154

CHAPTER - V

PRODUCTION AND TECHNOLOGY

In the field of handloom weaving technology, two important considerations are

kept in view while manufacturing in the export front. These are:

(i) The design specifications have to be met in as much as these are to

be controlled and operated manually in the Pre-loom and loom process

and

(ii) The fabric should be reasonably free from defects originating on the yarn

and the pre-loom and on loom processes.

Though many techniques are available, the weavers in Prakasam District follow

certain techniques which are described in the following lines.

Since the mill made yarn is available, the weavers need not go for hand made yarn

and thus technology of making yarn has been shifted to modern technology. Likewise the

dying unit is also available. Almost all the weavers use it for various processes. This is

another important swift from the old technology.

Mostly yarn has been supplied in hanks. From the hanks the yarn has been

transferred to bobbins with the help of the bobbin winding wheel (charka). Almost all the

weavers have charkas and hank stands. Though the peg-warping is primitive one, they

still use it because; it has certain advantages such as even one bobbin can be used for

warping according to the need.

Stick warping is another primitive method, still followed by some of the weavers.

Though this method requires lengths of yarn it can be obtained easily and more over it is

very necessary to follow and the family members can help without many instructions

from weaver.

However, only very few people follow these methods. Almost all members

practise single thread horizontal warping mill method, which has certain advantages, such

155

as, at (a) a time 3 to 30 bobbins of yarn can be utilized for weaving and (b) there are two

warping mills in the area and these are being very effectively utilised for warping.

After warping, street sizing has been followed almost by every weaver. Almost all

the weavers have sufficient implements for street sizing.

All the weavers have beaming arrangements in their looms. Generally these beams

are made of wood. The warp can be wound up-on the wooden beams and the threads of

the new warp can be tied upto renout of the previous warp threads in the healds and reeds

of an old set. However, some weavers draw-new threads directly in the healds and dents

of the reed and tie up to the cloth beam. This is some what advanced method followed

only by very few members.

For weft preparation pirn winding is in practice. The pirns are generally made of

wooden and can be used by the hank stand and winding wheel for pirn winding.

In Prakasam District all the weavers have fly shuttle - pit looms only. New type of

looms like powerlooms, automotive devices are yet to be introduced here. However,

master weavers have introduced the Jacquards and Dobbies which can be used for

weaving multi designed cloth.

5.1. WEAVERS AND LOOMS IN THE STUDY AREA

In the study area there are five categories of weavers using five types of looms,

and the data regarding these particulars is given in the Table 5.1

156

Table-5.1

TYPE OF LOOM VS CATEGORY OF WEAVER (NUMBER OF WEAVERS)

Type of Loom Indepen-

dent Weaver

Master Weaver

Weaver under

Middlemen

Cooperative Weaver

Labour Weaver

Total

Fly shuttle Pitlooms

11

(24.44)

2

(13.33)

82 (62.12)

4

(22.22)

54 (56.84)

153 (50.16)

Frame Looms 2

(4.44)

1

(6.66)

10

(7.57)

1

(5.55)

-

-

14

(4.59)

Fly shuttle Pitloom with Jacquard

13

(28.88)

8

(53.33)

28

(21.21)

6

(33.33) 24

(25.26)

79

(25.90)

Fly shuttle pitloom with Dobbies

18

(40)

4

(26.66)

12

(9.09)

7

(38.88) 17

(17.89)

58

(19.01)

Semi Automatic Looms

1

(2.22) -

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

1

(0.32)

Total 45

(100)

15

(100)

132

(100)

18

(100)

95

(100) 305

Source : Primary Data

Note : Figures in parentheses indicate percentages to total

The production activity of the weavers is influenced by the type of looms used by

them. Keeping in view the advantage of looms, the weavers were asked about their

preference of the looms.

The data reveals that majority of weavers of all categories constituting 50.16 per

cent weave on Fly Shuttle Pit Looms followed by the respondents who won on Fly

Shuttle Pit Loom with Jacquards who account for 25.90 per cent. Despite the free

availability of sophisticated looms with better and advanced technologies like Fly Shuttle

Pit Looms with Jacquards and Dobbies, the respondent weavers opt simple Fly shuttle pit

looms only. Because they require cheaper investment, easy and low maintenance and

arrangement. Frame looms and Semi Automatic Looms are given the least preference by

the respondents in the area of study.

