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Cheap, easy, low-waste trestle table plansby aeray on December 24, 2010 Table of Contents Cheap, easy, low-waste trestle table plans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: Cheap, easy, low-waste trestle table plans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 1: Tools and Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 2: Cutting Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: Measure, Measure, Mark and Cut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 4: Drill the 2 x 4s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 5: Drill 2 x 6s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 6: Drill the Door Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 7: Assemble Trestles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 8: Final Set-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 2 3 4 5 5 6 7 7 7 9 9

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-easy-low-waste-trestle-table/

Author:aerayCraftsman of fortune. Less is more, and simpler is better.

Intro: Cheap, easy, low-waste trestle table plansBuild an attractive trestle table for about $100.00, in an hour and a half, using common materials, and minimum number of tools. It is suitable for dining or as a work table. It can can be set up or taken apart in a minute or two, using no tools, and stores compactly. There are several holes to drill, but absolute precision isn't necessary, and a hand-held drill will work fine. This version is 30" high, 30"wide, and 80" long. It seats 6 comfortably, and 8 in a pinch. It is also easily re-sized. If you would like material dimensions for other finished sizes, just leave a comment or PM me. Comments and ratings are more than welcome. For a similar shelving unit, click here. For a similar platform bed, click here. As a professional carpenter, furniture maker, and designer/builder, I see a lot of home carpentry projects that are grossly overbuilt and over-engineered. One of the goals of this Instructable is to avoid the unnecessary overbuilding that I frequently see on this site, and that I see every day working in the residential construction industry. Many of the building methods we (in the US) use today are horribly wasteful despite the advances that have been made in materials science and structural engineering, because most people in the residential building industry, from architects and engineers to carpenters, are mired in tradition, doing things a certain way "because that is how it has always been done", rather than consulting the best available science, or even questioning their own assumptions about "the right way to do it". I don't intend to knock tradition, either. Many of the tricks, techniques, and tools that I use daily are definitely "old-school", but seem to have been forgotten.

Step 1: Tools and MaterialsTools: Skillsaw, handsaw miter box, or power miter saw Tape measure Drill (drill motor) 1/8" (#10) countersinking bit, or just an 1/8" bit 1/2" drill bit Screwdriver (hand or power) Pencil Square (if you are using a Skillsaw) Optional: Jigsaw or bandsaw Materials: (1) 10' 2 x 4 (2) 8' 2 x 6 (24) 3" #10 wood screws 18" 1/2" dowel (4) screw-on rubber furniture feet (1) 3'-0" x 6'-8" x 1-3/8" flush, solid-core door slab A small amount of wood glue, or just regular white glue. A note on screws: I am a professional carpenter and furniture maker, and I make things easier on myself by NEVER using Phillips head screws. The Phillips head was designed to "cam out" at a fairly low torque for assembly line work before the advent of adjustable torque limiting drill/drivers. I use only Robertson square drive or Torx head screws, and save myself a lot of time and frustration. Solid-core door slabs of this size are sometimes normal "stock" items at the lumberyard, but you may have to order it. Make sure that you specify very clearly that you want "an un-bored, un-mortised flush door slab, with no jamb". You can even order a pre-finished slab for a few bucks more, and save yourself some work. Different species of wood are available. I used plain old birch. The 2x material can be of any species, but take a few extra minutes to pick straight and attractive boards.


The finish on the table is optional, and up to you. I spent about $50.00 on stain, varnish, and sandpaper. The top is simply varnished (3 coats), the trestles are Minwax Ebony, and the stretcher is Minwax English Chestnut (with 2 coats of varnish). I used Sherwin-Williams satin Oil-based varnish, but a wipe-on polyurethane would be easier, as would a spray lacquer like Deft. Sand the bare wood with 120-grit paper, no finer, and follow the instructions supplied by the manufacturer of whatever finish you choose. If you choose to finish the table, you should clearcoat every surface of each piece, but you only have to stain the surfaces that show.

Step 2: Cutting TipsTerminology: A bevel is an angled cut which is perpendicular to the wider face of the board but at an angle across the narrower edge of the board. A miter is an angled cut which is perpendicular to the narrower edge of the board but at an angle across the wider face of the board. To set your saw to a bevel, first cut a piece of scrap to the desired angle, and then use the scrap to set the bevel. If you don't have a way to determine the initial angle (in this case 10 degrees) draw a rectangle that is 2" x 11-3/8" and connect the corners. When cutting dowels or other small stock with a power miter saw, place a piece of scrap behind the stock being cut to support and "catch" the cut-off piece.

