Color and Texture in Weaving BLAD

Margo selby

150 Co n t e M p o r a r y D e s i g n s

Color and TexTure in Weaving

These patterns are created with stripes of two colors in both the warp and the weft. These two colors—although lying next to each other both horizontally and vertically—never actually weave together. Only the matching colors will weave together (for example, the black warp weaves with black weft and white warp weaves with white weft). When not weaving, the weft yarn will float over or under the second cloth. These floats either reveal or conceal the opposite color and it is this action that creates the patterns. The name “deflected double weave” comes from this concept that there are two different-colored cloths weaving, although as these are side by side the result feels like a single cloth.

Applications

This collection makes quite a heavyweight cloth, kept very soft and tactile because of the lambswool and cashmere content.

Because the fabrics are soft and cozy, they are perfect for blankets or throws, which could be paired with matching or coordinating cushions. These fabrics could also be applied to a coat or jacket. The weight and super-softness means that you won’t need to line the garment, as it should feel nice against the skin. You will, however, need to consider how the pattern may be affected by seams or panelling in a garment, and choose the garment pattern accordingly.

Development ideasOnce these designs have been woven and you have an understanding of how the patterns are created, challenge yourself technically by designing your own simple patterns and seeing if you can translate these using the deflected double cloth construction. While designing your pattern, it is important to remember that there are four blocks in the warp—two light and two dark. You must design your own pattern within this repeat. Use graph paper to help you work out whether the warp and weft floats are on the surface or the back of the fabric, in order to create the shapes within the design.

Deflected double cloth

Warp yarnssett at 16 e.p.i.

2/28 Cashmere: Apple, Baby blue, Lilac, Bubblegum, Tangerine.Delicate 2-ply cashmere yarn, designed for knitting with. This yarn is not strong enough in the warp but its delicacy adds a softness to the f inished fabric.

Notes This collection has been lightly felted—handwashed in warm water with washing detergent. While washing, the fibers are gently rubbed together until they start to matt lightly together. This helps to add texture as the different yarns will all shrink at slightly different rates. Squeeze out any excess water and lightly iron the fabric before leaving it to dry flat.

2/14 Lambswool: Black, Wine, Turquoise, Ecru, Khaki.2-ply knitting yarn that felts beautifully. It also feels soft when washed. It is not strong enough for the warp but is great for the weft—especially as the felting means you do not need to sew or tie loose warp threads.

Deflected double weave can be used to create bold geometric patterns that look like an oversized color and weave effect.

The yarns Weft yarns

Apple Baby blue Lilac Bubblegum Tangerine

2/8 Spun silkChunky 2-ply silk, one of the heavier weights of silk available to weave with. It is expensive so you may want to weave a practice warp with a viscose yarn of similar weight which will give you the same shine.

2 The cOLLecTiOns

Black Wine Turquoise ecru Khaki

1/10 Mohair Fine mohair designed to be used on a f ine-gauge knitting machine. You can use knitting yarns in the warp as long as they are strong enough.

deflected double weave - threading plan

threading plan. black mohair

silk

87654321

x

shaf

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x re

peat

fro

m b

egin

nnin

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1 architecture 2 zipper 3 tooth

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Pattern A Pattern C Pattern A

Turquoise Lambswool Ecru Lambswool Ecru Lambswool

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pattern EPattern B Pattern D Black Lambswool

Khaki Lambswool Black Lambswool

C x 2, D x 2Pattern C

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Ecru LambswoolPattern C

Turquoise Lambswool A x 4, E x 4, C x 4, E x 4.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Pattern D

Khaki Lambswool

A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2.









1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Pattern D

Khaki Lambswool

A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2.









1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Pattern D

Khaki Lambswool

A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2.









1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Pattern D

Khaki Lambswool

A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2.

deflected double weave - threading plan

threading plan. black mohair

silk

87654321

x

shaf

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x re

peat

fro

m b

egin

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Pattern D

Khaki Lambswool

A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2.









1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Pattern D

Khaki Lambswool

A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2.

pATTern • DeflecTeD DOUble clOTh 3sh

aft

num

bers

Black mohair

silk

Repeat from beginningx

1 ArchitectureA strong horizontal turquoise stripe is broken at small intervals by cream stops. The khaki threads help to knock back the black, resulting in a richly subtle cool green that offsets the punchier turquoise.

On the back of the fabric, the pattern looks the same, with the diagonals within the cream squares reversed.

