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CURRENT EVENTSHonduras is a beautiful country with manynatural riches; it also struggles with some ofthe biggest social inequalities in the westernhemisphere (the country recently slipped to117th in the world development rankings).

The man currently charged with moving

the country forward is Jos Manuel Zelaya,the cowboy-hat-wearing Olancho nativewho came into the Honduran presidency inJanuary 2006. His honeymoon period quicklyground to a halt with accusations of cronyismand incompetence. Zelaya, a member of theLiberal Party, also stands accused of takingtoo many trips abroad and not concentratingenough on problems at home.

Those problems include endemic corrup-tion and a high level of violent crime thathas marred Honduras for decades. Prisonsare more crowded in Honduras than in anyother Central American country, and gangs

remain a major problem that no policy seemsto cure.Meanwhile, foreign investors have also had

a few jitters lately. The current administrationopened the countrys petroleum industry toa bidding process, angering US diplomats,while police raids on private telecommuni-cations companies in La Ceiba at the begin-ning of 2007 did very little to inspire overseasconfidence.

HISTORYPre-Columbian HistoryMore than 3000 years ago, pre-Columbian

settlers made their homes and farms in thefertile Copn, Sula and Comayagua valleys although humans are thought to have roamedthese lands from about 10,000 BC. Recovered

pottery fragments suggest separate settlementsand groups traded with each other.

At around the same time as the EuropeanDark Ages, Copn Ruinas, the southeasterlyoutpost of the great Maya city-states, wasbasking in a golden era. Sculptors carved stonestelae unequalled in the Maya world and mili-

tary men plotted successful campaigns, whilemathematicians and astronomers calculateduncannily accurate calendars and planetarymovements. For hundreds of years, a goodslice of the Maya Classic Period (AD 250900), the city dominated the region culturally,until its decline in the 9th century AD.

While the Maya came from the north,migrants from rain forest regions of SouthAmerica, especially present-day Colombia, arealso thought to have settled in the area. Theyare probably ancestors of indigenous peoplessuch as the Pech, Tawahka and Lenca who arestill present in Honduras today.

Spanish ColonizationColumbus, on his fourth and final voyage,landed on the tropical shores near present-day Trujillo, Honduras. The day was August14, 1502, and he named the place Honduras(depths in Spanish) for the deep waters offthe north coast.

The town of Trujillo, founded in 1525 nearwhere Columbus landed, was the first capitalof the Spanish colony of Honduras, but thegleam of silver from the interior soon caughtthe conquistadors eye. In 1537 Comayagua,in the center of Honduras, replaced Trujillo

as the capital. It remained the political andreligious center of Honduras until the capitalwas transferred to Tegucigalpa in 1880, whereit remains today.

HondurasHIGHLIGHTS Bay IslandsPlunge into a magnificent underwater world, with marine life from seahorses

to whale sharks (p406)

Copn RuinasMarvel at remarkable stone carvings and a fine museum, which bring to lifean extraordinary Maya civilization (p367)

GraciasFormer capital of Central America, now a sleepy colonial town below stunningcloud forests (p378)

Lago de Yojoa Binoculars at the ready: birdlife flourishes in this accessible beauty spot nearthe Pulhapanzak waterfalls (p359).

Best journeySteel yourself for a bone-rattling ride along La Ruta Lenca, a series of little-visited highland communities with a proud indigenous heart (p357)

Off the beaten track Discover one of Central Americas last untamed wildernesses, theReserva de la Bisfera del Ro Pltano (p430)

FAST FACTS

Area112,090 sq km (about the size ofEngland)

ATMsMost accept debits cards using Plussystems; Unibanc machines accept all cards

Budget US$25 per day, more on the BayIslands

Capital Tegucigalpa

Costs Budget hotel room US$6-10, mealUS$2-7, open-water diving course on Utila

or Roatn US$250

Country Code%504

Electricity110V AC, 60 Hz (same as the USA)

Famous forDiving, Copn Ruinas

Head of StatePresident Jos Manuel Zelaya

Languages Spanish on the mainland;Spanish and English on Bay Islands

Money US$1 = L18.80 (lempiras); US dollarsaccepted on Bay Islands

Phrases: Baleadas (large flour tortillas)

Population7.3 million

Time GMT plus 8 hours

Travelers Checks Accepted in largertowns; you must show passport and receipt

VisasResidents of the USA, the EU,Australia, Canada, Japan and New Zealand

receive a 90-day tourist card on entry

TRAVEL HINTS

Antimalarial medication is highly recommended if traveling on the north coast or Bay Islands.

Chloroquine sold as Aralen in most pharmacies is the drug of choice. See p747 for dosage.

OVERLAND ROUTES

Border crossings include Corintos and El Florido (Guatemala), El Amatillo and El Poy (El Salvador),and Guasaule (Nicaragua). There are twice-weekly ferries to Belize, and occasional hitchhiker

possibilities to Nicaragua and Jamaica.

Ever since Columbus cast his eyes starboard and spotted the lush tropical shores near Trujillo,travelers have been awed by Honduras natural charms. Visitors now fall under the countrysspell in a dizzying number of ways. Many travel the well-worn path from Copn Ruinas to theBay Islands and no wonder. The Maya crafted stone sculptures, built awe-inspiring temples,created myths, understood space and time and few places tell their story better than CopnRuinas. A bus-hop and a ferry-skip away lies another glorious kingdom, the brilliant underwaterworld of the Bay Islands. White-sand beaches, a laid-back Caribbean vibe and pulsing nightlifeare other fine reasons to go.

Away from these tried-and-tested destinations, there is a different Honduras. The roads getbumpier but the rewards are rich and the warm catracho(Honduran) welcome becomes moreextravagant the further away you wander. This is a country where you can glide down junglerivers and surprise tapirs drinking on the banks, trek in cloud forests and glimpse quetzalsin the canopy, and wander the forgotten colonial capitals of Gracias and Comayagua. And heres the real winner travelers often skip through Honduras, so chances are youll have alot to yourself.

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As elsewhere in the Americas, indgenas(indigenous people) put up fierce resistance tothe invasion, although this was weakened bytheir vulnerability to European germs. Hun-dreds of thousands of native Hondurans fell

victim to diseases introduced by the Euro-pean intruders. But still they fought on, mostfamously under the leadership of Lempira, achief of the Lenca tribe. In 1537 he led 30,000indgenasagainst the Spanish, nearly drivingthe foreigners out. He was later assassinated,possibly at a peace talk arranged with theSpanish, and by 1539 the indgenaresistancewas largely crushed. Today, Lempira is seenas a hero the national currency bears hisname as does the state where he made hislast stand.

Following the successful conquest, silvermining became a mainstay for the colony,although price crashes and excavation prob-lems periodically devastated the Honduraneconomy. Cattle and tobacco enterprises werealso important.

British InfluenceBy the beginning of the 17th century, Spanishcolonists were coming under regular attackfrom rival imperial forces especially theBritish. Merchants from Britain, attracted bythe mahogany and hardwoods of the Hondu-ran Caribbean coast, established settlementsthere and on the Bay Islands. They broughtslaves from Jamaica and other West Indianislands to work the timber industry. Life onthe north coast was made very difficult for theSpaniards especially as the Miskito beganaiming potshots at them with muskets sup-

plied by the British.In 1786 Britain eventually ceded control ofthe Caribbean coast to the Spanish, but con-tinued to influence the region. In fact, Brit-ish actions inadvertently gave rise to a wholenew culture. In early 1797, slaves rebelled onthe Caribbean island of St Vincent. The Brit-ish shipped thousands of the survivors anddumped them at Port Royal on the islandof Roatn. The group survived, mixed withindigenous people, and eventually crossedover to the mainland and fanned out in smallfishing settlements along the coast. Theseare the Garfuna communities found today

throughout northern Honduras, stretchinginto Guatemala and Belize.Even in the mid-1860s, British moneybro-

kers were wielding power. This time it was

for railroad loans. Few were built, and mostof the money ended up lining the pockets ofinterested parties in the UK and in Honduras,leaving the Central American nations govern-ment precariously in debt.

IndependenceAfter gaining its independence from Spain in1821, Honduras was briefly part of independ-

ent Mexico and then a member of the CentralAmerican Federation. The Honduran liberalhero General Francisco Morazn was electedpresident in 1830. The union was short-lived,however, as liberals and conservatives keptbickering among themselves. Honduras de-clared itself a separate independent nationon November 5, 1838.

