Certified Auditor Training KL

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Kahn Lucas, Inc. Page 9-1 April 23, 2007

Chapter 9 Certified Auditor Training

Overview

Introduction This section describes the certified auditor training policies of Kahn Lucas, Inc.

In this Chapter The topics described in this chapter are located as indicated below:

Topic Page

Orientation 9-2

General Standards 9-12

Manufacturing Process 9-75

Technical Troubleshooting Guide 9-94Quality Tools 9-98


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Orientation

Introduction This section describes the orientation process at Kahn Lucas, Inc.

In this Section The topics described in this section are located as indicated below:

No. Topic Page

1 Training 9-3

2 QA Center Construction Specifications 9-5

3 Housekeeping Considerations 9-6

4 Safety Considerations 9-8

5 Standards of Engagement 9-9

6 Quality Specifications 9-11


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Training

Purpose To detail the training procedures employed.

Description Certified Factory Q.A. Center Auditor:

Certified factory auditors play a critical role in the Q.A. Center. They willperform a final audit in the Q.A. Center to statistically confirm that the lot qualityis within the established acceptable quality levels of 2.5% for quality and 0.4%for count and accuracy. With trained Certified Auditors in place, Kahn Lucas,Inc., eventually, will not re-audit garments from suppliers on a regular basis.

Certified auditors will be employed by our supplier. They will educate factorycolleagues regarding KL Quality Standards. The decisions of the CertifiedFactory Auditors must be fully supported by our suppliers management and mustbe independent of any production influence.

The Factory Auditor Certification Program will ensure that each factory has atleast two Certified Auditors who are knowledgeable about KLsinspection/auditing techniques and quality standards. The auditors will be able tocommunicate with both internal factory personnel and KL field staff regardingdaily quality issues.

Requirements:- Mutual decision between KL and supplier as to who will be Certified

Auditors.- A 2 day training session to ensure the understanding of quality, quality

systems, KL auditing and inspection process/procedures, fine tune auditingskills, and familiarize them with the KL Receiving & Distribution Process,etc.

- Auditors selected should have some knowledge of English.

NOTE: If a Certified Auditor leaves his/her position, it will be the responsibility ofthe Supplier to notify KL and to mutually choose a replacement who will go through

the Auditor Certification Program. KL staff will work with each Supplier to cross-

train additional personnel to make sure that absenteeism or turnover will notadversely affect the factorys ability to ship first quality product. It should be theprimary function of the Certified Factory Auditor to audit all KL product.

Continued on next page


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Training, Continued

Requirements The Training Program for QAC Auditor includes the following:

No. Requirement

1 Quality Standards

2 How to measure

3 Fractions and estimates

4 Defect types and names

5 Use of MIL STD 105E/ANSI Z1.4

6 How to perform quality audits

7 How to perform count and accuracy audits

8 How to read product specification sheets9 Measurements and tolerances

10 How to inspect a garment

11 How to audit a process

12 How to implement and conduct Pre-production initiatives


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QA Center Construction Specifications

Purpose To detail the QA center construction specifications employed.

Description A Q.A. Center is dedicated space used for trained factory personnel to evaluatefinished packed garments. Under ideal conditions, it should be established in aroom or area used solely for this specific purpose.

Q.A. Center Construction Standards:

Color of Ceiling White

Color of Walls White Color of Floor Battleship Gray

Lighting The inspection center is NOT to have any other light sources. Thisincludes natural sunlight from windows, doorways, etc.

The main source of lighting will be fluorescent light fixtures, capable ofprojecting an illumination of 150 foot candles at the top of the inspectionwork surface. Fluorescent fixtures are to be ceiling mounted diagonally overthe inspection stations.

Lamps Cool white

Inspection Stations 42 inches deep X 36 inches in height. 8 or 4 foot inlength. The height of the inspection stations can be adjusted accordingly toaccommodate average height of the population.

Length of inspection table:8 foot for 2 inspectors4 foot for 1 inspector

Work surface to be covered with WHITE Formica. All edges and corners of

the inspection station are to be smooth.

All inspection stations are to have ANTI-FATIGUE matting for theinspectors.


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Housekeeping Considerations

Purpose To detail the housekeeping considerations employed.

Description Good housekeeping promotes quality, safety, cleanliness, and a positive,productive environment. Similar to quality, Hou s ekeeping is everyonesjo b .Some good housekeeping practices are:

No. Housekeeping Considerations

1 No pens, food, or drinks on the manufacturing floor

2 Clean, swept floors.

3 No puddles of water or debris.

4 All garments, cut parts, or fabric or covered with cloth or plastic.

5 Walls behind storage or racking systems are covered.

6 No dirty, ragged, taped, or damaged inspection or operation tables.

7 All operational tables and buggies covered with cloth or plastic.

8 Cleaning pressing covers.

9 Clean garments.

10 Well lit areas.

11 No dust or lint piles on the rafters.

12 No broken or damaged buggies or trolleys.

13 No garments, cuts parts, or fabric touching the floor or on the floor. Thisincludes during pressing or transportation. No garments or parts stored onlow shelves or under tables.

14 All machines with trim off bags, no overflowing disposals. No use ofcardboard boxes for disposal.

15 No missing machine covers or presser foot pads.

16 No employees laying or walking on garments, cut parts, fabric or machines.

17 No machines leaking oil.

18 No tape on machine for guides or making reports.

19 No garments against walls or windows.

20 No high piles or garments or bottlenecks. Garments not heaped in boxes.

21 Organized trim or other areas.

22 Maintenance procedures for all areas, such as pressing, operator

workstations.23 No ripped or torn bags in storage of garment area.

24 Machines and workstations free from stickers, personal effects, and clutter.



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Housekeeping Considerations, Continued

An effective way to install and promote good housekeeping is to outline and posta time line for implementation of all housekeeping procedures. Posting a timeline plan of action which outlines the responsibilities of each department willencourage everyone to take part in good housekeeping. Housekeeping iscontagious. Once the plant begins to see the improvements, all areas will begin tocomply within a short period of time. Most workers will view the housekeepingimprovements as motivation and as benefit to their own welfare.


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Safety Considerations

Purpose To detail the safety considerations employed.

Description Similar to quality, Safety is everyones job. Safe, secure and sanitary conditionsshould be provided for all workers. Safety includes the following:

No. Safety Considerations

1 Fire hydrants calibrated per scheduled maintenance and hung in designatedlocations.

2 All doors unlocked during operational hours. Panic bars in place andoperational.

3 Auditors using proper lifting techniques to move cases (bent knees, liftonly cases acceptable to local safety regulations, etc.) Boxes should not betoo heavy for the Auditors.

4 Care used with knives when opening cases so as not to injure ones self ordamage the product. Slit the box away from self and keep hands awayfrom the cutting area. Place knife in proper location after opening cases.

5 Workable heights adjusted to allow for minimal bending and preventbackaches.

6 Operator stations have mandatory safety devices or covers.

7 Loose clothing, that could get entangled in equipment, is not worn.

8 Pins, clips, tags, etc. are kept in containers.

9 Workers are alert to operator motion, facility equipment, etc.10 Clear aisles.

11 No protruding pipes or raw edges.

12 No exposed hot pipes or wires.

13 Good ventilation in cleaning areas.

14 No garment, parts, or fabric piled near hot areas.

15 Use of button shields.

16 Use of safety gloves.

17 Complete first-aid kits available.

An excellent way to implement and monitor safety is to develop a safety program

through various levels of workers and management. The program should includesafety definitions, plans of action, monitoring programs and an internal auditprogram. Safety is critical to everyones welfare and must be a daily focus.Workers will see the safety improvements as motivation and a benefit to theirown welfare.


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Standards of Engagement

Purpose To detail the standards of engagement.

