Checks and Stripes Session 17-21

7/29/2019 Checks and Stripes Session 17-21

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STRIPES & CHECKS

SESSION 17-21


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Horizontal stripe fabrics


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Horizontal Stripe Fabric


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Vertical stripe fabric


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Vertical stripe fabric


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Checks fabric


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Checks fabric


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ALIGNMENT DIFFICULTIES

STRIPES & CHECKS

Three main difficulties which affect markermaking and spreading procedure

1.Fabric dimensions show variations:

2.Superimposed plies must be matched:

3.Garment pieces must be positionedaccurately in relation to the fabric pattern:


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1. Fabric dimensions show variations:

Problem associated with bowing and skewing

These distortions are shown up well in width ways

striped and checked fabrics.

Dimensional variation along the length of the

fabric.


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A single ply may exhibit these effects.

The distance between pattern repeats can be

measured easily to determine the magnitude

of problem.

The differences arise wherever the fabric canbe distorted during its formation and finishing.


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2. Superimposed plies must be matched

In order to lay up these patterned fabrics, it is

essential that the ply length be determined

by the pattern and not by the absolutelength.

Consequently, to superimpose successiveplies, areas of fullness and tightness must be

accommodated within the lay.


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3. Garment pieces must be positioned accurately inrelation to the fabric pattern

Having layed up the fabric, a marker must be placed

over the top ply.

However, the marker is made to fit fabric with thespecification pattern repeat dimensions, and anexact match may not occur.

This means adjustments must be made manuallyduring cutting


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Construction of Garment Design

Variety ofmatching positions

Neck, shoulder areas

Side seam

Additional matching position -----Complexity

Keep mim. Matching positions to achievedesired quality


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Spreading Techniques

Time consuming and labour intensive

Sometime individual plies may be cut

All techniques are based on locatingparticular stripes or checks and

superimposing plies in a controlled manner.

Lays are generally short


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1. Check spikes

2. Pinning Table

3. Folding

4. Block out


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Check Spikes

Base-2.5cm diameter

Different length

Important matching points are located

Inexpensive

Ensure critical points are matched


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Check spikes (not real image)


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Check Spikes

Can produce localized distortion

Safety hazard

Time consuming


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Pinning Table

Are a development of check spikeprinciple and are designed to overcomesome drawbacks.

Contains holes

The operator moves the pins vertically asnecessary, beginning with the points justabove the surface.


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Pinning table

Each successive ply is positioned on thetable with the matching points on the pins.

The operator ensures that the pins alwaysprotrude just above the top ply.

Spreading is generally done by hands butmachines can also be used.


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Can reduce spreading time.

Reduces localized distortion

Reduces safety hazards

Permits longer lays to be processed


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The usage of pins and pin tables in

cutting room applications are:

To reduce ply slippage during lay cutting by straight knife

To align checks and stripes

To align check or stripe while relaying block cut

components

To reduce ply slippage while transferring fabric blocks to

band knife


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Folding

A method for processing relatively simple stripe knitwearinvolves cutting and folding panels of fabric.

The fabric is folded to match the stripes and to compensatefor any bow or skew that is present.

From the folded lay a small lay is built up , which may then becut.

Very effective at minimizing problem of bow.

Not convenient for styles requiring more complex markerplans.


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Blocking Out and Relaying

Marker planned with relaying allowances

Spread like plain and blocks are cut

Relaying using small pinning tables orcheck spikes so that all the superimposed

plies are correctly positioned.

Re-cutting

Useful if few matching points

Material cost is high


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Marker Planning

Check spikes and pinning table

Based on pattern repeat size

Matching positions clearly marked

Folding

Paper marker not used

No. of Folds must be stated

Blocking out

Pattern repeat allowance


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Make marker

Shirt

Check fabric

Repeat size

8cm

12cm

15cm


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End

Checks and Stripes Session 17-21

Documents

Transcript of Checks and Stripes Session 17-21