in full sun, anddig in plenty of compost or agedmanure. It’s important to preparethe soil well, since plants may stayin place for 20 years or more.

Most gardeners startasparagus from 1-year-oldcrowns. Buy all-male plants ifavailable. Place purchasedcrowns 18 to 24 inches (45 to60 cm) apart in a trench that is12 inches (30 cm) wide and 8

Plant-by-Plant Guide

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inches (20 cm) deep. Allow 4 to 5feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) between rows.Cover with 2 inches (5 cm) of soil.Add another 2 inches (5 cm) of soilevery 2 weeks until the trench isfilled. Mulch well and water regu-larly during the first 2 years afterplanting, and side-dress with com-post or aged manure. Remove anddestroy old foliage each spring tocontrol pests and diseases. Wait toharvest your asparagus until thethird spring after planting. Breakspears off at soil level.

BasilOcimum basilicumLA B I ATA E

ALLIES: Companion gardenersbelieve that basil improves the fla-vor and growth of tomatoes, per-haps because the plants are suchgood companions on the table.Some are also convinced that basilor basil sprays protect tomatoesfrom insects and disease, althoughthis remains unproven by scientificresearch.

COMPANIONS: Basil is available ina variety of shapes and sizes, fromneat, small mounds to large,branching plants. Low-growing,compact cultivars like ‘Spicy Globe’

make a neat edging along flowerborders. Purple-leaved cultivars like‘Purple Ruffles’ are great in flowerbeds as well as in vegetable andherb gardens.

ENEMIES: Even in the 1600s, gar-deners observed that rue and basildid not appear to be good neigh-bors. “Something is the matter,”noted Nicholas Culpeper, in hisEnglish Physitian and CompleteHerball. “This herb and rue willnever grow together, no, nor nearone another.”

GROWING GUIDELINES: Basil isvery sensitive to cold; wait until theweather and soil are warm beforeplanting outdoors. Sow seed 1⁄8 inch(3 mm) deep in full sun, or set outtransplants after all danger of frosthas passed. Space plants 6 to 12inches (15 to 30 cm) apart forsmall-leaved types such as‘Minimum’ or ‘Spicy Globe’; allowup to 11⁄2 feet (45 cm) betweenplants for larger cultivars such as‘Genova’ or ‘Piccolo Verde Fino’.Water and mulch to keep the soilevenly moist. Pinch or cut backflowering stems to keep the plantproducing more leaves.

COMMENTS: Garden lore suggeststhat basil repels flies and mosqui-toes: Try tucking a few stems into abouquet on the patio table.

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BeanPhaseolus spp.and other generaLE G U M I N O S A E

A L L I E S : Companion gardenersmaintain that interplanting tomatoesor corn with beans improves thegrowth and yields of both crops.Some recommend marigolds withbeans to repel Mexican bean beetles.Scientific studies with marigoldsshow reduced beetle populations,but a border planting of Frenchmarigolds (Tagetes patula) nega-tively affected the beans’ growth.Companion gardeners also suggestplanting aromatic herbs such as win-ter or summer savory and rosemaryto deter bean beetles.

To help repel black aphids frombeans, try intercropping bush beanswith garlic, or grow nasturtiums asa trap crop. Summer savory, which

goes well with cookedbeans, is said to

improve the growth

and flavor of growing beans as well.The beans provide food and shelterfor many predatory and parasiticinsects.

C O M PA N I O N S : Climbing polebeans are good companions forcorn; they help anchor the cornagainst wind and add nitrogen to thesoil. Celery and cucumbers are a fewgood companions for interplanting.

ENEMIES: While some companiongardeners recommend interplantinggarlic with beans to repel insects,others say that any member of theonion family, including garlic, shal-lots, and chives, will be detrimentalto growth and yield.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Sowseed in average to fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Start plant-ing around 2 weeks after the lastspring frost date, when the soil iswarm (seeds will rot in cold, wetsoil). Make successive plantings at2- to 3-week intervals until 2 monthsbefore the average date of your firstfall frost. Plant bush beans 1 to 11⁄2inches (2.5 to 3.75 cm) deep and 3to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) apart.

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Sow pole beans 2 inches (5 cm)deep and 10 inches (25 cm) apart.Pick green beans while young; pickfresh shell beans when plump butt e n d e r. Leave dry beans on theplants until they rattle in the pod.

BeetBeta vulgarisCH E N O P O D I A C E A E

ALLIES: Companion gardening loreholds that beets thrive in the com-pany of cabbage and its relatives, aswell as with onions; alternate beetsin a row with onions or kohlrabi.Try companion plantings of mints(Mentha spp.) or catnip (Nepetacataria) to ward off flea beetles.

COMPANIONS: Plant in alternaterows with other crops, even thosethat grow tall. (Although beets pre-fer full sun, they also tolerate partialshade.) Beets have attractive red-veined leaves that also make a niceaddition to ornamental plantings.

ENEMIES: Some companion gar-deners believe that beets do poorly

when planted near pole beans orfield mustard.

GROWING GUIDELINES: For bestroot development, beets need asunny site with loose, fertile, well-drained soil that is free of rocks andstones. Sow seed 1 inch (2.5 cm)deep and 2 inches apart about amonth before the last spring frost.Seedlings often come up in clumps;thin to stand 2 inches (5 cm) apart.Transplant the thinnings to fill barespots, or enjoy them in salads.Harvest roots when small; pick ten-der leaves for cooked greens. Sow afall crop in late summer.

COMMENTS: Leafminers and fleabeetles are common pests, but usu-ally cause only cosmetic damageand do not affect root yields. (If youare growing beets for their greens,floating row covers can help keepfoliage pests away.) Larvae of beetmoths have been controlled onsugar beets with a watered-downextract of the leaves of chestnuttrees (Castanea sativa). Scientistsbelieve the extract masks the chemi-cal aura that attracts the moth to layher eggs on the beet plants.

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BroccoliBrassica oleracea,Botrytis groupCR U C I F E R A E

ALLIES: Many companion garden-ers believe that beans, celery, pota-toes, and onions improve broccoli’sgrowth and flavor. Aromatic herbs,including chamomile, dill, pepper-mint, rosemary, and sage, are alsosupposed to be beneficial to broc-coli and its relatives by discouragingpests.