Description KL and its subsidiaries are committed to producing high quality products at agood value to our customer. The Company follows the letter and spirit of theapplicable laws, and maintains a high standard of business ethics and regard forhuman rights. Moreover, we require sound business ethics from our suppliers.Suppliers must observe all applicable laws of their country, including lawsrelating to employment, discrimination, the environment, safety and the appareland related fields. Suppliers must comply with all applicable United States laws

relating to the import of products, including country or origin labeling, productlabeling, and fabric and product testing. If local or industry practices exceed locallegal requirements, the higher standard applies.

Forced Labor: There shall not be any use of forced labor, whether in the form ofprison labor, indentured labor, bonded labor, or otherwise.

Child Labor:No person shall be employed at an age younger than 15 or youngerthan the age for completing compulsory education in the country of manufacturewhere such age is higher than 15.

Harassment or Abuse: Every employee shall be treated with respect and dignity.No employee shall be subject to any physical, sexual, psychological, or verbalharassment or abuse.

Nondiscrimination:No person shall be subject to any discrimination inemployment, including hiring, salary, benefits, advancement, discipline,termination, or retirement on the basis of gender, race, religion, age, disability,sexual orientation, nationality, political opinion, or social or ethnic origin.

Health and Safety: Employers shall provide a safe and healthy workingenvironment to prevent accidents and injury to health arising out of, linked with,or occurring in the course of work as a result of the operation of employerfacilities.

Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining: Employers shall recognizeand respect the right of employees to freedom of association and collectivebargaining.



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Standards of Engagement, Continued

Wages and Benefits: Employers recognize that wages are essential to meetingemployees basic needs. Employers shall pay employees, as a floor, at least theminimum wage required by local law or the prevailing industry wage, whicheveris higher, and shall provide legally mandated benefits.

Hours of Work: Except in extraordinary business circumstances, employees shallnot be required to work more than the lesser of 60 hours per week or the limits onregular and overtime hours allowed by the law of the country of manufacture.Except in extraordinary circumstances, employees shall be entitled to at least oneday off every seven-day period.

Overtime Compensation: In addition to their compensation for regular hours ofwork, employees shall be compensated for overtime hours at such premium rateas is legally required in the country of manufacture or, in those countries wheresuch laws do not exist, at a rate at least equal to their regular hourly compensationrate.

Note: If you believe that these standards of Engagement are not being upheld or ifyou have any questions regarding these Standards of Engagement, please contacta representative from KL. Your identity will be kept in confidence.


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Quality Specifications

Purpose To detail the quality specifications employed.

Description Written specifications are the best method for consistency. Written specificationsmust always be followed without deviation unless written authorization is sentfrom KL.

Product measurements are to meet specification. Tolerances are added to allowfor variations in the manufacturing process. The tolerances are only foroccasional variations and are not for continual or broad use. If tolerances are

continually used in the manufacturing process, patterns and specifications must bereviewed. Tolerances cannot be changed or ignored. The acceptable quality levelfor measurements is 2.5% defective per shipment in combination with the productquality audit.

Product quality characteristics are to meet customer requirements forworkmanship, mill, and laundry. The acceptable quality level is 2.5% defectiveper shipment. No tolerances exist for customer quality requirements. A defect isa defect and is considered major. No minor categories exist.

Product count and accuracy are to meet customer requirements for count andpackaging/ticketing accuracy. The acceptable quality level is 0.4% defective pershipment. No tolerances exist for count and accuracy. The garment is eithercorrectly ticketed or is incorrectly ticketed. Each count, packaging, or ticketingmistake counts as a defect.

Check all style, source order, color, and shade information against thespecification sheet to confirm correct information is used. All information mustmatch.

Questions about defects, shade, or any other information should be referred to theQuality Supervisor or Product Quality Manager for the area.


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General Standards

Introduction This section describes the general standards in practice at Kahn Lucas, Inc.


No. Topic Page

1 Fractions 9-13

2 Tape Measures 9-14

3 Estimating Lengths 9-17

4 Defect Names 9-18

5 Fabric Standards and Zones 9-19

6 Defect Definition 9-207 Stitches Per Inch/Seams/Stitches 9-21

8 Stripe/Plaid Matching 9-22

9 Trim Cards 9-23

10 Product Specification 9-24

11 U.P.C. Codes 9-25

12 Measurements/Tolerances 9-35

13 Garment Inspection 9-37

14 Quality Standards 9-51

15 Usage of An AQL Plan 9-62

16 Definitions 9-71


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Fractions

Purpose To detail the fractions employed.

Description Many measurements and tolerances used when measuring parts on a garment areexpressed as fractions. An Auditor will need to know how to add, subtract, anddouble these fractions:

Exercise:

1. Add the following fractions and record your answer as a fraction.

1/2 +1/4 = 3/8 1/8 =

1/8 + 1/8 = 3/4 - 1/16 =

1/8 + 3/4 = 3/8 1/4 =

1/16 +1/2 = 5/16 1/8 =

2. Double the following fractions and record your answer as a fraction

25 1/8 = 13 1/2 = 21 1/4 =

11 7/8 = 27 5/16 = 22 3/4 =

15 3/8 = 40 5/8 = 19 3/16 =


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Tape Measures

Purpose To detail the tape measure process employed.

Description A tape measure is a necessary audit tool (preferably a metal one because it willnot stretch). It is the basis for confirming actual garment measurements againstspecified measurements during various stages of the manufacturing process.

If metal tape measures are not used, the tape measures must be calibratedweekly to a hard ruler or metal tape measure. Allocate a standard tapemeasure to be used for calibration only.

All tape measure digits must be clearly legible. Tape measure must be straight and free of tattered or damaged edges.

All metal stops must be intact.

Metal templates, sewing guides, and templates are excellent sources formeasuring. These must be checked weekly for bent or damaged edges orsurfaces or whenever off specifications are noted.

Cardboard is not an ideal material for measuring because it is easily wornand damaged. Humid climates tend to further deteriorate cardboard.

Always follow how to measure guides found in the supplier manual.

Exercise A: Draw in the inch with all measurements.

Exercise B: Calibrate your tape measure and complete the tape measure exercisesbelow. Round to the nearest 16th of an inch.



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Tape Measures, Continued

Part A Measure each line and record findings

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.



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Tape Measures, Continued

Part B Measure each line and record findings


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Estimating Lengths

Purpose To detail the estimating lengths process employed.

Description It is important to be able to estimate lengths. Approximations will enable you toquickly determine if a problem exists and further investigation is needed.

Exercise:

Without a tape measure or any other measuring aid, draw the following lines:

1. 1

2. 1/2

3. 1/4

4. 1/8

5. 3/4

6. 1/16

Now, go back and measure those lines. Repeat this exercise at least three times oruntil an accurate line can be drawn for each length.


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Defect Names

Purpose To detail the defect names employed.

Description Many defect names and codes exist within the apparel industry. In order toremain consistent and to communicate effectively, standard terminology must beused by everyone.

Exercise 1:As you go through the list, review each of the above defects and how they arecaused or where they can be found.

Exercise 2:Name defects and specify in which category the defect belongs.

Exercise 3:Review visual samples of above defects.


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Fabric Standards and Zones

Purpose To detail the fabric standards and zones employed.

Description Many types of defects exist within the apparel industry. Defects can beacceptable and unacceptable depending on where they are located. In order toremain consistent, zones have been created for each type of garment and fabric.

Zone Charts Zone charts have been established to insure consistency when allowing for minordefects such as fabric flaws, fabric flies, or fabric quality variations. All QCcenters and factories shall have the complete zone charts for reference.

The zone diagram outlines various portions of the garment in order of importance.Zone 1 being the most critical.

The zone grid outlines what defects are acceptable or rejectable based on the zonewhere the defect may fall.

Refer to AAMA CD-ROM for defect illustrations.
http://www.americanapparel.org/http://www.americanapparel.org/http://www.americanapparel.org/http://www.americanapparel.org/


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Defect Definition

Definition of All garments shipped to KL are to be of perfect quality and withoutDefective Defects. In addition to the list of Defects which disqualify garments from

being Perfect, an evaluation will be made of the aesthetic value, which thevendor has built into the garments.

Variations in Style, color, and fabric by relative size and location of all Defects

will be considered when assessing a particular garment.

