1

2

A Bustle & Sew Publication

Copyright © Bustle & Sew Limited 2014

The right of Helen Dickson to be identified as theauthor of this work has been asserted inaccordance with the Copyright, Designs andPatents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publicationmay be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system ortransmitted in any form, or by any means, withoutthe prior written permission of the author, nor beotherwise circulated in any form of binding orcover other than that in which it is published andwithout a similar condition being imposed on thesubsequent purchaser.

Every effort has been made to ensure that all theinformation in this book is accurate. However,due to differing conditions, tools and individualskills, the publisher cannot be responsible for anyinjuries, losses and other damages that may resultfrom the use of the information in this book.

First published 2014 by:Bustle & SewCoombe LeighChillingtonKingsbridgeDevon TQ7 2LEUK

www.bustleandsew.com

3

Hello, and welcome to thefirst magazine of 2015!

I can hardly believe that this issue completes four whole years of the Bustle & Sew Magazine,growing from a small publication with around 30 pages and just three patterns in the first issueinto today’s around 70 pages packed with not only six of my patterns, but extra features,interviews, articles and loads more too. Many of the more recent changes have been introducedby my daughter Rosie, without whom this magazine simply wouldn’t appear in its current form- thanks so much Rosie!

We’ll be celebrating our 4th birthday in the next issue, but before then we’re seeing in the NewYear in style with an emphasis on hand stitching - perfect projects to enjoy from the comfort ofyour armchair - perhaps with a nice mug of hot chocolate and a lovely blazing fire - fab!

You’ll also discover the first of a brand new series of features - “Best of British” where we talk tosome of our favourite design-led British brands of the last decade, beginning with Poppy Treffrywho tells us how she built her company from literally nothing to the multinational it is today - whileraising her daughter and keeping all her products handmade in Cornwall. The Baking Corner isparticularly yummy this month with some Raspberry Cheesecake Chocolate Brownies (thanksso much Kate!) best made before the end of December as I don’t think they will work well as partof a post-Christmas diet! And not one, but TWO Meet the Makers - one of my favourite features.

Finally, best wishes for a very happy New Year from all of us here at Bustle & Sew HQ!

Helen xx

February issue publishedThursday 29 January2015

4

Does your project call for a twin needle in your sewing machine? Beforepopping out to the shop check your manual as some machines,

particularly older models, can actually take two normal needles in theneedle clamp, so no need to buy an expensive twin needle!

Tips for Stitchers

5

ContentsJanuary Almanac Page 6

Deerly Loved Cushion Cover Page 7

Meet the Maker: Gulush Threads Page 10

In Silhouette Page 12

Baby Bear Hottie Cover Page 13

Good Idea! Fabric Buttons Page 16

Farewell to Christmas Page 17

Best of British: Poppy Treffry Page 18

I’ve started so I’ll finish Page 20

You are Loved Hoop Page 21

Cheesecake Brownies Page 26

Baking Shopping Corner Page 28

Woodland Mini Hoops Page 29

Poetry Corner: Weather Song Page 31

Good Idea! Laundry Bags Page 32

Cat Nap Eye Pillows Page 33

Choosing your Needle Page 36

Allium Embroidery Page 37

Meet the Maker: Artisan Designs Page 40

January’s Favourite Blogs Page 42

Miss Poppy Mouseling Page 43

And finally …… Page 48

January Calendar Page 49

Baking Conversion Tables Page 50

Templates Page 51

ContributorsRosie Studholme

Puts together all our lovelyideas, shopping and bakingpages as well as researching &editing our features andinterviews.

Kristen Gula

Talks to us about her businessGulush Threads in the first ofthis month’s “Meet the Maker”

Sophia Purivs

Brings us a wonderful recipefor Raspberry CheesecakeChocolate Brownies from hernew book “A Piece of Cake”

Lucy Layland

Talks to us about herbusiness, Artisan Designs inour second “Meet the Maker”

6

Deerly LovedCushion Cover

A little patchwork, some easyapplique and a few sparklybuttons make this cushioncover into something reallyspecial.

Be right on-trend with thiscushion featuring ahandsome stag and delicatedoe in silhouette - perfect forbrightening up your sofa thiswinter.

Pattern to make 16” squarecushion cover.

