Climb KamloopsGuide Book

by Trevor Lott

Version 0.1 - Spring 2010

HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR GUIDE BOOK

This book is designed to be printed and put together. If you follow theseinstructions, use good paper and a reasonable printer (ideally a colourprinter), you'll have a good looking guide that will help you spend moretime climbing and waste less time route finding.

- Choose Landscape printing on High Quality colour setting.- Do not print page one (this page).- Print page two (the cover) on strong paper, if you have it.

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1 2Insert folded pagesinside cover page

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Climb Kamloops

Welcome to Kamloops. I hope that you find this guide useful and accurate asyou explore the area. Through publish/print on demand, this guide book isupdated frequently based on climber feedback so feel free to send commentsto trevor@climbkamloops.ca. The feedback will be rolled into newversions of the guide which will be posted on climbkamloops.ca.

This guide would not have been possible without the kind support of manymembers of the climbing community. First and foremost my thanks to the many local fanatics including Garry Brace, Brian Nuttall, Ken Attwood, SimonGriffin, Alejandro Lyle and Bruce Stover for their countless hours (and dollars!) required to find, clean and equip the routes we enjoy today. Withouttheir enthusiasm, and willingness to share we'd be....mountain biking.

A special thank you to Rockfax, the gold standard in climbing guides and thegiant whose shoulders I stand upon, for inspiration to write this guide and fortheir generous loan of the icons within this guide.

And finally, thank you to my wife and climbing partner, Paula. At almost half ofmy weight, she has twice the motivation as me to climb and explore new areas, and always gives me a soft catch.

Do Not Print This Page

by Trevor Lott

Version 0.1 - Spring 2010

Climb KamloopsGuide Book

KamloopsSavona

Cache Creek

10 km

Kamloops Lake

Prickly Pear CanyonThe Beach

Roche Lake

Monte Creek

Hen House

Spences Bridge

Dairy Creek

Chicken Little

N

11

1

5A

5

97

97 5

Roche Lake is crown jewel of the Kamloops climbing scene. With fine routes on quality rockand a quiet forest setting, not to mention a short approach, it's easy to see why the areais a favourite. The area features 29 single pitch routes, up to 23 m, including the hardestroutes in the Kamloops area.

ConditionsAs a west facing crag, the area receives its sunshine in the afternoon. Pockets of trees ensurethat there are always slivers of shade before the early evening when the sun begins to descendbehind the trees. While this makes climbing in the heat of summer a possibility, the altitudeand restricted exposure means you're likely to have snow in the area, or a muddy access intoearly May. Take insect repellent in the spring.

Getting There GPS: +50° 29' 49.50", -120° 11' 51.18"While the area isn't difficult to find, the extra detail below will ensure that no one gets lost.Portions of the road can be muddy, rocky or quite loose. Most cars can manage but a truckor 4x4 will make the trip a little more comfortably.

The Roche Lake climbing area 34 km south of Kamloops. From Kamloops, take the 5Ahighway south towards Merrit. Reset your trip odometer in Kamloops at the collection of gasstations on the corner of highway 5A and Rogers Way. Travel south 23.5 km to the wellsigned start of Roche Lake Road. Travel east on Roche Lake Road for 7.3 km (odometer 30.8 km) to the entrance sign of Roche Lake Provincial Park. From the sign, continue lefton the road for 400 m to another fork and turn left (odometer 31.2 km). Continue straight

for 700 m before turning left (odometer 31.9), turning right will take you to Bleeker Lake. Ignoringthe smaller private roads that branch off, continuestraight along this road for 2.5 km (odometer 34.4 km). The climbing wall will be on your right andwill not be visible until you are right next to it.

Approach - 1 minutePark within the pull-outs or along the side of theroad. The trail descends steeply for 15 m beforereaching the forest floor immediately in front of thewall. The trail forks from there to reach variousportions of the climbing area.

A handful of routes, not covered in this guide arefound 7 minutes to the east if you follow the trailuphill.

P

approx. 100 m

N

Roche Lake - Left

Bleeker

Lake

5A

Roche Lake

approx. 1000 mto Kamloops

Roche LakeProvincial Park

Roche Lake Road

Park EntranceSign

N

TrappLakeRoad

1 Boogie Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 The easiest route in the area.

6 Denise's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a Start up the ramp.

5 Wild Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.9A quality route with a variety of interesting moves and big holds.

2 The Sweep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 Make use of incuts on the slabby wall and make your way to the chainswrapped around the tree.

4 Unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8

Roche Lake - LeftThe northern most portion of the climbing area can be seen from the parking pull out andis easily reached by taking the left trail as you descend from the road.

