Building Gundam Models: Advanced Panel · Building Gundam Models: Advanced Panel Intros Simple...
Transcript of Building Gundam Models: Advanced Panel · Building Gundam Models: Advanced Panel Intros Simple...
Building Gundam Models:
Advanced Panel
Intros
Simple tricks to improve finish
Perfect finish!
Make it shine!
Now Break it!
Contests
http://angelmex.net
Using glue
Using glue in some key sections
in the skeleton can help make
the model sturdier.
You can use glue to close gaps
between pieces.
Gundams don’t need much
glue. Use very small amounts, mostly or only around the
pin/hole sections.
Test fit the parts before
applying glue, make sure
you’re gluing the correct parts
Using Glue
Regular plastic glue/cement
melts the plastic and welds it
together. Takes several minutes
to fully dry, and can’t be used
as a filler for gaps.
Gel superglue dries faster, and
can be used as a filler for gaps.
Liquid superglue is not
recommended. More difficult
to control, dries too fast.
Be careful…
Not to glue your fingers
If there’s glue on you, stop
working on the model immediately and wash your
hands.
Super glue fumes will frost clear
parts. Keep them away from
super glue.
For clear parts, use white glue,
or Testors clear parts glue.
Dealing with gaps/seams between
parts
Newer models rarely have any
visible gaps between parts.
Most modern Gundams have a panel line depression in
between parts to help hide the
gaps.
You can just use a bit of glue to
make sure the parts stay firmly
together, and paint the panel
line between parts.
Gaps between parts
If you want to completely hide
the gap, that’s a lot more
work, especially in a
Gundam…
The most important thing is to
be consistent. Whichever
approach you take, make sure
you follow the same approach
all over, or at least symmetrical
pieces.
Hiding gaps using putty
1. Planning planning planning. Are
the pieces a single assembly? Do
they cover other sections with
different finish/color? For the leg
example…
2. Mask the skeleton sections, like the
knee joint
3. Glue the white pieces around it,
using a good amount of gel
superglue. It’s ok if some glue
squeezes out.
4. Let the glue dry solid.
Hiding gaps using putty
1. Use a xacto knife to cut out the
biggest chunks of dry glue.
2. Use sandpaper to sand the
remaining glue.
3. If parts of the gap are still visible, fill
them with putty.
4. Let the putty dry.
5. Sand again.
6. Once there are no visible gaps,
prime the piece.
7. Check for gaps again, and repeat
from step 3 if needed.
Hiding gaps using putty
1. Paint the white piece as you
normally would.
2. Remember the Red shoe? Now
you need to do it all again for the
shoe, if there are any gaps you
want to hide…
3. Unmask any masked pieces.
Airbrushing
Opens up a world of creative
possibilities
You can minimize the use of spray paint.
You can use mostly acrylic
paints
Long term, it’s cheaper than
spray paint.
Needs commitment and attention.
Airbrushing
Nice airbrush and compressor
set is about $150 to $200.
Get a double action
Practice writing and drawing
simple shapes
Try to use mostly acrylics: Easier
to clean, cheaper thinner
(rubbing alcohol), usually non-
toxic.
Before airbrushing
1. Recommendation: Tamiya
acrylic thinner is just rubbing
alcohol, so save some
money…
2. Thin the paint. About 2:1
thinner:paint ratio. Consistency
should be about the same as
skim milk.
3. Make sure the airbrush is clean.
Consider running a bit of alcohol thru it before starting to
paint.
Quick cleaning
You can immediately continue painting with a different color after a quick cleaning
1. If you have a bottom feed container, cover the airbrush tip and pull on the trigger to make the paint flow back to the container.
2. Shut down the air compressor
3. Clean the paint container
4. Add some thinner to the container.
5. Airbrush some thinner to clean remaining paint.
Full cleaning
Never store a dirty airbrush.
1. When you’re ready to store the
airbrush, do the quick cleaning, then disassemble it.
2. Dip pieces in thinner for a few
minutes.
