© 2021 Charm Patterns by GertieFREE YOUTUBE TUTORIAL

Charm Scout Hat

C H A R M S C O U T H AT | 2© 2021 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited

Hey campers! This ’40s-style garrison cap was inspired by vintage scouting uniforms and the fabulous Phyllis Neffler in Troop Beverly Hills. But its uses far exceed just campy fun! This style of hat is well known for its prevalence in all types of uniforms: military, stewardess, soda jerk, Britney Spears in “Toxic,” the list goes on and on. Use this pattern for your next cosplay or historical costuming project—or just make a chic vintage-style topper to wear with tailored looks! The possibilities are endless. Don’t forget to watch the YouTube video for a start-to-finish tutorial on sewing this hat.

xoxo,

FIT NOTES

One size fits all in this cute little hat, which is meant to perch jauntily on your head.

MATERIALS & NOTIONS

• ¼ yd (0.2 m) fabric for hat

• ¼ yd (0.2 m) fabric for lining

• Thread to match your fabric

• ¼ yd (0.2 m) fusible interfacing for hat band (weft, woven, or lightweight knit interfacing)

• 1 yd (0.9 m) packaged piping

FABRIC NOTES

We recommend medium-weight wovens: wool flannel, crepe, double crepe, and gabardine; cotton twill, sateen, or canvas; denim; linen and linen blends; and suitings.

PATTERN PIECES

1. Hat Cut 2 fabric, 2 lining

2. Hat BandCut 2 fabric, 2 interfacing

SEWING INSTRUCTIONSBEFORE SEWING

Join templates: Print out the two pattern pieces on pages 4–5 and join both halves together for each piece. Make sure your printer is set to print at 100%, "no scaling." Measure the 1-inch (in) square to ensure proper printing size.

Transferring marks: Use dressmaker’s tracing paper and a tracing wheel to transfer all pattern markings to the wrong side (WS) of your fabric. Mark pattern notches by snipping into the seam allowance with the tip of your scissors. Make sure not to snip any further than ¼ in.

Seam Finishing: There’s no need to do any seam finishing on this hat, since all seam allowances are fully enclosed.

Interfacing: The hat band needs to be stabilized with fusible interfacing before sewing. Follow the interfacing cutting instructions on the pattern piece. Apply fusible interfacing to the WS of the fabric, using a press cloth and steam. Do not move your iron back and forth; lift it up and press down for several seconds at a time until the interfacing is fully adhered.

NOTES

• ¼-in (6 mm) seam allowances are included on all pattern pieces, except where otherwise noted (the upper edge of the hat band has a 3/8-in seam allowance to account for the piping’s flange).

SEWING THE HAT

1. Sew hat band center back seam: pin Hat Band (2) pieces right sides (RS) together at short end. Stitch using a ¼-in (6 mm) seam allowance. Notch seam allowance and press open.

2. Sew piping to upper edge of hat band: pin piping to upper raw edge of hat band, aligning piping flange (the seam allowance edge) with raw edge of hat band. Stitch piping in place using a zipper foot, sewing on top of the stitching on your pre-made piping (just next to the cording).

C H A R M S C O U T H AT | 3© 2021 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited

3. Topstitch piping: press piping to wrong side (WS) of hat band, so that just the cording shows along the top of the band’s RS. Sew two rows of topstitching using an edgestitch foot as your guide (or substitute a blind hem foot). The first line of stitching should be on the hat band just next to where it meets the piping, and the second line of stitching should be 1/8 in (3 mm) away from the first.

4. Sew the hat: place the Hat (1) pieces RS together around the curved edges (leaving the straight bottom edge open) and pin. Stitch. Notch around curves. Press seam allowances open. Turn hat RS out and press flat, rolling the seamline to the very edge of the hat.

5. Sew the hat lining: place the hat lining pieces RS together around the curved edges (leaving the straight bottom edge open) and pin. Make two marks about 3 in (7.6 cm) apart along this curved edge; this will become the opening to turn the hat through. Stitch the curved seam, leaving open between the marks. Notch around curves. Press seam allowances open. At the 3-in opening, press seam allowances ¼ in (6 mm) to the WS of the lining.

6. Attach band to hat: pin hat band to outer hat along lower straight edge, aligning center back seams and circles, overlapping the band ends at the hat front, and matching the notches on the band to the center front seam on the hat. Baste the band in place by machine.

7. Sew lining to hat: place outer hat/band unit inside hat lining, RS together, matching lower raw edges. Pin. Stitch.

8. Topstitch lower hat edge: turn hat RS out by pulling the outer hat through opening in lining. Turn lining to the inside of the hat and flip hat band down, isolating the lower edge of the hat and lining layers. Topstitch the hat and lining layers together ¼ in from band seam, making sure that the layers remain flat and smooth as you stitch. Flip band back up onto the hat and press lower edge of the hat.

9. Close opening in lining: pin the lining’s opening closed, with the pressed-in seam allowances edge-to-edge. Stitch just next to the opening to close. If desired, you may also hand-tack the lining in place inside of the hat, anchoring your hand stitches to the hat’s seam allowances.

Enjoy your fabulous Charm Scout Hat!

MORE FROM GERTIEOn Instagram: Stay in the loop and get inspired.

On YouTube: Learn beginner and advanced sewing skills and techniques through my tutorials, watch episodes of my Gertie’s World series, and join regular live streams.

On Patreon: Access monthly patterns and tutorial videos.

At CharmPatterns.com: Shop my sewing patterns and accessories.

C H A R M S C O U T H AT | 4© 2021 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited

BAND MATCH POINT

1Hat

Cut 2 fabric, 2 lining CharmScout Hat

One size fits all

1/4 inch (in) (6 mm) seam allowances are included on all pattern pieces.

Fold back paper where indicated, match at grey squares, and tape together before cutting your fabric.

SYMBOL KEY

grainline arrow

match point/placement mark

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C H A R M S C O U T H AT | 5© 2021 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited

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FOLD BACK THIS MARGIN