FACTORS TO CONSIDER IN ESTABLISHING A VINEYARD

BY: ROBERT E. PLAISTER

U.C. Farm Advisor in Amador County

Successful new vineyards require considerable investigative work and planning. A systematic approach is needed so that the proper timing for each step of the developmental process is carried out.

Before planting a vineyard on an unknown site, you need to determine:

--Is the climate suitable for the wine varieties you selected? --Is the soil adequate to support a good producing vineyard? --Does the site have an adequate supply of irrigation water? --What was the success of previous crops grown at this site? --Are there any biological problems present? --Economic considerations

Climatic Considerations

Most commercial wine grape vineyards are above 1000 feet and usually below 2000 feet. Vitis vinifera varieties require a warm, dry summer of sufficient length to ripen the fruit, and a relatively wet winter sufficiently cold to give the vine a dormant period of at least two or three months. Light is not normally a limiting factor in California but temperatures can be.

Factors to consider in site selection are:

--Length of the growing season. It requires 200 frost free days to mature the fruit.

--Heat summation during the period of bud break to fruit maturity must be adequate. This will vary a great deal among varieties.

--Selecting the proper variety for a given temperature region is important if quality wines are to be produced.

--Winter temperatures below 20°F will result in winter kill, especial-ly with varieties that don't mature their wood.

--Spring frosts following bud break can destroy the crop. Temperature of 26°F or lower for a very short duration will kill all green shoots, flower clusters, and even buds that are partly open. In areas where spring frosts are a hazard, usinn properly designed solid set sprinklers can give from 3° to 5°F protection.

--Heat injury can result in crop loss by shrivel and drying of berries or entire clusters. Good pruning, adequate trellises, and good irrigation practices all tend to keep vines vigorous and to reduce damage from sunburn and heat injury.

Information on climatic factors can be found in "Climatological Data", published monthly by the U.S. Department of Commerce.

2

Soil Evaluations

The most common physical soil properties affecting root development and limiting growth of vines are soil depth; soil structure; restric-tive zones such as hardpan layers, plow soles, and interfaces (an abrupt change in soil texture); water logging; and water tables.

Soil information can be found in Soil Surveys-Amador Area Calif., which is available at the farm advisor's office. By locating a given property on the soil map, you can determine types of soils at the proposed planting site. Soil maps contain information on depth, texture, slope, erosion, surface and subsurface drainage, detailed description of each soil type, depth of rooting, and best crop utilization. A Storielndex of 35 is required.

After checking a soil map, then dig about 20 backhoe pits to verify the accuracy of the survey map. Backhoe pits and close examination of the soil profile can determine the following:

--Depth of soil to restrictive layers (claypans, hardpans, silt layers, interfaces, plow soles, sandy lenses, etc.)

--Depth of roots from existing crops or native vegetation --Determine if modification is necessary or if it is possible --Presence of a high water table --Presence of water - logging conditions

Collecting soil samples for laboratory analyses can be done

-easily when the pits are open. Samples should be taken at one foot intervals throughout the root zone. Have a reliable soil laboratory run analyses to determine pH, total salts (ECe) and boron, sodium, and chloride levels. Ask the Farm Advisor if this is necessary.

For more soil information refer to Leaflet 2946 "How to Appraise Soil Physical Factors for Irrigated Vineyards".

Irrigation Water Availability

Vineyards below 1000 feet in Amador County require supplemental water applied during the growing season. The amount of irrigation water needed in general can be stated as follows:

--Irrigation requirement equals evapotranspiration minus effective rainfall plus irrigation losses

Evapotranspiration (ET) is the water actually used by the vines and through evaporation from the soil surface. Factors that influ- ence ET rates are:

--Atmospheric conditions (temperature, wind, and hours of daylight) --Stage of growth (less growth, lower the ET) --Total leaf area (the more vigorous the variety, the larger the

leaf canopy, the greater the ET) --Age of vine --Spacing of vines --Root condition (nematode or phylloxera infestation cuts back on

vigor, less ET)

2

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Irrigation losses refer to water that leaches below the active root zone, that which runs off, and water used by weeds.

Irrigation requirements will vary considerably between viticultural districts. Usually the cooler the area and the higher the rainfall the less irrigation water is needed.

