CHAPTER 21HAIRCOLORING

Haircoloring is•One of the most creative, challenging, and popular salon services •It is also the most lucrative !

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Add: Haircoloring is both the art and science of changing the color of hair.

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Why people color their hair

Add to side bar: just the #’s

1. Unpigmented hair (graying)Book: Cover or blend gray

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2. Self-image boostBook: Enhance an existing color

3. Experimental Book: create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression

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4. ArtisticBook: Correct unwanted tones

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5. . CorrectiveBook: Accentuate a particular haircut

Note: Either list can be used on the test, your choice

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F Y I :“Chlorine green” hair is caused by copper deposits from the water, that grab onto the hair. Only very light hair shows this reaction. Use a demineralizing shampoo, like Alternate Action and place under a dryer or use baking soda and water to remove deposits.

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Knowing how products affect the hair will allow you to make the best product choices for your client.

Hair Structure

Quick review of the structure of the hair.

Hair Facts

Q. What is the outer most layer of the hair called?

Q. What is the purpose of the cuticle?

Q. List two points about the cortex.

Q. How much of a role does the medula play in haircoloring?

Q. Why is texture, density and porosity factors we must consider when performing color services?

Texture: individual hair strand•Coarse, medium, fine

Melanin is distributed differently-refer to Figure 21-3

Fine hair texture•Takes color faster•Can look darker

Medium hair texture•Has average response to haircolor products

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Coarse hair texture•Can take longer to process

Density-hair per square inch•thin, medium, thick-dense

•Needs to be considered when applying haircolor

Q. How would this matter, and what do we need to do?

Porosity-ability to absorb liquid

•Porous hair accepts color faster~ darker than expected

end result

Q. Explain the step needed to do the test for porosity

•Resistant hair (low porosity) ~ requires more processing time

•Normal porosity (average) ~ processes in an average

amount of time

•Overporous (high) ~ takes color quickly

~ fades quicklywww.style-hair-magazine.com/images/foilhighli...

Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone

Q. What is the 1st thing Mrs. K and I do prior to creating a color formula?

Two types of melanin in the cortex:

•Eumelanin-black and brown •Pheomelanin-blond and red

•Natural hair color contains both (Mixed melanin)

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Contributing Pigment

• Known as “undertone”, is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during permanent color or lightening process

• The darker the natural level,the more intense the contributing pigment

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• Must be taken into consideration before the haircolor selection is made

• Haircoloring modifies this pigment to create new pigment

The Level System•Level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness•Saturation, density, or concentration of a color

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Level system*use to determine the

lightness or darkness of colors

•Arranged on a scale of 1-1 0-1 being the darkest

(black)-10 being the lightest

(pale blonde)

Add: Value-unit of measurement to evaluate lightness or darkness

Identifying Natural Level

•First step in haircolor service

•Valuable tool-color wheel

•Use haircolor swatch book

Demonstrate the four steps

Read: Here’s a Tip

1- Blue Black2- Black

3- V. Dk. Br

4- Dk. Brown

5- Med. Brown

6- Lt. Brown

7- Dk. Blonde

8- Med. Blonde

9- Lt. Blonde10-Lightest Bl. Natural Hair

Color Levels(this is the number system Mrs. Kucas and I follow. Page 632 is a little different)

Gray Hair•Associated with aging

~ heredity•Solid or blended ~ “salt and pepper” •Requires special attention in formulating

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•Color is the visible spectrum of light•Human eye only sees red, green, or

blue, or other shades

Color Theory

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•Before applying color products*have an understanding of

color theory***All are developed by primary

and secondary color

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•A base color is the predominant tone of a color

Ex. Violet base color=cool result*minimizes unwanted yellow

tones

Blue-base haircolor=coolest results*minimizes orange tones

Add:

Violet-green-blue=cool tones

Yellow-orange-red=warm tones

***Red-orange base*bright warm results

***Gold bases*brunettes to light blondes

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The Law of Color

•Is a system for understanding color relationships

•When combining colors, you always get the same result from the same combination

•Equal parts of: red and blue always =violet

blue and yellow always=green

red and yellow always=orange

Primary Colors

•Pure colors that cannot be created by combining other colors•All colors are created from these three primaries…

Blue

Red

Yellow

Primary Colors

•Predominance of blue *cool colors

•Predominance of red and or yellow *warm colors

•Blue is the strongest and the only cool primary color*brings depth or darkness to any

color

•Red is the medium primary color

* Red added to blue-based colors ~ appear lighter

•Red added to yellow ~ become darker

Yellow is the weakest of the primary colors

• yellow added to other colors ~ lighter and brighter

•All three primary colors present in equal proportions

* the color is brown

Secondary Colors

•Obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors

Green=blue and yellowOrange=red and yellowViolet=blue and red

Primary and Secondary Colors

Refer to the color wheel

Tertiary Colors•Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color with its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts

Blue-greenBlue-violetRed-violetRed-orangeYellow-orangeYellow-green

*test info*

Q. Why is it necessary to fully understand the law of color?

A. Natural-looking haircolor is made up of a combination of primary

colors, secondary colors, and tertiary colors

Complementary Colors•Are a primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel

•Complimentary color include blue and orange, red and green, yellow and violet and…

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• They neutralize each otherQ.What do we mean neutralize each other?

