Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittingsunix.rulez.org/~calver/haynes_manuals/peugeot_405/1559-11.pdf ·...

11

Chapter 11Bodywork and fittings

Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Body front panel assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . .16Boot lid lock components (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . .17Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Central locking components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .14Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15Electric window components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Exterior mirrors and associated components - removal and refitting . .22Facia assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Front bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Interior trim - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Rear bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Seat belt components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Sunroof - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Tailgate and support struts (Estate models) -

removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Tailgate lock components (Estate models) - removal and refitting . .19Windscreen, tailgate and fixed window glass - general information . .23

11•1

Contents

1 General information

The bodyshell is made of pressed steelsections, and is available in 4-door Saloonand 5-door Estate configuration. Mostcomponents are welded together, but someuse is made of structural adhesives. The frontwings are bolted on.

The bonnet, doors and some othervulnerable panels are made of zinc-coatedmetal, and are further protected by beingcoated with an anti-chip primer prior to beingsprayed.

Extensive use is made of plastic materials,mainly in the interior, but also in exteriorcomponents. The front and rear bumpers andthe front grille are injection-moulded from asynthetic material which is very strong, andyet light. Plastic components such as wheelarch liners are fitted to the underside of thevehicle, to improve the body’s resistance tocorrosion.

2 Maintenance -bodywork and underframe 1

The general condition of a vehicle’sbodywork is the one thing that significantly

affects its value. Maintenance is easy, butneeds to be regular. Neglect, particularly afterminor damage, can lead quickly to furtherdeterioration and costly repair bills. It isimportant also to keep watch on those partsof the vehicle not immediately visible, forinstance the underside, inside all the wheelarches, and the lower part of the enginecompartment.

The basic maintenance routine for thebodywork is washing - preferably with a lot ofwater, from a hose. This will remove all theloose solids which may have stuck to thevehicle. It is important to flush these off insuch a way as to prevent grit from scratchingthe finish. The wheel arches and underframeneed washing in the same way, to remove anyaccumulated mud which will retain moistureand tend to encourage rust. Strangelyenough, the best time to clean the underframeand wheel arches is in wet weather, when themud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wetweather, the underframe is usually cleaned oflarge accumulations automatically, and this isa good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, it is agood idea to have the whole of theunderframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,engine compartment included, so that athorough inspection can be carried out to seewhat minor repairs and renovations arenecessary. Steam-cleaning is available at

many garages, and is necessary for theremoval of the accumulation of oily grime,which sometimes is allowed to become thickin certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities arenot available, there are one or two excellentgrease solvents available, which can bebrush-applied; the dirt can then be simplyhosed off. Note that these methods shouldnot be used on vehicles with wax-basedunderbody protective coating, or the coatingwill be removed. Such vehicles should beinspected annually, preferably just prior toWinter, when the underbody should bewashed down, and any damage to the waxcoating repaired. Ideally, a completely freshcoat should be applied. It would also be worthconsidering the use of such wax-basedprotection for injection into door panels, sills,box sections, etc, as an additional safeguardagainst rust damage, where such protection isnot provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with achamois leather to give an unspotted clearfinish. A coat of clear protective wax polishwill give added protection against chemicalpollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheenhas dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polishercombination to restore the brilliance of theshine. This requires a little effort, but suchdulling is usually caused because regularwashing has been neglected. Care needs tobe taken with metallic paintwork, as specialnon-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

avoid damage to the finish. Always check thatthe door and ventilator opening drain holesand pipes are completely clear, so that watercan be drained out. Brightwork should betreated in the same way as paintwork.Windscreens and windows can be kept clearof the smeary film which often appears, by theuse of proprietary glass cleaner. Never useany form of wax or other body or chromiumpolish on glass.

3 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets 1

Mats and carpets should be brushed orvacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them freeof grit. If they are badly stained, remove themfrom the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,and make quite sure they are dry beforerefitting. Seats and interior trim panels can bekept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If theydo become stained (which can be moreapparent on light-coloured upholstery), use alittle liquid detergent and a soft nail brush toscour the grime out of the grain of thematerial. Do not forget to keep the headliningclean in the same way as the upholstery.When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.Excessive damp could get into the seams andpadded interior, causing stains, offensiveodours or even rot. If the inside of the vehiclegets wet accidentally, it is worthwhile takingsome trouble to dry it out properly, particularlywhere carpets are involved. Do not leave oil orelectric heaters inside the vehicle for thispurpose.

4 Minor body damage - repair 2Repairs of minor scratches in bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and doesnot penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area ofthe scratch with a paintwork renovator, or avery fine cutting paste, to remove loose paintfrom the scratch, and to clear the surroundingbodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area withclean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using afine paint brush; continue to apply fine layersof paint until the surface of the paint in thescratch is level with the surroundingpaintwork. Allow the new paint at least twoweeks to harden, then blend it into thesurrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratcharea with a paintwork renovator or a very finecutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated rightthrough to the metal of the bodywork, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair technique

is required. Remove any loose rust from thebottom of the scratch with a penknife, thenapply rust-inhibiting paint, to prevent theformation of rust in the future. Using a rubberor nylon applicator, fill the scratch withbodystopper paste. If required, this paste canbe mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide avery thin paste which is ideal for filling narrowscratches. Before the stopper-paste in thescratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip thefinger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweepit across the surface of the stopper-paste inthe scratch; this will ensure that the surface ofthe stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. Thescratch can now be painted over as describedearlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodyworkWhen deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is topull the dent out, until the affected bodyworkalmost attains its original shape. There is littlepoint in trying to restore the original shapecompletely, as the metal in the damaged areawill have stretched on impact, and cannot bereshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to apoint which is about 3 mm below the level ofthe surrounding bodywork. In cases where thedent is very shallow anyway, it is not worthtrying to pull it out at all. If the underside of thedent is accessible, it can be hammered outgently from behind, using a mallet with awooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,hold a suitable block of wood firmly againstthe outside of the panel, to absorb the impactfrom the hammer blows and thus prevent alarge area of the bodywork from being“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of thebodywork which has a double skin, or someother factor making it inaccessible frombehind, a different technique is called for. Drillseveral small holes through the metal insidethe area - particularly in the deeper section.Then screw long self-tapping screws into theholes, just sufficiently for them to gain a goodpurchase in the metal. Now the dent can bepulled out by pulling on the protruding headsof the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removalof the paint from the damaged area, and froman inch or so of the surrounding “sound”bodywork. This is accomplished most easilyby using a wire brush or abrasive pad on apower drill, although it can be done just aseffectively by hand, using sheets of abrasivepaper. To complete the preparation for filling,score the surface of the bare metal with ascrewdriver or the tang of a file, oralternatively, drill small holes in the affectedarea. This will provide a really good “key” forthe filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section onfilling and respraying.

Repairs of rust holes or gashes in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,and from an inch or so of the surrounding“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or awire brush on a power drill. If these are notavailable, a few sheets of abrasive paper willdo the job most effectively. With the paintremoved, you will be able to judge the severityof the corrosion, and therefore decidewhether to renew the whole panel (if this ispossible) or to repair the affected area. Newbody panels are not as expensive as mostpeople think, and it is often quicker and moresatisfactory to fit a new panel than to attemptto repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,except those which will act as a guide to theoriginal shape of the damaged bodywork (egheadlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips ora hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal andany other metal badly affected by corrosion.Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, inorder to create a slight depression for the fillerpaste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove thepowdery rust from the surface of theremaining metal. Paint the affected area withrust-inhibiting paint; if the back of the rustedarea is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will benecessary to block the hole in some way. Thiscan be achieved by the use of aluminium orplastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibrematting is probably the best material to usefor a large hole. Cut a piece to theapproximate size and shape of the hole to befilled, then position it in the hole so that itsedges are below the level of the surroundingbodywork. It can be retained in position byseveral blobs of filler paste around itsperiphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small orvery narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trimit to the approximate size and shape required,then pull off the backing paper (if used) andstick the tape over the hole; it can beoverlapped if the thickness of one piece isinsufficient. Burnish down the edges of thetape with the handle of a screwdriver orsimilar, to ensure that the tape is securelyattached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling and respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sectionson dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gashrepairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, butgenerally speaking, those proprietary kitswhich contain a tin of filler paste and a tube ofresin hardener are best for this type of repair.A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator willbe found invaluable for imparting a smoothand well-contoured finish to the surface of thefiller.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of cardor board - measure the hardener carefully(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or tooslowly. Using the applicator, apply the fillerpaste to the prepared area; draw theapplicator across the surface of the filler toachieve the correct contour and to level thesurface. As soon as a contour thatapproximates to the correct one is achieved,stop working the paste - if you carry on toolong, the paste will become sticky and beginto “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue toadd thin layers of filler paste at 20-minuteintervals, until the level of the filler is justproud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excesscan be removed using a metal plane or file.From then on, progressively-finer grades ofabrasive paper should be used, starting with a40-grade production paper, and finishing witha 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrapthe abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,or wooden block - otherwise the surface ofthe filler will not be completely flat. During thesmoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-dry paper should be periodically rinsed inwater. This will ensure that a very smoothfinish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should besurrounded by a ring of bare metal, which inturn should be encircled by the finely“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.Rinse the repair area with clean water, until allof the dust produced by the rubbing-downoperation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat ofprimer - this will show up any imperfections inthe surface of the filler. Repair theseimperfections with fresh filler paste orbodystopper, and once more smooth thesurface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper isused, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners,to form a really thin paste which is ideal forfilling small holes. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied thatthe surface of the filler, and the featherededge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean therepair area with clean water, and allow to dryfully.

