NMC Northumbrian

Mountaineering

Club

Caller Crag South — A Bouldering

Guide

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NMC Northumbrian

Mountaineering

Club

A series of downloadable PDF guides to new bouldering venues , problems, highballs and routes in Northumberland. Including:

The Stell Whiteheugh Raven’s Crag

Caller Crag , Corby’s and Edlingham Greensheen Hill Parkside Wood

The Maiden Chambers Area St Cuthbert’s Cave The Bowden Area

The Wanneys Group Beanly Moor and Hunterheugh Blakey’s Block

Cockenheugh Kyloe Out Rothley

The Ravensheugh Area Banno Crags Titlington and the Turban

South Yardhope Brady’s Crag Coquet View

Shitlington Lookwide Howlerhirst

High Crag Black Crag Hunterheugh

...Northumberland Bouldering

TECHNICAL NOTES

The location of each crag is indicated by its Grid Reference.

Maps

The County is covered by six Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 maps. Sheets 74 (Kelso), 75 (Berwick upon

Tweed), 80 (The Cheviot Hills), 81 (Alnwick and Rothbury), 87 (Hexham and Haltwhistle) and 88

(Tyneside). The majority of the crags lie on sheets 75 and 81.

General

On occasions the problems are referenced to routes that are not described in the climbing guide, or

in the second edition bouldering guide. These are highlighted in blue italics. You may need these

guides or to ask a local climber help you locate the problems.

Sit Starts

Most problems are written up as standing starts off one mat only! Generally sit starts are added at

the end of a description where they add either to the difficulty, or quality . Only rarely will a sit start

be separately named.

Rules

It has long been understood in Northumberland that if a twig is found on a ‘good’ foothold, then the

foothold is out of bounds. The same applies to bedding planes , ledges and footholds in contact with

the ground. Usually these are out of bounds. The previous guide wisely suggested that if you are

wondering if the foothold is in, then it probably is not!

Further Information

The NMC website has a variety of resources relating to climbing in the County. If you have this PDF

you’ve probably found it already. Otherwise go to: www.thenmc.org.uk

1 2

Bob Smith

Greensheen Slopers Traverse

Greensheen Hill

BOULDERING GRADES

It is true to say that there are only two grades, the problems and routes you can do, and those you

can’t. To the keen boulderer however it soon becomes apparent that this can be sub divided into the

problems you can do and your mates can’t, and vice versa! Grading boulder problems (and some

routes) is an almost impossible task. The table below is a rough comparison of the common systems

in use. Visitors to the County will probably find that until they get used to the style of the problems

and the intricacies of climbing on the County’s various Sandstones, the accuracy of the table will be

questionable. Grades are an art rather than a science, and while difficulty is central to bouldering , it is

easily confused with quality. The pursuit of which is an equally

rewarding endeavour.

The various grading systems are well understood, and like grades

are an ongoing source of debate regarding their respective mer-

its. In these PDF guides we have retained the Font grades intro-

duced in the last guidebook and their use is now established and

understood.

Highballs

The height of many crags in the County lends them to a highball

approach. Mats can reduce the consequences when highballing

goes wrong, but there comes a point when they look very small.

Many of these ‘problems’ would have been considered small

routes not long back, (though some in this new series are not so

small) and occasionally are compounded with bad landings. Fall-

ing off them should not be treated casually.

FONT UK TECH V GRADE

3 4c VB

4 5a

V0

4+ 5b

5 V1

5+ 5c

6a V2

6a+ 6a V3

6b

6b+ V4

6c 6b V5

7a V6

7a+ 6c V7

7b

7b+ V8

7c V9

7c+ V10

8a 7a V11

8a+ V12

8b 7b V13

8b V14

Steve Blake

Shitlington Wall

Shitlington

Photo: Alec Burns

Introduction...

Introduction... ...Northumberland Bouldering

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SUSTAINABILITY

The quality and durability of Sandstone in Northum-

berland varies significantly both on and between

crags. Iron hard rock with a case hardened patina can

coexist with a super soft cheesy substance soft enough

to be shaped by hand. Sadly there is much evidence

that the tough patina when worn away reveals a soft

inner that rapidly erodes. There are many examples,

but Vienna at Bowden Doors is probably the most fa-

mous example, which in its current deplorable state is

a much easier and sad shadow of the original .