Complementary colors are used to: •Neutralize or refine unwanted tones in the hair•Help you choose the

correct color*review reference

guide page 635www.diycalculator.com/imgs/cvision-ryb-primar...

It’s easy to remember the complimentary colors:

Mrs. Kucas’ great idea

Green-red=Christmas

Blue-orange=almost Halloween

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Tone or Hue of Color

Add: Describes the warmth or coolness of a color

Tone or Hue of Color

•Answers-which color to use for clients desired result

•Warm, cool, or neutral (or tonality)

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•Warm tones look lighter*gold, orange, red, yellow

Use with clients: *auburn, amber, copper,

strawberry, bronze

Ex. Our tube says

6 RO=level 6 with red-orange toneTell client: dark strawberry blonde

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•Cool tones look deeper*blue, green, and violet

Use with clients:*smoky, ash, drab, or

platinum

Ex. 4B Level 4 brown with a blue tone

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• Natural tones (also called neutral tones) are warm tones

~ described as sandy or tan

Intensity-strength of a colors Add: tonality

•Described as soft, medium, or strong

•Color intensifiersAdd: color additives

are tones added to a haircolor formula to intensify the

results (show our intensifiers

• Base color is the predominant tone of a color

• Identified by a number and letter

• # indicates the level

• Letter indicates the tone

• Ex. 6G• Level 6-dark blonde

• With a gold base

• When selecting formula=know what tone the client likes and dislikes

*** client will say they do not want to see red-in many cases this would include gold (caramel)

• Neutral base colors are used to cover gray hair.

Types of Haircolor

Four categories:•Temporary•Semipermanent•Demipermanent•Permanent

Non-oxidative

Oxidative

Add next to nonoxidative:

Vegetable, flowers, herbs, salts of heavy metal

(veg. tints, metallic dyes, compound dyes)

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•Patch test required for all, except temporary color

Q. What is the purpose of a patch test?Q. Is a patch test required prior to using lightener (bleach)?

Q. What wording does the Cosmetology State Law give us that requires us to patch test prior to aniline derivative tints?

http://www.hennaforhair.com/ppd/index.html

Click on “a severe reaction to hair dye following sensitization from PPD temporary tattoo”

•All haircolor products and lighteners contain:

~ a developer (oxidizing agent) ~an alkalizing ingredient

Alkalizing ingredient-ammonia or an ammonia substitute is to:

•Raise cuticle of the hair fiber so tint can penetrate the cortex

•Increase the penetration of tints within the hair (oxidation

reaction)

•Trigger the lightening action of the peroxide

The next paragraph said differently:The alkalizing agent:

- opens the cuticle- the peroxide enters into the cortex

- breaks up the melanin (lighteners) - permanent color does this to a

lesser degree, then replaces it with new color

Temporary Color

Neutralize yellow hair or unwanted tonesQ. What tone would we use for this?

Q. What happens when a tone (like blue) is used and there is no

complimentary tone (yellow) ?

Just ask Mr. Herr !!!!!

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Top: Several applications of lightener, then toned with violet Bottom: used blue to

counter the yellow

•Pigment molecules are large*prevent penetration the

cuticle layer•Coating action only•Removed by shampooing•Nonoxidation color•Physical change not a chemical

change

•No patch test requiredTemporary haircolors are available in a variety of colors and products:

Q. If this product only coats the hair, how can it last for a week?

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•Colored mousses and gels

•Hair mascara/crayons for dramatic effects (or to hide gray regrowth)

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•Spray-on haircolor

•Color-enhancing shampoos:

-brighten -impart slight color-eliminate unwanted

toneswww.allproducts.com.tw/.../01-hair-l.jpgwww.cassidyinc.net/Images/ColoredShampoosBg.gif

Add all:

Coating- residue left on the outside of the hair shaft

Made from preformed dyes

Certified colors-standards for purity-FDA approved

Semipermanent Haircolor

•Nonoxidation color

•Not mixed with peroxide

•Last through several shampoos, *depending on the hair’s

porosity

•Partially penetrate the hair shaft *stain the cuticle

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*fades with each shampoo•Lasts about 4-6 shampoos

(used to be 4-6 weeks) Q. What do you think caused this

change?

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•Only deposits color•Does not lighten the hair

***No significant color change

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•Does not require maintenance of new growth•Far more gentle •Requires a patch test•Used right out of the bottle

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Add: (in very small writing)•no ammonia

*if mixed with an activator develops the color pigments within the formula (not in hair)

*swells the cortex

*opens the cuticle for color penetration

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Demipermanent Haircolor•No-lift deposit only haircolor***Lasts longer than semi

Add: penetrate the hair shaft•Less alkaline

*mixed with low volume developer

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ADD: No ammonia or low ammonia formula

•Uses alkalizing agents other than ammonia

*oxidizing agents other than peroxide

•Not necessarily less damaging•If milder, active ingredient is lower 4.bp.blogspot.com/.../s400/SHADES.png

•Introduces client to color serviceAdd: *vivid color results

*reverse highlighting•Blend or cover gray•Refreshes faded

permanent color•Color corrections•Restoring natural color

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•Deepens or creates a change in tone•Usually used on cold shaft and ends during a regrowth touch-up• Refreshes previously colored hair •Available in: gel, cream, or liquid•Requires a patch test