Liberal and conservative factions continuedto wrestle for power in Honduras. Power alter-nated between them, and Honduras was ruledby a succession of civilian governments andmilitary regimes. (The countrys constitutionwould be rewritten 17 times between 1821

and 1982.) Government has officially beenby popular election, but Honduras has expe-rienced literally hundreds of coups, rebellions,power seizures, electoral irregularities andother manipulations of power since achievingindependence. One of the few things to unifythe Central American nations and the politicalparties was the threat of William Walker, anAmerican, who waged a military campaign toconquer Central America in the 1850s. In fact,he did gain control of Nicaragua for a time.He made his final ill-fated attack on CentralAmerica at Trujillo. His campaign ended indefeat, and he was captured and executed by

firing squad.

The Banana RepublicRight from the start, Honduras has been sub-

ject to foreign meddling to control businessinterests, particularly involving the bananaindustry hence the phrase banana repub-lic. Around the end of the 19th century, UStraders marveled at the rapid growth of ba-nanas on the fertile north coast just a short sailfrom southern USA. With the developmentof refrigeration the banana industry boomed.US entrepreneurs bought land for growingbananas utilzing generous incentives by a suc-

cession of Honduran governments. The threemajor companies were the Vaccaro brothers(later to become Standard Fruit), which op-erated around La Ceiba; the Cuyamel Fruit

Company near the Ro Cuyamel and Tela; andafter 1912, United Fruit, to the east, which by1929 had swallowed up Cuyamel. The threecompanies owned a large part of northernHonduras, and by 1918, 75% of all Honduranbanana lands were held by US companies.

Bananas provided 11% of Honduras ex-ports in 1892, 42% in 1903 and 66% in 1913.The success of the industry made the banana

companies extremely powerful within Hon-duras, with policy and politicians controlledby their interests. Cuyamel Fruit Company al-lied itself with the Liberal Party, United Fruitwith the National Party, and the rivalries be-tween banana companies shaped Honduranpolitics.

20th-Century PoliticsThe USA increasingly came to influenceHonduran affairs. In 1911 and 1912, when itappeared that banana interests were threat-ened by Honduran political developments,US president William Howard Taft sent the

US Marines into Honduras to protect USinvestments.During the worldwide economic depres-

sion of the 1930s, in the midst of civil unrest,General Tiburcio Caras Andino was electedpresident, establishing a virtual dictatorshipthat lasted from 1932 until 1949, when USpressure forced him to cede power.

A two-month strike in 1954 which be-came known as the Banana Strike in whichas many as 25,000 banana workers and sym-pathizers participated remains a seminalmoment in Honduran labor history. Unionswere recognized, and workers gained rights

that were unheard of in neighboring CentralAmerican countries.A military coup in 1956 marked an im-

portant shift in Honduran politics. Althoughcivilian rule returned in 1957, a new consti-tution put the military officially out of thecontrol of civilian government. The militarynow had a much more important role in thecountrys politics, the legacy of which contin-ues to this day.

In 1963 Colonel Osvaldo Lpez Arrellanoled another military coup and ruled as presi-dent until 1975, apart from a brief return todemocracy in 19712. He was forced to resign

because of a scandal involving a US$1.25 mil-lion bribe from a US company, United Brands.He was replaced in a military coup by Colo-nel Juan Alberto Melgar Castro, who slowed

agrarian reform. He in turn was ousted by yetanother military coup in 1978. This was led byGeneral Policarpo Paz Garca, who eventuallyinstigated democratic presidential elections in1981. Military rule was finally over.

The 1980sDuring the 1980s Honduras was surroundedby revolutions and conflict. In July 1979 the

revolutionary Sandinista movement in Nica-ragua overthrew the Somoza dictatorship,and Somozas national guardsmen fled intoHonduras. Civil war broke out in El Salva-dor in 1980 and internal conflict worsenedin Guatemala.

Although Honduras experienced some un-rest, its politics were far more conservative. Anoverpowering US influence directed the courseof Honduran politics and created a strongHonduran military. Honduran governmentland and labor reforms between 1962 and 1980also helped blunt populist uprisings.

With revolutions erupting on every side,

and especially with the success of the Nicara-guan revolution in 1979, Honduras becamethe focus of US policy and strategic operationsin the region. After the USA pressured thegovernment to hold elections, a civilian, DrRoberto Suazo Crdova, was elected presi-dent. Real power arguably rested with thecommander-in-chief of the armed forces,General Gustavo lvarez, who supported anincreasing US military presence in CentralAmerica. US military involvement in CentralAmerica had increased dramatically followingRonald Reagans election as US president.The USA funneled huge sums of money and

thousands of US troops into Honduras asit conducted provocative maneuvers clearlydesigned to threaten Nicaragua. Refugeecamps of Nicaraguans in Honduras wereused as bases for a US-sponsored covert waragainst the Nicaraguan Sandinista govern-ment, known as the Contra war. At the sametime the USA was training the Salvadoranmilitary at Salvadoran refugee camps insideHonduras.

General Gustavo lvarez was also respon-sible for the formation of the notorious Bat-talion 3-16, which targeted and disappearedhundreds of political enemies. Although the

repression was small-scale when comparedwith El Salvador and Guatemala, public alarmgrew. Local opposition to the US militari-zation of Honduras also increased, creating

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problems for the Honduran government. InMarch 1984 General lvarez was exiled by fel-low officers, and General Walter Lpez Reyeswas appointed his successor. The Hondurangovernment promptly announced it would re-examine US military presence in the countryand in August suspended US training of theSalvadoran military within its borders.

The 1985 presidential election, beset by

serious irregularities, was won by the Lib-eral Party candidate Jos Simen Azcona delHoyo, who had obtained only 27% of the

votes. Rafael Leonardo Callejas Romero ofthe National Party, who had obtained 42% ofthe votes, lost.

In Washington, the Reagan administrationwas rocked by revelations it had illegally usedmoney from arms sales to Iran to supportanti-Sandinista Contras in Honduras. Largedemonstrations followed in Tegucigalpa, andin November 1988 the Honduran governmentrefused to sign a new military agreement withthe USA. President Azcona Hoyo said the

Contras would have to leave. With the electionof Violeta Chamorro as president of Nicara-gua in 1990, the Contra war ended and theContras were finally out of Honduras.

Modern CurrentsElections in 1989 ushered in Rafael LeonardoCallejas Romero of the National Party (theloser of the 1985 election) as president; he won51% of the votes and assumed office in Janu-ary 1990. Early that year the new administra-tion instituted a severe economic austerityprogram, which provoked widespread alarmand protest.

Callejas had promised to keep the lempirastable. Instead, during his four years in of-fice, the lempiras value went from about twolempiras to the US dollar to eight. Prices inlempiras rose dramatically but salaries laggedbehind. The average Honduran grew poorerand poorer, a trend that continues today.

In the elections of November 1993, Callejaswas convincingly beaten by Carlos RobertoReina Idiaquez of the center-right Liberal Party.Reina campaigned on a platform of moral re-form, promising to attack government corrup-tion and reform state institutions, including the

judicial system and the military.

When Reina became president in January1994, he assumed control of an economicallysuffering country and the lempira continuedto devalue. By 1996 it had slid past 12 lempiras

to the US dollar and was heading for 13 (adollar was worth around 19 lempiras at thetime of research.)

On January 27, 1998, the Liberal PartysCarlos Roberto Flores Facusse took office asHonduras fifth successive democraticallyelected president. He instigated a program ofreform and modernization of the economy.These seemed to be moving in the right direc-

tion, but were tragically compromised by thedevastating Hurricane Mitch in November1998. The storms caused damage estimatedat US$3 billion. According to some analysts,it set the countrys economic developmentback by decades.

Much of the infrastructure was rapidlyrebuilt after massive loans flooded into thecountry, but the tourism crash following Sep-tember 11, 2001 did little to help.

In 2001, Ricardo Maduro from the Na-tional Party was elected president, largelyon the back of his promises to reduce crime.Maduro was no doubt committed to the cause

his son was kidnapped and murdered in1997. Despite pouring huge resources into theproblem, crime continued largely unabated.In January 2006 Jos Manuel Zelaya becamepresident (see p329).THE CULTUREThe National PsycheGeneralizations dont and shouldnt comeeasily for a country with such wide-rangingcultures. The Ladino businessman will havea different outlook to the Garfuna fisher-man, who may not have much in commonwith a Lencan subsistence farmer. However,

Hondurans are less likely to reach a collectiveflashpoint than their neighbors, at least histori-cally. While Guatemala, El Salvador and Nica-ragua all fought fierce civil wars in the 1980s,Honduras remained relatively conflict-free; USintervention certainly played a role, but so,perhaps, did the go-with-the-flow nature of thepeople. Most visitors find Hondurans intenselyproud of their country and will be taken abackby their friendliness and hospitality althoughsome feel that masks a reserve that makes manyHondurans difficult to get to know.