Materials● Sixteen x 4 ½” squares floral cotton

fabric (I used a mixture of Tilda andvintage eiderdown fabrics)

● 9” square dark purple felt

● Matching stranded cotton embroideryfloss

● 11” square cream cotton or linen fabric

● 48 small (¼” approx) pearly buttons

● 2 rectangles medium weight cotton forbacking each measuring 12” x 16”

● 16” square cotton for backing front panelbefore assembling cushion. This fabricwon’t be seen from the outside so anyleftover will do - just be careful that youdon’t use a strong pattern that mightshow through your applique panel

● Temporary fabric marker pen

● Bondaweb

● 16” cushion pad

7

“I gave into my love ofcrafting and became

my own boss

talks to us about the importance ofembroidery, being a stay at home mum and how she

started her business,

Meet theMaker

Gulush Threads was started in 2013by a stay at home mum, KristenGula, as a means to help provide forher family and has evolved over thepast year into a thriving , uniquehandmade business.

I have been "creating" ever since I waslittle, the need to always makesomething new being a big part of whoI am. I've spent most of my life creatinga wide variety of beautiful things throughmusic, art, dance, and literature and Ieven studied these in college to,hopefully, pursue in some form of acareer. It wasn't until after college (andduring my wedding planning stage) didI realize my love of crafting and the ideaof creating something by hand thatreflects who I am as a person. I beganpursuing as many outlets as possible tofulfil this new passion which, in turn,lead me to create Gulush Threads.

Gulush Threads began when my"expected" career was put to an end. Iwas laid off from my job as atelecommute copy writer and wasdesperate to find a way to stay homewith my children and work off my

crippling student loan debt. I had fallenin love with embroidery when I hadreceived one as a gift for my weddingand, with encouragement from a friendwho had already made a business forherself online, I gave into my love ofcrafting and became my own boss.Gulush Threads was createdshortly after and the rest is history.

I was always aware of the craft, but hadnever seen any work up close. It wasn'tuntil I received a lovely piece at mywedding, did I fall head over heels forit. I remember thinking to myself, "I lovethis and I have to try it". I boughtmaterials and I began teaching myself,slowly falling in love with the sound ofthe thread passing through the fabricand the almost euphoric way therepetitive motion turned my anxiety intomush. Embroidery quickly became anecessity, a way of coping and a wayof relaxing, and has become so muchmore to me than a hobby or a business.Not many people can say that their jobis their passion, their outlet forfrustration or their means to unwindafter a long day and for that, I am verygrateful.

8

Baby BearHottie Cover

There’s nothing quite like a hotwater bottle to snuggle up towhen it’s cold outside … andnow your hottie can be evennicer to cuddle with the secondof this year’s cosies - this time anadorable baby bear.

Bear is sized to fit a standard hotwater bottle and there’s a simpleenvelope closure at the back soyou can refill your bottle easily.Perfect for toasty toes all winterlong!

Cosy measures 16” x 10”approximately to fit 13” x 7 ½”bottle.

Materials● 18” x 24” sherpa fleece fabric - or any

woolly fabric will be fine

● 18” x 24” ready quilted polycotton fabric

● 3” x 2” square cream felt

● 7” x 5” pale pink felt for tummy

● 4” x 2” pale brown felt for front paws

● 2 ½” square floral fabric for heart

● Tiny piece of red felt for second heart(optional)

● Stranded cotton floss in black, pink andred

● Two 3/8” safety eyes

● Brown tapestry wool or 4-ply knittingyarn

● Crewel needle

● Bondaweb (if not using fleece fabric)

● Cream machine thread

● Temporary fabric marker pen

9

Look!a lovely idea

FabricButtons

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Make your buttons pretty with these gorgeousfabric covers by the lovely Minki Kim. Popover to her website for the full tutorial!Image & Tutorial: http://www.minkikim.com

10

This month sees the first in our newseries featuring the best in Britishdesign-led business. We’re delightedto begin with Poppy Treffry whosecolourful and quirky range of gifts,homewares and fashion accessoriesfeaturing Poppy’s own distinctivefreehand machine embroidery arepopular worldwide. Poppy Treffrysells to over 100 stockists aroundthe globe including Fortnum andMason, Liberty, Anthropologie andWhite Stuff, as well as direct to thepublic through their shop in St Ives,Cornwall and online at her ownwebsite.