3. Check for any remaining paint.
Remove it using a cloth dipped
in thinner.
4. Dry pieces.
5. Reassemble airbrush.
Airbrush process
1. If you go from light to dark
colors, you can just do a quick
cleaning in between.
2. You must do a full cleaning in
the following cases:
1. If you go from a dark color
to a light color (especially
white)
2. If you go from any color to
a clear coat.
3. If you go from a metallic
color to any color.
Shading process
1. Prime pieces
2. Optionally apply a quick coat
of the final color
3. Pick a pre-shade color:
1. A darker shade of the piece
color will give a subtle
effect.
2. A darker complementary color will give a more
dramatic effect.
4. Airbrush around panel lines,
depressed areas, etc.
Airbrush process
1. Optionally pre-shade raised
areas with a lighter color.
2. Blend all the shades together by applying the base color in
light coats until you get the
desired effect.
3. Optionally post-shade with
both darker and lighter tones
for additional effects.
Dry Transfer markings
Usually included in Master
Grade and above
1. Cut out the marking you’re about to apply
2. Place on the desired spot.
3. If possible, secure with tape.
4. Rub the marking with a pencil
tip
Dry transfer markings
1. Keep rubbing until the marking is
fully transferred. You’ll notice how
it detaches from the backing
paper.
2. Make sure the decal completely
transferred before removing the
backing.
3. Remove the backing
4. Clear coat to seal.
Waterslide decals
Official ones are High Quality,
lots of detail
Most popular Gundams have their own official waterslide
decals set
For the rest, you can get a
generic set
Usually $10 to $15
If nothing works… you can make your own ;)
Waterslide decals: Process
1. 1. Cut around decal
2. Dip in water for 30s
3. Set on a tissue or napkin to
absorb excess water
4. Wait 30s to 1 min. for the decal
to detach from the backing.
(continued)
(continued)
5. Put some decal softer on application spot
6. Apply decal solution to spot
7. Place decal in place
8. Gently and slowly squeeze with cotton swab or napkin or cloth to remove excess water.
9. Apply mark softer on top.
10. Remove excess
(continued)
Waterslide decals: Process
Waterslide decals: Process
(continued)
11. Continue making sure the decal is
in place.
12. Repeat a couple of times to make
sure the decal takes the piece’s
shape and the clear film blends
in.
13. Apply finish coat
Custom waterslide decals
What to do if there aren’t official
waterslide decals? Make your
own!
What you need:
Decal paper
Decal bonder spray
Scanner
Photoshop or similar picture
editing software
Xacto knife
Patience… Lots of patience
Custom waterslide decals: Process
1. Scan stickers sheet
2. Open picture in Photoshop.
3. Remove background color using Photoshop
tools:
1. Magic wand
2. Eraser
3. Lasso
4. Once you’re done, you should have a
transparent picture file, with the original
decals
5. Print decals sheet on decal paper
Custom waterslide decals: Process
6. Let ink dry at least a few minutes
7. Lightly coat the decal sheet with the decal coat spray. Don’t overdo this.
8. Let the clear coat dry, apply one extra coat.
9. Let the decal sheet dry overnight.
10. You now have a decal sheet that’s almost as good as the official ones.
11. You just need to cut each and every decal with the exacto knife… have fun
12. There’s also white decal paper…
Paint inside of armor
Panel lines using enamel or acrylic
wash
Get enamel paint (usually grey, black
or brown)
Piece must have glossy finish.
1. Thin the paint with lighter fluid at a 3:2
fluid:paint ratio
2. With a small paintbrush, get a good
amount of paint and place it on the
panel. The paint will just flow
3. Continue doing this for the rest of the
panels on the piece
Panel lines using enamel wash
1. Let the piece dry for a few minutes
2. Clean the excess using a cotton
swab dipped in lighter fluid.