Independent weavers make use of advanced technologies by giving the highest

preference to Fly Shuttle Pit Looms with Dobbies (40.00 per cent). The next preference is

to Fly Shuttle Pit looms with Jacquards (28.88 per cent) and Simple Fly Shuttle Pit Looms

157

(24.44 per cent). Option to Frame Looms and Semi Automatic looms is given by least

percentage of respondents. Master weavers give first preference to Fly Shuttle Pit Looms

with Jacquards (53.33 per cent) and secondly Fly Shuttle Pit Looms with Dobbies (26.66

per cent). Weavers under Middlemen prefer mainly simple Fly Shuttle Pit Looms (62.12 per

cent), whereas Cooperative weavers prefer Fly Shuttle Pit Looms with Jacquards (38.88

per cent) and Fly Shuttle Pit Looms with Dobbies (33.33 per cent) and Labour weavers

prefer Fly Shuttle Pit Looms (56.84 per cent) and Fly Shuttle Pit looms with Jacquards

(25.26 per cent). Hence, it can be concluded that Independent weavers, Master weavers and

Cooperative weavers make use of advanced technology by using Fly Shuttle Pit looms

with Jacquards and Fly Shuttle Pit Looms with Dobbies. Whereas weavers under Middle-

men and Labour weavers stick on to simple Fly Shuttle Pit Looms in the area of study.

5.2 WEAVERS AND THEIR CLOTH PRODUCTION

Weavers usually are specialized and confined to weaving one or few varieties of

cloth depending upon market demand, customers taste, and the instructions of Master

Weavers. But in general a weaver can weave any item of clothes like sarees, dhotis,

lungees, handkerchiefs, pattimarpu etc.

The data regarding item wise production by respondent weavers of different

categories in the area of study is clearly mentioned in the Table 5.2

158

Table-5.2

Wavers category by Product Group

Product / Weaver

Cotton Sarees

Silk Sarees

Zeri Sarees

Ceco Sarees

Dress material

Polyester Lungies Shirting Pattimarpu TOTAL

Independent Weaver

4

(08.89) 16

(35.55)

14

(31.11)

4

(08.89)

4

(08.89) (0.00)

3

(06.67) (0.00) (0.00)

45

(14.75)

Master Weaver

2

(13.33)

1

(06.67)

4

(26.67)

3

(20.00) (0.00)

3

(20.00) (0.00) (0.00)

2

(13.33)

15

(4.91)

Weaver under middlemen

24 (18.18)

20 (15.15)

10 (07.57)

12

(09.09)

22

(16.67)

(0.00)

24

(18.18)

12

(09.09) 8

(06.06)

132

(43.27)

Cooperative weaver

4

(22.22) (0.00)

4

(22.22)

4

(22.22) (0.00) (0.00) (0.00) 6

(33.33) (0.00) 18

(5.90)

Labour weaver 25 (26.33)

12 (12.33)

12 (12.63) (0.00)

13

(13.68) 6

(6.31)

8

(08.42)

16 (16.84)

3

(03.16)

95

(31.14)

TOTAL: 59

(19.34)

49

(16.07) 44

(14.42)

23

(07.54)

39

(12.79) 9

(02.95)

35

(11.47)

34

(11.15)

13

(04.26) 305

(100.00)

Source: Primary Data

Note: Figures in parentheses indicate percentages to total

159

The data reveals that there are prominently five categories of weavers, who

produce items like Cotton Sarees, Silk Sarees, Zari Sarees, Ceco Sarees, Dress materials,

Polyester, Lungees, Shirting and Pattimarpu. Of all the items cotton sarees grab the

highest percentage of being produced by all categories of weavers with 19.34 per cent,

followed by Silk and Zari Sarees with 16.07 per cent and 14.42 per cent respectively.

Other items like Dress Materials, Lungees, Shirtings are being produced comparatively in

lesser percentage, where as Ceco Sarees, Pattimarpu and Polyester are preferred least by

all categories of weavers in the area of study. Data related to the individual category-wise

production reveals that weavers under Middlemen bring higher production of all types of

items, which share 43.27 per cent of the production followed by Labour weavers who

produce 31.14 per cent of production. Though weavers produce many types of items, they

particularly concentrate 1 or 2 items which have more demand for consumers market of

respective area. Independent weavers produce Silk and Zari sarees in high percentages of

35.55 per cent and 31.11 per cent respectively. When compared to other products it can

be found that Master weavers concentrate more on Zari (26.67 per cent), Ceco (20.00 per

cent) and Polyester Sarees (20.00 per cent), while weavers under middlemen concentrate

on Cotton Saries (18.18 per cent) and Lungees (18.18 per cent), whereas Cooperative

weavers on shirting (33.33 per cent) and Labour weavers on Cotton Saries (26.33 per

cent). On average weavers from all categories concentrate more on cotton sarees (19.34

per cent) in the area of study.