An irrigation supply should be adequate to provide enough water during the peak vine usage period. Usually this is the month of July, where daily needs can be as much as .33 acre-inches. An irri- gation delivery system should be designed to cover peak use. If frost protection using solid-set sprinklers is necessary, then the supply needed is 50 gallons per minute (GPM) per acre. For example, an 80-acre vineyard will need an output of 4,000 GPM.

Wells used for irrigation should be checked for output and pumping plant efficiency. P.G. & E. customers can have wells checked free of charge.

Water quality should be checked prior to planting and before an irrigation method is determined. Pumps should run for about 1/2 hour before collecting a water sample. Collect about one quart of water in a clean glass container. Have it analyzed by a laboratory for pH, total salts (ECw), sodium, chloride, nitrate-nitrogen, carbonates, bicarbonates, and boron.

Previous Crop History.

Observation of other crops growing on land of the proposed vineyard site can give valuable clues as to problem areas. If crop shows of poor growth and low production, find out why. Determine what the problem is and if it can be corrected.

Problems can vary. Some possibilities are soil problems, poor drainage, salt problems, water-logging, nutritional deficiencies or excesses, diseases, nematodes, etc.

A sick perennial crop or oak trees can be infected by the disease Armillaria mellea (oak root fungus). If present, remove and burn in place as many infected roots as possible and fumigate prior to leveling or before any other soil movement. Don't spread this disease over the entire acreage.

Biological Problems

Determine what biological problems exist before planting a vineyard.

Nematodes, phylloxera, oak root fungus, and perennial weeds are all biological factors that will have an impact on yield reduction, quality deterioration, and reduced profits.

--Phylloxera are tiny, yellow-green to yellowish-brown root aphids that feed on new rootlets and destroy the root system. Phylloxera

3

is more of a problem in the heavier loams to clay soils; however, they have caused damage in some sandy loam soils. If adjacent

vineyards are phylloxerated or if phylloxera is a general pest in

the area, then resistant rootstocks should be used. For more

information, refer to U.C. publication, Circular 566 "Insect Grape Pests of Northern California" and to Leaflet 2780 "Grape Rootstock Varieties" or U.C. Publication 4105 "Grape Pest Manage- ment, May 1981". Use Ropestris St. George Strain 15.

--Oak root fungus (Armillaria mellea) - Dead or dying trees or vines

should be checked for oak root fungus disease. Look for whitish

to cream colored mycelia] growth under the bank next to the wood

on older roots. Roots on dead vines will have a water-soaked,

decayed appearance, with an odor of mushrooms. Infected plants

should be pulled and burned in place. Remove as many of the

roots as possible. Fumigate before any land leveling, ripping,

or other land preparations are attempted. For more information, see Circular 525 "Armillaria Root Rot of Deciduous Fruits, Nuts, and, Grapevines."

--Weeds affect vines primarily through competition for water, nutrients, and in some cases, sunlight. The perennial weeds

cause the biggest problem in establishing a vineyard. These include

field bindweed (morning glory), bermudagrass, Johnson grass, and

yellow or purple nutsedge. Eliminate these problems before planting.

--Virus diseases will be no problem in first generation vineyards if certified virus-free planting stock is used. Before replanting

a second generation vineyard, check the old vineyard prior to its removal for virus diseases. Have someone familiar with viruses look for symptons prior to bloom and again in early fall before harvest. If fanleaf, vein banding, or yellow mosaic (the fanleaf complex) are found, then rotation to another crop may be desir-able. These viruses are soil-borne and spread by the nematode Xiphinema index. New plantings can become infected by these viruses if this nematode is present. Obtain professional advice

if these conditions exist.

Further information on virus diseases can be found in the text book, "Virus Diseases of Small Fruit and Grapevines," published by the University of California, Division of Agricultural Sciences.

Economic Considerations

--Explore the market potential and determine where you will market before planting. "Have a home for your grapes." Varieties to be planted should be discussed and approved by the winery you will sell to. Ask for the current cost study.

--Arrange for financing. A budget and cash flow chart should be developed so that adequate capital will be available when needed for each step of development. University of California sample cost sheets will be helpful in drawing up a budget and projected cash flow sheets.

