Chinese Rsl Restrictions by Aafa Vvv

207
www.intertek.com International Product Safety & Restricted Substances Conference Hangzhou May 11, 2010

description

AAFA RSL Guidelines

Transcript of Chinese Rsl Restrictions by Aafa Vvv

  • www.intertek.com

    International Product Safety & Restricted

    Substances Conference

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Product Stewardship in the Global Value Chain

  • Industry EnvironmentIndustry Environment

    Product recalls Emerging legislation and regulation Corporate social responsibilities Sustainable consumption and production models Increased multi-stakeholder expectations Transparency & traceability

  • Product Stewardship ObjectivesProduct Stewardship Objectives

    Social and eco-logical considerations are designed into products

    Products are safe during their intended use Products are free of defects and conform to order

    requirements Products perform their required functions safely,

    reliably, and with minimum performance degradation over their expected life

    Products comply with all applicable regulatory, statutory, legislative standards (i.e. ASTM, BSI, CPSIA, REACH, EU, etc)

    Identify and develop suitable supply partners with the required manufacturing, quality, safety,social & environmental systems

  • Product Safety AssuranceProduct Safety Assurance

    Four Stage ApproachSupplier Evaluation & Qualification strategic choicesProduct DevelopmentTesting / CertificationInspection

  • Compliance Standards & ReferenceCompliance Standards & Reference

    QA Systems Testing / Certification Standards Labeling Standards Consumer Product Safety Commission Product

    Recall Information Defect Classifications Product Performance Standards Restricted Substances Lists (RSL) Acceptable Quality Levels (AQLs)

  • Product Safety Best PracticeProduct Safety Best Practice

    Conduct due diligence on potential partners Adopt a solid product safety compliance policy Implement a robust product-safety testing program Communicate and educate up/down the supply

    chain Ensure products are adequately identified for

    traceability and tracking Preserve and maintain documentation

    information management Consider appropriate indemnification and

    insurance coverage Shift from suppliers to partners

  • RSL/ Chemical ManagementRSL/ Chemical Management

    Risk assessment, design review, factory assessment Establish and RSL/ chemical management policy Communicate, train and educate supply chain Materials management Monitor and control Verify and validate

  • Industry FutureIndustry Future

    Extended producer responsibilities Standards harmonization Low impact materials, technologies and processes Sustainable production and consumption Product life cycle management Multi-stakeholder exchange / collaboration

  • Thank youThank you

  • International Product International Product Safety & Restricted Safety & Restricted

    Substances ConferenceSubstances Conference

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • www.intertek.com

    Understanding Government Product Safety Standards and Regulations

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • www.intertek.com

    Prof. James Wang Intertek Consumer Goods

    China Domestic Market Services May 6, 2009 in Dongguan 201056 May 11, 2009 in Hangzhou 2010511

    Eco-Safety Technical Codes for Apparel & Footwear Products in China

    2010 AAFA 2010 AAFA International Product Safety & Restricted Substances Conference China

  • www.intertek.com

    Structure of Standardization System of China

    GB 18401-2003 GB 18401-2003 National general safety technical code for textile products

    GB 20400-2006 GB 20400-2006 Leather and fur limit of harmful matter

    GB 21550-2008 GB 21550-2008 The restriction of hazardous materials in polyvinyl chloride artificial leather

    GB 19601-2004 23GB 19601-2004 Limit and determination of 23 harmful aromatic amines in dye products

    GB 208142006 10GB 20814-2006 Limit and determination of the quantity of 10 heavy-metal elements in dye products

    FZ/T 81014-2008 FZ/T 81014-2008 Infants wear

    National mandatory standard-Footwear-Limit of harmful substances

    Product quality supervision system of China

    14

    Discussion topics

  • www.intertek.com 15

    Classifying of Chinese

    Standards

    Classifying of Chinese

    Standards

    Grading of Chinese

    Standards

    Grading of Chinese

    Standards

    National Standard

    National Standard

    Structure of Standardization System of China

    Industrial Standard

    Industrial Standard

    Local Standard

    Local Standard

    Enterprise Standard

    Enterprise Standard

    Mandatory Standard

    Mandatory Standard

    Voluntary Standard

    Voluntary Standard

    / Such as GB, FZ, QB/ Such as GB, FZ, QB

    /Such asGB/T, FZ/T, QB/T

    /Such asGB/T, FZ/T, QB/T

    Method Standard

    Method Standard

    Product Standard

    Product Standard

    Basic Standard

    Basic Standard

  • www.intertek.com

    Application Scope: The textile products manufactured, sold or used in China.

    Product Classification A Category A Products for babiesB Category B Products with direct skin contactC Category C Products without direct skin contact

    GB 18401-2003 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products

    cannot be used(20 mg/kg)

    Banned azo colorants( carcinogenic aromatic amines)

    None odor--4 To saliva334 To dry rubbing333-4 To perspiration333-4 To water

    Colorfastness( grade)

    4.0-9.04.0-7.54.0-7.5pH pH value3007520 Formaldehyde (mg/kg),

    Category CCategory BCategory A Requirements

  • www.intertek.com

    GB 18401 Updating of GB 18401GB 18401-2003WTOGB 18401-2003 has been revised and the updated version has been circulated within WTO. The updated edition is expected to be effective around the end of this year.

    GB 18401 Key Updates on GB 18401* 2436

    Definition of Infant: to be changed from 24 months to 36 months* BpH4.0-7.54.0-8.5

    pH value requirement for Category B: to be changed from 4.0-7.5 to 4.0-8.5*

    Colorfastness to perspiration is not required on drapery fabrics such as curtain*

    Toy, textile handcraft, luggage, backpack, footwear, umbrella, carpet, havelock,tabernacle etc. to be excluded in the application scope of this code.

    * 244-The banned amine list is changed to total of 24 aromatic amines including4-aminoazobenzene

    GB 18401-2003 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products

  • www.intertek.com

    Application Scope: Home leather and fur products.

    Products are classified according to its final usesA Category A Products for babiesB Category B Products with direct contact to skin C Category C Products without direct contact to skin

    * 234-Total 23 aromatic amines excluding 4-aminoazobenzene are banned in therestricted list

    * Cr (VI) is not in the restricted list

    GB 20400-2006 Leather and Fur Limit of Harmful Matter

    300 mg/kg 600 mg/kg for sheared sheepskin

    75 mg/kg20 mg/kg Free formaldehyde

    30 mg/kg Carcinogenic aromatic amines (banned azo colorants)

    C Category CB Category BA Category A Limit

    Items

  • www.intertek.com

    PVCPVCApplication Scope: PVC artificial leathers made of mainly PVC resin and processed with relevant auxiliary agents via various technologies.

    Technical requirements:

    * PVC Ethylene chloride monomer in PVC: 5mg/kg

    * Soluble heavy metals: lead (Pb) 90mg/kg, cadmium (Cd) 75mg/kg

    * Other volatiles: 20mg/kg

    GB 21550-2008 The Restriction of Hazardous Materials in Polyvinyl Chloride Artificial Leather

  • www.intertek.com

    Application Scope: Various commercial dyes, dyestuff preparations, dye intermediates and auxiliary agents for textile, dyeing and finishing processes.

    Requirement:

    *23 150mg/kgThe content of all 23 harmful aromatic amines should not exceed 150 mg/kg individually based on the weight of dry sample.

    * 4-4-aminoazobenzene is not listed in the harmful aromatic amines list.

    GB 19601-2004 23 Limit and Determination of 23 Harmful Aromatic Amines in Dye Products

  • www.intertek.com

    Application Scope: Commercial dyes in various states including liquid dyes, pigment printing paste

    Requirement:10Limit of 10 heavy metal elements in dye products based on the weight of dry sample:

    GB 20814-2006 10 Limit and Determination of The Quantity of 10 Heavy-Metal Elements in Dye Products

    Zincum Antimony Lead Nickel

    Manganese Element

    Zn

    Sb

    Pb

    Ni

    Mn

    15002500Fe Iron50250Cu Copper

    100100Cr Chromium200500Co Cobalt

    100020Cd Cadmium Limit (mg/kg) Limit (mg/kg) Element

  • www.intertek.com

    Application Scope: Infants wears mainly made from woven fabrics.