5.3. COMMUNITY WISE SPECIALISATION OF PRODUCTION

The selection of product item by weavers sometimes depends on their community.

Some communities select the type of products according to the demand and taste of

consumers while some other communities do it as tradition.

The data reveals the particulars on respondent weaver’s caste or community by

product group in the Table 5.3.

160

TABLE-5.3

COMMUNITY AND PRODUCT WISE NUMBER OF WEAVERS

Product

Community

Cotton

Sarees

Silk Sarees

Zari Sarees

Ceco Sarees

Dress material

Polyester

Lungees Shirting

Pattimarpu

TOTAL % Product /

Caste

Devanga 31

(18.34)

27

(15.98)

25

(14.79)

10

(05.92) 21

(12.43)

6

(03.55)

24

(14.20)

18

(10.65) 7

(04.65)

169

(100) | (55.40)

Padmasa li 12

(23.08)

8

(15.38)

6

(11.54) (0.00)

16

(30.77) (0.00)

5

(09.61)

4

(7.69)

1

(01.92)

52

(100) | (17.06)

Karnasali

8

(30.77)

6

(23.08)

4

(15.38) (0.00)

2

(07.69) (0.00)

1

(03.85) (0.00)

5

(19.23)

26

(100) | (8.52)

Thogata 5 (12.19)

7

(17.07)

8

(19.51)

6

(14.63)

--

(0.00)

2

(04.88)

1

(02.44)

12

(29.27) (0.00)

41

(100) | (13.45)

Kaikala 3

(17.65)

1

(05.88)

1

(05.88)

7

(41.18)

--

(0.00)

1

(05.88)

4

(23.53)

--

(0.00)

--

(0.00)

17

(100) | (5.57)

TOTAL 59 (19.34)

49

(16.07) 44

(14.42)

23 (07.54)

39

(12.79) 9

(02.95)

35

(11.47) 34

(11.15)

13 (04.26)

305

(100)|(100.00)

Source : Primary Data

Note : Figures in parenthesis indicate percentages to total.

161

Though weavers of Devanga Community produce the highest percentage of all

types of products (55.40 per cent), they prefer mainly Cotton Sarees (18.34 per cent), Silk

Sarees (15.98 per cent) and Zari Sarees (14.72 per cent) of all. Weavers belonging to

Padmasali Community prefer mainly Dress Materials (30.77 per cent) and Cotton Sarees

(23.08 per cent). Weavers of Karnasali Community weave Cotton Sarees (30.77 per cent)

and Silk Sarees (23.08 per cent), whereas weavers of Thogata Community prefer mostly

Shirting (29.27 per cent) to the rest. Weavers of Kaikala Community prefer mostly Ceco

Sarees (41.18 per cent) to the remaining all other types of products

Thus it can be concluded that though different categories of weavers from

different communities prefer different types of products, majority from all communities

prefer to a larger extent sarees as their products. Cotton sarees are woven by 19.34 per

cent respondents; Silk Sarees are woven by 16.07 per cent of respondents and Zari sarees

by 14.42 per cent respondent weavers in the area of study.

5.4 HOURS SPENT ON VARIOUS PRODUCTION ACTIVITIES

Various pre-weaving and weaving activities, which need high range of

concentration, have to be performed by the weavers to get desired out-puts in defferent

items. These activities take several hours of time. In this view, the respondent weavers are

enquired on the time duration they spend on these production activities. The data

pertaining to these particulars is presented in the Table 5.4.

162

Table-5.4

Man Hours Spent on Various Products

(One Length is per 22 Metres)

Item Warping

Dying

Presizing

&

Stagging pin

winding

Bleaching

starching and

sizing

Total

pre we-

aving

Weaving

hours TOTAL

Cotton

Saries

6 5 3 14 55 69

Silk Saries 7 4 3 14 65 79

Zari Saries 7 5 3 15 65 80

Polyester

Material

5 4 3 12 60 72

Dress

materi

als

5 4 3 12 60 72

CECO

materi

als

5 3 3 11 70 81

Shirting 5 3 2 10 45 55

Lungees 4 4 2 10 35 45

Pattimarpu 4 3 3 10 35 45

TOTAL 48 35 25 108 490 598

Source: Primary Data

It is known from the table that the respondent weavers on an average spend

maximum of 11 hours for pre-weaving and 70 hours for weaving CECO materials. Thus

