Coffee Table and Ottoman

8/3/2019 Coffee Table and Ottoman

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DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD MAGAZINE http://www.woodmagazine.com

Page 1 of 13

In a seperate downloadable plan, we intro-duced this impressive Arts-and-CraftsCollection with the Morris-style chair shownbottom right . Here, we follow suit with thishandsome Coffee Table and Ottoman.

CoffeeTable andOttoman

Arts-and-CraftsCollection

#DP-00084


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H

TENON DETAIL

2""

"

4"

3"

" tenon 3" wide x 2" long

" chamfers

"

""

I

G

C

B

A

H

22"

46"

2"

2"

2 x 2" notchesin all four corners

" chamfer along top edges

G

#8 x 1" F.H.wood screws

" slot " long

" hole

#8 x 1" R.H. wood screws

#8 flat washer

" hole,countersunk

7 64" pilot hole" deep 22"

18"

2"

41"" chamfers

H


A

x 2" mortisescut completelythrough leg

x 3" mortise cutcompletely through leg


COFFEE TABLEEXPLODED VIEW

B

D

D

E

E

F

F

D

F

FD E

B

B

1"

C

17"


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C O F F E E T A B L E C U T T I N G D I A G R A M

*

* P l a n e o r r e s a w t o t h e

t h i c k n e s s l i s t e d i n

t h e B i l l o f M a t e r i a l s .

I

I

I

I

1 x

7 x 9 6 " O a k

x 9 x 9 6 " O a k

x 7 x 9 6 " O a k

H

A

A

G

H B

B

x 3 x 7 2 " O a k

* D

E *

F * a n d

C

1 x

7 x 9 6 " O a k

A

* D

P a r

t

C o f f e e

T a b

l e

B i l l o

f M a t e r

i a l s

M a t l . Q t y .

T

W

L

F i n i s h e d

S i z e

A * l e g s

2 "

2 "

1 8 "

L O

4

B r a i l s

"

2 "

2 3 "

O

4

C c t r

. s l a t s

"

3 "

1 0 "

O

2

D s i d e s l a t s

"

1 "

1 0 "

O

8

E * s p a c e r s

"

"

1 "

O 1 6

F * s p a c e r s

"

"

2 "

O

8

G c l e a t s

"

"

1 7 " O

2

H s t r e t c h e r s

"

4 "

4 6 " O

2

I * t a b l e t o p

1 " 2 2 "

4 6 " E O 1

* C u t p a r t s m a r k e d w i t h a n * o v e r s i z e

. T r i m t o f i n -

i s h e d s i z e a c c o r d i n g t o t h e h o w - t o i n s t r u c t i o n s .

M a t e r i a l s K e y : L O l a

m i n a t e d o a k ; O o a k ;

E O e

d g e - j o i n e d o a k

.

S u p p l i e s : 6 # 8 1 " f l a t h e a d w o o d s c r e w s

,

6 # 8 1 " r o u n d h e a d w o o d s c r e w s w i t h f l a t

w a s h e r s , s t a i n , c l e a r f i n i s h

.


5/15

1"

2"

2"

10"

""

"

"

"

3"

4"


18"

x 2" mortisescut completelythrough leg

" chamfers along topand bottom ends of leg

2" 2"

COFFEETABLE LEG(4 needed)

Legs are laminatedfrom three "-thick pieces.

A

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Begin by laminating andmachining the legs Note: For an authentic look,choose straight grain or rift-cut

stock, preferably white oak, for all the pieces of this project.1 To form the 2"-square legs (A),cut 12 pieces of " stock to 2 by

19". (Using thesedimensions, thepieces are oversized" in width and 1"in length so you cantrim flush the edgesand ends of the legs later.) See theLeg drawing at right for reference.2 Spread an even coat of glue onthe mating surfaces of the threepieces making up each leg. With the edges and ends flush, glue andclamp the pieces face-to-face toform the four legs.3 Cut or plane an equal amount off both edges of each leg for a 2"finished width. Then, trim both ends of each leg for an 18" finishedlength.4 Lay out the mortises on the out-

side surface of each leg wheredimensioned. (To ensure any pos-sible chip-out would be on theinside surface and covered by therail and stretcher tenon shoulders,

we marked the mortisess on theoutside surfaces. We also drilledfrom the outside surface so the bitcame through on the inside.)5 Attach a wood top and fence to

your drill-press table. Using a "brad-point bit, drill holes inside themarked mortises. Square-up themortises with a chisel. You couldalso form the mortises with a mor-tiser.6 Rout a " chamfer along the topand bottom end of each leg.

