CETI – 19 september 2019

CETI HAS INAUGURATED THE FRENCH DEMONSTRATOR FOR THE MECHANICAL RECYCLING OF SHORT FIBRES

CETI HAS INAUGURATED THE FRENCH DEMONSTRATOR FOR

THE MECHANICAL RECYCLING OF SHORT FIBRES On Thursday 19 September, the CETI European Centre for Innovative Textiles inaugurated a new European preview of a unique sustainable development demonstrator for the Textile/Fashion and Luxury sector, which enables used textiles (clothing and industrial production waste) to be recycled. Two years of research and development were necessary to develop this unique prototyping platform that complements CETI's Sustainable Development offer. 2 million euros have been invested in the acquisition of a whole set of machines to mechanically recycle all fibres, and in particular cotton, to make it a new yarn where the recycled component is the major part. Thus, fraying and spinning are combined in the same synchronous process. Used clothing is shredded and frayed. The resulting fibres are homogeneously mixed with a virgin fibre. This blend is then carded and spinned with open-end technology. To date, the results of the experiments, in an upcycling dynamic, are very encouraging: the 100% cotton yarn developed at CETI is composed of 70% recycled fibres and 30% virgin fibres, a rate much higher than the products currently marketed in Europe. This platform is supported by the Strategic Committee of the Fashion & Luxury sector, a committee initiated by the French government. Several brands and manufacturers are partners, including OKAIDI, DECATHLON, TDV INDUSTRIES, as well as the machine manufacturer LAROCHE. Proof of a concrete commitment and conviction for French Excellence.

Upcycling _____ From fabric to fibre & from fibre to yarn

Press release, September 19, 2019

THE FUTURE OF EUROPEAN TEXTILES IS AT STAKE AT CETI

Pascal Denizart, CEO of CETI

The inauguration of our Recycling platform is an opportunity to demonstrate the feasibility of a recycled cotton yarn in a circular economy approach. This is a major step towards the textile industry of the future.

Indeed, fibre consumption is growing even faster than the population, especially with fast fashion, while arable land is losing surface area worldwide. It is as much an environmental necessity as it is a political and societal imperative. Proof of this is the theme chosen by France at the G7 meeting held this summer in Biarritz: sustainable fashion. Creating a textile recycling industry, which does not exist today, is a national priority and that is what CETI is committed to. We act on breakthrough innovations to meet market challenges:

Ensure a sourcing of cotton whose demand is still high on the world market (30% of the fibres used) by using a local deposit of used textiles (CHF) and fabric offcuts;

Find alternatives to polyester, a petroleum-derived fibre that accounts for 70% of global fibre consumption.

The regulatory context, namely the prohibition to destroy unsold goods from 2021 onwards, will also accelerate the transformation of the sector. Brands have the power to move the lines because they are in direct contact with consumers who are increasingly sensitive to health, social and environmental issues. CETI has the ambition to create a new local industrial sector, in a dynamic of circular economy, or even economy of functionality. This is the case, for example, of our partnership with Adidas, with whom we have been working since 2015, to develop a pair of sports shoes that can be recycled 10 times, accessible to consumers in the form of a subscription. Thanks to recycling, these shoes will again be produced in Germany and the Netherlands with a viable business model. We are also working, for example, with the Okaïdi children's brand on a collection of recycled cotton clothing planned for 2020. By federating all the actors of the sector in an industrial approach, and by optimizing the exploitation of the waste, we will be able to produce in the short term a recycled fabric with a quality and a competitive price.

EDITORIAL

On the left Gilles Damez President of CETI, on the right, Pascal Denizart CEO of CETI

Sustainable development objective Agenda 2030, consisting of 17 Sustainable Development Goals, adopted in September 2015 by the 193 UN Member States, provides a framework of universal and binding goals for organizations. As described in ODD 12, an organization’s social responsibility is strongly expressed through its contribution to production and consumption patterns that: Encourage the efficient use of material, water and energy flows and the development of

sustainable production infrastructure and processes (environmental pillar). Strengthen its economic competitiveness (economic pillar). Favour sustainable supply chain management (social and societal pillar). Integrate a circular economy scheme.