VINEYARD DEVELOPMENT

The Preparation Years

Below is a check list of tasks to be done a year or more before planting a vineyard.

/ / Backhoe - Determine suitability of the soil for grape production.

/ / Determine your market outlet and varieties to be planted.

/ / Survey the vineyard site.

/ / Make a scale drawing of the proposed new vineyard. It should include:

--Direction of rows, usually east to west is best --Row and vine spacing (determined by variety, expected

vine vigor, and training method used) --Row lengths. --Picking avenues and roadways --Irrigation delivery system --Drainage system (if needed) --Loading area

/ / Order vines from nursery. If rooted vines, rootstocks, or dormant bench grafts are to be used, order them 15 to 18 months before planting.

Observe the vineyard from which you are going to obtain cuttings or budwood for crop level, fruit quality, and abnormal foliage symptoms (viruses). If possible, obtain certified propagation wood.

/ / Design irrigation system (and drainage system if needed).

/ / Check dead or dying vines or trees for oak root fungus disease.

I Clear the site. Remove old vines, trees, rocks, and shrubs. / / Control perennial weeds.

/ / Rip the soil in two directions. Do this when the soil is dry (fall). You may have to plant a crop to dry the soil out before you rip or slip plow.

/ Develop water source. Drill and develop wells where needed. Drip or sprinkle is usual method

/ / Deep plow.

S3

/ / Install drainage system (if needed).

/ / Install irrigation system.

/ / Plant cover crop to prevent erosion on hillsides (if needed).

/ / Install deer or rabbit fences. This is mandatory in many areas.

/ / Lay out and plant vineyard in spring after frost hazard is past.

Adapted from the "Preplanting Decisions in Establishing a Vineyard" by: James J. Kissler U.C. Farm Advisor in San Juaquin County

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10

14521 13201 12101

1089 1990 j 90 8_

871 1 792 1 726 I 726 i 660 1 605

Plant Population Index NUMBER OF FEET BETWEEN ROWS

11 3

48401

3630 j

29041 5

6 24201 NUMBER

7 OF FEET 20741 BETWEEN

VINES 1815 1 L 8

4 5 6.

36301 29041 2420

2723] 2178 1 1815

21781 17421 1452

1815 14521 1210

7 8 9 I

20741 18151 1613

1556] 1361] 1210

1245 968

10371 908 j 807 cc

15561 1245 1037 889 1 778 1 691 622 566 519 (.-1

13611 1089 908 778 681 1 605 545 1 495 I 454 _I

9 J 16131 12101 968 1 807 691 1 605 1 538 1 484 1 440 _I 403 I 5

14521 10

1320) 11

12101 12 i

10891 871 1 726 622 1 545 1 484 436j 396 363]

99_1 792 I 660 566 1 495 1 440 396 1 360 1 330 I

908 1726 I 605 519j 454] 403J 363 I 330 1 303 I

VINES /ACRE

(-CUT ABOVE 2nd BUD

(-GRAFT UNION 10-12" FROM BOTTOM

(-CUT OFF SIDE ROOTS

(-TRIM TIPS OF ROOTS

(-STALE

(-SPUR FACING STAKE

( -GRAFT UNION 4-6" ABOVE SOIL LEVEE

-HOLE

( -SPREAD ROOTS AT BOTTOM OF HOLE

SONOMA GRAPEVINES, INC. 1919 DENNIS LANE SANTA ROSA, CA 95403 (707) 542-5510 FAX (707) 542-4801

SONOMA GRAPEVINES, INC. (FRESNO) 13011 S. JAMESON AVENUE BURREL, CA 93607 (209) 866-5408 FAX (209) 866-0305

DORMANT VINE PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS

WARMING-UP PERIOD Because the vines have been stored near freezing for a long period of time, the vines must be warmed-up for several days to minimize shock and activate the vines. To warm-up the vines, remove them from cold storage 3-10 days before planting. Store the vines in a shaded area, out of the sun, at room or ambient temperature. Untie and open the plastic bags or liners, or poke large holes in the plastic bags for aeration. Vines in individual plastic bags take from 3 to 5 days, and 7-10 days for vines stored in bins. You may decide to pull the vines out of the plastic bags and store them in moist sawdust from 5-10 days. In any case, keep the sawdust moist. Placing old, wet blankets, or burlap sacks over the sawdust helps to keep them moist.

