CAPE VERDE ISLANDSSal, Boavista, São Nicolau, Santiago

March 14-23 2011gerrywestdean@yahoo.co.uk

This trip was easy and relatively cheap. Not only were all of the available endemics seen, but also several species previously recorded less than ten times were noted and a Booted Eagle was probably only the third for the islands. Of the endemics, we saw Cape Verde Barn Owl on three occasions, a very minimum of 16 Bourne's Herons, five Boyd's Shearwaters, one Cape Verde Buzzard, plenty of Alexander's and Neglected Kestrels, not very many Cape Verde Swifts, 12 Cape Verde Warblers at two sites and about 25 Raso Larks. The Cape Verde Kite is now considered extinct and the Cape Verde Peregrine has not been reported since 2004. It may still cling on somewhere. Of interest to WP listers were the sightings of an adult Magnificent Frigatebird in Sal Rei harbour, Boavista and two Intermediate Egrets, two Black Herons and a Black-headed Heron, all at Barragem de Poilão, the reservoir on Santiago. The only disappointment was not being able to land on Ilheu dos Passeros, Boavista to see the White-faced Petrels. The sea was high and extremely rough, making a landing impossible; this was probably due to the lunar perigee.

• March 14 depart Heathrow 1815 arrive Lisbon 2050 depart Lisbon 2155 arrive Sal at 0100; taxi to the hotel. o/n Hotel Atlantico, Espargos, Sal

• March 15 Sal; Pedra de Lumes Saltpans; taxi to airport for the 1550 flight to Boavista arriving 1620. Taxi to the hotel o/n Residence a Paz, Boavista

• March 16 Boavista; whale-watching trip; abortive trip to Ilheu dos Passeros o/n Residence a Paz, Boavista

• March 17 depart Sal Rei, Boavista 1145, arriving Sal 1215 and departing 1620. We arrived on Sao Nicolau at 1700 then took a taxi to Tarrafal. o/n Pensao Alice, Tarrafal, São Nicolau

• March 18 São Nicolau; morning seawatch from Punta de Barril; pm look for Cape Verde Barn Owl o/n Pensao Alice, Tarrafal, São Nicolau

• March 19 São Nicolau; Raso boat trip o/n Pensao Alice, Tarrafal, São Nicolau• March 20 São Nicolau; morning seawatch from Punta de Barril; pm Monte Gordo NP o/n

Pensao Alice, Tarrafal, São Nicolau• March 21 depart São Nicolau at 1155, arrive Sal 1235, depart Sal 1300 and arrive Santiago

1350; hire taxi for the rest of the day until 2000; check-in to the hotel, then drive to Barragem de Poilão o/n Hotel Luar, Santiago

• March 22 Santiago; booked taxi for the day. São Jorge dos Orgãos , Pedra Badejo, Barragem de Poilão Hotel Luar, Santiago

• March 23 depart Praia 0150, arrive Lisbon 0640 depart Lisbon 0950 arrive Heathrow 1240

FlightsThe strategy was to fly from the UK to one island (Sal) then back from another (Santiago). We took three internal flights as we progressed through the islands. All flights were booked online. The international section was booked with ebookers.com. We flew with TAP, the Portuguese airline, changed at Lisbon, then went onto Sal, Cape Verde. We returned from Santiago, changing again at Lisbon on the way back. The fare was £509.46 each. The internal flights were with TACV, the Cape Verde airline. These were booked with alternativeairlines.com, at £258 each. All flights were

punctual, without any cancellations. TACV insist that you confirm your flights by telephone. This is a little difficult in the UK, unless you have booked through TAP or through a travel agent. There is not a TACV office here, so British people must phone the offices in Lisbon, Paris or somewhere else. They take a long time to answer.

Getting aroundWe used taxis on all islands. We had planned to hire a car on Santiago, but both car-hire offices at the airport were closed and would not open for at least an hour. We decided to take a taxi to the hotel and hire a car from there. Upon chatting with the driver we found it was not much more expensive to book a taxi for a day or half day and this is what we did. So we did not have to worry about finding our way in and out of town or of leaving or bags and telescopes in the vehicle when we went out birding. Our driver, Paulino, was a very personable fellow, who spoke good English. He also knew the sites we wanted to visit, the Botanic Gardens at São Jorge dos Orgãos and the reservoir (Barragem de Poilão).