The repair area is now ready for finalspraying. Paint spraying must be carried outin a warm, dry, windless and dust-freeatmosphere. This condition can be createdartificially if you have access to a large indoorworking area, but if you are forced to work inthe open, you will have to pick your day verycarefully. If you are working indoors, dousingthe floor in the work area with water will helpto settle the dust which would otherwise be inthe atmosphere. If the repair area is confinedto one body panel, mask off the surroundingpanels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodyworkfittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)will also need to be masked off. Use genuinemasking tape, and several thicknesses ofnewspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate theaerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area(an old tin, or similar) until the technique ismastered. Cover the repair area with a thickcoat of primer; the thickness should be builtup using several thin layers of paint, ratherthan one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the primeruntil it is really smooth. While doing this, thework area should be thoroughly doused withwater, and the wet-and-dry paper periodicallyrinsed in water. Allow to dry before sprayingon more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.Start spraying in the centre of the repair area,and then, using a circular motion, workoutwards until the whole repair area andabout 2 inches of the surrounding originalpaintwork is covered. Remove all maskingmaterial 10 to 15 minutes after spraying onthe final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks toharden, then, using a paintwork renovator or avery fine cutting paste, blend the edges of thepaint into the existing paintwork. Finally, applywax polish.

Plastic componentsWith the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (egbumpers. spoilers, and in some cases majorbody panels), rectification of more seriousdamage to such items has become a matterof either entrusting repair work to a specialistin this field, or renewing completecomponents. Repair of such damage by theDIY owner is not really feasible, owing to thecost of the equipment and materials requiredfor effecting such repairs. The basic techniqueinvolves making a groove along the line of thecrack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in apower drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together, using a hot air gun to heat upand fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.Any excess plastic is then removed, and thearea rubbed down to a smooth finish. It isimportant that a filler rod of the correct plasticis used, as body components can be made ofa variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIYowner using a two-part epoxy filler repair.Once mixed in equal parts, this is used insimilar fashion to the bodywork filler used onmetal panels. The filler is usually cured intwenty to thirty minutes, ready for sandingand painting.

If the owner is renewing a completecomponent himself, or if he has repaired itwith epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishingwhich is compatible with the type of plasticused. At one time, the use of a universal paintwas not possible, owing to the complex rangeof plastics encountered in body componentapplications. Standard paints, generally

speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubbersatisfactorily, but suitable paints to match anyplastic or rubber finish, can be obtained fromdealers. However, it is now possible to obtaina plastic body parts finishing kit whichconsists of a pre-primer treatment, a primerand coloured top coat. Full instructions arenormally supplied with a kit, but basically, themethod of use is to first apply the pre-primerto the component concerned, and allow it todry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer isapplied, and left to dry for about an hourbefore finally applying the special-colouredtop coat. The result is a correctly-colouredcomponent, where the paint will flex with theplastic or rubber, a property that standardpaint does not normally posses.

5 Major body damage - repair 5Where serious damage has occurred, or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, itmeans that complete new panels will needwelding-in, and this is best left toprofessionals. If the damage is due to impact,it will also be necessary to check completelythe alignment of the bodyshell, and this canonly be carried out accurately by a Peugeotdealer using special jigs. If the body is leftmisaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as thecar will not handle properly, and secondly,uneven stresses will be imposed on thesteering, suspension and possiblytransmission, causing abnormal wear, orcomplete failure, particularly to such items asthe tyres.

6 Front bumper - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Working at the bottom of the bumper,remove the three lower bumper securingscrews (see illustration).2 Working on one side of the vehicle, removethe three screws securing the outer edge ofthe wheel arch liner, then pull the liner backfrom the bumper.

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

11

6.1 Front bumper lower securing screw

3 Unscrew the two bumper front securingnuts (see illustration).4 Unscrew the bolt securing the side of thebumper to the wing panel (see illustration).5 Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 2 to 4on the remaining side of the vehicle.6 Pull the bumper forwards and, whereapplicable, disconnect the front foglight wiringharness and/or the headlight washer fluidhose. Note the routing of the wiring and/orhose.7 Remove the bumper.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal but, whereapplicable, ensure that the foglight wiringand/or washer fluid hose are correctly routed.

7 Rear bumper - removal and refitting 2

Saloon models

Removal1 To improve access, chock the front wheels,then jack up the rear of the vehicle andsupport securely on axle stands (see “Jackingand Vehicle Support”).2 Remove the fixings, and withdraw the rearwheel arch liners (access to the fixings can beimproved by removing the rear roadwheels)(see illustration).3 Unscrew the bumper side securing bolts(one bolt on each side).

4 Working under the bottom of the bumper,unscrew the two lower securing bolts.5 Working in the luggage compartment,locate the number plate light wiringconnector, next to the left-hand rear lightassembly, and separate the two halves of theconnector.6 Pull the carpet trim panel away from therear edge of the luggage compartment toexpose the two remaining bumper securingbolts.7 Pull the bumper rearwards, and feed thenumber plate light wiring harness through thegrommet in the rear body panel.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Estate models

Removal9 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2.

10 On models with rear underbody shieldsfitted under the sides of the bumper, releasethe exhaust system from its rear mounting(loosen the clamp if necessary), then lower therear of the system for access to the left-handrear underbody shield.11 Where applicable, remove the rearunderbody shield(s) to expose the bumperside fixing bolts (see illustration).12 Unscrew the bumper side securing bolts(one bolt on each side) (see illustration).13 Unscrew the two bolts on each side,securing the bumper to the underbodybrackets, then pull the bumper rearwardsfrom the vehicle (see illustration).


8 Bonnet - removal, refitting andadjustment 2

Removal1 Open the bonnet and have an assistantsupport it, then, using a pencil or felt tip pen,mark the outline position of each bonnet hingerelative to the bonnet, to use as a guide onrefitting.2 Where applicable, unbolt the earth strapfrom the bonnet.3 Unscrew the bonnet bolts and, with thehelp of the assistant, carefully lift the bonnetfrom the vehicle (see illustration). Store thebonnet out of the way in a safe place.


6.3 Front bumper front securing nuts(arrowed)

7.2 Removing a rear wheel arch liner

7.13 Rear bumper side securing bolts(arrowed) - Estate model

7.12 Rear bumper side securing bolt(arrowed) - Estate model

7.11 Rear underbody shield securing clip(arrowed) - Estate model

6.4 Front bumper side securing bolt(arrowed)

8.3 Hinge-to-bonnet bolts (A) and hinge-to-body bolts (B)

4 Inspect the bonnet hinges for signs of wearand free play at the pivots, and if necessaryrenew. Each hinge is secured to the body bytwo bolts. On refitting, apply a smear of multi-purpose grease to the hinges.

Refitting and adjustment5 With the aid of an assistant, offer up thebonnet and loosely fit the retaining bolts. Alignthe hinges with the marks made on removal,then tighten the retaining bolts securely.6 Close the bonnet, and check for alignmentwith the adjacent panels. If necessary,slacken the hinge bolts and re-align thebonnet to suit. Once the bonnet is correctlyaligned, tighten the hinge bolts. Note that thealignment of the bonnet can also be adjustedusing the rubber bump stops fitted to thebody front panel. To adjust a bump stop,loosen the locknut, then turn the buffer asrequired, and tighten the locknut.7 Once the bonnet is correctly aligned, checkthat the bonnet fastens and releases in asatisfactory manner. If adjustment isnecessary, slacken the bonnet striker lock nutand adjust the position of the striker to suit.Once the lock is operating correctly, securelytighten the striker lock nut.

9 Bonnet release cable -removal and refitting 3

General1 The cable consists of two parts, joined at aconnecting plate in the engine compartment.The release lever may be mounted on the left-or right-hand side of the facia, depending onmodel.

Release lever-to-connecting platecable - models with release lever onright-hand side of faciaRemoval2 Working inside the vehicle, release thesecuring clips and drop the fusebox paneldown from the facia.3 Remove the two bolts securing the bonnetrelease lever to the bracket under the facia(see illustration).

4 Working in the engine compartment, locatethe cable connecting plate, positioned behindthe body front panel, above the radiator.5 Where applicable, remove the anti-squealfoam from the cable connector, then disconnectthe cable from the connector (see illustration).6 Work around the engine compartment, andrelease the cable from any clips and brackets.7 Tie a length of string to the end of the cablein the engine compartment, then pull thecable through into the vehicle interior, notingits routing.8 Untie the string from the end of the cable,and leave it in position to aid refitting.Refitting9 Commence refitting by tying the end of thenew cable to the string in the vehicle interior.10 Use the string to pull the cable throughinto the engine compartment, routing it asnoted before removal.11 Make sure that the bulkhead grommet issecurely seated in the bulkhead aperture.12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

Release lever-to-connecting platecable - models with release lever onleft-hand side of faciaRemoval13 Working under the facia, remove therelease lever securing bolt, and withdraw thelever from the side of the footwell.14 Proceed as described previously inparagraphs 4 to 8.Refitting15 Proceed as described previously inparagraphs 9 to 12.

Connecting plate-to-lock cableRemoval16 Working in the engine compartment,locate the cable connecting plate, which ispositioned at the front of the enginecompartment.17 Where applicable, remove the anti-squealfoam from the cable connector, thendisconnect the release lever cable from theconnector.18 Disconnect the end of the cable from thelock, then unclip the cable outer from thebracket on the lock, release the cable fromany clips on the body, and withdraw thecable, noting its routing. If desired, access to

the lock can be improved by removing thefront grille panel (see Section 25).Refitting19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Bonnet lock - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Open the bonnet.2 Unscrew the two securing bolts, thenwithdraw the lock and disconnect the end ofthe release cable from the lock lever (seeillustration).