In addition, ODD 9 «Innovative industry and infrastructure» equires that each new development of products, services, processes and infrastructures be the subject of a reflection on its overall effectiveness, i.e. its social / societal / environmental contribution. Since its creation in 2012, CETI has integrated Sustainable Development as a strategic axis. It thus supports its stakeholders by making them available to them: - with the best available technologies, - innovation and eco-design methods that contribute to the modernisation and sustainable development of the textile sector.

Since 2014, CETI has been distinguished by the development of new bio-sourced materials such as PLA, bio POLYESTER, POLYAMIDE 11 (nylon equivalent) spun on a castor oil basis. It also favours the lightening of textile structures, thus making it possible to consume less energy while preserving the same mechanical properties. Today, our research is focused on recyclability, in order to reuse waste from the textile clothing or leather industry as well as used textiles. Our ambition is to develop this deposit, locally, to design new high value-added markets that perpetuate this circular economy model. By reinventing end-of-life processing of materials, CETI is supplying the textile industry.

WHY RECYCLING COTTON?

Cotton is the mother's favorite material in the world for their children. It now represents 30% of the world's material consumption. As the world population increases as the share of arable land declines, it is necessary to find new sources of supply that are complementary to cotton agriculture and more sustainable. Recycling used textiles is therefore a way for Europe where cotton is not grown. This approach involves reinventing 3 key steps in the process of revaluing cotton products:

The sorting of textile materials recovered by the collecting organisms. The fraying of fabrics Spinning of the fibres

This approach will ultimately reduce the environmental impact of cotton product manufacturing:

by reducing the quantity of cotton grown, it reduces soil pollution and water consumption,

by eliminating or simplifying the dyeing and finishing stage, by reducing their chemical impact by creating a source of local raw materials

Source press release OKAIDI

"Cotton prices are likely to rise in the medium term and this must be anticipated. A few companies have understood this and CETI is increasingly solicited, particularly on recycling issues. The technological barriers have been lifted, but a major challenge remains: the collection and industrial sorting of used clothing by colour and composition. Strong political action could encourage the creation of sorting centres optimized for material recycling. Our mission is also to raise awareness of this issue among public authorities and the collection and sorting industry "

Isabelle Cornu, Head of Strategic Marketing & CSR at CETI

TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE 4.0 INDUSTRY: MEETING NEW CONSUMER DEMANDS The brands that will be successful tomorrow will be those that have taken the lead in manufacturing automation and close sourcing to meet an increasingly demanding demand. On the one hand, the major trends have lost power; it is the Internet influencers who make fashion for their community, i.e. a small group compared to the global market. On the other hand, the rise in civil society's environmental and social demands is putting pressure on brand profitability, which has already been dulled by the price race and ongoing promotions. This environment calls for agility with smaller production runs adapted to the needs of customer communities. In addition to the recycling of used textiles, consumer demand, particularly from millennia, for personalization and a local short circuit is becoming increasingly important. This requires:

Optimization of the elaboration, validation and production processes, The digitalization of these processes from the capture of consumer data to the virtual design of collections and

their sale, A new approach to design to customize/contextualize products, 3D virtualization of the development to optimize time to market and eliminate unnecessary prototypes, Review of logistics strategies (local sourcing, warehouse operations, etc.), Complete optimization of the value chain to become more sustainable or even circular.

Thus, CETI integrates digital textile innovation as a source of competitiveness and growth for brands. To stimulate creativity within brands and prepare them for the jobs of tomorrow, CETI has created an experiential 4.0 digital workshop space from design to prototyping to short circuit series.

Source Study McKinsey Apparel, Fashion & Luxury Group, october 2018 - Is apparel manufacturing coming home ?