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Permanent Haircolor

•Lighten and deposit color at the same time

*single process*more alkaline

•Mixed with a higher volume developer•Used to match, lighten and cover gray www.beautyofnewyork.com/upload/lorealmajirel.jpg

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ADD: ***Contains: ammonia, oxidative

tints, and peroxide•Requires a patch test•Contain uncolored dye precursors

*very small *easily penetrate the hair shaft

•Called Aniline derivatives

•Combined with peroxide forms larger, permanent tint

molecules•Molecules are trapped in the cortex•Cannot be easily shampooed out•Lighten the natural color

*permanent change

Add:

Action- causes the hair shaft to swell and the cuticle to open

Ammonia- a colorless pungent gas composed of hydrogen and nitrogen, it is used in the haircolor to swell the cuticle

Soap cap:

•Equal parts permanent color mixture and shampoo

•Use last 5 minutes

•Worked through hair to refresh ends

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Permanent color:

•Best for covering gray hair

•Removes natural pigment

*through lightening

•At the same time adds artificial color

•Results=natural-looking color

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Add:

High-lift tinting-single process, higher degree of lightening action and minimal amount of color deposit

Review the 4 haircolor categories:Q. List the four categories of haircolor.

Q. If the desired color result is to stain the cuticle layer which type of haircolor would you choose?

Q. What color product provides a coating for the hair?

Q. Which product will give me the most vivid color results?

Q. What is happening to the hair during a permanent haircolor service?

Q. Out of the four categories which require a patch test prior to application?

Q. Out of the four which would be good for unpigmented hair?

Q. Which one causes a physical change in the hair shaft?

Natural and Metallic Haircolors

•Not used in salons•Include: natural, vegetable and metallic haircolors•Gradual colors•Repeated use creates a buildup

*grayish or green cast

Natural/Vegetable Haircolors•Henna-obtained from leaves or

bark of plants•Does not lightening/lift•Process can be lengthy and messy

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•Shade range is limited•Henna only available in clear, black,

chestnut, and auburn tones• No chemical services can be performed over natural hair colors due to coating on the hair shaft (uneven or undesirable results can be expected)

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Metallic Haircolors:•Called gradual colors and progressive dyes•Contain metal salts•Change hair color gradually by:

*progressive buildup *exposure to air

*creating a dull, metallic appearance

•Require daily application•Marketed to men•Unnatural-looking colors•Limited shade range

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FYI: not needed on test•Destroy sulfur-cross-links in the cortex-hair breakage or hair loss•Metals interfere with PW and our other chemicals (tint)

FYI con’t•Metals can be absorbed through the skin and reach dangerous levels in the body

•Users report: headaches, dermatitis reactions, facial swelling, & lead poisoning

•Removal of metallic colors is difficult and not recommended

•If hydrogen peroxide or any other chemical is added to a metal salt it will melt the hair•Read Caution page 639

1.In glass container, mix 1 ounce of 20 volume peroxide and 20 drops of 28% ammonia water.

2.Cut a strand of the client’s hair, bind with tape, and immerse in the solution for 30 minutes

3.Remove, towel dry, observe the strand

Test for Metallic Salts (pg. 583)*Needed for Chapter test*

Hair with lead-lightens immediatelySilver-no reaction (other chemicals

will not be able to penetrate the coating)

Copper-hair will start to boil and will easily pull apart (other

chemicals would severely damage or destroy the hair).

Other info to know for test:•Silver dyes fade to a green cast•Lead dyes fade to a purple cast•Copper dyes turn red

Hydrogen Peroxide Developers

•Is an oxidizing agent*when mixed with an oxidation

color*supplies oxygen gas to

develop color molecules *creates a change in natural

hair color

•pH between 2. 5 - 4. 5 •Others developers on market; peroxide is most common for haircolor•Different forms-liquid and cream

Volume: measures the concentration and strength of H2O2

Lower the volume=less lift is achieved

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•Higher volume=greater the lifting action

•10,20,30,40 are used for proper lift and color

development•Store-cool, dark place

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Add to side bar:

20 volume-one-two levels of lift

30 volume-two-three levels of lifts

40 volume-three-four levels of lift

10 volume-deposit only *does not cause enough lift

to consider

Add:

Stabilizers are added to prolong the life, appearance, and performance of product.

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Not in book-need to know:High-lift tint will allow you to achieve four levels of lift successfully. Many haircolor brands are mixed equal parts developer/tint.Ratio of 1:1High-lift tints are a ratio of 1:2

*use 40 volume developer

Tint Developer

Lighteners•Lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural pigment•H2O2 mixed with lightener begins to release oxygen•Known as oxidation

*happens within the cortex

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• To achieve a very pale blonde shade use a double-process application

• Known as a two-step coloring

• Hair is prelightened, then the depositing color is applied

• Using a lightener-up to 90 minutes

• Once hair is properly lightened, second step adds soft tone back to the hair

• Called toning process

• Toners-very light shade palette to add tone to decolorized hair

• Demipermanent colors, Level 8-10 are also used as toners

Lighteners are also used to achieve:•Lighten the hair prior to application of a final color•Lighten hair to a particular shade•Brighten and lighten an existing

shade

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Q. What situation would cause us not to be able to achieve a blonde shade?