altogether they spend 81 hours for weaving 22 mts of CECO materials. A Zari saree

which will be of 22 mts length requires 80 hours for weaving, out of which 15 hours for

pre-weaving and 65 hours for weaving activity. The weaver has to spend 79 hours,

respectively 14 hours for pre-weaving and 65 hours for weaving a silk saree. Twelve

hours for pre-weaving and 60 hours for weaving, together 72 hours have to be spent by a

weaver, to weave polyster materials and dress materials. Similarly, the weavers spend 69

hours, out of which 14 hours for pre-weaving and 55 hours for weaving of Cotton sarees.

For Shirting, it takes 55 hours, of which 10 hours for pre-weaving and 45 hours for

weaving and finally for Lungees and Pattimarpu the weavers take 45 hours, of which 10

hours for pre- weaving and 35 hours for weaving. The data reveals that weavers in the

163

area of study spend tedious long hours for weaving CECO materials, Zari sarees and Silk

sarees. As it is reported by the respondent weavers, the time spent on various items of

cloth given above is the usual time taken for weaving 22 mtrs of cloth. They opine that

the above mentioned time for weaving activity is the time taken by them and it's not

possible for them to complete the weaving earlier than the time specified above. Higher

the skill time taken, higher the skill needed higher the cost involved. It is but natural, they

expect reasonable remuneration for their tedious strain and industry.

5.5 OPERATIONAL COST STRUCTURE FOR VARIOUS PRODUCTS

Cost of production of various handloom materials involves various item wise

costs. Further, different items have different operational cost structure. Hence, respondent

weavers are asked on the operational cost structure they have to follow to weave their

items. The data regarding their responses related to the operational cost structure is

presented in the Table 5.5

Table-5.5

OPERATION COST STRUCTURE IN VARIOUS PRODUCTS

(Value, in Rs. Per 22 metres)

Item Warping

Dying

Resizing

& Staging

pin

winding

Bleaching

starching

and sizing

Total pre

weaving

cost

Weaving

cost

TOTAL

COST

Cotton Saries 50 40 50 140 700 840

Silk Saries 60 50 50 160 1200 1360

Zari Saries 55 40 60 155 1400 1555

Polyester

Material

50 40 50 130 1500 1630

Dress

materials

50 40 60 150 1500 1650

CECO

materials

45 40 50 135 1500 1635

Shirting 40 40 50 130 350 480

Lungees 30 35 40 105 250 355

Pattimarpu 35 35 40 110 !40 250

Source: Primary Data

It is observed from the data that the total operational cost for weaving 22 mtrs of

Pattimarpu, excluding raw material cost is estimated to be Rs. 250/-, of which Rs. 110/-

for pre-weaving and Rs. 140/- for weaving cost followed by operational cost of Lungees

164

of Rs. 355/-, Shirting Rs. 480/-, Cotton sarees Rs. 840/-, Silk sarees Rs. 1.360/-. Zari

sarees Rs. 1,555/-, Polyester sarees Rs. 1,630/-CECO materials Rs. 1,635/-, and for Dress

materials Rs. 1,650/-. This clearly indicates that the operational costs incurred on weaving

Dress materials, CECO materials and Polyester sarees are higher when compared to the

operational costs of other items. The cost structure exhibits the efficiency and skill of

handloom weavers which is a deciding factor of the cost of production of the handloom

products. Hence it is essential to reduce the cost of pre-weaving and cost of weaving

besides minimizing the wastage. This results profits for weavers and prosperity of

handloom weavers.

5.6 FIXED CAPITAL REQUIREMENT FOR VARIOUS WEAVERS

Weaving cloth on handlooms requires certain amount of fixed capital investment,

without which weaving activity can not be started. This depends on the type of cloth to

be woven, number of pieces to be woven and more over on economic capability of the

weavers. Keeping this concept in view, the respondent weavers are asked about the sum

amount of their respective fixed capital investment. The data pertaining to these

particulars is presented in the Table 5.6.

Table-5.6 Fixed Capital Investment Requirement of Various Weavers

Amount in (Rs.)

