Cblm_Assemble and Install Built-In and Pre-fabricate Cabinet Components

8/8/2019 Cblm_Assemble and Install Built-In and Pre-fabricate Cabinet Components

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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 1

CLASSIFICATION OF CABINET HARDWARE AND THEIR USES

1. Hinges

All hinges are used to make a movable jointbetween two pieces of material. A hinge consistsprimarily of a pin and two plates. There are three mostcommonly used hinges: full -mortise, half-surface, and

full-surface. Figure 1 shows the basic design of acommon door hinge.

Figure 1. Common door hinge

a. Full-Mortise. The full-mortise hinge is cut or

mortised (gained) into both the doorjamb and the

door. The leaves of a full-mortise hinge arecompletely hidden, leaving only the barrel exposed

when the door is closed.Figure 2. Full-mortise hinge

b. Full-Surface. The full-surface hinge is fastened

directly to the door and jamb, and no mortise isrequired. Note that the edges of the full-mortise are

beveled. The surface of the frame and door must be

flush when full-surface hinges are used.

Figure 3. Full-surface hinge

c. Half-Surface. As shown in Figure 4, the half-surfacebutt-type hinge is like the other hinges, except that

one leaf is fastened on the surface of the door and theother leaf fits into a grain in the frame.

Figure 4. Half-surface hinge

d. Cabinet Hinges. Hinges come in many styles and finishes for every

type of cabinet. Either full-mortise, full-surface, or half-surface hingesare used for cabinet work. A few of the designs of cabinet hinges are

shown in Figure 5.


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Figure 5. Cabinet hinges

e. Special Hinges. Many other types of hinges are available. Several are

shown in below.

Figure 6. Special hinges

2. Hinge Hasps

Hinge hasps are like hinges, except for the leaves. One leaf has screwholes for fastening the hasp in place. The other leaf is longer with a slot cut

near the outer end. A metal loop, riveted to a square metal base, is use dwith the hinge hasp. The base of the loop is fastened in place with four

screws. The slot in the long leaf of the hasp fits over the loop. A hinge hasp

is used with a padlock as a locking device. The long leaf of the safety hasp

covers the heads of all screws when it is in the locked position.

Figure 7. Hinge hasps

3. Locks and Striker Plates

The three general types of door locks are: the tubular, the cylindrical,and the mortise lock. Dead-bolt and rim locks can be installed to provide

additional security.

a. Tubular Locks. Tubular locks have all the advantages of mortiselocks, but are much easier to install because they only need bored

holes. They are used mainly for interior doors for bedrooms,bathrooms, passages, and closets. They are available with a keytumbler lock in the knob on the outside of the door or with a turn

button or push button on the inside. Figure 8 shows a tubular lockset.


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Figure 8. Tubular lock

b. Cylindrical Locks. Cylindrical locks are basically the same as thetubular type. The cylindrical lock is a sturdy, heavy-duty, and

stronger lock, which is used on exterior doors for maximum security.

Figure 9. Cylindrical lock

c. Mortise Locks. Mortise locks are used mainly on front or outsidedoors for high security. The present trend is away from using mortise

locks because of the difficulty and time required to install them.

Figure 10. Mortise lock

d. Dead Bolts. Dead Bolts are used where added security is needed. They

are constructed of very hard steel. Figure 11 shows a combinationdead bolt and combination dead bolt and latch.


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Figure 11. Dead bolt locks

e. Rim Locks. Rim locks are easier to install because they are normallyinstalled on the inside surface of exterior doors. One bored hole isusually all that is required. On some types, however, a recess must be

cut for the lock.

Figure 12. Rim lock

f. Striker Plate. A striker plate is usually mortised into the frame of the

opening for a lock. It prevents the wood from wearing or splitting and

cannot be pried loose easily.

Figure 13. Striker plate

Installing Pulls and Knobs


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Cabin

pullso knobsare usedon cabinet doors anddrawers. Theyco e in man y styles and desi ns. They are made o metal plastic, wood,porcelain, or other material (Fi . 89-24).

