Climberism Magazine Issue #16

ON LOCATION

ACADIA

SepTember 2013 | ISSue #16 THe NOrTHeAST CLImbING mAGAZINe

THe beST (uN)KepT SeCreT IN THe NOrTHeAST

8 eDITOr’S NOTe // What happened to sharing? by David Crothers

10 LOCAL LeGeND // Jon Tierney by brian Fencil

14 NOrTHeAST NeWSWIre // Your local news condensed

18 ACADIA NATIONAL pArK // A dirtbag’s guide by Our Locals

24 FOCuSeD // Image Gallery

26 OFF rOuTe // Inaugural Dispatch

SEPTEMBER | 2013

pitch 2 of Just for Goobs (5.7+), looking up at the slabs on marshfield Ledge, Vt. // DAVID CROTHERS

Contents

4 climberism | MAGAZINE

FURNACE INDUSTRIESDRYICETOOLS.com

Train for Ice, Anytime.DRY ICE TOOLS™

Untitled-1 1 8/29/13 12:25 PM

ON THE COVER: Taylor Vanroekel fends of the infamous Rock Lobster (5.9) on the coast of Acadia National park.// DAVID CROTHERS

EdiTOR David Crothers

AssisTANT EdiTOR Taylor Vanroekel

ART diRECTOR mike Lorenz

iNTERNs brian Fencil

AdVERTisE [email protected]

CONTRibuTE [email protected]

subsCRibE climberism.com/subscribe

HEAdquARTERs 60 main St. Jeffersonville, VT

CONTACT us [email protected]

most of the activities depicted in this magazine carry significant amounts of risk with the potential for serious injury or death. We do not recommend you try or participate in any of the activities depicted within this publication. Seek professional guidance or help from someone of expertise. You assume all risks associated with your decision.

Copyright Climberism. All rights reserved. No material in this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent.

Contributors

before he had spent a rain-soaked spring in Vermont, Taylor VanRoekel lovingly considered New England to be some sort of Shangri-La. Wide-eyed and hopeful, he moved to the Green Mountains in the summer of ’12 with a car full of skis and shelves. Three jobs and four Craigslist rentals later, he can still be found hoofing around north of I-89 with his friends who sometimes call him to go rock climbing.

Ryan stefiuk is a climbing guide residing in Northampton, Massachusetts. The consumate tinkerer and gearhead, Ryan can be found tweak-ing websites, Android devices, and climbing gear in his spare time. He is the owner of Valley Vertical Adventures and blogs regularly at bigfootmountainguides.com

7climberism | MAGAZINE

Alpinist managing editor Gwen Cameron and I took a long weekend and headed to the Gunks in April. I hadn’t rock climbed since the fall so I don’t know why I thought hopping on Bonnie’s Roof (5.9) was a good way to kickoff the season. We made it up, but it wasn’t pretty. I don’t have any excuses other than I spent more time on ice than I did pulling plastic over the winter. but bonnie prudden, the climb’s namesake and first ascentionist surely made it look better. In 1952, after Hans Kraus backed off the first pitch, she launched up the climb and it’s been a classic ever since.[photo] David Crothers


EdiTOR’s NOTE // WhaT haPPENED TO ShaRING?

sTANdiNG AT THE bAsE OF OLD TOWN (5.7), A classic route on the precipice in Acadia National park, I tried striking up a conversation with a snowy-haired climber (we’ll call him Ned) that had just rapped off Connecticut Crack (5.11a).

“Are you from around here?” I asked. “Nice cliff you’ve got.”

“Yeah, I am what you call a local,” He replied looking away from me. “We used to try and keep this place a secret.”

“I guess that’s hard to do with all the guides around here, huh?” I said. “And all the weekend warriors driving 10 hours from the cities to climb.”

Acadia is no secret and hasn’t been for some time. And it wasn’t like we were crowding him; in fact we were the only two parties at the cliff with a several routes between us.

When the Vermont climbing guidebook was printed and finally avail-able to the public, the general consensus was that crowds would flood the state’s secret areas and snag the rest of the unestablished routes. Yes, we have seen a few more climbers at bolton, Vt., but in general, the people who were establishing routes there are still the only ones establishing routes, and I honestly haven’t noticed any more people at my favorite climbing areas.