Refitting3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but oncompletion, the operation of the lock.4 If necessary, adjust the position of the lockstriker on the bonnet (loosen the locknut toenable the striker to be moved), until the lockoperation is satisfactory.

11 Body front panel assembly -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Open the bonnet.2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.3 To improve access, apply the handbrake,then jack up the front of the vehicle ansupport securely on axle stands (see “Jackingand Vehicle Support”).4 Remove the front wheel arch liners, withreference to Section 25.


10.2 Bonnet lock securing bolts (arrowed)

9.5 Disconnecting the bonnet releasecable from the connector behind

the front body panel

9.3 Bonnet release lever securing bolts (arrowed) -

lever mounted on right-hand side

11

Warning: On models equippedwith air conditioning, the boltssecuring the condenser and thereservoir to the front panel must

be removed. Where the front panel isbeing removed to enable engine removal,the compressor must also be unboltedfrom the engine, which will then allow thecomplete assembly to be moved clear forengine removal. Do not disconnect anyrefrigerant pipelines unless the systemhas been recharged - refer to theprecautions given in Chapter 3.

5 Remove the front bumper, as described inSection 6.6 Remove the front direction indicator lights,as described in Chapter 12.7 Disconnect the front light wiringconnectors, located at each front corner ofthe engine compartment on models up to1992, or in the right-hand corner of the enginecompartment on models from 1993 (seeillustrations).8 Unbolt the earth leads from the frontcorners of the engine compartment (seeillustration).9 Where applicable, remove the headlightadjusters from the brackets on the front panel,with reference to Chapter 12.10 Where applicable, disconnect theheadlight washer tubes.11 Locate the bonnet release cableconnecting plate, which is positioned at thetop of the body front panel. Where applicable,

remove the anti-squeal foam from the cableconnector, then disconnect the release levercable from the connector. Unclip the cablefrom the front panel assembly.12 Unscrew the bolts securing the bottom ofthe front panel to the lower crossmember -there may be two or three bolts, depending onmodel (see illustration).13 Remove the radiator as described inChapter 3, but note that provided the radiatoris adequately supported in the enginecompartment, there is no need to disconnectthe coolant hoses (this will avoid the need todrain the cooling system).14 Remove the two upper securing boltsfrom each end of the front panel (seeillustration).15 Carefully release the clips securing thelower headlight trim strips to the front wings.16 Make a final check to ensure that allrelevant wiring has been disconnected toenable removal of the front panel assembly,then withdraw the assembly forwards fromthe front of the vehicle (see illustration).


12 Door - removal, refitting andadjustment 3

Removal1 The door hinges are welded to the bodypillar, and bolted to the door.

2 Where applicable, prise the plastic capsfrom the hinge pins.3 Using a pin-punch, drive the roll-pin fromthe door check strap (see illustration).4 On models with electrical componentsinside the door, remove the door trim panelwith reference to Section 13. Working insidethe door, disconnect all the wiring harnessplugs, then feed the wiring through the hole in the front edge of the door. Note the routingof the wiring harness to ensure correctrefitting.5 The door must now be supported in thefully open position.

12.3 Drive the roll-pin (arrowed) from thedoor check strap

11.16 Withdrawing the body front panelassembly


11.7a Disconnecting the front light wiringconnectors - models up to 1992

11.7c . . . and disconnect the plug from theterminal block - models from 1993

11.14 Unscrew the body front panel upper securing bolts

11.12 Removing a body front panel lower securing bolt

11.8 Unbolt the earth leads from thecorners of the engine compartment

11.7b Disconnect the front light wiringconnectors (arrowed) . . .

Support the door by placingblocks of wood, or a jackand block of wood, under itslower edge.

6 Ensure that the door is adequatelysupported, then unscrew the pivot pins fromthe hinges (see illustration).7 Lift the door from the vehicle.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting thatthe hinge pins fit with their heads towardseach other, ie, the upper pin fits from belowthe hinge, and the lower pin fits from abovethe hinge.9 On completion, check the fit of the doorwith the surrounding body panels. On earlymodels, the fit of the doors can be adjusted asdescribed in paragraph 11.10 If adjustment of the door lock is required,this can be achieved by altering the positionof the lock striker within the elongated boltholes in the body pillar.

Adjustment - early models only11 The fit of the door can be adjusted using

shims fitted between the hinge and the door.To add or remove shims, loosen the boltssecuring the hinge to the door (the door innertrim panel must be removed for access to thebolts - see Section 13), then fit or removeshims as necessary.

13 Door inner trim panel -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 If the trim is being in removed in order toremove the window glass, lower the windowto approximately the two-thirds open position.2 Carefully prise the surround from the doorinterior handle (see illustration).3 Remove the loudspeaker cover panel,either by depressing the securing clip at thelower edge of the panel, or by removing thethree securing screws from the edge of thepanel, as applicable (see illustration).4 Unscrew the securing screws, withdraw theloudspeaker, and disconnect the wiring.5 Lift up the inner door lock operating buttonthen, using a small screwdriver, depress theretaining tab, and slide off the button (seeillustration).6 On models with manually-operatedwindows, carefully pull the window regulatorhandle from the door.7 On models with electric windows,disconnect the battery negative lead, thenprise the switches from the door, anddisconnect the wiring plugs (see illustration).

8 Prise the mirror trim plate from the frontcorner of the door (see illustration). Whereapplicable, loosen the clamp screw, andrelease the mirror adjuster knob from the trimplate.9 Remove the securing screws and withdrawthe armrest (where applicable, prise the trimplate from the armrest to expose the screws)(see illustration).10 On later models, prise the trim plate fromthe rear of the door pocket, and unscrew therear trim panel securing screw (see illustration).11 Where applicable, using a screwdriver,release the trim panel securing clip located inthe loudspeaker aperture.12 Working around the edge of the door,release the remaining securing clips aroundthe edge of the trim panel, ideally using aforked tool to avoid breaking the clips.13 Lift the panel to release it from the top ofthe door, then withdraw the panel. Whereapplicable, disconnect the wiring plug from


13.3 Removing a loudspeaker cover panelsecuring screw

13.8 Prise off the mirror trim plate

13.7 Removing an electric window switchfrom the door

13.5 Depress the retaining tab and slideoff the lock operating button

13.2 Removing the door interior handlesurround

12.6 Door pivot pin (arrowed)

11

13.9 Remove the securing screws andwithdraw the armrest

13.10 Removing the rear door trim panelsecuring screw - later model

the electric windows control unit, which islocated on a bracket attached to the rear ofthe door trim panel.

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.

a) Before refitting, check whether any of thetrim panel retaining clips were broken onremoval, and renew as necessary.

b) Ensure that the weatherstrip (with themetal reinforcing strip) is in place on thetop of the trim panel before refitting, andcheck that the weatherstrip engagescorrectly with the weatherstrip on thedoor as the trim panel is refitted.

c) To refit the inner door lock operatingbutton, first lock the door to ensure thatthe link rod is in its lowest position.Position the button locating tab in thelower of its two holes, then firmly push

the button onto the rod until it clips intoposition and the retaining tab appears inthe upper hole (see illustrations).

14 Door handle and lockcomponents - removal andrefitting

3Interior door handle

Removal1 Remove the door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 13.2 If necessary, peel the plastic sealing sheetfrom around the handle assembly.3 Slide the handle assembly towards the frontof the door, then pull the assembly from thetrim panel and disconnect the link rod (seeillustration). If necessary, release the link rodfrom the clips on the door.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuringthe link rod is correctly reconnected. Whereapplicable, fit a new sealing sheet if the sheetwas damaged during removal, and refit thedoor trim panel with reference to Section 13.

Exterior door handle

Removal5 Remove the door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 13.6 Peel back the plastic sealing sheet foraccess to the handle securing nut.7 Unscrew the handle securing nut then,where applicable, manipulate the plastic shieldfrom the rear of the lock (see illustrations).8 Withdraw the handle from outside the door,and disconnect the lock operating rod fromthe handle as it is removed (see illustration).

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuringthat the link rod is correctly reconnected. Fit anew sealing sheet if the sheet was damagedduring removal, and refit the door trim panelwith reference to Section 13.

Front door lock cylinder10 The lock cylinder can be removed asfollows, without the need to remove the doorinner trim panel. If no facilities are available tomake up the tools, proceed to paragraph 11.a) Make up two suitable tools, using a

medium-size self-tapping screw brazed toa length of rod for each tool (seeillustration).

14.10a Tool for removing door lock cylinder

All dimensions in mm14.8 Withdrawing the exterior door handle


13.14a Position the lock button locatingtab in the lower position

14.3 Unhooking the link rod from theinterior door handle

14.7c . . . and withdraw the plastic shield -later model

14.7b Unscrew the securing nut . . .14.7a Exterior door handle securing nut(arrowed) - early model

13.14b Push the button onto the rod untilretaining tab appears in upper hole (arrowed)

b) Open the door, and prise the cover platesfrom the rear edge of the door.

c) Insert the tools through the aperture in theedge of the door, and screw the tools intothe lock securing clip as far as the ends ofthe threads on the self-tapping screws.

d) Push the tools to release the securingclip, and withdraw the lock cylinder fromoutside the door (see illustration). Leavethe tools engaged with the clip.

e) Refit the lock, and use the tools to pull thesecuring clip into position.

f) Ensure the clip is securely engaged withthe lock cylinder, then unscrew the toolsfrom the clip, and refit the cover plates.

Removal11 Remove the door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 13.12 Peel back the plastic sealing sheet foraccess to the lock cylinder securing clip.13 Working inside the door, pull the clip fromthe rear of the lock cylinder, then remove thelock cylinder from outside the door (seeillustrations).

Refitting14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that the lock cylinder clip is securelyrefitted. Fit a new sealing sheet if the sheetwas damaged during removal, and refit thedoor trim panel with reference to Section 13.