Poppy Treffry the business was born10 years ago, when it was justPoppy (the person!) and her Singersewing machine playing around withsome of her hoarded fabric stash tocreate bags featuring unique, quirky,colourful designs. A friend decidedthat they were far too nice to remainin a box under her bed, so tookthem to a local gallery, Avalon Art inMarazion.

While on display there they werespotted by a business mentor,under whose guidance Poppy wasable to expand her business withher own studio, a member of staff –Freya, who still works in thebusiness today – and booked astand at the British Craft Trade Fairin Harrogate. After a busy show,Poppy was able to take herbusiness to a London trade showthe following year and as the orderskept coming in was able to give upher job at the local council to focuson her business full time, as well astaking on another stitcher, Briony,followed by Faye, her sister.

Since then Poppy Treffry has grownand grown, but still retains the feelof being run by a “real” craftsperson,whose team hand make productswith love and care, and who are ableto reproduce designs and can fulfilquite big orders.

Refreshingly, Poppy remainsfocussed on her individualcustomers and feels her biggestsingle business success to date

We spoke to about freehand machineembroidery, how proud she is of her team and how her

business has grown into the brand it is today

“Ten years ago itwas just me anda Singer sewing

machine!”

11

I’ve started …. so I’ll finish!From beginning to end … threading your needle, placing your first stitch and finally fastening off .. beginning andending a piece of work properly is so important. This month’s issue brings three hand embroidery projects - perfectfor curling up by the stove on cold winter evenings, so I thought this issue was the perfect moment to remind ourselvesof these vital, but often overlooked, techniques.

Threading your needle

Many stitchers find threading their needle difficultbecause of poor eyesight (I can so relate to this nowthat I too need glasses), or simply through not knowingthe best method to do so. A good way to thread yourneedle - and the way I was taught by my grandma - isas follows ….. Hold the needle in your right hand (leftif you are left-handed) and with your other hand loopthe thread over the point of the needle and pull it tight.Holding this loop firmly between your thumb andforefinger, turn the needle around, place the eye overthe loop and push it down so that the thread passesthrough the eye.

Beginning your project

Where you should start to stitch your design is afundamental question. It’s always a good idea to workin a continuous flow rather than to start in severaldifferent places and then discover that your workdoesn’t join up successfully. If your design requiresvery dense stitching it’s easiest to start in the middlewith the main features and then work towards theedges.

Starting a thread

Your thread shouldn’t be any longer than the distancefrom wrist to elbow. Longer threads are not onlyuncomfortable to stitch with as you have to stretchyour arm and shoulder to pull them firm, but are alsomuch more likely to knot, twist and fray.

For most hand embroidery projects, the neatest wayto begin is to make a few small stitches, leaving theend of the thread at the front at a point that will becovered by the stitches you intend to make with thethread on your needle. It is important to cover thestarting stitches within this part of the project to ensurethat colours don’t overlap and show through. Keepthe “tail” short - snip it closely to the front of the fabric.Once your work is underway you can run your threadunder a few stitches at the back before starting tostitch. Try not to run dark threads into light ones andvice versa as they might show through.

Finishing a thread

This can be done in the same way as starting a thread.If you’re continuing in the same colour, then make acouple of tiny stitches where they will be covered byyour next thread. Leave the end on top of your work,snipping it off when you reach it. If you’re using acontrasting colour then turn your work over and runthe thread under a few stitches at the back.

Never carry threads behind the work across an areathat won’t be stitched - this can cause your work todistort, they may catch in wear and they may also showthrough to the front. It’s important to trim your threadsclosely once they’ve been secured as threads lefthanging will tangle and interfere with your stitching.My grandma used to say that the back of your workshould look as lovely as the front and whilst I’m notentirely convinced by this, I do believe that it should beas neat, tidy and secure as you can make it.

12

You are LovedHoop

It’s great to tell someone youlove them, whether it’sValentine’s Day, Mother’s Day,their birthday - or no occasion atall - just because they’re special.Or why not stitch for yourself asa reminder that you’re specialtoo.

Using a palette of muted wintercolours with applique felt andfabric highlights, this hoop is sureto please. It’s not a beginner’sproject, but would be perfect forsomeone wanting to progress.

Shown mounted in 10” hoop.

Materials

● 12” square cream or white cotton orlinen (or blend of the two) fabric

● 6” square pale pink felt

● 4” square pale blue felt

● Small pieces cream and dark green felt

● 2” square floral fabric for heart

● DMC stranded cotton floss

● Bondaweb

Method

● Transfer the design to the centre of yourbackground fabric using the method ofyour choice. Templates are given actualsize and also reversed.