Better Clear Parts
1. Get Pledge floor polish (formerly known as Future Floor polish)
2. Pour some in a container
3. Dip transparent pieces into container
4. Cover the container
5. Remove the pieces very gently. Watch for air bubbles.
6. Let the excess drip away and cover the piece to avoid dust landing on it.
7. Excess can be removed with rubbing alcohol
Better Tinted parts
Instead of stickers that go on clear
pieces, use clear-colored paints.
Available in most common colors.
Gives a nice extra shine.
Clear-colored paints can also be
used for high-gloss finish. We’ll talk
about it later in this panel.
Contests (Part 1)
Fun and great way to learn
more about model building.
But if you go to a contest with the wrong expectations, it can
be stressful.
Your friends and family will
always tell you your Gundam is
the best. They’re not objective
Doing tons of (imperfect) modifications to a model
doesn’t guarantee winning a
contest.
Doing tons of (PERFECT)
modifications to a model will likely get you to the top of the
contest
Normally, a PERFECT model
without fancy modifications will
beat an imperfect model with
tons of modifications.
Masking
Use masking tape to protect
painted surfaces while
airbrushing.
Tamiya Masking tape is great.
Great for
Camouflage
Painting the interior of
armor pieces
Adding detail to pieces
Along panel lines, to have 2
similar color shades
Masking
1. Paint the first color. Let it dry
overnight
2. Cut the masking tape pieces to
the shape you need.
3. Place the masking tape. Make
sure it sticks all the way.
4. Paint the next color. Do quick,
light coats, to avoid building a
paint edge
5. Remove the masking tape
carefully.
Be careful when masking…
Use only masking tape.
Don’t cut the tape while on
the piece, or you could scratch the piece.
When removing the tape, do it
very slowly and carefully.
Don’t let a masked piece sit for
days (or weeks, or months… or
years)
Alcad II
1. Prime pieces with Tamiya Gloss
black spray.
2. Airbrush Alclad II normally
3. Let it dry overnight
4. At this point, you can polish the
finish, you can apply decals,
weather the piece, etc.
5. DON’T clear coat. That would
hide the metallic finish
High Gloss finish
Nicely done glossy parts or
models can look very nice.
As usual, planning is key
Paint a couple of glossy pieces
to contrast with the rest of the
model. Example: head crown.
Or you can go all the way with
some of the most colorful
Mobile suits, like any of Char
Aznable’s Red Mobile Suits.
High gloss and pearl finish
1. Apply a wet coat of the base
glossy color. Repeat if needed.
2. Apply a wet coat of the same
color in its clear version. Repeat if
needed.
3. Apply a wet clear gloss coat.
Repeat if needed
4. Apply decals
5. Apply a final clear gloss coat.
Let the parts dry for at least 30
minutes between same color
coats
Let the parts dry overnight before
applying the next color.
Coat and immediately cover the
piece to protect it from dust.
For a “Low visibility” look, apply the
decals BEFORE the colored-clear
coat (step 2)
You can follow the same steps
when using Pearl paints.
Marble paint1. Apply a wet coat of the base
glossy color
2. Using a brush, dip it in thinned
black paint, clean it a bit, and
apply paint in random patterns
over the pieces. Make sure not to
over do it.
3. Repeat to darken some spots.
4. You can also use a sponge.
5. Apply a gloss clear coat, then
decals, then another clear coat.
Candy coat paint
1. Prime with a wet coat of Gloss
black
2. Spray paint a wet coat of Metallic
Silver
3. Spray paint a coat of clear color
(blue, red, green, yellow).
Optional: polish in between coats
Dry brushing
Adds metallic highlights to show
some wear and tear
Best results are on a completely
finished piece.
Dip brush in metallic paint. Start
with a medium or dark metallic.
1. Clean brush with a piece of paper
until brush is almost dry but still has
some pigment
2. Gently brush around the edges
you want to highlight
3. Repeat with progressively lighter
tones, and covering less area
(more focused in the raised areas).
4. Gunmetal -> metallic grey ->
aluminum -> gloss silver.
Paint chipping
Similar to dry brushing.
Instead of a brush, use the
corner of a sponge.
