Chapter 9waukeefcs.weebly.com/uploads/3/7/7/4/3774158/chapter_9_notes.pdf · Beyond Design By...

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Beyond Design

By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner

PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law

Copyright ©2009 Fairchild Books

•  All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means–graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems–without written permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-56367-960-5

GST R 133004424

Translating Concept to Product Chapter 9

Beyond Design

Chapter 9: Translating Concept to Product

© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 4

Chapter Objectives

•  Learn role of patternmaking processes within product development

•  Understand role of standards and specifications in product development

•  Identify stages and components of specification package

•  Understand importance of communication skills among partners in supply chain


© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.



Patternmaking

•  Patternmaking - interpretation of garment concept from either a sketch or another existing product, into a paper representation or model for use in production of finished garment style

•  Capabilities for projected product style must match original garment concept, yet also meet target customer expectations





Methods of Pattern Development

•  Flat Pattern—involves making styling changes to basic two-dimensional pattern – Sloper—five piece pattern of previously

developed and perfected basic body blocks – Select previously perfected final pattern or

body similar to new style – First pattern version usually made up in fabric

as first sample



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Pattern Drafting •  Begins from scratch for each garment

style •  First body measurements taken •  Style lines and ease added, resulting in

two-dimensional paper pattern •  Done by hand or digitally •  More time-consuming and costly; used by

higher-priced, fashion-forward producers





Reverse Engineering

•  Pattern made either by transferring measurements of another garment to paper or taking apart existing garment and tracing or digitizing outline of pieces

•  Cost-effective for production of basic garments





Draping •  Fabric draped or shaped around body

form to create three-dimensional garment prototype

•  Once fabric pattern is established, shaped fabric is flattened and its outline transferred to paper or digitized to create two-dimensional pattern blocks

•  Used for higher price points, especially with unique silhouettes





New Technologies

•  Cutting edge - draping styles directly on computer; elusive due to nature of body movements and variations in textile properties

•  Body scan technology - enables retrieval of three-dimensional body measurements from consumer, applied digitally to produce customized product





Patternmaking Needs

•  Design-Driven Product Development –  Integrity of design more important than

production efficiency – Willing to deal with more complex patterns and

construction – Fabrics less standard, markers vary in

efficiency, specialized sewing capabilities, smaller quantities

– Offshore contractors – May make in-house for accuracy and fit





Patternmaking Needs

•  Manufacturing-Driven Product Development –  “Commoditize” style by lowering level of

detail, uniqueness, or fit – Simplify construction techniques – Patterns made easy to sew to produce as

many finished garments at lowest possible price in timely manner



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Sourcing Patternmaking

•  Many advantages of In-house patternmaking within the firm – Fit - experience with target market allows

accommodations to meet customer expectations; market proximity allows for frequent fittings

– Rely on computerized systems to provide greater accuracy, pattern storage, grading, and customized dress forms





Patternmaking Services

•  Viable options for those without resources to hire own patternmakers (small start-up companies)

•  Computerized system gives accuracy and efficiency without investment

•  Located regionally so corrections made quickly and efficiently

•  Maintain files of previous work





Full-Service Contractors

•  Assume all responsibility for patternmaking, allowing developers to concentrate on their own core competencies

•  May be sacrificing consistency, fit, construction details across the brand

•  Common in Asia; Central and South America, Caribbean looking to compete





Additional Considerations

•  Patternmakers trained in different parts of world use different methods, different perceptions of body and proportions

•  Time required to check samples •  Lack of familiarity with English measurements •  Problem-solving and communication skills

important while working against the clock •  Possible duplication of effort





Standards

•  Firm’s strategic plan provides foundation for standards that define the business

•  Standards - characteristics used as the basis of judgments made about products

•  Established to reflect two major goals: – Enable company to make a profit – Meet target customer’s expectations





Standards

•  Framework for decision in development of product specifications

•  Understand firm’s specific standards for product sizing and fit, intrinsic quality standards that provide baseline for consistency of product, and performance standards for materials and finished product

•  Focus employee efforts



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Standards

•  Decided within the firm: styling requirements, construction methods, and measurements for samples

•  Imposed by outside agencies – FTC specific care, fiber identification labels – CPSC flammability standards for children’s

sleepwear •  If doing business outside United States,

standards such as metric measurements





Specifications

•  Specifications (specs) - graphic representations and written descriptions of styling, materials, dimensions, production procedures, and finishing instructions

•  Basis for communication with everyone involved in product development chain

•  Product developers must write and notate specs to be understood by sourcing partners





Specifications

•  Open specs - information provided is generic and contains only very basic facts; allows flexibility for producer or contractor

•  Closed specs - require exact materials or predetermine exact supplier; ensure consistency, but can increase end cost of product





Specifications

•  Tolerances - variation from identified criteria allowed during production; determine which products will be accepted for sale as first-quality products and which will be rejected

•  Products that do not fit within tolerances designated as seconds or irregulars

•  Legal and financial bargaining tools





Specification Development

•  Phase 1a: Design Specs, prototype specs, preliminary specs, or pre-adoption specs; focus: design, first samples – Based on line plan summary and initial

prototype garments for specific styles –  Include style summary sheet with drawing of

the front and back, and preliminary cost sheet with product cost estimates






•  Phase 1b: Costing – Preliminary cost sheet - completed with the

first sample •  Introductory record of style used to establish

cost of materials, labor, and other costs for production and distribution

• Helps estimate wholesale price charged by wholesaler when garment is sold to retailer or distributor



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– Phase 1b: Costing (continued) • General style information repeated from

original style summary sheet •  Fabric identification, including price and

quantity of yardage estimates •  Listing of trimmings or findings with their

quantity and cost estimates •  Estimate of labor costs for producing garment • Wholesale price and markup estimated






•  Phase 2: Technical Specs – Called technical specs, style specifications,

or the design spec package – Occurs after a style is adopted and requires

decisions as to how it will be produced – Focus on development of first production

sample and sales samples






•  Phase 2: Technical Specs; all information needed for style to be readied for production – Component Spec Sheet – Pattern Chart – Drawing of pattern pieces, with linings and

underlinings (interfacings) color coded – Sewing guides, marker diagram – Size chart






•  Phase 3: Production Specs or engineering specs for producing quantities of a product, rather than individual prototype garments

•  Emphasis on developing specs early in development process to secure production contracts

•  Operations list - identifies each step of construction to determine actual costs





Type of Spec Forms

•  Forms in spec package vary by product and firm

•  Need documentation for three phases: – Prototype costing – Sample – Production

•  Many computer firms specialize in product spec sheet software



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