Image Notes 1. Cut the miter...

Image Notes 1. ... and then set the bevel.


Image Notes 1. Scrap "backer" stock supports the dowel

Step 3: Measure, Measure, Mark and CutRefer to the PDF for an illustrated cut list. From the 2 x 4 cut: (2) 30" lengths (2) 24" lengths Add a 1/2" chamfer to the ends. Measure back 1/2" from the ends, and make a 45 degree cut, "clipping" the corner off of the board. Refer to the photo, it will be much clearer. From the 2 x 6s cut: (4) 2'-2" pieces, with a 10 degree bevel on each end. The bevels should be parallel to measurement is made from a long point to a short point. each other, forming a parallelogram when viewed from edge of the board. The

(1) 5'-0" piece, with a 10 degree miter on each end, forming a trapezoid when viewed from the face of the board. The 5' is measured from long point to long point. (1) 8 5/8" piece, square cut. Because perfect alignment of this piece is unlikely, you should aggressively "ease" the cut ends with a bit of sandpaper. From the dowel cut: (4) 2 3/8" pieces (7) 7/8" pieces Optional: On the bottom edge of the 5' 2 x 6, cut a decorative profile. My table has a 4' wide arc that is 1-13/16" tall. A curve this shallow can be cut with a Skilsaw, if the blade depth is set to exactly 1-1/2". Other options are shown in the PDFs. Check out my Instructable on laying out curves.

Image Notes 1. 1/2" back from end. 2. Saw set to 45 degree bevel.

Image Notes 1. Completed chamfer.


File Downloads

Stretcher Options.pdf (51 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Stretcher Options.pdf']

Cut List 2.pdf (54 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Cut List 2.pdf']

Step 4: Drill the 2 x 4sOn the unchamfered face of each 30" piece, mark 9-3/4", 11-1/2", 13-1/4", 16-3/4" 18-1/2", and 20-1/4" then mark the centers (1-3/4" from the edge). See the 1st photo. Drill 1/8" pilot holes in these locations. On the unchamfered face of each 24" piece, mark 1-3/4", 6-3/4", 8-1/2", 10-1/4", 13-3/4", 15-1/2", 17-1/4, and 22-1/4", then mark the centers. See the 2nd photo. Drill 1/2" diameter, 1/2" deep holes at the two outermost locations. Use a piece of tape to mark the depth of the hole on your 1/2" bit. Drill 1/8" pilot holes in the other six locations.

Image Notes 1. 30" piece 2. Unchamfered face 3. 1/8" pilot hole locations

Image Notes 1. 1/2" hole, 1/2" deep 2. 1/2" hole, 1/2" deep 3. 1/8" pilot holes

Image Notes 1. 1/2" depth set


Step 5: Drill 2 x 6sAlign two of the 2 x 6s face to face so that they look like an arrow when viewed from the edge. See the 1st photo. Hooking the tape on one of the long (tail of the arrow ends) mark 13-1/8" and 19-1/8". Transfer these marks across the edge, and then mark the centers. See the 2nd photo. Drill 1/2" diameter, 1/2" deep holes at these locations. Repeat these steps with the other pair of 2 x 6s. On one end of the shortest 2 x 6, mark the absolute center. O the other end, mark 1-1/4" in from each edge, and then mark the centers. Drill 1/2" diameter, 1/2" deep holes in these locations. See 3rd and 4th photos. You may want a clamp or an extra set of hands while drilling these holes. On the top, long edge of the 5' 2 x 6 mark 28-1/2" and 31-1/2" measuring from the long point. Mark the centers and drill 1/2" diameter, 1/2" deep holes at those locations. See the 5th photo.

Image Notes 1. Points together 2. Points apart 3. Measure from here

Image Notes 1. Centered

Image Notes 1. 1-1/4" from edge, centered.


Image Notes 1. Long edge of 5' 2 x 6

Step 6: Drill the Door SlabMeasure in 16" from the ends of the door, and 7-3/4" in from the edges, making marks at the four intersections. Make a mark in the dead center of the door, 1'-6" from the edges and 3'-4" from the ends, forming a quincunx. I love that word. Drill 1/2" diameter, 1/2" deep holes in these five locations. Again, check the photos. If you are going to sand, stain, finish, or paint your table, now is the time to do it.

