ilstrwJlilEnqfrI

296

"[BU 0mr mnb hU eoweoqfcf:er.

Plnr II.Fnolr _calgary to Lagga, I had travcllecl i, the car of thcengine,'acco'rpa,ied by a victirnized official. perchecl on a litilefeather bench, r,vell ir.r fi'o,t, and crose to the srnall rvirdorvs,J lrad cnjoycd an cxc.cllc.rrt ol,rirorturrity of secirrg cverythirii.llesicles this, tr had gained a gr-eat cieai of usefui informatio]rabout engines, boilers, sigr.rals, &c., lvhich n-lay come in ,,ha1dy,,some day- Duri,g our stoppages the engineer a,cr firemen hacrnot failed to explain these tliings, a,cl i nua eve, ve,turecl torvhistlc " ca,tion ,' at _a

,, crossi,!.;, The sig,al ,r,.nt u"ry u,.11for a, arnateur, but the crrief's q-ri.l. "", hd cletectecl a rarter

a.rc1 at the ,ext halt he.s:nt l pere,rptory lressagc, crcsir.i,g rnJ"not to play tricks," rvrrich, acldr-essecl to i cliscrc.t rn:rtro.lrvasrcally quite insulting. r rracl cven q,cstirr.crl thc cra.i,ccr .rs totlic probable eflect of a bacl collision rvrrirc I occulriccr this post.I{c prornptll, sr-iggested-, ,, rrost likely J<illccl ;

,, ancl aclclecl,r'cflectivcly, as he carefully oilecl an alreaciy ciripltiug valve," rvhich n,onlcl bc a bad job ,,

!

Wiert f ernr.rouncecl m1z 61651'1.9 to travel o1 the corvcatcher,i\,Ir. E-- seemed to think that a vcry bacl ;ob i,rdc".i.--i;";ser.rsible, level-headed marl as he is, such an i,,ovation on allgeneral rules of, travelri'g crecorum was 1ro doubt very startli,g.He used mar-ry i,effectual ;,ersuasior-rs to i,duce rne to abando'the idca, ancl almost said I should not run so great a risk I butat 1ast, being a man of ferv rvords, ancl secing

"ti,r. ,uu, ne"rly

r-rp, hc so far reientccr as to ask rvhat I proposecr using as a seat.Glancing r:ound the station platfonn i Uln"ta ^ .,rltt empty

".^lrd1:.bg:" lying near", and aC once declared that r,vas,,just thethiug." Before Mr. tr-..-- coulcl expost,late further, I hacl:rsl<ecl a bral<esrn.n to placc tlie car-rcr1e'-box on the buffcr-beam,and n,as 6n my \\ray to the ,,Jamaica,, to ask the Chief,s

By Car tutr{ l1t Cozucalc/tcr. 297

permissiotl. The Chiefl seatecl on a lorv chair on t1're rear plat-form of the car, rvith a rug over his knees ancl a rragazine in hishand, looked very cornfortable and colrtent. I-Iealing nr1,

request, after a molnent's thought, he pror.rounced the iclca

" rather riclicuious," then remernbere d it rvas clangerous. as nrell,and finally asked if I u,as sure I cor-rld hoid on. Before theryords were 'rvell out of his lips, and taking permission forgrantecl by the question, I rvas again stancliug by the cou,-catcirer, adrniring the position of the candlc-box, ar-rd anxiouslyasl<ir-rg to be helped on.

Before I take my seat, 1et nle try, briefly, to describe the" Cotvcatcher." Of course ever)/ olle l<norvs thztt the buffer-beam is that narron,, heav1, iron platflonn, rvith the siclcs scoopeclout, as it rvcre, ou the very fore-front of the engirre ovcr ll.hichthe headlight glares, ancl in the comer of rvhich a 1itt1e flag isgenerally placed. In English engines, I belicve, the buflersproper project from tire front of this beam. In Canacliancugiues auother sort of attachmcnt is arrangecl, in-rmcdiatel1,belotv the bcam, by rvirich the cr-rgine can clran, trains bacl<n,arclsas r'vell as fonvarcls. The bearn is about eight feet across, at thetvidest part, ancl about three feet dcep. The description of acor,r,catcirer is less easy. Io begin rvith, it is misiramed, for itcatches no cows at all. Sornetimes, I tinderstancl, it throu,s r-rp

on the buf{er-beam rvhatever mairnccl or n.ranglecl anirr- al it hasstrucl<, but in most cases it clears tlie line by shoving fonvarcl,or tossir-rg asicle, any removable obstrnction. It is best clescribcclas a sort of barrecl iron bealr, abor-rt six feet 1ong, projectingclose over tire tracl< in a I shapc, and attachecl to the buffer-beam try rrery strong bolts. It is sornetimes sheathed ivitir thiniron plates in rvintcr, and acts thcn as a srnall snorv-p1ough.

Behoid rrle lrow) entirronecl on the carrdle-box, u,ith a softfelt hat rvell over lny eycs, and a linen carriagc-covcr tncl<eclround nre frotl uraist to foot. n[r. ]a- hacl seatcd himself or.r

the other side of the headiiglit. I-Ie liad snccumbed to theinevitable, ceased fnrther cxpostulatiou, clisciaimecl a1l resironsi-biiity, and, lilie the jeu,el of a Superintencicnt trre n,as, ltaddecicled on sharing my pcriM turn to irin"r, peeping round thelreadlight, r,vith rny bcst smile. " This is loae /1,," I triurnphantlyanltotlnce, seeing that a r,vord of comfort is necessaiy, " quitalouellt ; I shall travei on this corvcatcher fiom summit to sea ! "

Mr. Superintenclent, in his tllrn, pecps ronncl the heacllightancl sutveys me rvith solemn ar-rd resigned surprise. tt f-

298 By Car ant{ ly Cozucalcficr. By Car and 14t Co',ucatc/tcr. 299

in the rvild valley of the l(icl<ing Ilorse l{iver, on the rvestert't

slope of the Rocky Mountairts, a life irad goue out that day !