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Pulls andknobs are installedby drillin! holes through the door.Thenfasten them with machine screws from the inside. When two screws areused to fasten a pull, the holes are drilled slightly oversize in case they are alittle off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inchdiameter holes are drilled for 1 / 8inch machine screws.Todrillholes quickly and accurately, make a templatefrom scrap wood that fits over the door.The template canbe made so thatholes canbe drilled for doors that swing in either direction (Fig. 89-25).


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Figure ? Using a template when drilling holes for cabinet door pulls

Installing Door Catches

Doors without self-closing hinges need catchesto hold them closed. Thereare many kinds of catches available (Fig. 89-26). Catches should be placed

where they are not in the way, such as on the bottom of shelves, instead ofthe top.

a. Magnetic catches are widely used. They are available with single ordouble magnets of varying holding pow er. An adjustable magnet is

attached to the inside of the case. A metal plate is attached to thedoor. First attach the magnet. Then place the plate on the magnet.

Close the door and tap it opposite the plate. Projections on the platemark its location on the door. Attach the plate to the door where

marked. Try the door. Adjust the magnet, if necessary.b. Friction catches are installed in a similar manner to that used for

magnetic catches. Fasten the adjustable section to the case and theother section to the door.

c. Elbow catches are used to hold one door of a double set. They arereleased by reaching to the back side of the door. These catches arcusually used when one of the doors is locked against the other.

d. Bullet catches are spring loaded. They fit into the edge of the door.When the door is closed, the catch fits into a recessed plate mounted

on the frame.


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INFORMATION SHEET NO. 2.WOOD FILLERS

Wood fillers fix mistakes, fill holes and cover imperfections in a pieceof wood or woodworking project. Certain wood fillers work better in a given

situation than others and appear different on separate species of wood.Some wood filler may also act as a glue or adhesive so that joints appearseamless within a woodworking project.

Types of Wood Fillers

Epoxy

y a very hard, durable wood filler that can be used to fill any si " ed holefrom large and gaping to tiny and minuscule

y commonly used to fill large spaces since it doesnt react to heat andcold by expanding and contracting like other wood fillers

y generally comes in two parts, in a resin and an adhesive, that mix

together to form a paste.y epoxy molds, shapes and stretches easily when wet, making it ideal to

build up, repair or replace extremely damaged or missing areas ofwood or woodworking projects

y because of its durability and strength, mistakes in patching withepoxy are not easily resolved

y epoxy may dry clear, white or in a wood tone depending on the brandand specific type used.

Putty

y comes in different colors and shades to match the species of wood or

stain usedy colors may not match perfectly, but closely resemble the wood or stain

so that no extra stain or coloring is required to cover the patch

y if a premixed color doesnt match the damaged wood, mixing two ormore colors together may achieve the desired match

y wood putty performs best on small - to medium-si # ed holes

y should not be used to repair larger holes as it is not as durable as

other types of wood filler

y oil-based wood putty is available for filling small holes such as nail

holes and joints for a finished look, and remains flexible after drying.

Gluey for small holes or imperfections in a woodworking project, a quick

wood filler is a clear drying wood glue mixed with some fine sawdust

y this method creates a patch that closely or completely resembles theoriginal wood.

y glue and sawdust should only be used to patch very small holes ordamages, as it will not hold up structurally or look as good on largerholes


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y sawdust should be made from the existing wood if possible

Sanding Sealers

y as their name implies, these are used to seal the wood and are madefor sanding

y sanding sealers are made with $ inc stearate ( a soap -like material )which is added so that the sandpaper will not gum up while sandi ng

y use after staining and prior to finish clear coat

y sanding sealers are quick drying, allowing for multiple coats in a shortperiod of time and a quick finishing system

y because of the stearates in them will repel some clear coat finishes

y latex and polyurethanes in particular will not adhere well to theseintermediate clear coats

y it is important that you use a "system" of stain, sealer and clear coatthat is compatible

Shellacy preferred for sanding sealer

y although shellac will gum up a little when sanding, it is very quickdrying

y will not lift an oil based stain

y will not re-soften when varnished over

y shellac (unless "de-waxed") must be overcoated with an oil varnish

y other finishes will not adhere to shellac because of the naturallyoccurring wax contained in it

Pre-Stain Sealersy used on soft woods like pine to allow a more uniform and less freckled

stained finish

y be careful with these, you can overseal the bare wood so that it will

not take any stain.