    Below requirements are mandatory in the standard:* GB 18401-2003A

    Products must meet the requirements of Category A in GB 18401-2003.*

    Below additional requirements are mandatory as well

    FZ/T 81014-2008 Infants Wear

    25.0 Cu 0.2 As 0.2 Pb 1.0 Cr 0.02 Hg

    Extractable heavy

    metals

    mg/kg

    Technical requirements Items

  • www.intertek.com

    201035A new national mandatory standard about limit of harmful substances in footwear has been drafted and passed examination on 5th March 2010. Now, the document is being undergone formal approval procedure.

    The standard was initially named as Sanitation Safety Technical Code for Footwear. The respective standardization committee has proposed to change the name as Footwear-Limit of Harmful Substances in the final draft.

    Only formaldehyde, banned azo dyestuff and extractable heavy metals including lead (Pb), cadmium (Cd) and arsenic (As) are restricted in the standard as harmful substances.

    National Mandatory Standard-Footwear-Limit of Harmful Substances

  • www.intertek.com

    Product Quality Supervision System of China

    General Administration of Quality

    Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine, AQSIQ

    General Administration of Quality

    Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine, AQSIQ

    Local Entry-Exit Inspection and

    Quarantine Bureaus

    Local Entry-Exit Inspection and

    Quarantine Bureaus

    State Administration for Industry & Commerce,

    SAIC

    State Administration for Industry & Commerce,

    SAIC

    Local Bureaus of

    Quality and Technical Supervision

    Local Bureaus of

    Quality and Technical Supervision

    Local Administration

    of Industry and Commerce

    Local Administration

    of Industry and Commerce

    Supervision on Import & Export

    Supervision on Import & Export

    Supervision on Production

    & Manufacture

    Supervision on Production

    & Manufacture

    Supervision on

    Market

    Supervision on

    Market

  • www.intertek.com

  • U.S. Product Safety RegulationsU.S. Product Safety Regulations

    CPSIA, Prop 65, & Other CPSIA, Prop 65, & Other RegsRegsNate HermanNate Herman

    American Apparel & Footwear AssociationAmerican Apparel & Footwear Association

    AAFA International Product Safety & Restricted AAFA International Product Safety & Restricted Substances ConferenceSubstances Conference

  • Apparel & Footwear Recalls

    Recalls by Category

    0

    5

    10

    15

    20

    25

    30

    35

    40

    45

    50

    1974

    1976

    1978

    1980

    1982

    1984

    1986

    1988

    1990

    1992

    1994

    1996

    1998

    2000

    2002

    2004

    2006

    2008

    2010

    (Yea

    r to D

    ate)

    Year

    R

    e

    c

    a

    l

    l

    s

    Other

    Flammable Fabrics

    Lead

    Small Parts/Choking

    Draw strings

  • CPSIA StandardsCPSIA Standards Lead & lead paint standardsLead & lead paint standards Phthalate standardPhthalate standard Tracking labelsTracking labels Stay of testing and certificationStay of testing and certification

    Still need to test for lead paint with Still need to test for lead paint with third party testing facility and issue third party testing facility and issue GCCGCC

    Retailer standardsRetailer standards Tracking labels, general conformity Tracking labels, general conformity

    certificatescertificates

    NonNon--CPSIA StandardsCPSIA Standards FFA (childrenFFA (childrens sleepwear)s sleepwear) DrawstringsDrawstrings Small PartsSmall Parts

    International RegulationsInternational Regulations State LegislationState Legislation

    California PROPOSITION 65California PROPOSITION 65

    TodayToday

  • ChildrenChildrens Products s Products Subject to more Subject to more

    standards than adult standards than adult products/general use products/general use products.products.

    Designed or intended Designed or intended primarilyprimarily for children 12 for children 12 years of age and under.years of age and under. How the product is representedHow the product is represented How the public recognizes the productHow the public recognizes the product Any manufacturer statementsAny manufacturer statements CPSC Age Determination GuidelinesCPSC Age Determination Guidelines

    Just because a child may Just because a child may wear the product does wear the product does not mean that it is a not mean that it is a childrenchildrens product.s product.

  • Lead & Lead PaintLead & Lead Paint

    ScrapeableScrapeable surface coatings are subject to surface coatings are subject to the lead standard, everything else, lead the lead standard, everything else, lead substratesubstrate

    Lead standard:Lead standard: 300ppm, 90ppm for lead in paint300ppm, 90ppm for lead in paint Applies to every component of a childrenApplies to every component of a childrens s

    product except for:product except for: Inaccessible components andInaccessible components and CPSC determined compliant components:CPSC determined compliant components:

    TextilesTextiles WoodWood precious metals (gold, sterling silver)precious metals (gold, sterling silver) precious gemstones (ruby, sapphire, emerald), pearls, precious gemstones (ruby, sapphire, emerald), pearls,

    etc. etc.

  • Phthalate StandardPhthalate Standard Footwear & Most Apparel & Footwear & Most Apparel &

    Fashion Accessories Are ExemptFashion Accessories Are Exempt Phthalate Bans Applies to:Phthalate Bans Applies to:

    ChildrenChildrens toys that can be placed in s toys that can be placed in a childa childs mouths mouth

    Child care articlesChild care articles CPSIA Bans Six Types of CPSIA Bans Six Types of

    PhthalatesPhthalates DEHPDEHP DBPDBP BBPBBP DINPDINP DIDPDIDP DnOPDnOP

  • Tracking LabelsTracking Labels

    Purpose is to improve recallsPurpose is to improve recalls

    Purpose is to recall only Purpose is to recall only violativeviolative productproduct

    Product must have distinguishing mark to Product must have distinguishing mark to determine source of productdetermine source of product Batch #Batch # Run #Run # Other identifying characteristicsOther identifying characteristics

  • Third Party TestingThird Party Testing

    Stay of Enforcement to February 10, 2011Stay of Enforcement to February 10, 2011

    Required Now for Lead in PaintRequired Now for Lead in Paint

    Component testing for chemical Component testing for chemical standardsstandards Traceability required throughout supply Traceability required throughout supply

    chainchain

  • Reasonable Testing Reasonable Testing ProgramProgram

    Five elementsFive elements Product Product

    specificationspecification Certification testsCertification tests Production testing Production testing

    planplan Remedial action planRemedial action plan RecordkeepingRecordkeeping

  • State StandardsState Standards California Proposition 65California Proposition 65

    Exposure standard not a content standard like CPSIAExposure standard not a content standard like CPSIA

    Covers 850 chemicals Covers 850 chemicals NOT JUST LEAD AND PHTHALATESNOT JUST LEAD AND PHTHALATES CadmiumCadmium

    ChromiumChromium

    FormaldehydeFormaldehyde

    Warning label requirement for all productsWarning label requirement for all products This product contains This product contains chemicalschemicals known to the State of California to known to the State of California to

    cause cancer, or birth defects or other reproductive harm.cause cancer, or birth defects or other reproductive harm.

    Regulations by litigationRegulations by litigation Settlements average at $123,000. Settlements include standards Settlements average at $123,000. Settlements include standards and/or warning and/or warning

    label requirementslabel requirements

    Illinois Lead Warning Label LawIllinois Lead Warning Label Law Warning Label Requirement forWarning Label Requirement for

    ChildrenChildrens painted toyss painted toys

    Child care articles intended to be placed in the mouthChild care articles intended to be placed in the mouth

    ChildrenChildrens jewelrys jewelry

    Other States Other States Washington State, Maine, ColoradoWashington State, Maine, Colorado

  • Prop 65 NoticesProp 65 NoticesSelected Prop 60 Day Notices

    0

    10

    20

    30

    40

    50

    60

    70

    80

    2007 2008 2009 2010 (Year to Date)

    Year

    Lead or Lead Compounds Phthalates Other

  • February 10, 2011:February 10, 2011: Testing and certification stay Testing and certification stay

    lifted for lead substratelifted for lead substrate

    February 14, 2011:February 14, 2011: Database implementedDatabase implemented

    August 14, 2011:August 14, 2011: Lead limit dropped again to Lead limit dropped again to

    100ppm (retroactive) unless the 100ppm (retroactive) unless the CPSC determines not CPSC determines not technologically feasible technologically feasible

    WhatWhats Coming s Coming Up?Up?