I dicl not tliink of clauger, or reuretnber rvhat a gidcly post

I hacl. I coulcl only gaze at the glaciers that the moutltairtsheld so closely, gooo feet above tts, at the trace of snoiv

avalauches whicir hacl ieft a space a hundred leet u'ide tnassed

rvith tour ancl prostrate trees; on the shadolvs that playecl

over the distant peal<s ; and ou a hunclred rainborvs macle

by the foaming, ciashing river, r'vhich srvirls rvith trerteudousrapiclity dotvn the gorge on its rvay to the Coh-rmbia in thcvalley beloiv.

Tliere is glory of brightness and beauty everytt'ltere, and Ilaugh aloud on the cowcatcher, just becanse it is all so

delightful i

lVe have left the North-lVest Territories, aud are uo$' in the?rovince of Britistr Columbia. Field-Ottertail-Leauchoilc flitpast us. Steam has been up for ten miles now ; \\re have leltthe I(icking Horse Pass behind us arld are glicling into the rvicle

Colurnbia Valley, full of rich, uerv beauty, of green tall u'avirlggrass aucl blue rvater. A lou,er lange o[ the Rockies, streal<ecl

and capped rvith snorv, stretches away oll either sicle. The road-rvay is very level, and the rails glcarn before us, narrolitlg in adistant point to a silver threacl. I hear tl-rc er-rgirrcer piiing infuel, and $,histle with shrillest note' Then, rvith trebly quicl<encd

pace, we dart along in the sttushine. For a seconcl only I feel

a quicl<ening of the heart-pulse, and a hot colour rtounts to m1'"

face, but it is gone iu a momeut, al-rcl I atll 11o11e the u'orse forthat " spurt " at the rate of fifty miles au hour.

Halted at Palliser. The Chief and his friends rvall<ecl up tothe cou,catcher to malie a morniltg ca1l. I fclt a little" supcrior " and 'n,as rather cor.rdescending. Somervhat flushecl

rvith excitcrnent, but still anxious to be politc, I asked " rvoulci

the Chief step up atld tal<e a drivc ? " To the horror of thebystattdcrs he carelcssly consentcd, aud iu another moment hadtaken thc place of Mr. E--, the lattcr seating hin-rself atour fcet on the buffer-bearn. There was a general consternatiouarlloug our little group of li'ier-rds and the ferv inhabitants ofPalliscr-thc Chief ru:;hing through the flats of the Columbiaolt a co\\'catcher I anr1, tt,orse still, possibly even amorrg tl-reu'ilcl Sclkirk Niountains-those tnountair-rs of rvhich scal'cclythrec years before, in his charming bool<, 'From old Westminsterto New,' rny friencl Mr. Sar-rdford Fleming hacl said, " no o1']e

sLlppose-y611-1yill," hs says slotviy, ancl I sce that he ishoping, at any rate, that I shall live to c1o it !

.JVi-ttr a rnighty snort, a terribly big throb, and a shriekingrvhistle, No. 324 moves slorvly foniarcl. The very smallpopulation of Laggan harre all come out to see. Tirey stancli, the hot s,rrshi.re, ancl shacre trreir eyes as the stately e,ginemoves on. " It is an arvful thing to c1o ! ,, f hear o u-oi." ,ry,as thc little group lean fonvard ; ancl for a rnoment I feel athrill

_ that is very like fear ; but it is gone at once, and I

can thirk of ,othiug but the ,ovelty, the exciterne.t, a,d thefun of this mad ricre ir-l grorious ..r,rrrri,." a,c] intoxicati,g air,rvith rlagnifice.t mou'rtairs before a,cr arounrl ,re, their ioftypeai<s srrilir.rg cloln on us, ancl ,ever a fro',n o, trreir grancJfaccs !

The pace cluici<ens gradr-rally, surely, srviftly, and then weare rushing up to the summit. We soon stancl on the ,, GreatDivide"-_53oo leet above sea-level-bctrveen the tu,o greatoceaus. As ure pass, Mr" tr---_ by a gcsture, points outa smali rir,-er (ca1lcc1 Bath Creck, I thinl<) rvhicl, issuingfrom ;r lal<e on tirc narrolv summit-level, rvincls near the tracl<.I look, ar-rcl 1o ! the *,ater; floivirg eastzuard torvarcls the Atla,ticsiclc, turns ir.r a. rnoment as the Divide is passccl, and pours-Lu€stzlard dorvn the pacific slope !

Another moment ancl a strange silence has fallen round us.With steam shut off and brakes c1orvr.r, thc 6o_ton enginc,

ly iI orvn rveight and impetus alone, gliclcs into tire pai ofthe I(icl<ing I-Iorse ll-iver, and begins ri clcsccnt of zgoo feeti, t*,clve miles. \,Ve rush orl,,,nid through thc vast valleystrctchilrg before rrs, bristling rvith lofty forcsts, darl< and:leep, .

tha.t, clinging to the mor-rntain -siclc, arc- reared upinto the sky. 'Ihe rivcr, rviclening, grows rvhitc rvith clashingfo;,n, a,d rushes clorv.rvzrrds ,uiltlr" tr.rr"rrclous force. Sun_light . flashes olt glaciers, into gorges, ancl athr.vart huge,

tor'veri,g_masses of Locl< cro*,recl *rviiir

mag,ificc,t tr." .r.it,that risc all rou.cl us of every size ard srrape. r3reatrrless

-aLnost a*'e-stricker-but rvitir a rvircr triu,rph i, my heart,I look frorn farthest mountain peal<, liftecl ti;gt U"for. *.,to the .sliining pebbles at niy feei ! Wann rvinll rushes past ja thousand sunshine colour.s dance in the air. With a firmright. hand-_grasping tire iron stanchion, and my feet planteclotr the buffcr beam, there u,as uot a yarcl of that descentin u,hicli I faltered for a moment. If i had, then assurecily

300 By Cat' atzd 01, Cozucatc/tq..

has bcen through the rve.stenr slope ol the Selkirl<s,,I Everyot'tc is horrifiecl. It is a comfort to trre other occupa.t of thebuffe r to fincl somc olte else rvilful, a,d as u,e stearnecl arvaytoivarcls Dorald, at the easte,r base of trrc selr<irrcs, tr fert ,ot sobad after ali !