Lifestyle

Lifestyles in Honduras vary as widely as thecountrys shockingly unequal social spectrum.The fortunate economic elite often lead anAmericanized lifestyle, driving SUVs and

shopping at the latest air-conditioned malls.Far more commonly, Hondurans are forcedto scratch a living. Poverty is perhaps at itsmost shocking in urban areas, where poorconditions are accompanied by the constantthreat of violence.

In rural and coastal areas, the pressuresare different but still intense. Many are beingforced to give up their traditional lifestyles, and

move to the city or look for seasonal work on coffee plantations for example. Lack ofopportunities at home have also forced manyHondurans to seek jobs in the USA. An es-timated one million Hondurans are livingand working in that country, at least half ofthem illegally.

Hondurans are hugely family-oriented, asis common in Central America. They oftenhave a wider family network than many Euro-peans or North Americans are used to aunts,uncles, grandparents, cousins and even moredistant relatives often play a significant rolein family life.

Another attitude in Honduran society ismachismo. Women are often still treated assecond-class citizens. Wages are much lower(women can expect to earn a third of the aver-age male wage, according to a UN Develop-ment Program report) and reported levels ofdomestic abuse are disturbing. Stories of menwho do a runner when their partner becomespregnant are commonplace. There is someevidence of change. A powerful governmentcampaign against domestic violence was run-

ning at the time of research, and organizedwomens groups and cooperatives are on theincrease but there is a way to go.

The same macho tendencies mean that gayculture is very much in the closet.

PeopleHonduras is experiencing the most rapidurbanization in Central America: the urban

population was 44% in 1990, but the percent-age of the population in cities is expected tohit 59% in 2010. Up to 90% of Hondurans aremestizo, a mixture of Spanish and indgena.

The Tolupanes (also called Jicaque or Xi-caque) live in small villages dotting the depart-ments of Yoro and Francisco Morazn. Theyare thought to be one of the oldest indigenouscommunities in Honduras.

The Maya-Chort people live near theGuatemalan border, in the department ofCopn, while the Lenca live in southwesternHonduras. They are notable for their colorfultraditional clothing and headscarves.

Arguably the most ethnically diverse regionof Honduras is La Moskitia. It is home to theMiskito people and the Pech (who are gen-erally less outgoing than the Miskitos). ThePech also live along the highway from SanEsteban to Tocao. In the interior of La Moski-tia, the Tawahka inhabit the area around theRo Patuca now designated as the TawahkaAsangni Biosphere Reserve. Numbering lessthan a thousand, they still have their own lan-guage. The Garfuna live on Honduras north

THE FOOTBALL WAR

Legendary football manager Bill Shankly once said: Some people believe football is a matterof life and deathit is much more important than that. Even Mr Shankly might have balked at

Honduras and El Salvadors sporting rivalry, which spilled off the pitch and onto the battlefield

in the 1969 Guerra de Ftbol the notorious Football (Soccer) War.

Tensions did not suddenly break out o n th e s tadium terraces. In the 1950s a nd 1960s , a flag-

ging economy forced 300,000 Salvadorans to seek better conditions in Honduras. However, the

Honduran economy was itself ailing, and Salvadorans began to be targeted as scapegoats. In

June 1969, Honduran authorities started throwing Salvadoran immigrants out of the country. A

stream of Salvadoran refugees followed, alleging Honduran brutality.

In the same month, the two countries were playing World Cup qualifying matches against each

other. At the San Salvador game, Salvadorans attacked Honduran fans, defiling the Honduran flag

and mocking the anthem. Over the border, angry Hondurans then turned on Salvadoran immigrants.

Tempers frayed fur ther and the El Sal vador army invaded Hon duran terr itory on J uly 14, captu ring

Nueva Ocotopeque. Honduras retaliated with air strikes. A ceasefire was called after only six days,

but around 2000 Hondurans lost their lives, while thousands of Salvadorans fled home.For the record, El Salvador reached the Mexico World Cup finals, where it lost all three of

its matches.

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coast, from La Moskitia all the way across toBelize. Other people with African ancestry descended from Caribbean immigrants whocame to work on the banana plantations liveon the north coast and Bay Islands.

ARTSAlthough not as well known for its art as Gua-temala, Honduras does have some notable

artesana.Lenca pottery, with its black-and-white designs and glossy finish, can be of highquality and there are some skilful replica Mayacarvings and glyphs in Copn Ruinas.

Honduras has a thriving visual arts scene.The primitivist movement often depict-ing scenes of mountain villages is famous.Jos Antonio Velsquez (190683) is its mostrenowned exponent.

Musically, Honduran airwaves are usuallyfilled with imported rhythms, but the coun-try does have home-grown talent, includingGuillermo Anderson, who combines folk withsalsa, puntaand rock. Karla Lara is another

singer-songwriter whose folksy strummingis winning fans.On the literary scene, Lucila Gamero de

Medina (18731964), was one of the first Cen-tral American female writers. Rafael Heli-odoro del Valle (18911959) was a respected

journalist whose ideas had a lot of clout re-gionally. Ramn Amaya-Amador (191666),was a political writer who published PrisinVerde (1945) about life on a banana plan-tation. Juan Ramn Molina (18751908) isperhaps the countrys best-loved poet whileRoberto Quesada is one of Honduras topliving authors.

Dance is another popular art form theGarfuna people of the north coast are knownfor their distinctivepuntamusic and dance.Ifyou get a chance to see a performance by theBallet Folklrico Garfuna, dont miss it.

RELIGIONHonduras is nominally a Roman Catholiccountry, but that has changed rapidly in thelast couple of decades with the rise of theevangelical movement. Just how many RomanCatholics have converted to evangelical Chris-tianity is difficult to tell figures are unreli-able. The CIA World Factbook, at the start

of 2007, claimed that 97% of Hondurans areRoman Catholic, yet Roman Catholic analy-sis concedes that at least 17% of Honduransare now Protestant. Anecdotal evidence and

polls suggest that many more Hondurans havebeen swayed to evangelical religion than CIAsources realize perhaps around a quarter ofthe population.

Unlike neighboring Guatemala, few indig-enous customs or beliefs have been integratedinto Christian worship. However, a belief inwitchcraft and superstition is common insome parts of Hondurans.

ENVIRONMENTHonduras is a country of breathtaking naturalbeauty, with a huge range of bird, mammal,reptile and plant species. However, illegal log-ging, underresourced authorities and crassdevelopment projects are putting this underthreat. While the environment has plenty ofdefenders, they face a tough struggle againstdevelopers, corruption and plain ignorance.

The LandCountries dont come that big in CentralAmerica but, on the isthmus, Honduras weighs

in as the second-largest (after Nicaragua),with an area of 112,090 sq km. It has coaston the Caribbean Sea (644km), and on thePacific along the Golfo de Fonseca (124km).Guatemala is to the west, on the southwestis El Salvador and the Golfo de Fonseca, andto the southeast lies Nicaragua. The fertilenorth is by far the most developed its bananaplantations have long been a mainstay of theeconomy. Honduras many islands include theBay Islands and Hog Islands in the Caribbeanand several in the Golfo de Fonseca.

Much of the Honduran interior is moun-tainous with peaks from 300m to 2849m high.

There are many fertile highland valleys, but,unlike in Guatemala, there are no activevolcanoes. Lowlands exist along both coastsand in several river valleys.

WildlifeThere is a dazzling array of flora and fauna inHonduras. Jaguars, tapirs, crocodiles and themighty Ceiba tree are found in tropical zones;in the cloud forests are quetzals, rare but-terflies, orchids and magnificent pine trees;while whale sharks, coral and seahorses thrivein the countrys turquoise Caribbean waters.It is the sheer variety of habitats that allows

so many different species to thrive. Hondu-ras has mangrove swamps, freshwater lakes,oceans, lagoons, cloud forests, pine forests andtropical rain forests (considerably more than

Costa Rica, which somehow manages to hogthe ecotourism limelight).