A. If client wants a color lighter than 4 shades of lift. Remember tint can only go up 4 levels.

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•Lighten only certain parts of the hair

•Lighten dark natural or color-treated levels

The Decolorizing Process•Hair goes though different stages of color as it lightensAdd: Stages-visible color change

that natural hair goes through while being lightened

•depends on how much pigment the hair has•the strength of the lightening product •length of time it is processed•goes through as many as 10 stages

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Depicts how long it takes to lift thru the gold.

•Allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final result•First, the hair is decolorized to the

appropriate level•New color is applied to deposit the

desired color

•Lightening the hair to the correct stage is essential to a beautiful, controlled, final haircoloring result.

Q. If the client is a natural level 2 (very dark brown), and

wants to have level 7 (medium blonde) full head of color, what level of decolorization will I need to get to for a successful color?

•Toners*Semi-permanent*Demipermanent*Permanent haircolor products used primarily on prelightened

hair to achieve pale and delicate colors

*process up to 5 minuteswww.mynewhair.info/.../2008/10/05blonde.gif

•Not all hair will go through 10 stages of lightening•Each natural color starts at a different stage•Goal: is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result

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•Hair is never safely lifted past the pale yellow stage to white•Causes excessive damage to the hair strand•Result: wet hair feels mushy

and will stretch without returning to original length

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•When dry: hair is harsh and brittle•Often suffers breakage and will not accept toner properly•Baby-blonde look (Marilyn Monroe/Madonna) can be achieved by lightening to a pale yellow and neutralizing the unwanted undertone (contributing pigment) with a toner

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CONSULTATION•Most critical•First step in establishing a relationship with your client•Client will communicate what she is

looking for•Listen carefully so you can make the appropriate haircolor recommendations

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• Allow sufficient time ensure a client’s satisfaction

***Have proper lighting, walls should be a neutral or white color

Steps to include:1.Book client 15 minutes extra

Introduce yourself and welcomethem to the salon

Offer a beverageAllow no interruptions2. Have client fill out information card

-hair history-tells what kind of color service

client is looking for

-pay attention to client’s skin and eye color

-condition and length of hair, amount of gray

3. Look directly at clientask what they are thinking

about doing with hair color

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Ask leading questionsLet them talkYour questions might include:•Temporary or permanent change•All over or highlights•Conservative or dramatic

If you ask a client: do you want your color to whisper, talk or scream? You will gain a clear picture of how they want to look, how much of a highlight, or how light/bold the color is to be.

Describe what you would label your hair color as.

•Use people’s hair from the media to help describe an effect•Add shine to your hair?4. Recommend at least two different options5. Review the procedure and application techniques

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-cost of service and follow-up maintenance

-several steps may be needed to achieve result

-may not be able to afford it, have a more economical back-up solution ready

6. Be honest, do not promise the world-corrective color solutions

take time, let client know what you can do today and how many visits it will take to achieve desired look

7. Gain approval from the client

8. Start the hair color service9. Educate and inform client about home care, products, rebooking, what shampoo and conditioner is needed, how many weeks to the next service10. Fill out client haircolor card

Read both Caution Boxes and the Focus On

Release StatementQ. What statement can be made

about release statements in PA.?

Q. Name two haircolor safety precautions that will prevent injury to a client.A. Patch test and do not tint eyelashes or eyebrows with haircolor.

Formulation:•Four basic questions that must

always be asked when formulating a haircolor***Drape the client for a chemical service, and try to answer these four questions, then give us the answers when we come to help you formulate.**Need to know all four questions

for the test

1.What is the natural level? Is there any gray hair?

2.What is the client’s desired level and tone?

3. Are contributing pigments (undertones) revealed?

4.What colors should be mixed to get the desired result and what volume of developer?

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Formulation con’t:•Combination of the shade and the volume of H2O2

determines the lifting ability of a haircolor•Formulate with both lift and

deposit in mind

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Add:

Formulation: art of mixing to create a blend or balance of two or more ingredients.

•Higher lifting formulas may not cancel the warmth of a client’s natural contributing pigment•Volume of H2O2 mixed with the haircolor product will also influence the lift and depositEx. Bright reds

Q. Can I mix the color of the hair swatch that the client showed me she liked? Why or why not?Q. What will help me todetermine the tone that will be needed?Q. When you have a color client,

what will you do before calling Mrs.K or myself over?

Mixing Permanent Colors:•Method of mixing is determined by the type of application you are using•Applied by either bowl and brush or applicator bottle•Always follow manufacturer’s directions

Applicator bottle:•Large enough to hold color and developer, enough room to shake to mix the product•For ratio 1:1-pour 1 ounce developer into bottle, add 1 ounce of color, mixQ. What is another way to say ratio 1:1?