DO YOU KNOW IT?

CETI at the forefront of zero waste design Fabienne Hindré, Development Manager

of the TEXTILE & FASHION DESIGN 4.0 activity at CETI

"Eco-conception also means minimizing waste from the outset. Thanks to a new and innovative stylistic approach, we help professionals to give a function to the entire surface of the fabric by using the smallest detail. 3D design also makes it possible to considerably limit the number of prototypes that are often unused and then thrown away by working as much as possible on digital models. It also represents a significant cost saving and accelerates the time to market for collection models. In addition, CETI places the consumer's desire at the heart of the product offer. We have created a connected shop for brands that allows, from the customer data collected, to analyse the customer's behaviour in terms of travel, choices and tests. This is a major asset for product marketing teams."

CETI, a tailor-made stepping stone to recycling Isabelle Cornu, Head of Strategic Marketing & CSR at CETI

"CETI's main role is to bring together partners to create a virtuous value chain. Everyone thus brings not only funding but also and above all grey matter. CETI's objectives are, on the one hand, to support its customers throughout their project, through an iterative innovation design process to ensure the sustainability of the project and, on the other hand, to carry out engineering, tests, prototypes and pre-series. We therefore act in cooperation with our customers in R&D and integrate their consumers into the loop on this recycling theme. Indeed, the objective is to enable leading actors in their market to manage the end of life of products and unsold items and thus create a dynamic that leads other brands to embark on this path. The mobilization of brands requires the organization of training and support for their CSR policy. Finally, the promotion of innovation among consumers requires in-depth work on criteria of acceptability and desirability. "

INTERVIEWS

TEXTILE ON DEMAND BY UNMADE Among CETI's partners in the innovative textile industry, Unmade, a London-based start-up that raised more than €5 million in July 2019. It is aimed at brands that wish to offer fully customisable clothing. Once the design has been chosen online, the order is sent to the automatic production lines of the Unmade ecosystem. Colour, pattern, printing or knitting: everything can be changed at will. Each part is sold before it is even manufactured, thus avoiding any waste or overproduction.

COMMITTED PARTNERS

REINVENT THE END-OF-LIFE OF TEXTILE ARTICLES TO DESIGN MORE RESPONSIBLE CLOTHING COLLECTIONS IN PARTNERSHIP WITH DECATHLON, TDV INDUSTRIES AND LAROCHE PROJECT FINANCED BY ADEME – AAP Operation realized with the support of Investissements d’Avenir – Circular economy, recycling and validation of waste and co-financing by Métropole Européenne de Lille. REWIND project is inscribed in the ethical circle of a circular economy and plans to deploy industrial installations that can collect, sort, break down and recycle post-consumer textile articles. After demonstration models have been produced, they will be validated by user-client panels at DECATHLON. These tests can then lead to the progressive inclusion of recycled cotton fibers in all the DECA THLON group’s industrial production for woven and knit garments. Brands and manufacturers will be able to use recycled materials that will, over time, considerably help reduce the volume of virgin materials and production costs while optimizing the cotton fibers’ environmental footprint.

REWIND project

CREATE A CIRCULAR ECONOMIC CIRCUIT AROUND COTTON Okaïdi, member of the ÏDKIDS brand community and CETI share the same ambition: to create a circular economic circuit around cotton in order to reduce the environmental impact of this raw material known to be one of the most polluting and water-consuming. It is in 2017 that they launch together a textile innovation project from the recycling of used cotton clothing, obtain a yarn that meets okaïdi’s quality and economic standards and can be woven or knitted by its partners This project is part of Okaïdi’s overall approach to acting more responsibly with all its stakeholders. For CETI, this is a matter of completing the research for textile innovations in a logic of sustainable development of the sector. supply complementary to cotton agriculture and sustainable.