The Colunrbia Valley is rrery channing, heavy clumps of treesbreal<ing its cool, gre"n surfa.e. A quiJ littlc paradisc it lookr,l,virrg claspccl betl'een trvo ruou,tai. ra,ges. .Ihe

Col,mbiaIl-iver, saici to be rzoo miles 1ong, rises in the ffr.i.i*, p^.r*through tiie leve1s betrvecu the" trvo rnountain rangcs, aqdfi,alIy florvs -seq1l1*,ard i,to America, territory. It is crossedb), thc C. I,. R. nine or ten timcs.

, Our clays norv begin to seem ,,alt,ays in the aftemoou.,, Werlave gatued threc hours si.rce arrivi.g at lrort Artrrnr, o. theeastern e,ci of l-al<e Superior ; a,cl r,y travellir.rg clock, rvhichis still Ottarva tinre, is ,or" tirrce iro,rs s1orv. It ,rn, set bycastertt stardarcl time, rvhicrr c-xte,ds to port Arthr-rr. centrarstatrdard timc is thcn i. usc, ivith its acldecl hour, for 694 rnilesto llroaclvien,. There, b), ,nountain stanclarcl time, tve gain:Luothcr hour, and cnjoy it for 759 miles to Donalcl. At Doialdn'c leel our lives are perccptibly lengthening by the arrival oiPacific sta,darcl tirne, ivhicli gi,r., .,, a ,, last hour ,, u'til

',ercach the sczr.

lJut still further iibcrtics havc bcen talicrr u,ith olcl FatherTirne, hitherto co,sicrerecr so i.exor:rblc. 1)iscarcling the oid-f:tshio,red r\.x,r. a,cl r,.;rt. thc o1,6cials ancl tirnc_tablcs of tlieCanadian I'acific count their hours as nunrbcrs go, so thatr I']'lI' is Tirirtec, o'clocl<, 2 p.r{. Fourtcc. o'crocl<-reacrrir..r'l-*,e.rty-four o'clock at ,ricl,ight. It is ,r"ry ounr",ri"rr, lrJi"i.lrorc cr<jlressivc than,thc orcl figures, t,hicrr obligc r-ruc to stopa,cl thi'k-is it .ro,rirrg or cverring? But I *ust corfcss the'J^amaica's " cool<, littlelohn, roo|l<ci crecideclry asto,isrrccl *,rre,I fir-.st orderccl cliuner at shar! zo o,clocl<.

,, ,o..".ut_" for our party an unintcrruptccl vierv of tire country

through rvhich the canadian pacific porr.. from \,vinnipcs- ;Varcouvcr, arrargelrelrts hacl bee u rnacle by rvhich otr: SpJ.i"lrcmai^cd statio,ary at r-right. rt rvas also lii'clly rnaragecl trrata Superi,te,clert ah'ays travellecl rvitrr us, ancl thougrr-we hacr:;orron,fully partcd rvith l\{r" E*- at J)onalcl, he iraJbeen rvell

'tirla6q,l, arrd lris s'cccssol' agrcc<l to olrl-pla, of travciling fr-our8 r\.x,I. to 8 p.xr. Alr carly cup of tea lefi us goocl appctiies fora very substa'rtial brcai<fast at rr.3o, cl,rirg

",, lio.,.,s halt,

By Car atct{ 14,, Cozucalcfier.. _ 301rvhen the raihvay " ha'c1s " cli,ccl at some statio, to rvhich trrcirsupplies had been telegraphccl for, or 1i.o'r their o\\rli conr_missariat arrarlgeme^ts i, the baggage car. r3etrvccn 5 arci6.o'clock lve allays ma*agecl t" tJrt for afternoo" t.r, rrrarvhen comfortably settlecl o, a .sidi,.q ior tire ,;gt t, air,r". ,uo,anno_unced about 8.3o- Our small porter, r*,ho, lhorgh irardiyfive feet high, rvas fuil of energy ani skill, kept the i.frf"

""r,rvell provided. He foragecl for supplies o,, "u"ry o..orior, ,u".

alrvays greatly distressecl lvlren anything laclieci, "na

."qu;r"aconsolatio. insteacl of reproof rvrien rnatiers \,vent \r.rong i, tirccooking departrnent.

To resume the journey. Our clestination to_night is Revei_stolre, at the ryeste'r ba.se of the Selkirlis, TS rr-,;t.. frorr-,Donald at thc eastern base. Torvarcls Revelstol<e \ve arcnow_travelling, and as tire train nears the valley or pass byivhich the mour:tairs are e,terecr, rve fi,d their tor.vering i.,,ii,r.., -ir.r -sorne degree obscured by the smol<e of forest nri, ,ut,i.t ,orvi,g to the u,nsrialry dry seaso.r, rrave burne.t ,n.t

".t."J ior-to1n" iveel<s past. The spad; from a passing engine, a" Smuclge " or small .smoky fir.e, lit by raihvay laboirrers ?; I*";oFf mosquitoes, or a neglectecl .rmp_fi.e, spr:eacls so raoiclIvamong the brushrvood, tu.igs, ancl fallc, Icaucs i,, tt,"."'uo.]tforests, that large tracts of rnag'ifice,t rvooclland

"r. .r..t.oy".ti. a short tirne, a'cl the atinosprrere becomes smoky ar-rcl clu1lfor rnilcs ancl miles arouncl.Leaving the north brarrch of tire Columbia u.e strilie sharply

rvcstu,ard, and e'ter the ,, Beaver,, pass, rvhich leacls torrrr.t. iii"summit of the Selkirk Range. A prospect rvilclly _rgn;n.",rilies belore us as \\,e asce,d. Imp.essions formed on a" b,ffer-bcam arc difficult to convcy ; I ilrnost clespair. of convcyirrr.tni,e. I'ragi,c th,,cleri,g