Much of the habitat is under threat fromdeforestation. Endangered species includethe scarlet macaw (the national bird), Utilaniguana, manatee, quetzal, jaguar, whale sharkand tapir. Their future depends on just howmuch protection Honduras so-called pro-tected areas can really offer.

National Parks & Protected AreasHonduras has many ecologically protectedareas, includingparques nacionales (nationalparks), refugios de vida(wildlife refuges), bio-logical reserves and biosphere reserves. Morethan one-fifth of Honduras qualifies as an ex-isting or proposed protected area, but the effectof that is debatable. All too often the govern-ment lacks the resources or the pol itical will to stop development and deforestation.

These are some of the more important pro-tected areas, including marine reserves:Lancetilla Botanical GardensIt has more than 700

plant species and 365 species of bird. See p390 .Parque Nacional CusucoA cloud forest, with a largepopulation of quetzals. See p366.

Parque Nacional Jeannette Kawas (Punta Sal)Habitats include mangrove swamps, a small tropical forest,offshore reefs, several coves and a rocky point. The parkhas a large number of migratory and coastal birds. Seep391.Parque Nacional La TigraNear Tegucigalpa, thisprotects a beautiful cloud forest set in former miningcountry. See p351.Parque Nacional Maritimo Cayos Cochinos The

Cayos Cochinos (Hog Islands) are a protected reserve andproposed national marine park. Thirteen cays, two of themlarge, with beautiful coral reefs, well-preserved forests andfishing villages make up the reserve. See p399 .Parque Nacional Montaa de CelaqueAn elevatedplateau, with four peaks more than 2800m above sea level,including Honduras highest peak. See p381.Parque Nacional Pico BonitoThe park has highbiodiversity and many waterfalls. Pico Bonito is the highestpeak here, at 2436m. See p400.Refugio de Vida Laguna de GuaimoretoHasmangrove forest and a great variety of wildlife, includingbirds, manatees and dolphins. See p405.Refugio de Vida Punta IzopoMade up of tropical

wet forest, mangrove forest and wetlands. It has manymigratory birds, a beautiful rocky point and white-sandbeaches. See p391.

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Turtle Harbour................... B1Sandy Bay/West End.......... B1Laguna de Guaimoreto....... C1Guanaja............................. C1

Islands)........................... B1Cayos Cochinos (HogBarbareta........................... C1

Reserve.......................... C2Tawahka Asangni BiosphereSanta Brbara.................... A2 Reserve.......................... C2Ro Pltano BiospherePunta Izopo........................ B1Pico Bonito......................... B2

Patuca............................... C2 Naranjos........................ A2Parque Eco-Arqueolgico LosMontaa de Comayagua... B2

Montaa de Celaque......... A2 Gardens......................... B2Lancetilla BotanicalLaguna de Caratasca........... D2La Tigra................................ B2La Muralla............................ B2Jeannette Kawas.................. B1Guisayote............................ A2Cusuco................................ A2Cuero y Salado..................... B1Cerro Azul Meambar............ B2Capiro-Calentura................. C1

HONDURAS PARKS & PROTECTED AREAS 0 100 km0 60 miles

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Refugio de Vida Silvestre Cuero y Salado The larg-est manatee reserve in Central America (although thatsno guarantee of seeing one). Monkeys and birdlife alsoabound. See p400.Ro PltanoBiosphere ReserveA World Heritage siteand the first biosphere reserve in Central America, the RoPltano is 5251 sq km of lowland tropical rain forest withremarkable natural, archaeological and cultural resources.See p430.

Sandy Bay/West EndMarine ReserveOn thenorthwestern end of Roatn in the Bay Islands, this marinereserve has some of the most colorful coral reefs around.See p417.Tawahka Asangni Biosphere ReserveA tropical rainforest on the ancestral lands of the Tawahka people, a verythreatened indigenous groups. Access is by plane to Ahuasor Wampusirpi then by boat upstream to Krausirpe andKrautara, or by a multiday rafting trip down the Ro Patucafrom Juticalpa.Turtle HarborOn the northwestern side of Utila in theBay Islands, Turtle Harbor is another marine reserve andproposed national marine park visited frequently by divers.

Environmental IssuesDeforestation is the most pressing environ-mental issue facing Honduras today. Reliablereports suggest at least half of the pine timbercoming from Honduras is illegal, and up to80% of the mahogany harvest is illicit (some-times reaching buyers in the US). Every year,around 2% of the countrys forest cover ischopped to the ground roughly four timesthe combined area of the Bay Islands.

Even Honduras most treasured nature re-serve, the Reserva de la Bisfera del Ro Pltano,is under threat. Loggers and livestock landown-ers clear the land there with little resistance; in

1996, Unesco escalated the area into the at riskcategory. Opposition to the logging is strong butfaces huge challenges, from an underresourcednational-parks agency to endemic corruption,not to mention the threat of violence from log-gers keen to protect their interests.

Ill-considered tourist developments are an-other danger. A huge luxury complex near Telais likely to put that area under strain. And a de-bate is raging about the wisdom of a proposedairport near the Copn archaeological site.

Meanwhile, overfishing (and illegal catches)in the Bay Islands are putting its magnifi-cent reef ecosystem in danger. And the 1999

discovery of billions of tons of untapped oilreserves is likely to add to the concerns ofthose defending Honduras beautiful but frag-ile natural resources.

TRANSPORTATIONGETTING THERE & AWAYAirFrequent direct flights connect Honduras withother Central American capitals and manydestinations in North America, the Carib-bean, South America and Europe. Most in-

ternational flights arrive and depart fromthe airports at San Pedro Sula and Teguci-galpa. By far the busiest and largest airportis at San Pedro Sula. There are also directflights between the USA and Roatn, com-ing from Houston, Miami, and most recentlyfrom Newark in New Jersey state during highseason.

BoatThe only regularly scheduled passenger boatservice between Honduras and another countryis the small boat that runs twice weekly fromPuerto Corts to Dangriga, Belize. Otherwise,

it might be possible to arrange passage withcargo or fishing vessels if you pay your way.On the Caribbean coast, you can try to finda boat around Puerto Corts, Tela, La Ceiba,Trujillo, Palacios or the Bay Islands. The mostcommon international destinations for theseboats are Puerto Barrios (Guatemala), Belizeand Puerto Cabezas (Nicaragua).

On the Pacific side, you might be able to geta ride on boats sailing between countries. Butthe land crossings are so close it might not beworth the effort. San Lorenzo and Coyolito arethe main Honduran port towns in the gulf.

If you arrive or depart from Honduras

by sea, be sure to clear your paperwork (entryand exit stamps, if necessary) immediatelywith the nearest immigration office.

BusTo Guatemala, the main crossings are at ElFlorido (Guatemala), Agua Caliente and Cor-into. To El Salvador, the main crossings are ElPoy and El Amatillo; there is also a crossing atSabanetas, across the highlands from Marcala.Only Honduras has an immigration post herebecause of a border dispute, although this may

change. The crossings to Nicaragua are at LasManos (Honduras), El Espino and Guasaule(Nicaragua).

Frequent buses serve all of these bordercrossings. Most buses do not cross the border.You cross on foot and pick up another bus onthe other side. The exceptions are interna-tional buses; the following provide servicesto San Salvador, Guatemala City, Antigua

(Guatemala), Managua (Nicaragua), San Jos(Costa Rica) and Panama City:El Rey Express (www.reyexpress.net)Hedman Alas (www.hedmanalas.com)King Quality (www.kingqualityca.com)Tica Bus (www.ticabus.com)

GETTING AROUNDAirDomestic air routes have proliferated in Hon-duras recently; its now easy to fly to any ofthe Bay Islands from La Ceiba, Tegucigalpaand San Pedro Sula, and to fly between thesethree major cities. (Flights to the Bay Islands

from Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula con-nect through La Ceiba.) Air routes into theMoskitia are also making that remote areamore accessible.