The conversation is the same one being had in a lot of outdoor sports communities, but more commonly discussed in mountain biking, skiing and even fishing circles. God forbid you’d have to share the view, the powder, or the trails with a fellow skier, rider, climber, or someone else psyched to be outside. And yes, there are plenty of places to do all of these things without introducing people to your secret outdoorsy stash. but my question is, why not let everyone enjoy the work you put into making something great?

When I started climbing, I had no intentions of putting up routes or sandbagging them or stealing someone else’s “project.” I started climbing because I liked it, and if that got me up a new route from time to time, well, then, good for me.

As a matter of fact, I did climb a few new routes in Acadia. Just don’t tell Ned.... —David Crothers

[photo] Alden pellett

BEERS ON USStop by our office on main Street in Jeffersonville, Vermont and score a beer. All you have to do is visit climberism.com/freebeer, subscribe—if you haven’t already—print out the free beer coupon, and bring it in.


sharing drinks, music and stories during the 2011 boulderfest // DAVID CROTHERS

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WHAT’s yOuR bACkGROuNd, JON? WHERE ARE yOu FROm?I grew up in Claremont, Nh., and went to col-lege in Colorado, but I’ve been in maine pretty much since the early 1980s.

WHAT kiCkEd OFF yOuR CLimbiNG CAREER? I began climbing in middle school. I played with ropes in trees and occasionally went to local crags with my two mentors Stan and bob, both of whom used to climb in the Gunks quite a lot before moving to Claremont. They had a great outdoor program at Stevens High School, and they did trips too. In high school my parents would take me to climbing areas

we got a chance to talk to Jon Tierney, IFMGA certified guide and founder of Acadia Mountain Guides to find out how he has

successfully turned climbing into a lifelong career. The sport has brought Tierney all over the U.S. and the world, and he’s climbed too many routes and at too many world-class destinations to list. But his lasting impact has come to define guiding in the Northeast.

[photos] Jon Tierney Collection


like marlow profile, Norwich, pickledish, and once in awhile we would go to Cannon where my friend Ken and I would climb.

WHERE HAs CLimbiNG TAkEN yOu AROuNd THE WORLd? Climbing has taken me to a lot of great areas, certainly many of the best u.S. areas. I spent several summers in rocky mountain National park, where I lived near Lumpy ridge—it is one of my favorite areas. I spent a season in the Tetons as well. red rocks and Joshua Tree have seen a lot of me too. I’ve climbed in Thailand, Japan, China, France, Switzerland, Canada and many places in South America, as well. I’ve spent a little time in the Cascades, Yosemite and Alaska over the years, but I haven’t made it to the red yet.

WHAT is yOuR mOsT NOTAbLE ‘FiRsT’ iN CLimbiNG? Climbing Lakeview (5.6) on Cannon Cliff was pretty huge for my age at the time, but my first time on a big cliff was climbing in the Tetons in high school. making first ascents in western China around 2001 comes to mind as well.

WHEN did yOu sTART GETTiNG AmGA CERTiFiCATiONs? I did my rock Guide I in 1993 and my II in 1997. Then I did my Alpine in 1997 and Ski mountaineering in 2006.

WHAT WAs THE pROCEss LikE?For me it spanned many years because I was fitting it in around a busy schedule run-ning the outdoor program at the university of maine. We had a pretty unique program there that was cutting edge and in order to lead it, I felt a need to be at the top of my game. We helped produce many certi-fied guides who I mentored, including peter Doucette (IFmGA), Silas rossi (IFmGA) and many others. , The technical learning curve was steep back in the day because so many of the techniques were new to us. Now with the infomation age, and the Single pitch Instructor programs, much more info gets out to the climbing community.

The process was great. I was fortunate to learn from those I would consider the “masters of the trade.” beyond the skills, I really enjoyed the discussions about the evolving profession, the camaraderie of the guides, etc.