ContactsTaxi Driver, São Nicolau: Toi Lopes, 00238 2 361804 mobile 9945146toilopes@hotmail.comTaxi Driver, Santiago: Paulino Varela Mendonca, mobiles 00238 9 943506 and 00238 9 265837paulinovarelam@hotmail.comBoat to Ilheu dos Passeros, Boavista: Pedrin Lopes, 00238 9 927869curralvelho@hotmail.com

AccommodationI had a hard time booking accommodation. They either did not answer the phone or put the phone down when I was talking. However the hotel owner on Boavista did answer the phone, and he spoke good English. My emails were not answered. I later found that their preferred method of communication was Fax and when I sent some I got speedy replies. All hotels had plenty of available rooms except for those in Priai. We tried three when we arrived there and they were all full, so we continued to the Hotel Luar where we had a reservation. This large hotel was almost empty. It is very overpriced and had broken taps, lights and door-locks so is not recommended; the other three we stayed at were good. The Hotel Atlantico was nice and quiet, but can suddenly get very full if the planes cannot fly due to sandstorms. The Pensao Alice, however, is rather noisy, the noise coming from the street outside. Breakfast always consisted of stale bread and old cheese, cheap jam, a banana, and incredibly strong coffee. The evening meals were filling. Alice and her husband are extremely welcoming hosts.

• Hotel Atlantico, Espargos, Sal - 1 night, double 4600cvs/£36.56 http://www.caboverde.com/pages/411210.htm

• Residence a Paz, Boavista - 2 nights, double 9300cvs/£74 http://www.caboverde.com/pages2/965371.htm

• Pensao Alice, Tarrafal, São Nicolau - 4 nights, double 12000cvs/£95.30 http://www.caboverde.com/pages/361187.htm

• Hotel Luar, Santiago - 1.5 nights, double 8700cvs/£69 http://www.caboverde.com/pages/615947.htm

LocalitiesSalPedra de Lumes SaltpansLocated about seven kilometres from Espargos, this is a tourist spot, where people go to swim in the salty water. Therefore every taxi driver knows where this place is. Once you have gone through the short tunnel you can wander where you like within the old crater.

BoavistaCurral Velho and Ilheu dos PasserosBoth trips require a 4x4 and can be done on the same day. Pedrin can arrange this for you and pick you up at your hotel. We did not go to the Frigatebird site, Curral Velho, as we had seen one in Sal Rei harbour. To see the White-faced Petrels it is necessary to stay overnight on Ilheu dos Passeros.São NicolauPunta de BarrilLocated about seven kilometres north of TarrafalRaso IslandVisited by taking a boat from Tarrafal harbourChurch of CachaçoOn the road from the airport to TarrafalMonte Gordo National ParkThe turning is opposite the Church of Cachaço on the road from the airport to TarrafalSantiagoBarragem de PoilãoForty-five minutes from Priai. Visible to the south of the road from São Lourenço dos Orgãos (east of João Teves) and Pedra BadajosSão Jorge dos Orgãos Botanic Gardens Forty minutes from Priai. Located to the west and south of João TevesCliffs east of PriaiA lot of building has occurred since Sergeant's Birder's Guide was written. It's a maze - get a taxi!

MiscellaneousDaylight: On the first day the sun rose at 0643 and on the last day at 0636. It set at 1845. Visas: Can be bought at the airport for 25 euros. Departure tax: does not have to be paid when leaving the Cape Verde Islands. Beer: Best are Superbock and Strella. Cost of the trip: The total for each of us was £1468. Maps: Were not necessary. I only took the Goldstadt 1:60 000 map of Santiago, but it was not used. With postage it cost a massive £18.25 from Stanfords. Books: I used the Bradt Travel Guide and Tony Clarke's Birds of the Atlantic Islands. Dave Sergeant's Birder's Guide, with its useful maps, is still well worth getting, even though some of the sites have deteriorated badly. Trip Reports: There were 23 on Travellingbirder.com; I read most and printed eight and took them with me. Timing of the trip: This has traditionally been a February - March trip to try to see the breeding Bourne's Herons. If I were going again I would go a few weeks later, as now that the reservoir has been built, and the birds are present all afternoon, it is possible to go in April and see the herons as well as more seabirds. It would then be possible to see far more Boyd's Shearwaters.