Door lockRemoval15 Remove the door interior handle and theexterior handle, as described previously in thisSection.

16 Working at the rear edge of the door,unscrew the three lock securing screws (seeillustration).17 Where applicable, disconnect the wiringplug from the central locking motor on thelock assembly.18 Lower the lock assembly into the door,and manipulate the lock operating rods untilthe assembly can be withdrawn through thedoor aperture. If it proves necessary todisconnect any of the rods, carefully note therouting and location to ensure correctrefitting.

Refitting19 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure that the lock operating rods arecorrectly located and routed, and refit thedoor exterior and interior handles asdescribed previously in this Section.

15 Door window glass andregulator - removal andrefitting

3Front door window glass

Removal1 Remove the door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 13.2 Lower the window glass two-thirds of theway.3 Carefully peel the plastic sealing sheet fromthe door.4 Pull the weatherstrip from the lower edge ofthe window aperture.

5 Partially pull the weatherstrip from the rearand upper edge of the window aperture.6 Where applicable, disconnect the electricwindow motor wiring connector, and movethe wiring harness to one side.7 It is now necessary to release the clipsecuring the window glass to the regulatormechanism.8 On models up to 1992, this is a difficultoperation, as the lugs on the clip must bereleased from behind the glass. Peugeot tool(-)7.1309 is available for this purpose, but thetool can be improvised by drilling a hole ofsuitable diameter in a small block of wood orplastic. Push the tool onto the rear of the clipto compress the lugs, whilst at the same timepushing the window glass to release it fromthe clip (see illustration).9 On models from 1993, the clip is fittedbehind the glass, and can be released byreaching in through the door aperture andturning the clip through a quarter-turn.10 Lift the glass out through the outside ofthe window aperture.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.a) On models up to 1992, ensure that the

clip securing the glass to the regulator issecurely engaged.

b) To ease refitting of the weatherstrips, coatthem with soapy water (washing-up liquidis ideal).

c) If the plastic sealing sheet was damagedduring removal, fit a new sheet.

d) Refit the door inner trim panel withreference to Section 13.

Front door regulatorRemoval12 Remove the window glass as describedpreviously in this Section. Alternatively,release the clip securing the window glass tothe regulator mechanism, then lift the glass upand secure it to the top of the door usingstring adhesive tape - ensure that the glass issecure, and that there is no danger of itdropping back into the door.13 Where applicable, disconnect the wiringplug(s) from the electric window motor.


14.13b . . . then withdraw the lock cylinder

1 Plastic clip lugs2 Plastic clip

3 Window glass4 Tool

15.8 Using a tool to release the windowglass securing clip - models up to 1992

14.16 Remove the door lock securing screws

14.13a Remove the securing clip . . .14.10b Using the improvised tools torelease the lock cylinder securing clip

11

14 Unscrew the three nuts securing theregulator mechanism to the door (seeillustration).15 Unscrew the two nuts securing thewindow lift rail to the door.16 Carefully tilt the assembly and lift it outthrough the lower aperture in the door (seeillustration).

Refitting17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refitthe window glass as described previously inthis Section.

Rear door sliding window glass18 Proceed as described for the front doorwindow glass, noting the following points.a) Fully lower the window glass.b) The rear glass guide rail must be removed

before removing the glass. The guide railis secured by two bolts (see illustration).

Rear door fixed window glass

Removal19 Remove the door inner trim panel asdescribed in Section 13.20 Carefully peel the plastic sealing sheetfrom the door.21 Unscrew the two bolts securing the rearwindow guide rail.22 Where applicable, prise the trim strip fromthe fixed window seal.23 Pull the weatherstrip from the lower edgeof the window aperture.24 Partially pull the weatherstrip from the rearand upper edge of the window aperture.25 Slide the rear window guide raildownwards into the door.26 Remove the fixed glass, complete withthe seal, by tilting and pulling forwards (seeillustration). Note that the rear window guiderail remains attached to the sliding glass.

Refitting27 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.a) To ease refitting of the weatherstrips, coat

them with soapy water (washing-up liquidis ideal).

b) If the plastic sealing sheet was damagedduring removal, fit a new sheet.

c) Refit the door inner trim panel withreference to Section 13.

Rear door regulator28 The procedure is as described previouslyin this Section for the front door regulator.Note that there is no need to remove the fixedwindow glass.

16 Boot lid (Saloon models) -removal, refitting andadjustment

2Removal1 Open the boot lid, and using a pencil or felttip pen, mark the outline position of each bootlid hinge relative to the boot lid, to use as aguide on refitting.

2 Have an assistant hold the boot lid openthen, using a pair of pliers, disconnect thespring assisters from the brackets on thebody - take care, as the springs are undertension. Note which bracket slots the ends ofthe springs are positioned in, to ensurecorrect refitting (see illustration).3 Unscrew the bolts securing the hinges tothe boot lid, and lift off the boot lid.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting thefollowing points.a) Align the hinges with the marks made on

the boot lid before removal.b) Make sure that the spring assisters are

refitted to their original slots in the bodybrackets.

c) On completion, check the alignment ofthe boot lid with the surrounding panels,and check the operation of the lock, and ifnecessary adjust as follows.

Adjustment5 The alignment of the boot lid can beadjusted by slackening the hinge bolts, andmoving the boot lid on the hinges (the holes inthe hinges are elongated).6 There are adjustable rubber stops at eachside of the lid to prevent damage to thesurrounding panels when closing the lid. Thereare also rubber stops under each hinge arm,which should be adjusted to prevent the lidfrom opening too far and causing damage tothe front corners of the lid (see illustration).

1 Guide rail upper bolt2 Guide rail lower bolt

3 Guide rail4 Weatherstrip


15.14 Unscrew the front door windowregulator securing nuts (arrowed)

15.18 The rear glass guide rail must beremoved before removing the rear door

sliding window glass

16.6 Rubber stop (arrowed) under boot lid hinge arm

16.2 Note which slots (arrowed) the endsof the boot lid assister springs are

positioned in before disconnecting them

15.26 Removing the rear door fixedwindow glass

15.16 Removing the front door windowregulator assembly

A Guide rail lowered into door B Weatherstrip

7 Check that the boot lid lock operation issatisfactory, and if necessary adjust bymoving the lock striker (bolted to the boot lid)within its elongated holes.

17 Boot lid lock components(Saloon models) - removaland refitting

3Boot lid lock cylinderNote: New pop-rivets will be required to refitthe body rear trim panel, and on some modelsthe lock cylinder.

Removal1 Open the boot lid.2 Pull the weatherseals from the edge of therear luggage compartment trim panel, thencarefully pull the trim panel from the upperedge of the luggage compartment.3 Drill out the securing rivets from the top ofthe body rear trim panel, then unclip the trimpanel and withdraw it from the rear of thevehicle (see illustration).4 Working in the luggage compartment, whereapplicable unscrew the pinch-bolt, anddisconnect the operating rod from the lockcylinder (see illustration). Similarly, disconnectthe central locking motor rod, where applicable.5 Drill out the rivets, or unscrew the securingbolts, as applicable, and withdraw the lockcylinder from the body panel.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing inmind the following points.a) Refit the body rear trim panel (and the

lock cylinder, where applicable) using newpop-rivets.

b) Check the operation of the lockmechanism before refitting the trim panels.

c) If necessary, on models where theoperating rod is secured to the lockcylinder with a pinch-bolt, adjust the rodas necessary (by slackening the pinch-bolt) until the lock operation issatisfactory.

Boot lid lock

Removal7 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2.

8 Unscrew the two securing bolts, thenwithdraw the lock and disconnect theoperating rod.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but checkthe operation of the lock before refitting thetrim panel.

Boot lid lock striker10 The striker is secured to the boot lid bytwo bolts, and can be adjusted by moving itwithin the elongated bolt holes.

18 Tailgate and support struts(Estate models) - removal,refitting and adjustment

3Tailgate

Removal1 Open the tailgate.2 Remove the securing screws, and withdrawthe plastic trim panel from the inside of thetailgate.3 Working around the edge of the carpetedtrim panel, release the securing clips, ideallyusing a forked tool to avoid breaking the clips.Withdraw the carpeted panel.4 Disconnect the heated rear window wiringconnectors from the contacts on the tailgate.5 Disconnect the wiring plug from theluggage compartment light switch, and fromthe alarm sensor switch, where applicable.6 Where applicable, working through theaperture in the tailgate, disconnect the

tailgate wiper motor and the central lockingmotor wiring plugs.7 Disconnect the washer fluid hose from thewasher nozzle.8 Release the wiring harnesses and thewasher fluid hose from any clips inside thetailgate.9 Pull the wiring grommets from the topcorners of the tailgate.10 If the original tailgate is to be refitted, tiestring to the ends of all the relevant wiring,then feed the wiring through the top of thetailgate. Untie the string, leaving it in positionin the tailgate to assist refitting.11 Support the tailgate, then prise out thesupport strut spring clips, and pull the strutsfrom the balljoints on the tailgate.12 Unscrew the nuts securing the hinges tothe top of the tailgate, and carefully lift thetailgate from the vehicle (see illustration).

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.a) If the original tailgate is being refitted,

draw the wiring and washer fluid hose(where applicable) through the tailgate, orthrough the body panel (as applicable)using the string.

b) If necessary, adjust the rubber buffers toobtain a good fit when the tailgate is shut.

c) Before refitting the tailgate trim panels,check and if necessary adjust the positionof the tailgate lock within its elongatedholes to achieve satisfactory lock operation.

Adjustment14 If necessary, the rubber buffers at thesides of the tailgate can be adjusted toachieve firm closure of the tailgate withoutslamming. The tailgate lock operation can beadjusted by altering the position of the lockwithin its elongated holes.