In hindsight, having spent a big chunk of my life trying to develop climbing instruc-tor programs, I am not sure it has been for the better. Now I am continually find-ing “certified” individuals who just don’t represent what I believe it should be about both on a technical and professional level. That is one of the primary reasons I chose to help start the pCIA (professional Climb-ing Instructors Association), to set a good bar for entry level instructors. but I am not convinced we have succeeded there either.

WHy did yOu GO ON TO GET yOuR iFmGA?I have many reasons. After getting my rock guide certificate, I realized I had done a lot of alpine climbing and guiding so getting the certification seemed like a must-do. Then once I had two of them, I thought ‘why not just finish?’ I also wanted to guide in europe, peru and Canada—all IFmGA countries. I had always felt that American guides should not guide in IFmGA coun-tries unless they were IFmGA guides. many do, but that just wasn’t the right thing to do. That said, I lost a lot of good guiding

opportunities during my prime, because I wan’t certified. And as an outdoor educa-tor, I wanted to be a role model to others. Outdoor educators should strive to be good enough at what they do so that they can put themselves in front of their peers for assessment and further learning.

WHEN did yOu sTART ACAdiA mOuNTAiN GuidEs? AmG was conceived of by myself, Chris Damboise and Liz Dunn back in 1993. before opening shop all of us had completed the AmGA basic and advanced rock guides courses, and I had taken my rock exam, so we set the bar pretty high for a small school in the early 1990s. I have tried to maintain that level of professionalism since then, and have firmly supported the concept of permitting guides to work only in terrain for which they have experience, training and peer review/examination. We formally opened a storefront in 1994.

yOu HAVE A LOT OF CLimbiNG ExpERiENCE AROuNd THE WORLd, buT WHAT kEEps yOu iN mAiNE? There is just so much fun to be had right in your own back yard. I have dozens of lines just in Clifton and at the cliffs in Northern maine that beg to be climbed. And then there is New Hampshire, Quebec, etc. And realistically, the fact that I have two retail storefronts and the climbing school makes it hard to just pack up and leave.

HOW’s THE WiNTER CLimbiNG iN mAiNE?Winter is really good up here. Katahdin is truly the “beast of the east”, and I would suggest that winter climbing on Katah-din can rival just about any other place. The ice is scattered, but there are some good lines to be had across the state.

WHAT’s yOuR FAVORiTE NORTHEAsT CLimb?Tough choice between The Armadillo (5.8) on Katahdin and Whitney-Gilman (5.7) on Cannon Cliff. And you can’t ig-nore the quality of routes on the South Wall of Champlain mountain in Acadia.

JON TiERNEy // lOCal lEGEND

By BRIaN FENCIl


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7. Jetboil Sol StoveA watched pot might not boil, but a watched Sol does in about two minutes. The Sol turns cold water to volcanic lava before you can pull your coffee from your bag. purchase the coffee press separately ($14.95), pour in your coffee grounds, give it a stir and viola, cow-boy coffee. $119.95 jetboil.com

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By BRIaN FENCIl

IN THE


New Jersey College Student Dies after 30-foot Fall Corey Stewart from Nj. died from traumatic head injuries after falling 30 feet while climbing Batman Pinnacle in Estes Park, Co. Witnesses attempted to revive Stewart with CPR, but were unsuccessful. The cause of the accident is still unclear. Our condolences are with his friends and family.

Lost in North America, Ep. 1, Rumney, Nh The first episode of Lost in North America, a series following Josh larson and Vince Schaefer on a 100-day climbing tour of North america, kicked off in Rumney, Nh., with a new problem, The Baptism (V10/V11), and with several steep Rumney classics.

Bryce Viola, Cosa Nostra V12 Viola completed Cosa Nostra (V12), originally worked on by Josh lowell and John Kuphal in Westchester, Ny. lowell and Kuphal figured out the top and bottom sequences of this demanding problem several years ago but did not link the long line together. Check the video out on the Climberism website.