COMPANIONS: Broccoli needs alot of calcium, so plant it with low-calcium feeders like beets, nastur-tiums, marigolds, or sage. In rich,fertile soil, interplant broccoli withother cabbage-family members suchas cabbage, cauliflower, collards,and kohlrabi, which share its heavyfeeding habits. Underplant late-sea-son broccoli with hairy vetch, a win-ter-hardy green manure that will liveon to protect the soil after you har-vest the broccoli.

ENEMIES: Many companion gar-deners believe that broccoli andother cabbage-family plants arenegatively affected by tomatoes.Some would add pole beans to thatlist, and others disagree aboutwhether strawberries are good orbad neighbors. In scientific studies,decomposing residues of broccoliwere found to have a toxic effect onlettuce seedlings. It’s probably agood idea to remove and compost

decaying broccoli plants instead ofturning them under.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Sowseed indoors, 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) deepand 2 inches (5 cm) apart, about 2months before the last spring frostdate. Set out seedlings or nursery-grown transplants about a monthbefore the last frost date. Give thema site with fertile, well-drained soiland full sun. Space the young plants12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm)apart. Sow a fall crop directly in thegarden in July through August.Harvest the terminal bud while theflorets are tightly budded and green.If you leave the stem in the ground,you can harvest smaller side budsas they develop. Broccoli and othercabbage-family plants are heavyfeeders, so top-dress with compostor feed with fish emulsion every fewweeks.

CabbageBrassica oleracea,Capitata groupCR U C I F E R A E

ALLIES: Many companion garden-ers say cabbage grows better whenplanted with celery, onions, andpotatoes, although no research hasyet been done to prove or disprovethe idea. Aromatic plants, includingmarigolds, nasturtiums, pennyroyal,peppermint, sage, and thyme, are afavorite in garden lore for theirreputed insect-repellent powers;

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except for marigolds, however, theyhave shown no significant effects inscientific trials with cabbage. Infact, nasturtiums have been shownto actually attract cabbage flea bee-tles. Studies have shown that whilemarigolds do reduce flea beetles,they also apparently cause an allelo-pathic reaction that inhibits thegrowth of the cabbage.

Interplanting tomato rows withcabbage rows provided some protec-tion from whiteflies and cabbage fleabeetles in one study; researcherstheorized that the smell of the toma-toes hid the smell of the cabbage.Clover, lettuce, and weeds also helpprotect from infestations by makingthe cabbage hard to find.

COMPANIONS: Try a border ofkale around your cabbage patch todecoy insects away fromthe cabbage heads.

ENEMIES: Companion gardenersdisagree about strawberries andcabbage as companions; some saythe relationship is beneficial whileothers say it affects cabbage nega-tively.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Cabbagedoes best in cool weather. For thespring crop, sow seed indoors, 1⁄4inch (6 mm) deep, 8 to 10 weeksbefore the last spring frost date, orbuy nursery-grown seedlings.Transplant to fertile, well-drainedsoil in full sun as soon as the soilcan be worked, spacing plants 12 to18 inches (30 to 45 cm) apart.Side-dress monthly with compost orrotted manure. Water evenly to pre-vent splitting. Harvest the headswhen they are round and full.

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CalendulaCalendula officinalisCO M P O S I TA E

ALLIES: Some companion garden-ers believe a border or interplantingof calendula protects plants againstasparagus beetles, tomato horn-worms, and other insects; this maybe due to a masking effect or arepellent created by the pungentscent of its foliage. The brightly col-ored flowers attract beneficialinsects, but the plant itself is oftenbeset by aphids, whiteflies,caterpillars, leafhoppers, andother pests; it may hold some valueas a trap crop. It is reputed to repeldogs when planted aroundshrubs and trees.

COMPANIONS: The cheerfulflowers of calendula are a greataccent for herb gardens andflower borders. This compactannual fits in easily with veg-etable garden plantings.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES:Calendula is easy to grow. Scatterseed in early spring in average,well-drained soil in full sun.Cut plants back to 3 inches(7.5 cm) after the first flushof bloom for color untilfrost, or sow again for fallblooms. Calendulas thrivein cool weather and keepblooming through the firstlight frosts. Let a few seed

heads stand for self-sown plantsnext spring.

COMMENTS: In olden days, gold-orange calendula petals were popu-lar in cooking, and their inclusionin certain concoctions supposedlyallowed the consumer to see fairies.On a more practical note, you canuse the crushed, dried petals as asubstitute for the coloring effect ofsaffron.

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CarrotDaucus carota var. sativaUM B E L L I F E R A E

A L L I E S : Companion gardeners saythat interplanted radishes, peas, orsage can improve the flavor of car-rots. Some believe that onions, leeks,and rosemary, perhaps because oftheir strong scent, repel root maggotflies. Interplanting with onions mayalso help repel carrot rust flies, aproblem in Northwest gardens.

COMPANIONS: These light feedersgrow well in company with mostother garden vegetables.

ENEMIES: Folklore suggests thatdill and anise cause poor growth incarrots.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Plant infull sun in deep, loose soil free ofrocks. Start sowing about 3 weeksbefore the average date of the lastspring frost. Sow about six of the

tiny seeds to each inch (2.5 cm), inrows 1 foot (30 cm) apart, andcover lightly with fine soil or asprinkling of sand. Water gentlywith a fine mist to avoid washing outseeds. Carrots germinate in about 2to 3 weeks. When tops reach 1 to 2inches (2.5 to 5 cm), thin plants tostand 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Thinagain to 4 inches (10 cm) apart inanother 2 weeks, so that roots haveplenty of room to grow. Make suc-cessive sowings every 3 weeksthrough the season until 3 monthsbefore the first fall frost for a con-tinuous crop of young, tender car-rots. Water before harvesting tosoften the soil, and pull by hand toavoid damaging the roots.

COMMENTS: If nematodes are aproblem in your patch, causing littleknots along roots and a stuntedcrop, plant the bed with Frenchmarigolds (Tagetes patula) theyear before sowing carrots. Till themarigolds into the soil at the end ofthe growing season.

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ChivesAllium schoenoprasumAM A RY L L I D A C E A E

ALLIES: Companion gardeners rec-ommend chives to improve growthand flavor of carrots, grapes, roses,and tomatoes. Some suggest that aring of chives around an apple treemay inhibit the growth of apple scab(possibly by affecting the sporescarried on dropped leaves); otherssay chives ward off Japanese beetlesor black spot in roses. No scientificstudies have been conducted toconfirm these reports.

COMPANIONS: Chives are too pret-ty to keep in the vegetable gardenalone. Use them for a neat andattractive border planting, punctu-ate the corners or centers of herbbeds with their spiky form, or weavea few clumps into the perennialborder.