  • What is on the Product What is on the Product Safety Horizon?Safety Horizon?

    New Leadership and New Leadership and resources at CPSCresources at CPSC

    CPSEACPSEA Heavy metal regulations Heavy metal regulations

    (cadmium is this (cadmium is this seasonseasons new lead)s new lead)

    Other state regulationsOther state regulations

  • 39

    ProductSafetyCompliance

    WhereWeAre?WhereWeAreGoing?

    AndreLeroy5/6/10

  • WhereWeAre?

    40

    ImportantProductSafetyIssuesMattel:Recall9millionitemsrecalled:9Milk inChina:Melamineissue: ChineseSofas: thousandsofpeopleinUKdeveloped allergies tosomechemicals:

  • WhereWeAre?

    41

    Concernsaboutenvironment Bad chemicalsfoundinriversinEurope BannedfromproductioninEuropeforyears Comefromchemicalsusedinimportedgoods Thereforeneedtomonitorchemicalsusedincludingimports

  • WhereWeAre?

    42

    SubstanceofVeryHighConcern (SVHC) Listgetslonger RighttoKnow:ImporterstoEuropeneedtoanswerquestionsfromconsumers(NGOs) withinalimitedperiod

    REACH (Europe)

  • REACh Challenges?

    43

    Latestupdate:6countriesinEuropehavedecidedthattheywillapplythe0,1%limittothecomponentsandnottothearticle,soSVHCabovethe0.1%withinacomponentwouldhavetobedeclared.:6SVHC0.1%,,SVHC0.1%,.

    REACH (Europe)

  • REACh Challenges?

    44

    UpcomingSVHC? SVHC?ItisimportanttoanticipateupcomingSVHCSVHCWedothisthroughSmartTestingScreening ProbabilitytofindtheseSVHCincomponentsSVHC AssessmentoftheneededtoxicologicalpropertiestobeaSVHCSVHC

    Probablyforthischemicaltobeincludedinthecandidatelist

    ImmediatestartingofchemicalsubstitutionprogramsorprocesschangestoeliminatethesubstancetoavoidanyREACh conflictsandrecalls,SVHC

    REACH (Europe)

  • REACh Challenges?

    45

    About120SVHCcandidatesarepossible120About5to10candidatesbyproducttypeasapriorities510Afewofthemwillbeachallengeforsubstitution(timeline,cost,quality,safety)(,,,)

    REACH (Europe)

  • REACh Challenges?

    46

    Watchout:Beingbelow0.1%limitdoesnotmeansafeproductsAbove0.1%limitdoesnotmeanunsafeproducts0.1%,0.1%

    Ourlimitsarebasedonriskbasedsafeproducts/componentlimits./ThisalreadypreventedProductRecallsinEurope.

    REACH (Europe)

  • Wherearewegoing?

    47

    Restricted Substance List (RSL) are getting longer

    Major Brands / Retailers anticipate the laws and ban chemicals before they are forbidden by law > even longer RSL

  • WhatIsInItForYou?

    48

    Consequences for you?

    Concerns about cost?

    How to minimize additional costs?

  • WhatIsInItForYou?

    49

    1) Chooseyourmarkets:

    SomemajorsmarketshaverelativelylowProductSafetyrequirementsforchemicals:Australia,SouthAmerica,MiddleEast,;,,

  • WhatIsInItForYou?

    50

    2)Chooseyourcustomers:

    Somecustomersrelyondeclarationsignedbymanufacturers. DoesitprotecttheimporterstotheUSandEuropefroma

    legalpointofview??

    Expertisefromcutandsawmanufacturersintermofchemicalrequirements?

    - Somecustomershavehighexpectationsandassisttheirsupplierstoimprovetheirprocesses:exampleAFIRMtraining>usethissupporttodevelopthisintoacompetitiveadvantage.

  • WhatIsInItForYou?

    51

    3)Morefocusoncomponentcompliancemeans:

    Moresuppliersnomination

    Lesscompanieslookingforcheapercopiesoffabric

    Fightagainstfakefromreputabletrimsuppliers

  • WhatIsInItForYou?

    52

    BrandsRetailers

    Cut&SawManufacturers

    MillsSundriesSuppliers

    Benefitsformills/sundriessupplierswho: ComplywithextendedRSL Developpropertraceability Knowwhentotestandmostimportantlywhen nottotest, Haveinitiatedasubstitutionprogram

  • Getinvolved

    53

    Several leading Apparel & Footwear Brands, Retailers and Manufacturers met in Hong Kong end March to assess the potential to work together towards more alignment across companies in different areas including Product Safety requirements&,,,.

  • Getinvolved

    54

    Contact meAndre Leroy

    [email protected](852) 3604 1393

  • Understanding Government Product Safety Standards and Regulations

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Coffee BreakSponsored by Oeko-Tex

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Document Certification for Customs and Retail

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Consumer Product Safety Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008 Improvement Act of 2008

    Documentation & Compliance IssuesDocumentation & Compliance Issues20082008

    AAFA CHINA SEMINARS: May 6 & 11AAFA CHINA SEMINARS: May 6 & 11, 2010, 2010: 2010: 20105566&11&11

    Andrew B. Schroth, Esq. Andrew B. Schroth, Esq. Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    No. 9 QueenNo. 9 Queens Road Central, Suite 2407, Hong Kongs Road Central, Suite 2407, Hong KongTel.: +852Tel.: +852--21372137--2700 2700 Fax: +852Fax: +852--21372137--27012701

    EE--mail: mail: [email protected]@gdlsk.com

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    CPSIA OverviewCPSIA Overview

    Consumer Product Safety Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008 Improvement Act of 2008 ((CPSIACPSIA) ) signed into law on signed into law on August 14, 2008.August 14, 2008.20082008 -- 20082008881414

    CPSIA is geared towards CPSIA is geared towards children's products but imposes children's products but imposes a a compliance certification compliance certification requirementrequirement for for any productany productwhich is subject to which is subject to any consumer any consumer

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    General ruleGeneral rule An ADULT product that is subject to a CPSC An ADULT product that is subject to a CPSC

    rule/regulation requires a general compliance rule/regulation requires a general compliance certification based on a certification based on a reasonable testingreasonable testing programprogram / / ,,

    A CHILDRENA CHILDRENs product requires a certification based on s product requires a certification based on testing by an accredited 3testing by an accredited 3rdrd party lab (unless currently party lab (unless currently delayed)delayed),,

    Who must issue the certification?Who must issue the certification? ?? The importer (or domestic manufacturer)The importer (or domestic manufacturer)

    (()) Testing labs Testing labs cannotcannot certifycertify

    Manufacturers are usually requested to prepare this Manufacturers are usually requested to prepare this documentdocument

    COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTCOMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENT

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTCOMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENT

    Content of CertificatesContent of Certificates::

    1. Identification1. Identification of the product covered by the certificateof the product covered by the certificate

    Must describe the product in enough detail to Must describe the product in enough detail to match the certificate to the covered productmatch the certificate to the covered product

    2. 2. Citation to each CPSC product safety regulation to which Citation to each CPSC product safety regulation to which the product is being certifiedthe product is being certified

    It is not acceptable to issue a certification that It is not acceptable to issue a certification that offers only a offers only a general compliancegeneral compliance statement.statement., , ..