-oiorg upon tfr" ?ror,

".,l',."ii,,.riengine,i, the heart of a stupencloris mou.tainra.ge! Flurclreli'gL feet above us, forest-coverecl ireights torver granclly; forcst_fillcd valleys lie hn,dreds of feet b.iorv. Lookiirg ,,1rr-a. -.,.rbeyond these masses of darkly rvooclecr mountains, I see near ,reglaciers glittering in sunlight, incl ranges of cliffs, streal<ecl, ,,i;p;.ior outli,ed rvitir snorv around them. Looking far arvay #1;,;ancl stiil onrvard, I see tracr<ress vailcys stretch-ing to the su.sctbetrvce, gi gantic mou, taiu s-the soft iftern oon liltt cri mso, i n-qthe mist that floats about them. In the sky, on every side risc tallserrated peaks, frorn rvhich glaciers slope ancl pin,acles gleamrvith strarrge, ur.rearthly beauty. A, itr" trairi rvincls .ilr;i;;

302 Ry Ctrr arut{ blt Cozucalc/rct .

rc-,unc1 tire rnountair-r .siclcs, aln,a)rs aiong a stcep precipicc, evetypossiblc scnsc of fear is lost in u'onder and dciight"

\Ve arc now 5ooo lcct above thc sca-ievel, in ll-ogers' Pass-so cailcd lrorn thc cliscovcrcr, Major ltogers. His explorations,carriccl otr ottl1, about fiye or six years ago arnici ilcredibleharclships, and l,ith r-utclaunteci persevcraltce, proveci that apracticaLrlc pass 1ccl from the valleys of thc l_lcaver and a smallstrcarn called the Bcar orrer the sumrnit of tlic Scll<irlts, andclon,n thc u.estcni slope through the vallcy of tlie Iile-cillc-l,aetllivcr. I'crhaps r-ro part of thc line is more extraordinary, ascvincirrg claring cr.rginccring skil1, than this Pass, rl,here theroacl-bed cllrvcs ir loops ovcr trcstlc-bridges of immcnse height,at the sarnc time rapidly clesccnding. In six rnilcs of actualtravcllir.rg thc trair-r only advances trvo ancl half miles, solrLrrrcrous zrre the rvinclings nccessary to gct through thiscall)/o11.

As I sit iooliing fonvarcl clou,n the Pass I can scc long trestle_br-idgcs l--,clo*. arrd _r'ct o, a /ittc * itlr tlrc ouc \\.e :t'c crossiug atthe rlroment ! Tlicy shorv abovc thc forest, sharply distinct, solar bclo*', that for a rnoment my lic.rt bc:rts cluiclily a.s I fccl thebral'es tigl-rten, ancl the cngiuc bcar orr rvitlr iL rluict, stcady,siorvcr rr-rsh ronnrl arrcl clou,n ;rncl ovcr, t,hilc I lool< througir tlicl-rcstlc-beams ir-rto the hurryirg fo;r,r of *,atcrs r5o fcct bcrolr

Ovcr Surltrisc Creel< thc trcstlc is r8o fcct high, but I pccpeclclo*.., into it cluite lruco,ccrrcclly, n.t rvithout a certainsatisfaction to fir.rrl I had such a ,, gootl hcacl.,, At StoneyCreel; thc trestle is 286 feet above a rriost glor.ior,rs r.avine" TheciTcci rvas ircre nruch hcightcnccl lry lrugr:, virl)oury srnol<c-cloudslrangi,g ir.r fa,tastic .shapcs about tlrc i,rrrrcrsc vallcy, ancr accrtair.r vagllelress of clistant rnisty outlinc u,lriclr, in the larmtendcr cvcning light, t'as inexprcssibly beautifr.rl. At no spotclid rve find anythirs rnorc rrag'ificent tha, thc vicrv before us;rt Stoney Crcel<. Truth compcls rr-ic to salr I crossccl this trcstleon foot-from lro ne1'volls rclnctancc, horvevcr" A hunclrccl feetor so nr;rlie no diflerencc aftcr a little exireriencc in lool<ingthrough arcl over trestle-briclges fro,r :r corvcatchcr ? "I'he chiefrr.anLecl to inspect tiris bit of rvorl<, ancl thc train iralting for thepur:pose, sorne of the party t,allred ovcr, of urhorn I rvas one.

o'r jou,rey through these passcs \v:Ls full of plcasa,t rittlci,ciclc'ts, too .ume rous to rnc.tion here" ,, Construction ,, beinghardty yet finally cornpleted through tire Selkirks, gangs ofIabourers rverc still at rvorl<. Some of their temporary homes,

By Cor arttl 0y Cozucalc/tcr 303

in statiot-rary raihvay cars o11 sidir-rgs built for thc purposc, \\ic1.e

not so picturesquc as the hamlcts inhabitecl by others n'herciog cabins ncstlccl under tali ceclars, al.rd tet'rts rvcrc pitcircd tyrippling streams.

It rvas pleasant to see the rvartn rvelcotle given to tl-re Chicl'by these " du,ellers in thc rvilderness." As the Spcciai passccl,

and thc Chief rvas obscrvecl sitting or-r the encl platfortn, thccchoes rang ivith their lusty cheers. Jixpccting his arrival (thcSpecial \\ras of course telegraphecl from statiou to station), tircl;were generally found stanclir-rg by tlvcnties and thirties or-r theircar roofs, in angles of rocli, aucl evetl iu overliatlgit'rg trecs,saluting him rvith loud huzzas. f n sotne places the labour-gar-rgs,

busy on the road-bed, gave kindiy u'elcome by standing in liue,rvaving picli aud shovel ir-r clefault o[ flags, alld ill quicter spots

two or threc solitary rvorl<men lvor1ld run togcther on sotlc higirbank above us, aud cheer vocifcrously.

