90

SOME PEOPLE DISLIKE fishing because theynever catch anything. But, if you learn to catchfish, suddenly fishing is fun. Modeling is no

different. If we are unable to build good looking models,it’s no fun and we stop. Why are some modelers betterthan others? Are they smarter or more talented; do theyhave more time? No. They simply learned how to build.And then it became fun.

As a teenager I felt frustrated with my military models;they never looked as good as the ones in the store. I feltboth love and hate when I looked at the store models.That changed when I purchased Shepard Paine’s book,How to Build Dioramas. I realized I could absorb his

knowledge and duplicate his techniques. So read as manyhow-to publications as possible. Start a small library. Talkto other modelers and ask them how they do it. I copiedevery technique I used on my HO scale Clyde KinzeyFreight Company diorama from somebody else. So let meuse that diorama as a means to pass along some tips.

Collect kits for future projects. Visit hobby stores tolook for good models (I happen to prefer the unusual),then decide what you want to build. I have several kits inthe closet, some small and others major craftsman kits,each waiting until I have time to assemble it.

Think about a scene you want to create. Try to avoid

CHAPTER 5

THE CLYDE KINZEY

FREIGHT COMPANY DIORAMA

BY SCOTT KINZEYPHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR

91

perfectly flat terrain. Even the land in Kansas undulates. Istarted my diorama with an HO scale Sierra West “Rail-road Camp” kit. It included five buildings—too many forwhat I wanted. I also had a very old V&T Shops jib cranekit; it started me thinking about building a loading dockscene. So I analyzed the five Sierra West buildings andpicked three, including one with a loading dock, and putthe crane next to that structure.

A key to realism is to weather, stain, and dry brushall wood parts before you build the model. That mayseem awkward but it works. I wanted the paint on the jibcrane to appear very old and washed out. After distressingand weathering the wood (Sierra West provides a detailedinstruction book on the techniques with each kit), Istained each piece with red oil base paint. The exactcolor is unimportant; just pick one you like. Most of thetime my favorite color is the only one I have.

The next trick is to dilute the paint thinner than anout-of-the-bottle stain. Unless you thin it, you willobscure all the weathering detail. Put on a pair of latexrubber gloves to avoid staining your fingers. Your familywill appreciate that. Then dip a rag into the thinnedpaint and rub it onto the wood. The color should be

subtle enough for the weathered gray to show through.Leave some areas unstained. Notice how I stained onlythe swiveling part of my jib crane. The remaining un-stained parts provide contrast.

Conclude by dry brushing. I prefer to use water basepaints for that and my favorite brand is Apple Barrel,available at such stores as Wal-Mart.

The brush actually has more to do with the overalleffect than the paint. I use very soft (thin hair) brushes ofmedium stiffness. If the bristles are too thick they put toomuch paint on the model and if the brush is insufficientlystiff it lacks the ability to “rub off” the paint. Instead itjust deposits blobs.

I dip the brush in the paint, then try to remove mostof it on a scrap of cardstock. I brush the wood just enoughto hint at the color. Less is more! The more strokes ittakes to transfer the paint the better. You should feelalmost as though you are ruining the brush as you applythe color. Too much paint will destroy the finish. And, asyou work, imagine how things look outdoors in full sun.Where does the light fall? Mostly on the edges, so theyshould receive the most paint to produce a highlight effect.

Most people never will notice those paint highlights.

92

Instead they will perceive a three-dimensional effect and think you arean amazing artist as you think toyourself, “A six year old could dothat.” Sometimes the effect is so realit even fools you, and that is thegreatest joy of modeling.

Presentation is critical; adiorama’s base is worth considering.Before even starting it, complete allthe buildings. Then plan the scene soyou know how big the base should be.The overall size of my HO scalediorama is 18 by 14 inches. If youdisplay your dioramas, it helps to buildeach on a base of a different size. Icover each scene with a glass case.

Seeing a diorama under glasssomehow produces a much stronger

emotional effect. A glass casealso has two very practicalattributes. It keeps out dust andprevents people from touchingyour delicate model. A localglass company builds my cases.The cost is only a few dollarsfor eighth-inch thick glass.

The next step is to cut awood base. Avoid plywood orhardwoods; use high gradepressboard. It is very smoothand dense. I fill rough spotswith plaster before I paint thewood. I have used flat brownbut green or black also wouldwork well.

Set the glass case over thewood to determine the cutlines. I prefer the case to sit ontop of the base so, when I pick

up the diorama, the glass is part of it. In that event, thecut lines should be at least an eighth-inch beyond theouter edge of the glass.

The extra step of creating a beautiful base will drawthe viewer’s eye into the scene. Conversely, a crude baseis an eyesore and will detract from your model.

Use imagination to plan your scene. Diorama build-ing is entirely trial and error. I find it impossible tovisualize a three dimensional scene in my mind but, if Imove the components around long enough, I eventuallyarrive at something satisfactory.