Apply in random patterns. Be
careful not to overdo this.
Similar to drybrushing, start with
a darker color, then move to
adding highlights with
aluminum or silver.
Adding dirt, rust, snow, dust
Easiest way is to get a
weathering kit and just follow
the instructions.
Tamiya weathering kit is pretty
nice, and comes with an
applicator.
Just like with all other
weathering techniques, be
very careful not to overdo it
Paint chipping using salt
Most realistic paint-chipping,
though easy to over-do.
1. Pick a contrasting metallic color (if
the top color is lighter, use a
darker metallic and viceversa)
2. Prime
3. Paint with the metallic tone
4. Let it dry overnight
5. Use an old brush, dip it in water,
then in salt, then apply in the
areas you want to chip
Paint chipping
Some salt will fall, some will stay,
this helps the random patterns
Let it dry for a couple of hours.
Airbrush/spray paint the top color
Let it dry overnight
Remove the salt: rub with your
fingers, sand it off, etc.
Use other weathering techniques
to blend the look.
Battle Damage
Plan carefully before you start.
Sketch what you want to do in
Photoshop or similar software
Decide what type of damage
you want:
Blunt weapons
Bullets
Explosions
Energy beams
Energy saber
Battle Damage tools
Hobby knives
Soldering Iron
Sandpaper
Dremel power tool
Bullet Holes
1. Mark the places for the bullet
holes
2. Use a drill bit to start the holes. Not all holes need to go all the
way through.
3. Create fractures around the
hole by CAREFULLY using a
xacto knife
Energy blasts
1. Open the holes with a drill bit
or Dremel, similar to the bullet
holes
2. Open fractures around the
hole, similar to the bullet holes
3. Melt the plastic around the
holes using a soldering iron. Be
very careful not to overdo this.
4. Don’t breathe the fumes
Beam saber cuts
1. Mark where the cuts will be
2. Follow the lines with the
soldering iron.
3. Depending on how much of
the melting vs cutting effect
you want, either do a quick
pass, or slowly bunch up some
of the plastic around the
edges.
Blunt damage
Damage by collision with a blunt
object or hand to hand combat
Armor is not perforated, jut bent
Easy to do with power tools, but
also easy to overdo and end up
with a hole in the armor.
Best pieces to do this are curved,
spherical pieces, shields, etc.
Also possible to do using
sandpaper, it just takes longer.
Blunt damage
1. Use a power tool with a drill bit
or a sanding bit to start
depressing the piece.
2. Move slowly and make sure
you don’t poke a hole thru the
piece
3. Blend the main depression with
the rest of the piece with the
power tool, so it doesn’t look
like a cavity, but a deformation on the armor.
4. Use sandpaper to blend
everything in.
Exposing inner detail
MGs and RGs include skeletons.
The detail in them is nice, though
not perfect
Exposing inner detail from the
skeletons is not as simple as
removing the armor pieces.
As usual, plan what you want to
expose, and based on that you
can estimate the amount of work.
Depending on the skeleton
sections you want to expose, the
pre-existing detail may be
enough.
Exposing inner detail
Removing a complete piece or
sections usually exposes the
pins and holes in the plastic
pieces.
To make the gundam look
“realistic” you need to hide
these pins and holes, and add
any detail wherever it may be
lacking.
There’s no single way to enhance the exposed pieces.
Here are some ideas:
Exposing inner detail
Cut and sand out the pins
Use putty to fill in the holes
Get some network cables, get
the small wires out of the
cable, peel out some of the
cover to expose the wire, and
stuff them in the holes.
Use your spare Gundam pieces
and attach to areas lacking
detail.
Drybrushing, paint chipping,
panel lines, styrene panels, etc.
Depending on the reason why
the piece is exposed, add
more or less weathering or
battle damage.
Maybe the skeleton is
exposed for regular
maintenance, or just for
display.
Or maybe it’s exposed due to battle damage.