Support struts

Removal15 Support the tailgate in the open position,with the help of an assistant, or using a stoutpiece of wood.16 Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver,release the spring clip, and pull the supportstrut from its balljoint on the tailgate (seeillustration).


18.12 Hinge-to-tailgate nuts (arrowed)

18.16 Prising the spring clip from atailgate strut balljoint

17.4 Unscrew the lock operating rodpinch-bolt (arrowed)

17.3 Drill out the rivets (arrowed) from thebody rear trim panel

11

17 Similarly, release the strut from theballjoint on the body, and withdraw the strutfrom the vehicle.

Refitting18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butensure the spring clips are correctly engaged.

19 Tailgate lock components(Estate models) - removaland refitting

3Tailgate lock cylinderNote: New pop-rivets will be required to refitthe lock cylinder.

Removal1 Open the tailgate.2 Remove the securing screws, and withdrawthe plastic trim panel from the inside of thetailgate (see illustration).3 Working around the edge of the carpetedtrim panel, release the securing clips, ideallyusing a forked tool to avoid breaking the clips.Withdraw the carpeted panel (seeillustration).4 Drill out the rivets securing the lock cylinderassembly to the tailgate (see illustration).5 Unhook the operating rod(s), and withdrawthe assembly from the tailgate.6 Remove any rivet swarf from the inside ofthe tailgate.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but usenew rivets to secure the assembly to thetailgate.

Tailgate lock

Removal8 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 3.9 Unscrew the two bolts securing the lock tothe mounting bracket (see illustration).10 Unhook the lock operating rod, andwithdraw the lock.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butbefore refitting the tailgate trim panels, checkthe operation of the lock, and if necessaryadjust by moving the lock within its elongatedbolt holes.

Tailgate lid lock striker12 The striker is secured to the body by twobolts.

20 Central locking components - removal and refitting

3Note: Before attempting work on any of thecentral locking system components,disconnect the battery negative lead.Reconnect the lead on completion of work.

Electronic control unit

Removal1 Remove the glovebox as described inSection 28 to reveal the control unit (seeillustration).2 Where applicable, remove the two securingscrews, then unclip the control unit from itslocation, and disconnect the wiring plug (seeillustration).


Door lock motor4 The motors are fitted to the door lockassemblies. To remove a motor, remove thelock assembly as described in Section 14,then remove the screws securing the motor tothe lock assembly.

Tailgate lock motor

Removal5 Open the tailgate.6 Remove the securing screws, and withdrawthe plastic trim panel from the inside of thetailgate.7 Working around the edge of the carpetedtrim panel, release the securing clips, ideallyusing a forked tool to avoid breaking the clips.Withdraw the carpeted panel.8 Unscrew the bolt securing the lock motor tothe tailgate (see illustration).9 Manipulate the motor out from the aperturein the tailgate, then disconnect the lockoperating rod and disconnect the wiring plug(see illustration).



19.2 Withdraw the plastic trim panel from the tailgate . . .

19.4 Tailgate lock cylinder securing rivets(arrowed)

20.2 Removing the central lockingelectronic control unit -

models from 1993

20.1 Central locking electronic control unit(arrowed) viewed with glovebox removed -

models up to 1992

19.9 Tailgate lock securing bolts (arrowed)

19.3 . . . then withdraw the carpeted panel

Boot lid lock motor

Removal11 Open the boot lid.12 Pull the weatherseals from the edge of therear luggage compartment trim panel, thencarefully pull the trim panel from the upperedge of the luggage compartment.13 Remove the securing screws, thenwithdraw the lock motor and disconnect thecontrol rod.14 Disconnect the wiring plug, and withdrawthe motor.


Fuel filler flap lock motor -Saloon models

Removal16 On Saloon models, the motor is located in

the luggage compartment, behind the right-hand side trim panels.17 Carefully prise the carpeted trim from theside of the luggage compartment, to exposethe lock motor.18 Open the fuel filler flap, and unscrew thebolt securing the motor to the body.19 Working inside the luggage compartment,unscrew the securing bolt, then withdraw themotor and disconnect the wiring plug.

Refitting20 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ifnecessary, glue the trim back into position.

Fuel filler flap lock motor -Estate models

Removal21 On Estate models, the motor is located inthe luggage compartment, behind the rearwindow washer reservoir.

22 Working inside the luggage compartment,open the cover flap to expose the rear washerfluid reservoir.23 Remove the two securing screws, then liftout the reservoir to expose the lock motor.Note that there is no need to disconnect thewasher fluid tubing.24 Proceed as described in paragraphs 18and 19 (see illustrations).


Remote control receiver unit

Removal26 The unit is located in the roof console.27 Unclip the sunvisors from the roof console.28 Carefully prise the courtesy light assemblyfrom the console to expose the two roofconsole front securing screws. Disconnect thewiring plug and remove the light.29 Similarly, prise the map reading light andthe light surround from the console to exposeone of the front securing screws. Disconnectthe wiring plug and remove the light.30 Prise the blanking plate from the consolethen, where applicable, push the sunroofswitch from the console.31 Remove the two console securing screwsexposed by removal of the map reading lightand sunroof switch, then lower the consolefrom the roof (see illustration).32 Disconnect the wiring plug from thereceiver unit.33 Release the clips, and withdraw thereceiver unit from the console (see illustration).


Remote control transmitterbatteries - renewal

Early models35 Using a small screwdriver, carefully prisethe rear cover from the transmitter unit, andremove the three batteries, noting which wayround they are fitted (see illustration).36 Fit the new batteries, ensuring that theyare fitted the correct way round; the batteryand transmitter terminals are marked “+” and“-” to avoid confusion. Clip the transmitterback together.


20.24a Remove the bolt securing the fuelfiller flap lock motor to the body

20.33 Central locking remote controlreceiver securing clips (arrowed)

20.31 Removing a roof console securing screw

20.24b Removing the fuel filler flap lockmotor - Estate model

20.9 Disconnecting the wiring plug fromthe tailgate lock motor

20.8 Unscrewing the tailgate lock motorsecuring bolt

11

20.35 Rear cover removed from remotetransmitter to expose batteries (arrowed)

Later models36 Remove the small screws securing thetwo halves of the key/transmitter casingtogether. Remove the two batteries, notingwhich way round they are fitted.37 Fit the new batteries, ensuring that theyare fitted the correct way round. Clip the twohalves of the casing back together and refitthe securing screw.

21 Electric window components - removal and refitting

3Electronic control unit

Removal1 Remove the driver’s door inner trim panelas described in Section 13.

2 The control unit is clipped to a bracket on therear of the door trim panel (see illustration).3 Unclip the control unit and withdraw it fromthe panel.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit thedoor trim panel as described in Section 13.

Window switches5 Refer to Chapter 12.

Window regulator motors6 The regulator motors are integral with theregulator assemblies, and cannot be obtainedseparately.7 Removal and refitting details for theregulator assemblies are given in Section 15.

22 Exterior mirrors andassociated components -removal and refitting

3General1 A number of different types of rear viewmirror may be encountered, according tomodel, and date of manufacture.2 The following paragraphs provide a guideto all types.

Mirror

Removal3 On models with electric mirrors, remove thedoor inner trim panel (Section 13), then peel backthe plastic sealing sheet from the door for access

to the mirror wiring connector(s). Disconnect thewiring connectors (see illustration).4 If not already done, prise the mirror trimplate from the inside front corner of the door.Where applicable, loosen the clamp screw,and release the adjuster knob from the trimplate (see illustration).5 Where applicable, prise the sealing stripand the grommet from the adjuster linkageaperture in the door for access to the lowermirror securing screws (see illustrations).6 Remove the four securing screws, andwithdraw the mirror from the door (seeillustrations). Where applicable, feed thewiring up through the door, noting its routing.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but whereapplicable refit the door inner trim panel withreference to Section 13.

Mirror glass

Removal8 Various methods have been used to retainthe glass. On some mirrors, the glass cannotbe removed from the housing, and thecomplete mirror unit must be renewed. Themirror glass may be stuck using adhesivepads; on later types of mirror, the glass maybe held by a wire clip, or by a locking ring.9 To remove a mirror glass secured by alocking ring, tilt the glass fully upwards, theninsert a screwdriver at the lower edge of theglass and locate the locking ring. Lever thelocking ring towards the door of the vehicle torelease the glass (see illustration).

22.6b . . . and withdraw the mirror


21.2 Disconnecting wiring plug from theelectric windows electronic control unit

22.4 Loosen the clamp screw and releasemirror adjuster knob from the trim plate

22.6a Remove the four securing screws . . .

22.5b . . . and the grommet

22.5a Prise off the sealing strip . . .22.3 Disconnecting the door mirror wiring connectors

10 To remove a mirror glass secured by awire clip, working at the bottom edge of themirror glass, locate the ends of the spring clipwhich secures the glass. Using a screwdriver,push the ends of the clip together to releasethe glass. Withdraw the glass, and disconnectthe wiring, where applicable. Recover thespring clip if it is loose (see illustrations).

Refitting11 On models where the glass is secured bya locking ring, where applicable reconnect thewiring to the glass, then locate the glass in thehousing, and lever the locking ring away fromthe door to lock the glass in position.12 On models where the glass is retained bya wire clip, fit the spring clip to the rear of themirror glass, ensuring that the clip is correctlylocated in the slots in the rear of the mirrorglass. Push the mirror glass into the mirroruntil the spring clip locks into position in themirror adjuster groove. On models where themirror glass is secured by a wire clip, lightlygrease the plastic ring on the adjuster to aidrefitting of the spring clip.

Mirror adjustment mechanism13 The adjustment mechanism is integralwith the mirror assembly, and if faulty, thecomplete mirror must be renewed.