Machine and assemblethe end frames1 Cut the upper and lower rails (B)to the sizes listed in the Bill of Materials from " stock.2 Fit your tablesaw with a " dadoblade, and cut a " groove "deep, centered along one edge of each rail. See the End Frame draw-

ing and accompanying detail for reference.3 Switch to a wider dado blade on

your tablesaw. Then, attach a long wooden extension to your table-saws miter gauge, and square theextension to the blade. Using astop for consistency, cut rabbets to

form tenons on the ends of therails (B ). (We test-cut scrap stock first to ensure a tight fit of thetenons into the leg mortises.) Seethe Tenon detail accompanyingthe End Frame drawing for dimen-sions.4 Carefully sand or file the cham-fers on both ends of the through tenons on the rails (B), where

shown on the Tenon detail. If youhave a small laminate-trim router,use a chamfer bit in it to machinethe tenon ends.5 Cut the center slats (C) and nar-rower side slats (D) to size. Usingthe Parts View on Page 8 , transfer the cutout location to each center

slat. Drill a blade start hole, andscrollsaw the openings to shape.6 To form the spacers (E, F) cut apiece of stock to " thick by "

wide by 48" long. Then, crosscutthe spacers (E, F) to length fromthis strip.7 To assemble the end frames,start by finding the center (fromend-to-end) of each rail, and mark a


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3"

B

"

" "

"

2"

"

2"

2"

TENONDETAIL

" groove " deep,centered on bottom edge

2"

2"

18"

23"

" groove " deep,centered on top edge

2"

1" x 2"-wide tenon 2" long

10"

1"

"

x 2"-wide tenon2" long

"

COFFEE TABLEEND FRAME

B

FEE

F

D

D

E

F

E

F

B" chamfers along end of tenon

C


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Page 6 of 13

centerline across the grain.Starting with the center slat (C)centered over the centerline onthe bottom rail (B) and workingfrom the center out, add (no glue)the spacers (E, F) and the slats (D).

Add the top rail (B). Trim the spac-ers if necessary. Then, fit (again,

no glue) the assembly into the legmortises to check the joinery.8 Sand the legs and end framepieces. Next, glue and clamp thetwo frames together, checking for square as shown in Photo A.

Add the cleats andstretchers next1 Cut the cleats (G) to size.2 Mark the locations, and machinea pair of screw expansion slots oneach cleat where dimensioned onthe Parts View drawing. Mark thecenterpoints, and drill counter-sunk holes through each cleat.Screw the cleats to the inside faceof each top rail (B), keeping thetop edge of the cleats flush with the top edge of the rails. Thereshould be a " gap between theends of the cleat and the legs, so

you wont see the cleat when thetabletop is attached later. See theNotch detail on the Parts View for

reference.3 Cut the stretchers (H) to size.Cut tenons on the ends of thestretchers to fit snug inside themortises in the legs. See the Tenondetail accompanying the Exploded

View drawing for reference. Next,cut or rout " chamfers on theends of the tenons.4 Glue and clamp the stretchersbetween the end frames, keepingthe frames square to the stretch-ers.

Edge-join pieces for asolid-stock top1 Cut four pieces of 1" stock to5" wide by 47" long. Joint theedges of the four boards so thateach measures 5" wide.

Note: Because of the weight and size of the tabletop, we found it more manageable to bandsaw

A

After checking the fit of all the pieces, glue and clamp the end frame,checking for square.

B

Notice the "-thick spacers between the end-frame legs and tabletop.We used the spacers to center the top on the base when screwing theassemblies together.