A nerv feature in the laudscape hereabor"rts rverc the catnps ofChinese labourers-a celtaifl air of tteatness about them ; theirpoor tents carclully pitcircd and closecl ; their tirr cooking-vesscls, sand-rubbed ancl shining, generally arrangecl ou rr-rstic

tablcs just outside. Wc sarv large nr-rrnbers of these singular-looliing pcople \\,orliing in gangs ttLrder a l,hite superir-rtcndct'rt,ruot only on thc roacl-bed, but in builcling snorv-shecls, u,hichare found necessar)r for rvitttcr travel. We tvere toIc1 th:rt aningenious railri'ay suoe rinteudcut had suggcstecl tal<ing tllesummer linc outsidc the snon'-sircds, so that tlie scellcr)/ nrigfutnot be hidden frorn vior., t,hich bright iclca is, I believc, to becarricd out forthivitlt.

These Cl.rir-resc navvies, ali ridiculously alil<c iu lonl anclfcature, rr'carir.rg quecr little bh-re-and-rvhite gowns, l-raug1.

trouscrs, rvooden shocs, ancl thicli flat strarv hats, give a foreignair to the scene. Standing mttte, rvide-eyed ancl expressionless,their shovels all held at thc same angle, reacly to begin on tliegravcl the instant rvc had passed, thcy had a curious effcct, as

of some mechanical appa,:atus rvith ar-r arvfr-rl sernblancc ofl'rurnarrity. Ancl 1,s1 u'c linorv theirs is the olclest civilizationin thc linon,n rvorld ! I{ori' fortuuate it is that all uations dcr

not cxprcss civilization in the same rvay I

As rve go onrvard, smoke iucreases around us ; the srleil ofburning lvood grows clisagreeable, aucl as eveniug fal1s l,c cansce tall trees in the distance gloi,ving t,ith flame, and tracts oflcvel grouncl hotly srnoking. It rvas sad to behold lvhat had

30+ By Car and by Cozucalc/tcr.

bcen lofty cedars prostrate in charred masses, ar.rcl fire steadilyaclvancing amo1lg the bright blueberry patches, the ta1l braci<encovers, and the tangled grorvth of r.vild florvers and fem.

Near one of these places rve had a little adventure. As rvesrvept into a ltarrol\r vailen almost overhung rvith trees, thesrno]<e scernecl to gloiv dense before us, and in the centre ofthe tracl< apDeared a little red flag. I knerv elrough of ,,flagging,,

signals to urclerstancl this mealtt " Danger," ancl in an instantafter I felt the brakes tighten. Clutching the frier-rdly ir.on barciosely lest I should be " spun off" by the irnpetus of a halt, Ipeerecl fonvard as \\re o'slowed," and behelcl clistant flarnereddening tire gloom beyor-rd. A signalman appeared as 1vecame to a staudstill. He rvas one of a smaIl gang tolcl off torvatch the fires and prevent them spreading to the sleepers, orin arry \\,ay injuring tlie tracl<. Telling the engineer that, alittle farther on, fire had advancecl quite near the iine, he ranback to his post. IJere n,as a delightful opportunity for a nervsensation ! One of our party r,vas by my side on the corv-catcher, ancl agreed to face the rush. The er-rgineer r,vent onto ir.rspect, and returnecl very dubior-rs about the safety of otn,position at all evet-rts ; but I succeeclecl so .i,vell in impressinghirn u,ith an iclea of our safety, that he rnade preparations to gofor*,arcl. And a very nelv ancl very hot se,sation it certainlyrvas to fly through a br-rsh-fire on a cowcatcher, as rve clicJ, ivitirberrt heads ar,d closely gathered skirts, to avoicl brcathing theheated air or catching fire.

Since the tirne of our jonurey, horvever, the road has beencr-rtirely completed, and so large a space cleared on either side thelir.re, that falien trees or flames at close quarters are irnpossible.

f'he rvilcl ancl riagnificent canyon of the lile-cil1e-rvaet isnorv leadir.rg us to Revelstol<e, at the seconcl crossing of theColumbia. This river, risir.rg in llogers' Pass, pours through agrancl clefile in r,vild rapids, enclosed by majestic monntains,surging past rocky ar-rd gravelly shores, as it leaps ancl foamsourvarcl through a tangled mass of vegetation. We cross ancll-ecross the stream several tirnes. Everyr,vhere, as usual, Ior.elysnowy peaks, crests, rvalls ancl slopes, tolver above forest, river,ancl rvild gorge, and rest against the sky. The eveningsI-radorvs that shroud the canyon, daricen the rvater, and creepup tlie mountain side, leave these delicious outlines untouchecl :

they 611]y scenr to grorv dim, as the stars come out and encircleeach facling tip with gems.

I

By Car and by Cozucatc/ter" 3o",' The gloom is profouncl after niglttfall ; but \tr/e are very happyat Revelstoke " on the siding"" Little John, the porter, hasprovided a splendicl dinner, spite of his dejection caused, Ibelieve, from seeing no prospect of getting fresh eggs forbreakfast !

I r.vas giad when rve moved out uext moruittg, and leftRevelstoke to her smoky solitude. The r,veather was clear andcool. Above the mist I could see the sky pearly blue, and theair lvas fragrant with the odour of pine and spruce.

Following the valley of the E,agle River, lve wind gailythrough the cedar forests of the Gold Range, gemmed rvithlakes blue and shining, its tall, darkly clothed summits often litby small cascades gleaming through the trees. Crossing airdrecrossing the Eagle River seven or eight times, r,ve reach theSicamous Narror,vs, into r,vhich its dark hurrying r,r'aters areemptied. We presently srveep into an immense valley, througirrvhich, for many miles, the line sliirts beautiful stretching lakes

-grand sheets of blue r,vater, glacier fed, lying in the folcls

of the Gold Range. These lakes close, as it were, into the-south branch of the Thompson River. Many tunnels lie in ourrvay as we rush by them, and during a halt I arn told one ofthe tunnels is " wet." This being interpreted, lneans .that thearching rock is full of springs, r,vhich pour on the train as itpasses. An umbrella a.nd r,vaterproof are therefore necessar)/for me,-no$' sole occupant of the cor,rcatcher; and rvithpraiseworthy economy I take off my hat, tuck it safely uudernly \'vraps, and prepare to encounter the "!vet" tunnel thttsequipped ! We plunge into a ferv moments' darkness,-u,atersplashing and dripping on every side; and as rve eorcrgeinto sunlight again, and stop just beyond the tuunel, I sec aparty of young English sportsmen standing uear the roaclside.They have evidently just climbed the bauk, guns in har.rd.