    3. 3. Identification of the U.S. importer certifying compliance of Identification of the U.S. importer certifying compliance of the productthe product

    Name, full mailing address and phoneName, full mailing address and phone, ,

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTCOMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENT

    Content of Certificates (continued)Content of Certificates (continued): : (())

    4. 4. Contact information for the individual maintaining records Contact information for the individual maintaining records of test resultsof test results

    Name, full mailing address, email and phoneName, full mailing address, email and phone, ,

    5.5. Date and place where the product was manufacturedDate and place where the product was manufactured

    Provide at least month and year; city and country or Provide at least month and year; city and country or administrative regionadministrative region; ;

    If same manufacturer operates more than one If same manufacturer operates more than one location in the same city, provide street address of location in the same city, provide street address of the factorythe factory, ,

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTCOMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENT

    Content of Certificates (continued)Content of Certificates (continued):: (())

    6.6. Date and place where the product was tested for Date and place where the product was tested for compliance with the regulation(s) cited abovecompliance with the regulation(s) cited above

    Date of test reports and location of testingDate of test reports and location of testing

    7.7. Identification of any thirdIdentification of any third--party laboratory on whose party laboratory on whose testing the certificate dependstesting the certificate depends

    If third party lab was used, give name, full mailing If third party lab was used, give name, full mailing address and phone of lab.address and phone of lab., , , ,

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTCOMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENT

    FormatFormat: There is currently no required format: There is currently no required format

    : :

    The certificate does not have to be signed by the The certificate does not have to be signed by the issuer(sissuer(s). Rather, ). Rather, the the act ofact of issuing the certificate satisfies the new law.issuing the certificate satisfies the new law., ,

    Whether hard copy or electronic Whether hard copy or electronic -- Must be created prior to arrival of Must be created prior to arrival of the shipment in question into U.S. domestic commerce.the shipment in question into U.S. domestic commerce.

    Avoid Avoid overcertifyingovercertifying.. e.g., including standards that are not e.g., including standards that are not applicable CPSC standardsapplicable CPSC standards. . ., ., ..

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTREQUIREMENT

    How must the certification be presented at time of importation?How must the certification be presented at time of importation??? Certification must Certification must accompanyaccompany each shipment each shipment

    which contains goods covered by CPSC standardswhich contains goods covered by CPSC standards, , MythsMyths

    Must be on or in the shipping cartonMust be on or in the shipping carton

    Must be filed with the GovernmentMust be filed with the Government

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    CERTIFICATION CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTREQUIREMENT

    Must be available to Customs/CPSC (if requested) as soon Must be available to Customs/CPSC (if requested) as soon as the product itself is available for inspection in the U.S.as the product itself is available for inspection in the U.S., , //(() )

    Electronic format permitted as long as CPSC has Electronic format permitted as long as CPSC has reasonable access to it and it contains all required reasonable access to it and it contains all required informationinformation , , CPSCCPSC, ,

    Reasonable Access? Reasonable Access? -- accessible via the internet and accessible via the internet and identified by a unique identifier which must be created in identified by a unique identifier which must be created in advance and be available with the shipment. advance and be available with the shipment. ? ? Internet, Internet,

    Provide electronic or hard copy to customs brokerProvide electronic or hard copy to customs broker

    Include hard copy with shipping documents, orInclude hard copy with shipping documents, or, ,

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    COMPLIANCE COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTREQUIREMENT

    CPSC and CBP may at some point provide for the electronic CPSC and CBP may at some point provide for the electronic filing of certificates up to 24 hours before arrival on an filing of certificates up to 24 hours before arrival on an imported product.imported product. 2424,,

    Importers must also furnish copy of certification to its Importers must also furnish copy of certification to its customers (distributors, retailers)customers (distributors, retailers) ((, , )) Provide a copy or reasonable means Provide a copy or reasonable means

    to access the certificateto access the certificate

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    RecordkeepingRecordkeeping

    CPSC currently recommends that importers CPSC currently recommends that importers maintain certifications and supporting test maintain certifications and supporting test records for at least 3 years (possibly 5 years if records for at least 3 years (possibly 5 years if it becomes a required U.S. Customs entry it becomes a required U.S. Customs entry document)document) ,,, , 33((, , 55))

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Delayed Enforcement of Certain Delayed Enforcement of Certain Compliance CertificationsCompliance Certifications

    The testing and certification requirements are being phased inThe testing and certification requirements are being phased in

    ChildrenChildrens Productss Products Certifications and testing by accredited 3rd party labs are currCertifications and testing by accredited 3rd party labs are currentlyently

    required for the following:required for the following:::

    1.1. Lead paint and surface coatings Lead paint and surface coatings --manufactured after 12/21/08 (lead manufactured after 12/21/08 (lead content content not until 2/10/11)not until 2/10/11) 08/12/2108/12/21 (( 2/10/11)2/10/11)

    2.2. Small parts regulations Small parts regulations --manufactured after 2/15/09manufactured after 2/15/09 09/2/1509/2/15

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Delayed Enforcement of Delayed Enforcement of Compliance CertificationsCompliance Certifications

    ImportantImportant: Although cert./testing is postponed for : Although cert./testing is postponed for

    certain standards, products are still required to comply certain standards, products are still required to comply with the underlying standard (e.g., flammability, total with the underlying standard (e.g., flammability, total lead content, phthalates, etc.).lead content, phthalates, etc.). ::, , ((., ., , , , , ))

    For various childrenFor various childrens standards, 3s standards, 3rdrd party testing and party testing and certification is delayed until 90 days after lab accreditation certification is delayed until 90 days after lab accreditation requirements are published, for examplerequirements are published, for example:: , , 9090, , ::

    Wearing apparel flammability (both adult and children)Wearing apparel flammability (both adult and children) (())

    Phthalates Phthalates 16 CFR 1610 16 CFR 1610 the clothing flammability the clothing flammability standard.standard. 16CFR1610 16CFR1610 --

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Avoiding Shipment Avoiding Shipment Delays at Entry PointsDelays at Entry Points Invoice descriptionsInvoice descriptions make sure make sure product description is accurateproduct description is accurate -- e.g.,e.g., whether for adults or children whether for adults or children if for children, what is the if for children, what is the

    intended age range.intended age range..,., , ,

    Properly classified under the HTS. Properly classified under the HTS. If misclassified under a If misclassified under a targetedtargetedHTS #, could result in additional HTS #, could result in additional unnecessary scrutiny. unnecessary scrutiny. HTSHTS. . HTS#HTS#

    If goods are detained or seized, If goods are detained or seized, must be proactive must be proactive , , , ,

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Consequences of NonConsequences of Non--ComplianceCompliance

    Goods will be refused entry and possibly Goods will be refused entry and possibly destroyed ifdestroyed if::, , ::

    No certification or nonNo certification or non--compliant certificationcompliant certification

    Product is tested by CPSC at time of entry and Product is tested by CPSC at time of entry and failsfailsCPSCCPSC It may be possible to obtain release under bond if It may be possible to obtain release under bond if

    the importer is able to recondition the product to the importer is able to recondition the product to bring into compliance (e.g., replace buttons on shirt bring into compliance (e.g., replace buttons on shirt which contain lead).which contain lead)., , ((.,.,))

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Consequences of NonConsequences of Non--ComplianceCompliance

    If nonIf non--compliant product is found at retailcompliant product is found at retail:::: Will likely result in a product recallWill likely result in a product recall

    If company had actual knowledge or notice, If company had actual knowledge or notice,

    criminal penaltiescriminal penalties, ,

    Must have Must have CPSCCPSCss permission to export, only to permission to export, only to correct deficiency, cannot sell to 3correct deficiency, cannot sell to 3rdrd countries!countries!CPSCCPSC, ,

    NonNon--Resident Importers of RecordResident Importers of Record (DDP sales) (DDP sales) treated as US Importertreated as US Importer(DDP(DDP) )

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Consequences of NonConsequences of Non--ComplianceCompliance

    Civil PenaltiesCivil Penalties

    New Penalties amounts effective New Penalties amounts effective 8/14/098/14/09 09/8/1409/8/14

    Increased to $100,000 (up from Increased to $100,000 (up from $5,000) for each violation$5,000) for each violation , , $100,000 ($100,000 ($5,000$5,000))

