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Transcript of Cellar Door
Not Just Lunacy?Moon cycles and minerals - understanding the often misunderstood world of biodynamics
160 YEARS OF WINE HERITAGE | laywheeler.com | Autumn/Winter 2014
Inviting You Into A World of WineCellar Circle’s Landmark Launch
Travel EuropeThrough Germany, Italy and France, we show you Europe’s finest delights
Forage A Feast Our most comforting food and drink recipes for Autumn
Replacing the Fine Wine Plan, Cellar Circle will
remain true to its roots, providing informative
and sensitive guidance from the team here
at Lay & Wheeler. Membership comes with
benefits including: a 10% discount on all
purchases from Majestic Wine, free delivery
of your wines to any Majestic Wine store, and
a case from the Cellar Circle team on the first
anniversary of membership.
Dave Smith, Director of Lay & Wheeler, said of
the changes: “The launch of the Cellar Circle
in this, our 160th year represents a wonderful
opportunity for our business and for our
current and future customers. It offers an
affordable and inspiring opportunity to build a
dream cellar without hassle.”
If you would like more information
don’t hesitate to get in contact with
the team here on 01473 313 300, or
visit www.cellarcircle.co.uk
We were really pleased to launch Cellar Circle in September, built on Lay & Wheeler’s 160 years of links with the world’s greatest producers, and Majestic Wine’s 30 years experience inspiring people to discover and explore the exciting world of wine.
A lot has happened at Lay & Wheeler since our last edition. We have celebrated our 160th anniversary over the summer, and in mid-September we launched Cellar Circle, which has, I’m sure you’ll agree, taken the old Fine Wine Plan and made it great. As we drift towards Christmas and the New
Year, thoughts here turn towards Burgundy and
the release of the 2013s in January. We look at
what makes the region unique, and also at the
oft-misunderstood philosophy of biodynamics,
increasingly prevalent there. Inspired by our recent
offers, L&W staff also recount trips to Germany
and Tuscany, whilst we have our usual features on
seasonal food and drink.
I must admit that I have a particular soft-spot for
this time of year. True, days are short and it can be
brisk outside. But what better excuse for wrapping
up warm and braving the cold, before retreating
back indoors to rich wines and even richer food.
So settle in, have a read, and pour yourself a glass
from that long anticipated bottle. It’s what autumn
and winter are all about!
Cheers!
Robbie Toothill Cellar Door Editor
Welcome to
Having looked after members of the Bin Club
and the Fine Wine Plan, I can not wait to tell all
of our customers about the launch of Cellar Circle! Being
so customer-friendly, and with such great benefits, it will
be a joy to chat about.
Victoria Chaplin Wine Advisor, Cellar Circle
Coming from a science background, I find that
some biodynamic principles can seem like
smoke and mirrors. However the proof is in the tasting.
I taste the wines of Pontet Canet, Domaine Leflaive
or Zind-Humbrecht and cease to care how or why
biodynamics works, I just know that it does!
Al Luffingham Account Manager, Private Clients
I always look forward to travelling to Burgundy
in January in the ‘Van du Vin’ (normally a Ford
Transit), visiting producers and collecting samples
in readiness for the Burgundy tasting in London,
next year on Monday 12th January. We get back on
the 9th ensuring that the samples are as fresh as
possible for the tasting.
Nick Pitcher Operations Manager
In 2008, a few short weeks after starting work
in the wine trade, I was given a glass of 1970
Mouton-Rothschild with my work’s Christmas meal. I
clearly remember thinking ‘ah, so that’s what all the fuss
is about!
Hayley Whyatt Advisor, Fine Wine Trading Team
Introducing Cellar CircleWords from the team
| Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 201402 Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 2014 | 03
GermanyI have been to Germany twice now, my
first visit being a school trip, I will not
mention how many years ago that was! I
remember vividly that the food was not
great and most of the week I was very
hungry. I also got into trouble with the
teacher for staying up late and running
up and down the hotel corridors.
Fortunately for myself, and for my
fellow hotel guests, my second trip was
rather different – although we did stay
up late when we visited Ernie Loosen,
who treated us to an amazing dinner.
He kept nipping off to his cellar to
bring up more blind wines which we
had to take a guess at, brilliant fun and
an experience I shall not forget.
Two of our sales team, Paula and Hayley, found themselves in Germany this summer, but in very different places, under very different circumstances. Whilst Paula was seeking out the best new releases for Lay & Wheeler to offer, Hayley was miles from wine country on a family holiday. Both were searching for wine Nirvana – they let us know how they got on…
Indeed, the food I experienced on my
second visit was amazing. In hindsight,
it probably was the first time round
but my immature taste buds did not
appreciate it. But back then I would not
have had all the lovely wines to pair
up with the food.