Major Defect The following major defects cause rejection:

Garments whose wash/wear characteristics fail to meet published KLstandards. (e.g., excessive shrinkage, poor color fastness, low strength,etc.)

Fabric/manufacturing defects, which are immediately obvious to acustomer, or which become evident during wearing or washing of thegarment, (e.g., seam failures, unfinished seams, significant conspicuousfabric flaws, etc.)

Garment measurements that exceed the acceptable tolerances on garmentspecifications, causing immediately obvious fit problems.

Garments can be rejected with incorrect or missing labels, hangtags andpolybag markings. It also includes the scannability of bar codes on

hangtags and/or polybag stickers.

Minor Defects The Minor defects that cause corrective measures for subsequent products aregarments containing defects which are not conspicuous and which will not affectthe performance of the garment. These problems will be judged individually ontheir merit.


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Stitches per Inch/Seams/Stitches

Stitches Per All seams have a specified number of stitches per inch (SPI). The higher the SPIInch the stronger the seam. The required stitches per inch will be specified for each

operation on the product specification sheet. Each Certified Auditor will need toverify stitches per inch during auditing.

.


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Stripes/Plaid Matching

Stripe/Plaid The stripe, print, or plaid match is very important to the finished look of aMatching garment. Each customer has certain stripe/plaid match tolerances. Refer to each

spec for plaid match areas and tolerances.

Exercise:Review Stripe/Plaid Match procedures and demonstrate the difference

between balance, match, and tolerance. Demonstrate how to measure the match.Attach actual examples of a good plaid match.

Bad Match and Good Balance

Good Match and Balance

Good Match and Bad Balance


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Trim Cards

Purpose To describe the trim card process employed.

Description In order to assist our facilities with all of the various trim items used per style,trim cards should be created for each style. Trim cards should be provided to eachfacility by the factory and illustrate by style number, the trim item to be used oneach garment.

The trim cards should include fabric (with right side and direction of nap/print),any pocketing, hangers, polybags, shoulder pads, etc. all components.Duplicate trim cards should be posted in the trim room, on the sewing floor, in the

finishing area, and in the Q.A. Center to provide guidance, create awareness, andprevent confusion for all who participate in producing a first quality garment.

Exercise:From the specification sheet, name all trim components that would beplaced on the trim card.


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Product Specification

Purpose To describe the product specification employed.

Description The style Spec is the most important source of information for construction,measuring, inspecting, and auditing. The Spec supersedes all other sources ofinformation. Any conflicting information should be directed to the KL QualityTeam. The Spec contains all the necessary information to produce a garment suchas sewing guidelines, descriptions, colors, seams, seam allowances, stitches,measurements, tolerances, washing, pressing, folding, ticketing, etc. A sampleshould be reviewed to confirm garment construction detailed on the Spec. Anydiscrepancies will be noted on the garment.

During any auditing process, check all style, order, color, and shade informationagainst the specification sheet to confirm that the correct information is beingused. All information must be consistent.

Exercise:Review and discuss a KL Spec. Find the information below on the

following:

Product Specification Sheet:

1. How many colors?2. What fabric is used?3. Is the style laundered?4. What parts of the garment are pressed?5. How is the hem finished?6. How many different seam allowances are used?7. What are two measurements and their tolerances?8. What is written on the care label?9. What other labels are used internally or externally for this style?10. How is the garment packaged?11. Name four other items of information found on the product specification

sheet.12. Name thread color for two styles.13. What is the fabric content?14. What is the pattern #?15. How many types of SPI are used? What type of stitches are used?


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U.P.C. Codes

Introduction This section describes the proper U.P.C. bar coding for hangtags and labels.

NOTE: CHECK THE WEBSTE FOR MOST RECENT INFORMATION


No. Topic Page

1 U.P.C. Product Tagging 9-26

2 Proper Hangtag Attachment and Rotation 9-27

3 General Information Requirements 9-28

4 Kahn Lucas Hangtag Format 9-295 Checklist for Verifying Hangtags 9-30

6 Barcode Printing Equipment 9-31

7 Barcode Verifying Equipment 9-32

8 QC200 PSC Scanner Setup Instructions 9-33


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U.P.C. Product Tagging

Requirements Suppliers must remember the following important requirements:

Purpose Proper tagging ensures efficient product movement through both KL and itsstrategic partners distribution centers.

Non-compliance with U.P.C. tagging requirements results in:

Loss of critical order fulfillment time to perform tagging at theDistribution Center

Additional cost for which the consumer is unwilling to compensate KL.

Description The processes for implementing U.P.C. product tagging include:

100% accurate carton definition

100% accurate bar-coded inventory control

100% verification of picked, sorted, and packed customer orders.

CONSULT MANUAL FOR MOST CURRENT INFORMATION


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Proper Hangtag Attachment and Rotation

Purpose It is important that the proper rotation of these tags and bags are followedbecause.

Description There are many styles that require either disclaimers, jewelry hangtags, specialfabric hangtags, or extra button bags. The attachment is always done by SWIFTTACH or TACH IT BARBS. The length of these barbs will be specified oneach styles specification sheet. The locations are clearly identified in this manualin the Bookfold Label and Hangtag section.

Hangtag The rotation should be as followsRotation

The regular division hangtag should be on top, with printed barcode, stylenumber, and suggested retail price facing up

Followed by any disclaimers, jewelry tags, or special fabric tags

White paper button bag should be below the disclaimers or other tags.


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General Information Requirements

Requirements The following is a list of general information requirements on hangtags:

No. Requirement

1 All hangtags must be attached as per instruction in this manual or noted onthe Specification Sheet. The only approved method of attachment is withthe SWIFT TACH BARB system. Be sure to use an extra fine needle andonly attach through the seam. Do not place the needle though the fabricitself, this will create holes.

2 All hangtags are to be audited as any other trim item. This is to be doneusing the MIL-STD-105E the same as you would audit the garmentshipment. Make sure that all sizes and colors are checked. Be sure to us themost updated U.P.C. Data Sheet to confirm that all data is correct.

3 Create your U.P.C.s based on the UCC specifications. A 95% nominalversion A or B ANSI Standard U.P.C. format bar code should be 1 3/16in length (including quiet zone) and 1 2/16 in height with the narrowestbar or space width of 13 mil. (+ or 4 mil).

4 Video and written programming instructions have been distributed to alloffices to ensure that the proper setting maintenance and use of the quickcheck verifiers. (Both 200 and 500 series PSC units). Please be sure thatthe number on the quick check window is the same as the human readablenumbers on the hangtag.

5 If any suggested retail prices are being changed by stickers because of amistake (with an authorization from the Operation Department), it may be

only done to lower the original price. Any time a suggested price must beraised, a complete new hangtag is required. The stickers used must be nolonger or wider than the original perforated section on the hangtag. Inaddition, the words, SUGGESTED RETAIL are required on the hangtag.

6 Except for the suggested retail price, No other data on the hangtag may bealtered. The bar coded data is only good for the original size, color, andstyle. All hangtags must be exposed in the polybag with the size and stylevisible in the front of the garment.

Note: The primary responsibility for proofing hangtags (correct Div., Style #,spelling of Group names, correct bar coded information, NRF color codes,ANSI A or B scan grade readability, or corrected suggested retail price) remainswith the contractors Production Department and facilities.

NOTE: CONSU L T M ANUAL F OR MOST RECENT I N FORMATION


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Kahn Lucas Hangtag Format

Purpose To describe the Kahn Lucas hangtag format employed.

Description All hangtags must be attached as per instructions on the specification sheet. Eachticket should contain the following items:

No. Item

1 Style Number

2 NRF color code (3 digits)

3 Group name

4 Printer identification

5 Numeric 12-digit U.P.C. code6 Suggested retail price

7 Size information

8 U.P.C. barcode

9 Perforated section


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Checklist for Verifying Hangtags

Purpose To describe the checklist employed for verifying hangtags.