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STEP 2

Edge-join half of thetable. Repeat thisfor the other table half.

Trim ends to finishedlength (46") after these two

boards have been glued together.

2"

2"

2"

41"Cut notches onoutside corners.

46"

20"

20"

Marked centerlineMark notch cutlines.

1 x 5 x *47" boards dry-clamped together*Boards initially are cut 1" longer before edge-joining.

2"

STEP 1

FORMING THE TABLETOP

41"

STEP 3

Use bar clamps tokeep ends of tablehalves flush across ends.

Edge-join tablehalves together.

Place clamp boardson both sides so clampsdo not dent the edges ofthe tabletop.

I

5"

I

5"

I

46"

the notches before edge-joining the boards.2 Mark a centerline across two of the boards. Measuring from thecenter out (you need to do this

because the boards are cut longat this point), mark the loca-

tions of the notches on one

of the boards. Now, asshown in Step 1 of thethree-step drawing atletf, clamp two of theboards together, align-ing the centerlines.Use a framing square

to transfer the notch locationsonto the second board. Removethe clamps, and bandsaw thenotches in each board to shape.3 Edge-join one notched boardagainst a second unnotched board,keeping the surfaces flush. SeeStep 2 of the drawing for refer-ence. Repeat for the remainingtwo boards4 Remove the clamps and scrapeoff the excess glue. Crosscut theends of both table halves for a 46"long finished length, so that thenotches measure 2" long. Now,being careful to keep the ends andnotches aligned as shown in Step 3of the drawing, glue and clamp thetwo tabletop halves together,again checking to see that the sur-faces are flush. Later remove theclamps, scrape off the excess glue,and sand the tabletop smooth.5 Rout a " chamfer along the top

of the tabletop (I). On the insidecorners of the notches, youll

need to use a sharp chisel tosquare-up the chamfer.


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top expands and contracts with seasonal humidity changes.3 Stain as desired. (We usedMinwax Provincial #211, a good

choice for imitating that time peri-od.) Or, see our Arts-and-Craftsfumeless finish article in theNovember 1998 issue of WOODstarting on page 74 . Apply the fin-ish. (We brushed on several coatsof satin polyurethane.)

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Page 8 of 13

Finish-sand, stain, andclear-coat the table1 Finish-sand the table base andtabletop. (We sanded with 100-,150-, and finally 220-grit sandpa-

per, using a bright light, in our case a halogen, at a low angle tocheck the surfaces for sandingmarks. Another method we use tocheck for sanding marks is tolighlty damped the surface with lacquer or paint thinner, then takea close look at it.)2 Place a blanket on your work-bench top, and place the tabletop

(I) upside down on the blanket.Center the base (also upsidedown) on the tabletop, keepingthe gaps around the notches even.

Using the holes and slots in the legcleats as guides, drill pilot holesinto the bottom side of the table-top, and screw the assembliestogether as, shown in Photo B .Center the screws in the slots,tighten them, then back them off about half a revolution. You wantthe screws to be able to move back and forth in the slots as the table-

C

17"

22"

2"

2"

2"

46"

41"2" 2"

5"

5" 2 x 2" notches

" chamfer along top edge

TOP VIEW

COFFEE TABLEPARTS VIEW

10" Coffee table

3"

"

"

" chamfers

Square insideof routed cornerwith a chisel.

NOTCH DETAIL

I

A

ITABLETOP

8"

1""

1""

"

" hole

"

"

8" 7"

"

"17"

"

" slot " long

" holes, countersunk

TOP VIEW

SIDE VIEW

G

5" Ottoman1"

"

"

1"

CENTER SLATCOFFEE TABLE AND

OTTOMAN(2 needed each)

CLEATS(2 needed)

R="


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Using a construction procedure like

that of the coffee table, build theottoman shown here. See the Parts View drawing on Page 8 for part C.See the Cushion Parts View on Page13 for the material layout for thecushion. See the Ottoman Bill of Materials below for part sizes.

