KIE355 – Industrial Colorants

Colorants in Cosmetics (Video Script)

Definition of Colorants, Cosmetics and Cosmetic Products

According to Oxford’s Advanced Learner’s Dictionary, Colorants are defined as substances that

are used to put colour in something while cosmetics are substances that you put on your face or

body to make it more attractive. These definitions, however, slightly differs from the ones given

by the ASEAN Cosmetic Directives (ACD). They define cosmetic products as any substance or

preparation intended to place in contact with various external parts of the human body or with

teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning

them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, correcting body odours, protecting them,

keeping them in good conditions.

The List of Cosmetic Products and the Ones Covered

There is a list by category of cosmetic products given by the ASEAN Cosmetic Directives (ACD)

covering a wide variety of cosmetic products ranging from creams, gels, lotions, toiletries like

soap and shower products, nail products, sunbathing products, etc. Since our given topic today is

colorants in cosmetics, we will then be focusing only on coloured cosmetic products like make

up for the face, eyes, and lips, nail products for manicure and pedicure as well as coloured

toiletries like soap.

Common Colorants used in Cosmetics

Mica

Mica is used as a colorant in makeup, nail products as well as skin care products. It can be

obtained in the form of white powder from the naturally occurring mineral, muscovite mica.

Muscovite mica consists predominantly of potassium and aluminium silicate. It must comply

with FDA specifications. It is insoluble in water and it is available in a variety of colours except

bright red.

Ultramarines

Ultramarines are colorants used in eye makeup (FDA approved), not recommended for nail

products and are generally prohibited from lipsticks. It is a complex sodium aluminium

KIE355 – Industrial Colorants

sulfosilicates which can be made by heating a mixture of kaolin, sulfur, sodium carbonate,

siliceous matter, sodium sulfate and carbonaceous matter at temperatures above 700oC. Different

proportions of elements (sodium, aluminium, silica, oxygen and sulfur) produce different

coloured pigments. It is present in blue, green, pink, red and violet pigments.

Ferric Ferrocyanide

Ferric Ferrocyanide is used as a colorant in cosmetic products applied to the area of the eye and

is prohibited to be used in products intended for use on the lips. It is a synthetic dark blue

pigment often referred to as Prussian Blue. Ferric Ferrocyanide are straight colours which means

they are colour additives that have not been mixed or chemically reacted with any other

substances.

Carmine

Carmine is used as a colorant in makeup for the eyes and lips as well as in nail polish. It must

comply with FDA specifications. Carmine is a natural bright red pigment derived from cochineal

(dried female insect). It needs to be pasteurized or treated to destroy all viable Salmonella

microorganisms.

Manganese Violet

Manganese Violet is used as a colorant in makeup for the eyes and lips, hair colouring products,

bath products and nail polish when it conforms to FDA specifications. It is a synthetic violet

pigment obtained by reacting phosphoric acid, ammonium dihydrogen orthophosphate and

manganese dioxide at temperatures above 450oF.

Iron Oxides

Iron oxides is used as a colorant in makeup for the lips and area of the eye. It has to comply with

FDA specifications. It is an inorganic compound consisting of any one or combinations of

synthetically prepared iron oxides that includes hydrated forms of iron oxides. Synthetic iron

oxides are produced in various ways, including thermal decomposition of iron salts, such as

ferrous sulfate, to produce reds, precipitation to produce yellows, reds, browns and blacks and

the reduction of organic compounds by iron to produce yellows and blacks.

KIE355 – Industrial Colorants

Health Effects of Cosmetic Colorants and Safety Precautions

The followings are some of the health risks that are present in 6 of the common colorants

mentioned in the previous section.

Mica, ultramarines, iron oxides and manganese violet are compounds that come from the earth’s

mineral sources. Therefore, trace amounts of heavy metals may be present in them. However, the

levels of heavy metals regulated by FDA and the small amounts that may eventually be in

cosmetics do not pose a risk to human health.

Ferric ferrocyanide contains iron which are very tightly bounded to cyanide. This may sound

scary but the cyanide is so tightly bounded to the iron that it is not released into products that

contain these pigments.

Carmine is a red pigment extracted from cochineal and thus will cause asthmatic attacks, intense

allergies as well as anaphylactic shock in individuals who are allergic to it.

Hence, if you are having sensitive skin, you should:

1. Choose powder when possible

- Powdered cosmetics have very few preservatives and contain minimal ingredients

that can cause skin irritation as compared to their liquid counterparts.

2. Stick to earth-toned eye shadow

- Lighter earth tones, such as tan, cream, white or beige, seems to cause less upper

eyelid irritation in woman with sensitive or itchy eyes.

3. Always read the labels first

- Some active ingredients can trigger allergic reactions

- Find Carmine-free products if you are allergic to Carmine.

4. Perform a mini patch test

KIE355 – Industrial Colorants

- If tester is available, you should perform a mini patch test by rubbing your wrist with

the product and wait for 24 hours to see whether redness appears on tested area. If

you get no allergic reaction, you can return to the store and buy the product.

Cosmetic Labelling

There is a rule on how cosmetic products should be labeled according to FDA. On each label, the

followings must be present.

- Description

- Ingredients

- Net Quantity of Contents

- Place of Manufacture

- Place of Distribution

- Precautions

- Instruction Manual

- Warnings

Cosmetic Tip: How to choose a colour for Cosmetics that suites you?

I have been to a Clinique workshop on “How to choose colours for your cosmetics” last semester

at my university. And in that workshop, the beauty experts told us that if we were to choose a

colour of foundation that is suitable for us, it must be half a shade lighter than your skin colour.

For blusher, you will have to look at your palm after you unfold your fist. Compare the colour

and that should be the correct colour. As for eye shadow, any colour lighter than the colour of

your skin would be able to blend well with dark brown or black coloured eyes.

Before you buy your cosmetics in the future, do log on to www.cosmeticsinfo.org to determine

whether the ingredients are compatible with you and that they comply to FDA specifications.

Hope you enjoyed the video. Thank you.