    Maximum of $15,000,000 in total Maximum of $15,000,000 in total violations (up from $1,250,000). violations (up from $1,250,000). $15,000,000($15,000,000($1,250,000$1,250,000))

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Consequences of NonConsequences of Non--Compliance Compliance

    Criminal Penalties: Knowing and Willful Criminal Penalties: Knowing and Willful ConductConduct

    Increased finesIncreased fines Imprisonment up to 5 years Imprisonment up to 5 years 55 Ability to seek asset forfeiture for assets Ability to seek asset forfeiture for assets

    associated with the criminal violationassociated with the criminal violation

    Can be imposed for:Can be imposed for: :: failure to issue a required certification, or failure to issue a required certification, or

    to issue a false or misleading certificationto issue a false or misleading certification, ,

    misrepresenting the scope of a product misrepresenting the scope of a product recallrecall

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Consequences of NonConsequences of Non--ComplianceCompliance

    Examples of Prohibited Acts under the CPSAExamples of Prohibited Acts under the CPSACPSA CPSA

    Import into the U.S. a product Import into the U.S. a product that is not in conformity with a that is not in conformity with a CPSC rule, regulation, CPSC rule, regulation, standard, or banstandard, or ban CPSACPSA, ,

    Fail to furnish a certificate, or Fail to furnish a certificate, or issue a false certificateissue a false certificate , ,

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    What Should a Producer/Exporter Do Now?What Should a Producer/Exporter Do Now?//??

    Know Your CPSC Requirements In Advance:Know Your CPSC Requirements In Advance:CPSACPSA::

    Determine the following or ask for CPSC advice:Determine the following or ask for CPSC advice:::

    Is my product a childrenIs my product a childrens product?s product? ?? What CPSC standards apply to my products?What CPSC standards apply to my products?

    CPSACPSA?? Do I need to test my product/use a 3Do I need to test my product/use a 3rdrd party lab?party lab?

    ?? Do I need a compliance certification?Do I need a compliance certification?

    ??

    Consider amending terms and conditions to limit Consider amending terms and conditions to limit liability on this issue with buyers/importers (hold liability on this issue with buyers/importers (hold harmless, indemnification agreements)harmless, indemnification agreements)//, , ((, , ))

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    What Should a Producer/Exporter Do Now?What Should a Producer/Exporter Do Now?//??

    Identify the standards that apply to the CompanyIdentify the standards that apply to the Companys s productsproducts

    Understand the requirementsUnderstand the requirementslevels, effective levels, effective dates, testing and certification requirementsdates, testing and certification requirements, , , ,

    Create a program for implementation: Create a program for implementation: :: Incorporate CPSC standards during product Incorporate CPSC standards during product

    development stagedevelopment stage CPSCCPSC Quality assurance programQuality assurance program

    Screen raw materials for lead paint, content and Screen raw materials for lead paint, content and flammabilityflammability , ,

    Request product information from material suppliers Request product information from material suppliers and seek out compliant materialsand seek out compliant materials

    Certification and testing programCertification and testing program

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    What Should a Producer/Exporter Do Now?What Should a Producer/Exporter Do Now?//??

    Adopt procedures for handling nonAdopt procedures for handling non--compliant inventorycompliant inventory

    Adopt a recall policy Adopt a recall policy criticalcritical

    Adopt procedures for communicating Adopt procedures for communicating with and challenging with and challenging CPSC/Customs with regard to CPSC/Customs with regard to seized goodsseized goods, , CPSC/CPSC/

  • Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLP

    Questions?Questions?Andrew B. Schroth, Esq.Andrew B. Schroth, Esq.

    Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPGrunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt LLPNo. 9 QueenNo. 9 Queens Road Centrals Road Central

    Suite 2407Suite 2407Hong KongHong Kong

    Tel.: +852Tel.: +852--21372137--27002700Fax: +852Fax: +852--21372137--27012701

    EE--mail: mail: [email protected]@gdlsk.com

  • Document Document Certification for Certification for

    Customs and RetailCustoms and Retail

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • LunchSponsored by Micro-Pak Ltd. And

    Thermo Fisher Niton Analyzers

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Case Study: Non-Compliance: What is the Cost to the Factory the Workers, the Brand, the Consumer

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Hennes & Mauritz

  • Non Compliance

    What is the cost of Factory, Workers, Brand/ Consumers

    Albert Liu

    Quality Assurance Manager - H&M Hong Kong

    May, 2010

  • Contents Facts about H&M Chemical Restriction & Legislation Non compliance, what is the cost? How to secure a good quality? What is the benefits?

  • Facts About H&M International Clothing Retailer Established in Sweden in 1947 More than 2000 stores over 37 countries Over 76,000 employees Around 700 suppliers in 16 production offices The turnover in 2009 was SEK 118 billion

  • Fashion and Quality at the Best Price

  • QUALTY ASSURANCEFacts about H&M

    Quality Standards

    Chemical Restrictions

    Color Standards

    Label content

  • Legislation EU

    Legislation REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals)

    USA California Proposition 65 CPSIA (Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act)

    Japan Law 112 (Law for the control of household products

    containing harmful substances)

    China GB 18401-2003 (National general safety technical code for

    textile products)

  • H&M Chemical Restrictions (RSL)

    List of restricted chemicals Implementation Toolkits Follow most stringent

    legislations & restricted chemicals of concern

    Frequent review & update Dye stuffs, pesticides, heavy

    metals, formaldehyde, APEO, PVC, phthalates etc

  • Restricted Chemical listsH&M Chemical Restrictions

  • Are all parties following the legislation?

  • Non compliance what is the cost?

    Workers Environment Customers Garment manufacturer Brand

  • Workers Cost of Non Compliance?

  • EnvironmentCost of Non Compliance?

  • CustomerCost of Non Compliance?

  • CustomerCost of Non Compliance?

  • Brand Cost of Non Compliance?

    Children jackets as poisonous as harbour waste sludgeGerman newspaper Hamburg Morgen Post 23 October 2001

    Hormone disruptors in Children-Rainwear

  • Brand Cost of Non Compliance?

    November 2005

    Adidas and H&M are best

  • Brand & SupplierCost of Non Compliance?

    T-shirt in organic cotton

    Lost sales: >300 000 USD

    Fail Phthalates in Print

  • Cr VI in Leather

    Leather jacket

    Lost sales: >350 000 USD

    Brand & SupplierCost for Non Compliance?

  • How to secure a good quality?

    Production ProcessFactory AuditCommunication

  • GarmentButton

    Zipper

    Sequin

    Accessories

    Wet processing

    Spinning

    Knitting

    Weaving

    WashingFibre

    Oil

    Size

    Dyes

    Auxiliaries

    Print paste

    Pigment

    Plastic

    Metal

    Synthetic fibre

    Natural fibreDetergents

    Bleach

    Production ProcessHow to secure good quality?

  • Audit for H&M Chemical Restrictions Document check Certificates compliance from Chemical manufacturers Test reports

    Audit for chemical handling MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) Labelled chemical containers Correct storage etc.

    Chemical waste disposal Waste water Left over chemicals

    Customer/Environment

    Worker

    Environment

    Factory AuditHow to secure good quality?

  • Factory Audit How to secure good quality?

  • H&M

    SUPPLIER

    Chemical restrictions (RSL)

    SUB CONTRACTOR

    DYER

    PRINTER

    TANNER

    CHEMICAL

    MANUFACTURER

    CommunicationHow to secure good quality?

    Compliance declaration

  • Lack of Communication/Information

    APEO in Cotton fabric

    Reason: Scouring agent contained APEO

    Action: Called chemical supplier and asked for confirmation and APEO-free alternative

    Time needed: 5 min

    Cost: almost nothing

    BUT nobody asked the question before

  • Lead in Polyurethane (PU) coated fabric (rainwear)

    Reason: PU manufacturer received incomplete RSL from garment maker: PVC and phthalates not heavy metals

    Action: Give complete restrictions list

    Time needed: 5 min Cost: almost nothing

    Lack of Communication/Information

  • CommunicationHow to secure good quality?