Checklist The following is a checklist for verifying hangtags meet all requirements:

No. Item

1 Must have a current U.P.C. data sheet.

2 Check style #.

3 Check NRF code (numeric 3 digit color code).

4 Group name (spelling must be correct).

5 Check size.6 Check suggested retail price.

7 Scan barcode for readability and correct U.P.C. code for style.

8 Check for correct divisional name on opposite side of tag.

Most The following list describes the most common problems found with hangtags:Common

Problems

No. Item

1 Attaching tags to wrong style garments.

2 Missing digit or wrong number on tag.3 Attaching wrong NRF (color) on garment.

4 Incorrect spelling of group name.

5 Attaching wrong size on garment.

6 Check suggested retail price.

7 U.P.C. code belongs to a different style.

8 Factory is not using a verifier to check U.P.C. code.

9 Do not change the NRF code or style # or cover with a printed stickerbecause it will not match the barcode.

Note: The best way to solve problem #3 is to have the factory attach a swatch of

each color to the U.P.C. Data Sheet and have the staff that attaches the tags usethis as a visual aid.


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Barcode Printing Equipment

Purpose It is the desire of KL to have each contractor, working for KL, to be self-sufficientas far as providing trimming.

Description All contractors will need to have equipment in their facility, which will enablethem to print the size, style, lot, group name, and bar codes on roll stock.

Price Since the volume of KL is of a substantial quantity, we have obtained excellentprices for the equipment and materials to accomplish our goals. Even though youas a contractor will directly purchase the equipment and materials, these prices

will be passed on to you due to your working relationship with KL.

Vendor The following is a list of the already established approved vendors:

No. Item

1 Paxar Corp. U.S.A 32 W. 39th Street, 14th floor New York, NY

10018 Phone: (212) 768-7700


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Barcode Verifying Equipment

Purpose To verify the accuracy and readability of the barcode information on hangtags andstickers. All contractors will need to have a verifier to scan and evaluate thebarcode information.

Description The barcode verifier is the most basic tool necessary for any successful barcodeprogram.

Price Since the volume of KL is of a substantial quantity, we have obtained excellentprices for the verifiers. Even though you as a contractor will directly purchase the

verifier, these prices will be passed on to you due to your working relationshipwith KL.

Vendor The following is a vendor for purchasing the verifier:

Vendor Item

Product Identifications andProcessing Systems, Inc.436 East 87st StreetNew York, NY 10128-6502

Glenn NivenPhone: (212) 996-6000Fax: (212) 410 7795http://www .pips.com/

Procedure The following is a list of the already established approved vendors:

No. Action

1 Whoever is actually producing the hangtags will be responsible for the

accuracy and readability of the barcode and its related information ofthe style/color#/size/group name and price.

2 The barcode must be checked with a verifier to determine if the barcodeis acceptable to the ANSI standard A or B. Auditing of these tags

should follow the MS-105E using the 2.5 double sampling plan.3 The auditing should also be performed by the factory upon receipt of thetags and at the final audit.

4 Verifying should also include QAC and field associates.

5 The information should always match the most recent UPC data sheet.
http://www.pips.com/http://www.pips.com/http://www.pips.com/


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QC200 PC Scanner Setup Instruction

Purpose The purpose of this procedure is to reset the #200 scanner to original standardsettings of ANSI CODE B or better and 95% standard.

Figure 1:

Barcode

Procedure Print and Scan the above barcode to recalibrate the scanner, then follow steps 1-25:

Step Switches Read-Out

1 Power QC 200 06/660

2 SELECT REFLECTOMR

3 SELECT -SPECS-

4 SCROLL -CODES-

5 SELECT USS-CODABR

6 SELECT COD 39 NO CK

7 SELECT INT 25 NO CK 8 SELECT UPC/EAN 1.0

9 SCROLL Scroll until reading is UPC/EAN .95

10 SELECT CD 128 MODES

11 SELECT CD 16K MODES

12 SELECT MSI NOUSRCK

13 SELECT IATA 25 OFF

14 SELECT REG 25 OFF

15 SELECT -TESTS-

16 SCROLL Scroll until reading is ANSI PR QUAL B

17 SELECT NORMAL ACCUR

18 SELECT AVG. DMARGIN19 SELECT LRT. GRADES



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QC200 PC Scanner Setup Instruction, Continued

Step Switches Read-Out

20 SELECT SCNS/SYM 10

21 SELECT -CONFIG.-

22 SELECT SAVESETINGS

23 SCROLL **CONFIRM**

24 SCROLL VERSION 8613

25 SELECT QC 200 06/660

Note: (*) scroll until the desired percent of 0.95% of UPC standard appearson the read out screen and then continue to step 10.

For more information on the QC200 PSC Scanner contacthttp://www . pips.com/

http://www.pips.com/http://www.pips.com/


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Measurements/Tolerances

Introduction This section describes the measurement/tolerances used at KL.

Description Measurements are one of the three quality audit categories. The other two arespecifications (mill, manufacturing, and laundry) and count/accuracy.

Measurements are divided into two categories: critical and noncritical. Criticalmeasurements are points that are crucial to how the garment fits the body. Theyare measured on every garment during the in process and final audit. The suppliermanual will specify which measurements are critical.

Noncritical measurements refer to points that do not have to be measured onevery garment. All noncritical measurements are to be taken on the first garmentof every size. If any noncritical measurements are found out of tolerance duringthe initial measuring of each size then the noncritical measurement out oftolerance must be measured on the remaining samples within the sample size (inaddition to the critical measurements already being taken).

Remember: All measurements are important and must meet specification.Tolerances have been added to allow for variations in the manufacturing processand are not for continual or broad use. If tolerances are continually being used, themanufacturing process, patterns, and specifications must be reviewed since thespecification is no longer the normal or process average. Never change or ignoretolerances.

Note: If a large number of measurements are taken in process it is only necessary toplot the measurements found Out of Tolerance. If only Out of Tolerancemeasurements are plotted, a tally mark must be placed on the audit sheet by size to

show how many garments were measured but not recorded. This same procedure may

be used for final audit measuring. However, the first garment of each size must haveall measurements recorded. The subsequent sizes may be plotted only if Out ofTolerance and if within tolerance will be shown as a tally mark.

The acceptable quality level for measurements is 2.5% defective per shipment in

combination with the product quality audit.

Each customer has different quality standards and thus has different measurementtolerances. The style Master Spec will contain the specific measurement tolerances.The How to Measure Guide in the supplier manual must be used.



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Measurements/Tolerances, Continued

When taking measurements:

Use a flat, clean, smooth surface.

Never measure on top of other garments, carpet, fabric, or other surfaces,which may distort the garment.

Garments should be gently smoothed of all wrinkles and laid completelyflat on the table.

Check both sides of garment to assure equal length such as Sleeve Length.

Always check for Operator guides, trim off, gauges, and report any

missing guides/gauges or incorrect trim off to Supervisor.

Critical This section describes critical measurements:Measurements

Blazer/TopBust

SkirtWaist relaxed

PantWaist

Across Shoulder Waist extended InseamSleeve Length Low Hip Front RiseCB Length Length Low HipArmhole

Measure the first garment in its entirety. Balance; check critical measurementsunless an Out of Tolerance appeared during the first measurement.


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Garment Inspection

Purpose To describe the garment inspection process employed.

Description Garment inspection can vary depending on personal technique. This createsvariation in the way each garment is reviewed and inspected. Certain areas maybe missed and consistency sporadic. The most important aspect of inspection is toconsistently look at the total garment the same way.

The recommended inspection methods are performed in the following order:1. Clockwise inspection from the bottom front outside2. Clockwise inspection on the inside

3. Clockwise inspection of the outside back

This method allows for each area to be inspected only once and the inspection hasa smooth, efficient flow. Standardization of inspection procedures will assure thatall facilities view the garments in a consistent manner and cover all applicableareas, inside and outside.