Daily AccountsMarch 14 2011London – SalWe flew from Heathrow at 1815 arriving in Lisbon at 2050. We left Lisbon at 2155.

March 15 2011Sal - BoavistaOur flight landed more or less on time at 0110. We queued for 45 minutes for our 25 euro visas; even the people who had bought their visas for a premium in the UK had to queue. There was only one moneychanger open and we changed as much as we thought the two of us would need. That was £730. The boat trips would be paid in euros and if we ran out of cvs we had plenty more euros. It would always be possible to change more money as all our flights went through Sal airport, where, in the daytime, there were several moneychangers open. By now it was 0200 and we got a taxi, for 500cvs, to the hotel. Check-in was straightforward and we were soon in bed. We were up at 0900 for breakfast, and surreptitiously made a few rolls to eat later. I phoned TACV to confirm our

onward flights from a free phone in the hotel lobby. By now we had already seen our first endemic, the Iago Sparrow; there were about 20 in the hotel grounds. Checkout was at 1200, but we could stay till 1400 at no extra charge. We hired a taxi for 1000cvs to take us to Pedra de Lumes Saltpans and back. The picturesque saltpans are inside a huge old crater and comprise the only birding site worth visiting on Sal. Entrance is at a staggering 5 euros each. Others have seen rarities here, but we only saw the expected mix of wading birds. These were 20 Black-winged Stilts, three Grey, four Ringed and 40 Kentish Plovers, one Common and 35 Curlew Sandpipers, three Ruddy Turnstones and 25 Sanderling. An Osprey flew around and was observed closely. We were back at the hotel at 1300 and the same driver took us to the airport for 200cvs. Before checking in I went to the TACV office and confirmed the rest of our internal flights. No delays were expected. We then took the 1550 flight to Boavista arriving at 1620. We took a taxi to the hotel, and after checking in, had a walk around town, seeing a few interesting species, the best being an adult Magnificent Frigatebird in Sal Rei harbour. It was soaring overhead for about an hour. I don't know if it was one of the breeding pair from Curral Velho (they sit on their infertile eggs for many months), or another bird. Around the harbour area we saw one Whimbrel, 25 Ruddy Turnstones, four Sanderling, three House Martins, one Brown-necked Raven, and observed a large flock of Spanish Sparrows as the birds clustered into a tree to roost. I spoke with Pedrin on the telephone and he came round to discuss our trip to Ilheu dos Passeros to see the White-faced Petrels.

March 16 2011BoavistaIn the morning we went out on a whale-watching trip (48 euros), booked at a travel agent nearby, but we paid the Captain directly. We had good views of Humpback Whales in the bay. We saw six of them, but we were to get better views later in the trip. Not many birds of note were seen, only ten Brown Boobies and a Sandwich Tern. Two Alexander's Kestrels were in town and another was over the island, where there was also a Brown-necked Raven. We saw three House Martins, one Whimbrel, ten Ruddy Turnstones, two Spanish and 20 Iago Sparrows around town. After a meal we met Pedrin at our hotel for our trip to Ilheu dos Passeros. We jumped into the 4x4 vehicle and off we went. As we got out of town we saw plenty of birds, but they were all of the same few species. When we reached Monte Trigo, which held water, we saw more species. We saw a few Little and many Cattle Egrets, a Grey Heron two Eurasian Spoonbills and a Common Moorhen. Two Egyptian Vultures seemed to be all that was left of Boavista's population as a result of the use of poison. There were also two Ospreys, one Alexander's Kestrel, eight Cream-coloured Coursers, four Black-winged Stilts, one Grey, four Ringed and 80 Kentish Plovers. Bar-tailed Desert Larks were very common, and there were also six Black-crowned Sparrow-larks, six Greater Hoopoe-larks and three Spectacled Warblers. Brown-necked Ravens were common and Iago Sparrows were very common. When we reached Bahia das Gatas the boatman said that it was very rough and possibly unsafe to try to land on Ilheu dos Passeros. Although the sea was high I went out on the little boat with Pedrin. We could not get close enough to the island to land so we had to abandon the trip, which was a great disappointment. On the way back we stopped at a well where Pedrin had previously found breeding Cape Verde Barn Owls, but there was nothing there now. Here we flushed two separate Common Quail; both were seen very well crouching in the dry grass.