23 Windscreen, tailgate andfixed window glass - general information

These areas of glass are secured by thetight fit of the weatherstrip in the body

aperture, and are bonded in position with aspecial adhesive. Renewal of such fixed glassis a difficult, messy and time-consuming task,which is considered beyond the scope of thehome mechanic. It is difficult, unless one hasplenty of practice, to obtain a secure,waterproof fit. Furthermore, the task carries ahigh risk of breakage; this applies especiallyto the laminated glass windscreen. In view ofthis, owners are strongly advised to have thissort of work carried out by one of the manyspecialist windscreen fitters.

24 Sunroof - general information

General1 The factory-fitted sunroof is of the electrictilt/slide type.

2 Due to the complexity of the sunroofmechanism, considerable skill is required torepair, replace or adjust the sunroof componentssuccessfully. Removal of the roof first requiresthe headlining to be removed, which is a tediousoperation, and not a task to be undertakenlightly. Therefore, any problems with this type ofsunroof should be referred to a Peugeot dealer.3 Removal and refitting of the sunroof motoris described in the following paragraphs.4 Refer to Chapter 12 for details of sunroofswitch removal.

Sunroof motor

Removal5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.6 Prise out the switch(es) and the light(s) fromthe roof console to expose the consolesecuring screws. Disconnect the wiring plugsand withdraw the switch(es) and light(s), ormove them to one side, as applicable. Whereapplicable, also prise out the map readinglight surround.7 Unclip the sun visors from the roof console.8 Remove the screws, and withdraw the roofconsole. Where applicable, release the wiringconnector(s) from the rear of the console.9 Unscrew the earth lead securing bolt.10 Unclip the relay bracket from the roof.11 Unscrew the three screws, and withdrawthe motor assembly from the roof (seeillustration). Where applicable, disconnectthe switch wiring connector.


25 Body exterior fittings -removal and refitting 2

Front grille panel

Removal1 Open the bonnet.2 Working through the front of the grille,remove the grille front securing screws (seeillustration).3 Working at the top inner corners of theheadlights, remove the bolts securing theupper corners of the grille (see illustration).


22.10b . . . then withdraw the glass anddisconnect the wiring

25.2 Remove the grille front securingscrews . . .

24.11 Sunroof motor securing screws(arrowed)

22.10c Recover the spring clip if it is loose

22.10a Prise ends of the clip apart (seenwith mirror removed and inverted) . . .

22.9 Releasing a mirror glass locking ring

11

4 Where applicable, release the retaining clip,then push out the pin securing the bonnetrelease lever to the catch (see illustration).5 Lift the grille panel upwards to disengagethe lower locating lugs, and withdraw thepanel.


Scuttle grille panel

Removal7 Remove the wiper arms as described inChapter 12.8 Disconnect the washer fluid hose from theT-piece at the right-hand side of the scuttle(see illustration).9 Unscrew the four scuttle grille panelsecuring screws (see illustration).10 Prise off the clip securing the left-handside of the grille panel to the scuttle (seeillustration).11 Carefully release the weatherstrip fromthe rear edge of the grille panel, then withdrawthe panel from the vehicle (see illustration).

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit thewiper arms with reference to Chapter 12.

Wheel arch liners and mud shields13 The wheel arch liners are secured by acombination of self-tapping screws, andpush-fit clips. Removal is self-evident, andnormally the clips can be released by pullingthe liner away from the wheel arch.

14 The mud shields are secured in a similarmanner, although certain panels may besecured using pop-rivets. Where applicable,drill out the pop-rivets, and use new rivets onrefitting.

Body trim strips and badges15 The various body trim strips and badgesare held in position with a special adhesivetape. Removal requires the trim/badge to beheated, to soften the adhesive, and then cutaway from the surface. Due to the high risk ofdamage to the vehicle paintwork during thisoperation, it is recommended that this taskshould be entrusted to a Peugeot dealer.

26 Seats - removal and refitting 2Front seat

a) Remove the ignition key.b) Disconnect the battery negative lead, and

wait for two minutes before carrying outany further work.

c) Disconnect the pre-tensioner wiring plugfrom the tensioner unit.

Note: Do not tamper with the pre-tensionerunit in any way, and do not attempt to test theunit. Note that the unit is triggered if the

mechanism is supplied with an electricalcurrent (including via an ohmmeter), or if theassembly is subjected to a temperature ofgreater than 100ºC.

Removal1 Move the seat fully forwards.2 Tilt the seat backrest forwards.3 Remove the bolts (one bolt on each side)securing the rear of the seat rails to the floor(see illustration).4 Move the seat fully rearwards.5 Remove the bolts (one bolt on each side)securing the front of the seat rails to the floor.6 Recover the washers, where applicable,then lift the seat from the vehicle.7 Where applicable, recover the plastic platesfrom the floor.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal but, whereapplicable, ensure that the plastic plates are

26.3 Front seat rear securing bolt partiallyremoved


25.3 . . . and the upper securing bolts(arrowed)

25.8 Disconnect the washer fluid hose

25.11 Removing the scuttle grille panel25.10 Prise the clip from the end of the panel

25.9 Unscrew the grille panel securing screws

25.4 Push out the bonnet release leversecuring pin

Warning: On models with seatbelt pre-tensioners, observe thefollowing precautions beforeattempting to remove the seat.

in position on the floor, and securely tightenthe mounting bolts.

Rear seat cushion - Saloon models

Removal9 Grasp each lower corner of the seat cushionin turn, and push towards the centre of the car,then pull up to release the securing lug.10 Once both corners have been released,the cushion can be lifted from the vehicle.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but takecare not to trap the seat belts.

Rear seat back - Saloon models

Removal12 Where applicable, fold down the reararmrest, and remove the screw securing thearmrest trim panel to the body. Withdraw thetrim panel (see illustrations).

13 Pull each side of the seat back upwards todisengage it from the securing lugs, thenwithdraw the assembly from the vehicle.


Rear seat cushion - Estate models

Removal15 Pull the rear of the seat cushion upwards,using the strap provided, then unscrew thenuts securing the hinges to the floor (seeillustration).


Rear seat back - Estate modelsRemoval17 Release the seat back retaining catches,and tilt the seat back forwards.18 Unscrew the nuts securing the seat backhinges to the floor, then lift the seat back fromthe vehicle. On models with split rear seatbacks, disengage the inner seat back pivotfrom the central bracket, and remove eachsection individually (see illustrations).

Refitting19 Refitting is a reversal of removal but,where applicable, ensure that the seat beltsare not trapped.

27 Seat belt components -removal and refitting 3

Note: Note the locations of any spacersand/or washers on the seat belt anchor bolts,to ensure correct refitting.

Front seat beltRemoval1 Where applicable, remove the cover, thenunscrew the lower seat belt anchor bolt fromthe edge of the seat.2 Unclip the roof side trim panels to exposethe upper B-pillar trim panel top securingscrews. Remove the screws (see illustration).

3 Prise off the trim plate, and unscrew theseat belt upper anchor bolt (see illustration).Recover the spacer.4 Working at the bottom of the upper B-pillartrim panel, remove the remaining securingscrew, then manipulate the panel from the B-pillar (see illustration).


26.15 Rear seat cushion hinge securingnut (arrowed) - Estate model

27.2 Removing an upper B-pillar trimpanel top securing screw

26.18b Split rear seat back inner pivot(arrowed) - Estate model

26.18a Rear seat back hinge securing nuts(arrowed) - Estate model

26.12b . . . and withdraw the armrest trimpanel - Saloon model

26.12a Remove the securing screw . . .

11

27.3 Removing the trim plate from thefront seat belt upper anchor bolt

27.4 Removing the upper B-pillar trimpanel lower securing screw

5 Unscrew the two now-exposed topsecuring screws from the lower B-pillar trimpanel.6 Unclip the sill trim panels to expose thelower B-pillar trim panel bottom securingscrews. Remove the screws, and withdrawthe panel from the B-pillar (see illustration).7 Unscrew the inertia reel bolt, and withdrawthe seat belt assembly (see illustration).

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butsecurely tighten the seat belt securing bolts.

Front seat belt stalk

Removal9 Each stalk is secured to the front seat frameby a bolt and washer. Where applicable,remove the trim from the side of the seat foraccess to the securing bolt.

Refitting10 Tighten the securing bolt securely.

Rear side seat belts - Saloon modelsRemoval11 Remove the seat cushion and back, asdescribed in Section 26.

12 Unbolt the lower seat belt anchor.13 Pull the rear quarter trim panel from theside of the body (see illustration). Take carenot to break the clips.14 Lift up the rear parcel shelf trim panel toexpose the inertia reel.15 Unscrew the securing bolt, and lift out theinertia reel assembly (see illustration).16 Slide the seat belt webbing through theslot in the parcel shelf trim panel, thenwithdraw the seat belt assembly.

Refitting17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butsecurely tighten the seat belt anchor bolts.

Rear side seat belts - Estate models

Removal18 Unbolt the lower seat belt anchor from thebody.19 Fold the rear seat back forwards.20 Working in the luggage compartment,remove the two parcel shelf support panelfront securing screws, and unscrew the seatback catch striker (see illustration).21 Pull the front end of the parcel shelfsupport panel away from the body to exposethe seat belt inertia reel and the securing bolt(see illustration).22 Unscrew the inertia reel securing bolt andwithdraw the assembly.23 Feed the seat belt webbing through theslot in the trim panel, then withdraw theassembly from the vehicle.

Refitting24 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butsecurely tighten the seat belt anchor bolts.

Rear centre belt and buckles

Removal25 The assemblies can simply be unboltedfrom the floor panel, after removing the rearseat cushion (Saloon models) or folding therear seat cushion forwards (Estate models).