ENEMIES: Some companion gar-deners believe that chives inhibit thegrowth of beans or peas.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Seedsrequire darkness to germinate. Sowa generous amount of seeds in eachpeat pot indoors. Cover the tray ofpots with a piece of newspaper orcardboard, then be patient—theyare slow to sprout. Transplant theyoung clumps, pot and all, to asunny spot in average, well-drainedsoil. Space clumps 18 inches (45cm) apart. Harvest leaves by cuttingthem off at ground level when they

reach 6 inches (15 cm) tall. Pinchoff spent flowers to prevent plantsfrom reseeding.

COMMENTS: Some companiongardeners recommend a spray ofchives processed with water in ablender to deter mildew on cucur-bits and gooseberries or black spoton roses. In the kitchen, snip freshleaves into pieces and freeze in zip-pered plastic bags for a readysource of seasoning in the winter.

CornZea maysGR A M I N E A E

ALLIES: The benefit of plantingcorn with beans has been upheld byscientific research, which showedincreased yields when corn wasgrown with a legume. Beans andcorn are mutually beneficial: Beanshelp keep fall armyworms in checkon corn, while corn minimizesleafhoppers on bean plants.Alternate rows of corn and bushbeans, two rows of corn to one ofbeans. Or plant pole beans to climbcorn stalks.

COMPANIONS: Sunflower borderswere a tradition in American Indiangardens. British research indicatesthat strips of sunflowers alternatedwith corn will increase yields anddecrease infestations of fall army-worms. Squash and pumpkins dowell in the shade of the corn rows.

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ENEMIES: The weed quack grass(Agropyron repens) appears tomake nitrogen and potassiumunavailable to corn, even when thearea is heavily fertilized. Leachedtoxins from wheat-straw mulchreduced corn yields in farmresearch by 44 to 94 percent.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Planyour rotations so that heavy-feedingcorn follows a nitrogen-boostingcrop of beans, alfalfa, or clover.Sow seed after all danger of frosthas passed and soil is warm. Plantin blocks to assure good pollina-tion, interplanting with single rowsof beans if desired.

Plant four seeds at a time: “Onefor the blackbird, one for the crow,and that leaves just two to grow,” inthe words of an old prairie homily.Sow seed 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep,and space the groups 12 to 15 inch-es (30 to 37.5 cm) apart, in rowsor in hills of soil. Thin to two plantsper group if needed. Side-dress withorganic fertilizer when plants are 6inches (15 cm) tall and again whenthey are knee-high. Start checkingyour corn for ripeness about threeweeks after the silks appear. Press afingernail against one of the ker-nels; if the sap looks milky, it’s timeto harvest.

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CosmosCosmos spp.CO M P O S I TA E

ALLIES: None known.

COMPANIONS: The flat daisy-likeflowers of cosmos make a goodlanding platform for honeybees andbeneficial insects seeking nectar orpollen. Plant either Cosmos bipin-natus, the old-fashioned, ferny-foliaged plant with pink, red, andwhite flowers, or C. sulphureus, thehot-colored, shorter type. Theabundant foliage offers shelter topredatory insects.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES: C o s m o sare easy to grow from seed and easyto transplant, even when quite large.After danger of frost has passed,direct-sow seed 1⁄4 inch (6 mm)deep in average, well-drained soil infull sun. Thin seedlings to standabout 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart, andpinch them when young and single-stemmed to encourage bushinessand branching. C. bipinnatus g r o w sfast and lush, and it occasionallyfalls over from its own weight, snap-ping a heavy branch of buds orbloom. To salvage the plant, stickthe broken end of the branch intothe ground a few inches deep, or layit horizontally and mound 2 to 3inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of soil over the

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stem. Keep the soil wet while newroots form from the stem. It willrecover in less than a week.

COMMENTS: Both types of cosmosare beautiful in bouquets. Try a fewstems of orange ‘Klondike’ blooms,buds, and spiky seed heads in agreen vase for an arrangement ofalmost oriental simplicity.

Cosmos is also an excellent plantfor attracting birds to the garden.Goldfinches are particularly fond ofthe seeds and often hang upsidedown, feasting on them from thetips of branches bowed beneaththeir weight.

CucumberCucumis sativusCU C U R B I TA C E A E

ALLIES: Cucumbers are reputed togrow better and yield more whenplanted with beans, cabbage, corn,peas, or radishes. Some companiongardeners believe that radishes lureaway cucumber beetles or that pun-gent-smelling marigolds repel them.Radishes and onions are supposedto keep away root maggots.Research has shown that cucum-bers interplanted with broccoli orcorn are less likely to be ravaged bycucumber beetles or affected by thebacterial wilt the beetles carry.Some studies show that some typesof cucumber inhibit weed growth.Spiny amaranth (Amaranthus spin-osus) plants standing among

cucumbers will serve as a trap cropfor black cutworms.

COMPANIONS: Interplant trellisedcucumbers with lettuce, celery, orChinese cabbage, all of which growwell in the light shade of the vines.Or grow cucumbers with cabbage,broccoli, or cauliflower; by the timethe cucumbers begin to sprawl, theearlier crops should be ready forharvesting.

ENEMIES: Potatoes growing nearcucumbers are reputed to be moresusceptible to Phytophthora blight.Companion gardeners also warnthat aromatic herbs and cucumbersdo not make good neighbors.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Growcucumbers in hills or rows in fer-tile, well-drained soil in full sun.Sow seed 1⁄2 inch deep, or set outtransplants 3 weeks after the lastspring frost date, when soil haswarmed. Thin or space plants tostand 12 inches (30 cm) apart.Water regularly to keep the soilevenly moist and help prevent bitterfruit. Apply an organic fertilizer, likefish emulsion, monthly.

Grow cucumbers on vertical trel-lises to save precious gardeningspace and make harvesting easier.Keep cucumbers picked regularly,before they yellow, to encourage thevines to keep producing.

COMMENTS: If diseases are aproblem in your area, select dis-ease-resistant cultivars such as‘Marketmore 76’ or ‘Sweet Slice’.