March 17 2011Boavista - São NicolauI phoned Toi on São Nicolau to let him know we were coming and we wanted to be driven from the airport to Tarrafal. We took a taxi to the airport for 500cvs. Our first flight was 20 minutes late leaving, but there would have been time to go to Sal's Pedra de Lumes Saltpans if we had wanted to. Our second flight was on time, landing on São Nicolau at 1700. The taxi journey took nearly an hour as it was a winding road through the mountains; in reality the distance was not great. Six Cape Verde Swifts and four Neglected Kestrels were seen. Toi asked if we wanted to go to Raso and I

said yes, but I thought it would be too expensive for just two people. I knew others had paid up to 700 euros (£614) for the boat. I said I would rather not go than pay that much. He said he would speak to someone later. When he came back the news was good. He had got us a boat for 450 euros (£395) and we could be on the island for three hours.

March 18 2011São NicolauWe were up at 0645 for breakfast. Toi picked us up at 0730 and took us to the lighthouse at Punta de Barril. As the strong north wind blew we logged 100 Cape Verde Shearwaters, 22 Fea's Petrels, six Brown Boobies, four Red-billed Tropicbirds, four Ospreys, one Neglected Kestrel and a Whimbrel. Near to the lighthouse we saw four Cream-coloured Coursers, two Bar-tailed Desert-larks and four Brown-necked Ravens. At 1100 we were picked up and taken back to the pension. Around town we saw 60 Cattle and four Little Egrets, one Grey Heron, 35 Ruddy Turnstones, six Sanderling, five Cape Verde Swifts, and many Iago Sparrows. We then relaxed until 1830 then went out by taxi to look for the Cape Verde Barn Owl behind the church of Cachaço. We didn't see it and I was a little disappointed. On the way back one flew right by the car at the 20-km sign!

March 19 2011São Nicolau - RasoWe left the harbour at 0800 for our trip to Raso Island. The boat was powerful and got us to the island in 1 hour and 40 minutes. For birds the crossings were rather poor, without good numbers of Cape Verde Shearwaters and only two Fea's Petrels on the way out and three on the way back. Upon reaching Raso we transferred to a small rubber dinghy and were rowed close to the flat rocks. The tide was low so landing was easy. We then scrambled up to the flat grassy area and very soon saw our first Raso Larks. Within a small area we saw 25 and views were good and close; the birds were quite approachable. Nearby two Western Marsh Harriers were flying close together and later two Common Quail were flushed. We walked along the clifftops and observed 40 Brown Boobies and 15 Red-billed Tropicbirds. There were also about 80 Iago Sparrows. The thrill and pleasure of walking here was somewhat dampened by our views of nearby Branco Island, coupled with the knowledge that we were not allowed to land there and we would have to see its seabirds in some other part of the world. It does seem very unfair that birders are usually not allowed to land on Raso and Branco when the locals are not stopped from pulling the young Cape Verde Shearwaters from their burrows and killing them. This happens every October and I was told that four truckloads were unloaded from the fishing boats last season. On Raso there was a large group of people beneath the cliffs and others on top. Surely none had any right to be there. The many splashes of whitewash on the ledges indicated where an active booby's nest should be but there were no birds. It was as if the eggs had been taken and the birds had moved on. All too soon it was time to go back. Our Captain did not want to go back late as he knew that the sea was getting rougher. We had a bumpy ride back, but did not get wet. We were back at 1400 and had a siesta.