Indepen dent Weaver

Master Weaver

Weaver under Middle men

Co-op Weaver

Labour Weaver

TOTAL

Below 10,000 14

(31.11)

--

--

45 (34.04)

2

(11.11)

32 (33.68)

93 (30.49)

10,000-20,000 13

(28.89) --

--

32 (24.24)

3

(16.67)

38 (40.00)

86 (28.20)

20,000-30,000 13

(28.89) 7

(46.67)

20 (15.15)

8

(44.44)

12

(12.63)

60

(19.67)

30,000-40,000 2

(04.44)

4

(26.67)

8

(06.06)

2

(11.11)

7

(07.37)

23

(07.54)

40,000 - 50,000 1

(02.22)

1

(06.66)

12 (09.09)

2

(11.11)

6

(06.31)

22

(07.21)

Above 50,000 2

(04.44)

3

(20.00)

15 (11.36)

1

(05.55)

--

--

21

(06.88)

TOTAL 45

(100.0)

15

(100.0)

132

(100.0)

18 (100.0)

95 (100.0)

305 (100.0)

Source: Primary Data

Note: Figures in Parentheses indicate percentages to total.

165

The data reveals that the highest percentage (30.49 per cent) of all categories of

weavers in the area of study require fixed capital investment below of Rs. 10,000/- and

the second highest percentage (28.20 per cent) of respondents require fixed capital

investment worth Rs. 10,000/- to Rs 20,000 and 19.67 per cent of weavers require a fixed

capital investment of Rs. 20,000/- to Rs 30,000/-, whereas 07.54 per cent and 07.21 per

cent of weavers require Rs. 30,000/- to Rs-40,000/- and Rs. 40,000/- to Rs 50,000/- as

fixed capital investment. But only 06.88 per cent of weavers require above Rs.50, 000/- as

fixed capital investment.

As per the opinions of different categories of weavers regarding fixed capital

investment, majority of Independent weavers (31.11 per cent) and majority of Weavers

under Middlemen (34.09 per cent) require fixed capital investment of below Rs. 10,000,

whereas the highest percentages of Master weavers (46.67 per cent) and Cooperative

weavers (44.44 per cent) require fixed capital investment of Rs. 20,000/- Rs 30,000/-, but

majority of Labour weavers (40 per cent) require Rs. 10,000/- Rs 20,000 as fixed capital

investment. It can be concluded that the majority of different categories of weavers

require fixed capital investment of below Rs. 10,000/-

166

5.7. WORKING CAPITAL REQUIREMENTS OF VARIOUS WEAVERS

Working capital requirement of various respondent weavers of all categories are

depicted in the Table 5.7

Table-5.7

Working Capital Requirements of Various Weavers

Amount

in (Rs.)

Indepen dent

Weaver

Master

Weaver

Weaver under

Middle-men

Co-op Weaver

Labour

Weaver TOTAL

Below 10,000 13

(28.89) --

--

72 (54.54)

7

(38.89)

51 (53.68)

143

(46.88)

10,000 -- 20,000 18 (40.00)

1

(06.67)

37 (28.03)

5

(27.78)

34

(35.79)

95

(31.15)

20,000 - 30,000 10

(22.22) 4

(26.67)

11

(08.33)

5

(27.78)

10 (10.53)

40

(13.11)

30,000 - 40,000 3

(06.67)

2

(13.33)

8

(06.06)

1

(05.55)

--

--

14

(04.59)

Above 40,000 1

(02.22)

8

(53.33)

4

(03.03)

--

--

--

--

13

(04.26)

TOTAL 45

(100.00) 15

(100.00)

132

(100.00)

18

(100.00)

95 (100.00)

305

(100.00)

Source: Primary Data

Note: Figures in Parentheses indicate percentages to total.

It is noticed from the data presented in the above table, that the majority of the

respondent weavers constituting 46.88 per cent (143) need working capital of below

Rs 10,000/-; 31.15 per cent (95) of them require working capital ranging from Rs.

10,000/- to Rs 20,000/-. The data reveals that around 13.11 per cent of respondent

weavers (30) require working capital of Rs. 20,000/- to Rs 30,000/-. And out of the total

305 respondent weavers, only 04.59 per cent require working capital of Rs.30,000/-to

Rs 40,000/- and only 04.26 per cent of respondents weavers (13) require working capital

of above Rs. 40,000/-.

While interpreting category wise respondent weavers, it is observed that majority

of Independent weavers (40 per cent) require working capital of Rs. 10,000/- to

Rs 20,000/-. Most of the Master weavers (53.33 per cent) require working capital of

Rs. 40,000/- above and majority of respondent Weavers under Middlemen (54.54 per

167

cent), Cooperative weavers (38.89 per cent) and Labour weavers (53.68 per cent) require

working capital of below Rs10,000/-.

