Build Summary

Building Summary 1DH 103 Sea Hornet

DH 103 Hornet A Building Guide

Fliteskin ProductsScale: 1:5.4 100 Wingspan

Courtesy of www.StrictlyScale.com


Table of Contents

Item Page

Notes . x

Major Items ..... x

Nacelles . x

Wing . x

Stab / Rudder. x

Fuse . x

Assembly . x

Finish . x

Flying . x


Notes

This Guide is intended as just that, a GUIDE! Its an account of my build

of this model and some suggestions and tips along the way that other

modellers may, or may not, find useful for their build of this model.

There are many different ways to tackle this build, and its suggested that

you continue to read ahead during your build so each step is clearly

understood.


Major Components Required

This is a list of the major items I used in my build. This list is a guide, as it will change based on builders preferences.

$2Radio ShackFor twin sync sensor, pt 64-189513/16"dia. Rare Earth super magnets

$8Radio ShackFor onboard glow, pt 23-1241C size 1.2V/2000mAh nicad battery

$2Radio ShackPart number 270-4022Onboard glow battery holder

$6Maxx ProductsReplace plugs with Fut conn. Use to charge onboard nicads - pt ACC125B1Glow Plug socket

$10Maxx ProductsRemote glow plug clip (replace alligator clip on twin sync glow) - pt ACC1332Glow Plug connector

$30Dymond ModelsportSwitch harness 'remove before flight' - pt 106252On board glow charge switch

$25Tower HobbiesDubro2Fuel Fill Valves

$50RC ShowcaseTwin engine glow drivers1RCS Twin Sync Glow Drivers

$100RC ShowcaseTwin engine synchronizer ver 2.01RCS Twin Sync

$240Air HobbiesAir Hobbies2Mufflers

$166Fliteskin ProductsGene Barton Aluminum turned2Spinners

$36Hobby Lobby24.5 oz. Graupner2Fuel Tanks

$600MVVS NetherlandsMVVS 1.60 w/o muffler2Engines

Est. PriceSourceDescriptionQtyItem

Power System



$21Sierra Precision1/4" Clamp Control Horn2Elevator Control Horns

Tower HobbiesRobart - 3/16" Hinge PointsHinges

$170Fliteskin ProductsFliteskin2 + 1Wing and Stab Skin

$19TNT1" dia aluminum 2Wing Tubes

$275Fliteskin ProductsLaser cut partssetBalsa & Ply cut parts

Inc.VicRCF/G Nacelles2Nacelles


Wing & Stab

$50Sierra PrecisionOffset bomb bay door hinges8Gear door hinges

$13Tower HobbiesRobart large air tank, pt 1921Air accessories

$34Tower HobbiesRobart large air kit, pt 157VR1Air accessories

$8Hobby Lobby2.5" Light Wheel, pt HLFK16221Wheel - Tail

TBATailwheel retract unit1Retract - Tail

$550Shindin MachineMain Retracts and legs2Retract - Main

$54Tower Hobbies6" Sullivan Skylite2Wheels - Main


Landing Gear



$40Vanguard VancouverV'formed clear canopy1Canopy

$490VicRCF/G Fuse, tail, and belly pan1Fuselage


Fuselage

inc.Fliteskin ProductsWing Blisters 1Formed Parts

Vanguard VancouverNav light lenses1Formed Parts

$29Fliteskin ProductsInstrument Panel and Wheel Hubs1G10 Details

$50Details4ScaleRetractable landing light for wing1Landing Light

$100ElectrodynamicsElectrodynamics1Navigation Lights

$49Solo Props1 blade to use for a mold1Static Prop - Reverse rot.

$33Solo Props1 blade to use for a mold1Static Prop - Normal rot.

$35Fliteskin ProductsV'formed white abs2Static Spinners

-eBay1:6 RAF Blue Box Toys 1Pilot

Fliteskin ProductsPictures1Photo CD$75

Fliteskin ProductsRolled1Plans

Est. PriceSourceDescriptionQty / SetItem

Misc. & Optional



$27Tower HobbiesHitec 1600 mAh 4.8 V NiCad24.8V Battery

$63Tower HobbiesFutaba - S3305 Std BB High Torque - 99 oz-in2Servo - Flaps

$63Tower HobbiesFutaba - S3305 Std BB High Torque - 99 oz-in2Servo - Ailerons

$32Tower HobbiesFutaba - S3305 Std BB High Torque - 99 oz-in1Servo - Elevator

$90Tower HobbiesFutaba - S9151 Digital Rudder - 132oz-in1Servo - Rudder/Tailwheel