Fifth V13 for ashima Shiraishi ashima Shiraishi, age 12, completed the second female ascent of Automator (V13). angie Payne previously climbed the route in 2010, making her the first american woman to climb the grade. This is Shiraishi’s fifth V13, and she completed it after only two sessions. Damn.

nORTHEAST nEWSWIRE // SANDbAGS, DIrTbAGS AND FAST DeSCeNTS


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accidents in acadia In april, a climber took a 20-foot ground fall, sustaining severe injuries. Then, in June, a rope broke over a sharp edge, and a guide and client fell 25 feet, landing on another climber. The guide was unharmed, one client broke an elbow and another injured a hip. later in the summer, a guide was lowered off the end of his rope falling 40 feet and sustaining head injuries.

No Clipping Bolts on Dolt and Jolt Rumney Climbers association (RCa) has closed the two routes because of serious rock fall danger. RCa has placed warning signs near the routes, padlocked the first bolt of Jolt and removed Dolt’s first bolt. It is unclear if or when the two routes will be opened again.

Climber Falls into Vermot Cave In august, an unroped climber fell 15 feet to the bottom of the Weybridge Caves in Weybridge, Vt. Middlebury Technical Rescue and Vermont Cave Rescue Team spent 14 hours getting to the climber. The teams had to cut a path in the rock in order to reach the trapped climber. he sustained only an ankle fracture.

nORTHEAST nEWSWIRE // SANDbAGS, DIrTbAGS AND FAST DeSCeNTS


&BimmersBiners

BAR HARBOR IS A PLACE OF CONTRAST. There are no McDonald’s; not many gas stations, ei-ther. Here, a mixture of wealthy Massholes, loaded Rhode Islanders and five-dollar t-shirt shops constitute this kitschy, yet refined, fish-ing-turned-trap-town on Maine’s Desert Island. Walking towards downtown is a lesson in class; the expensive lobster and brews are to be found closer to the heart of town; the cheaper options closer to the outskirts. But just outside of it all sits the East’s finest sampling of clean granite rock climbing.

What we were doing was probably illegal, no doubt. Dave steered the truck up to the curb on Ledgelawn Ave, bar Harbor, maine and we proceeded to unpack and organize the contents of the camper into the street to make it hospitable for the night. The camper was small, and fit precariously into the bed of Dave’s Ford ranger. Giant thick nylon straps barely kept the camper secured to the bed. When we took corners, passersby looked nervous.

After organizing gear, we loaded into the camper for the night, listening to Ledglawn’s residents walk their dogs past our shack on wheels. Five minutes into our stay in the camper, the whole thing reeked. Two dudes plus one dog and lots of climbing gear made for one nasty potpourri. We chased the scent with patron, and cheersed to dirtbaggery at it’s finest.

At 5 a.m., a harsh phone alarm rang next to my head. It was the earliest either of us had wo-ken up in a long time. Finley, Dave’s mutt, stood up from his nest of sleeping bags on the loft-ed camper bed next to his owner. They looked comfy; I felt like a prisoner. I had spent the night curled up on what Dave told me was a pull out couch, shifting positions hourly to avoid a broken back. And somehow, despite the early alarm, we were already late. Firing up the truck, we wobbled our way downtown to the offices of Acadia mountain Guides.

ACADIA: mAINe’S beST (uN)KepT SeCreCT

Sunrise near Otter Cliffs. [photo] David Crothers

“He’s late,” Dave said, hunching down, looking across my lap through the window at the storefront as we idled the truck outside to charge cell phones and camera equipment from the cig lighter. my stom-ach was erupting. breakfast had consisted of three ibuprofen, a handrolled and a squashed Clif bar I’d found wedged between the passenger seat and the center console. When I asked Dave to pull into a gas station for food, he said no.

A black Imprezza rolled up to the storefront. “Five bucks that’s him,” I said out of the side of my mouth. Sure enough, Alex, our guide for the day kicked open the driver side of his Subaru and unlocked the doors to the store.

before too long, we were cruising seaside to Otter Cliffs. The beauty of the place, aside from the ob-vious, was the brevity of the approach. Five min-utes after arriving at the trailhead, Dave and I were standing atop the buttressed rock of the Otter Cliffs

crag, squinting into the glitter of the ocean. The soft morning light faded quickly as Alex whipped up an anchor. I had never been guided before, but conclud-ed it was something I could get used to.