March 20 2011São NicolauWe were up at 0630, then picked up at 0700 and taken to the lighthouse at Punta de Barril for a two-hour seawatch. But we had to stop suddenly on the way as a Humpback Whale breached very close to the shore. There were two and they came up six times before moving on. We were to see them 30 minutes later passing the lighthouse. Here they were even closer and went past slowly. The wind had shifted from north to north-west and it may have been this slight change that made the birding better. There were about 400 Cape Verde Shearwaters and 35 Fea's Petrels, but only one Brown Booby. Then I spotted a little black and white bird. It was always low over the water and frequently crashed into the water with a splash. It would sit on the water and it would also dive. Then it would get up and fly off, then turn back and crash into the water again. In flight it either

glided or fluttered; when it turned, its tail was fanned fully. This was our first Boyd's Shearwater and we saw four more. All were close in; maybe I had been looking too far out. After ten minutes it flew quickly away. How some people can describe their flight as auk-like baffles me. Near to the lighthouse we saw four Ospreys, four Cream-coloured Coursers, eight Bar-tailed Desert-larks and six Brown-necked Ravens. We returned to the pension for breakfast. At 1100 we were picked up for our trip to Monte Gordo National Park, where we saw 26 Helmeted Guineafowl, 20 Brown-necked Ravens and 15 Neglected Kestrels. The park was remarkable for its population of Blackcaps; it was the most dense I have ever seen and birds were singing everywhere and even very close together. Some birds only sang their sub-song, perhaps so they would be tolerated within a dominant male's territory. In the open area we heard many Spectacled Warblers and saw six. On the way back, near to where the track joins the main road we saw the only two Rock Doves that looked genuine. A Cape Verde Swift flew over.

March 21 2011São Nicolau - SantiagoAfter a later-than-usual breakfast we settled our bill at the pension. Toi arrived and we drove to the airport, where we settled our bill with him. A few Neglected Kestrels were seen on the journey. Feeling somewhat less wealthy than we did at breakfast we boarded our plane, which left on time. I had been warned to be on my guard at Santiago airport and not give my bag to anyone, unless it was my decision to go where they suggested. Also I was told not to stay at the usual 'birders hotel' – The Hotel Sol Atlantico. There had been aggravated robberies in the area and even the locals apparently did not like it around there. With this in mind we found that both the car-hire offices were shut and we could not do what we had intended. The girl at the information desk said that they would open in an hours' time. As we were already getting hassled by three taxi drivers we decided to take a taxi to the hotel and hire a car from there. Upon chatting with the driver we found it was not much more expensive to book a taxi for a day than it was to hire a car. Our driver was Paulino, who is a very personable fellow and he knew the sites we wanted to visit, the Botanic Gardens at São Jorge dos Orgãos and the reservoir (Barragem de Poilão). This afternoon we only had time for one locality, the reservoir. He took us to our hotel and as we needed half an hour to settle in, he came back later. We booked him for the rest of the day telling him we would not want to leave the reservoir until about 1920 and therefore be back at 2000. He said this was fine and the trip from the airport to the hotel was included in the fee of 50 euros. So, as we were being driven by a local, we got out of town without getting lost and found the reservoir easily too. Had I been driving, the lack of signposts would have been only the first problem. He parked in a space above the dam and waited; we walked down to the dam and worked our way along. Just about everything we saw was from the dam, where telescopes are needed, as this is a long and rather narrow body of water. The first bird of note was sitting in a close dead tree in the water. It was a Black-headed Heron, a vagrant from Africa, a first for the Islands that had been found in 2009. Although a distinctive-looking bird and one that I had seen before, I still wanted to see the underwing pattern, and later we did. A little further on an Intermediate Egret was found on a close islet. This was watched for a long time, largely to be sure that it was not a Great White Egret. I must confess that I never pay them much attention. Anyway it looked good; it was everything that an Intermediate Egret should be, but what a surprise to see a second, also established on its own little islet a little further away. The first of at least ten Bourne's Herons was seen to fly in at 1710. After this others arrived, singly or in twos or threes. It seemed that the first thing that they wanted to do was drink. These could be observed where they had landed, they did not try to hide. About half of the birds were juveniles, which differed from Purple Herons of the same age in their chestnut, not black crowns. Further out a partially obscured bird was feeding by holding its wings out in front of it and forming an 'umbrella'. This was an African species, the Black Heron - and later a second was spotted, feeding in the same style, further away. Having observed all of these birds we could now look around and see what else was here. A Glossy Ibis was feeding a long way off, but much closer there were at least eight Squacco Herons. Some Black-crowned Night Herons were found hiding in some