Warp

Back of fabric

how the pattern repeats

Wef

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Repeat

Repeat

Repeat

2 ZipperBlack and cream yarns combine in a vertical zebra pattern to create a strong graphic print that would look completely at home in a contemporary setting.

On the back of the fabric, cream zipper edges become black.

Warp

Wef

t

Repeathow the pattern repeats

Back of fabric

pattern A

Ax2; Bx2; cx2; Dx2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

pattern b

pattern c

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

pattern D

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

x R

epea

t fr

om

begi

nnin

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x

pattern c

pattern D

cx2; Dx2

Threading plan

Turquoise lambswoolKhaki lambswoolecru lambswoolBlack lambswool

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

in this collection, the warp made is an end and end warp, meaning that two colors have been wound alternately when making the warp. in this case, the two colors are navy and white. (To save time, the two threads can be wound simultaneously and then threaded alternately when they are passed through the heddles.)

The two colors in the warp are threaded alternately (the navy threads are on the odd shafts—1, 3, 5, 7—while the white threads are on the even shafts—2, 4, 6, 8). This allows the colored threads to be woven as two separate cloths. Two blocks are created in the threading (block A on shafts 1–4 and block B on shafts 5–8).

Using different lifting plans, it is possible to weave two cloths in both blocks, exchanging the cloth on the top with the one on the bottom.

Applications

These fabrics are stretchy and decorative. They have a similar construction to those used in Margo selby’s trademark fabrics, which are applied to fashion items and furnishings. Because of their stretchy nature, the fabrics also work particularly well as garments, such as jackets, jumpers, and dresses.

Development ideas There are a multitude of designs that can be created by changing the scale and proportions of the blocks. The width of the blocks can be altered by changing the threading plan; the lengths of the blocks can be explored in the weaving. If you are using more than eight shafts you could create more than two blocks and a more complex geometric pattern. As an alternative to elastic yarn, experiment with overspun/crepe yarns. Using a wool that felts alongside the nonstretch yarns will also help to create the three-dimensional forms, but without the stretch.

elasticized double cloth

2/12 Mercerized cotton Blazer, White. Set at 30 e.p.i. A strong yarn ideal for warps, which is easy to handle and to weave. The mercerization is a process of f inishing the thread, which leaves the thread with a sheen and luster. Wind two colors together to create a striped-warp effect, known as an end and end warp.

1/14 Lambswool Pink, Turquoise. This 1-ply knitting yarn is very delicate and would not be suitable as a warp yarn, but is perfect as a weft yarn.

Create three-dimensional surfaces with geometric patterning by using a combination of elasticized and nonelasticized yarns on a block-threaded warp.

The yarns Warp yarns

speckled gray cotton/viscose

Turquoise viscose

sunray Picasso gim

p

Turquoise sea green

Lilac cashmere

Pink dusk lam

bswool

Robin cashm

ere

Lime cashm

ere

Princess pink cashm

ere

Delph cashm

ere

4 The cOLLecTiOns

Fluorescent flamingo

polyester floss

sherbet cotton

Fall sky cotton

Toxic cotton

Beige Lycra

Maroon Lycra

Berry Lycra

Leaf green Lycra

Lychen Lycra

White cottonBlazer blue cotton

Weft yarns

2/28 Cashmere Delph, Princess, Lime, Robin.This is a delicate 2-ply cashmere yarn designed for knitting, but which, when used as the weft, creates super-soft fabric.

Block Draft

8 Warp Yarn: 2/12s cotton

7

6 40 Ends per inch

5

4

3

2

1

2/12 White Cotton

x 10 x 5 2/12 Blazer Cotton

Threading Plan

1 Anderson 2 Architeque 36 5 3

Pattern B Pattern C Pattern CLeaf Lycra White Lycra Grey Wool - un-namedFlamingo Polyester Floss Lime Wool Leaf LycraAqua Wool Flamingo Polyester Floss

Grey Cotton

Pattern DPattern K Leaf Lycra

Leaf Lycra Princess CashmereFlamingo Polyester Floss Pattern D Pink Lambswool?

White LycraB x 6, K x 4, B x 6, K x 6. Lime Wool

Flamingo Polyester FlossGrey Cotton

Pattern G C x 6, D x 4. Leaf Lycra

Sherbert Cotton

Pattern AMaroon LycraGrey Wool - un-named

Pattern BDelph CashmereMaroon LycraToxic Cotton

Pattern HMaroon LycraSky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4, C x 3, A x 3, B x 8, H x 4, A x 3.