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I FORMA ION SHEE NO. 3

INS A IN B I -IN AND/OR PRE-FABRI A ED CABINE SCOMPONENTS

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There are man y ways of guiding drawers (Fig. 90-11). The type ofdrawer guide selected affects the size of the drawer. The drawer must besupportedlevel and guided sideways. It must alsobe kept from tilting downwhenopened.

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Probably the simplest wood guide is the center strip. It is installedin

the bottom center of the opening from front toback (Fig. 90-12). The stripprojects above the bottom of the opening about 1/4inch.The bottom edge ofthe drawer back is notched to ride in the guide. A kicker is installed. It iscentered above the drawer tokeepit from tilting downward whenopened.

Another type of wood guide is the grooved center strip (Fig. 90-13).The strip is placed in the center of the opening from front to back. Amatching strip is fastened to the drawer bottom. In addition to guiding thedrawer, this system keeps it from tilting whenopened, eliminating the needfor drawer kickers.

Another type of wood guide is a rabbeted strip. Strips are used oneach side of the drawer opening (Fig. 90-14). The drawer sides fit into andslide along the rabbetedpieces. Sometimes these guides are made upof twopieces insteadof rabbeting one piece. A kicker above the drawer is necessarywith this type guide.


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Fi4

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Metal Drawer 9 uidesThere are many different types of metaldrawer guides. Some have a

single track mountedon the bottom center of the opening- Others may becentered above or on each side of the drawer. Nylon rollers mountedon thedrawer ride in the trackof the guide (Fig. 90-15).


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Figure ? I @ stalli @ g metal drawer guides

Instructions for installation differ with each type and manufacturer.When using commerciall y made drawer guides, read the instructions firstbefore making the drawer. soproper allowances for the drawer guide canbemade.

I A stalli A g Pulls and KnoB

sThe same style pulls or knobs that are usedon the doors are usedon

the drawers.They are installedin the same manner as ondoors. However, adifferent template is made to locate the holes. The template center is linedup with the center of the drawer. By using the template, all that is requiredtolocate holes is to find the center of any widthdrawer.The template canbemade for use indrawers ofdifferent heights (Fig. 90-16).

Figure ? Making template for qui C k and accurate installation of drawer full


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Steps in Using Wood Filler

Tools and Materials Needed:

y flat head screwdriver

y Small pair of scissors or Stanley knife

y Sandpaper (low and high grain)

y Wood filler (paste-base)

y large cloth

y Some hot water

y Paint thinner

y Primer

y large paintbrush

1. Sand Holes

y A nail or screw hole has to be tidied before filler can be applied

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Rotate a flat head screwdriver in the hole to be filled as this will clean it of anyimmediate debris

y Use a small piece of sandpaper to gently rub away at the edges of the hole

y Be sure to cut away any loose wood fibers with a Stanley knife or small pair ofscissors

y Ignore this step and a paint layer will have visible edges on the surface afterpainting

2. Apply Filler

y Get a paste-base wood filler and apply it in the neatened hole

y Spread enough filler into the hole so a small excess will be left above thesurface

y sand down excess to leave a perfectly level surface to paint on

y Do this for all the holes that need filling.

y Do not use a liquid-based filler, as this is only required for refined grainedwood patterns

3. Sand Filler

y Allow the filler to dry before any attempts are made to sand

y Use a medium or high grain sandpaper and apply even pressure to the areaswhere you have used the wood filler

y Sand the filler as even to the surface

y If you do not refine the wood filler with sandpaper, the filled areas will stick out

once paint dries over them.

4. Clean

y Use a large cloth and some hot water to gently wipe over the surface youhave been working on

y Alternatively, use a small amount of paint thinner on the cloth to strip awayany flaky areas of paint and woodwork

y Allow the water or thinner to dry and check that the debris has been cleared


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5. Check

y Run your hand over the top of the surface that will be painted; it should feelsmooth and even over the entire area

y Sand away any lumps you come across

y Carefully check the surface for any small holes you may have missed andapply extra wood filler accordingly

y Apply a layer of primer with a large paintbrush and you are ready to paintonce it has dried.

Cblm_Assemble and Install Built-In and Pre-fabricate Cabinet Components

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