waterside bushes, but as the light faded six flew around. On a steep side to the reservoir, 25 Grey Herons and 35 Eurasian Spoonbills were roosting, and on the water or at its edge there were ten Common Moorhens, one Black-winged Stilt, eight Common Greenshanks, five Common and at least two Green Sandpipers and a Common Snipe. About five Alexander's Kestrels were seen, but the big surprise was an adult pale-morph Booted Eagle that flew out from the hills, came over the reservoir, then went back. I only saw it when I noticed the Intermediate Egret intently watching something above. Two Spectacled Warblers were seen and others were heard and there were ten Brown-necked Ravens. Plenty of Grey-headed Kingfishers were around the reservoir and there was also a flock of Common Waxbills. A Barn Swallow slowly flew over the dam and, while scoping some other birds, a warbler was seen in the vegetation. It was unfamiliar to me and must have been a Cape Verde Warbler, although I would not confirm this until tomorrow, when they were seen here and at another site. As we walked off the dam and up to where our taxi was waiting, a Cape Verde Barn Owl came round, hunting over the nearby hill. A great end to a superb afternoon's birding.

March 22 2011SantiagoWe booked our taxi for the whole day for 90 euros and went first to the cliffs to the east of Priai. Here we spent about 45 minutes and saw four Red-billed Tropicbirds, two Alexander's Kestrels, five Cape Verde Swifts, four Black-crowned Sparrow-larks and two Bar-tailed Desert Larks. We then drove to São Jorge dos Orgãos. We only had vague information regarding the Cape Verde Warbler, that it was to be seen in the vicinity of the Botanic Gardens. When we neared the Botanic Gardens, Paulino took us beyond it, to a lookout, which gave a nice view of some distant hills. Here we saw our only Cape Verde Buzzard, which is now a very rare bird on the Islands. We then walked through the Botanic Gardens seeing only a lot of Blackcaps. We went out through the gate at the other end and followed the track. This did not seem quite right. All accounts and pictures of the habitat of the Cape Verde Warbler had led me to believe that the birds would be somewhere lush and green. But that was not the case as we were to find them quite easily in the dry scrub by the side of the track, although they also fed higher up. They were located by call, a distinctive, loud sound, which was like nothing else and certainly nothing like an Acrocephalus warbler. In the heat of the day we went to Pedra Badejo, where very little was seen, just 30 Spanish Sparrows and a few waders. We ate the sandwiches we had made in the hotel at breakfast. At 1430 we went to Barragem de Poilão. This time our driver dropped us off and went back to Priai; we told him to pick us up at 1920. We spent most of the time looking through our telescopes from the dam but also walked along the edge of the north-east corner. Here several Cape Verde Warblers were seen. Most of yesterday's birds were seen again, some in better numbers. The Black-headed Heron, the two Intermediate Egrets and the two Black Herons were all seen again. We logged a minimum of 16 Bourne's Herons. I noticed our first just after we arrived and they could be seen all afternoon. Some birds came in very high from over the hills; others flew in much lower. They seemed to prefer resting at the dam end of the reservoir. A disturbance further away resulted in a count of 15 Black-crowned Night Herons, which landed in various open spots where they remained until the evening. The same disturbance brought three Glossy Ibises to our end of the reservoir. At least eight Squacco Herons were seen again and there were 40 Grey Herons and 50 Eurasian Spoonbills. There were ten Common Moorhens and two broods (one of one and another of two chicks) and 15 Common Greenshank, seven Common and four Green Sandpipers and two Common Snipe. A small duck a long way off was a teal of some sort. Other birds seen were 40 Grey-headed Kingfishers, two Spectacled Warblers, several Spanish Sparrows and 15 Common Waxbills. During the day we saw 15 Alexander's Kestrels. Our taxi arrived to take us back to our hotel in Priai while we were watching the Cape Verde Barn Owl; it had come out at the same time and was hunting over the same hillside as it did last night. So the trip was now almost over; we just had to get back to the hotel, dine, drink, pack and go. Our taxi driver, Paulino, returned at 2340 and took us to the airport.