leaving a large canoe nith trvo Indiau paddlers on the la1<e

belolr,. Fine, tall young Saxons they are, in sporting attiresomervhat the rvorse for long travel, but very conventional instyie notrvithstanding. Just imagine the feelings r,vith rvhichthese rveil-regulated young men beheld a lacly, bareheacled, audl,ith an umbrella, seated in front of au engine, at the rnouth of a

tunnel in the Gold Range of British Columbia ! I arn sore11,

afraid I laughed outright at the blank amazemeut of thcir rosyfaces, and longed to tell them rvhat fun it '"vas ; but notbeing " introduced, )/ou know," I contented myself r'vith ac- "

VOL, I.-NO. III.

306 B), Cnn arud Ay Cozr.,catclter.

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knorvledging their prese'rce try a solem' rittle bow-rvhicrr r,vasquite irresistible under. the circurnstances I

A so,rervhat si*rilar incide^t occurred ,ext day cluring ourjournel, in the va1ley of the 1iraser River. The Special stfrrpedat a statio, r,r,here a mule trai, r,vas just starting foi- some a;stantgold rni,es, laden r,vitlr ,riners'supplies. It was very interestirrgto see the sturdy animals a1l packed ancJ ready, stancling inr-egrilar order, rvaiti'rg for the r,vord of commancl from their.Liver,rvhich they i,sta,tly obeyed, arl firing along at equar clistancesr,vith the air of quadrupeds of superior intellifencc, rvho hacl madeup their minds to avoid hurry or confusion. It chancccl to beone of our halts at tea-time, and, as usual, my cup of tca ancl sliceof bread-and-butter r,vere brought to the buirer-bcom. I hacl justbeen presented rvith.trvo large bouquets r,vhich lay in ,ryi"p.While I lcisurely sippecl rny tea, thcre suclclenly ,pp"r..,tbefore me a very thin, tali, melancholy_iool<ir-rg A,*ri"un,ha-ving something to clo rvitrr the pack trai, ,orv slJwly *inairrgoff through the mou,tains. Never shall I forget tt " .*p..rrionin that man's face as he steadily regarded-,re, seatJd com-posedly on the cowcatcher, surroundeJ i,vith flowers, a plate ofbread-ancl-butter or.r a candle-box near by, tal<i,g

"fi"rnoonl*.To rernain silent rvas impossible." Good evening," I said.The man nodded, and clrerv a long brcath." Havc you came far ?

,, he asl<ec'I, nft". ,. lotr pnusc.Frorr the othcr sidc of the l{ocl<ics,,, I a,-swere.t carelessly,

as if speaki,g of a strorl rou,cl a villagc-,,thrcc r*r..h.ccl rniresor so."

_"Did you co,re that r.vay dor,v, the Thornpsotl?,,he,extaskecl, a little anxiously.

" O yes-and I am eoing to the sea.,," You ai,'t afraicr lilrcry ? " rrc cortinued, ioor<i,g ,rore meran-

choly than ever." Not at a11."

'l Norv, 1oo1< here,,, he_ said, pausir.rg betr,veen each rvorcl, ,,it,sreal dangerous. I rvoulcl not cio this t-ling for a lot ol ,rror"y.i;Thelr, thrusting his hands into his po.k"?. with a civil, ,,Gooclerrening, Missis," he disappearecl ,ound the engine I

Byt l Ty., 1ro\v go bacl< to the Speciai, rulrilh iras by this timereached l(a*rloops, rvhere the norih branch of the tfr"rp.",ljoi,s the bra,ch r've have bee, travelring near, and trrey flor,v to-gether-one beautiful Thompson !_to jo"in the Fraser ot Lrrtton.

Ninety-four rniles of the C. 1'. R. lie betr,veen l(arnloops and.{-ytton. At I(arnloops the scenery changes abruptly and entirely.From thence through the cauyon ol the Thornpson to Lytton,rvhere r,ve strike the canyon of the Fraser, 1ve seefiI irl a. diffelentivorld. Huge sancl-hills, almost devoid of grass, roll in uuifortnsuccession on either side the lvidg rapidly flowing river' Soure

of these hills are thiniy covered r,vith short coarse bunches ofgreyish grass; a peculiar kind of red pine-tree clothes othersfronr base to crorvn. These trees stand apart in curiottsrows, as if they had been set in liue, and, monnting the stecpXrillsides, all leaning one lvay, have the effect of a large armytoiling upward and arouud the mighty canyott's fold as far as eyecan see,

l{emarkable coutrasts of colour make these parts very strikins.The country sloping ar,vay before me in billowy sandhiils,r,vhich rvear every tint of bro'uvn from pale to chocolate, isbrightened only by the Thompson's brilliant green r,vaters, ancl

arched over by a sort of duil China-blue sky. At some distauceabove l(amloops ri,e had passed over green park-lil<e flats ex-tending to the rvater on the right. Through these lve had madegoocl time, aud pleasaut it r,vas to be flying across that nelvcouutry in lvarnt sunlight I

In this section of the canyon raiu scarcely ever falls, rvhicilaccounts for the remarl<able brown tint visible e.zeryr'vhere'

There are indeed vL-ry green fields-irrge emeralcl patches--rvhich are irrigated at great cost from tire heights above. Thediligent Chinamen orvn tnost of these bright spots, to ivhic{r anerv charm is added by their brolvn surrouuclings. \Me weretold at a station near l(amloops that ouly tr'vo heavy showers ofrain irad falleu in uine years, i,vhich l felt to be another injusticeto poor Ireiand, rvho has so lnany more sholvers than are goodfor her !