Dioramas
The sky is the limit
Plenty of resources to get
started at any hobby shop:
1. Finished and unfinished bases
on different sizes and types of
terrain
2. Trees and vegetation
3. Rocks
4. Buildings
5. People
The key for a good diorama is
to blend all the elements together in a cohesive and
harmonious way
Use the techniques for
painting, weathering, battle
damage, etc to achieve these
effects
Barbatos Display base
Contests
Fun and great way to learn
more about model building.
But if you go to a contest with the wrong expectations, it can
be stressful.
Your friends and family will
always tell you your Gundam is
the best. They’re not objective
Doing tons of (imperfect) modifications to a model
doesn’t guarantee winning a
contest.
Doing tons of (PERFECT)
modifications to a model will likely get you to the top of the
contest
Normally, a PERFECT model
without fancy modifications will
beat an imperfect model with
tons of modifications.
Contests
Be consistent in your finish:
If you’re going for “new” look,
don’t do weathering, keep panel
lines discreet, use glossy finish, etc.
For the weathered look, make sure
you don’t forget to weather some
spots, like the bottom of the
Gundam feet. Don’t try to hide
imperfections with heavy
weathering.
Be consistent on hiding or showing
panel lines
Make sure the finish is clean of any
glue, or putty drops.
Use latex gloves to avoid leaving
fingerprints everywhere
Be consistent when painting the
inside or armor, especially the
edges.
NO transparent stickers, and use
foil stickers only where the edges
will be hidden.
Clear film on decals or dry transfers
must be completely blended.
(gloss coat, decal, gloss coat, final
coat)
Contests
Don’t do extras half-way
If you add a display base, make
sure your Gundam “blends with it”
If you expose the inner frame,
modify or hide the pins/holes, and
add mechanical detail.
If you add custom LEDs, hide all
wiring.
But most important, build for you, not for the judges
Scribing new panel lines
RG, newer MG and newer PG
don’t really need this.
Older, larger MG and PG could benefit from this.
Most Larger HG could benefit
from this.
Significant planning and work
required.
Scribing panel lines
1. Draw the design on the piece. This
may be easier on a primed piece
2. Use thick masking tape along the
larger panel lines
3. Use a small scriber knife to start
scribing, using the masking tape as
a guide
4. Switch to a larger knife to finish the
panel
5. Sand around in case there’s any
plastic sticking out.
Adding styrene sections
Similar to scribing new panels, it’s
probably not necessary on newer
models.
Brings life to large, flat pieces
Styrene pieces
1. Plan the design you want
2. Get the styrene sheet in the
proper thickness.
3. Draw the design on the styrene
sheet
4. Cut the styrene pieces
5. Sand the edges
6. Glue the styrene on top of the
Gundam pieces. Make there are
no gaps or glue sticking out.
7. If needed fill any gaps, clear any
glue, sand down any remaining
imperfections, etc.
Answer a Question, Get a
Gundam!
Resin Parts
Resin casting allows some
additional detail compared to
regular plastic injection.
Plenty of Resin kits to improve
the look on your Gundams:
More detailed parts
Conversion Parts to modify a
model and turn it into a
variation.
Resin conversions are
expensive
Difficult to work with resin
Pieces need lots of cleaning
Dust from pieces is highly toxic
Must use Glue
Usually impairs Gundam’s
poseability
Resin Parts
The day you buy a Resin
conversion, the rumors start
about an official Bandai
release
The day you start working on your Resin conversion, Bandai
officially announces a release
The day you complete your
Resin conversion, Bandai
releases the same model, with
better detail and infinitely easier to build
Resources
http://angelmex.net
http://www.gundamkitscollection.com/2015/02/painted-build-neo-grade-
160-msn-04.html
http://www.hobbylink.tv/hlj-gundam-battle-damage-weathering-tutorial
http://codyscoop.com/ht-damages.html
http://www.hobbylink.tv/hlj-gundam-battle-damage-weathering-tutorial
http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/ipmsusa-competition-
handbook#booknode-2037
Q & A
http://angelmex.net