    Flow of information through out the supply chain Clarity of what is required How Implement it Test / follow up

    Cooperation AFIRM AAFA Chemical supplier 3rd party testing lab

  • What is the Benefits? Workers working conditions Environmental impact Production Leadtime Reduce testing cost/ claim Better Quality

  • Thank you

  • Case Study: Non-Compliance: What is the Cost to the Factory the Workers, the Brand, the Consumer

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Chemically-Compliant Supply Chains

    &Corporate Restricted

    Substances Listsc

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • 2009

    Corporate Restricted Substances Lists - Levi Strauss & Co.

    Kitty Man

  • 2009 116

    Content

    Levi Strauss & Co. RSL recent changes Working with suppliers - meeting LS&Co. RSL Documents needed for RSL management AAFAs RSL and AFIRMs toolkit

  • 2009 117

    Levi Strauss & Co. RSLWhy and what?

    Global standard on chemicals on products or used in production

    Laws and regulations GB 18401 CPSIA REACH

    Protect workers and consumers Environmental initiatives Brands, eco-labels and AAFA (American Apparel and

    Footwear Association) etc

  • 2009

    Working with suppliers - meeting LS&Co. RSL

  • 2009 119

    Working with Suppliers - Meeting LS&Co. RSL Areas to focus

    Human Behavior Raw Material Management Chemical Management Production Processes

    Robust factory RSL management systems is needed.

  • 2009 120

    Working with Suppliers - Meeting LS&Co. RSL Areas to focus - Human Behavior

    Read the RSL and Toolkit Education / Communication

    All staff, with focus on: Material / chemical purchaser Production manager Chemical room manager anyone that touches chemicals

    Your Supply Chain

    Connect with LS&Co. Product Safety TeamTake away # 1

    2-way communications.

  • 2009 121

    Working with Suppliers - Meeting LS&Co. RSL Areas to focus - Raw Material Management

    Know what you purchase Type of material Chance for failure

    Source of raw material Reputable supplier Small corner shop

    Assurance from supplier Test reports, eco labels, declarations Recent date, valid test method, same material

  • 2009 122

    Working with Suppliers - Meeting LS&Co. RSL Areas to focus - Raw Material Management

    Follow testing requirements Proactive internal random testing Understand potential failures for each type of material

    and test accordingly Example: Natural Fibres - azo dyes

    Maintain a comprehensive understanding of your raw material to minimize failure risk.

    Take away # 2Know what you are buying.

  • 2009 123

    Working with Suppliers - Meeting LS&Co. RSL Areas to focus - Chemical Management

    Chemicals include: Dyestuff and colorants Printing inks and binders Detergent, fixing agents, softeners Chemicals for special finishing (wrinkle free / easy care) Adhesives and solvents

    If the chemical company dont know what theyre selling, dont buy their chemical.

  • 2009 124

    Working with Suppliers - Meeting LS&Co. RSL Areas to focus - Chemical Management

    Chemical purchase price is not the only factor when selecting chemicals

    $1.20$1.25Price per garment

    8 grams25 gramsUsage per garment

    $150/kg$50/kgPrice

    BAChemical

  • 2009 125

    Working with Suppliers - Meeting LS&Co. RSL Areas to focus - Chemical Management

    In-house chemical management Maintain a current chemical

    inventory Label and segregate all chemical

    containers properly Cover all containers avoid spillage

    and contamination Obtain assurance from chemical

    company Document and maintain formulations

  • 2009 126

    Working with Suppliers - Meeting LS&Co. RSL Areas to focus - Production Processes

    Document chemical formulations Document production conditions

    Drying temperature/duration

    Regular calibration of equipment Appropriate chemical use

    Dying, printing, finishing

    Comprehensive documentation Technical Data Sheets (TDS) Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS)

  • 2009 127

    Documents needed for RSL management

    RSL Training log Material/chemical inventory list Test reports / certification from suppliers Bill of material Recipes Machine calibration record Production process control variables Etc

  • 2009

    AFIRM Toolkit

  • 2009 129

    129

    RSL Management System

    RSL Toolkit

    www.afirm-group.com

  • 2009 130

    AFIRM Toolkit Contents

    Introduction Restricted Substance List (RSL) Where are the risks? Educate the Supply Chain RSL Testing RSL Implementation Links to brand RSLs Appendices

    www.afirm-group.com

  • 2009 131

    Successful Manufacturers

    Understand restrictions Understand what you are doing Setup in-house RSL team Ensure thorough communication and engagement

    throughout supply chain Maintain chemical inventory list Document the formulation / recipe Ensure controls are in place Be transparent Take ownership

  • 132AAFAAAFA

    American Apparel & Footwear Association

    Establishing a Chemically Establishing a Chemically Compliant Supply Chain Compliant Supply Chain

    Dongguan Dongguan May 06May 06

    Hangzhou Hangzhou May 11May 11

  • AAFAAAFA

    HBI Chemical Management

    ObjectivesRegulatory ComplianceEmployee SafetyConsumer ProtectionReduced Product Testing

  • AAFAAAFA

    The System HBI Owned Locations

    Chemical Approval SystemAll Chemicals Must Receive Corporate Approval Prior to Purchase

    The Approval ProcessReduce Wastewater PollutantsEliminate Hazardous Waste GenerationMinimize Air PollutantsAccurate Regulatory ReportingImprove Employee Chemical SafetyManage Chemicals in Consumer Products

  • AAFAAAFA

    The System HBI Owned Locations

    Maintain Electronic Corporate Database of Approved Chemicals by Facility/Department

    All Chemicals Must be Approved Prior to PurchaseScreen all chemicals for compliance prior to use or

    integration into product design and/or manufacturing

    Standardize chemical management systems in all manufacturing plants

    Continuous improvement to more sustainable chemistries

  • AAFAAAFA

    The System Supply Chain

    Contract/Purchase Order Language includes Compliance with Restricted Substance List(s)

    Certification of Compliance has been Required when Mandated by Law

    Assistance was Provided to Supply Chain Facilities Upon Request

  • AAFAAAFA

    The System Supply Chain

    A Third Party Chemical Audit Program Has Been Implemented

    ChinaThailandTaiwanBangladeshHondurasUSA

  • AAFAAAFA

    The Audit

    The First Audit is Financed by HBI Chemicals used for HBI product and all other production chemicals on site will be reviewed

    FindingsAll findings are confidentialIf a regulated chemical is found on HBI products, replacement must be immediate

    There will be an evaluation of existing products and liabilitiesHBI will assist in locating alternative chemicals

    If a regulated chemical is discovered, but not in use on HBI products, it will be referenced in the report in order to assist the facility in its chemical management

  • AAFAAAFA

    The Audit

    Subsequent AuditsAt facility expenseUse of restricted chemicals on HBI product will result in immediate loss of the contract

  • AAFAAAFA

    The System - Chemical Suppliers

    HBI Reduced the Number of Process Chemical Suppliers from Greater than 65 to 12

    Partnerships Have Been Established with Preferred Dye and Chemical Suppliers

    Demonstrated Chemical ExpertiseRegulatory KnowledgeRecognition of Restricted SubstancesExisting Chemical Management SystemsTransparency

  • AAFAAAFA

    Supply Chain Classification - Developing

    Fabric Mills are Divided into Tiers Based on Chemical Management Systems

    Tier IWell Established Chemical ManagementUse only HBI Preferred Chemical SuppliersThe Tier I Guidelines

    Third party chemical audits every three years (HBI cost)Limited compliance testing (Factory Cost)Preferred supplier status

  • AAFAAAFA

    Supply Chain Classification - Developing

    Tier IIWell defined Chemical ManagementUse of Preferred Chemical Suppliers for HBI Products but Chemicals are on Site from Non-Preferred Chemical SuppliersThe Tier II Guidelines

    Third party chemical audits every two years (Factory Cost)Increased compliance testing (Factory Cost)Second in chain of preferred supplier status