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DillAnethum graveolensUM B E L L I F E R A E

ALLIES: Dill is a useful plant in thecompanion garden, thanks to itsbig, airy umbels of many tiny flow-ers. Mud daubers and other largepredatory wasps, as well as manysmaller beneficials, visit the flowersregularly and may return to yourgarden when they need caterpillarsto feed their young. Companion gar-deners say that dill improves thegrowth and health of cabbage andrelated crops. It’s also reputed torepel aphids and spider mites, mostlikely because of its aroma. Dill maybe effective as a trap crop for thick,green tomato hornworms.Handpick the pests, or pull anddestroy infested crops. (Don’tdestroy caterpillars with little whitecocoons on their backs, though;these have been parasitized by ben-eficial wasps.)

COMPANIONS: Sow dill with let-tuce, onions, or cucumbers; theplants’ habits complement eachother well.

ENEMIES: Many growers are con-vinced that dill reduces the yieldof carrots. This belief may berooted in the fact that bothplants are susceptible tosome of the same dis-eases. Some companiongardeners believe that

tomatoes planted near dill will failto thrive.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Dill canbe temperamental about germinat-ing. It sprouts better in cool ratherthan hot weather. Sow seed 1⁄4 inch(6 mm) deep and 4 inches (10 cm)apart in spring in average, well-drained soil in full sun. Thinseedlings to stand 8 to 12 inches(20 to 30 cm) apart. Sow every 2weeks for a continuous supply.Once you have a thriving dill patch,chances are you’ll have it for years;it self-sows liberally.

C O M M E N T S : D o n ’t be alarmed byan infestation of green-black-and-yellow caterpillars on your dill. Letthe creatures feed; they’ll turn intograceful black swallowtail butterflies.

GarlicAllium sativumAM A RY L L I D A C E A E

ALLIES: Garlic is often recom-mended by companion gardeners asan insect-repelling plant, especiallyfor planting around roses and fordeterring Japanese beetles and

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aphids. Science has proven insecti-cidal qualities of garlic sprays, butits effectiveness as a companionplant in the garden is unconfirmed.

C O M PA N I O N S : Plant garlic betweentomatoes, eggplants, or cabbageplants, or use as a border planting.

ENEMIES: Garlic, like onions, issaid to have a negative effect onpeas, beans, and other legumes.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Plantgarlic in fall, around Columbus Day,for a vigorous crop. Garlic needs achilling period for best growth, andfall-planted bulbs will benefit fromthe winter cold. The bulbs will putout a few roots before winter, butgreen shoots usually won’t appearuntil spring.

Some supermarket bulbs aretreated with antisprouting chemi-cals, but others will yield a perfectlyacceptable garlic crop. Each bulb

contains a number of individualcloves; plant them one by one tomature into fat bulbs. Give garlic asite with loose, rich soil in full sun.Plant cloves 2 inches (5 cm) deepand 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Mulchto keep weeds down, and waterduring dry spells.

A 20-foot (6 m) row will yield 5 to10 pounds (2.5 to 5 kg) of garlic.Timing the harvest is a little tricky:too early and bulbs will be small;too late and the outer skin may tear,making the bulbs store poorly. Wa i tuntil leaves begin to turn brown,then check the status of one headbefore you harvest the whole crop.Hang bulbs by the leaves to dry, orweave them into a braid.

COMMENTS: Garlic oil is a proveninsecticide and may have some effecton fungal or bacterial diseases.

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GeraniumPelargonium spp.GE R A N I A C E A E

ALLIES: The pungent foliage offlowering and scented geraniums isappealing to companion gardenersbut not to garden pests. The showyflowering types of geranium arereputed to repel cabbageworms,corn earworms, and Japanese bee-tles. The scented ones are thoughtto deter red spider mites and cottonaphids. Some companion gardenersbelieve that white-flowered scentedgeraniums are effective as a trapcrop for Japanese beetles; handpickthe beetles from the leaves.

COMPANIONS: Interplant floweringor scented geraniums with vegeta-bles—especially among cabbageand its relatives—or use as a borderto the vegetable garden. Plant white-or pink-flowering geraniums aroundroses for a pretty (and possibly pest-controlling) combination.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES:Geraniums are easy to start fromcuttings; some types will also growfrom seed. Grow plants in full sun inlean to average, well-drained soil.Remove spent flowers on seed-grown plants to encourage moreblooms. In frost-free climates, gera-niums are perennial; elsewhere,take cuttings in late summer or potup plants when frost threatens andbring indoors to overwinter. Plants

grow tall and crooked with age, anappealing look to some companiongardeners but not to others. Toreclaim an old plant, cut the stemsback to short stubs; this will encour-age vigorous new growth. Pot up thecuttings to get more plants.

COMMENTS: The dense, leafygrowth provides welcome hidingplaces for insect predators, espe-cially spiders. Scented types addappealing texture to ornamentalbeds. Try the rose-scented ‘GreyLady Plymouth’, with lacy, gray-green leaves delicately edged inwhite and pink, or peppermintgeranium, with large, wide velvetyleaves. Keep a pot of scented gerani-ums near walkways, where passers-by will brush against the foliage andrelease the fragrance.

LettuceLactuca sativaCO M P O S I TA E

ALLIES: Many companion garden-ers maintain that lettuce grows bestwhen planted near or with straw-berries, carrots, cucumbers, cab-bage-family crops, and beets.Companion gardening tradition rec-ommends planting lettuce withradishes for the mutual benefit ofboth crops.

COMPANIONS: Plant lettuce belowand around taller vegetables, suchas cabbage, broccoli, and beans, oredge a bed with it. Interplant rows

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of leaf lettuce with rows of beans,peas, and tomatoes.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Lettucethrives in fertile, well-drained butmoisture-retentive soil with plentyof organic matter. Sow seed in fullsun as early as you can work thesoil. Plant lettuce in rows, or broad-cast the tiny seeds over a smallpatch. Sow as evenly as possible.Thin ruthlessly; you can always eatthe thinnings. Allow 12 to 16 inches(30 to 40 cm) between plants forheading types; space plants 6 to 8inches (15 to 20 cm) apart for leafytypes. Water regularly to keep plantsgrowing well, and side-dress withmanure tea for rapid growth. Makea second and third planting 2 weeksapart to extend your lettuce harvest

well into the summer. In areas withhot summers, look for heat-resis-tant cultivars such as ‘Mantilia’,‘Grand Rapids’, and ‘Summer Bibb’.Plant summer lettuce in the shadeof bean trellises or other tall plants.

Harvest lettuce in the morning,when it is the most juicy and crispy.Pick leaf lettuce as needed. Pressdown on heading types to check forthe springy firmness that indicatesthe head is ready to harvest. Whenplants start to elongate and send upa flowering stalk, the leaves becometoo bitter to enjoy.