Over the last thirty years the popularity of Rock Climb-

ing and Bouldering has accelerated and there is much

similar evidence of our impact on the crags. Routes

and problems on Sandstone, especially on fragile and

well-used Sandstone, are a finite resource and need

careful and sensitive protection if they are to survive.

It is worth repeating that you should not climb on

sandstone when there is any evidence of dampness.

The rock becomes significantly weaker losing its bond-

ing when damp, and is susceptible to accelerated ero-

sion and breakage. Once a break occurs, or the outer

patina is penetrated, then the effects of erosion are

exponential.

Many magnificent routes in Northumberland have escaped significant damage, principally because the habit of

top roping hard routes has not been adopted as readily as elsewhere. Bouldering however, is a particularly inten-

sive game which can see a team cycling through repeated

attempts on a problem, brushing and ragging between each

effort. The impact of this can be seen on relatively recent

problems on which holds are already bleaching out, and this is

on rock thought of as hard.

We are the stewards of these places. There are many things

we can do to minimise our direct impact on them:

1. Everyone should acknowledge and understand the fragility

of the medium, and learn to walk away if there is any sugges-

tion of dampness and the rock is not in condition.

2. Set yourself a realistic number of attempts at a prob-

lem, if you can’t do it, leave it until you can do it without

beating it into submission. We need to have enough hu-

mility to understand that the rock’s needs are more im-

portant than our egos. Learn to walk away and come back when you’re capable.

Vienna

Bowden Doors

David Murray

On Barnaby Rudge

The Good Book Section, The Stell.

Alec Burns collection

3. Be gentle with brushwork, and minimal with your chalk. Climbing indoors, we can brush the holds to our

hearts content; outdoors, the effect can be catastrophic.

4. Poor footwork also impacts, so clean your shoes before you begin an attempt. Modern shoes allow a huge

amount of force to be exerted through the feet, e.g. twisting on smears has a grinding effect that speeds up ero-

sion. Be aware, use good footwork and tread lightly.

5. Don’t use the problems for training. Running laps may look cool, but do it indoors on plastic, not on the

rock.

6. Take your junk home, don’t light fires, don’t leave gates open. If you must, learn how to shit in the woods.

Do not be generally antisocial.

LOCATION AND CHARACTER

Clearly visible from the B6341, the crag is located on Edlingham Moor, between the lower lying

Edlingham and Redheugh crags. The crag is approximately 2O0m long and faces West. It catches the

afternoon and evening sun in the Summer. It is exposed and does carry drainage and is slow to dry

after prolonged rain. Any Westerly wind will be felt, and there is little shelter.

The crag is on Access Land and climbers have a right of access to the crags. There are no indications

that the land is used for anything other than sheep rearing and no closures have ever been noted.

These would have to be agreed by Natural England and posted on the Access Land web site. This

can be found at www.openaccess.naturalengland.org.uk.

The diagrams opposite should be sufficient to get the newcomer to the area to the crag.

5

Caller Crag

Since before the last bouldering guide

was published climbers have been walk-

ing past Caller Crag, dismissing it as a ven-

ue because of the softness of the rock.

However the liberal use of masonry stabi-

liser has transformed the rock and holds

on the established problems, which rank

amongst the best in the county at the

grade.

However the problems will need monitor-

ing, and as the venue gets the attention it

deserves repeated applications of stabi-

liser will probably be required. Only time

will tell.

Approach

There is parking for several cars by the second gate, just before

the start of the Edlingham Plantation. Pleas do not block the gate.

Follow the Bridleway/track to the right of the plantation, This

crests several small escarpments. The crag comes into view about

15 minutes from the car. There are several indistinct tracts to the

crag. The best takes you to the centre of the Southern group.