Never to be forgotten is that ric1e, all alotte, on the colvcatchet'clown the valley of the Thompson ! Though stroug of nerve

and rvill, the sisht of tirose slender rails-alrvays on a heavyclou,n grade-gleaming on the precipice brinlc as fat'as I couldsee ahead, rvas solne\,vhat startling-not a bush ol blade tobreak the edge of the stern declivities, or to softeu the du1l-

coloured steeps that rosc from the ledge we travelleci ou" Horv-ever, no faiiing of heart-no reeling of brain must be allou'ed.No human sticcoLu could corne near-no cry could be heard, nosign seen-but then ! horv glorious was the feelinS.;l claring

.\a

308 Rlt Car and Ay Corucatc/ter.

risk, the tlirill of sl'rooting clou,nrvardssunlight and the glancing oirvater beforeshaclor.viess cxpanse at my feet I

r'vith thc flashing ofme, and that intmense

At Lytton rve entel. the. Iiraser canyolt, ancl pa.ss from greento clark-bro\\,n l\,aters, rolling fiercely'r.vith treme',.lor, ;rd;;r,through mountains ancl goiges trr"i in clim evenir-rg right lookitositively arvful !

lVe stay an hour at Lytton, a small place rvhere u,e arc gazedat by trany cl.rinese, and proceeci to North J3encl, at r,vhich,b.in5 1 divisional point, rve stop for the night.

. I{aving lingerecl too long at Lytton, lve soon find clarknessclosing around us ir.r trrat tiemendtus .",',yo,, lvhicir for tr.venty-seven r,iles holds the Fraser i, its clePths,

",,.1 "ro,rg ,lr"-.]i.-orrvhich ,,r,e norv travel, mere s1:ecl<. ln ttrut vast solitude ofurountain-precipice, bracr< rvith rvilcr rugeecl roclis, ancr arvfulr,r,ith imrnense shadotvs. fhe train procecrls slolvly. A look-out man sits rvith nre on the buffer-bearn, a,c1 *re co'rptroller;un,rindful of his i,teresting young family at horne in bttr*u,rvith ar.r acl,rirable sense of drity, stlr.es r,vitrr us trre risks of thatnight-ride along the Fraser !

^_?j]:".t:.*nr. Superintendent, rvho joineci us at l(amloops,cxirausted a dictiouary of ertreaty trrat I ,vourcl aba,clo, tirebujfer-beam, ancl has r.rorv retirecr, ir.r usclcss i,clignatio,, tothe co,rforts of his private c.1r. I :r.r ,crfcctly :r'varc it ise:<ceedingly cla,gerou.s, a,t-r trrat trrc srrrLlrt:st jar fro,r a stoneoti t'e tracl<, a too sudcle, cllrve, or t'c slililric.st giciclirress orloss of stre,gth, will

^ai,ost ccrtairrly c,cl lrry rnort:rl career ;but the rvild spell of the moment is strong upon ntc, aud Isit ,'"vatching the stars gleam out over trrc ,rrnutuiu crcstsa,d the foarn flash rvhite r 5o feet belorv, r,vitrr a ,rovccl a,clsrvelling heart I Ilorv ,.rysterious it all is-ho,v a,vfui in itssile,ce as rve stop *riclway, a,cl I stancl erect o, the cor,y-catcher to look at the grarcl srracro,nv,covered outlines trrat soarinto thc night sky !

"Just here," says a voice at my elbolv, ,,Bili Jones rvent clean

over."This is very sepuichral, but I knor,y thc speaker is the look_out

uan, and ask anxiously, ,,Wlrat hapltenecl ?,,

. " Bill r,vas running a gravel trainj, the voice goes on,_,, leftthe car at North Bencr, a,cl rvas bouird for Lyttori-rulr irlt withthe er.rgi're right alor-rg here." I see a ha,cl point to trre r.voodedprecipice roo feet clown.-(,Sire took a jump, and rvent dorvn

*-.'r'l

[;|li.lrti4rLll

By Car ancl 6Y Cozrtcatclt'er' 309

head first into the river-Bill and all' 'fhe brakesmalr' he

jumped off: but Bill was arvful shook'"

" Not killed ? ""

-Oh, no ; he's living clorvn in Ya1e, serving out drugs-a1l

right, only his broken leg ain't so long as the otlter'"'fona.iing on this renlrarkable story, aucl rvouderiug at Bill's

gooa tu.k i"rr ercaping so r'vell, I travel a mile or tr'vo further'

E"i"yirg the soft'r-,igit "vind -as -it rushes against my face' the

oatu. oT der,vy leaves, the souncl of rushir-rg lvater' and the beatity

of that starr:y strip of sky above, in contrast lvith the dark

ntountain's edge:-r,vhen sucldenly, a series of sharp' pistol-Iike

shots burst around us, and I feel the brakes clasping. Anothe.r

instant and r've are envelopecl in a fog, as it seems to tne' which

rises all round us aftcr a Lysterious souncl of rr-rshing, that has

harclly ceased when we stop' A slsnal..man corles forlvard out

oi tiJ gt"o*, holcling his larnp aloft' The conductor is before us

in ",',

iirtnnt. " Wh;t is rvrong ? " he asks' Only a little lanclslip'

;ilgi;g gravel ancl stoncs onlht track' rvhich have to be cleared

before lve can go on our way, but telling only too plainly of

possibledangertopasserrgersontlrecor,vcatclrer,slrouldotleofit " f"tg.t .io,l"r, alttoag"a from th'e mountain side' throw our

engine liom the track.ileararrt rvas tire rvarm brightness of the " Jamaica"' as I euterecl

it at Nortli Bencl, vei:y hun[ry, somelvhat tired' but triumphant'

The Chief was ruu.h inter-lsiecl in flry i'ccount of the "front

,i"ru,'iu, tve sat talking ; but I gre"v clrolvsy in the middle of n-iy

oiorj, "ra found mysIli rva.deiing o, about J3i1l Jones' engiue'

and'ilre stars above the mountai,], i,-t o cot-rfused sort of rvay that

suggested it rvas tiure for tireci travellers--to go to bed' - -

i)'u, l"rt day's jotlrney, from Nor:th lJencl to Port Moody' is

most interesting as rvell as rviid, varied, and very beautifui ; t f7

miles of canyon, valley, level meaclow and soft rolling wood-

land,-all charming in Lright sunlight, under a brilliar-rt sky'

