Making a Civil War apron

First, some notes:

An apron can either have a “bib” on top or just the half apron on the bottom. If you make one with the

bib on top, you can always fold the bib down inside when you don’t need protection on top.

An apron is only worn at home for working. Ladies would not wear their apron while visiting, shopping,

or strolling down the street. (I don’t wear my modern kitchen apron to the store, either.) :)

Aprons should not match your outfit. Unless you’re making a fancy apron or a shop-keeper’s apron

(which would be white), it should be made from an 1860’s print (dark enough to hide stains) or a home-

spun woven plaid. Avoid poly blends—they’re dangerous near fire. Choose 100% cotton. (If you work

near a hearth fire a lot, 100% wool may be safer.)

Plan to have a couple of buttons for the closure.

An apron was made “just for you,” and fitted to

your (corseted) waist. Ties waste fabric, and

don’t stay put while you’re working anyway. A

couple of wood or mother-of-pearl buttons will

do the trick.

Wash, dry, and iron fabric before beginning.

This is a “one-size fits most” pattern.

For specific sizing tips, see the notes at the end.

A quarter-inch seam allowance is included

in all measurements.

Bib: Cut 2

Waistband: Cut 2

Skirt: Cut 1

Width: Selvage-to-selvage of fabric (36 or 44-inches)

Len

gth

: 27 1

/2 i

nches

(inclu

des

2”

hem

and 1

/2”

at t

he

top)

Width: 13 1/2 inches at top

Hei

gh

t: 9

inches

Optional: make the bottom a little bit

smaller than the top.

Length: Waist + 5” overlap + 1/2” seams

2 1

/2 i

nches

Buttonholes

Directions Finish Bib

Place Bib pieces right sides together, and sew sides and top together. (Leave bottom open.) Turn Bib right

side out, and press. Then top-stitch around the three edges. (Bottom is still open.)

Finish Skirt Finish the sides with a hem, or—if the edges are the selvage of the fabric—you can leave them unfinished. (If

your printed fabric has white edges at the selvage, you’ll have to hem those under.)

Mark the bottom for a two-inch hem. Turn under the edge and press before hemming to hide any frayed

edges.

Finish waistband Press a quarter inch to the wrong side of all the edges of both waistband pieces.

Assemble Run gathering stitches along the top of the skirt and gather the top until it’s about 14-16 inches wide at the top.

Lay one Waistband piece on your work table, right side down. Center your gathered apron top on the waist-

band, right side up. Pin.

Optional: make just a few tucks and/or gathers in the bottom of the bib.

Center the Bib above the apron skirt on the bottom waistband piece.

Place the other Waistband piece (right side up) on top of the first one—sandwiching the gathered skirt and the

Bib inside. The waistband edges should already be pressed under, so match the edges, pin the whole thing

really well, and sew the waistband edges together (like topstitching on the outside).

Try on the apron (with your corset and dress on) to place the buttons. Add two buttonholes to one end of the

waistband.

To wear: use a straight sewing pin (with a metal head—not plastic) to hold up each top corner of the bib. You

can weave the point in and out of the fabric and into the seam allowance to keep the pins from sliding out and

poking anyone.

Sizing notes Finished Apron Length

Ladies want their apron to come to just below their knees (with the corded petticoat or hoop on).

Younger girls still wearing shorter dresses: Make the apron about a hand-span shorter than the hem of your

dress.

Bib Size If you want to size the bib just for you:

Bib width: measure nipple to nipple, and then add a half-inch seam allowance (for quarter-inch seams

on either side).

Bib height: measure from the waistline to just above the nipple line, and then add a quarter-inch for a

seam on top and a half-inch to get tucked into the waistband on the bottom.

© 2015, Dana Gagnon