● Using the reversed template trace thelarge flower shapes and the heart on tothe paper side of your bondaweb. Cut outroughly, then fuse to your felt/fabric. Cutout carefully and fuse to your backgroundfabric using the transferred pattern as aguide.

● Stitch following instructions overleaf.

13

> 280g butter> 250g chocolate> 2 cups brown sugar> 4 eggs> ½ cup flour

> 250g cream cheese> 1/3 cup white sugar> 1 egg> 1 teaspoon of vanilla paste> as many raspberries as you want (fresh

or frozen)

> Pre heat oven to 180 degrees

> In a saucepan heat butter and chocolate untilmelted, remove from heat and set aside.

> In a separate bowl combine sugar, flour and eggsand stir until combined. Stir through the chocolatemixture, and pour into a 30 x 20cm tray.

> To make the cheese cake mixture, place thecream cheese, sugar, egg and vanilla paste into aelectric beater and beat until smooth.

> Spoon the cream cheese mix into the browniemixture and use a knife to add swirls, then press theraspberries into the mixture. Bake for 40 minutes oruntil cooked.

14

I’ve seen lots of images of mini-hoops worn as jewellery onPinterest and other sites andhave been keen to have a gomyself. I purchased a mini-hoopkit from Dandelyne on Etsy andwould so totally recommend hershop - the kit arrived reallyquickly, complete with chainsand also optional brooch backswhich I wasn’t expecting.

These are the two larger hoops,each measuring just 2” diameterand were huge fun to stitch.Dandelyne also provides abacking board - all you need issome glue.

Materials● Two 2” mini-embroidery hoops - visit

Dandelyne on Etsy.https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/dandelyne

● Two squares of cotton fabric (quiltingweight cotton worked well) eachmeasuring 4” square

● Scraps of felt in pale blue, white andreddish-brown

● Stranded cotton floss in dark blue, paleblue, reddish-brown cerise, yellow, leafgreen, black and white

● Bondaweb

● Temporary fabric marker pen

● Glue

Woodland MiniHoops

15

A Song of the Weather ….As I was putting together the first of a new series of calendar printables (at the end of the magazine) I found the old rhyme “Januarybrings the snow” running through my head. I’m sure it’s familiar to everyone reading this, but rather less well-known perhaps isthis humorous version much-loved by my father, composed by Michael Flanders of Flanders and Swann, a British comedy duofrom the mid-twentieth century. As the British weather is notoriously uncertain - and often rainy! I’m sure this poem will strike

January brings the snowMakes your feet and fingers glow

February's ice and sleetFreeze the toes right off your feet

Welcome March with wintry windWould thou wer't not so unkind

April brings the sweet spring showersOn and on for hours and hours

Farmers fear unkindly MayFrost by night and hail by day

June just rains and never stopsThirty days and spoils the crops

In July the sun is hotIs it shining? No, it's not

August cold, and dank, and wetBrings more rain than any yet

Bleak September's mist and mudIs enough to chill the blood

Then October adds a galeWind and slush and rain and hail

Dark November brings the fogShould not do it to a dog

Freezing wet December then:Bloody January again! Let’s hope this isn’t true of 2015!

16

Look!a lovely idea

LaundryBags

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Organise your laundry with these fab laundrybags by the lovely Pat Bravo. Pop over to herwebsite for the full tutorial!Image & Tutorial: http://patbravodesign.blogspot.co.uk

17

> Cotton fabric> Pink & black embroidery floss> 3 tablespoons of each: dried

lavender, chamomile & lemonbalm

> 1 cup of flax> Sewing machine & thread> Fabric scissors> Pins> Pencil> Transfer Paper> Needle> Small embroidery hoop

Print out the pattern provided and cut out with craft scissors.Following the instruction on the pattern, cut out all your fabricpieces using fabric scissors. Iron all your pieces flat.

Pattern piece A is the front of your pillow and also where you willembroider the cat face. Fold your fabric in half and iron. This foldwill be your centre guide for the face. Lightly sketch the eyes,nose and mouth freehand with a pencil. If drawing freehand isn’tyour thing, you can also use transfer paper to trace the cat facedirectly from the pattern onto the fabric.