Grey Cotton






Sherbert Cotton







Grey Cotton






Sherbert Cotton







Grey Cotton






Sherbert Cotton





pattern K

Shaf

t nu

mbe

rs 2/12 White cotton

2/12 Blazer cotton

1 AndersonThis bright, f luorescent yarn adds a striking and bold effect to the fabric.

Warp

Back of fabric


Wef

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Repeat

Repeat

Repeat

2 ArchitequeIn this sample the light and dark warp ends are kept on two sides of the cloth, producing a different look on the front and back.

Warp

Wef

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Repeathow the pattern repeats

Back of fabric

pattern b

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Bx6; Kx4; Bx6; Kx6

blOcKS • elASTIcIzeD DOUble clOTh 5

x10 x3

n Warp yarns 2/12 cotton

n 40 e.p.i.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

pattern c

cx6; Dx4

pattern D

Threading plan

Leaf LycraFlamingo polyester flossAqua woolWhite LycraLime woolGray cotton

Bond 4 Tirana 5 Taut

2 1

Pattern C Pattern C Pattern C

Grey Wool - un-named Pink Lambswool? Sea Wool

Leaf Lycra Berry Lycra Beige Lycra

Pattern D Pattern G Pattern D

Leaf Lycra Sky Cotton Sherbert Cotton

Princess Cashmere Berry Lycra Robin Cashmere

Pink Lambswool? Beige Lycra

Pattern D

Pattern G Sky Cotton Pattern A

Leaf Lycra Berry Lycra Sea Wool

Sherbert Cotton Beige Lycra

Pattern E

Pattern A Turquoise Viscose Pattern B

Maroon Lycra Berry Lycra Sea Wool

Grey Wool - un-named Toxic Cotton

C x 7, G x 7, D x 7, Maroon Lycra

C x 2, E x 4, C x 2,

E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, D x 9, C x 2,

A x 2, B x 8, A x 2.

Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.


2 1








Pattern D




Pattern E





C x 2, E x 4, C x 2,

E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, D x 9, C x 2,

A x 2, B x 8, A x 2.

Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.


2 1








Pattern D




Pattern E





C x 2, E x 4, C x 2,

E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, D x 9, C x 2,

A x 2, B x 8, A x 2.

Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.


2 1








Pattern D




Pattern E





C x 2, E x 4, C x 2,

E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, D x 9, C x 2,

A x 2, B x 8, A x 2.

Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.

3 Bond

3 2

Pattern C

Grey Wool - un-named

Leaf Lycra

Pattern D

Leaf Lycra

Princess Cashmere

Pink Lambswool?

Pattern G

Leaf Lycra

Sherbert Cotton

Pattern A

Maroon Lycra


Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.

3 Bond

3 2

Pattern C


Leaf Lycra

Pattern D

Leaf Lycra

Princess Cashmere

Pink Lambswool?

Pattern G

Leaf Lycra

Sherbert Cotton

Pattern A

Maroon Lycra


Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.

3 Bond

3 2

Pattern C


Leaf Lycra

Pattern D

Leaf Lycra

Princess Cashmere

Pink Lambswool?

Pattern G

Leaf Lycra

Sherbert Cotton

Pattern A

Maroon Lycra


Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.

3 Bond

3 2

Pattern C


Leaf Lycra

Pattern D

Leaf Lycra

Princess Cashmere

Pink Lambswool?

Pattern G

Leaf Lycra

Sherbert Cotton

Pattern A

Maroon Lycra


Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.

3 Bond

3 2

Pattern C


Leaf Lycra

Pattern D

Leaf Lycra

Princess Cashmere

Pink Lambswool?

Pattern G

Leaf Lycra

Sherbert Cotton

Pattern A

Maroon Lycra


Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.

3 Bond

3 2

Pattern C


Leaf Lycra

Pattern D

Leaf Lycra

Princess Cashmere

Pink Lambswool?

Pattern G

Leaf Lycra

Sherbert Cotton

Pattern A

Maroon Lycra


Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.

4 TiranaMany colors are used in this weft. It is interesting to see the way they change when they mix with either the light or dark warp end.