1 2

3

45

6

3 The Pea Pod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . 5.8

Phot

o co

urte

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f Gar

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race

Roche LakeROCHE LAKE1 min

1 2

Roche Lake

Roche Lake - Left Centre

Roche Lake - Left CentreThe left centre portion of Roche Lake is easily landmarked by the prominent roof.

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8

9

10 1112

13 14

15

Phot

o co

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race

Roche Lake

The 5th Day of Christmas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 5.12d

13 unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . project

Evil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 5.12c

18 Airheads. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11d

16 Something Totally Inappropriate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12b

14

15

16

17

18

Roche Lake - Right Centre

Thin face climbing leads to an awkward crux at the last bolt.3 Hard Day At The Office . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 5.10b

Palmer's Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 5.9+Sustained face climbing on thin holds..

Sustained face climbing on thin holds..Midnight Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 5.10a

The direct finish goes at 5.10b.

A chimney route that ends at a pair of bolts.unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ?

As in Not A Sport Route. Two bolts protect the start.NASR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 5.10d

14 Good . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10dA short route that packs in a surprising amount of movement..

17 Going South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12aNot so much as climb, as a series of distinct cruxes. Certain to keep your attention.

3 4

Roche Lake

Roche Lake - RightThe right (south) portion of the wall hosts a collection of the best routes in the areafor the grade with lengthy, well bolted lines on compact and slightly overhanging rock,featuring (mostly) positive holds.

Roche Lake

Roche Lake - Right

1920

22

23

21

2524

Roche Lake - Right

20

2221

23 24 25 26 27

28

26 Crash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12b Not shown in picture. Start to the right of "Juice" andfollow a broken arrete.

Brass Monkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 5.10a

Local lore claims that skipping the last bolt makes thecrux sequence easier. The extension to the secondset of anchors is "The Fresh End" at 5.13b.

Killing Yourself to Live. . . . . . . 19 5.13a

20 Flick of the Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12dStart on "Killing" and finish on "Fedoras". Theextension to the second set of anchors is "Flicked It"at 5.13a.

Roche Lake - Right (continued)Landmark using the tree leaning on the wall on the right. The first route on the leftof the tree is "Separating Sanity", the first route on the right of the "Juice".

Three tough moves on sharp, tiny crimps have earnedit the name "the stupid climb" amongst locals.

Separating Sanity . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 5.11d

Save something for the pumpy bulge.The Verdict . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 5.12a

An excellent route whose popularity is making it a tadpolished. The finishing move is the reach for the chains.

Trails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 5.11a

Big moves on juggy holds. Good luck getting off theground if you're short.

Juice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 5.11a

You'll understand the name when you're movingbetween the last bolt and the chains.

Flight Risk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 5.11d

25 Circumstantial Evidence . . . . . 5.11dMove right when you hit the roof to step onto theface and navigate a cruxy sequence of side-pulls. Milkany rest of you can find before taking on theremaining face.

21 Men in Fedoras . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12cStart up "The Verdict" to a roof and large horizontalcrack system. Use good holds within the crack totraverse left before continuing up on small holds. Finish on the chains for "Flick the Switch"; continuingup to the higher anchor will earn you a 5.13a.

5 6

7 8

87

1 The Pigeons Were Talking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tucked behind a corner, 20m left (west) of the main wall.

6 Spanish Fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stick to the arete on the right when the holds become thin and the rockbecomes brittle.

Easier than it looks from the ground; the crux lies in finding holds to the finish.

8 Tweezers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7 Propriorception . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Work the face and arete before moving into the crack.

3 Beware the Prickly Pear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pumpy, even more so if you can't find the hidden holds around the arete.

5 Passion is a Remedy Against Boredom . . . . . . . . . . Nice moves and good flow, leaves you wanting more.

Prickly Pear Canyon

2 3 4 65

PRICKLY PEAR CANYON

2 The Spanish Indecision . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Short. The crux move is the reach for the triangle anchor.

4 Something to Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5.12a

5.8

5.10c

5.9

5.10a

5.10d

5.10c

5.9

Savona

Cache Creek

10 km

Prickly Pear Canyon

Kamloops Lake

97

ConditionsThe south facing rock is best climbed in the early spring or late fall, before the summer sunturns it into a basalt solar oven. However, the area moves into the shade in the late afternoonand cool air seeps from the canyon making it a nice after work escape during the long summerevenings. Beware of the Poison Ivy deeper in the canyon and of course, watch out for the Prickly Pear cacti that adorn the ground at the base of the routes.

As a new area, loose rock is common here: wear your helmet.

Getting There GPS: +50° 78' 89.54", -121° 78' 85.55"Prickly Pear Canyon is 28 km west of Savona (reset your trip odometer at the Super-Savegas station) and 10 km east of Cache Creek. The canyon is located approximately 150 mnorth of the Trans-Canada highway.

barbed wire fence

dirt road

P

approx. 100 m Approach - 4 minutesPark on the side of the highway, near the BC Hydroaccess gate. Just beyond the gate you'll see an old dirtroad, follow it east (right), approximately 250m, untilyou see a trail (left) leading to the canyon.