It’s funny how your opinions of a place
can change...
Germany is the 8th largest wine
producer worldwide
8th From Paula’s tales of wine country...
Wine has been produced in Germany
since Ancient Roman times
Paula Hunter in the Mosel
Ernie Loosen providing one of his many delights
| Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 201404 Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 2014 | 05
Matching yourGerman Riesling with the right foods.
Kabinett – Try it with simple grilled
fish such as halibut or plain chicken
dishes. Strong sauces do not work
well. Or simply have it on its own as
an aperitif, and as Ernie says, “drink
yourself sober.”
Spätlese – Have with barbecued
pork or sweet and sour prawn dishes.
Generally works well with spiced
dishes, especially Asian cuisine.
Auslese – Rich cheeses, including
goats cheese, foie gras and richer
styles of food.
Beerenauslese – We are getting
into the dessert territory here, sweet
puddings of apple pie and cream,
caramel and toffee puddings, the
perfect match.
Trockenbeerenauslese – Tropical
fruit salad, more caramel and apple
pudding and, of course, blue cheese.
Eiswein – Again one for the dessert,
or I like to have my pud, then sit back
and enjoy this on its own.
Thundering along the autobahn at 100 MPH
in the relentless summer sun (there are no
speed limits on large sections of the German
motorway), I found it hard to think of little
other than a refreshing glass of white wine.
I have been visiting Westphalia since my
teens, but this was my first visit with my own
family and critically, my first since working in
the wine trade.
Our destination, Bielefeld, is unfortunately
(for me) nowhere near wine country.
Nevertheless I hoped to sample a few
wines rarely encountered at home. I had
half expected to find nothing but Riesling
on the local wine lists and was surprised
at the dominance of Spätburgunder (Pinot
Noir) and Spätburgunder rosé as the
German representatives; whilst aware of
the increased red varietal plantings (12%
of Germany’s vineyard area is devoted to
Spätburgunder), the prevalence still came as
a surprise. The presence of other varieties
in generic dry quaffing styles supported
the notion of a ‘drying German wine taste’.
However, my German friends insist that
very few Germans drink the sweeter styles
and that these were largely produced for
the export market – I needed to head back
home to satisfy my curiosity for such wines!
Although I can’t help but feel a little
disappointed to not have found anything
new and exciting, I fully intend to widen my
search on my next trip - perhaps one day I
will even get to visit a German vineyard….
To Hayley’s miles from wine country...
Germany has a total of 13 designated
wine growing regions
| Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 201406 Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 2014 | 07
Pan-Roasted Pork Tenderloins with a Lemon, Sage & Parmesan CrustAs the nights draw in, and autumn passes in the blink
of an eye, there is a lot to be said for consoling yourself
with lunches that stretch long into the evening, with great
company and good wines (or vice versa). Ludo, from our Fine
Wine Trading team, shares a seasonal favourite with us...
InstructionsPreheat your oven to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4, then
thoroughly mix the ingredients for the crust together and
spread over a plate.
Cut the tenderloin in to 4 equal pieces, season well, and dip
in the beaten egg, followed by the crust mixture.
Heat a generous glug of olive oil in an oven-safe frying pan
on a medium heat and place in the sliced tenderloins. Once
the side lying down has achieved a nice golden colour, give
the tenderloins a quarter-turn to colour the next section.
Once the tenderloins are golden apart from
one side, turn them onto that side, remove
the pan from the heat and pop it in the oven.
15 minutes should be enough to ensure
that your tenderloins remain moist.
For me, this dish is excellent in the autumn, with the lemon zest reminiscent of summer, whereas sage ushers in more comforting, wintry tones. I cannot think of anything better than having friends for dinner, going all out to show them a good time (and let’s admit it, impress them a little…)
This is a quick, relatively easy, and most importantly inexpensive dinner party option – having blown my budget on the wine!
Sloe Gin
First, find your sloes – there is no
need to wait until after the first frost,
just pop them in the freezer when
you get home for a day or two. Freezing will
puncture the skins, removing the need to
prick them – another sloe gin-making myth.
Fill your chosen vessel approximately
half full of sloes, and then poor over
the gin. Good quality gin will always
taste best in the final product. There is no
need to add sugar at this stage – you will
have much more control over sweetness if
you add it to taste at the end.
Leave for a few months, and then
add syrup to taste. The syrup is
made by heating a pan with
equal quantities of sugar and water until the
sugar has dissolved, and then leaving to chill.