Thc constant successiori of fine days ancl ciear nights during

our trip, rvhich occupiecl exactly a foitnight, is nothing retnarl<-

able in these latitucles, The heartbreaking " lvet sLllnmers "

rvhich are so common in Great Britain seem unkltolvn here ; ancl

J.rring my 6oo nriles on the cowcatcher, except occasionaily *

rvhen the sun shone hoily at r.rriclclay, I never experier-rced any

inconvenience fr,rm heat or cold'

From Lyttou to Port Hammond u'e follolv th': Fraser" As Irvrite here in my quiet room, those grand gorges unfold before

3ro -DSt C,rr nnd ly Co,tucctltficr. By Car antd 6Y Cozucalclter' 1TI

me again as they dicl on the clay I sar,v therl, ful1 of soft cloud-sliadows rnovi,g over rnountai, sides, of r,assive clifls rising ahunclred feet frorn the road-bed, crorvned u.ith forest, of dashi"ngrvilci rvaters irissing among huge boulclcrs ir crepths belo*,. Asoftcr landscape ,ow lies beforc me, as I crreau of graceful irill-sidcs, sloping to gree, meado*,s, a,cl u.oocllancl glortus rvith the,ragnificent foliagc of British col,rnbia-of a great lake r,vithpark-like clumps of trees decking its green islands,_ot clcep baysse t i, sylvan beauty, rvhere tra,qr-ril rvater reflects'r,hite clouclietsfloating i, the blue abovg a,c1 toys ivitrr the dericate foliage thatrests on its fair bosom !-Just at such a spot i,r,e killed a pig.This rvas horv it happene cl. IJaving bee, told that one or nry .iri3rda'rgcrs on the buffer'-beam lvas the possibly snclcic. arrivai of ana,imal's bocly l<illed by the corvcatcher arrd tlrror,v, into my rap,f rvas al,"va1us on the Iool<-out {br such a catastroph", nrr.l iru.l,consolccl to fircl that u,her, as in thc vallcy of the Thompsor) cowspersisted in crossing orlr rvay, the er.rgi,cer slacker.red ,p."i, ,rdrvhistled u'til tirey clisappeared. Bui this pig, evicrertly of a.oya,c1 shrinkirg nature, dicl

'ot revear hirnseri until creath rv*, .1o*at hand. lVith the ,, Secretary,, on my ,, guest,s ,, candle_box, Irvas enjoying the beauty of the scene juit clescribecl, ,,vhen t'he,?u,llu1y immediately before us sr.varmed r,vith littie black pigs,rvhich had darted from bushcs grorving ,ear the trzr.cl<. 1-l,;;;\vas a squeak, a flash of somcthirrg ucirr, :urr[ :uvtry lve lvcltt,Ieaving one poor little sacri{icccl bcirrty ])rirrg clcacl on th" roajbehind us. The Secretary averrccl thaf tlic bocly had strucl<hirn in passing; but as I shut rny cycs tiilhtly alrnost .rs sootl asthe pigs appearecl, I cannot bear teitirnoiry to thc fact.

Yalc is bea,tifully situatecr o* trre Iirascr. so rrcar anclprecipitous arc the ,rountair.rs here, that i, tlvc,ty-o,c ,riresaftei leavi,g Yale rve pass throrgh eightee'tnn.ers. Every turnrvas a picture, atrd cvcr"y picturc rvas r1e\.\r. The moming air.rvas sweet ancl pnre; dcrv sparl<lccl evcryrvirere, ancl my "on\,grief rvas the prospect of encling ot r journly"

lYe passcd many hamlets, chicfly .on,1ros"d of miners, houses,a'd rnany clii,ese calnps, o, the gravclly shores of the riraserfar beloi,v, r,vhere the Celestials were .,"nrlri,.,g sand for gold, o'drying salrno, or1 qlleer racl<s .racle of branches a,cl logJ, thrusti.to thc rocl< crevices. sorne of trrese 'o curi'rg " places lvere or.ra large sc;rle, a.cl h,ndrecls of sarmor, cut op& a,c1 pr"essed l1at,clangied over the rvater.

At Ifarrison Lal<e and Ruby frsqk the scenery is especially

beautiful. I think it rvas near the former that, as rve roundeci a

curve, Motttlt Baker suclder"rly appeared on tlre lrorizorr-r4,ooofeet of sno\,vy shoulders, pink in sunlight, r'vith peaks lilie frozen

breath rising straight into the sky'

Now neaily 3ooo miles from ottr starting-point, Ottarva' rve

are nearing Port Moody on lJurrard In1et, r,vhere, alas ! I mtlst

Uia gooa-6ye to canclle-box a,c1 cor,vcatcher, atrd coutettt inyself

lvitlian easy_chair on the cleck of a stearner bound for victoria.

The Canadian Pacific line rvas not completecl beyoncl Port

Mooclyatthetimelwriteof.Nolvitlrasbeencarricdfor:rvardfourteen miles further to its real terminus-and no fairer spot

can be founcl anyr'vhere, I thini<, than the site of the infant

city of Vancouver. ,! ,,br. ,u" go, speecling fonvard to the coast' tneeting the sr'veet

breath of"ocean mingtect with rich scent of pine boughs' tl+eir

delicate tips waving: rvelcome as we pass-oll' otl' steadily'

swil'tly dorv, to the iea I More speecl, atid r've fly fo^varcl' past

rocL and river, slope, grass-land, ancl lakelet ; more speecl'' ancl

the ble,di,g of foiest colours grorvs bervildering i. the sumlner

air; still ml.e, and it is all one liue of rningied blues ancl greells

u, ,u. srveep down to the sparkling beauty of that clistant

ocean, nn,l s.e the flash of its bright waters on the red saucls o{*

a baY belorvt

^GNES MACDoNALD'

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