Airlines include the following:Aerolineas Sosa(%in San Pedro Sula 550 6545, inTegucigalpa 233 5107, in La Ceiba 443 1894, in Roatn445 1658; www.laceibaonline.net/aerososa/sosaingl.htm)Based in La Ceiba.Atlantic Airlines (%in San Pedro Sula 557 8088, inTegucigalpa 237 8597, in La Ceiba 440 2343, in Roatn 4451179; www.atlanticairlines.com.ni) Based in Tegucigalpa.SAMI(%Brus Laguna 433 8031, in La Ceiba 442 2565, inPuerto Lempira 433 6016)

TACA/Islea(%in San Pedro Sula 516 1061, in Teguci-galpa 236 8222, in La Ceiba 441 3191, in Roatn 445 1088;www.taca.com)

BoatTwo passenger ferries, the luxury catamaranGalaxy Wave and the Utila PrincessII, oper-ate between La Ceiba and the Bay Islands.The GalaxyWavegoes to Roatn (1 hours),while the smaller, less fancy Utila Princess IIgoes to Utila. There is no service between thetwo islands you have to go via La Ceiba.One (unreliable) scheduled service, the IslandTour,goes to and from Guanaja, leaving from

Trujillo.Cargo and fishing boats operate frequentlybetween the coast and the Bay Islands. Boatsleave Trujillo and La Ceiba for the Moskitia

every couple of days or so; you can also findcargo and fishing boats at the docks in PuertoCorts, La Ceiba and Tela, as well as on all theBay Islands.

In the Moskitia, almost all transportationis along the waterways. There are also water-taxis on Roatn from West End to West Bay,and from Coyolito on the Golfo de Fonsecaover to the Isla del Tigre.

BusBuses are a cheap and easy way to get aroundin Honduras. The first buses of the day oftenstart very early in the morning; the last bususually departs in the late afternoon. Busesbetween Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula rununtil later.

On major bus routes, youll often have achoice between taking a directo (direct) orordinario (ordinary), which is also knownas parando or servicio a escala. The directois much faster and almost always worth theextra money, even on short trips.

Deluxe buses offer faster service betweenTegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula, Copn Ruinas,Tela and also La Ceiba, using modern air-conditioned buses (sometimes includingmovies and soft drinks). Ejecutivo(execu-tive) or servicio de lujo(luxury service) busesare much more expensive than directobuses,often double the prices. They can be a worth-while splurge for long trips.

Microbusesor rapiditosare smaller mini-vanlike buses that cover some routes, andtend to go faster and leave more frequentlythan regular buses.

Chicken buses operate between major

towns and their satellite villages.Car & MotorcycleThe main highways are paved roads, mostlyin reasonable condition. Away from thehighways, roads tend to be unpaved. Con-ditions can vary wildly according to rainfalland the time of year, ranging from acceptableto unpassable.

Rental cars are available in Tegucigalpa, SanPedro Sula, La Ceiba and on Roatn. Pricesstart at around US$35 a day for an economycar and US$50 for a midsize one.

TaxiTaxis are everywhere in Honduran towns.They dont have meters but most towns havea fixed about-town fare, starting at US$0.60 in

DEPARTURE TAX

If you fly out of Honduras, you must pay

US$35 departure tax at the airport.

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smaller places and going up to US$1. Taxis inSan Pedro Sula and Tegucigalpa are more ex-pensive. Expect to pay US$1.50 and US$2.20respectively for a ride about town. Taxi faresincrease at night. Expect longer journeys in amajor city to cost around US$4. In the majorcities, colectivos (shared taxis) ply a numberof prescribed routes, costing around US$0.60per passenger. Always confirm the fare before

you leave. If it seems a rip-off, negotiate orwait for another.

Three-wheeled mototaxis have flooded intoHonduras in the past few years. They are usu-ally cheaper than taxis.

TEGUCIGALPApop 894,000

In many ways Tegucigalpa is a typical, sprawlingCentral American metropolis. The streets areoften snarled with fume-belching traffic, whilethe crowds are thick and the pace is frenetic.

However, the setting is spectacular the cityis nestled in a valley surrounded by a ring ofmountains, and has a certain chaotic charm.

You may even feel a bit of affection for itwhen you glimpse a 16th-century church or the

view across the precipitous city landscape, orperhaps after a fine meal at a restaurant. Expectthis feeling to last until around the time you getstuck in the next traffic jam (not long).

At an altitude of 975m, Tegucigalpa has afresher and milder climate than the countryscoasts although long-term residents reporta steady temperature rise, as in many otherareas of the world. The city is also struggling to

cope with huge migration to its bright lights you will see shantytowns clinging to the

mountainsides in the upper reaches of theurban sprawl.

The name Tegucigalpa (Teh-goos-ee-gal-pa) is a bit of a mouthful; Hondurans oftencall the city Tegus (teh-goos) for short. Thename, meaning silver hill in the original localNahuatl dialect, was given when the Spanishfounded the city as a silver and gold min-ing center in 1578, on the slopes of Picacho.

Tegucigalpa became the capital of Hondurasin 1880, when the government seat was movedfrom Comayagua, 82km to the northwest.In 1938 Comayagela, on the opposite sideof the river from Tegucigalpa, became partof the city.

ORIENTATIONThe city is divided by the Ro Choluteca. Onthe east side of the river is Tegucigalpa, includ-ing downtown and more affluent districts suchas Colonia Palmira. Plaza Morazn, often stillcalled Parque Central, with the citys cathedral,is in the heart of the city. West of this, Av Miguel

Paz Barahona is a pedestrian shopping street,extending four blocks from the plaza to CalleEl Telgrafo; this section has been renamedCalle Peatonal, and its a busy thoroughfarewith many shops, restaurants and banks.

Across the river from Tegucigalpa isComayagela, which is poorer and dirtier,with a sprawling market, long-distance busstations, budget hotels and comedores (cheapeating places). The two areas are connectedby several bridges.MapsInstituto Geogrfico Nacional (3 Av Barrio La Bolsa;

h7:30am-noon & 12:30-3:30pm Mon-Fri)sells detailedHonduran road and topographical maps.

INFORMATIONBookstoresMetromediaAv San Carlos(%221 0770; Av San Carlos;

h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun); Multiplaza Mall(%231 2410; Blvd Juan Pablo II;h8am-8pm) SellsEnglish-language books, magazines and more, includingday-old New York Times.Emergency & Medical ServicesAmbulance(%195;h24hr) Red Cross.Honduras Medical Center (%216 1201; Av JuanLindo;h24hr) One of the best hospitals in the country.Police (%199, 222 8736; 5a Av;h24hr)

ImmigrationImmigration office(%220 6827; Av La Paz btwn3a & 4a Avs;h7:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) For a fee ofUS$20.50, you can arrange a month-long extension here.Come early for same-day service.

Internet AccessHondutel(%222 1120; cnr Av Cristbal Coln & Calle ElTelgrafo; per hr US$0.80;h7:30am-9pm Mon-Sat) Has

air-con and flatscreen Dells.Multinet (Blvd Morazn; per hr US$1.10;h8am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7pm Sun) Reliable chain internetcaf.Mundo Virtual (%238 0043; Calle Salvador Mendi-eta; per hr US$0.90;h7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pmSun) Professional staff, lots of flat screens; downloads andprinting allowed.

LaundryDry Cleaning Lavandera Maya (%232 3649; per 10lbUS$4;h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat)Su-perc Jet(%237 4154; Av Mximo Jrez/JuanGutemberg, Barrio Guanacaste; per 1lb US$0.30;

h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) Laundry washed, dried andfolded. Drop it off in the morning, and it will be ready thatafternoon.

MoneyUnibanc ATMs are dotted about the city, in-cluding the airport, on the northeast cornerof Parque Central, in the Hedman Alas busterminal and in the shopping malls.Banco Atlntida(Parque Central;h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8:30-11:30am Sat) Changes travelers checks and hasa 24-hour ATM.BAC Credomatic(Blvd Morazn;h9:30am-5:30pmMon-Fri) Has an ATM.

Mundirama Travel(%232 3909; cnr Avs Repblica

de Panam & Repblica de Chile;h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Represents American Express; issuestravelers checks and holds mail for cardholders.

PostTheres a DHL office near Mailboxes, Etc.Comayagela post office(6a Av btwn 7a & 8a Calles;

h7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) In the samebuilding as the Hondutel office.Downtown post office(cnr Av Miguel Paz Barahona &Calle El Telgrafo;h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)Mailboxes, Etc(%232 3184; Blvd Morazn;h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Has Federal Express for

international deliveries and Viana for domestic.

TelephoneMost internet cafs have much cheaper ratesfor international calls than Hondutel.Hondutel(%222 1120; cnr Av Cristbal Coln & CalleEl Telgrafo;h7:30am-9pm Mon-Sat) Pricey state-runcall center.