Dave and I could see our first climb from our posi-tion further down the cliff. Lobster Claw (5.9) basked in the light, waves nearly lapping the bottom of the face. We did handstands and jigs on the clifftop in the dying dawn. Alex finished setting up the anchor and strolled over to where Dave and I stood, peering down at the route. “Now,” Alex says, “This is Lobster Claw. It’s a 5.9. I know you guys probably climb much harder,” Alex trails off as Dave and I burst in chuck-les.

THE WORkERs HERE COmE ANd GO, and often define themselves by the seasons in which they blow town, head for the mountains, or don’t. “I’m a year-rounder,” our bartender tells us as he pours two stiff bloody marys at the Dog and pony on the last day of

mrs. Godshall on pitch 2 of Chlitlin Corner (5.10c) at the precipice [photo] Daniel Godshall


Bimmers and Biners /////////

our trip. The night before, we dined at the Downtown Lobster pound, which, as one would imagine given its cliché name, was pretty cheap. Our greeter was an attractive russian girl, indicative of bar Harbor’s seasonal workforce. As Dave and I pounded $2.25 pbr pounders, we stole glances at the snappily dressed flatlanders. Our lobster rolls came complete with blueberry pie. We were content.

Although Acadia National park is beautiful, it isn’t without the ancillary complications that come with modern day parks. T-shirt shops abut t-shirt shops, and as we walked toward the waterfront, we passed signs promising bus tours complete with 15-minute stops in the park. For most visitors, the t-shirts far outweigh the park itself.

“Do you think people think we’re gay?” Dave asks, dog leash in hand.

“We have Vermont plates, we’re wearing the same shorts, and we have a dog with us, so, probably,” I

respond. The whirl of plastic reality swirled around us as we kicked rocks down main Street.

AFTER WE GOT OFF OTTER CLiFFs, we headed for The precipice, following Alex’s zippy Imprezza closely along the winding blacktop. We came past an opening in the woods to our right, through which we got our first glimpse of the body of Acadia rock climbs. The truck rumbled to a halt, roadside. each of our stops required some amount of requisite un-loading and organization. Finally ready, we hoofed it up the characteristically short approach.

Alex gave us the grand tour of a handful of classics, tracing lines with his pointer finger as we walked underneath them. They’re lightly blushed granite routes, characterized by divinely choreographed movements that wander up rounded flakes and split-ter corner systems.

Alex, Dave and I swapped belay duties before mak-ing our way back south down the cliff line to climb,

Alex Scuterud hauling Taylor Vanroekel up In the Groove (5.5) at Otter Cliffs[photo] David Crothers


Old Town (5.7), reminiscent of the crown-jewel third pitch of marshfield Corners at marshfield Ledge, Vt. I watched Dave pull the awkward first moves, throw in a small nut and continue upwards into the clean open-book, before topping out on a ledge. Feet to the dirt, Dave turned around, grinning.

iN THE mORNiNG, we drove to echo Lake in search of some freshwater in which to clean our foul bod-ies before getting in the camper for our seven-hour sojourn back west. Dave parked the camper next to a beamer and a nice looking Volvo, both with out-of-state plates. The water was chilly, but the lake was still warmer than the ocean, and finding an actual shower was out of the question.

After cleaning up, we b-lined back to bar Harbor, where we parked next to a tennis court in a neigh-borhood and made coffee. An elderly couple gri-maced in our direction as I blew a bugler into the air.

We sipped coffee and watched the two bat a tennis ball back and forth. “Well,” Dave sighs. “Time to hit

the road.” We loaded up, cracked road sodas and set-tled in. Seven hours later, we hit the Vermont border, and the t-shirt shops and transplants were far, far in our rearview. exchanging daps, we parted ways. “until next time,” Dave said, “until next time.”

A climber enjoys the sharp granite at monument Cove.[photo] Nick V.

Greg Shyloski making a scary clip after the crux on The FishScale (5.12d). [photo] Dave Sharratt


DIRTBAG TIPSCheap beer: Bring your own or stop by the Downtown lobster Pound for $2.25 pounders of PBR. Dog and Pony Tavern is a great local’s pub for cheap pints and food too.

