Climb StrongClimb Strong

An Intelligent Approach to Elevating Climbing PerformanceAn Intelligent Approach to Elevating Climbing Performance

Steve Bechtel & Eric J. Hörst

ElementalGym.com TrainingElementalGym.com Training44Climbing.comClimbing.com

Sponsors:Sponsors:

Nicros.com SterlingRope.comSportiva.com

ObjectivesObjectives• Present science-based fundamentals of training for

climbing and elevating climbing performance.

• Encourage a targeted, results-based program for improving your performance and quality of experience.

• Describe select exercises, techniques, and tactics that are safe and uncommonly effective.

• Provide the framework for a practical, self-directed program that works (ie. different from the masses).

• Present “smart training” strategies for developing technique, mental skills, and physical capabilities.

Analysis of Analysis of Strengths & WeaknessesStrengths & Weaknesses

Reasons for your current ability level:

• Years of experience & frequency of climbing• Genetics (FOX 1996)

• Importance of climbing

• Knowledge of training principles and “right practice”

• Quality of training & coaching

• Level of self-awareness, mental control, & will power

• Willingness to fail

• Where you climb and how often you roadtrip

• Climbing/training partners

To elevate performance you need to:

• Make a decision that you must climb better!

• Increase importance of climbing better & embrace necessary changes

• Stretch boundaries (mental & physical)--be willing to fail!

• Refine technique & expand skills. Increase exposure to new terrain and areas.

• Leverage new partnerships

• Train smarter (harder?)

The RubThe Rub

The “Climbing The “Climbing Performance Pie”Performance Pie”

Self-Assessment:

• Which “piece” is your strength?

• Which “piece” is most holding you back?

• Technique Training

• Physical Fitness Training

• Mental Training

• Training Support Activities (injury prevention, nutrition, rest, recovery aids)

Components Components of TFCof TFC

Climb Strong – Self-AssessmentClimb Strong – Self-Assessment

In taking this assessment, it’s best to read each question once and then immediately select an answer. Don’t overanalyze the questions, and resist the common tendency to cheat up on your scores.

Circle the answer that most accurately describes your current abilities and modus operandi. Each part consists of five questions worth a total of 25 points.

Compare your scores in each part to identify the two or three areas most holding you back—these would be the lowest scoring parts of the assessment. Similarly, survey your answers question by question to identify specific weaknesses that should become the bull’s-eye of your conditioning program.

Part 1 - Part 1 - Evaluate Your Climbing Experience

1. How long have you been climbing?1—less than six months, 2—six to twelve months, 3—one to four years, 4—five to ten years, 5—more than ten years 2. On average, how many days per month to do you climb (both indoors and outdoors)?1—one day or less, 2—two or three days, 3—four to eight days, 4—nine to twelve days, 5—more than twelve days 3. How many different climbing areas and gyms have you visited in the last year?1—just one, 2—two to four, 3—five to nine, 4—ten to fifteen, 5—more than fifteen 4. How many of the following styles of climbing have you been active in over the last year: bouldering, gym climbing, sport climbing, follow trad climbs, leading trad climbs, big walls? 1—one or two, 2—three, 3—four, 4—five, 5—six 5. How many of the following types of climbing have you engaged in over the last three months: slab climbing, face climbing, crack climbing, overhanging face climbing, pocket climbing, roofs?1—one or two, 2—three, 3—four, 4—five, 5—six

Part 2 - Part 2 - Evaluate Your Technical Skills

 1. My footwork and overall technique deteriorate during the hardest part of a climb.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never 2. Cracks, slabs, and roofs feel hard for the grade compared with a similarly graded face climb.1—almost always, 2—often, 4—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never 3. I have difficulty finding midroute rest positions and shakeouts.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never 4. On the typical climb, I feel like much of my body weight is hanging on my arms.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never 5. On overhanging routes and roofs, I have difficulty finding the optimal body position or keeping my feet from cutting loose.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never

Part 3 - Part 3 - Evaluate Your Mental Skills

1. I visualize myself successfully climbing the route before I leave the ground.1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always 2. I get anxious, tight, and hesitant as I climb into crux sequences.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never 3. I miss hidden holds or blow a known sequence.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never

4. I make excuses for why I might fail on a route before I even begin to climb.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never 5. When lead climbing a safe route, I push myself to the complete limit and, if I fall, I fall trying.1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always