WARNING: By not following warm up procedures, vines will go into shock and may grow

poorly or not recover. Be sure to also protect your head from direct sunlight while planting. Wear your vintage dated Sonoma Grapevines collector's cap.

STEP 1 This step consists of trimming the main roots, cutting off the lateral roots, and pruning the shoots back to a two-bud spur on the dormant vines. THIS STEP HAS BEEN COMPLETED BY SONOMA GRAPEVINES, but it's important to double check for suckers or buds that may have remained on the vine. Completely remove any suckers that may have been found before planting.

STEP 2 At planting time, dig a hole 18-20 inches deep. Place the vine in the hole. Position the vine close to the stake, with the spur facing the stake. Spread the roots and begin filling the hole with soil (Don't use soil with herbicide residues). Pull the vine up slowly, adding soil as necessary, until the GRAFT-UNION stays at least 4-6 inches (roughly the width of the hand) above the soil level. Remember, the disturbed soil will settle. So, be sure the graft union remains at least 4" above ground level. This prevents the growth of scion roots at the graft-union. Also, make sure that the roots are positioned downwards and spread them on the bottom of the hole. Position the spur facing the stake. This facilitates the training and tying of the shoots.

When planting non-grafted rootstock rooting, facilitates the field budding operation, and There's a higher cambium activity on this side and a good budder will.a1ways try to place the

position the spur facing the stake. This it also increases budding productivity. of the vine during the first year or two, bud along the spur line.

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STEP 3: Soil must be mounded over the top of the planted vine. This maintains moisture around the spur and provides protection to the new shoots from frost, the sun, and the wind. The soil mound only needs to be 1/2" to 1" above the tip of the spur to provide enough protection. Too much soil may crust and get too hard or too heavy for the new shoots to come out of the soil. When this occurs, the shoots tend to curl and stay inside the mound. Eventually, the shoots may use up all their reserves and die. Be sure to loosen the top of the mound if it cakes up.

WARNING: Without a mound at planting, direct sunlight will cook and kill vines. Whole vineyards have been lost by not protecting the vines by mounding.

STEP 4: When substantial growth has begun to show through the soil mound, you should choose a cool, cloudy day to remove the soil mound. Gently cut off any visible scion roots that may have grown. Select the best shoot and cut off the others. Place a 1/4 or 1/2 gallon milk carton over the young vine and stake. Place soil around the base of the milk carton to hold it in place. Tie the shoot to the stake.

-..-NOTE: On non-grafted rootstock rootings, you may remove the soil mound and cut off any

crown roots, but you don't need to tie the shoots, nor place a milk carton over the vine.

TO HOLD IT IN PLACE STEP 5: When planting is finished, uncork some wine and invite everyone foe a toast to your future vintages. Continue this process throughout the life of the Idneyard to ensure the product is always being promoted!

Prune back to

one 2—bud spur

Second growing season

Lateral shoots removed on lower part of trunk

August—October

First winter

Shoot topped

Lateral shoots removed

May

Attach one

shoot to stake

Mid — April

June

TRAINING

Second growing season

Second winter

Third or fourth winter after pr uning after pruning

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Second growing season

Lateral shoots removed on lower part of trunk

August—October

First winter

Shoot topped

Lateral shoots removed

May June

Attach one shoot to stake

Mid—April

• __

Cut back

4 1 canes to where they are 3/8 inch thick

Second winter after pruning Third or fourth winter

TRAINING

Second growing season

Steps in developing a cordon-trained vine.

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DOMAINE CHANDON TRELLIS AND SPACING

VERTICAL SHOOT POSITION 1.5 meters cordon/vine

10ft (3m)

HIGH DENSITY SPACING 1.3m cordon/vine

6.5ft (2m)

•

46"

36"

22"

SCOTT HENRY TRELLIS 3m cordon+cane/vine

70"

55"

37"

22"

5ft (1.5m)

TE KAUWHATA 2 TIER 3m cordon/vine

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10ft (3m)

10ft (3m)

California:Arizona Farm Press Saturday, June 25, 1988

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Geneva Double Curtain (after pruning)

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Curtain Training

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Side view Single Double