12
3
Here at Lay & Wheeler, wine is certainly not our only tipple. Most of the team can be tempted with a pint or two of a local brew, whilst the changing seasons bring new treats. Autumn and winter means Sloe Gin, and Al from the Private Clients team has been convinced to share his closely guarded recipe.
Serves 4
Ingredients• A glug of olive oil
• A knob of butter
• 2 whole pork tenderloins
• 1 egg, beaten
AUTUMNAL BLISS
Remove from the oven and rest for a couple of minutes,
before slicing to serve with a squeeze of lemon (or a lemon
butter sauce with a few sages leaves thrown in, if you’re not
too worried about calories!)
This can be accompanied by many things: I found it to be
a particularly good partner for ratatouille. For a wine match,
try an aged vintage fizz, or a still chardonnay... Bon appétit!
For the crust• 1 handful of finely chopped
sage and/or thyme
• 1 handful of grated parmesan
• Grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
• 2/3 handfuls of breadcrumbs –
“Panko”are best for a light and
crispy finish.
• Salt & Pepper
09Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 2014 | | Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 201408
Lucy Fisher writes, “Tuscany...just the thought of it raises a smile and transports you to a sun-dappled olive grove. This region of Italy has long been a favourite with Britons and it is not difficult to see why”. She visited Tuscany on honeymoon last year, and shares with us some of her highlights:
FlorenceSince reading E.M.Forster’s ‘A Room with a View’ I have
wanted to go to Florence and despite the city brimming with
visitors, this doesn’t detract from the beautiful architecture
and stunning art on every corner. Be warned that you may
end up feeling ‘over-frescoed’ but it would be wrong to
visit Florence and not appreciate the wealth of art. With
just a day or two there, we saved the Uffizi for a future trip
and took the advice of a family friend and made a bee-line
for the Convento di San Marco to see Fra’ Angelico’s The
Annunication. No postcard prepares you for its beauty.
CertaldoThis Tuscan market town, not far from Florence, is made up of
two parts: the newer part of town nestled around the original,
historic centre, all of which is reached by funicular railway. This
offers outstanding views down the valley to the almost mythical
towers of San Gimignano, and nestled in the fortified walls is
a wonderful cookery school run by the force of nature that is
Giuseppina. We spent an hour shopping in town for all of our
ingredients before creating a delicious three-course meal using
fresh, local produce, which demonstrated that this combination
of quality and simplicity is the key to the best meals.
Food and drinkSurely one of the main draws of the
region. The joy of ripe tomatoes, locally
pressed olive oil, courgettes and juicy
peaches bought from a farmer’s stall
outside Bolgheri, along with wine
made close to the legendary estate of
Ornellaia. Local restaurants and bars
serving fantastic value set menus, with
the best of local produce. The delicious
selection of antipasti which accompany
a glass of wine, savoured in the shade
of plane trees in the square. Discovering
that Aperol Spritz is not just a fad in the
UK but a delightful apéritif which now
epitomises summer for me.
LandscapeIt really is full of rolling hills, cypress
trees and hilltop villages reached via
dozens of hairpin bends.
LuccaIf you’re going to put yourself through
the hassle of Pisa in order to see a
tower which leans then reward yourself
with a long lunch and amble around
its near neighbour Lucca. A beautiful
walled town personifying elegance,
highlights include a shaded park atop
the city walls and the unique
elliptical piazza.
| Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 201410 Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 2014 | 11
Dreaming of Tuscany
FRUITDAY
FRUITDAY
Understanding BiodynamicsNick Connell, Lay & Wheeler’s Sales Manager, looks at the methods employed in this ever-more-widespread, yet oft-misunderstood, winemaking philosophy:
Biodynamic Wines Many crucial decisions are made by
winemakers every day but one of the
most important in their careers will
be whether to maintain their vineyard
using chemicals, run it as certified
organic or whether to take the plunge
and adhere to biodynamic rules
and principles.
So, what is biodynamic? Essentially an extreme form of
organic farming, prohibiting the use
of synthetic fertilisers and agro-
chemicals but allowing sulphur
based sprays to be used in order
to control mildew. The quirk of
biodynamic methods is that they rely
upon producers nurturing vines with
homeopathic preparations made from:
cow manure (usually buried inside
a cow horn over the winter), quartz
and seven plant materials, including
Chamomile and Yarrow flowers. These
are named Preparations 500 – 508 and
are applied as sprays to the vines or
as compost in the soil. Certifying and
labelling wine as biodynamic involves
jumping through many regulatory
hoops and must meet the stringent
international standards of the
Demeter Association, who are the
certifying body.