COMMENTS: If you have the space,leave a row of lettuce to flower andset seed. Lettuce flowers attract amultitude of insects, including ben-eficials; birds relish the seeds.

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MarigoldTagetes spp.CO M P O S I TA E

ALLIES: Marigolds have acquired alarge body of companion gardeninglore surrounding their reputedinsect-repelling qualities.Companion gardeners suggestplanting them with cabbage, pota-toes, tomatoes, and roses, insistingthat the pungently scented plantscontrol aphids, cabbage loopers,imported cabbageworms, Mexicanbean beetles, and nematodes. Onlya few of the claims are backed upby scientific research, and some-times the results are contradictory.In addition, marigolds appear tohave an allelopathic effect on someneighbors. In one study, Frenchmarigolds (Tagetes patula)repelled Mexican bean beetles, butthe growth of the beans was stunted,apparently by the presence of themarigolds. Nematode studies aremore definitive, showing a decreasein population in at least five speciesof nematodes. Spectacular nema-tode control resulted whenmarigolds were interplanted withtomatoes.

COMPANIONS: Due to the possibleallelopathic effects, it’s probablybest to plant marigolds and vegeta-bles in separate beds. Grow themarigolds as a cover crop and turnthem into the soil at the end of theseason.

ENEMIES: Marigolds appear to beallelopathic to beans and vegetablesof the cabbage family.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Sowseed in lean to average soil with fullsun after the last frost, or start withpurchased plants. Space them 12 to24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart.Pinch off spent flowers to promotebushy growth and more flowers. Atthe end of the season, let a few seedheads mature and save the seed fornext year.

COMMENTS: Mulches of marigoldleaves have been effective in sup-pressing nematodes; root mulchesare also repellent. These findingssuggest that you might be better offtossing pulled-up marigolds on thegarden rather than on the compostpile.

MintMentha spp.LA B I ATA E

ALLIES: These strong-smellingplants are favorites with companiongardeners who believe that thesharp fragrance repels insect pests.Some believe that mint alsoimproves the vigor and flavor ofcabbage and tomatoes.

COMPANIONS: Mint is notoriouslyinvasive, so don’t allow it free reinin your garden. If you want to growmint around your crops, plant it inpots and set the pots near the plants

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you want to protect. Place a saucerbeneath the pot to prevent the rootsfrom creeping into the garden soil.Some low-growing mints, such aspennyroyal, are not as rampant astaller apple mint, spearmint, andother species.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Growmint in average soil in full sun orpartial shade. Extra moisture willencourage more vigorousgrowth. Buy plants or beg acutting from a friend or neigh-bor to start your patch;mint cuttings areextremely easy to root.Lay the clipping horizon-tally on the surface of aver-age to lean soil in full sun,

and cover it in a few places withabout 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) of patted-down soil. Keep the soil moist untilvigorous new growth appears, usu-ally in just a few weeks. Seed-grownmint may or may not have a strongscent; rub a leaf and sniff beforebuying potted garden-center mintsto make sure you are getting whatyou want. Even a young seedlingshould have a strong, distinctivesmell of peppermint, spearmint, orwhatever it is being sold as.

COMMENTS: Spearmint and pep-permint, some say, will repel antson plants or in the kitchen. Lay a

fresh sprig in drawers andon shelves. Mints may also

help protect woolensfrom moth damage.

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NasturtiumTropaeolum majusTR O PA E O L A C E A E

ALLIES: Companion gardeners rec-ommend nasturtiums as a trap cropfor aphids; pull up and destroy theinfested plants. Nasturtiums are alsosaid to deter pests—includingwhiteflies—from beans, cabbageand its relatives, and cucumbers.Some companion gardeners plantnasturtiums where they will laterplant their squash, hoping to keepsquash bugs away. Scientific trialsshow conflicting evidence. In sometests, pests are reduced; in others,the nasturtiums had no effect, orworse, appeared to draw pests tothe garden. It’s worth conductingyour own field trials.

COMPANIONS: Nasturtiums areavailable in compact or trailingforms. They flower well in poor soiland tend to produce more leavesthan flowers if you plant them in the rich soil of the vegetable garden.Trailing types are pretty in a windowbox with marigolds and other annuals.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Nastur-tiums grow and flower best in aver-age to poor soil. Plant seed 1⁄2 inch(12 mm) deep in full sun in well-drained soil after danger of frosthas passed. Thin or space plants tostand 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm)apart. Mulching and watering will

encourage blooms during hotweather.

COMMENTS: The colorful, spurredflowers attract hummingbirds. Theyare also a charming and flavorfulgarnish for salads.

OnionAllium cepaAM A RY L L I D A C E A E

ALLIES: Some gardeners believethat onions thrive with cabbage,beets, strawberries, and lettuce.Summer savory planted nearby issaid to improve their flavor. Onionsinterplanted with potatoes arebelieved to deter Colorado potatobeetles. Some companion gardenersplant onions with carrots to fend offcarrot rust flies that cause rootmaggots, and many plant onionsaround rose bushes to deter pests.

COMPANIONS: Shallow-rooted,narrow-growing onions are easy tosqueeze in anywhere in the garden.Interplant them with annual orperennial vegetables or use as borders to edge a bed.

ENEMIES: Peas, beans, and sageare the traditional bad neighborsfor onions.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Usebulbs, or “sets”, for interplanting—they are easy to pop into theground, singly or in handfuls, wher-ever you want them. Many compan-ion gardeners plant sets one by one,

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pointed-side up, but if you are sow-ing a lot of onions for eating greenand don’t mind crooked stems, youcan simply pour the sets from thebag into the row. Cover them with 1inch (2.5 cm) of soil and firm thesurface; the new shoots will rightthemselves.

When onion tops yellow, knockthem over. Dig the bulbs when thetops turn brown. Dry them in thesun in rows, laying the first row inone direction and the next row inthe opposite direction. Lay the topsof the second row over the bulbs ofthe first row to prevent sunscald.When skins are completely dry,wipe off the soil, remove the tops,and store the bulbs in a cool, airyspot. You can also keep the driedtops on and braid the onions forstorage.

COMMENTS: Select a cultivar bestsuited to your gardening climateand season length; check seed cata-logs for recommendations.

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ParsleyPetroselinum crispumUM B E L L I F E R A E

ALLIES: Many companion garden-ers are convinced that parsleyrepels asparagus beetles. Othersbelieve that parsley reduces carrotrust flies and beetles on roses.Interplanted parsley may alsohelp invigorate tomatoes.