Cut a length of black embroidery floss and thread it through yourneedle. Using a Back Stitch, embroider the eyes and mouth ofthe cat. Next cut a length of pink embroidery floss and rethreadyour needle. Back stitch the outline of the cat’s nose, then use a

18

AlliumEmbroidery

Materials● 5” X 14 ½” cream medium weight fabric

suitable for embroidery

● 2” x 14 ½” rectangle contrasting fabricand 4 ½” diameter circle of same fabric

● DMC stranded cotton floss

Note: I didn’t line my container, but it wouldbe very easy to make a lining of the samesize to attach by your method of choice.

Method● ¼” seam allowance used throughout.

● Transfer pattern using your method ofchoice. Make sure the bottoms of yourstems are ¼” from the bottom of yourcream fabric. Stitch design followingstitch guide on the following page.

● When complete press lightly on thereverse side

I’ve wanted to create an embroiderypattern based on the intricatebeauty of allium and other umbelliferheads once the flowers have fadedand the seed cases are revealed inall their glory.

I chose to make my embroidery intoa small round storage container, butif you created a larger version itwould work well as a cushion cover,or even as a pretty picture for thewall.

Finished embroidery panelmeasures 5” x 14 ½” and thecontainer measures 4” diameter x6” tall (approx)

19

There’s never a ‘perfect’time to start a business,so just go for it! If youdon’t try you’ll neverknow what you can

achieve”

talks to us about embroideredanimals, nature inspired illustrations and how she

started her business,

Meet theMaker

Artisan Designs is a small designstudio producing stylishstationery and giftware inspiredby nature, wildlife and thecountryside as well as happywhimsical designs inspired bychildhood. Lucy’s products arecarefully handcrafted fromquality materials and to ensureoriginality of design she uses herown illustrations,embellishments, collage andphotography.

I grew up in a creative family,and can’t remember a timewhen I didn’t draw or paint. Mygrandma taught me to knit andcrochet and my mum sews andused to make beautiful teddybears and soft toys, so growingup there was always a new craftto discover, plus my grandfatherwas an amateur artist, so therewas no escape for me! I went onto study fine art at university,specializing in printmaking.

It has always been something Ihoped to do at some point asI’ve always made gifts andcards for friends and familywhich have always been wellreceived and I’ve also donecommissioned artwork too. Ireally wanted to gain a wideraudience for my artwork anddesigns, so after a little researchI opened up a shop on Folksyfollowed by a shop over on Etsy.

I’m currently designing newcharacters to add to my feltfamily, so more whimsicalembroidered animals will beappearing in the coming year.I’m also working on somenature inspired illustrationswhich I plan to get printed ontofabric for a brand new range ofaccessories and home ware.

20

Lobster & Swan is owned by Jeska, aninterior stylist who tells us she loves toshare the things that warm her heart - andours too I think!

What Delilah Did is the work of SophieSimpson who lives in a sleepy Norwichtown where she creates the mostwonderful cross stitch patterns and more.

Follow Sal’s journeys around South Devon- she takes her camera everywhere andher blog, Sal’s Snippets is stuffed withbeautiful imagery.

And finally, what could be nicer thanchocolate baking and cooking from aCornish kitchen on the Chocolate Log Blog?

21

Miss PoppyMouseling

Miss Poppy Mouseling is thesweetest little baby mouse in thewhole of South Devon! Shemeasures a dainty 7” tall from thetops of her ears to the tips of hertoes and has the most delightfulbaker’s twine tail.

I also made Poppy a cute littlemini-hexagon quilt together witha mattress and pillow - so shecan be nice and snug and cosytucked inside her box.

Box measures 7” x 4” x 3” and Ipurchased mine from IndianBazaar on Etsy. Finished quiltmeasures 4 ½” x 5” approx.

Materials● 10” square mouse-coloured felt

● Tiny scrap of pale pink felt

● 6” square floral cotton fabric for dress

● 2 small black spherical beads for eyes

● Strong thread for whiskers

● Tiny brown button for nose

● Four x ½” buttons for joints

● 4” baker’s twine or other string

● Mouse-coloured stranded cottonembroidery floss

● Toy stuffing

● Scraps of floral cotton for quilt

● 5 ½” ricrac braid to trim quilt

● 5” x 5 ½” backing fabric for quilt

● 3” x 5 ½” stripey fabric for quilt trim

22

23

24