Several items are very important for proper inspection to occur:

One garment on the inspection table at a time

Measurement specification must be hung and visible

Trim card must be available

Tape measure

A clean, clear table of proper size to accommodate the entire garment

Proper lighting

No distractions

Use of pencils (not ink pens)



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Garment Inspection, Continued

Quality Manual

Diagrams and zone charts

MIL STD 105E or ANSI A1.4

Audit Forms

The following are examples for reference:

Lined Blazer

Cardigan Sweater

Top

These inspection procedures are recommended for all inspecting and auditing.During inspection, many areas need to be checked for potential problems anddefects.

Exercise:

Demonstrate the inspection of garments produced in the facility using the newClockwise Method of inspection.


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Inspection Method Lined Blazer

Purpose To describe the inspection method employed for a lined blazer.

Description

1. Prepare audit station. Clear table. Prepare audit worksheet, specification sheet,trim card, style package.

2. Pull sample size based on lot size.3. Perform outside visual of bag. Verify sticky ticket and any outside labeling.4. Remove bag and hanger. Check hanger for correct size and distortion of

hanger.5. Lay blazer flat on table front side up. View overall appearance. Check for

torqueing of fabric.6. Inspection is done in a clockwise direction, beginning at the bottom of thegarment and moving up the wearers left side.

7. Inspect wearers left front side of blazer.

Procedure Possible Defects

Check front for appearance Stains, soils, shading

Check outside bottom hem Broken stitches/threads, uneven hem

Check frontal features (pockets, darts,embroidery)

High/low pockets, mismatched features

Unbutton and button the buttons Missing buttons, broken/skipped stitches

Check/splay front panel and top stitch onlapel

Broken/skipped stitches, holes, etc.

Check collar join seam and front dart, Broken/skipped/missing stitches, holes,placement

Check inside labels Missing labels, skipped/broken stitches,placement

Check/splay shoulder seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes, pleats

Check/splay front armhole and backarmhole

Broken/skipped stitches, holes, pleats

Check/view sleeve during armhole splay Stains, soils, holes, etc.

Check inside cuff Holes, pleats

Check ticketing and hangtags on cuff Missing/torn items, wrong informationCheck/splay underarm seams Broken/skipped stitches, pleats, holes

Check/splay side seam Broken/skipped stitches, pleats, holes

Check inside hem stitching Broke/skipped/missing stitches, holes,uneven hem



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Inspection Method Lined Blazer, Continued

8. Inspect wearers right side of blazer.



Check frontal features (pockets, etc.) High/low pockets, misalignment

Check/splay side seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes, pleats

Check/splay underarm seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes, pleats

Check ticketing and hangtags on cuff Missing/torn items, wronginformation

Check inside cuff Holes, pleats

Check/splay front armhole and backarmhole Broken/skipped stitches, holes, pleats

Check/view sleeve during armholesplay

Stains, soils, holes, etc.


Check/splay front panel and top stitchon lapel


Check collar join seam and front dart, Broken/skipped/missing stitches,holes, placement

Align left and right front checkcollar and lapel points

Misalignment

9. Inspect inside of blazer, moving from the bottom of the blazer up wearers leftside.



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10. Wearers left, inside of blazer.


Check back panel and centerseaming, if any


Check inside labels Missing/torn labels, broken/skippedstitches

Check close collar Uneven placement, broken/skippedstitches

Check should pad Not tacked/stitched

Check/splay armhole Broken/skipped stitchesInvert left sleeve and check stitching Broken/skipped missing stitches,holes

Check join facing to lining and sidepanel

Misplaced facing, not joinedcorrectly

Check side seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes

Check lined cuff Broken/skipped stitches, pleats

Check bottom hem stitching Broken/skipped stitches, holes,uneven hem



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11. Wearers right, inside of blazer.


Check bottom right side of hem Broken/skipped stitches, holes,uneven hem

Check inside button hole Frays, missing/broken/skippedstitches


Check right side seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes

Check join facing to lining and side

panel

Misplaced facing, not joined

correctlyInvert right sleeve and check stitching Broken/skipped missing stitches,holes

Check/splay armhole stitching Broken/skipped missing stitches,holes



12. Grab blazer by shoulder points and flip over. Check back for fabric flaws,

sewing and cutting defects. Look for soils, stains, and shading.

13. Take measurements on back of blazer.Measure all points on first blazer of size.Measure only critical points on remaining blazers in each size.Critical points: Across shoulder, center back, bust, armhole, sleeve

14. Document all measurements and defects.

15. Follow the same steps on all blazers in sample size.



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Inspection Method Cardigan Sweater

Purpose To describe the inspection method employed for a cardigan sweater.

Description

1. Prepare audit station. Clear table. Prepare audit worksheet, specification sheet, trimcard, style package.

2. Pull sample size based on lot size.3. Perform outside visual of bag. Verify sticky ticket and any outside labeling.4. Remove bag and hanger. Check hanger for correct size and distortion of hanger.5. Lay sweater flat on table front side up. View overall appearance. Check for

torqueing of fabric.

6. Inspection is done in a clockwise direction, beginning at the bottom of the sweaterand moving up the wearers left side.

7. Inspect wearers left front side of sweater.




Check frontal features (pockets, darts,

embroidery)



Check/splay front panel Broken/skipped stitches, holes, etc.






Check cuff, inside and outside Holes, pleats

Check ticketing and hangtags on cuff Missing/torn items, wrong information

Check/splay underarm seams Broken/skipped stitches, pleats, holes


Check inside hem stitching Broke/skipped/missing stitches, holes,

uneven hem



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Inspection Method Cardigan Sweater, Continued

8. Inspect wearers right side of cardigan sweater.



Check frontal features (pockets, etc.) High/low pockets, misalignment


Check/splay underarm seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes, pleats

Check ticketing and hangtags on cuff Missing/torn items, wronginformation


Check/splay front armhole and backarmhole Broken/skipped stitches, holes, pleats




Check/splay front panel Broken/skipped stitches, holes, etc.

9. Inspect inside of sweater, moving from the bottom of the sweater up wearersleft side.



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10. Wearers left, inside of sweater.


Check inside hem (complete, left toright

Check back panel Soils, stains, shading

Check/splay should seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes

Check/splay armhole Broken/skipped stitches

Check inside of buttonholes andbacks of buttons

Frays, loose/broken thread

Invert left sleeve and check stitching Broken/skipped/missing stitches,holes

Check side seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes

11. Wearers right, inside of sweater


Check inside hem seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes

Invert left sleeve and check stitching Broken/skipped/missing stitches,

holes

Check/splay armhole Broken/skipped/missing stitches,

holesCheck/splay should seam Broken/skipped/missing stitches,holes

12. Grab sweater by shoulder points and flip over. Check back for fabric flaws,sewing and cutting defects. Look for soils, stains, and shading.

13. Take measurements on back of sweater.Measure all points on first sweater.Measure only critical points on remaining sweaters in each size.Critical points: Across shoulder, center back, bust, armhole, sleeve


15. Follow the same steps on all sweaters in sample size.



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16. Wearers right, inside of blazer.


Check inside button hole Frays, missing/broken/skippedstitches


Check right side seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes

Check join facing to lining and sidepanel

Misplaced facing, not joinedcorrectly

Invert right sleeve and check stitching Broken/skipped missing stitches,

holesCheck/splay armhole stitching Broken/skipped missing stitches,holes



17. Grab blazer by shoulder points and flip over. Check back for fabric flaws,sewing and cutting defects. Look for soils, stains, and shading.

18. Take measurements on back of blazer.Measure all points on first blazer of size.Measure only critical points on remaining blazers in each size.Critical points: Across shoulder, center back, bust, armhole, sleeve


20. Follow the same steps on all blazers in sample size.


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Inspection Method Top

Purpose To describe the inspection method employed for a top.

Description

1. Prepare audit station. Clear table. Prepare audit worksheet, specification sheet, trimcard, style package.

2. Pull sample size based on lot size.3. Perform outside visual of bag. Verify sticky ticket and any outside labeling.

4. Remove bag and hanger. Check hanger for correct size and distortion of hanger.5. Lay top flat on table front side up. View overall appearance. Check for torqueing of

fabric.6. Inspection is done in a clockwise direction, beginning at the bottom of the garment

and moving up the wearers left side.7. Inspect wearers left side of top.