Grub: Everything in Bar harbor is muy carro, but if you’re not after lobster, there is a hannaford grocery store down-town so you can stock up on Ramen noodles.

Lodging: We slept in the street, but for $20 you can crash at Blackwood Campground and use their pay-for showers. If you come with money in your wallet, you’ve got plenty of options.

Otter Cliff Classics: Rock Lobster (5.9), Yellow Wall (5.8), Guillotine (5.10a/b), Brochure Crack (5.9+), A Dare by the Sea (5.10c), Drunken Sailor (5.10b).

precipice Classics: Old Town (5.7), Return Forever (5.9), Chlitlin Corner (5.7), Emmigrant Crack (5.10b), Birch Ade (5.9), Gunklandia (5.7), Fear of Flying (5.10), Connecticut Crack (5.11a), Space Between (5.11 b/c), Pipe Dream (5.12b).

What we missed: Great head and South Wall come highly recommended.

Bimmers and Biners /////////

David Crothers on Old Town (5.7) at the precipice. [photo] Taylor Vanroekel.


FOCUSED

pHOTO // JOHN GAssEL alissa Doherty moves past the

infamous triangle on Underdog (5.10a).Rumney, New hampshire


pHOTO // dAVid CROTHERsJon Straza, Peter Kamitses and Chris Duca

make the short approach to the Tsunami Wall in the adirondacks.


“yOu’RE dOiNG WHAT?” my mOm Asks iNCREduLOusLy.

“I’m moving into my truck for a couple years, mom,” I say, repeat-ing myself.

“Don’t worry,” I jokingly add, “I’ll have my dog to keep me warm during the winter.”

I’ll be turning 30 next year, and while most of my friends are get-ting married, having kids and buying homes, I’m moving into my truck camper. my mom keeps asking me when I am going to settle down. “I never know where you’re going to be,” she says. “One minute you’re in Vermont, the next you’re in Colorado, utah, Co-lombia or somewhere else.” She wants grandkids, I want freedom.

When you live out of a camper, you don’t have to work to pay someone else’s mortgage. I own the truck and the camper so all the dinero that would go to paying rent now goes to new toys. I can also limit my own energy consumption. And most importantly, out the backdoor of my camper is my playground. When I want to hit the road, my options are endless.

I don’t really need to do much planning for my climbing trips any-more, either. earlier this summer, my fiancé and I packed up the truck and went to North Conway. We floated the Saco river, got

a handful of pitches in at Cathedral, and when we were done, we packed up and headed back west to Vermont’s Wheeler moun-tain. It was total unadulterated freedom. We could park where we wanted and we slept where we wanted.

Living out of a vehicle isn’t for everyone, but for those of you con-sidering it, there are a few things to keep in mind. Going days with-out bathing isn’t very appealing to most people, and I can assure you that you’ll get a little smelly too. even though I have a bath-room in the camper, I try not to use it. Cleaning it can be tricky, messy and gross, so I need to scout a few places for when nature calls. Fast food restaurants are my best resource because most of the time, the employees don’t pay attention to who is coming and going—just stay away from the food. In general it’s tough staying organized, and I have a hard time staying motivated to cook on the tiny stove. but these small hurdles can definitely be overcome.

The winters in the Northeast are cold too, but can be withstood with a little preparation, like extra insulation and wrapping the windows with plastic. Sleeping quarters are small, and not very luxurious, so your chances of hooking up with someone in a truck camper are slim. but living in your vehicle does make for a great conversation starter. So if you play your cards right, she might take you back to her place….

OFF ROuTE // INauGuRal DISPaTCh

By DaVID CROThERS


www.cloudsplitterguides.compO box 11, keene Valley, Ny, 12943

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Navigate the crags and terrain in real time with embedded maps and GPS points.

Test Drive all the features with the Free edition that contains three of Rumney’s classic walls.

Check Out all of our other guide-apps.

Rumney Climbing app

aROuND TOWN // ClaSSIFIEDS

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Climberism Magazine Issue #16

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Transcript of Climberism Magazine Issue #16