Equal parts

•For a ratio 1:2-one part high lift tint to two parts developer, orEx.-1 ounce tint to 2 ounces developer

Q. What is another way to say this ratio?

Double peroxide

•This is the ratio for high-lift blonde colors

MatrixSocolor3 ounce

tube

Most brands are 2 ounce tubes 1/2

1

1 1/2

2

2 1/2

*On test*

Let’s talk mixing

Brush and bowl:•Use nonmetallic bowl!!!!!•Measure developer into bowl•Add color/colors in appropriate proportions•Use applicator brush, stir to blend

Patch test info:•To determine any allergy or sensitivity to the mixture•Also called *predisposition test

*hypersensitivity test*sensitivity test*allergy test

•Must be given 48 hours prior to each application of an aniline derivative tint

Add all three:

•Must be the same tint brand and color that will be used on the hair

•Negative skin test/or result-shows no sign of inflammation

* color may be safely applied

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•Positive result-shows redness, rash, welt, swelling, itching, burning, blisters, open sores and breathing difficulties-do not use this product on your client

***You can patch test with a different brand of color, however I would expect them to be allergic to that as well.

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Result of using permanent haircolor on the eyebrows. Blindness may occur.(this client did a 48 hour patch test and it was negative)

*Read both Caution Boxes

The ingredient that people are allergic to is:Add: para-phenylenediamine or PPD. ***There are other ingredients that clients could be sensitive to as well, but this is the most common one.***About 1 in 100 react to haircolor.

***I have seen one case in 26 years

Q. Does it matter what level of developer is used in the patch test? Why or

why not?Q. What will determine how long the

patch test is to remain on the client’s skin?Q. What must we anticipate from a higher volume of developer than 20, when mixed with a level 6 haircolor?

Q. We know that we will pull more orange and red, so what complimentary tone must we include in the formula?

Haircolor Applications•Follow a prescribed procedure•Makes for greatest efficiency and the safest, most satisfactory results

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Preliminary Strand Test•Once formula is created-try it on a

small strand of hair•This will tell you how the hair will react to the formula and how long to process•The strand test is performed after the client is prepared for the coloring

service.

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Temporary Colors:•Apply to manufacturer’s directions

Semi-permanent Haircolor•Deposit only•Color applied over color always creates a darker color

•Porosity determines how well the products “take”

•Can build up on the ends•Strand test will determine the formula and processing time

***Strand test prior to rinsing out tints and lighteners

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Q. Explain the difference between a preliminary strand test and a strand test.

Demipermanent Haircolor

•Great way to introduce client to color

•Enhance their natural color

•Application is similar to semipermanent, FMD

Gray hair: special challenges

•Depth of color may appear too harsh

•Allow for some brightness and warmth

•Select a shade one level lighter*more natural-looking result

• Previous color service-greater degree of porosity

• Take into consideration when formulating and applying

FYI (whole page)Single Process tints:•Usually contain a lightening agent, shampoo, an aniline derivative tint, & an alkalizing agent to activate the added peroxide•Usually uses 20 volume developer•When using other volumes of developer, the results will be altered

Single-Process Permanent Haircolor• Lightens and deposits color in a single application•Includes: Virgin tint going lighter Tint retouch•Prelightening or presoftening is not

required

Single-process Color Retouch:*use a glaze (nonammonia) to add shine and tone the hair shaft and ends1. Retouch the new growth

*Do not overlap*causes breakage and a “line of demarcation”-visible line

separating colored hair from new growth.

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Done for effect

2. Process color according to your analysis and strand test results3. Refresh faded ends

* no-lift deposit-only haircolor

*rinse the color through the ends, shampoo/condition

Add: Shampoo two times for all lighteners and color services

Q. Explain why we would see a line of demarcation.

A. When the color is applied to porous hair (previously tinted) it will usually take a deeper tone than the new growth will, leaving you with a line of two colors.

Add: Line of Demarcation-obvious difference between two colors on the hair shaft

Double-Process Haircolor:

•Process of hair lightening

•Known as bleaching or decolorizing

•Diffusion of the natural hair color or artificial haircolor from the hair

Double-process Haircolor:•Dramatically lighter color •Prelightened first•To achieve pale or cool colors use double-process application•Decolorize with lightener

*then deposit desired tonewww.fotosearch.com/.../PDS/PDS160/rbrb_1253.jpg

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Modern day accelerating machines to process perms and color faster

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•Known as double process high-lift coloring and two-step

blonding1. Hair is prelightened first2. Then toned

•Prelightening lifts the natural pigments, before the toner *wider range of

haircolor possibilities

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•By prelightening the hair to the desired color you create a perfect foundation for longer- lasting red colors that avoid muddiness and stay true to tone

Add: Shampoo all color/lightener services 2 times

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•Prelightener is applied the same way as a regular lightening treatment•Once reached desired shade, lightly shampoo, acidify and towel dry•Do a strand test to ensure the

results of the toner•Apply color/toner in the usual mannerRead Focus On and Caution Box

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Using Lighteners•Choose from oil, cream and powder•Oil/cream: on-the-scalp lighteners•Powder: off-the-scalp lighteners

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On-the-scalp lighteners:*cream and oil, some powder*

•Easy to apply•Oil-mildest

*one or two levels of color lift is desired

•Used professionally to lighten dark facial and body hair

•Cream*strong enough for high-lift

blonding•Gentle on scalp•Conditioning agents that give some protection to hair and scalp•Thickeners give more control during application

•Do not run or drip, overlapping is prevented during retouch services•May be mixed with activators (boosters, protinators, accelerators) in the form of dry crystals. ON TEST•Activators

*powdered persulfate salts*increase lifting power

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•More activators, the lighter the hair •Up to 3 for on-the-scalp•Up to 4 off-the-scalp•Increase scalp irritation