Check frontal features (pockets, darts,embroidery)



Check/splay outside collar seam and topstitch


Check/splay inside collar seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes, etc.







Check ticketing and hangtags on cuff Missing/torn items, wrong information


Check outside vent top stitching Broken/skipped stitches

Check/splay inside stitching and anyinside labels

Broke/skipped/missing stitches, holes,missing labels

Check inside side seam three inches oneach side

Broke/skipped/missing stitches, holes,pleats



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Inspection Method Top, Continued

8. Inspect wearers right side of top.


Check/splay right vent insidestitching

Broken/skipped stitches, holes

Check right vent outside topstitching Broken/skipped stitches, holes

Check inside hem (complete, left toright

Uneven hem, broken/skipped stitches

Check cuff, inside and outside Broken/skipped stitches, holes


Check/splay underarm seam Broken/skipped stitches, holes, pleatsCheck/splay front armhole and back

armhole





9. Grab top by shoulder points and flip over. Check back for fabric flaws, sewingand cutting defects. Look for soils, stains, and shading.

10. Take measurements on back of top.

Measure all points on first top of size.Measure only critical points on remaining tops in each size.Critical points: Across shoulder, center back, bust, armhole, sleeve


12. Follow the same steps on all tops in sample size.


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Quality Standards

Introduction This section describes the quality standards employed.


No. Topic Page

1 Garment 9-52

2 Buttons 9-54

3 Labels 9-55

4 Other 9-56

5 Stitches and Seams 9-57

6 Threads 9-587 Finishing 9-59

8 Pressing 9-60

9 Repairs 9-61


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Garment

Purpose To describe the quality standards for a garment.

Description Product quality characteristics must meet customer requirements forworkmanship, raw materials, and after treatment. The acceptable quality level is2.5% defective per shipment. No tolerances exist for customer qualityrequirements. A defect is a defect and is considered major. No minorcategory exists.

Garment must be free of needle cuts, holes, slubs, snags, openseam, raw edges, and any other flaws or defects that may affect theappearance or the durability of the garment. See the list of defects(Section D).

Garments must be free of untrimmed or loose threads, stains, pills,defective stitching, tape, cleaning solution, embroidery hoop marks, orany other visible defects.

Fabric stitch, pattern, and nap directions within a garment must bethe same for all parts.

Garments must not have any shaded parts.

Color must fall within acceptable shade bands.

Color must be consistent from garment to garment.

All specifications must be adhered to. No deviations are permittedwithout express written consent from the Kahn Lucas Quality Team.

Overall appearance must be consistent from garment to garment.

No garment parts may be caught in any unrelated operation

Garments must be free of any dirt, lint, or threads sewn into seams

or inside collars, hems, etc.



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Garment, Continued

All garment components must recover to original dimension within5 minutes, if required to be stretched in order to be worn.

All seam joins must align.

Garments must be symmetrical and balanced for patterns, stripes,and dimensions.

All panels and components within a garment must match for color,shade, and cast. This includes collars, armbands, and the other trimswhen the same color is specified.

Fabric torque is not acceptable on any unwashed program. On

wet- process programs torque must meet specific customerrequirements.

No sleeves or legs should be twisted.

Cuff seams must meet an underarm seam.

Armhole seams must meet at underarm/side seam point.

All pockets, flaps, lapels, etc. must be balanced and even.

Fly area must have fullness caught in outline.

Shape of fly must be according to style package.

All tacks must be positioned according to style package.

Fly tack must not be below slider when in lowest position.

Pockets must be parallel with bands symmetrical on each panel.

Collars must be made like all other points.


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Buttons

Purpose To describe the quality standards for a button.

Description All buttons must be securely stitched using a 301 series lock

stitch machine.

Buttons must not create puckers when buttoned.

Buttons on a garment must be of consistent shade from one to another.

All buttons must be sewn face up and facing the direction specified

in trim package.

Buttonholes must be lock-stitched, cleanly cut open with no rawedges, the correct size, and direction (horizontal or vertical).

Buttonhole stitching must catch all layers of fabric securely and

not pull away.

Buttonholes must not contain loose, broken or extra stitches.

Buttonholes must be easily buttoned through.

All metal findings must be rust-proof.

For wet-process programs, buttons must be attached after wash

unless otherwise specified.

Buttons must not be chipped, cracked, discolored, or broken.

Snaps, eyelets, grippers, etc., must be attached through at least

two plies of fabric or otherwise reinforced.

Buttons and buttonholes, snaps, and fasteners must be aligned and

not cause excessive fullness when fastened.


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Labels

Purpose To describe the quality standards for a label.

Description All labels (main, care, content, size, etc.) must be as specified,

attached securely, meet federal regulations, and placed as specified inthe product specification sheet.

Labels must be centered.

Labels must be of correct size, wording, legible, and in

proper location.

Label stitching must be back tacked with no less than two stitches,

no more than three stitches.

Stitching must not run off label.

Thread color for labels, buttons, and buttonholes must be as

specified for body thread color.


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Other

Purpose To describe the other quality standards.

Description Bags must be free of tears, dirt, and of proper size.

Hang tags must be as specified on the product specification sheet.

Zippers must slide easily and be free of any broken or damaged teeth.

Trim shade must match body fabric.

Zipper tape must not bulge, ripple, or be wavy. Tape must notbe exposed on outside.

Belts must be of correct length, free of broken stitches, frays,

backing showing on front side, and of consistent and appropriateshade.

All belts must be correctly printed with size.

Any metal trim must be free of rust, stains, or discolor.

All findings must be securely attached and compatible with the

wear, care instructions, and life of garment.

Belt loops must be straight, balanced, and free of raw edges.

Bands must be of consistent width.

Darts must be secure, properly placed, and even.


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Stitches and Seams

Purpose To describe the quality standards for stitches and seams.

Description Seams must be even in width and lie flat, with no twisting,

puckering, wavering, or pleats.

All seams must be clean finished. Raw or pinked edges are not

acceptable. Tape, ribbon, etc., must be used where specified to finishor cover seams.

Stitches must be even. Skipped or broken stitches are not acceptable.

Stitches per inch (SPI) must be as specified.

Start and stop stitching on cover stitching must be at a non-

visible point.

Stress points, such as pocket edges, must be reinforced as specified.

Stitching tension must be even. Loose or tight stitching is

not acceptable.

No concealed stitching may show.

All double or triple needle stitching must be parallel and even,

and must be parallel with the seam or garment edge.

Topstitching must be as specified and a consistent distance from

the edge.

All stitching not secured in another seam must be back tacked with

at least two stitches, no more than three.


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Threads

Purpose To describe the quality standards for threads.

Description Thread color, size, and type must match specifications.

Top and bobbin threads must match unless otherwise specified.

Threads must be cleanly clipped within on all seam types

and locations


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Finishing

Purpose To describe the quality standards for finishing.

Description All residue from cleaning fluids should be removed.

All tape or stickers other than inspection stickers inside the

garment must be removed.

All residue from ply marking stickers should be removed.

Garments must be free of odor.


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Pressing

Purpose To describe the quality standards for pressing.

Description Garments that are pressed or steamed should be free of wrinkles,

creases, or other signs of poor pressing. Garments must be free ofpressing marks, shine, scorching, or burn marks.

Garments must be free of pressing marks, shine, scorching, or

burn marks.

Pressing must comply with the Style Master Spec.

Pressing must not contain unnatural creases or folds.

Busted seams are to be pressed open.

Garments must be free of wavy or puckered seams.


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Repairs

Purpose To describe the quality standards for repairs.

Description Repairs must be unnoticeable and of sufficient quality not to affect

the appearance or the durability of the garment.

Repairs inside the garment must not interfere with the wearability

or appearance of the garment.

Repairs must not cause needle cuts or other defects.

Chain stitching, coverstitching, or other topstitching must be in thesame line as original stitch. Tie the ends of the repair stitch to the endsof the original stitch on the underside at the ravel back end of thechainstitch.