March 23 2011Santiago - LondonWe were at the airport just after midnight and flew at 0150, arriving in Lisbon at 0640, departing at 0950. We arrived at Heathrow at 1240.

SYSTEMATIC LIST 61 speciesFEA’S PETREL Pterodroma feae18 March 22 Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau19 March 5 between São Nicolau and Raso20 March 35 Ponta do Barril, São NicolauCAPE VERDE SHEARWATER Calonectris edwardsi18 March 100 Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau19 March 125 between São Nicolau and Raso20 March 400 Ponta do Barril, São NicolauBOYD’S SHEARWATER Puffinus boydi20 March 5 Ponta do Barril, São NicolauRed-billed Tropicbird Phaethon aethereus18 March 4 Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau19 March 15 Raso Island, São Nicolau22 March 4 east of Praia harbour, SantiagoBrown Booby Sula leucogaster16 March 10 Sal Rei, Boavista16 March 5 Bahia das Gatas, Boavista18 March 6 Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau19 March 40 Raso Island, São Nicolau20 March 1 Ponta do Barril, São NicolauMagnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens lowei26 March 1 Sal Rei harbour, BoavistaBlack-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax21 March 6 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 15 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoSquacco Heron Ardeola ralloides21 March 8+ Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 8+ Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoCattle Egret Bubulcus ibisCommon, seen on all islands. There was a large roost at Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoBlack Heron Hydranassa ardesiaca21 March 2 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 2 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoIntermediate Egret Egretta intermedia21 March 2 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 2 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoLittle Egret Egretta garzettaSeen at Boavista, São Nicolau, but most were at Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoBlack-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala21 March 1 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago. First record for the Islands when found in 200922 March 1 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago Grey Heron Ardea cinerea16 March 1 Bahia das Gatas, Boavista18 March 1 Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau

21 March 25 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 40 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoBOURNE’S HERON Ardea bournei21 March 10+ Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 16+ Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoGlossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus21 March 1 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 3 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoEurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia16 March 2 Monte Trigo, Boavista21 March 36 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 50 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoTeal sp Anas sp22 March 1 female Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoEgyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus16 March 2 Monte Trigo, BoavistaBooted Eagle Aquila pennata21 March 1 pale morph adult, Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoWestern Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus19 March 2 flying together on Raso Island, São Nicolau CAPE VERDE BUZZARD Buteo bannermani21 March 1 São Jorge dos Orgãos, SantiagoOsprey Pandion haliaetusSeen on Sal, Boavista and São Nicolau, but not on SantiagoALEXANDER’S KESTREL Falco alexandri16 March 4 Boavista. Common on Santiago.NEGLECTED KESTREL Falco neglectus17 March 4 São Nicolau18 March 1 São Nicolau19 March 1 São Nicolau20 March 15 São Nicolau21 March 3 São NicolauCommon Quail Coturnix coturnix inopinata16 March 2 between Monte Trigo and Bahia das Gatas, Boavista19 March 2 Raso Island, São NicolauHelmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris17 March 25 seen from the plane as we landed on São Nicolau20 March 26 in Monte Gordo NP, São NicolauCommon Moorhen Gallinula chloropus16 March 1 Monte Trigo, Boavista21 March 10 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 10 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago. There were also two separate young broods.Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus15 March 20 Pedra de Lume saltpans, Sal16 March 4 Monte Trigo, Boavista21 March 1 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 4 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoCream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor exsul16 March 8 (inc 2 immatures) between Monte Trigo and Bahia das Gatas, Boavista18 March 4 near Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau20 March 4 near Ponta do Barril, São NicolauCommon Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula

15 March 4 Pedra de Lume saltpans, Sal16 March 1 near Bahia das Gatas, Boavista22 March 1 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoKentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus15 March 40 Pedra de Lume saltpans, Sal16 March 80 Monte Trigo, BoavistaGrey Plover Pluvialis squaterola15 March 3 Pedra de Lume saltpans, Sal16 March 1 near Bahia das Gatas, BoavistaSanderling Calidris alba15 March 25 Pedra de Lume saltpans, Sal15 March 3 Sal Rei, Boavista16 March 1 near Bahia das Gatas, Boavista18 March 6 Ponta do Barril, São NicolauCurlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea15 March 35 Pedra de Lume saltpans, SalCommon Snipe Gallinago gallinago21 March 1 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 2 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoWhimbrel Numenius phaeopus15 March 1 Sal Rei, Boavista16 March 1 near Bahia das Gatas, Boavista18 March 6 Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau19 March 1 Raso Island, São NicolauCommon Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos15 March 1 Sal Rei harbour, Boavista21 March 9 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 10 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoGreen Sandpiper Tringa ochropus21 March 2+ Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 4+ Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoRedshank Tringa totanus15 March 4 Pedra de Lume saltpans, SalGreenshank Tringa nebularia15 March 1 Pedra de Lume saltpans, Sal21 March 8 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 15 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoA colour-ringed bird had been caught in the Ythan Estuary, Aberdeen, Scotland Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola16 March 2 Monte Trigo, BoavistaRuddy Turnstone Arenaria interpresSeen commonly on the first six days, but not on the last two, on SantiagoSandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis15 March 1 Sal Rei, BoavistaRock Dove Columba liviaSeen daily on all islands; all looked suspect, except for two to the west of Tarrafal, São Nicolau CAPE VERDE BARN OWL Tyto detortaWe failed to find it behind the church of Cachaço, São Nicolau, but saw one on the roadside on the way back to Tarrafal by the 20 km sign on 18 March. On Boavista Pedrin showed us an old well where a pair had bred previously. One came out at 1910 on two consecutive nights near the car park at Barragem de Poilão, Santiago and was observed huntingCAPE VERDE SWIFT Apus alexandri

17 March 6 Tarrafal, São Nicolau18 March 5 Tarrafal, São Nicolau19 March 3 Tarrafal, São Nicolau20 March 1 Tarrafal, São Nicolau22 March 5 east of Praia harbour, SantiagoGrey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala acteonCommon, about 40 daily on SantiagoRASO LARK Alauda razae19 March 25 Raso Island, São Nicolau, where we landed with permission and had good viewsBlack-crowned Sparrow-lark Eremopterix nigriceps16 March 6 Monte Trigo, Boavista22 March 4 east of Praia harbour, SantiagoBar-tailed Lark Ammomanes cincturus15 March 2 near Pedra de Lume saltpans, Sal16 March many between Sal Rei and Bahia das Gatas, Boavista18 March 2 Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau20 March 8 Ponta do Barril, São Nicolau22 March 2 east of Praia Harbour, SantiagoGreater Hoopoe-lark Alaemon alaudipes boavistae16 March 6 between Sal Rei and Baía das Gatas, Boavista. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica21 March 1 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoHouse Martin Delichon urbica15 March 3 Sal Rei, Boavista16 March 2 Sal Rei, BoavistaCAPE VERDE WARBLER Acrocephalus brevipennis21 March 1 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 6 São Jorge dos Orgãos, Santiago. 5 Barragem de Poilão, SantiagoBlackcap Sylvia atricapilla gularisExceedingly common in Monte Gordo NP, São Nicolau and at São Jorge dos Orgãos, SantiagoSpectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis16 March 3 between Sal Rei and Bahia das Gatas, Boavista20 March 6, plus many more heard, Monte Gordo NP, São Nicolau21 March 2 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 4 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago, 2 Pedra Badejo, SantiagoBrown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollisSeen every day on all islands. Highest count was 20 in Monte Gordo NP, São NicolauSpanish SparrowPasser hispaniolensis15 March many noisy birds going to roost by the harbour, Sal Rei, Boavista22 March 30 Pedra Badejo, SantiagoIAGO SPARROWPasser iagoensisThe most common and widespread bird on the Cape Verde Islands, even seen on Raso. Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild21 March 25 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago22 March 15 Barragem de Poilão, Santiago

Gallery

Black-headed Heron

Squacco Heron

Intermediate Egret

Intermediate Egret

Black Heron

Bourne's Herons juvs

Red-billed Tropicbirds

Cape Verde Shearwater

Brown Booby

Grey-headed Kingfishers

Cream-coloured Courser

Booted Eagle

Spectacled Warbler

Raso Larks

Cape Verde Warbler

Iago Sparrow

Iago Sparrows

Barragem de Poilão, Santiago