Part 4 - Part 4 - Evaluate Your Level of General Conditioning

1. How many pounds (body fat or excessively bulky muscles) do you estimate you are from your ideal climbing weight?1—more than twenty, 2—ten to twenty, 3—five to ten, 4—just a few, 5—zero 2. How far could you jog (modest pace steady running) without stopping?1—less than 0.5 mile, 2—0.5 - 1 mile, 3—1 - 2 miles, 4—3 - 5 miles, 5—more than 5 miles 3. How many pull-ups can you do in a single set? 1—women: one or none, men: less than five, 2—women: two to four, men: five to nine, 3—women: five to nine, men: ten to nineteen, 4—women: 10 to 20, men: 20 to 30, 5—women: more than 20, men: more than 30

4. How many push-ups can you do in a single set?1—women: two or fewer, men: less than five, 2—women: three to six, men: five to fifteen, 3—women: 7 to 15, men: 16 to 25, 4—women: 16 to 25, men: 26 to 40, 5—women: more than 25, men: more than 40 5. How many Abdominal Crunches can you do in a single set (knees bent)?1—less than ten, 2—ten to twenty, 3—twenty-one to forty-nine, 4—fifty to seventy-five, 5—more than 75

Part 5 - Part 5 - Evaluate Your Sport-Specific Conditioning

1. On overhanging routes with large holds, I pump out quickly and need to hang on the rope.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never 2. I have difficulty hanging on small, necessary-to-use holds.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never

3. I find it difficult to hold a lock-off with one arm when I let go to advance the other hand.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never 4. Given a marginal midclimb rest, I can shake out and recover enough to complete the route.1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always 5. My maximum bouldering ability is:1—V0 or V1, 2—V2 to V3, 3—V4 to V5, 4—V6 to V7, 5—V8 or above

Part 6 - Part 6 - Evaluate Your Injury Risk

1. I perform a warm-up activity and some stretching before climbing or training.1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—always 2. I climb hard on three or more consecutive days.1—every week, 2—often, 3—a couple times per month, 4—once per month, 5—seldom or never 3. When climbing, I experience elbow, shoulder, or finger pain.1—almost always, 2—often, 3—occasionally, 4—infrequently, 5—never 4. I engage in regular training of the antagonist push muscles.1—never, 2—infrequently, 3—a few times a month, 4—once or twice a week, 5—twice a week, religiously 5. I stop climbing or end a workout prematurely if I experience unusual joint or tendon pain.1—no, 3—sometimes, 5—yes

Part 7 - Part 7 - Evaluate Your Nutritional Habits

1. How often do you eat breakfast?1—seldom or never, 3—about half the time, 5—every day 2. How often do you eat fast food or fried foods?1—four or more days per week, 2—two to three days per week, 3—once a week, 4—once or twice per month, 5—less than once per month 3. On average, how soon after a workout or the end of your climbing day do you consume some carbohydrate and protein?1—more than three hours, 2—two to three hours, 3—one to two hours, 4—thirty minutes to one hour, 5—within thirty minutes 4. How many servings of fruits and vegetables do you consume per day? 1—zero or one, 2—two, 3—three, 4—four, 5—five or more 5. How often do you plan out your meals ahead of time for the purpose of eating for performance and optimal recovery?1—seldom or never, 2—once per week, 3—two or three days per week, 4—four to six days per week, 5—every day

Part 8 - Part 8 - Evaluate Your Lifestyle and Discipline

1. How many days per week do you engage in a physical activity such as climbing, training, or another sport?1—one, 2—two, 3—three, 4—four, 5—five 2. On average, how many hours sleep do you get each night?1—less than five, 2—five to six, 3—six to seven, 4—seven to eight, 5—more than eight 3. How often do you pig out eating and drinking with little restraint?1—3 or more days per week, 2—twice per week, 3—once per week, 4—once or twice per month, 5—never 4. Do you smoke?1—yes, daily, 3—occasionally, 5—no 5. When you set goals or begin a workout program, how often do you follow through to successful completion?1—seldom, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always 

Creating Your Assessment Profile

Using figure below, fill in the bar graphs according to your score in each part of the package to plot the results to obtain a graphical profile. Take note of your three shortest bars. These low-scoring areas represent the greatest constraints on your climbing performance.