From the above analysis, it can be concluded that the working capital requirement

of the majority of weaver respondents is restricted to Rs 10,000/-.

5.8. OPINIONS OF RESPONDENTS ON PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

The data relating to the opinions of the respondent weavers on production

techniques is presented in the Table.5.8 which is further analysed.

Table-5.8

Opinion of Respondents on Improvement of Production Techniques

Techniques Independe

nt Weaver

Master

Weaver

Weaver

under

Middle

men

Co-op

Weaver

Labour

Weaver TOTAL

Govt, should

provide yarn

21

(46.67)

4

(26.67)

44

(33.33)

8

(44.44)

31

(32.63)

108

(35.41)

Reduction of cost

yarn

12

(26.67)

6

(40.00)

34

(25.76)

4

(22.22)

18

(18.95)

74

(24.26)

Direct

purchase of raw

yarn

4

(08.89)

-

-

28

(21.21)

3

(16.67)

14

(14.74) 49

(16.07)

Reduction of

employees

-

-

2

(13.33)

-

-

-

-

-

-

2

(00.65)

Technical

Training is

needed

-

-

-

-

12

(09.09)

3

(16.67)

12

(12.63)

27

(08.85)

New

technology

looms

8

(17.77)

3

(20.00)

14

(10.60)

-

-

20

(21.05)

45

(14.75)

TOTAL 45

(100.00)

15

(100.00)

132

(100.00)

18

(100.00)

95

(100.00)

305

(100.00)

Source: Primary Data

Note: Figures in Parentheses indicate percentages to total.

The data reveals that majority of respondent weavers of all categories (35.41 per

cent) have opined that Government should provide yarn, while a notable percentage of

respondents (24.26 per cent) have expressed the idea of reduction of cost of yarn, and

16.07 per cent of them think that the best technique to improve production is by direct

168

purchase of raw yarn. The respondent weavers constituting 14.75 per cent have felt the

best way of improving production techniques is by introducing advanced technology

looms.

It is also to be noted that 08.85 per cent of respondent weavers feel that technical

training is the only way to improve production techniques. But only 00.65 per cent of

weavers feel that the technique of reducing the number of employees is the best way to

improve production.

In the analysis of category wise opinions of various respondent weavers regarding

techniques to improve production, it is evidently observed that only Master weavers

constituting 40 per cent have opined that reduction of cost of yarn is the best technique to

improve production. Whereas majority of remaining respondents of all categories

comprising of Independent weaver (46.67 per cent), weavers under Middlemen (33.33 per

cent), Cooperative weavers (44.44 per cent) and Labour weavers (32.63 per cent) opine

that Government should provide yarn. They feel it as the best way to improve production.

So it is clear that majority of weavers of all categories feel that Government should

provide yarn to improve production of handloom prosperously.

169

5.9. INCOME AND EXPENDITURE OF WEAVERS IN VARIOUS SEASONS

The working period of all the weavers in a year is primarily classified into 3 types

namely, Busy season, Normal season and Slack season. As their names suggest, the

weavers enjoy best surplus during Busy season than that of during Normal and Slack

seasons. However the weavers have better surplus during Normal season than that of

Slack season, during which period they suffer deficit.

The particulars regarding the monthly incomes and expenditures of various

categories of respondent weavers during different seasons are given in the Table 5.9.

170

Table-5.9

Monthly Income and Expenditure of All Categories of Weavers during Various Seasons

(Value in Rs.)

Busy Season Slack Season Normal Season Total

Income Expen

diture

Surplus

or

Deficit

Income Expen

diture

Surplus

or

Deficit

Income Expen

diture

Surplus

or

Deficit

Surplus

or

Deficit

Independent

Weaver

1,595 1,135 + 460 493 947 -454 973 1,036 -63 -69

Master Weaver 2,146 2,041 + 105 813 1,713 -900 1,133 1,813 -680 - 1475

Weaver under

Middlemen

1,042 1,026 + 16 672 854 - 182 824 997 - 173 -339

Cooperative

Weaver

1,467 960 + 507 611 732 - 121 1,222 916 + 306 + 692

Labour Weaver 1,176 822 + 354 452 579 - 127 850 688 + 162 + 389

r = + 0.8954 r = +0.81717 r = +0.036080

PE = 0.0552 PE = 0.1002 PE = 0.26238

Source: Primary Data.

r = Coefficient of Correlation, PE = Probable Error

Note: Figures in Parentheses indicate percentages to total.