Powdered Off-the-scalp lighteners:•Quick lighteners•Strong, fast acting powder•Dry out more quickly

*cover with plastic cap•Do not run or drip•Expand and spread out

Time factors:•Darker the hair, more melanin, takes longer•Influenced by porosity, lightening agent can reach the cortex faster•Tone-more red, more difficult to achieve pale delicate shades•Ash blondes are difficult to achieve

•Strength of product affects the timing•Heat leads to quicker timing

***use infrared lamps •Stage of lightening must be observed to avoid excessive lift•If lightened beyond desired foundation toner may not develop properly in the hair shaft

•When this occurs, the toner shade may “grab” the base color, giving an ashy, cool tone

Preliminary Strand Test *determines processing time

*condition of hair *end result

•Watch strand for any discoloration or breakage

•Recondition if needed prior to toning•Carefully record all data on client’s card•If test shows hair is not light enough, increase strength of mixture and/or processing time

•If strand is too light, decrease the strength of mixture and/or

decrease the processing time•Patch test done prior to application of a toner***Save time-strand test and patch

test the same day

Read both Caution boxes

Lightener retouch:•New growth

*part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been colored

•Applied only to the new growth

Q. Name the application that must be used for a successful retouch on this client.

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• Use cream lightener for retouch• Less irritating to the scalp• Helps prevent overlapping

*overlapping can cause severe breakage or lines of demarcation

• Consult record card*lightener formula, timing

and other matters

Using Toners•Primarily used on prelightened hair

*achieve pale, delicate colors•Requires double-process application

-application of lightener-application of toner

*no-lift deposit only

•Contributing pigment*color that remains in the

hair after lightening(foundation)

•Achieve the correct foundation *to create the right color and

degree of porosity required for proper toner development

Contributing pigment needed for a light red color

•Manufacturer’s will include literature recommending

the foundation necessary to achieve the desired color

•Paler the desired color the lighter the foundation

•Overlightened hair will “grab” the base of the toner

•Underlightened hair will appear to have more red, yellow, or orange than the intended color•Do not prelighten past the paleyellow stage•This creates overporous hair that will have inadequate amounts of natural pigment left in the cortex for the toner to bond to

•Refer to law of color to select a toner *neutralize or compliment

Toner Application•Patch test required/***strand test•Proceed with application only if the patch test is negative and the hair is in good condition

• Speed and accuracy in applying is important

*determines whether you get good color results

Procedure-check with instructorQ. What would your first instinct be

for the procedure?

Special effects haircoloring:•Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring

*pure fashion techniques

•Versatile and exciting

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•Strategically placing lightand dark colors in the hair

•Highlighting involves coloring strands lighter than

natural color* illusion of depth

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•Light colors appear larger•Makes details more visible•Reverse highlighting or low lighting

colors strands darker than the natural color•Contrasting dark areas

recede, appear smaller•Make detail less visible

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•As you expand your knowledge, you will become more creative

•Possibilities are limited only by your imagination

Techniques for highlighting•Cap•Foil •Balayage or free-form

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Cap technique:•Involves pulling clean, DRY strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal needle •Comb to remove tangles•# of strands pulled determines the amount of highlighting or lowlighting

•Small # pulled effect will be subtle•Noticeable effect when many are

pulled though•Caution: the density of the client’s hair must be considered

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•For high/lowlighting-apply lightener or any haircolor

FYI **when desired shade is reached-rinse product off of cap (if lightener is used, cool water)

-add small amount of shampoo-untie and slide cap off

-wet down all hair-shampoo twice, condition

•Do this except if a toner is needed after the lightener

FYI To tone:*rinse lightener off of cap with

cool water* add small amount of shampoo* cleanse off bleach* rinse out with cap on* towel dry hair thoroughly*dry with blow dryer* add toner and process.

When toner is finished proceed as before.

Go under cap to erase a pull that is too thick

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***use caps only on shorter hair/never long hair

Foil Technique:•Involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections

* placing them on foil or plastic wrap

*applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the foil or plastic•Use permanent haircolor for softer looks/red HL

•Placing foil in hair is an art•Takes practice and discipline•Slicing-take 1/8th” section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp•Position hair over the foil•Apply lightener/color•Carefully close the foil while preventing the foil from slipping

Fold all foils on a diagonal line to prevent foils from slipping.

Show movie

Be sure the top is no longer or shorter than the parting

•Weaving-selected strands are picked up from a narrow (1/8th”) section of hair• use a zigzag motion of the comb•Place hair over foil•Apply lightener or color•Carefully close the foil while preventing the foil from slipping

•Many patterns that foils can be placed in the hair

•Face-frame, half-head, three quarter head, full-head•To produce different highlights in

different portions of the head

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Foil retouch: Apply product to the regrowth only-not the entire strand

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Balayage technique:•Or free-form, involves painting of

a lightener (usually powder lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair

•Applied with tint brush or a tail comb from base to ends

around the head•Extremely subtle/used to draw

attention to the surface of the hair or…

Very bold effect done on blonde hair

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Will look “sun kissed”

Toning overhighlighted and dimensionally colored hair:•When hair is decolorized to the desired level

*toner may not be necessary•If a cool tonality is desired, use a toner to cancel any undesirable yellow contributing pigment