Tourist InformationAmitigra(%238 6269; Edificio Italia, 4th fl, office No 6,Colonia Palmira;h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Manages, and hasinformation on, Parque Nacional La Tigra.Corporacin Hondurea de Desarrollo Forestal

(Cohdefor;%223 4346; Colonia El Carrizal;h8am-4pmMon-Fri) The national office; you can get informationon Honduras national parks, wildlife refuges and otherprotected areas.Instituto Hondureo de Turismo(%222 2124, ext510; www.letsgohonduras.com; 2nd fl, Edificio Europa,cnr Av Ramon Ernesto Cruz & Calle Repblica de Mxico;

h7:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) Has some information onnational parks and wildlife refuges. Not well-geared tohandle walk-in travelers.

Travel AgenciesSeveral reliable travel agencies are clusteredin front of and nearby Hotel Honduras Maya.

There are others on Calle Peatonal, nearParque Central. Be aware that some agenciescharge just for the cotizacin(pricing out anitinerary).Mundirama Travel(%232 3909; fax 232 0072;Edificio Ciicsa, Avs Repblica de Panam & Repblica deChile;h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Can help withtravel planning, and is the local American Express rep.

DANGERS & ANNOYANCESIf you believe the papers, thieves will watchyour every step as soon as you step foot inTegucigalpa. No doubt, the capital can bea dangerous place, like most developing-

world cities. However, with common sense,you should be able to enjoy the city withoutputting yourself at undue risk. During the day,downtown Tegucigalpa and Colonia Palmira

GETTING INTO TOWN FROM THE AIRPORT

Toncontn In ternational Airport i s 6.5 traffi c-snarle d kilometers south of th e center of Tegucigalpa.

To get i nto town , walk out the main doo rs and catch a Loarque bus (U S$0.20, about 30 minutes)

headed into town. The bus goes north on 4a Av; if you are planning to stay in Comayagela,get off at the appropriate cross street and walk up. If youre staying in Tegucigalpa, stay on until

the terminal at the end of the line (3a Av and 3a Calle in Comayagela), where a cab to your

hotel will cost a few dollars.

To get to the airport from Co mayagela, catch the Loarque bus ( it wil l say Ro G rande) at the

terminal or anywhere on 2a Av north of 14a Calle (where it turns to cross the river). The airport,

on your left, is hard to recognize get off in front of a big Burger King and cross the street. A

good option from the center is the colectivo (US$0.60), a van which leaves when full from their

stop on Calle Morelos, five blocks west of Parque Central.

A private taxi to the airport costs about US$8.

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Instituto Hondureo de Nacional..........................Instituto GeogrficoImmigration Office...............Hondutel..............................German Embassy.................French Embassy....................Finnish Embassy................... Maya.................................Dry Cleaning LavanderaDowntown Post Office...........Conversa Language School....Comayagela Post Office......Banco Atlntida......................BAC Credomatic.....................BAC Credomatic.....................BAC Credomatic.....................Amitigra................................American Express..............(see 21)

F4

E3F4F4E4

E1F1

F3

F3H4E3

US Embassy..........................Swedish Embassy................Su-perc Jet...........................

Spanish Embassy..................Police....................................Mundo Virtual......................Mundirama Travel................Multinet...............................Metromedia.........................Mailboxes Etc.......................Japanese Embassy................Israeli Embassy.....................(see 7) Turismo............................ F3

B C D

3

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A

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TEGUCIGALPA

Canadian Embassy (2km)To Multiplaza Mall (1.5km);

Valle de ngeles (22km)Embassy (200m); Santa Luca (14km);

Danish Embassy (200m); SwissTo Norwegian Embassy (100m);

de las NacionesTo El Picacho & Parque

Unidos (4km)

To Buses toSan Juancito

To Econo-Rent-A-Car(100m); El Patio (500m)

Center (100m)To Honduras Medical

Mercado Jacaleapa (5km);Transportes Discua Litena (5km);

Avis (2km); Netherlands Embassy (4km);To El Salvadoran Embassy (0.5km);

Danl (92km)Baslica & Iglesia de Suyapa (7km);

Buses to Danl & Nicaragua border (5km);

Colonia Palmira

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Museo para la Identidad

Hotel Guadalupe 2..............Hotel Granada No 2............

Palacio Legislativo................ Nacional...........................

Antropologa Villa Roy.....Museo Nacional de Historia yMuseo Histrico Militar.......Museo del Hombre..............

Mercado Mayoreo...............Iglesia Los Dolores................Iglesia La Merced.................Iglesia El Calvario..................Iglesia de San Francisco......(see 36)Galera Nacional de Arte.......

D3E1

B5B4B5C2

E1E3

Nuevo Hotel Boston..............Leslie's Place.........................Hotel Union.........................Hotel Plaza Real...................Hotel Palace.........................Hotel Macarthur..................Hotel Linda Vista.................Hotel Iberia...........................Hotel Hedman Alas.............. C5

F2F2

Cathedral.............................Casa Presidencial..................

F3E3

E4Aerolineas Sosa....................

American Airlines.................Atlantic Airlines....................

Pupusera El Patio................ G4

Mercado San Isidro..............

Bonilla...............................

Teatro Nacional Manuel Andino............................Estadio Nacional Tiburcio Caras

B3

E1

C4

Sabor Cubano......................Glenn's Pub.........................Bamboo...............................

Todo de Pollo......................Supermercado Ms x Menos..Rincn Mexicano..................Restaurante Mediterraneo....Restaurante Amapala...........Repostera Duncan Maya......

F4E4

H4

F1

E3B4

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La Terraza de Don Pepe........Food Stands..........................Delitortas...........................(see 53)Cocina Creativa...................Centro Comercial Jerusalem..

Caf Paradiso......................Caf la Milonga................... E4

F1F1

B4G2

D3E3C4Buses to Airport...................

La Tigra............................

G3

F2

E1

C3

E3

E3

Empresas Unidas &

Buses to Valle de Angeles &Santa Luca......................

Colectivo Taxis to Airport.....Colectivo Taxis to Mercado Jacaleapa & Danl Buses...Colectivo Taxis to UNAH & Suyapa............................Continental Airlines Offices..(see 80)Copa Airlines........................

Maribel..........................(see 85)

Molinari Rent A Car...........(see 81)Hertz....................................

F4B6

B5B5

B5

B5

B5A5

B5

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Transportes Aurora/

TACA...................................Tica Bus...............................

Discovery.........................Transportes Contraibal.........Transportes Cristina.............Transportes El Rey y Saenz...Transportes Flores................

Transportes Hedman Alas....Transportes Los Norteos....Transportes Sultana de Occidente........................

B4Buses to Suyapa...................

Bus to Jutiapa & Parque Nacional

Air France..........................(see 72)

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are usually fine to walk around althoughbeware of pickpockets around Plaza Morazn(Parque Central). Be especially alert and care-ful in and around the bus terminals and mar-kets of Comayagela. San Isidro Market is aparticular hot spot for petty theft. Take taxisat night.

As for dress code: shorts and sandalsquickly give you away as a foreign traveler.

This should go without saying, but here goesanyway: keep your cash and valuables wellhidden. Finally, seek advice from your hotelor locals before hopping on a local city bus.Some are prone to theft and taxing carriedout by gang members.

SIGHTSDowntownAt the center of the city is the fine white-washed cathedral although its faded exteriorneeds restoration and, in front of it, thePlaza Morazn, often called Parque Central. Thedomed 18th-century cathedral (built between

1765 and 1782) has an intricate baroque altarof gold and silver. Theparque,with its statueof former president Francisco Morazn onhorseback, is the hub of the city.

Three blocks east of the cathedral is theParque Valle, with the Iglesia de San Francisco, thefirst church in Tegucigalpa, founded in 1592 bythe Franciscans. The building beside it was firsta convent, then the Spanish mint; it now housesthe lackluster Museo Histrico Militar(h8am-noon& 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat), which has limitedexhibits on Honduras military history.

The excellent Galera Nacional de Arte(%2379884; admission US$1;h9am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)

displays the work of Honduras finest visualartists from the colonial era to the modern,along with some well-preserved religious arti-facts. Just alongside is the 18th-century IglesiaLa Merced. Both are housed in the AntiguoParaninfo Universitario building, two blockssouth of the cathedral and facing Parque LaMerced. In 1847 the convent of La Merced wasconverted to house Honduras first university;the national gallery was established there in1996. The well-restored building is itself awork of art. The unusual modern building onstilts next door is the Palacio Legislativo, whereCongress meets.