COMPANIONS: Rosettes of darkgreen parsley add a neat, old-fash-ioned touch to all kinds of gardenbeds. Plant parsley around the baseof roses.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES: P a r s l e yis notoriously slow to germinate—according to an old homily, theseeds go to the devil and back seventimes before breaking through thesoil. Buy young plants, or sow seedshallowly in spring. Grow parsley infull sun or light shade in well-drained, average soil. After the newplant is established, harvest sprigsas needed. Parsley blooms in itssecond year and sometimes self-sows if you let a few seed headss t a n d .

COMMENTS: Dried parsleyquickly loses flavor. Save a

winter’s worth of this versatile herbby chopping and freezing in zip-pered plastic bags. In order toattract beneficial insects to the gar-den, let a few plants flower and goto seed. Tiny parasitic wasps areespecially fond of the very smallflowers, which are clustered togeth-er in umbels.

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PeaPisum sativumLE G U M I N O S A E

ALLIES: Companion gardenersbelieve this nitrogen-fixing legumestimulates the growth of corn,beans, potatoes, tomatoes, radishes,carrots, turnips, and cucumbers.Scientific research indicates thatexudates from the roots of cabbage-family crops may help prevent pearoot rot.

COMPANIONS: Grow tomatoes,eggplants, lettuce, or spinach in theshade of trellised pea plants. Thepea vines also protect these tendercrops from wind damage. Alternaterows of peas with shade-tolerantChinese cabbage.

ENEMIES: Onions and garlic arereputed to have a negative effect onthe growth of peas.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Peasthrive in average, well-drained soil

in full sun. Sow seed 1 inch (2.5cm) deep in early spring, up to 2months before the last expectedfrost. Some gardeners start peasindoors in individual peat pots. Thinor space plants to stand 3 inches(7.5 cm) apart. Mulch to controlweeds and keep the soil evenlymoist. Give plants a trellis to climb,or let short-vining cultivars trail onthe ground. After you harvest anearly crop of peas, remove the vinesand plant squash, beans, or othercrops to utilize the space.

COMMENTS: A weedy garden mayimprove your pea crop. Researchersfound that white mustard shelters aparasite of pea aphids, and weedsalso provide an egg-laying site forhover flies, which parasitize aphidsand other soft-bodied pests.

Pea greens are an oriental delica-cy. Plant an extra row of peas andleave them unthinned to supply yourkitchen with these tasty, delicategreens.

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PepperCapsicum frutescens,Grossum groupSO L A N A C E A E

ALLIES: Companion gardeners rec-ommend planting peppers with car-rots and onions for vigorous growthand good flavor. Basil, lovage, mar-joram, and oregano are also said tostimulate their growth. Gardeners inIndia use marigolds to protect pep-pers and other crops from nema-todes. Scientific studies indicatemarigolds are effective in reducingaphids on peppers; other strong-smelling plants, such as coriander,catnip, onions, nasturtiums, andtansy, may have the same effect.

COMPANIONS: Plant peppers withokra for protection from sun andwind damage. They often drop theirblossoms in temperatures over 90°F(32°C); keep them cool by growingwith taller plants that will providesome shade during the hottest partof the day.

ENEMIES: Some companion gar-deners keep kohlrabi and fennelaway from pepper plants. It’s best tokeep peppers away from beans;both are susceptible to anthracnose,a disease that causes dark, softspots on fruits.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Buynursery-grown seedlings, or startseed indoors in peat pots 8 weeksbefore the last spring frost. Seedsare slow to germinate, often waiting3 to 4 weeks to make an appear-ance. Thin to one plant per potwhen they reach 3 inches (7.5 cm)high, snipping off the extras with a

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pair of small scissors. Transplant tofertile, well-drained soil in full sun,2 to 3 weeks after the last springfrost. Space plants 11⁄2 to 2 feet (45to 60 cm) apart; hot peppers toler-ate closer spacing than sweet pep-pers. Mulch to maintain even mois-ture, and water during dry spells toprevent bitterness. A dose of fishemulsion when plants are in flowercan help increase yields. Sweet pep-pers turn from green to red, yellow,or purple as they mature, gettingsweeter with the color change; pickat any stage. Hot peppers alsochange color when it’s time to pick.

PotatoSolanum tuberosumSO L A N A C E A E

A L L I E S : Many companion gardenersrecommend planting potatoes withbeans, cabbage, corn, or horse-radish for improved growth and fla-v o r. They also often recommendmarigolds to ward off pests andsometimes plant eggplants as a trapcrop for Colorado potato beetles.Tests at the Rodale Research Centerin Pennsylvania with plantings of cat-nip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansyresulted in a slightly reduced infesta-tion of beetle larvae. According toone study, tomato-family weeds suchas jimson weed and nightshadeattract female Colorado potato

beetles away from the crop to laytheir eggs on the weeds, especiallywhen the weeds are growing upwind.

COMPANIONS: Plant lettuce,radishes, and green onions withpotatoes; they mature long beforethe tuber crop is ready to dig.

ENEMIES: Companion gardenerssay potatoes may be more suscepti-ble to blight if grown near raspber-ries, pumpkins, tomatoes, squash,cucumbers, and sunflowers.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Potatoesthrive in loose, fertile, well-drainedsoil in full sun. Cut whole potatoesinto pieces, each with two or three“eyes” (growing points), and letthem dry for a day before planting.Plant the pieces as soon as you canwork the soil, spacing them 6 to 12inches (15 to 30 cm) apart and 4inches (10 cm) deep. As the vinesgrow, pull soil over the developingtubers to prevent them from turninggreen, or cover them with compost,leaves, or straw. Some companiongardeners grow potatoes in cages;fill the cage with straw as the plantsgrow, leaving only 3 to 4 inches(7.5 to 10 cm) of leaves exposed.

Blossoms are a sign that newpotatoes are ready to harvest.Uncover a layer and pluck off tubersthat are big enough to eat; cover therest. When the tops of the plantsbegin to die back, it’s harvest time.

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RoseRosa spp.RO S A C E A E

ALLIES: Alliums—including garlic,onions, leeks, and chives—arereputed to protect roses againstblack spot, mildew, and aphids.Parsley is said to repel rose beetles.Some companion gardeners suggestthat strongly aromatic herbs mayalso repel aphids.