Please note that this area is on leased land and thatclimbers should keep a low profile. Do not hop thebarbwire fence (use the access gate). Stay on theestablished trails, avoid damaging any fencing, don'tlitter and clean up any garbage you find.

Prickly Pear Canyon is a new development west of Kamloops. The area features vertical basalt columns on good quality rock with routes up to 13 m high. While it won't keepyou busy for a full day, the short approach makes it is a nice place to knock off a few routes on rock that differs from the other local crags.

N

N

1

1

1

Park alongside of highway

4 min

gate

The BeachTHE BEACH

A great view, a comfortable base area and a collection moderate grades makes The Beacha popular climbing area in Kamloops. Most routes are on good quality vertical and incutladen rock ranging from 7 m to 20 m in length. The sport routes are well bolted and havefixed chain anchors.

ConditionsWith its north face and pleasant lake view, The Beach can be a peaceful and comfortableoasis during hot summer days. The sun eventually reaches the rock face but not until laterin the evening which also makes it an ideal place for after work climbing. The area is quickto dry out in the spring or after passing showers.

Getting There GPS: +50° 45' 4.08", -120° 43' 36.36"The Beach is located along the Trans-Canada Highway, west of Kamloops, 24.5 km west ofhighway 5 or 9 km east of Savona. Park within the public rest area on the north side of thehighway.

KamloopsSavona

10 km

Kamloops Lake

The BeachN

1

5A5

5

1

Approach - 8 minutesPark within the rest area andlook for the gate next to thelarge information signs. Takethe left trail up to the top ofthe hill and follow it (west) asit descend and turns east.

fence

approx. 100 m

P picnic area

N

1

34

5

56

7

The Beach - RightThe left (west) portion of the main wall at The Beach contains the first group of routes you will encouter from the trail in.

The first two routes approximately 15m right (west) of Needles on the Beach.

The farthest route on the right (west) side of the crag.1 Unnamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.4

A couple of tough moves up to the second bolt give it the grade beforeit eases off.

5 Burnt and Peeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10c

7 Bawanna's Vendetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11b

2 The Gift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.7

4 Impermenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a Sustained moves on thin, crimpy holds.

21

3 Needles on the Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10b The first route you'll find from the parking lot approach.

Interesting moves off the ground before the route fades off into the crack.6 Little Crack 1/2 Way Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10d

8 min

to parking

The Beach - Right

9 10

The Beach

11 12

The Beach

to parking

The Beach - Right CentreThe centre portion of the main wall can be best landmarked by finding the large offwidth crack that spans the height of the crag.

rock gulley

Just like its neighbour, but harder.8 Cottage Cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10d

Short and steep.9 Sound of One Wave Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a

Sod Wrestler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 A deservedly popular introduction to outdoor face climbing.10

Sustained and well protected climbing.Wolly Bully . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a/b 12

Jealosy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10b 14

Going Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a Gear is only required if you climb past the first station where two boltswill get you started toward the crack that requires a couple of small pieces. 30m from the ground to the top.

11

Climb the crack and finish on Jealosy.Riptide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a 13

to parking

891011121415

rock gulley

13

Fairies Wear Boots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10b 15

A fine route with a variation start (right) at 5.11b.

The Beach - Right Centre

to parking

The Beach - Left CentreAnother full height fissure in the wall landmarks a cluster of routes.

rock gulley

19 17

18

Shares the anchors with Exodus.Lichen in my Eye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10b 16

Exodus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10c A pair of powerful pulls and delicate balancing moves keeps your mind from wandering.

17

Start on the face, left of the arrete. Named for the tiny hidden incuts thatare critical for the lower half, the upper half eases off a lot.

Where's Waldo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11a18

A nice long route up the arrete.The Voices Told Me . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.9 19

16171819to parking

The Beach - Left Centre

The BeachThe Beach

to parking

The Beach - LeftThe centre portion of the main wall can be best landmarked by finding the large offwidth crack that spans the height of the crag.

rock gulley

to parking

20212223

24

24

Static Cling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11c/d Thin and smooth off the ground..21

A fun route with a challenging roof to pull over at the end..Punch the Monkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10a 22

Quality moves on vertical rock..

Tachycardia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11a 24

Considered a dangerous route and probably named by the firstascensionist.

Never Again . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 23

Climb the crack and finish on the anchors that complete the routes onthe left.

Seamstress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 20

The Beach - Left

14 15

The Beach - LowerNew development, among the handful of old and seldom climbed routes, is beinglooked into by Mitchell Forgie. New routes will be added into this guide in thenear future.