Work in the vineyard, and the cellar, is
performed in accordance with the lunar
calendar – and some proponents of
biodynamics go so far as to say wine
tastes better depending on whether
it is a fruit (best), flower (neutral),
leaf (poor) or root (terrible) day. This
could be laughed at, but some buyers
for major supermarkets take it seriously
enough to only taste on fruit days.
Devised in 1924 by Rudolph Steiner,
an Austrian scientist and philosopher,
biodynamic principles have caused
much debate in the world of wine over
the past decade. Some hail that they
are “mumbo-jumbo” whilst others are
convinced that the quality of wines
produced by biodynamic producers
is infinitely superior. Certainly,
the attention to detail involved in
maintaining certification must ensure
that producers are constantly on their
toes as they are not able to rely on
chemical remedies to constantly be
tending to and checking their vines
and fruit.
Indeed, many of the world’s top
producers have adjusted to the
biodynamic way of life, including
Domaines Leflaive and Leroy in
Burgundy, Chateau Pontet-Canet in
Bordeaux, Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace
Biodynamics is essentially an extreme form of organic farming, prohibiting the use of synthetic fertilisers and agro-chemicals but allowing sulphur based sprays to be used in order to control mildew.
and Seresin in New Zealand. The
buy-in from these big names has
helped to support the cause for this
admirable form of farming but there are
obvious questions such as what if your
neighbour sprays with pesticides – can
you still be biodynamic? And, if you
have a succession of bad years, can you
opt out and then reconvert once yields
are back up?
Much of the criticism has moved
onto new targets including the
anachronistically named ‘natural
wines’, no doubt due to the undeniable
quality of some wines being produced
through biodynamic methods.
I, myself, will enjoy a superb drop of
Domaine Leflaive and raise my glass
to Rudolph, even if it isn’t quite
Christmas yet!
| Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 201412 Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 2014 | 13
un|trans|lat¦ablebur|gundy?
The idea of untranslatability is certainly alluring. It offers hope that some idea is reserved for another culture – that there is something unique, still to be discovered. But as an (aspiring) linguist, I find the idea of untranslatability challenging. Surely there must be a translation for every idea. It may take more than one single word to convey, true, but this is more a linguistic gap than some intangible untranslatability. Even when struggling through translation exams at university I was convinced that there must be a way around my difficulties!
Yet every day at work I find myself using
French words. I’d like to think that this
isn’t as a result of either laziness or
some innate pretentiousness, although
I fear that the wine industry can be all
too guilty of the latter (and possibly the
former!) But no, there certainly seem
to be some words where no translation
can capture the essence of the concept
behind the word – it can be explained,
but it can’t truly be translated.
The French word I find myself using
most is terroir. I could call it a wine’s
‘sense-of-place’; indeed I frequently
do when trying to explain its meaning.
But I can’t help feeling that such
explanations fall short; that terroir is
something more, the combination of
a huge number of factors pulling on a
wine, defining its existence.
Nowhere in the world of wine is the pull
of terroir stronger than in Burgundy.
This is a land of tiny vineyards planted
(predominantly) with Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir, interwoven into celebrated
hillsides including the Côte de Beaune,
the Côte de Nuits and Chablis.
Each vineyard has its own definable
character, often producing hugely
different wines from its neighbour,
regularly of vastly different qualities,
and frequently commanding incredibly
different prices. As I said, this isn’t
purely a wine’s ‘sense-of-place’, but
rather something stronger, something
unseen, something untranslatable.
As I think of Burgundy, I find myself
drawn to another French word:
patrimoine. In its most literal sense, the
definition that I find in the dictionary,
‘heritage’, is entirely correct. But I think
it conveys something more. ‘Heritage’
in English gives a sense of looking
backwards; patrimoine is much more
in the present, the idea of benefitting
from what the past has offered, of
keeping it in mind and not letting go.
In Burgundy, where most Domaines are
small and family owned, this is central
to their philosophy. Many of the best
producers are incredibly innovative, but
they combine their anticipation of the
future with an appreciation of the past,
and an understanding of where they fit
into their Domaine’s history.
But what of Burgundy itself? Are its
wines untranslatable? Undoubtedly
producers from around the world are
making fantastic expressions of Pinot
Noir and Chardonnay. But that is what
they are: expressions, not translations,
demonstrating their own terroir, their
own patrimoine. To my mind, therefore,
Burgundy remains Burgundy,
untranslatable and so often divine.
It’s why I will always remain loyal.
Robbie Toothill, Cellar Door Editor, considers the untranslatable world of Burgundy
| Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 201414 Cellar Door Autumn/Winter 2014 | 15
T604_Cellar Circle Advert HI RES.pdf 1 29/09/2014 15:58