Back of fabric


Repeat

Warp

Wef

t

Repeat

Repeat

3 BondThrough a combination of structure and stripe, various scales of rectangle are created.

Warp

Back of fabric

how the pattern repeats Repeat

Wef

t

6 The cOLLecTiOns

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

cx7; Gx7; Dx7; cx2; ex4; cx2; ex4; cx2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

pattern D

pattern c

cx3; Dx4; Gx4; cx3; Ax3; Bx8; hx4; Ax3

pattern A

pattern G

pattern b

pattern h

Gray woolLeaf LycraPrincess cashmerePink lambswoolsherbet cottonMaroon Lycra

pattern c

pattern G

pattern D

pattern e

Delph cashmereToxic cottonsky cottonBerry LycraTurquoise viscose


2 1








Pattern D




Pattern E





C x 2, E x 4, C x 2,

E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, D x 9, C x 2,

A x 2, B x 8, A x 2.

Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.


2 1








Pattern D




Pattern E





C x 2, E x 4, C x 2,

E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, D x 9, C x 2,

A x 2, B x 8, A x 2.

Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.


2 1








Pattern D




Pattern E





C x 2, E x 4, C x 2,

E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, D x 9, C x 2,

A x 2, B x 8, A x 2.

Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.


2 1








Pattern D




Pattern E





C x 2, E x 4, C x 2,

E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, D x 9, C x 2,

A x 2, B x 8, A x 2.

Pattern B

Delph Cashmere

Maroon Lycra

Toxic Cotton

Pattern H

Maroon Lycra

Sky Cotton

C x 3, D x 4, G x 4,

C x 3, A x 3, B x 8,

H x 4, A x 3.

6 Rockefeller

4 Yarn Key

Stable Yarn

Lycra

Pattern J

White Lycra

Aqua Wool

Pattern H

Yellow Picasso Gimp

White Lycra

Pattern I

White Lycra

Aqua Wool

Pattern G

Blue Wool

White Lycra

Berry Lycra

J x 2, H x 2, I x 2,

G x 10, D x 2.

6 Rockefeller

4 Yarn Key

Stable Yarn

Lycra

Pattern J

White Lycra

Aqua Wool

Pattern H

Yellow Picasso Gimp

White Lycra

Pattern I

White Lycra

Aqua Wool

Pattern G

Blue Wool

White Lycra

Berry Lycra

J x 2, H x 2, I x 2,

G x 10, D x 2.

6 Rockefeller

4 Yarn Key

Stable Yarn

Lycra

Pattern J

White Lycra

Aqua Wool

Pattern H

Yellow Picasso Gimp

White Lycra

Pattern I

White Lycra

Aqua Wool

Pattern G

Blue Wool

White Lycra

Berry Lycra

J x 2, H x 2, I x 2,

G x 10, D x 2.

6 Rockefeller

4 Yarn Key

Stable Yarn

Lycra

Pattern J

White Lycra

Aqua Wool

Pattern H

Yellow Picasso Gimp

White Lycra

Pattern I

White Lycra

Aqua Wool

Pattern G

Blue Wool

White Lycra

Berry Lycra

J x 2, H x 2, I x 2,

G x 10, D x 2.

6 RockefellerThe use of this gimp yarn works well with the elastic, as it is distorted into a wavy shape, adding an organic form to the surface of the cloth.

5 Taut Two rectangular windows are created using the same proportions. These then change color alternately.

Warp

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Back of fabric

Warp

Back of fabric


Wef

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Repeat

Repeat

Repeat

Repeat


blOcKS • elASTIcIzeD DOUble clOTh 7

pattern D

pattern J

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

cx2; Dx9; cx2; Ax2; Bx8: Ax2

pattern b

pattern A

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

pattern h

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Jx2; hx2; ix2; Gx10; Dx2

pattern G

pattern I

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

pattern csea woolBeige Lycrasherbet cottonRobin cashmereToxic cottonMaroon Lycra

White LycraAqua woolYellow Picasso gimpBlue woolBerry Lycra

Learn to create textiles that are rich with color and texture. Using either a simple four- or eight-shaft loom, you can discover how to mix color and yarn types in your weaving with Color and Texture in Weaving.

Even if you’re new to the loom, you’ll find complete instructions on how to get your loom set up, plus illustrated diagrams and lifting patterns. Color and Texture in Weaving also offers tons of inspiration and ideas for what to weave. More experienced weavers will also enjoy the more complex techniques, plus the directory of patterns to weave.

Get inspired to create fresh new textiles with Color and Texture in Weaving.

Author MARGo SELBy is an extremely successful weaver and textile designer who has designed products for a leading home interiors store, Habitat, and has appeared on the BBC.

Give woven fabric a

contemporary twist

Paperback8½ × 10, 144 pagesISBN 978-1-59668-372-3$26.95Available December 2011

Color and Texture in Weaving BLAD

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