171

Regarding the surplus and deficit of respondent weavers of different categories it

is revealed that during Busy season Cooperative weavers have the highest average surplus

of Rs. +507, while their average income and expenditures are Rs. 1,467/- and Rs. 960/- in

each month respectively, followed by Independent weavers with average monthly surplus

of Rs. +460/- with their average monthly income of Rs. 1,595/-and average monthly

expenditure of Rs. 1,135/-. Labour weavers have an average monthly income of Rs.

1,176/- and expenditure of Rs. 822/- with a surplus of Rs. +354/-. Master weavers have

comparatively less monthly average surplus of Rs. +105/- with monthly average income

of Rs. 2,146/- and expenditure of Rs. 2,041/-, But the weavers under Middlemen have the

least monthly average surplus of Rs. + 16/- only with an average monthly income and

expenditures of Rs. 1,042/- and Rs. 1,026/-respectively.

Coming to Normal season, again the Cooperative weavers gain higher average

monthly surplus of Rs. + 306/- with average monthly income of Rs. 1,222/- and

expenditure of Rs. 916/-. Labour weavers unlike during busy season have average

monthly income of Rs. 850/- and expenditure of Rs. 688/- respectively, with a meager

surplus of Rs 162. Independent weavers have suffered deficit of Rs. -63/- since their

monthly expenditure (Rs. 1,036/-) exceeds their average monthly income (Rs. 973/-). The

weavers under middlemen have average monthly income of Rs. 824/- and their average

monthly expenditure during normal season is Rs. 997/-. So they have income deficit of

Rs. -173/-. Master weavers, though have average monthly income of Rs. 1,133/- which is

higher income average of all the respondents, their average monthly expenditure which is

Rs 1813/- exceeds their income, leading to deficit of Rs 680/- During Slack season

weavers of all categories of weavers suffer deficit of which Master weavers suffer the

highest average monthly deficit of Rs. -900/-, followed by Independent weavers of

Rs. -454/-. Weavers under Middlemen suffer less average-monthly deficit of Rs. -182/-,

whereas Labour weavers and Cooperative weavers suffer least average monthly deficits

of Rs. -127/- and Rs. -121/- respectively.

On the whole it can be concluded that the Cooperative weavers enjoy average

surplus of Rs. +692/-during all the seasons in a year, followed by Labour weavers who

have average surplus of Rs. +389/- in all seasons. Whereas the Independent weavers and

172

weavers under Middlemen suffer average deficit of Rs. -69/- and Rs. -339/- respectively

during all seasons in a year. But the Master weavers suffer the highest average deficit of

Rs. -1475/- during all the seasons in a year. To check the correlation of Income and

Expenditure of different categories of weavers during various seasons in the area of study

the correlation coefficient value of all categories of weavers during various seasons is

calculated.

Though all the correlation coefficients of all categories of weaves during all the

seasons gave positive values <1 (i.e. during Busy season r = +0.8954, Normal season

r = +0.36080 and Slack season r = +0.81717) the probably error value was also calculated

for each of all the three correlation coefficient values during all the seasons for better

significance.

The P.E. values during different seasons that is, Busy Season P.E = 0.0552,

Normal season P.E. = 0.26238 and Slack season P.E = 0.1002 when compared to their

respective correlation coefficient values denote that correlation of Income and

Expenditures of all categories of weavers are better during Busy and Slack seasons than

in Normal Season since the correlation, coefficient of Normal season is not more than 6

times of its P.E. but even less than 2 times. So it is clear that during Normal season when

the monthly Income of all categories of weavers have got decreased, the monthly

expenditures instead of decreasing, have increased resulting in deficit in the area of study.

5.10. WEAVERS AND TRAINING PROGRAMMES

The details of respondents who are trained under different training programmes in

the area of study is given in the Table 5.10

173

TABLE-5.10

RESPONDENTS UNDERGONE TRAINING PROGRAMMES

Training

Programme

Independen

t Weaver

Master

Weaver

Weaver

under

Middle

men

Co-op

Weaver

Labour

Weaver TOTAL

Technology

Training

6

(13.33)

3

(20.00)

4

(03.03)

2

(11.11)

2

(02.10)

22

(07.21)

Design

development

12

(26.67)

4

(26.67)

5

(03.79)

3

(16.67)

2

(02.10)

26

(08.52)

Dyeing

techniques

11

(24.45)

--

--

11

(08.33)

2

(11.11)

5

(05.27)

29

(09.52)

No Training 16

(35.55)

8

(53.33)

112

(84.85)

11

(61.11)

86

(90.53)

228

(74.75)

TOTAL 45

(100.00)

15

(100.00)

132

(100.00)

18

(100.00)

95

(100.00)

305

(100.00)

Source: Primary Data

Note: Figures in Parenthesis indicate percentages to total.