OS Map Sheets: 81 (1:50,000), 332 (1:25000) GR NU114 068

Altitude: 223m

Aspect: West Facing

Approach: 20 Minutes

Right of Access Under CROW

N

N

Crag Overview

Crag Location

Crag Lat Long: 55.330528 –1.899919

Crag GR: NU 114 068

Crag Detail

Parking Location

Parking Lat Long: 55.36007 –1.827099

Parking GR: NU 1106073

A1

A1

Alnwick

A697 B6341

The Stell

B6341

Beanly Moor

Hunterheugh

Titlington

Corby’s

Edlingham

Redheugh

Oxen Wood

Caller Crag

P

Caller Crag

Redheugh

Edlingham P

B6341

6

Tim Blake

The Unpalatable Cleft

Steve Blake Collection

7 8

Caller Crag ... …...North Caller Crag ... ...North

When the escarpment is crested the crag is apparent in front of the viewer. The guide is split into

two parts; Northern and Southern sections. The best of the feint trails lead across the moor to

the Sarsen area and a path leads North under the crag to the Northernmost section of Rictus

Smile. It’s best not to head directly to the Northern section as the moor can be quite boggy!

History

Despite occasional visits the crag was not developed in any detail until 2008 when Bob Smith and Steve Blake

established the majority of the existing problems. Their success was in no small part due to the extensive use

of stabiliser, the soft rounded features of the crag are suited , and respond well to it’s use and have trans-

formed it as a venue.

Notably Karl Telfer explored the crag back in the day and recorded several routes. The most difficult being

Touch and Go. Which in it’s original unstabilised state was extremely difficult. It’s possible some of the

‘recently’ recorded problems/routes were climbed by him in this period but not recorded.

Many of the problems at this excellent venue have only had one or two ascents, but all have been repeated.

That said some may need a gentle clean before trying them. A short rope and some dog stakes will facilitate

the cleaning of the higher problems.

There are a number of outstanding highball problems on the crag; Cowboy Up!, and A Deficit of Funk both

have awkward finishes, with Audrey Hepburn a close third. (Though in the latter’s instance it is possible to

‘nest’ in the cleft. )

A number of unclimbed lines remain, some are very obvious, some very high , most likely to be very hard.

Though there are some easier pickings to be had by the diligent enthusiast.

This is quite a porous crag and should be avoided if it has rained in the past week. Many of the prob-

lems have been treated with masonry stabiliser, but, sloppy footwork and over enthusiastic brushing

could still overwhelm it. Please tread lightly.

Tim Blake

The Approach Boulders (below where the

panorama above was taken)

Steve Blake Collection

The Sarsen

The Rune Stone

The Megalith

The Brain

Rictus Smile

Cowboy Up!

The Beautiful South

The Warm Up

Poets Corner

N S The Medici

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Caller Crag ... ...The Medici Area Caller Crag ...The Medici Area

1 2

1. The Medici. 7b (ish) MW. Traverse left to right on pockets. Bizarrely difficult.

2. The Voice . 6c/7a. BS. Sit Start. Using pockets make a hard slap for the shoulder.

The Medici was one of the first problems in the County to be stabilised. It was a long term project for Bob who tried

it off and on over a number of years. Martin Waugh eventually tamed it. Much more difficult than it appears.

Martin Waugh

Indian Summer

Caller South

Steve Blake Collection

Guidebooks need pictures, if you visit the venues in

these guides and take photos of folks on the prob-

lems, then please send them to me. If they are suit-

able I’ll include them in the guide, with all due cred-

its. Please identify the problem and climber. Even

better if it is a new problem, get a photo and de-

scription to me. Via Callercrag@btinternet.com

Martin Waugh

Indian Summer

Steve Blake Collection

David Murray

A Deficit of Funk

Steve Blake Collection

Katy Whittaker tussles with

A Deficit of Funk

Dan Varian Collection

Katy Whittaker

Exploring Caller

Dan Varian Collection

10 11

Caller Crag ... ...Poet’s Corner Caller Crag ...

5

6

4. The Unknown. 6a. BS. Sit start, pulling up and right to the arête.

5. The Far Country. E2 6a. KT. A well protected route just left of the cave. Climb the runnels to the roof and pass

it with difficulty via the flake crack.

6. Summer Lightning. E1 5b. KT. Start on the left of the buttress. Follow flakes rightwards to the overhang, move

left to a rib to finish.