  • AAFAAAFA

    Supply Chain Classification - Developing

    Tier IIIUse chemicals with unsubstantiated compliance in the HBI chemical management system

    Third party chemical audits six to twelve months (Factory Cost)Aggressive compliance testing (Factory Cost)Lowest level of supplier status

  • AAFAAAFA

    Supply Chain & Preferred Chemical Suppliers

    Efforts are in Process to Use the Combined Dye and Chemical Usages of HBI and its Supply Chain to Negotiate Reduced Costs with the Preferred Dye and Chemical Suppliers

  • AAFAAAFA

    AAFA and Industry Approaches

    The AAFA Restricted Substance ListA Goal of One Standardized Global RSL for

    the IndustryDeveloped by a Group of Industry Experts

    ManufacturingRetailTesting LabsCertification Companies

  • AAFAAAFA

    AAFA and Industry Approaches

    Updated Semi-AnnuallyVersion 6 Released in February 2010Version 7 to be Released in September 2010

    Value and Rationale for Using AAFA RSL

  • AAFAAAFA

    The AAFA List

    The StructureChemicals with Regulatory Concentration LimitsGlobal Regulatory ReferenceReferences Regulations With Exposure or Contact Limitations by Reference

    New RegulationsTwo Appendices

    Government Required LabelingGovernment Required Reporting

  • AAFAAAFA

    The AAFA List

    Chemical Management Seminars

    FREE !FREE !

    http://www.apparelandfootwear.org/Resources/RestrictedSubstances.asp

  • AAFAAAFA

    RSL Tool Kit

    AFIRM

    http://afirm-group.com/supplierstool.htm

    AAFATool kit for use by smaller companies with limited resources IN DEVELOPMENT

  • Chemical Management

    and Compliance in Esquel

    by Yugao Zhang

    May 2010

  • Chemicals used in Esquel

    Synthetic fibre

    Natural fibre

    AccessoriesButton

    Label

    Package

    Dyes

    Auxiliaries

    Chemicals

    Pigment

    Plastic

    Metal

    Wet processingLoose fibre dyeing

    Yarn dyeing

    Piece dyeing

    Garment dyeing

    Washing

    GarmentYarn

    Heather YarnSpinning

    FabricKnitting

    Weaving

    Detergents

    Softeners

    Dyes

    Auxiliaries

    Chemicals

    Pigment

    Plastic

    Metal

    Wet processingLoose fibre dyeing

    Yarn dyeing

    Piece dyeing

    Garment dyeing

    Washing

    GarmentYarn

    Heather YarnSpinning

    FabricKnitting

    Weaving

    Detergents

    Softeners

  • Chemical Management Procedure

    Global Legislation

    REACH

    CPSC

    California Proposition 65

    Japan Law 112

    Customers RSL Requirement

    Esquel Chemical

    Management system

    Require Suppliers and Subcontracts guarantee the

    RSL compliance

    Esquel products compliant with legislations and

    customers requirement

    Esquel identified and eliminated the RSL

    substances

    Esquel RSL

  • Chemical Management Procedure

    Supplier Selection Criteria Internationally operated company or well known large scale local

    company

    Good record of environmental protection should meet local environmental protection law and regulations

    Be able to provide complete documents on chemical product and safety, e.g. Product technical instruction, MSDS and testing report

    Confirmation letter to Esquels RSL

    For dyestuff, the supplier should be a ETAD member

  • Chemical Management ProcedureApproval Process

    First Step: Must provide documents before trial TDS

    MSDS

    Confirmation Letter

    Second Step: Approval for trial

    Third Step: Monitoring testing

    Final approval: Approval to use in production

    Management: Issued chemical management policy across all manufacturing divisions and operated in line with ISO14001

    Updating Esquel RSL

    Approval Record

    Documentation

  • Product Management

    Final product Certificate - Okeo-Tex 100 Certificate

    Yarns, Fabrics and Garments

    Product testing against RSL

    Sample developing: Third party testing

    Bulk: Third party monitoring testing initiated by Customers

    and Esquel, such as AZO, heavy metal, phthalates

    Chemical Management Procedure

  • Esquel RSL and Certificate

    Esquel Supplier RSL Declaration

    Chemical Management Procedure

  • RSL

    Main Chemicals in RSL

    Azo dyes Disperse Dyes Sensitizing Chromium VI Heavy Metals Pentachlorophenol Phthalates Organotin APEO Formaldehyde

  • 160

    Thank you!

  • Chemically-Compliant Supply Chains

    &Corporate Restricted

    Substances Lists

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Coffee BreakSponsored by

    IntertekHangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • Understanding Testing When to Test, How to Test, What to Test

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • From Application Form to Report

    Dr. Jane JiangSoftline Technical Director (Asia Pacific)

    SGS-CSTC Standards Technical Services (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

    Email: [email protected]

    11 May, 2010

    ------ How to Achieve RS Control and Quality Improvement through the Lab Testing

  • 165

    Outline

    Process flow of testing How to test QA and QC lab programs Reporting

  • 166

    Quality Management and PDCA Circle

    Testing is not target and answer Important part of the quality systems Feedback from testing result Continuous Improvement

    Build quality into system

    Testing

  • 167

    Process Flow of Testing

    Samples in Sample review & breakdownSample cutting

    / weighing

    Extraction / DigestionInstrument analysis

    Record test data + comments

    Issue draft report Report reviewed by authorized personnelSend test report

    to client

    Application form & contract review

    Method

    Matrix

    Sample

  • 168

    Outline

    Process flow of testing How to test QA and QC lab programs Reporting

  • 169

    Selection of Test Parameters

    Regulatory-based testing matrices Product category End-market

    Common market requirements End-buyer RSL programs Product safety Production process

    Tailored tests Special request from clients

  • 170

    Application of Different Test Methods

    Regulations that specified the test methodse.g. Nickel release, Azo dyes, CPSIA

    International / National test standardse.g. ISO, EN, DIN, ASTM, etc

    In-house methods When there is no official method available,

    laboratory may use its own method after thorough research and validation of the method.

    Tailored methods Special request by clients / end buyers.

    E.g. for sample with bad smell or cause any allergenic reaction

  • 171

    Sampling

    Homogeneous material It is necessary as per legal or buyer requirement And hence, test sample should be separated into

    the lowest homogeneous level

    Individual / Composite test All legal requirement is based on Individual test

    result Composite test is an cost effective-risk balance

    approach, by mixing 3 of components in 1 test At the same time, increase of deviation in test

    result may result due to the influence of matrix and dilution effect

    For some test parameters such as Chromium (VI), pH value composite is not allowed due to the interference from sample matrix in the mixture

  • 172

    Sampling

    Sample amount Different chemical tests required different amount

    of sample It depends on the sample pre-treatment, analytical

    technique and the legal requirement

    Insufficient sample With less sample amount, it will also reduce the

    accuracy of test result In worst situation, testing cannot be performed

    when the sample is less than the minimum amount

    Client may be requested for additional sample

  • 173

    Outline

    Process of testing How to test QA and QC lab programs Reporting

  • 174

    QA & QC Lab Program

    Accreditation against ISO/IEC 17025 Within the lab

    Personnel Systematic training to the staff Only qualified staff is allowed to carry out the testing

    Quality control during routine testinge.g. calibration curve, calibration check, spikes, blank, Certified Reference Materials (CRMs) etc

    Per batch of samples / Every 1-in-20 / cover all samples tested

    Records Quality control chart/ QC data to monitor

    performance Training record to ensure the professionalism of

    staffs Regular instrument calibration and maintenance

    programs

  • 175

    QA & QC Lab Program

    External Proficiency-testing programs

    e.g. IIS, CHEK, FAPAS, LGC etc Inter-laboratory correlation exercise

    Audit External audit by accreditation bodies

    e.g. HOKLAS, DAkkS, CNAS Internal audit

    Global platform for internal alignment Technical alignment with affiliates Global SOPs, report templates, guideline etc Frequent workshops/meetings among the affiliates