The nearby Casa Presidencial(Presidential Palace;cnr Paseo Marco Aurelio Soto & Calle Salvador Mendieta) is agrand building thatused to serve as a museum,but was boarded up when we passed by.

Tegucigalpas newest museum is the Museopara la Identidad Nacional (MIN;%222 2299; www.min-honduras.org in Spanish; Av Miguel Paz Barahona btwnCalles Morelos & El Tegrafo). After several delays, itsdoors were about to open to the public at thetime of research but we were unable to checkit out. It is reportedly a high-tech attemptto encapsulate the whole of Honduran his-tory, from pre-Colombian civilization to the

present. The museum is in the former Palaceof Ministries, built in 1880.The Museo del Hombre (%220 1678; Av Miguel de

Cervantes btwn Calles Salvador Corleto & Las Damas; admissionfree;h8:30am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)displays mostlycontemporary Honduran art.

The Museo Nacional de Historia y AntropologaVilla Roy (%222 3470; admission US$1.50;h8:30am-3:30pm Wed-Sat)is housed on a hill overlookingthe city, in the opulent former home of ex-president Julio Lozano. The displays chrono-logically re-create Honduras colorful past,including archaeological and pre-Hispanichistory, as well as the rise of the influential

fruit companies. A block west is Parque La Con-cordia, a sedate park with carving reproduc-tions from the Copn ruins.

Iglesia Los Dolores(1732), northwest of thecathedral, has a plaza out front and some at-tractive religious art inside. On the front ofLos Dolores are figures representing the Pas-sion of Christ his unseamed cloak, the cockthat crowed three times all crowned by themore indigenous symbol of the sun. Furtherwest is Parque Herrera, where you can pop intoa peaceful 18th-century Iglesia El Calvario, andthe striking Teatro Nacional Manuel Bonilla, dat-ing from 1912, with an interior inspired by

the Athens Theatre of Paris.

Chiminike(%291 0339; www.chiminike.com; Blvd Fuer-zas Armadas de Honduras; admission US$2.75;h9am-noon &2-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat & Sun) is Teguci-galpas popular new childrens museum. About7km south of central Tegus, its exhibits (Span-ish only), range from a display on the humanbody to an outline of Maya history. Kids shouldlike the casa de equilibrio(equilibrium house) a small tilted house designed to highlight yoursense of balance (admission US$1).

El PicachoOn this peak on the north side of Tegucigalpais the Parque de las Naciones Unidas(United Na-tions Park), established to commemorate theUNs 40th anniversary. It has excellent viewsof the city, as well as a run-down zoo(adult/child

US$0.25/0.10;h9am-4:30pm Wed-Sun). On Sundaysbuses leaving from behind Iglesia Los Doloresgo all the way to the park gates. Otherwise,take an El Hatillo bus (US$0.35, every 25 min-utes from 5am to 10pm, 20 minutes) from AvJuan Gutemberg or Parque Herrera and get offat the junction; the last return bus is at 9pm.A taxi from the center costs US$5.

COURSESConversa Language School (%231 1874; aerohond@cablecolor.hn; Paseo Repblica de Argentina 257;h8am-5pmMon-Fri, 8:30am-12:30pm Sat)offers intensive courses(120 hours US$930). Homestays can also bearranged (per month, including two mealsper day US$350).

SLEEPINGDowntown Tegucigalpa is safe during the day,although not at night. Comayagela is a dodgypart of town but closer to the bus terminals.If you stay in Comayagela, get taxis at night.Colonia Palmira is away from downtown, in a

good neighborhood. Accommodations thereare noticeably pricier.

DowntownHotel Iberia (%237 9267; Calle Los Dolores, s withshared bathroom US$5.40/8.10, d with/without bathroomUS$10.80/8.10)Easily the best cheapie down-town. Run by a nice family, it is an oasis ofcalm away from the hurly-burly of the streetoutside. Rooms are clean and the sharedbathroom is fine (although hot water onlyruns from 6am to 8am). There is an upstairscommon room with a TV also good for anafternoon card game.

Nuevo Hotel Boston (%237 9411, 238 0510; fax237 0186; Av Mximo Jrez 321; s/tw US$12.20/19.50) Avery good budget downtown hotel, if youcan get past the rules and regulations (shirtand shoes at all times, no alcohol in the com-munal rooms). There is good news for gi-ants spick-and-span rooms, all set arounda leafy courtyard, have large doorways andhigh ceilings. Another perk is the free coffeeand cookies. Rooms facing the street are large,but noisy and not worth the extra charge fora small balcony.

Hotel Granada No 2 (%237 4004; fax 237 4438;Subida Casamata 1326; s/d US$14.60/24.30;pai)Comfortable bed: check. Secure: check.Clean: check. Free purified water and cof-fee: check. Just forget about any flourishesin this concrete block of a building. Rooms

have televisions and guests have 10 minutesfree internet.

Hotel MacArthur (%237 9839; homacart@datum.hn;Av Lempira 454; s/d/tr with fan US$35/40/50, with air-conUS$45/50/60;pas) Rooms vary somewhathere: some are sparsely decorated and lackcharm; others are cozy with views over nearbyIglesia Los Dolores. All are comfortable andgood value. Rooms at the front have more

character but are noisier. There is an inex-pensive cafeteria serving breakfast and din-ner, as well as an attractive pool that nobodyseems to use.

Colonia PalmiraHotel Guadalupe 2 (%238 5009; 1a Calle; s/dUS$17.30/20.55;p) Safe and comfortable, thishas just one drawback: its Stalinist-style box-rooms let in little light and can make youfeel youre trapped in a Cold War spy movie.Many volunteers stay here for the security andthe good neighborhood.

Hotel Linda Vista (%238 2099; www.lindavistahotel

.com; Calle Las Acacias 1438; s/d US$40.60/58;i) Thisvery well-run small hotel has six rooms withmahogany furnishings, big closets and spa-cious bathrooms. The front garden is welltended and pretty, while the rear garden hasa truly lovely view of the Tegucigalpa sprawl.Continental breakfast is included.

Leslies Place (%220 5325, www.dormir.com; CalzadaSan Martin 452; s/d with fan US$69/85;pi) Smalland intimate enough to almost call itself aboutique hotel, this is not your average back-packers. But if you fancy treating yourself, youwont find much better value than this charm-ing hotel with Guillermo Yuscarn landscape

paintings on the walls, and tasteful, authenticHonduran dcor.

ComayagelaHotel Plaza Real(%237 0084; 6a Av btwn 8a & 9a Calles;s/d with shared bathroom US$10.80/12.50, r with bathroomUS$13.50) Set back from the street, this hotel isdefined by a lush green courtyard area, withpalms and a gazebo. Rooms are not bad, al-though overdue for a paint job. Hot water ison tap, as is purified water and coffee.Scuzzy

jeans beware theres a laundry station(hand-wash).

Hotel Hedman Alas (%237 9333; 4a Av btwn 8a & 9aCalles; s/d US$15/17.30) So theres almost nonaturallight, but this is a good secure option in busstationsville. Neat rooms include brass-basedlampshades and Impressionist prints. But the

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reams of fake flowers in the central comedor(dining room) are a little disturbing. Breakfast(US$2.20) is served between 7am and 9am.

Hotel Union (%237 4213; fax 206 2477; 8a Av btwn 12a& 13a Calles; d/tr US$19/20.25) Rooms here have bedsand very little space for anything else. Newin 2005, the place looks older now. But theservice is friendly and its fine if all you wantis just to crash out before a morning bus.

Hotel Palace (%237 6660; 12a Calle btwn 8a & 9a Avs;s with fan & bathroom US$22.75; d with air-con US$42;pa)A hefty grille door marks the innerentrance to the rooms here enter the FortKnox of Tegucigalpa hotels. Rooms are sur-prisingly pricey for what you get a prisoncell ambience right up to the barred windows,and curtains branded with the hotel name. Butyou do get cable TV and the beds are firm.There is also parking and a whole bunch ofconveniently close bus stations.

EATINGTegucigalpas eating options range from street

food to sophisticated candlelit restaurantsserving refined global cuisine.

DowntownLa Terraza de Don Pepe(%237 1084; Av Cristbal Coln2062; dishes US$2-4;h8am-10pm)Down-at-heelcharm abounds in this famous, good-valuecentral restaurant. Its daily specials are a stealand sometimes there is live music in the even-ings. What really makes this place uniqueis an upstairs alcove formerly known as themens restroom. In 1986 a statue of the Vir-gin of Suyapa was stolen from the Baslica deSuyapa. After a nationwide hunt, it turned up

here. Now the former gentlemens bathroomarea is a little shrine, complete with agingnewspaper clippings and photos of the event.Only in Latin America!