Image Notes 1. End 2. Edge

Image Notes 1. Dead center

File Downloads

Slab Hole Pattern.pdf (54 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Slab Hole Pattern.pdf']

Step 7: Assemble TrestlesIt is good to have a helper for this part, but it can be done solo (I did). On the chamfered face of the 30" 2 x 4 make a mark 1'-2-1/4" from the end. Draw a line 1" from the edge, parallel to it. On dark material, it is helpful to use a piece of tape to indicate the line, as pencil is hard to see. See 1st photo. Using screws, attach one of the bevelled 2 x 6s to the 2 x 4, keeping the pointed "toe" of the bevel on the 1" line. The edge should be on the other mark. The 1/2" holes should be towards the center, and away from the 2 x 4. Apply a small amount of glue to one end of two of the 2-3/8" dowels and place them in the holes in the 2 x 6. Place a small amount of glue in the 1/2" holes in the matching 2 x 6, and attach it to the 2 x 4, using scrap 2x material to maintain 1-1/2" of separation between the 2 x 6s. See the 2nd and 3rd photos. "Cap" the assembly with a 24" 2 x 4, but make your layout mark at 11-1/4". Attach two of the rubber feet to the longer 2 x 4, as far "outboard" as you can. See photo 5.


Repeat the whole process, making two trestles. Glue 7/8" dowels into all three holes in the 8-5/8" 2 x 6.

Image Notes 1. Completed trestle. Ignore. 2. Marking the line 1" from the edge

Image Notes 1. Short 2 x 4 2. Scrap spacer 3. 2-3/8" dowels

Image Notes 1. Short 2 x 4 2. Long 2 x 4 3. Dowels are closer to the short 2 x 4


Image Notes 1. Rubber foot

Step 8: Final Set-upPlace the long 2 x 6 through the trestles, between the 2 x 6s and dowels. Position the trestles 4" from the long point of the 2 x 6. See photo. Place the short 2 x 6 on top of the long 2 x 6. Put 7/8" dowels, unglued, in the four holes in the shorter 2 x 4. Place the slab on top of the assembly and adjust the legs and top until the dowels match up with the holes. Enjoy! Please post pictures of your efforts.

Image Notes 1. 4" protruding

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Comments28 comments Add Comment

CementTruck says:Beautiful! Looks reminiscent of Japanese/Frank LLoyd Wright inspired design. My all time favorite.

Dec 25, 2010. 8:08 AM REPLY

What did you use for the stain on the trestles? I'm building a dining room table and matching buffet and I want to have a dark brown stain, and I want barely any grain showing as I am using cheap lumber.

aeray says:

Dec 25, 2010. 11:09 AM REPLY This is cheap lumber as well. White Fir. I used Minwax Ebony for the trestles, and Minwax English Chestnut for the stretcher.

bnolsen says:Would something like this be solid enough to use as a dining table? Using a solid core door is pretty awesome here!

Dec 27, 2010. 8:54 PM REPLY

aeray says:We'll be using it as a worktable, but, yes, it is entirely appropriate, and sized to be, a dining table. The solid core door is the easiest, most affordable tabletop I can think of.

Dec 28, 2010. 6:29 AM REPLY

mhendrickson says:

Jan 29, 2011. 12:20 PM REPLY Just completed the table and it looks great. Needed for my home office. Used similar stains to yours minus the decorative cut out on the stretcher. My skills not ready for that. Still a great table. Thanks Aeray! Pics attached including one of table in pieces minus tabletop:

aeray says:Looks great! Thanks for the pics.

Jan 29, 2011. 9:59 PM REPLY

quiviran says:Yet another use for the ever popular hollow-core door. Good one! Much prettier than anything I've ever managed. Could you possibly add another picture of the table broken down as if preparing to move? Thanks.

Dec 25, 2010. 7:12 AM REPLY

aeray says:Another user, mhendrickson, has posted pictures of her table in the "broken down" mode, see above.

Jan 29, 2011. 10:03 PM REPLY

quiviran says:Thanks for the tip about the picture.

Jan 31, 2011. 5:33 AM REPLY

This deserves the name "nomadic furniture" but is more beautiful than most in that category. With appropriate scaling of the component parts, and the ability to produce different sized tops, this design could be desk, dining table, end table, coffee table or tv stand. It would be way overbuilt for most uses, but pretty to look at and easy to transport.

aeray says:Thanks, glad you like it.

Jan 31, 2011. 7:35 AM REPLY

aeray says:1) This is a solid core door. 2) I'm traveling right now, but I'll post one when I get back. It looks like two trestles, a top, and a stretcher.

Dec 25, 2010. 11:11 AM REPLY


quiviran says:It helps when I read the instructions. Solid core indeed. Thanks for the added pix when you get a chance.