  • 176

    Outline

    Process of testing How to test QA and QC lab programs Reporting

  • 177

    Reporting How to Read a Report

    Client information

    Overall results

    Result for each individual

    parameters

  • 178

    Reporting How to Read a Report

    Test result for each component

    Description of test method

    Component list

    Special note of testing, e.g. DL

  • 179

    Quality Management and PDCA Circle

    Testing is not target and answer Important part of the quality systems Feedback from testing result Continuous Improvement

    Build quality into system

    Testing

  • Dr. Jean-Pierre Haug, COO, TESTEX Swiss Textile Testing Institute, Zrich

    Understanding Testing: At the Factory

    International Product Safety & Restricted Substances Conference

    5 May in Dongguan, 11 May in Hangzhou

  • Topics

    Testing at what stage, also raw materials? How to avoid contamination RSL management, communication with

    suppliers, processing of non-compliant input

    Communication within supply-chain

  • Typical Supply Chain(1 single test, responsibility at the fiber production)

    625

    125

    25

    5

    1

    5

    160000

    8000

    400

    20

    1

    20

    10000

    1000

    100

    10

    1

    10

    16

    8

    4

    2

    1

    2

    Apparel industry

    Dyehouse

    Fabric producer

    Yarn producer

    Fiber producer

    Supplier

    Testin

    g at a

    n earl

    y stag

    e save

    s mone

    y!

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1number of clients

  • Who is responsible for what?

    Fibre producer:

    Master Batch(Pb, Phthalates?)

    Spinning oils(PAHs?)

    Pesticides, heavy metals

    Polymerisation(Heavy metals, monomers?)

  • Who is responsible for what?

    Yarn producer:

    Reviving agents(PAHs?)

    Waxes

  • Who is responsible for what?

    Fabric producer:

    Warp-Sizing(Active chemical

    products, chlorinated

    phenols, i.e. PCP and similar?)

    Bonding of non-woven(Formaldehyde?)

  • Who is responsible for what?

    Dyehouse/Finishing:

    Colouring(banned azo colorants, sensitizing colorants,

    heavy metals,chlorinated

    benzenes/toluenes, phthalates, )

    Finishing(heavy metals,

    chlorinated phenols/benzenes/toluenes

    phthalates, fluorinated substances, )

  • Sewing thread

    Labels

    Accessories

    Lining

    Fabric

    Who is responsible for what?

    Apparel industry:

  • Avoid cross-contamination

    Sources of contamination:

    Use of contaminated chemicals/dyes/auxiliaries (Problem of supplier) make them aware of restricted substances

    Improper machine maintenance (cleaning between production batches)

    Packaging of produced materials / testing samples Dont forget transport conservation (dimethylfumarate)!

  • RSL management Make all of your suppliers (raw materials, chemicals, dyes,

    auxiliaries, accessories) aware of your needs Encourage/commit your suppliers to be part of an existing

    certification network: for example Oeko-Tex for textiles (also for intermediate products and accessories), Eco-Passport for chemicals/colorants/auxiliaries

    Validate the certification scheme: Do you know exactly what the scope of the certification is (transparency, quality control

    measures)?

  • Supply chain communication Ask your supplier for any valuable information (MSDS,

    specific statement about restricted substances, test reports) Validate this information Set up your own testing scheme/program (based on a true

    and fair risk/knowledge assessment) Communicate open and truthfully with your buyers about

    your own product (What are the characteristics? Where are potential problems? What has been tested? When/on which sample? What has not been tested why not?)

    OR

    Make you and your suppliers part of a net-work having a uniform and easy communication tool (for example Oeko-Texcertificates). In an unbroken certification chain along the supply chain enormous amount of testing costs can be saved!

  • Unbroken certification chain(again the same single test influenced by the fiber production)

    625

    125

    25

    5

    1

    5

    160000

    8000

    400

    20

    1

    20

    10000

    1000

    100

    10

    1

    10

    16

    8

    4

    2

    1

    2

    Apparel industry

    Dyehouse

    Fabric producer

    Yarn producer

    Fiber producer

    Supplier

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1number of clients

    Each member of the supply chain takes over responsibility for his own sector!

    0 0 0 00

    0 0 0 00

    0 0 0 00

    0 0 0 00

  • Sewing thread

    Labels

    Accessories

    Lining

    Fabric

    Making-up using certified components!

    Apparel industry:

    No additional tests are necessary!

  • Angelina Jolie and Vivien arriving at the Narita International Airport in Tokyo on the 27th of January 2009.

    As seen in numerous newspapers and web-sites all over the world (for example www.celebuzz.com)

    00-091 IFP Research AB Mlndal

    Thank y

    ou for y

    our

    kind att

    ention

  • AAFA Seminar

    Understanding Testing on the ProductWhen to Test, How to Test, What to Test

    May 2010, Dongguan & Hangzhou

    STR Testing & Inspection AGDr. Anne Bonhoff

  • Certification and Eco Labels

    Certification refers to the confirmation of certain characteristics. This confirmation is often, but not always, provided by some form of external review, education, or assessment.

    Product certification is the process of certifying that a certain product meets minimum standards. The qualification requirements are stipulated e.g. in regulations, certification requirements, RSL.

  • Certification and Eco Labels

    ECO Labels: Certify products and services that are kinder to the environment

    What is behind these labels which requirements needed to be fulfilled?

    What do they mean?

    etc. etc.

  • RSL Requirements

    Each Eco Label stands for specific requirements which had to be fulfilled.

    The Restricted Substances List defines those chemicalswhich are not allowed in products or which are not allowedto exceed a specific limit.

    Is it necessary to test the final product for all those chemicals listed in the RSL?

    Is it possible to select critical substances/chemicals?

    If yes, how?

  • How to test the product

    Focus on high risk material in your product.

    Specific chemicals are related to specific materials or processes.

    Test high risk material regularly if they are used continuously.

    Test real product not special test sample.

    Focus on critical parameters.

    Test according to a matrix which identifies high risk substances.

  • What to Test

    Matrix to identify high risk materials

    xxxPCP, TeCP

    xCr VI

    xDisperse DyesxxxxAzo Dyes

    xxPhthalatesxNickel

    xxCadmium totalxxx(x)Lead total

    MetalsPlasticSyntheticLeather

    SyntheticFibre

    NaturalFibre

    LeatherRSL Parameter

  • What to do in case of Failures

    1. Stop- stop production, stop shipping

    2. If already shipped- inform customer immediately- avoid deliverance and unintended use- avoid recalls by officials

    3. Dont repeat production and hope for a different lab result.

    4. Investigate with support of laboratory, customer and raw material supplier.

  • What to do in case of Failures?

    5. Identify- identify material of failure - which component, which colour.- can it be easily replaced e.g. shoelace.- collect and trace all related documents of raw materials, production steps, production records.

    - review and analyze.

    6. Root Cause- contamination e.g. forbidden azo dyes from an unclean dye container.

    - sample variation e.g. cadmium residues in recycled PVC.- wrong raw materials, chemicals used during production e.g. forbidden azo dyes, forbidden phthalates, lead.

    - did it occur after production e.g. Cr VI formation.

  • 7. Action Plan- work to improve the material.- test corresponding raw material and products.- do selective testing for these parameters.- find alternatives e.g. for lead(lead used as pigment, speed dying, increase durability, avoid corrosion, retain a fresh appearance, heat stabilizer in plastic).

    What to do in case of Failures?

  • What to do in case of Failures?

    7. Action Plan- replace using alternatives

    (e.g. use substitutes of lead as heat stabilizer such as barium, calcium, zinc, magnesium, or mixtures of these,rare earth, auxiliary heat stabilizers such as epoxides, phosphate ester).

    - test with harder conditions to simulate the risk of Cr VI formation = test after agingaging: high temperature, low humidity.

    - add additives to reduce the risk of Cr VI formation.

  • Thank You

    www.STRQuality.com

  • Understanding Testing When to Test, How to Test, What to Test

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010

  • International Product Safety & Restricted

    Substances Conference

    Hangzhou

    May 11, 2010