Refitting26 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tightenall mounting bolts securely.

28 Interior trim - removal and refitting 3

Door trim panels1 Refer to Section 13.

Steering column shrouds

Removal2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.3 On models with an adjustable steeringcolumn, move the column adjuster lever to thereleased position.4 Working under the steering column,unscrew the five securing screws, thenwithdraw the lower column shroud (seeillustrations).5 Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the


27.6 Removing a lower B-pillar trim panelbottom securing screw

27.13 Pull off the rear quarter trim panel

27.21 Rear seat belt inertia reel (A) andsecuring bolt (B) - Estate model (viewedwith parcel shelf support panel removed)

27.20 Remove two front screws (A) andseat back catch striker (B) from the parcel

shelf support panel - Estate model

27.15 Unscrewing the rear side seat belt inertia reel securing bolt -

Saloon model

27.7 Front inertia reel securing bolt(arrowed)

Warning: On models with seatbelt pre-tensioners, do notattempt to remove the seat beltstalk assembly, which

incorporates the pre-tensioner assembly.Refer the operation to a Peugeot dealer.

instrument panel illumination control,radio/cassette player remote control switch,cruise control switch, and the alarm electroniccontrol unit, as applicable.6 Unclip the upper shroud from the steeringcolumn.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but oncompletion, if it proves necessary to adjustthe alignment between the shrouds and thefacia, loosen the steering column securingnuts and bolts. The fixings can be accessedthrough the holes in the lower column shroud(except on models where an electronic controlunit is mounted in the lower shroud, in whichcase the shrouds must be removed again).Adjust the position of the column (and henceshrouds) as necessary, then tighten thecolumn fixings securely.

Glovebox - models up to 1992

Removal8 Working under the glovebox, push out thetwo hinge pins, using a suitable punch or thinscrewdriver if necessary.9 Remove the two screws securing the coverto the rear of the lid.10 Lift off the lid, leaving the cover held bythe checkstraps.11 The checkstraps can be removed byreleasing their inner ends.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, notingthat the longer check strap fits on the left.

Glovebox - models from 1993

Removal13 Working under the glovebox, push out thetwo hinge pins, using a suitable punch or thinscrewdriver if necessary (see illustration).14 Release the glovebox catch, andwithdraw the glovebox from the facia (seeillustration).


Carpets16 The passenger compartment floor carpetsare secured at the edges by screws or varioustypes of clips.17 Carpet removal and refitting is reasonablystraightforward, but time-consuming, due tothe fact that all adjoining trim panels must beremoved first, as must components such asthe seats and centre console.

Headlining18 The headlining is clipped to the roof, andcan be withdrawn only once all fittings suchas the grab handles, sun visors, sunroof (iffitted), windscreen, centre and rear pillar trimpanels, and associated panels have beenremoved. The door, tailgate and sunroofaperture weatherstrips will also have to beprised clear.19 Note that headlining removal requiresconsiderable skill and experience if it is to becarried out without damage, and is thereforebest entrusted to an expert.


28.13 Remove the hinge pins . . .

29.9 Removing the handbrake lever dustcover - models up to 1992

29.8 “Highline” centre console fixings -models up to 1992

28.14 . . . and withdraw the glovebox -models from 1993

28.4b . . . and withdraw the lower column shroud

28.4a Remove the securing screws . . .

11

29 Centre console - removal and refitting 2

“Highline” console - models up to 1992

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Move the seats fully rearwards.3 Where applicable, remove the securingscrews, then prise the side panels from thefront of the console. Note that the side panelsare retained by clips at their top edges.4 Prise the cassette box from the front of theconsole, and remove the two now-exposedscrews securing the console to the heaterpanel.5 Slide the front seats fully forward.6 Prise out the blanks from each side at therear of the console, and remove the rearsecuring screws.7 Open the lid of the stowage compartmentat the rear of the console, and remove thescrew from the compartment floor.8 Remove the two screws (one on each side)securing the console to the gear lever bracket(see illustration).9 Pull the handbrake lever dust cover fromthe console (see illustration).10 Prise the gear lever gaiter surround fromthe top of the console, and pull back the gaiter.

11 Lift the console slightly, then disconnectall relevant wiring, and release the wiringharnesses from any clips under the console.12 Withdraw the console over the gear leverand the handbrake lever.


“Lowline” console - models up to 199214 The procedure is similar to that describedpreviously for the “Highline” console, notingthe following points.a) Note that the console is in two sections.b) Where applicable, ignore the references

to the switches.c) Refer to the accompanying illustrations

for the screw locations

“Highline” console - models from 1993

Removal15 Where applicable, remove the frontarmrest.16 Prise out the trim plate covering theconsole centre securing screws. Remove thesecuring screws.17 On manual gearbox models, unclip thegear lever gaiter surround from the centreconsole, then pull up on the gear knob andwithdraw the knob/gaiter assembly.18 On automatic transmission models,proceed as follows.a) Ensure that the selector lever is in the

“Neutral” position.b) Remove the two screws from the gear

selector lever (one on each side of thelever).

c) Twist the selector lever through a quarterturn clockwise, then pull the pushbuttonfrom the top of the lever.

d) Twist the lever a quarter turn back to itsnormal position, then pull off the lever.

e) Unclip the selector gate cover.f) Remove the two securing screws, and

withdraw the selector gate assembly.19 Remove the securing screws, andwithdraw the side panels from the front of theconsole to expose the heater air ducts.20 Remove the securing screws, andwithdraw the air ducts from each side of theconsole.21 Working at the front of the console,disconnect the wiring connectors.22 Fully apply the handbrake, then withdrawthe console over the handbrake lever.

Refitting23 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but onautomatic transmission models, refit theselector lever as follows.a) Ensure that the selector lever is in the

“Neutral” position.b) Slide the lever over the selector rod, and

twist a quarter turn clockwise.c) Pull the lever up until the top of the lever

reaches its stop.

d) Slide the pushbutton into the top of thelever, ensuring that it engages with thegroove in the top of the selector rod.

e) Push the lever down, then twist the levera quarter turn back to its normal position.

f) Check that the pushbutton has locked inposition, and check that the button andthe lever operate correctly.

“Lowline” console - models from 1993

Removal24 Disconnect the battery negative lead.25 Move the front seats as far forward aspossible.26 Unscrew the two centre console rearsecuring screws, then push the seats back(see illustration).27 Prise the handbrake lever surround/switchpanel from the top of the centre console.Where applicable, disconnect the wiring plugsfrom the switches in the panel.28 Pull up the handbrake lever to the “fullyon” position.29 Prise the ashtray from the housing in thefacia centre panel.30 Open the ashtray cover flap, and pull theashtray from the housing.31 Proceed as described in paragraphs 17and 18 (see illustration).32 Remove the two now-exposed consolefront securing screws, then lift the console,and withdraw it over the handbrake (seeillustrations).

Refitting33 Refer to paragraph 23.

30 Facia assembly - removal and refitting 5

Models up to 1992

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the steering wheel as described inChapter 10.3 Remove the steering column shrouds asdescribed in Section 28.4 Remove the instrument panel (Chapter 12).5 Remove the radio/cassette player asdescribed in Chapter 12.6 Remove the securing screws, whereapplicable, and withdraw the side panels fromthe centre console.7 Remove the headlight beam adjuster switchas described in Chapter 12.8 Prise out the ashtray and the oddments trayfrom the facia centre panel.9 Remove the two bolts from the ashtrayrecess, and the single bolt from theradio/cassette player recess (seeillustrations).10 Remove the two screws from the top ofthe oddments tray recess.11 Pull the centre facia panel forwards fromthe facia, then reach behind the panel anddisconnect the wiring from the switches,clock, and cigarette lighter, as applicable.Note the locations of the wiring connectors toensure correct refitting, and remove the faciapanel.


29.26 Unscrew the console rear screws(“Lowline” console - models from 1993)

29.32a Remove the front securing screws . . .

29.32b . . . and withdraw the console(“Lowline” console - models from 1993)

29.31 Removing gear lever gaiter surround(“Lowline” console - models from 1993)

12 Unscrew the four screws securing theheater control panel to the facia (seeillustration).13 Turn the two securing clips through aquarter-turn, then drop the fusebox paneldown from the facia.14 Unscrew the two bonnet release leverbolts from the bracket under the facia.15 Disconnect the wiring from the instrumentpanel lighting rheostat.16 Disconnect the two main feed connectorsfrom the fusebox (see illustration).

17 Working at each side of the facia,disconnect the facia wiring harness connectors,marking them to ensure correct refitting.18 Remove the side footwell trim panel (theleft-hand side panel for right-hand-drivemodels, or the right-hand side panel for left-hand-drive models), then unbolt the earth leadfrom the footwell (see illustration).19 Where applicable, remove the securingbolt, and release the relay bracket from thelower steering column mounting bracket (seeillustration).20 Working in the scuttle at the rear of theengine compartment, unscrew the three faciasecuring nuts (see illustration).21 Remove the single bolt on each side,securing the lower facia mounting brackets tothe footwells (see illustration).22 Remove the remaining two lower faciamounting bolts, one each side of the centreconsole.