Dec 25, 2010. 1:54 PM REPLY

astrong0 says:epic table :)

Dec 24, 2010. 5:56 PM REPLY

aeray says:Build one and post some pics. Less epic than you think.

Dec 24, 2010. 7:38 PM REPLY

astrong0 says:Oh? How so, if I may ask.

Dec 24, 2010. 11:02 PM REPLY

aeray says:

Dec 25, 2010. 11:13 AM REPLY It's cheap and only takes an hour and a half to build. I built a table a few years ago that took two weeks to finish and was sold for many thousands of dollars.

astrong0 says:Was it made of the same materials?

Dec 25, 2010. 2:31 PM REPLY

aeray says:No. It was built of a 4" thick black walnut slab, steel, and two types of stone, and took 3 guys to move.

Dec 25, 2010. 4:02 PM REPLY

astrong0 says:still epic though.

Jan 29, 2011. 9:57 PM REPLY

astrong0 says:Ah, that would make more sense for the price.

Dec 25, 2010. 10:33 PM REPLY

jdege says:If it were me, I'd not do so much measuring.

Dec 25, 2010. 3:19 PM REPLY

Case in point: you're using measurement to locate the dowel holes along the edges of the 2x6's. If the dowels are to fit, these holes need to be precisely located. I'd only measure to locate the holes along one of each of the pairs of 2x6's, then I'd use dowel centers to transfer the locations to the other. Ditto for the holes in the 2x4's that are supposed to match the dowel holes in the ends of the 2x6's. I'd use measurement to locate the center of each 2x6, drill the hole, and then use a dowel center to transfer the location to the matching 2x4. I find I make fewer errors, the less measurement I do.

aeray says:

Dec 25, 2010. 4:00 PM REPLY Yep, but dowel centers are another (not very common) tool. I'm trying to keep it easy for folks, using common tools and materials. The dowel holes in the 2 x 4s line up with the holes in the tabletop, not with the 2 x 6s. There are no holes in the ends of the 2 x 6s.

jdege says:

Dec 25, 2010. 4:38 PM REPLY It's not just dowel centers. You need all four of the legs cut to exactly the same length. That can be done by measure each carefully, and cutting each very carefully, but that usually goes wrong. What works better is to clamp them together and cut them all at once (if you're using a circ saw), or to use a stop block (if you're using a table saw or a miter saw). Measurement is the source of errors. I avoid it when possible. But then your i'ble is about the design, not about the construction techniques, so perhaps my digression is inappropriate. Are you sure about the holes in the ends of the 2x6's? Photos 3 and 5 of step 5 look like you're drilling holes in the ends of 2x6's, and you have to have some mechanical joinery between the vertical 2x6's and the horizontal 2x4s. I do have one question about the design, though. How is the long horizontal stretcher fastened to the vertical legs? Some of your stretcher designs have notches, but some do not. How do you transfer horizontal pressure against the legs into tension on the stretcher?


aeray says:

Dec 25, 2010. 5:55 PM REPLY I actually did, and do, use stops or marks on my cutting table, but I do not know what type of saw people will choose to use, so I leave it to them to figure out. There are holes in the ends of the "center post", but the 2 x 4s are connected to the 2 x 6 uprights with screws. The stretcher slips between the upright 2 x 6s, and between the cross-dowels, but just barely, and only when the two components are nearly perpendicular. When the trestles are angled, the dowels cam against the top and bottom of the stretcher, locking it in place. When the top and center post are installed they keep the trestles from moving back towards perpendicular. The stretchers illustrated have no notches, merely decorative cutouts. Ditto for the actual stretcher.

jdege says:

Dec 25, 2010. 6:35 PM REPLY So, a horizontal force against the end of the table transfers into a rotating force on the trestles around the joint between the trestles and the top. Which on the near trestle transfers into a compressive pressure by the cross dowels into the stretcher. Which means when my 240 pound nephew falls against it, during an in-house game of touch football, it's not likely to collapse. Which would be a good thing.

aeray says:

Dec 25, 2010. 7:24 PM REPLY I weigh about that much, and I gave it a pretty good slam to test it out. Obviously, it wiggled a little, but the harder you push, the tighter the dowels get. I imagine that if you pushed hard enough, either the dowels or the material surrounding them would blow out, but it's a table, after all, not a blocking dummy ;)

Dr. Pepper says:georgeous! amazing! great job!

Dec 24, 2010. 2:48 PM REPLY

aeray says:Thanks!

Dec 24, 2010. 2:54 PM REPLY


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