•An oxidative toner will add color to the highlighted strands

* it might also causing a slight amount of lift to the natural, or pigmented hair

***Result may be uneven tonality *warmth brought out

•Strand test to ensure best results

Avoiding untreated hair options:•Use a nonoxidative toner

*no ammonia-no developer (thus

no lift)•Is gentler on the scalp and hair

•Semipermanent color can be used (deposit/no lift)•Always check with the manufacturer’s color chart for the base color of your chosen toner, to ensure that when the toner combines with the contributing pigment, gives you the exact tone you want

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•Use a demipermanent haircolor*deposit only without

ammonia•Lasts longer than temporary or

semipermanent toner

Highlighting Shampoo Prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo•Slight change in shade is desired

*Or when a client’s hair processes very rapidly

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•Highlights the hair’s natural color in a single application

•No patch test is required****Other:•Mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide •Natural color is slightly lightened•No patch test required•Follow manufacturer’s directions

Special problems in haircolor/corrective coloring

•Each haircoloring service is unique and can present unique challenges•Complete client

consultation and analysis of hair is

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•Strand tests *satisfactory final results

•Even the most skilled colorist will occasionally have a problem that could not be predicted

Gray hair: Challenges and Solutions

•Gray, white, and salt and pepper hair all have characteristics that present unique coloring challenges

•Gray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough

Yellowed Hair:•Gray hair with a yellow cast is caused by:•smoking•medication•Sun exposure •hair sprays and

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•Lighteners and tint removers can help remove yellow discoloration•Can be overpowered (neutralized) by the deposit of violet-based colorsAdd: Discoloration-development

of undesired shades through chemical reactions

Q. What is the problem when we see someone with blue or violet hair? (Mr. Herr’s blue haired ladies)

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Formulating For Gray Hair:•Accepts the level of the color applied•Level 9 or higher may not give complete coverage (not enough pigment)Add: Coverage-ability of a product to color unpigmented , white, or other colors of the hair

•Level 7 or darker will cover better, can be used for pastel & blonde tones

Before and after:

Lowlights in gray hair

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Q. What effect would a lighter color

have on this client?

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•For 80-100% gray-blonde range is better

•Selected color can be warm or cool depending on skin, eye color and preference

Q. What theory can you state about why the hair changes to gray?A. As we age skin, eye color and hair lose pigment/part of aging process

•Salt and pepper (low percentage of gray)

*color on color will always make a darker tone

•To compensate: use a shade 2 levels lighter than the natural dark hair

•Always strand test

•Follow the chart-table 21-5 and manufacturer’s product color chart•Take into account client’s:

*personality*personal preferences*amount of gray and it’s location

Location: -majority gray in the front

section-formulate on percentage of

gray hair the client sees-hair that surrounds the

face influences the client’s self-image

Tips for Achieving gray Coverage:

•Level 7 medium-blonde or deeper•20 vol. developer

•Process 45 minutes

•Add neutral or neutral (warm tone)in percentages that follow

•High-lift blonde will not cover gray hair

•Use Level 7 then add highlights

Presoftening:•Gray hair can be resistant•Raises the cuticle

*allows better penetration of color

•Acts like a stain

• Presoftener is applied, processed, and removed

• Then haircolor is applied• Allow to process 15 minutes or

FMD • While presoftening the resistant

areas, mix and apply final formula to the rest of the head

***To presoften:•Mix according to manufacturer’s directions•Apply to most resistant areas first•Process room temperature 5-20

minutes/FMD•Wipe color off gently with towel

to remove

•Next, apply desired level and tone to achieve end results

Or use Mrs. Mandato’s “Primer”•Chemistry is different, this is not a presoftening technique•In clinic, when one of us is working with you use their technique, learn both, then you decide which to use

Rules for Effective Color Correction

•Color may not come out as expected•Problems can be corrected

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Q. What is the main reason this color needs correcting. Determine what tone would be better and why.

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1.Do not panic2.Determine the nature of the

problem3.Determine what caused the

problem4.Develop a solution5.Always take one step at a time

Keep in mind:

6. Never guarantee an exact result7. Always strand test for accuracy

Damaged Hair:•Blow-drying, wind harsh shampoos, and chemical services affect the condition of the hair

•Coating compounds:*hairspray *styling agents*some conditioners can

block color penetration

***Heavy coatings/shampoo and dry hair under dryer for better results

Hair is considered damaged with one or more of:

•Rough texture•Overporous condition•Brittle and dry

•Susceptible to breakage•No elasticity•Becomes spongy and matted when wet•Color fades or grabs too dark

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•Any of these conditions can create problems during tinting, lightening, PW, or hair relaxing treatments•Give reconditioning

treatments prior to, and after the application of these chemical processes

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Tips for damaged hair:•Use a penetrating conditioner that deposits protein, oils, and moisturerich ingredients

•Complete each chemical service with a low pH finishing rinse

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Q. What do we use here that is an acidic finishing rinse?

Q. What effect will Reginal have in the hair?

•Postpone any further chemical services until hair is

reconditioned

•Schedule client for between-service conditioning•Recommend retail products for

use at home to prepare for the next service

Q. If the damage to the client’s hair is your fault, do you

charge for conditioning treatments or home care products? If client’s fault, same Q?