OKAIDI project

CREATE A NEW GENERATION OF FULLY RECYCLABLE SPORTS PRODUCTS

ADIDAS, which is carrying out the "Sport Infinity" research project as part of the European Commission's H2020 initiatives, has contracted CETI and various industrial partners, including BASF, to

carry out research and development work for the creation of a new generation of fully recyclable sports products.

SPORT INFINITY project

THE MANAGEMENT OF WASTE ACRYLIC TEXTILES COMING FROM OUTDOOR AWNINGS AND FURNISHING

A project funded by the European Commission integrating into its consortium

CENTRO TESSILE COTONIERO E ABBIGLIAMENTO SPA (Italy) - UNIVERSITEIT GENT {Belgium) - CETI (CENTRE EUROPEEN DES TEXTILES INNOVANTS (France) - PARA' SPA (Italy)- SOFT CHEMICALS (Italie) - JAK SPINNING KFT (Hungary) – MARTEL (Switzerland)

The REACT project addresses the management of waste acrylic textiles coming from outdoor awnings and furnishing. A crucial issue is the analysis and removal of finishing substances that affect the secondary raw material purity and their management. Then a mechanical recycling process will be implemented to obtain second life fibre and fabrics, which performance will be tested for the best application. A full process to remove hazardous materials on finishing of waste acrylic textile will be investigated and developed, together with a safe utilisation and disposal of removed substances. The final goal is to perform a new process for hazardous chemicals removal from finished acrylic textiles, with innovative investigation and processing techniques ant to obtain a fully compatible recycled acrylic textile for reuse. To maximise the impacts of the project results, recommendations for recycling process implementation, standards, design and technology transfer will be produced.

REACT project

Born in 2012 from a strong political will, the European Centre for Innovative Textiles (CETI) is the concrete expression of the commitment of an entire Region and the European metropolis of Lille to boost a textile sector of the future thanks to the mobilization of all its stakeholders. In 7 years, CETI has built an international leadership in the field of textiles for technical uses. With this reputation and the support of its customers, CETI has positioned itself in the strategic areas of Sustainable Development and Industry 4.0. In this concern to preserve resources, CETI is a pioneer in the improvement of industrial processes and contributes to the influence of its territory, a historical and resolutely resilient textile land. This international dimension places it in the Top 5 of the world's technical centres.

A UNIQUE PLACE TO IMAGINE THE FUTURE OF TEXTILE MATERIALS CETI provides its partners with the best available technologies, innovation design and eco-design methods that contribute to the modernisation and sustainable development of the textile sector. More than a technical innovation tool, it is a unique place to design, experiment, prototype, test and industrialize new products, materials and processes adapted to the needs of the sector and new consumers.

CETI WEAVES ITS WEB AT THE INTERNATIONAL LEVEL

200 PROFESSIONALS were present at the inauguration of the French demonstrator for the mechanical recycling of short fibres, which took place on 19 September.

THANK YOU TO THE SPEAKERS OF OUR ROUND TABLES

CIRCULAR ECONOMY AND NEW BUSINESS MODEL With the participation: Jean-Olivier MICHAUX, Industrial Director (ERAM) - Etienne WIROTH (SYNERGIES TLC) - Nagy

BENSID, Industrial Director (DECATHLON) - Mélanie PAULI-GEYSSE, Public Affairs and CSR Manager (PRINTEMPS)

SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT AND TRACEABILITY With the participation: Nicolas BODART, Director of the Materials Business Unit (PETIT BATEAU) - Grégoire JACOB, Network

Manager (EARTHWORM) - Didier SOUFLET, Industrial Director (OKAÏDI) - Pascal Denizart, CEO (CETI)

A SUSTAINABLE 4.0 INDUSTRY With the participation: Bruno MATTIA, World Sales Director (UNMADE) - Philippe RIBERA, Innovation Director (LECTRA) -

Philippe JOFFARD, CEO (TOPTEX CUBE) - Stéphane LAPORTE, Industrial Cluster Director (ETAM)

RETROSPECTIVE

CETI.COMinnovation@ceti.com