Needle marks from original stitching are not acceptable.

Any topstitching repairs must be restitched from side seam, loop,

or placed at a hidden tie in.

Repairs or oversews must have 3 to 5 or tie in stitches.

Zippers and pockets may not be repaired; they must be

completely redone.

Any repairs on the front must be unnoticeable.

Contrast stitching may not be repaired, stitching must be

completely redone.

Thread used for repairs must be a close match to afterprocessing color.

Repairs made prior to processing must be of the exact thread used

in production, especially with dyed or special processing programs.

All threads must be pulled to underside.


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Usage Of An AQL Plan

Introduction This section describes the usage of an AQL Plan.

Description AQL stands for Acceptable Quality Level. It denotes the acceptable percentageof defective pieces allowed for any given lot and is expressed in terms of %defective or defects per 100 units/garments.

Neither sampling nor 100% inspection can guarantee every defective item in a lotwill be found. Sampling involves a possibility that the samples will notadequately reflect the conditions in the lot. There are two risks associated withsampling (typically 5-10%):

1. Consumer Risk probability of a defective shipment getting to consumer2. Producers Risk probability of rejecting an acceptable shipment3. Follow the AQL Inspection Procedure in the Kahn Lucas Manual on the

Web.4. Use the AQL charts as explained below.

SEE S EPARATE PREPACK PROCEDURE


No. Topic Page

1 MIL STD 105E/ANSI Z1.4 9-63

2 Single, Double, or Multiple 9-64

3 AQLs or Acceptable Quality Levels 9-65

4 Acceptable/Reject Criteria 9-66

5 Hanging Count and Accuracy Audit Procedure 9-67


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MIL STD 105E/ANSI A1.4

Purpose To describe the MIL STD 105E/ANSI Z1.4 sampling plans employed.

Description No sampling plan exists that will discriminate perfectly; there always remainssome risk that a good lot will be rejected or that a bad lot will be accepted.

The MIL STD 105E or ANSI Z1.4 sampling plans minimize this risk foraccepting a bad lot (consumer risk) and rejecting a good lot (producer risk).

For sampling plans to function correctly, the plans must be used according to therules. The following are critical to proper use of the plans.

Lot must be 100% complete.

Sampling must be pulled randomly and from the entire lot.

Lot must be homogeneous with no mix of styling and color.

All failed lots must be 100% inspected and resubmitted for audit.

Accept and reject criteria must be followed.

Entire sample size must be inspected for all sampling criteria.


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Single, Double, or Multiple

Purpose To describe the single, double, and multiple sampling plans employed.

Description Varying the sampling type allows the acceptance or rejection to occur at intervalsinstead of requiring a complete single sample to be inspected. Time is savedwhen quality is either very good or very bad.

SINGLE SAMPLING has one defined sample per lot with one defined plan foraccepting and rejecting. It requires the most time consuming sampling but is theleast administrative.

DOUBLE SAMPLING has an initial defined sample which has an accept, reject,and an in-between (neither accepted nor rejected). If the accept or reject is meton the initial sample the lot audit is completed and the shipment is either acceptedor rejected. If the defects fall in-between the accept and reject, a second sample ispulled. The second sample is always the same size as the first sample. Withdouble sampling the initial sample is smaller than that of a single sampling planand therefore less time is spent on sampling. Over a period of time, it is commonto reject or accept on the first sample. The MIL STD 105E states that underdouble sampling 40% fewer samples are reviewed, and the same quality level isachieved. The negative side to double sampling is the additional administrationneeded to track a second sample when it is needed.

Example: Single 80 5/6Double 50 2/5 50 6/7

In this example the lot may be passed or rejected by inspecting only 50 piecesunder double sampling. Single sampling would require counting 80 pieces.


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AQLs or Acceptable Quality Levels

Purpose To describe the acceptable quality levels employed.

Description This is defined as the acceptable % defective or amount of defects per lot. AQLsare available from 0.065% to 15%. Kahn Lucas, Inc. uses.

2.5% AQL for inprocess sampling

2.5% AQL for finished garments

0.4% AQL for count and accuracy


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Accept/Reject Criteria

Purpose To describe the accept/reject criteria employed.

Description The last consideration of the MIL STD sampling is how to use the accept andreject criteria on all single, double, and multiple sampling plans.

The accept criteria is the quantity of defects allowed within the sample size. If theaccept criteria is exceeded, the shipment is not accepted. If the defects do notexceed the acceptance criteria, the shipment is accepted.

The reject criteria is the quantity of defects not allowed within the sample size. If

the quantity of defects meet or exceed the reject criteria, the shipment is notaccepted

If the number of defects falls between the accept and reject criteria during initialsampling, a second sampling is pulled, and the defects from the initial samplingare added to the defects from the second sampling, and the accept/reject criteria isfollowed on the second sample. The above applies to Normal and Tightenedsampling.

There is an exception to the above. Under Reduced inspection, a shipment may beaccepted without meeting the acceptance or rejection criteria. Under Reducedinspection there exists an in-between after the completion of a single sample orafter completion of the second sampling during double sampling. If the defectsfall in-between, the lot is accepted, but the auditor must switch to Normalinspection on the next lot and follow the switching logic.


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Hanging Count and Accuracy Audit Procedure

Purpose To describe the hanging count and accuracy audit procedure employed.

Description

1. Certified Auditor will receive weekly shipping schedule.

2. S.O. or size must be 100% complete (labeled, sealed, and ready forloading).

3. Count one complete size, closest to but greater than sample size based onsize of lot as shown in step #4. If necessary, count 2 or more complete

sizes to reach correct sample size. Use pass/fail criteria based on MILSTD 105E Single Sampling Plan with .4 AQL as shown in step #4. Ifsample fails for count, entire shipment must be recounted.

4. Randomly select appropriate sample using MIL STD 105E Level II,Single Sampling, 0.4% AQL Normal Inspection.

Lot Size Sample Size Accept/Reject0-500 32 0/1501-3200 125 1/23201-10,000 200 2/3

10,001-35,000 315

5. Verify garment labels against shipping documentation for all samples.

6. Verify each garment for the following:

Correct Style

Correct Customer Packaging (use style package for reference)

Correct UPC Tickets

Correct Ticketing and Labeling



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Hanging Count and Accuracy Audit Procedure, Continued

7. Record errors. Errors are calculated accordingly:

Each missing expected unit = 1 error (Example: Expected 50 small,received 49 small = 1 error Expected 50 small, received 48 small = 2errors)

Each more than expected unit = 1 error (Example: Expected 50 small,received 51 small = 1 error Expected 50 small, received 52 small = 2errors)

Each more than expected unit and each missing unit in the same cartonare to be combined. (Example: Expected 50 small, received 49 smalland 1 large = 2 errors Expected 50 small, received 50 large = 100errors 100 errors = -50 small and +50 large

Each incorrectly packaged garment = 1 error

Each incorrect UPC ticket = 1 error

Each incorrect style = 1 error

Each discrepancy between shipping documentation and hanginggarments = 1 error



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2.5% AQL NORMAL LEVEL II DOUBLE SAMPLING

PLAN USING MIL STD105E

LOT SIZE SAMPLE SAMPLE

SIZE

CUMULATIVE

SAMPLES

ACCEPT/

REJECT

2 to 50USE CORRESPONDING SINGLE SAMPLING PLAN

FIRST 5 5 0/1

51 TO 150 FIRST 13 13 0/2

SECOND 13 26 1/2

151 TO 280 FIRST 20 20 0/3SECOND 20 40 3/4

281 TO 500 FIRST 32 32 1/4

SECOND 32 64 4/5

501 TO 1200 FIRST 50 50 2/5

SECOND 50 100 6/7

1201 TO 3200 FIRST 80 80 3/7

SECOND 80 160 8/9

3201 TO 10,000 FIRST 125 125 5/9

SECOND 125 250 12/13

10,001 TO 35,000 FIRST 200 200 7/11

SECOND 200 400 18/19



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2.5% AQL TIGHTENED LEVEL II DOUBLE SAMPLING

PLAN USING MILSTD 105E

LOT SIZE SAMPLE SAMPLE

SIZE

CUMULATIVE

SAMPLES

ACCEPT/

REJECT

2 TO 50 USE CORRESPONDING SINGLE SAMPLING PLANFIRST 8 8 0/1

51 TO 280 FIRST 20 20 0/2

SECOND 20 40 1/2

281 TO 500 FIRST 32 32 0/3SECOND 32 64 3/4

501 TO 1200 FIRST 50 50 1/4

SECOND 50 100 4/5

1201 TO 3200 FIRST 80 80 2/5

SECOND 80 160 6/7

3201 TO 10,000 FIRST 125 125 3/7

SECOND 125 250 11/12

10,001 TO 35,001 FIRST 200 200 6/10

SECOND 200 400 15/16


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Definitions

Introduction This section describes the definitions employed.