Fillers:•Equalize porosity

***Can be ready-made by manufacturer or are prepared by mixing haircolor and

conditioner

Allure.com

•Two types:•Conditioner fillers and

color fillers•Conditioner fillers

*recondition damaged, overly porous hair

*equalize porosity•Apply in a separate procedure or

immediately prior to color application www.cheniceprosalon.com/color_filler%5B1%5D.jpg

•Color fillers •Equalize porosity•Deposit color•Uniform contributing pigment•Use no-lift deposit only haircolor (demipermanent)

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Advantages:•Deposit color to faded ends and hair shaft•Help hair to hold color•Prevents streaking and dull appearance

Add: Faded-to loose color through exposure to the elements, or other factors

•Prevents off-color results•Produces more uniform, natural-looking color in a tint•Produces uniform color

when doing a tint back

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Selecting the Correct Color Filler

•All three primary colors must be present*looks natural

Ex. Blonde hair to Brown: Yellow Blue orange-red is needed

•To correct unwanted haircolor:

*use the complementary color that is missing

Yellow blonde hair*corrected with violet

Orange blonde hair*corrected with blue

Adding blue to yellow hair*makes green

Haircolor Tips for Redheads•Exciting and fun•Fading common problem•Artificial pigment within the hair

shaft continues to oxidize and fade

***Use lower volume developer to prevent fading and brassiness

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Tips:•To create warm coppery reds

*red orange base color•To create hot fiery reds

*red-violet or true red colors•After hair has been colored with permanent haircolor

*use no-lift deposit only on hair shaft and ends

•If gray hair*add ½ to 1 ounce of

neutral/natural color

***gray hair will pick up the pure base of the color, your results could be

bright orange or bright pink

•To brighten:

*use soap cap

*equal parts shampoo and remaining color before rinsing

Haircolor Tips for Brunettes:

•Avoid orange or brassy tones*use cool blue base

Add: Red, orange, or gold tones use “drabber” to reduce red

or gold highlights

•Avoid unwanted brassy tones*do not lighten more than 2 levels above natural color

•Add 1 ounce neutral/natural color to cover gray

•Highlights in brunettes*deep or caramel colored

*less maintenance

than

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FYI Special effects highlighting•Tone on tone•Reverse highlighting•Scrunching•Shoe-shine•Balayaging•Color mapping•Twisted highlights

*on hair*on foil

Color mapping

Hji.co.uk

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Q. How much money would a salon quote as a price for a client that enters the salon with green hair?

A. Never quote a price unless you have strand tested each step. Problems can still arise, so I recommend that you give yourself a safety net and say “corrective hair color starts at $_____”.

Q. How much time will you tell your client that a corrective haircolor service will take?

Haircolor Tips for Blondes:

•Popular, profitable, fun

•Possibilities are endless

•Lightening brown to blonde

*underlying unwanted warm tones

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•Covering gray*use Level 7 or darker

•Double-process blonde*pale blonde results

•If high-lift blondes are used on Level 4 or below*results too warm or

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If highlights become too blonde

*lowlights or deeper strands foiled in

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Common Haircolor Solutions

•Refresh faded color

*demipermanent

*stay within two levels of your formula

*apply all over-process up to 10 minutes

Green cast:*build up of minerals

~well water~chlorine

*remove the mineral buildup

*apply demipermanent color to neutralize unwanted

color

Add: “drab” describes no red or gold.

Overall Haircolor is Too light:

•Result of incorrect formulation

•Apply no-lift haircolor one-two levels darker

Overall Color is Too Dark:

Add: 1st try Dawn dish detergent to fade or spot lightening

•Determine how much color needs to be removed

•Use haircolor remover

•Process 10 minutes

•Designed to remove artificial pigment

•Once achieved desired color, rinse and shampoo

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Tint back:

What steps will be needed to achieve the natural haircolor?

Restoring Blonde to Natural Haircolor

***called Tint Back

•Can be tricky

•Client may not like it

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•1st soften new growth *level 6 violet base/20 vol*apply to scalp*process 30 minutes, rinse

•Next,*apply no-lift deposit only glaze

-1 oz. Level 8-1 oz. Level 9 red-orange

*to all lightened hair-not to scalp area-process 20 minutes, rinse,

shampoo, towel dry

Finally*no-lift deposit only glaze

*2 oz. Level 6

*apply scalp to ends

*process 20 minutes-check every 5 minutes

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Haircoloring Safety Precautions*** need 5 for the testGive patch testDo not apply if abrasions are presentDo not apply if metallic or compound tint is presentDo not brush hair prior to tint-can be picked, avoid scalp

Read and follow manufacturer’s directionsUse cleaned and disinfected applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towelsProtect clothing with a chemical drapeDo strand test

Only use glass or plastic to mix productDo not mix tint/ lightener before ready to use; discard leftover productWear glovesDo not allow color to get in the client’s eyes

Do not overlap tint or lightenerUse mild shampooAlways wash hands before and after service

Read Caution and Focus On

FYI Haircoloring offers: *opportunity to exercise your

creative impulses *will bring great pleasure to

your clients*enjoy and appreciate all the

learning you need to do, now and in the future

*techniques, fashions,and formulations constantly change

*keep learning new techniques

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