The data reveals that of the respondent weavers of different categories who have

undergone different training programmes, majority constituting 74.75 per cent have no

previous training in the area of study. However 09.52 per cent of them have been trained

in dyeing techniques, 08.52 per cent of weavers are trained in design development and

only 07.21 per cent of respondents have had technology training.

While interpreting category wise respondent weavers, it is observed that the

highest percentages of respondent weavers from all categories comprising of Independent

weavers (35.55 per cent), Master weavers (53.33 per cent), weavers under Middlemen

(84.85 per cent), Cooperative weavers (61.11 per cent) and Labour weavers (90.53 per

cent) have not undergone any training. The highest percentages of all categories have no

training. Independent weavers are well distributed in different training programmes with

24.45 of per cent in Dying techniques, 26.67 per cent in Design development and 13.33

of per cent weavers in technology training. Master weavers occupy the second place in

possessing better training, of whom 26.67 per cent trained in design development and 20

174

per cent in technology. Though small percentages respondent weavers under Middlemen

or Cooperative weavers have gone under different training programmes, they are

comparatively fewer than the weavers who have no training. The largest percentages

(90.53 per cent) of Labour weavers have no technical training and very minute

percentage of them have under gone through different training technologies. On the

whole, it can be stated that majority of weavers from all categories in the area of study

have no technical training,

5.11. LITERACY VS TYPE OF PRODUCTS OF RESPONDENTS

The particulars regarding the literacy levels of the respondent weavers versus

production of respondents are given in the Table 5.11.

175

Table 5.11

Literacy vs Type of Products of Respondents Product Cotton sarees Silk sarees Zari sarees Ceco sarees Dress

materials

Polyester

materials

Lungees Shirting Pattimarpu

cloth

Total

Literary

Illiterates 24

(25

.00

) 18

(18

.75

) 11

(11

.46

) 8

(08

.33

) 10

(10

.42

) 4

(04

.17

) 12

(12

.50

) 6

(06

.25

) 3

(03

.12

) 96

(100

)

(40.67) (36.73) (25.00) (34.78) (25.64) (44.44) (34.28) (17.65) (23.08) (31.47)

Literates 35

(16

.75

) 31

(14

.83

) 33

(15

.79

) 15

(07

.18

) 29

(13

.87

) 5

(02

.39

) 23

(11

.01

) 28

(13

.40

) 10

(04

.78

) 209

(100

)

(59.33) (63.27) (75.00) (65.22) (74.36) (55.56) (65.72) (82.35) (76.92) (68.53)

Total 59

(19

.34

) 49 (1

6.0

7) 44

(14

.42

) 23

(07

.54

) 39

(12

.79

) 9

(02

.95

) 35

(11

.48

) 34

(11

.15

) 13

(04

.26

) 305

(100

)

Calculated of Chi-square (2) = 9.0773, Table 0.05 = 15.50, 0.01 = 20.10

Source: Primary Data

Note: Figures in Parenthesis indicate percentages to total.

176

The data reveals that literates produce the highest percentage of all types of

products (68.53 per cent), than that of the illiterates who form 3 1.47 per cent.

The highest percentages of both literates and illiterates have produced cotton

sarees. Both literates and illiterates together constituting (16.07 per cent) produce silk

sarees stand at second position and 14.42 per cent of them who comprise of both literates

and illiterates produce Zari sarees and 12.79 per cent of respondent weavers produce

Dress materials, around 11.48 per cent and 11.15 per cent of weavers produce Lungees

and Shirtings, whereas 7.54 per cent of weavers of both categories produce CECO

materials and Pattimarpu Cloth is produced by least percentage (4.26 per cent) of

weavers.

Highest percentage of both illiterates (25 per cent) and literates (16.75 per cent)

mainly produce cotton sarees, but the second highest percentage (15.79 per cent) of

literates produce Zari sarees and least percentage (2.39 per cent) of literates produce

Polyester materials, whereas second highest percentage of illiterates (18.75 per cent)

produce Silk sarees and least percentage (3.12 per cent) of them produce Pattimarpu cloth

in the area of study.

On the whole, it can be concluded that literates produce the highest percentage of

all types of products than that of illiterates and the highest percentages of both literates

and illiterates produce cotton sarees and the least percentage of them produce Pattimarpu

Cloth.