Written by Marlen KemmetProject Design: Charles I. HedlundIllustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna JohnsonPhotography: Scott Little, HetheringtonGraphic Design: Jamie DowningCopyright Meredith Corporation 1999

The purchase of these plans doesnot transfer any copyright or otherownership interest in the plans, thedesign, or the finished project to thebuyer. Buyer may neither reproducethe plans for sale nor offer for saleany copies of the finished project.

Part

OttomanBill of Materials

M a

t l .

Q t y

.

T W L

Finished Size

A* legs 2" 2" 12" LO 4

B rails " 2" 18" O 4

C ctr. slats " 3" 5" O 2

D side slats " 1" 5" O 4

E* spacers " " 1" O 8

F* spacers " " 2" O 8

G stretchers " 4" 24" O 2

H cleats " " 19" O 2

I slats " 1" 14" O 8

*Cut parts marked with an * oversize. Trim to fin-ished size according to the how-to instructions.

Materials Key: LOlaminated oak; Ooak.

Supplies: 20#8 1" flathead brass wood screws,6#8 1" flathead wood screws, stain, finish.


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Page 10 of 13

x 7 x 96" Oak

x 5 x 96" Oak

G

A A A

G

OTTOMAN CUTTING DIAGRAM

B

x 3 x 96" Oak*Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Bill of Materials.

I* I* E* F*and

I*I*D*

* C

HH

B

""

"

"

2"

"

2"

2"

TENONDETAIL

" chamfers along end of tenon

" groove " deep,

centered on bottom edge

" tenon2" wide x 2" long

2"

2"

13"

1"

2"

" groove " deep,centered on top edge

18"

1"

3"

5"

D

OTTOMANEND FRAME

"

"

F

E

D

C

F

FE

F

B

B


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Page 11 of 13

A

2"

"

5"

2"

""

"

"

"

3"

3"

2" 2"

12"

" chamfer along topand bottom ends of leg

x 3" mortisecut completelythrough leg

x 2" mortises

cut completelythrough leg

Legs are laminatedfrom three "-thickpieces.

OTTOMANLEG

(4 needed)

Nylon-backed vinyl

#4 steel zipper

Piping

" batting(we used Dacron)

Buff edges.

OTTOMAN CUSHION

(VIEW FROM BOTTOM)

Cushion-eze Bondtek #5 or whatmay be available in your area

(to keep batting from stickingto vinyl or fabric)

5" high-density (we used highresiliently 23 pound (HR23) foam)

x 10 x 16" plywood(cushion held in placewith screws in ottoman)


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Page 12 of 13

G

TENON

DETAIL

2""

"

4"

3"

" tenon 3" wide x 2" long" chamfers

"

""

G

C

B

A

H

A

B

B

#8 x 1" F.H. brass wood screw

" shank hole, countersunk

14"

7 64" pilot holes" deep1"

" chamfers

G

#8 x 1" F.H.wood screw




x 2" mortises cutcompletely through leg

D

17"

12"

F

EE

F

B

2"

2"

24"

19"

" chamfer

OTTOMANEXPLODED VIEW

13"

D

C

EF

F

H

A

A

"

1"

I

I

#8 x 1" F.H. brass wood screws(to attach cushion in place)

1"

I

" shank hole,countersunk on bottom


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Page 13 of 13

Note: Checking with upholsterersaround the country, we learnedthat the supplies and the thicknesso f ma t e r i a l s v a ry g rea t l y.We recommend providing ourdrawings and your chair to yourupholsterer, and having them makethe cushion to fit your chair.

FULL-SIZEHALF PATTERN

CUSHIONPARTS VIEW

21"

15"

5" high-density foam

Align patternon centerlines.

1"

40"

Material for piping(2 needed)

4" 5" 5"

39"

" seamallowance

4"5" 5"

21"

Centerlines

CUSHIONPATTERN

20"

#4 steel zipper

Centerline " seamallowance

16"

R=1"

END PATTERN(2 needed)

5"

" seam allowance

See full-size halfpattern below.

(Flop full-size half pattern for marking adjoining pattern.)

1

SCALE

To ensure full-sized patterns are corresize, your printer should be set to priat 100% (not fit to page). Measure sized patterns to verify size.


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