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CAREChemistry

CAREChemistry

•120,000 to 150,000 – the number of hairs on a full head of hair.

•250 – the number of hairs per square centimeter on the scalp

•1.3 grams or .0459 0unces (think of hair color ounces) – the weight of 1 cm of hair

•5 to 200 grams – average weight of a full head depending upon the length

•30% of it’s own weight – the percentage of weight in water the hair in good condition can absorb (this includes humidity…)Wow! Have you looked at the weather today?

•1cm per month – the speed hair grows. 12cm = 5inches…so for every 5 inches of hair a person has it is 1 year old!

•50 to 100 – The number of hairs we naturally loose each day

•50% of it’s length – the amount a single strand can stretch (healthy) before it breaks! Think of poor Repunzel.

The circle of life: Our very independent strands..

Anagen – Hair Grows and multipliesan average of 3 years but may last

a few months to ten years.*pregnant women are stuck here for 9 months!

Telogen – Loss of hair lasting about 2 to 3 months.*Chemotherapy?

Catagen – Bulb detachment (death) lasting about 3 weeks.

Latent – Between 2 and 5 months nothing happensAnd then…a new Anagen phase begins. Assuming

the follicle is being stimulated.

Around the world

Asian hair has the record for growth at 1.3 cm a month. But is has much less thickness than any of the other ethnic groups.The follicle makes the hair to grow straight, perpendicular to the scalp.

African hair - is the slowest growing of all, at less than 0.9 cm a month. It is a little thicker than Asian hair and grows almost parallel to the scalp, twisting around itself as it grows (Curls).

Caucasian hair in in between the other two at 1.2 cm a month,but it has the highest density of all. It grows at an oblique angle to the scalp and is slightly curved.

*It’s all about how it grows out!

•Keratin – Protein formed by 18 Amino acids which happen to be the building block of our hair, without it our hair would not grow in the beginning. However, once our strands are “full” it moves on. Check this out..http://www.hair-science.com/_int/_en/topic/topic_sousrub.aspx?tc=ROOT-HAIR-SCIENCE^PORTRAIT-OF-AN-UNKNOWN-ELEMENT^SUPERB-CHEMISTRY&cur=SUPERB-CHEMISTRY

Bonds – 4 Keratin chains that form different shapes*think of Ramen noodles or ropesThere are a couple of other weak bonds that keep us from having perfectlocks all the time. Those in simple terms are the water and air bonds that areweak…Go figure. This is why we dye, fry and blow dry to set the “weak” bonds.

Lipids –Oil from our glands.*without it our hair will become dry and damages but too much of a good thing can be bad.

Sterol and Ceramid – Alcohol that is found in the Animal Kingdom. For example: Cholesterol, Vitamin D and Steroids.

Protein Vs. Moisture

Stretches a little more than normal then breaks, feels like mush or feels gummy, protein is needed!

Protein: Rebuilds the bonds (Cera Repair treatment)

Moisture: Adds water thus swelling the cuticle (Deep Conditioning)

*No Heat

Does not stretch, feels dry, brittle and breaks easily

*Use a cap and dryer

Balancing• The acid mantle- Every human has a thin layer of oil and sweat which is secreted by glands found in our skin and hair follicles.This layer helps protect us from invading bacteria, dirt and water. It also has a pH or potential Hydrogen factor of 4.5 to 5.5. This number is important to remember because we affect it with the services we do. Our hair and skin like to maintain that balance, which is slightly acidic.

•The acid mantle keeps the cuticle layer tight and compact.When the hair is covered by the mantle it is at it’s Strongest point…so it seems like keeping hair covered with the Acid Mantle would be a no brainier, right!?!

•What happens when we shampoo our hair? Water has a pH of 7, that's approximately 100 times more alkaline that our acid mantle. Then we add shampoo, which contain surfactants and it strips the oil, dirt and product out of our hair and off of our scalp.

•Now what??? Our cuticle layer is no longer protected by the acid mantle- we've added water and scrubbed it off- the cortex starts to swell and stretches the cuticle layer out. Each time we shampoo our hair we put it in a delicate state.

•If the products used on the hair are not acid balanced, the cortex swells and the cuticle stretches allowing changes to take place. The most notable change is the change in color,especially if you have color treated hair. The ends fade quickly and tangle easily. 

I’m Neutral or want to be!AcidSubstance with a pH less than 7. Opposite to "alkaline Closes CuticleAlkalineSaid of a substance which has the properties of a "base", i.e. having a pH greater than 7. Opens Cuticle

pHIf the pH is less than 7, the solution is acidic. If it is equal to 7, it is neutral. If it is

greater than 7, it is alkaline.

Itchy Scalp: Lemon or Lime juice and Vinegar.

Dry: Olive Oil and Coconut Oil

*(When Wet or Dry) Stretches slightly and returns to its original length without breaking, you are balanced!

Sulfate What?

Sulfate – Detergent used to strip the hair of oils.

Surfactant – Same group otherwise known as Sulfactants

Positive reasons to use a Sulfactant:

Negative reasons to use a Sulfactant:

(chemicals that have a water loving-hydrophyllic end and an oil loving or lipophyllic end)

What are your favorites and why?

Curly:

Straight:

Smoothing:

Moisture:

Demineralizing (Cleansing):

Problem Solving:

Favorites:

T or F Cutting ends makes hair grow faster.

Under emotion Hair can actually turn white overnight.

The female hair is different than a males.

Natural Appearance determines someone's mood and personality.

Diet affects hair growth.

Cocunut Oil will help my itchy scalp.

Sulfate Free shampoo will save my color.

Demineralizing will help a chemical service.