23 Reach up behind the heater control panel,and remove the upper facia securing bolt (seeillustration).24 Unbolt the bracing bracket between thegear lever bracket and the centre of the facia.25 Disconnect the remaining steering columnstalk switch wiring connectors.26 Disconnect the wiring from the brake lightswitch.27 Disconnect the wiring from the cigarettelighter and the ashtray illumination light.28 Make a final check around the facia, toensure that all relevant wiring has beendisconnected.29 Carefully pull the facia panel forwards,feeding the speedometer cable and the wiringharnesses through the apertures in the faciaas it is withdrawn. Note the routing of allharnesses and the speedometer cable toensure correct refitting.30 With the aid of an assistant, withdraw the


30.12 Two of the heater control panelsecuring screws

30.19 Remove the bolt securing the relaybracket to lower steering column bracket

30.18 Unbolt the earth lead (arrowed) from the footwell

30.16 Disconnect the two main feedconnectors (arrowed) from the fusebox

30.9b . . . and the single bolt (arrowed)from the radio/cassette player recess

30.9a Remove the two bolts (arrowed)from the ashtray recess . . .

11

30.20 Facia securing nut (arrowed) in scuttle

30.21 Lower facia mounting bracket-to-footwell bolt (arrowed)

30.23 Upper facia securing bolt (arrowed)

Because we found thewiring harnesses to bethoroughly intertwined, wedisconnected all the fusebox

connectors, marking them to ensurecorrect refitting. The fusebox can thenbe removed by releasing the hinge rail.

facia assembly through one of the doorapertures.

Refitting31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.a) Make sure that the facia locating spigots

engage correctly with the holes in thebulkhead.

b) Ensure that the wiring harnesses and thespeedometer cable are correctly routedthrough the facia as it is refitted, as notedduring removal.

c) Ensure that all wiring connectors arecorrectly reconnected.

d) Refit the radio/cassette player and theinstrument panel with reference toChapter 12.

e) Refit the steering wheel (see Chapter 10).

Models from 1993

Removal32 Disconnect the battery negative lead.33 Remove the centre console as describedin Section 29.34 Unscrew the two screws located at thebottom of the ashtray housing (seeillustration).35 Where applicable, remove the radio/cassette player as described in Chapter 12.On models not fitted with a radio/cassetteplayer, prise out the oddments tray.36 Remove the two securing screws from thetop of the radio/cassette player/oddmentstray housing, then withdraw the housing fromthe facia (see illustrations). Whereapplicable, disconnect the wiring plug(s) fromthe rear of the panel.

37 Prise the blanking plate from the topcorner of the facia centre ventilation nozzlehousing. Remove the now-exposed securingscrew (see illustration).38 Remove the four housing securing screwslocated under the heater control panel. Twoscrews are accessible from the front of thehousing, and two screws from underneath(see illustrations).39 Carefully prise the switches from belowthe centre facia ventilation nozzles to revealthe remaining housing securing screw.Remove the screw (see illustrations).40 Pull the housing forwards, and disconnectthe wiring from the clock, then withdraw thehousing (see illustration).41 Working in the driver’s footwell, releasethe securing clips and remove the carpet trimpanel from above the pedals. Disconnect the


30.34 Unscrew the two screws below theashtray housing

30.36b . . . then withdraw the housing

30.38b . . . and the two screws fromunderneath

30.38a Remove the two screws from thefront of the ventilation nozzle housing . . .

30.37 Prise out the blanking plate toexpose the ventilation nozzle housing

upper securing screw (arrowed)

30.36a Remove screws from top of radio/cassette player/oddments housing . . .

30.39a Prise the switches from thehousing . . .

30.39b . . . then remove the remaininghousing securing screw

30.40 Withdrawing the ventilation nozzlehousing

three wiring connectors (see illustrations).Where applicable, release the wiringharnesses from the clips on the facia.42 Remove the securing screw, then pull upthe driver’s footwell side trim panel to releasethe securing clips. Remove the panel, to

expose the wiring connector bracket (seeillustrations).43 Release the two securing clips, and pullthe wiring connector bracket from thefootwell. Disconnect the connectors from thebracket (see illustration).

44 Where applicable (if the earth cableconnects to the facia wiring harness), unboltthe earth cable from the footwell, then releasethe wiring harness from the clips under thefacia.45 Working at the centre of the facia, removethe securing screws, and withdraw the faciacentre side trim panels, to expose the heaterair ducts (see illustrations).46 Where applicable remove the screws, andwithdraw the air ducts (see illustration).47 Cut the cable-tie securing the wiringharness to the bracket at the centre of thedriver’s side facia.48 Release the plastic clips securing thelarge connector block to the bracket on thedriver’s side of the centre facia, then releasethe connectors from the connector block, andseparate the two halves of each connector(see illustration).49 Similarly, working at the passenger’s sideof the centre facia, remove the plastic clipssecuring the connector block to the bracketon the floor and to the heater assembly.50 Working in the passenger’s footwell,release the securing clips, and remove thecarpet trim panel from under the facia.51 Remove the securing screw, then pull upthe passenger’s footwell side trim panel torelease the securing clips. Remove the panel,to expose the wiring connector block. Releasethe connector block from the footwell, andseparate the two halves of each wiringconnector.52 Unbolt the earth lead from the passengerfootwell, then release the wiring harnessesfrom any clips in the footwell (see illustration).


30.42a Remove the securing screw . . .

30.45a Remove the securing screws . . .

30.43 Pull the connector bracket from the footwell

30.42b . . . then remove the footwell side trim panel

30.41b . . . then disconnect the threewiring connectors (arrowed)

30.41a Remove the carpet trim panel . . .

11

30.45b . . . and withdraw the facia centreside trim panels

30.46 Withdrawing an air duct 30.48 Release the connector block fromthe bracket on the driver’s side of the facia

30.52 Unbolt the earth lead from thepassenger’s footwell

53 Remove the securing screw, andwithdraw the bonnet release lever from theside of the footwell (see illustration).54 Remove the steering column shrouds asdescribed in Section 28, but note that, whereapplicable, there is no need to disconnect thewiring from the radio/cassette player remotecontrol switch - feed the switch wiring upthrough the facia (the wiring should have beendisconnected from the rear of theradio/cassette player), and withdraw thewiring complete with the lower shroud.55 Remove the steering column as describedin Chapter 10.56 Remove the two securing screws, andwithdraw the wiring connector/control unitbracket from the left-hand side of the steeringcolumn bracket (see illustration).57 Where applicable, similarly remove thewiring connector bracket from the right-handside of the steering column bracket.

58 Remove the instrument panel asdescribed in Chapter 12.59 Working in the driver’s footwell,disconnect the wiring plug from the stop lightswitch, then release the switch wiring harnessfrom the clips under the facia.60 Unplug the main wiring harnessconnectors, from the connector blockmounted under the driver’s side of the facia(see illustration). To improve access to thewiring connectors, the connector block canbe lowered from the facia by removing thetwo front bolts securing the bracket to thefacia, and the rear nut securing the bracket tothe stud on the bulkhead.61 On left-hand-drive models, remove thescrew securing the wiring bracket to thedriver’s side of the bulkhead, next to theclutch pedal.62 Where applicable, pull the relay out of itsconnector at the rear of the steering column

bracket, then pull the connector out of thebracket (see illustrations).62 Remove the heater control unit asdescribed in Chapter 3.63 Working in the engine compartment,remove the scuttle grille panel (Section 25).64 Remove the securing clip, and withdrawthe plastic shield from the passenger’s side ofthe scuttle (see illustrations).65 On left-hand-drive models, working in thescuttle, remove the heater inlet duct grille, andmove the connector block/electronic controlunit housing to one side for access to thefacia securing nuts.66 Working inside the vehicle, unscrew thetwo bolts securing the facia side brackets tothe footwells (one bolt in each footwell) (seeillustration).67 Similarly, unscrew the two centre facialower securing bolts, one on each side of thefacia centre section (see illustration).

30.67 Unscrew the centre facia lowersecuring bolts

30.66 Unscrew the bolts securing the facia brackets to the footwells

30.64b . . . and withdraw the shield from the scuttle


30.53 Remove the screw and withdraw thebonnet release lever

30.60 Unplug the main wiring harnessconnectors

30.64a Remove the securing clip . . .30.62b . . . then pull the connector fromthe steering column bracket

30.62a Pull the relay out of its connector . . .

30.56 Remove the securing screws andwithdraw connector/control unit brackets

68 Unscrew the centre facia upper securingbolt, located above the heater control unit(see illustration).69 Unscrew the two rear centre faciasecuring bolts, securing the facia brackets tothe heater assembly (see illustration).70 Working in the engine compartment,unscrew the three facia securing nuts locatedin the scuttle (see illustration).71 Make a final check to ensure that allrelevant wiring harnesses have beenunclipped and released from the faciaassembly then, with the aid of an assistant,pull the facia back from the bulkhead. Notethe location and routing of all wiringharnesses, particularly note the location of theVelcro fixings.72 Release the speedometer cable sleevefrom the instrument panel housing in the facia,then manipulate the facia assembly outthrough one of the door apertures (seeillustration).

Refitting73 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.a) Reconnect the wiring plugs to the large

connector block on the driver’s side of thefacia before refitting the facia fixings, andbolting the connector block in position.

b) Check that the air ducts are correctlylocated and engaged with their relevantvents. Access to the passenger’s side airduct can be improved by removing theglovebox (see Section 28).

c) Ensure that all wiring harnesses are

correctly located and routed as notedbefore removal, and ensure that theVelcro fixings are in position, whereapplicable.

d) Refit the heater control unit (Chapter 3).

e) Refit the instrument panel with referenceto Chapter 12.

f) Refit the steering column (Chapter 10).g) Refit the centre console with reference to

Section 29.


30.70 Facia securing nut (arrowed) inscuttle

30.69 . . . and the rear centre faciasecuring bolts

30.68 Unscrew the centre facia uppersecuring bolt . . .

11

30.72 Release the speedometer cablesleeve from the facia

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittingsunix.rulez.org/~calver/haynes_manuals/peugeot_405/1559-11.pdf ·...

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Transcript of Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittingsunix.rulez.org/~calver/haynes_manuals/peugeot_405/1559-11.pdf ·...