7. The Underworld. 6b. BS. A worthwhile left to right traverse of the lower sloping break.

These two routes, along with Touch and Go were established and recorded by Karl Telfer when he lived locally.

Karl recalls doing ’other stuff’ but never recorded it in detail, some of the problems on the crag may have had earli-

er ascents.

The cave at Caller is home to a poem by JP Askey—The Brown Man of Caller

Crag. It was also home to my ladder for a while, but I think the farmer took it!

3

3. The Spine. 6b. BS. From a sit start with your

right pinky in a slot, heave up to the shoulder and

then the top. 7

4

12 13

Caller Crag ... ...Cowboy Up! Caller Crag ... ...The Whipped Cream Wall

8

10

9 Cowboy Up!

The leaning, flared and rounded crack

saves it’s crux to the very end.

8. Cowboy Up! 7a(ish). SB

Standing start. Get established in the crack

layaway, but predominantly jam to a very

precarious exit. The only comfort is, you’re

not as high as you think you are.

The wall left of Cowboy Up has some beautiful

curves that are exploited by two problems; Rasp-

berries and Cream.

9. Cream. 7a/7a+ . BS. Standing start. Pull into

the large pod like hold, and swim to the top. Fan-

tastic! When Cream was first done a small iron-

stone nodule provided a decent foothold, low

down. It didn’t survive and sadly couldn’t be re-

paired….. It was redone without.

Dan Varian’s sit start weighs in at a mighty 7c!

8

Cowboy up is a compelling and beautiful line

formed such that it flares, overhangs and

leans rightward. While the bottom is difficult,

the crux is at the top where the hands run out

and some precarious footwork is required .

At the time of writing there may have been

only one repeat, arguably the most difficult

crack in the County.

10. Raspberries. 6c. SB. Tasty, but overshadowed by the quality of it’s neighbours.

Step off the earthy ramp and travers diagonally right to a high junction with Cream.

When Cream was first done an ironstone nodule provided a decent foothold, low

down. It didn’t survive and sadly couldn’t be repaired….. It was redone without

14 15

Caller Crag ... ...The Little Wall Caller Crag ... ...The Brea king Wave

13 14

15 16

Several problems were established on the Breaking Wave section by Bob Smith.

All are similar in that they finish with heinous mantles that press out above a sizable rounded overhang.

13. Western Roll. (?). BS.

14. Swiss Roll. (?). BS.

15. Hyper. 6b . BS. Sit start. Pull up and exit slightly right.

16. The Elephant’s Arse. 6b+. BS. Sit Start. Climb the crack through the obvious nose to an awkward top out.

11

12

The Elephant’s Arse

Steve Blake

Mark Savage Photography

To the left of Raspberry's’ is a leaning red

wall. Just beyond this is, The Little Wall

The Little Wall has two lines on it, both are

just right of centre.

11. Whodunnit? 6c. SB/BS.

12. The Major. 6c BS/SB.

16 17

Caller Crag ... . ..Rictus Smile Caller Crag ... ...The Altar - Stone

19 22 23

24

20

17. Slip Slap. 6b+. BS. Sit Start. Palm up the blunt arête.

18. Crescent Moon. 6b+. BS. Sit Start. Using the crescent shaped hold pull up into a diagonal crack then the shoulder.

19. The Rictus Smile. 7a. SB. Sit start under the cleft follow the sinuous break rightwards, finish up the shoulder.

20. Body Blow. 6b . BS. Nice moves. Sit Start. Pull up from holds just above the pot hole brings the horizontal break into

reach. (An extension to Rictus Smile also starts here, this increases the grade a bit.)

21. One in the Eye. 6b. BS. Accurate popping is required to hit the slender sloping break.

22. The Sickle. 6b. BS. Sit start. With your left hand in the crack and right hand in a hole/slot, pull up to a small flake and

mantle

23. The Druid. 6b. BS. With your right hand fingers in the crack and left hand in a shallow pocket, a hard pull leads to a

difficult mantle.

24. The Altar-Stone. 6b+ . BS. Sit start. Start just left of the arête on a small flake. Traverse right on layaways to finish on

a flake.

25. The Arete. (?) (?). The arête from a sit start.

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17

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Bob Smith

On Rictus Smile

Bob Smith Collection

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