COMPANIONS: You can growroses in a bed of their own, orweave them into perennial beds andborders. Use shrub types, such asdisease-resistant rugosa roses(Rosa rugosa), for hedges or barri-ers or to provide food and shelterfor wildlife. Low-growing plants,such as creeping thyme or sweetalyssum, make attractive ground-covers beneath rose bushes; thesesmall-flowered plants may alsoattract beneficials to protect roses.

ENEMIES: As with all members ofthe rose family, never plant a new

rose in an old rose’s “grave”:Disease pathogens or allelopathicsubstances that hinder the growth ofa new plant of the same genus maybe lurking in the soil.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Rosesneed at least 6 hours of sun eachday, and they must have excellentdrainage. They do best in fertile soilenriched with humus or otherorganic material. In most climates,fall is the best time for plantingbareroot roses. (You can plantbareroot roses in winter in verymild climates; spring is a bettertime in areas with very cold win-ters.) Plant container-grown rosesanytime during the growing season.Dig the hole deep enough so thegraft union—the scar on the stemthat indicates where the rose hasbeen budded onto its rootstock—isat or just below the soil surface.Trim canes back to 8 inches (20cm), and mulch plants with com-post. After the first hard frost, pruneroses back halfway, and mulchdeeply with loose leaves or coarse

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compost, mounding it around thecanes. Prune off and destroy anydiseased leaves or branches.

RosemaryRosmarinus officinalisLA B I ATA E

ALLIES: Rosemary is popular as acompanion for cabbage, broccoli,and related crops, as well as carrotsand onions. Its fragrance is said torepel insects; companion gardenersuse it for cabbage flies, root maggotflies, and other flying pests.

COMPANIONS: Gardeners in warmclimates—especially the PacificSouthwest, where rosemary reachesshrub proportions—can enjoy thisattractive, aromatic plant as a hedgeor border. Prostrate types makebeautiful groundcovers for stonybanks or streetside rock gardens.Rosemary is a natural addition to

herb gardens. The small flowers willattract many bees.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Growfrom cuttings or buy a started plant.This tender perennial often won’tsurvive the winter in areas colderthan Zone 7. Use as a pot plant inNorthern gardens, or plant it outduring summer and pot up cuttingsfor overwintering. In containers orin the garden, rosemary thrives onheat. Plant in full sun in average,well-drained soil. Never allow con-tainer plantings to dry out; rose-mary does not recover from severewilting.

COMMENTS: Rosemary has alsowon favor as a defense againstclothes moths. Banckes wrote in hisHerbal: “Take the flowers and putthem in thy chest among thy clothesor among thy Bookes and Mothesshall not destroy them.”

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SageSalvia officinalisLA B I ATA E

ALLIES: Many companion garden-ers believe that sage improves thegrowth and flavor of cabbage, car-rots, strawberries, and tomatoes.They also believe that it deters cab-bage-family pests such as importedcabbageworms and root maggotflies. In one study, cabbagewormswere not reduced by companionplantings with sage; another study ofsage spray revealed some effective-ness in controlling the pest. Sage isalso thought to grow well with mar-joram.

COMPANIONS: The plentiful, usu-ally blue, flowers of this perennialherb are attractive to bees and otherinsects, including beneficials. Usesage as a border planting, or dot theplants among annual or perennialvegetables; they grow to an appre-ciable size in just one season. Sageis an attractive plant for a steep, drybank. Purple-leaved or tricoloredcultivars work well in combinationwith the usual gray-leaved sage.

ENEMIES: Sage is thought to stuntthe growth of cucumbers. Manycompanion gardeners believe thatsage and rue make poor neighbors.Long ago, people believed that sageand onions had a negative effect oneach other in the garden.

GROWING GUIDELINES: S a g eneeds full sun and average, well-

drained soil. Sow seed shallowlyindoors in late winter or outdoors inlate spring. Space plants about 24inches (60 cm) apart. Trim backdrastically in early spring to encour-age vigorous, bushy new growth.Plants may decline after severalyears; take cuttings or divide inspring or fall to have a steady supply.

COMMENTS: A branch of stronglyaromatic sage is a fragrant additionto a sweater drawer or blanketchest, and it may help keep clothesmoths away. Herbalists recommendthe herb for increasing longevity—and for keeping your mind sharp.

SquashCucurbita spp.CU C U R B I TA C E A E

A L L I E S : Squash, one of theAmerican Indians’ “three sisters,” istraditionally grown with corn andbeans. Some companion gardenersrecommend a nearby planting ofradishes, nasturtiums, or mint andother aromatic herbs torepel insect pests

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such as squash bugs. Studies at theRodale test gardens have shown apossible reduction of squash bugs onzucchini paired with catnip or tansy.

COMPANIONS: Summer squash,such as crookneck and zucchini,grow on bushy, nonvining plants.Winter squash, such as acorn, but-ternut, and Hubbard, produce verylong vines. Plant both kinds withcorn. Tall sunflowers are anothersuitable companion crop.

ENEMIES: Gardening lore suggeststhat squash plants may inhibit thegrowth of potatoes.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Squashthrives in fertile, well-drained soil infull sun. After the last frost, plantseed 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep whenthe soil has warmed. Space summersquash 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm)apart; winter, 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120

cm) apart. You can also grow win-ter squash up sturdy trellises to savespace; suspend ripening fruits in apanty-hose sling. Water with fishemulsion every 3 to 4 weeks. Mulchwith straw to keep the soil moist.Gently guide straying vines backwhere they belong.

Summer squash fruits grow fast.Pick them every few days, while theyare still young and tender, to keepthe plant producing. Harvest wintersquash when the shell is too hard todent with a fingernail. Let wintersquash cure in the sun for 10 to 14days; cover if frost is expected.

COMMENTS: Squash are suscepti-ble to various pests and ailmentsthat can cause serious damage.Watch for signs of trouble, like wilt-ing vines, which can indicate squashborers or bacterial wilt; destroyinfected plants.

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SunflowerHelianthus annuusCO M P O S I TA E

ALLIES: None known.

COMPANIONS: Sunflowers arecommonly planted with corn,beans, and squash. Plant a strip oftall-growing sunflowers betweenplantings of popcorn and sweetcorn to block wind-borne pollenthat could cross-pollinate the crops.