Definitions Over the years, many quality terms and phrases have been used without clear andcomprehensive definitions. The definitions listed below are recognized industrywide and should be used when discussing auditing, certification, and qualityissues.

Audit: A planned, independent, and documented assessment to determinewhether agreed-upon requirements are met.

Auditor: The individual who carries out the audit.

Certification: The procedure and action of determining, verifying, and attestingin writing to the qualification of personnel, processes, andprocedures in accordance with applicable requirements.

Compliance: An affirmative indication or judgment that the supplier of aproduct or service has met the requirements of the relevantspecifications contract or regulation; also the state of meeting therequirements.

Corrective Action taken to eliminate the root cause(s) and symptom(s) of anAction: existing, undesirable deviation or non-conformity to prevent

recurrence. (Preventive Action)

Findings: Conclusions of importance based on observations.

Inspection: Measuring, examining, and/or testing that gauges one or morecharacteristics of a product or service and the comparison of thesewith specified requirements to determine conformity.

Procedure: A document that specifies the way to perform an activity.

Process An analysis of elements of a process or appraisal of completeness,Quality correctness of conditions, and probable effectiveness.Audit:



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Definitions, Continued

Definitions Product A quantitative assessment of conformance to required productQuality characteristics.Audit:

Quality All those planned and systematic actions necessary to provideAssurance adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given

quality requirements.

Quality A document stating the quality policy, quality system, and qualityManual: practices of an organization.

Root Cause: A fundamental deficiency that results in non-conformance andmust be corrected to prevent recurrence.

Specification: The document that prescribes the requirements with which theproduct or service must conform.

Standard: The documented result of a particular standardization effortapproved by a recognized authority.

Acceptable The maximum percentage of non-conforming units in a lot or batchQuality that, for the purpose of acceptance sampling, can be consideredLevel (AQL): satisfactory as a process average.

Acceptance The maximum number of defective units or defects in a sampleNumber that will permit acceptance of the inspection lot.

Attribute: A characteristic or property that is appraised in terms of whether itdoes or does not exist, with respect to a given treatment.

Defect: A departure of a quality characteristic from its intended level thatoccurs with a severity sufficient to cause an associate product orservice not to satisfy intended normal requirements.

Lot: A definite quantity of a product or material accumulated underconditions that are considered to be uniform for samplingpurposes.



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Definitions RejectionNumber:

The minimum number of variants or variant units in the samplethat will cause the lot or batch to be designated as not acceptable.

Sample: A group of units or observations taken from a larger collection ofunits or observations that serves to provide an information basis formaking a decision concerning the larger quantity.

SamplingPlan:

A statement of the sample size or sizes to be used and theassociated acceptance and rejection criteria.



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Exercise: Review the following Definitions.

1. Audit:

2. Auditor:

3. Certification:

4. Compliance:

5. Contractor:

6. Corrective Action:7. Findings:

8. Inspection:

9. Procedure:

10. Process Quality Audit:

11. Product Quality Audit:

12. Quality Assurance:

13. Quality Manual:

14. Root Cause:

15. Specification:

16. Standard:

17. Acceptable Quality Level (AQL):

18. Acceptable Number:

19. Attribute:

20. Defect:

21. Lot:

22. Rejection Number:

23. Sample:

24. Sampling Plan:


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Manufacturing Process

Introduction This section describes the manufacturing process prescribed at Kahn Lucas, Inc.


No. Topic Page

1 Cutting Audit Procedures 9-76

2 Pre-Production and In-Process Initiatives 9-81

2a Sealed Sample 9-81

2b Pre-Production meetings 9-81

2c Pilot Lot Approval 9-81

2d First In-Line Inspection 9-822e Second In-Line Inspection 9-82

2f Factory Q.A. Center Inspection 9-82

3 In-Process Audit/Process Improvement/SPC 9-83

4 Repair Tracking 9-91

5 Final Audit Q.A. Center 9-92


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Cutting Audit Procedures

Introduction This section describes the cutting audit procedures employed.

Description The cutting audit is one of the first locations where prevention can be instilled bythe producing factory.

1. Quality problems detected at this point can either be corrected by re-cutting, adjustments in sewing, cutting alterations, or notifying thecustomer for approval or rejection prior to producing the garments.

2. Problems prevented at this stage are much more cost efficient.

3. The cutting audit provides feedback so prevention may be addressed as thePurchase Order (PO) #s are being spread, cut, or bundled. The feedbackis expressed in % defective and defect type.

4. The audit ensures the producing facility that the cut parts are first qualityand will not create production problems resulting from improper cutting.Once a PO is accepted into production, the end quality results are theproducing facilities responsibility unless prior arrangements are made.

The following is used for reference if necessary:

In order to perform a cutting audit, a lot must be defined and a statistical samplepulled. This is based on the quantity of bundles in the order.



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Cutting Audit Procedures, Continued

Each cutting audit must show:1. Facility

Week ending

Auditor name

Date

PO #

Style #

Total bundles in the PO

Total bundles audited

Defects found by bundle

Cutting room facility Cutter or auditor numbers from PO

Acceptance or Rejection

Notification status

Special comments or defect description

Totals for the week

Inbound defect % by cutting room

The cutting report is to be distributed to the sewing floor and facility managementif any PO # is found to contain potential problems.

The following auditing process is suggested:

1. Fill in the Bundle/Cut Audit form with Facility, Week Ending, AuditorName, Date, PO # and Style #



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2. Define the lot size. The lot size is the total number of bundles in the marker.This is calculated by taking the number of bundles (parts) per garment.

For example:Fronts 2Backs 2Yokes or Risers 2Back Pockets 2Watch Pockets 1Band 1Right Fly 1

Left Fly 1Belt Loops 1

Bundles (parts) per garment =13

The Bundles (parts) per garment is then multiplied by the total sizes in themarker. Some sizes maybe found multiple times in the marker. If thisoccurs, the sizes are counted as many times as they are placed in the marker.

For example:

This marker contains the following distribution. 4, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 14 and

16. This is 9 sizes. Multiply 9 X 13 for a Total Bundles of 117.

This information is now recorded into the Total Bundles column.

3. Define the sample sizing using an ANSI Z1.4 single sampling for normalinspection 2.5% AQL.

Lot Size Sa m ple Accept/(Total Bundles) RejectUp thru 50 5 0 / 151 thru 150 20 1 / 2

151 thru 280 32 2 / 3281 thru 500 50 3 / 4501 thru 1200 80 5 / 61201 thru 3200 125 7 / 8



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4. Pull Sample. Bundles are to be pulled at random from the PO with at leastone bundle from each size and part.

5. Each bundle is to be 100% inspected for the following:

Secure and correct bundle tickets. Check for correct PO, size,grouping and part. Ties must be secure with no excessive wrinkling orfraying of cut edges.

Splices and paper color.No splices are to be left in the bundle.White paper is to be used for splicing, green paper for shadeseparations, and pink paper for bundle separation.

Pattern fit and jagged edges. Three plies per bundle are to bechecked against the nested plot (not the marker). Plies are to be pu

Certified Auditor Training KL

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