I wanted to experiment with Bragdon Enterprisesgeodesic foam rocks so I built my diorama in two levelswith a road running up the back. I cut pieces of blue orpink builder’s insulation board to create elevation. Thenbreak out the hardcore stuff to glue down the sheets:

93

Liquid Nails. It is one of my favorite substances for fixinganything.

Also glue down any rock castings. You will see gapingholes and open areas between the rocks. Ignore them andpress on. At that stage of construction, even I havedoubted myself!

I use Sculptamold® to create the basic terrain. If youhave never worked with it, I recommend you try; it is atall train stores. Use it to fill those grotesque empty spaces.Work in the material with an old spoon. It takes verylittle time to master the technique. Avoid the temptationto paint the Sculptamold or mix paint into it; soon youwill cover all the terrain with dirt and rubble. Make sureany roads are smooth by dipping a two inch paintbrush inwater and leveling the surface.

Let the scenery base dry completely. It may requireseveral days. In the meantime consider the color you pre-fer for topsoil since the next step will be to color the rocks.

Credible rocks require a series of individual washesand each application must dry completely or the resultwill be a nondescript muddy mess. Again, dry brush therocks to suggest highlights from sunshine. The result willbe awesome.

Now for ground cover. I reel in stunned disbelief atthe number of imitation dirt products people buy at thehobby stores. Why would anybody do that?

Nothing looks more realistic than real dirt so forgetabout fake dirt; use the real thing.

Collect dirt samples when you go to the mountains. Eventhe dirt in your backyard will work. Sift it through sievesof at least two different sizes to yield grains of three sizes.

Re-sift the finest grains through panty hose. Exercisecaution as you steal your wife’s panty hose. And plan tokeep them because, once you have filled them with dirt,she probably will consider them defiled. If you are unmar-ried, I recommend against asking friends for pantyhose.They may get the wrong idea.

Use the finest dirt for roads and areas of heavy traffic.It should be of a lighter color to contrast with the rest ofthe soil. Sunshine on a dirt road makes it appear lighter.

Use plumber’s water putty to affix the dirt. It is adry, cream colored powder and mixes nicely with finesifted dirt. Gradually add powdered putty until you arriveat a lighter shade. Incidentally, sifted fireplace ash alsomakes excellent roads.

I apply all dirt by painting dilute glue onto the driedSculptamold. Squirt down the glue, then use an old brushto apply water. Mix it up right on the base. It’s messy buteasy. Sprinkle the sifted dirt over the glue. Some alsoshould land on rocks since, in nature, dirt is everywhere.Sift some coarser dirt and rubble onto the edges of theroad, near rocks, and wherever else seems appropriate.But the coarser earth is unable to soak up the watered-down glue mix. So how do you secure it?

I dislike the “wet water with glue” method. It alwaysseems to create bubbles in fine soil. Instead I use aspecial solution of one part matte medium, seven partswater, and two parts denatured alcohol to glue down

94

95

96

fine topsoil. Matte medium is available at any craft storeand denatured alcohol is at any general discount store.First use an eye dropper to “wet” the ground cover byapplying straight denatured alcohol. Then, with the sameeye dropper, apply the matte medium solution. It willsecure the finest dirt without causing bubbles.

While the ground cover is wet, add ground foam andother foliage. Also sprinkle ground-up leaves and barkfrom thin branches around the base of each tree. If youuse your wife’s blender to make that stuff it might be agood idea to buy her a new one. I recommend againstattempting to steal her blender because a female will killnot only to protect her young but also her blender.

Create tarps, such as the one on the small flatcar,from a bathroom tissue such as Kleenex. Toilet paper istoo flimsy. Cut a piece of tissue to the size of the tarp.Drape it over the item you want to cover and use a verysoft brush to paint on the same matte medium solution Idescribed above. As it soaks into the tissue it will adhereit to the item beneath (simulating the force of gravity).

Use the brush to push around the tissue to create curls,sags, and folds. When the paper is completely dry it willbe quite hard and you may stain it.

I do that with very thin water base paints. They soakinto the tissue and capillary action draws color to theedges while keeping it from whatever is underneath. Ifthe paint is too thick it will spread to adjacent parts andthe appearance will be unconvincing.

Add shadows when the color is completely dry. I use avery dilute dark stain (a solution of rubbing alcohol andblack shoe dye) and powdered black pastel chalk. Applyit between the folds where you would see shadows. Let itcompletely dry again, then dry brush the highlights anduse pastel chalks to simulate dirt.

I enjoy not only a finished model but also its creation.Some people may build better dioramas than mine butthat’s okay because I compare my completed models onlyto unassembled kits still in the box. And that remindsme: Next time you walk past the closet, open the door,take out a box, and give life to an unassembled kit. Yourmodel will thank you.