ENEMIES: Research is turning upstrong evidence of allelopathy insunflowers, in both wild types andcultivars. Wild sunflowers, a com-mon crop weed, have been shownto inhibit or prevent the growth ofmany species of plants. Field andlaboratory studies show that culti-vated types can be equally detrimen-tal to some of their neighbors. Justhow significant the effect is in thehome garden has yet to be deter-mined. Most home companion gar-deners notice no detrimental effectsfrom the plants; some claim that thesunflower hulls dropped from birdfeeders inhibit plant growth aroundthe base of the feeder.

GROWING GUIDELINES:Sunflowers couldn’t be simpler togrow. They thrive in average soil infull sun. In spring, after danger offrost has passed, push a seed 1⁄2 inch(12 mm) deep into the soil every 6inches (15 cm); thin to 18 to 24inches (45 to 60 cm) apart. You

can transplant the thinnings. Plantsare drought-tolerant, but mulchingand regular watering will encouragelarger seed heads.

COMMENTS: Before you crosssunflowers off your companion list,do a little experimenting yourself.Most research has been done on thesunflower’s effect on weeds, such asjimson weed, velvetleaf, Johnsongrass, and others, not on home gar-den crops.

If you enjoy growing sunflowersfor their blooms, plant a variety ofcolors, and be sure to grow extrasfor cutting. ‘Lemon Gem’ has blackseeds and sulfur yellow petals; othercultivars, including ‘Autumn Beauty’,‘Music Box Mix’, and ‘Velvet Queen’,offer russets, burgundy, or yellowblotched with brown.

ThymeThymus spp.LA B I ATA E

ALLIES: Companion gardeners rec-ommend planting thyme with justabout everything in the garden; thisherb is said to improve flavor andrepel pests. Eggplants, cabbage,potatoes, and tomatoes are oftenmentioned as companions.Scientific evidence is sparse; in onestudy, the presence of thymeappeared to increase the populationof cabbageworms on neighboringplants. Another study suggests thatthyme sprays may be more effective

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at masking plants from pests thatseek hosts by smell.

COMPANIONS: Grow only non-spreading types of this herb in thevegetable garden. Common thyme(Thymus vulgaris), an upright,shrubby type, is a good choice forinterplanting with vegetables.Spreading, mat-forming thymes,such as the popular woolly thyme(T. pseudolanuginosus), the rapid-ly creeping nutmeg thyme (T.herbabarona ‘Nutmeg’), and manyothers, are best kept in separatebeds or in the herb and flower gar-den. Delicately pretty in leaf andflower, a carpet of thyme makes abeautiful underplanting for roses.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Thymethrives in poor to average, well-drained soil in full sun. Commonthyme is easy to grow from seedsown shallowly indoors in late win-ter. Sprinkle the seed generouslyinto pots. Buy other species andcultivars as plants from garden cen-ters. Cuttings are extremely easy toroot. Layering is also a good way tocreate more plants; simply nudge abit of soil over a low-growingbranch and anchor with a stone.Sever the rooted plant from themother when it begins producingvigorous growth and resists a slighttug. Divide older plants in spring.

COMMENTS: A sampler garden ofthymes, including yellow-edgedlemon thyme (T. x citriodorus),diminutive woolly thyme, white-edged silver thyme (T. x citriodorus‘Argentea’), and other favorites, iseasy and appealing.

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TomatoLycopersicon esculentumSO L A N A C E A E

ALLIES: Companion gardenersplant tomatoes with asparagus,broccoli, cauliflower, cabbages, car-rots, and onions, hoping forimproved growth and flavor.Aromatic basil, parsley, and sage arealso supposed to make tomatoeseven more of a treat;dill and borage are

said to deter hornworms. In ones t u d y, intercropping tomatoes withplants of the cabbage family resultedin reduced populations of diamond-back moths and flea beetles in thecabbage-family crops.

Gardeners often interplantmarigolds with tomatoes to controlnematodes, but studies indicate thatthe best way to control nema-todes—if they are indeed a prob-lem in your garden—is to plant awhole bed of marigolds, then turn itunder and follow it with tomatoes.

COMPANIONS: Surround tomatoeswith aromatic herbs, or plant theminto an already-growing bed ofspinach, lettuce, or other fast-growing crops.

ENEMIES: Black walnut rootscause tomato plants to wilt and die.Companion gardeners believe that

tomatoes fail to thrive when plantednear fennel or potatoes. Av o i d

planting tomatoes where relat-ed plants, such as eggplantsand potatoes, grew the previ-ous 2 years.

GROWING GUIDELINES:Tomatoes thrive in full sun indeep, fertile, well-drained soil.Start plants from seed sown 1⁄4inch (6 mm) deep indoors, 5to 6 weeks before the averagedate of the last expected frost

in your area. Or, buy nursery-grown plants. After all danger of

frost has passed, set plants outin the garden; make the

hole deep enough so soil

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covers the stem up to the bottomleaves. Space them 12 to 24 inches(30 to 60 cm) apart if you plan tocage or trellis the plants; allow 36 to48 inches (90 to 120 cm) betweenplants if you plan to let them sprawl.Mulch with compost in midsummer,and water once with fish emulsionwhen plants are in bloom.

ZinniaZinnia elegansCO M P O S I TA E

ALLIES: Zinnias attract insects ofall kinds to the garden with theirbright flowers and bushy foliage.Nectar-seeking wasps and hoverflies are two of the beneficials thatcome to the feast. Zinnias alsoattract butterflies of many species,from small coppery metalmarks tobig, showy swallowtails.

COMPANIONS: Zinnias are out-standing plants for beds, borders,and containers. These rewarding,gaily colored annuals bloom prolifi-cally from summer until frost.Interplant in the vegetable garden to

add a dash of color. Be sure to growa few rows just for cutting; cut flow-ers stay fresh for over a week withno special treatment.

ENEMIES: None known.

GROWING GUIDELINES: Zinniasthrive in full sun in average, well-drained soil and are at their best inhot summer weather. They areamong the quickest and easiestannuals you can grow from seed.Direct-sow 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) deep inspring after danger of frost haspassed. Deadhead regularly to keepthe flowers coming. Powderymildew often causes dusty whitespots on the foliage. Antidessicantsprays may help protect leaves. Or,look for resistant species and culti-vars, such as Zinnia angustifolia.

COMMENTS: Let some plants go toseed to attract goldfinches andother seed eaters to the garden.Easy-to-grow zinnias are a greatway to introduce children to thepleasures of growing flowers. Younggardeners are particularly enchant-ed by peppermint-striped cultivarsand extra-small miniatures, such as‘Thumbelina’.

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