Restaurante Amapala (%238 4417; Av Miguel PazBarahona at Calle Salvador Corleto; dishes US$2-4;h11am-8pm) It is a bit rough-and-ready but this is agood place to stretch your lempira. Seafoodis the specialty, closely followed by chickenplatters which you get for a song. It looks ontotranquil Parque Valle. As in most Hondurasrestaurants, veg options are limited.

Cocina Creativa (%222 4735; Av Miguel Paz Bara-hona;h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Cozy andlow-key, this little place has hard-backedwooden chairs, paneled walls, an easy jazzysoundtrack and a friendly owner. Licuados(fruit milkshake drinks) and sandwiches are

great, whileplatos del da(dishes of the day)go for US$2.75.

Caf Paradiso (%237 0337; Av Miguel Paz Barahona1351; mains US$3-6;h10am-10pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat,until 9:30pm Tue & Thu)Bohemians gather here,arguably Tegus most cultured hangout, whereEuropean and Latin American dishes areserved on cute round tables draped in yellowtablecloths. The service can be a bit chaotic

on the night we were there, the waitress wasalso the chef. There are often temporary artexhibitions decorating the walls. English-language movies are shown at 7pm Tuesday;poetry readings at 7pm Thursday. It is nearEl Arbolito.

Pupusera El Patio (%235 9384; Blvd Morazn; mainsUS$4-7;h11am-1:30am)One of the most raucous,lively places in the city at the weekend, thisbeer-hall of a place heaves with people. Tablesfill with bottles, and the karaoke gets morefull-blooded as the night goes on. Dads, mumsand kids join in the fun. Tacos and typicalHonduran dishes are the main items on the

menu.Repostera Duncan Maya (%237 2672; Av CristbalColn; mains US$5-8;h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9:30pmSun) Head here if you want bustle and a buzz-ing atmosphere this cavernous downtownrestaurant and bar usually brims with peo-ple, running the sky-blue-clad waitresses offtheir feet (you may need to wait a while toget served). Dont expect a quiet evening,especially if the karaoke machine has beenfired up.

Restaurante Mediterraneo (%237 9618; CalleSalvador Mendieta; mains US$4-8;h10:30am-8pm) Notquite the bastion of sophisticated Mediterra-

nean cooking that the name would have youbelieve, this bright restaurant caters mostly tosuits and retail workers. You wont be dazzledby the cuisine the brown vinyl seats havemore luster than the carbonara but it is tastyenough and the service is friendly. Vegetarianshave some options, including Greek salad andmoussaka.

El Patio (%221 4141; Blvd Morazn; mains US$8-12;h10am-11pm Mon-Thu, 10am-1am Fri-Sun) The posh-restaurant branch of the citys two famous ElPatio venues: waitresses dash between tablesin traditional Honduran dress, while a mari-achi band serenades diners in the vast opendining space. The meals are not cheap but theportions are enormous. The well-preparedmeat is cooked on a large grill at one end ofthe dining area.

Some other options:Rincn Mexicano (%222 8368; cnr Av CristbalColn & Calle El Telgrafo; mains US$3-5;h8am-9pmMon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) Surprisingly cool and quietlittle oasis, away from the noisy street. There are afew salads and the burritos are a good value atUS$3.25.Supermercado Ms x Menos(cnr Avs La Paz & 4a;

h7:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-8:30pm Sun) Large

supermarket; good for day-trip supplies.Food stands(mains US$0.50-1.50) At the side of IglesiaLos Dolores, these stands offer a variety of temptinglunchtime street-food dishes from pupusas (cornmeal massstuffed with cheese or refried beans) and baleadas(flourtortillas) to beef and chicken grills.

Colonia PalmiraCaf la Milonga (%232 2654; Paseo Repblica de Argen-tina 1802, mains US$5.50-8;hnoon-8:30pm Mon-Thu, to9pm Fri, to 7pm Sat)Not your average stack-em-high, sell-em-cheap joint. In the well-heeledColonia Palmira district, this is so good and ex-cellent value. Unpretentious Argentine steaks

are the choice dish in this low-key but so-phisticated venue. Watch out for the events including tango evenings and music recitals(including big names such as folk legendGuillermo Anderson).

ComayagelaCentro Comercial Jerusalem(6a Av btwn 5a & 6a Calles;h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun)There are a clus-ter of cheap, clean comedores, with typicalHonduran dishes, sandwiches and snacks.Delitortas (mains US$1-2), on the 3rd floor, hasgood daily specials (burger, fries and a sodafor US$1.50).

Todo de Pollo(6a Av near 8a Calle, Comayagela; mainsUS$2-3.50;hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The namemeans everything of chicken can you guesswhats on the menu? Its located next to HotelPlaza Real.

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFEColonia Palmira hogs the best of Teguci-galpas nightlife. There are also several barsand nightclubs along Blvd Morazn. Notethat you wont be able to party til dawn in thiscity. Ricardo Alvarez, who became mayor ofTegucigalpa in 2006, controversially imposeda 2am curfew on the citys clubs and barsin a bid to clamp down on the night-time

violence.Glenns Pub (h6pm-2am Mon-Sat) During the

day you would not even know it was here,

but this small hole-in-the-wall bar has ayoung crowd spilling out onto the sidewalkon weekend nights. Cheap beers flow, as dothe tunes: a funky mix of Britpop, Bob Marleyand other classics.

Sabor Cubano (%235 9947; Paseo Repblica de Argen-tina 1933;h11am-2pm & 6-11pm Tue-Thu, 11am-2pm &6pm-2am Fri & Sat) Head here if your hips dont lie this is Tegucigalpas dance hotspot. Theres

no cover charge. Its just a pleasant, relaxedatmosphere with couples, some more elegantthan others, moving the night away to theuna-dos-tresof a salsa beat. It doubles as arestaurant.

Bamboo (%236 5391; Blvd Morazn; cover US$6-8;h9pm-2am Wed-Sat)This is Tegucigalpas mostexclusive nightclub. Partygoers are mainlyyoung twenty-somethings. Dress code: to thenines.

ENTERTAINMENTCaf Paradiso (Av Miguel Paz Barahona 1351;h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 9:30pm Tue & Thu) Shows English-

language movies every Tuesday night at7pm and has poetry readings on Thursdayat 7pm.

Teatro Nacional Manuel Bonilla (%222 4366; AvMiguel Paz Barahona)This characterful place hostsa variety of performing arts.

Cinemark(%231 2044; www.cinemarkca.com; Multiplaza Mall, Blvd Juan Pablo II; tickets US$3) A modernmultiscreen cineplex showing recent Holly-wood fare.

Estadio Nacional Tiburcio Caras Andino(9a Calle atBlvd Suyapa)Across the river from Comayagela,this stadium mainly holds soccer matches things are never dull when soccer-mad fans

take their seats on match day.SHOPPINGHonduran handicrafts are sold at many placesaround town.

Mercado Mayoreo (%8am-5pm Fri, 6am-3pm Sat)Every Friday and Saturday, this colorful cheapmarket sets up shop near the Estadio Na-cional. Theres a dazzling array of produceand stalls, hawking everything from birdcagesto vegetables. Its an experience just to wan-der around, even if you dont want to buyanything. There are some great little pupusacafs too check out Pupusera Emanuel ifyou can querico!

Mercado San Isidro(habout 7am-5pm) Locatedin Comayagela, you can find just about any-thing for sale in this sprawling market, from

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vegetables to secondhand clothing to someexcellent leatherwork and other crafts. Beaware that this is a favorite hunting groundof pickpockets.

Multiplaza Mall (Blvd Juan Pablo II;h8am-10pm)New malls frequently crop up in Tegucigalpa,but this one is probably the most conven-ient for travelers. Its southwest of ColoniaPalmira, with ATMs, bookstores, internet and

a cinema.

GETTING THERE & AWAYAirThe airport is 6.5km south of Tegucigalpa. Seep340 for information on getting into town.Note that Honduras main airport is in SanPedro Sula, not Tegucigalpa. Travelers look-ing for international flights should considerflying from there.Aerolineas Sosa(%233 5107, airport 234 0137; www.aerolineas.com; Blvd Morazn;h8am-noon & 1-4pmMon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)American Airlines (Edif Palmira;%800 220 1414 toll

free,