$20Tower HobbiesFutaba - S3001 Standard BB - 44oz-in1Servo - Retracts/Air Valve

$40Tower HobbiesFutaba - S3001 Standard BB - 44oz-in2Servo - Throttle

$130Tower HobbiesFutaba - R148DP1RX


Radio

take your time, and enjoy building your new Hornet


Some Components Used in My Build

MVVS 1.60 cu.in. glow engines. One CW and one CCW rotation. Mounted on Air Hobbies muffler/mount combo.

Main gear retracts from Shindin Machine. Also shown is Sullivan Skylite 6wheel.



Laser cut balsa and ply parts from Bob Holman.



Fiberglass Fuselage and Nacelles from Fliteskin.com.



Graupner Fuel Tanks from Hobby Lobby. These are 24oz tanks that are stubby to fit nicely in the nacelles.

Canopy from Vance at Vanguard R/C.



TwinSync 2.0 from RCS. Also added are the optional glow drivers.

Aluminum Spinners from Fliteskin.com.


Engine Test Stand

Before mounting the engines in the model I built a test stand to test them. This also confirmed tank position, inverted running, and Twinsync operation.


Nacelle Construction

Nacelle Construction begins with the layout of all parts. If something appears to be missing contact Fliteskin.com.

Tape Nacelle parts together to ensure a good fit. Its a good idea to do this a few times before adding any glue.



Note: When laying out parts and taping together, ensure you aremaking one PORT and one STARBOARD nacelle.

On part N2 Inboard and Outboard, ignore the 5 small 1/8 dia holes near the firewall. They were for potential engine mounts on the prototype.

Note incorrect location of one of the servo tray slots, resulting in an angled servo tray. This tray alignment has been correct and can be repositioned or even moved as the builder sees fit. It is easier to mount the throttle servo once the engine is mounted to ensure good alignment of control rod.



Make sure you are making one PORT and one STARBOARD nacelle!

Nacelle boxes taped together to check fit and plan internal placement of components.



When satisfied with fit, laminate N4 to N4.

Also Laminate N1 to N1b, and laminate two Front Mountstogether.

The longer leg goes Outboard.

These holes are for mounting the nacelle to the wing later in assembly.



On my model I had to move the firewall back. First mark out then cut sides to suit. I also made new firewalls out of Aircraft ply.



Retract rails are cut 6 long from x hardwood rails. The location of these are marked on each side panel.

Make sure you are making one PORT and one STARBOARD nacelle!



Retract rails are attached along marks previously drawn.

Nacelles are dry fitted then glued together and new firewalls installed.



For extra security, firewalls are doweled with 1/8 dia dowels and sanded flush.

Drill

Peg & Glue

Sand Flush



Hole added to clear air line fitting. Note this hole is not on C/L.

Retracts test fitted on rails.

Fitting.



Retracts fitted to check clearance with wheels. At this point they arent mounted. Final alignment and drilling will come later.



Fuel tanks are fitted next. Check carb level to ensure they are set at the correct height.

On mine that was 1.5 below the thrust line of the engines. The thrust line is marked on the nacelles.

I had to build up the edge of my nacelle to lower the floor. Ill add the floor later. Until then a temporary 1/4sq. cross brace is tack glued in place.



Next step is to mount the engine along the thrust line. Also shown are 2 pictures showing engine/tank/retract layout. The rest of the nacelle construction will come once the nacelle is fitted to the wing.


Wing Construction

The wing construction begins with framing up the center section between the nacelles.

The first component required is the main spar. The main spar is a sandwich of 1/8 ply/balsa/ply lamination capped with 3/8 sq. hardwood top and bottom.

The ply spars came laser cut and the balsa filling was cut

from a new sheet of 1/8

balsa as shown.


Wing Construction

The spar is laid up and pressed under heavy weight while curing. Once cured the balsa filling is trimmed and edges sanded smooth. Main spar is ready for installation.

1

2

3


Wing Construction

Trim 1/8 off the tab on the front of ribs W00.

Once trimmed laminate together. You could also reverse these steps.


Wing Construction

Lengthen notch in W4 to slide over main spar. Pic shows one cut and the second ready to cut.

Lengthen notch in W2 to slide over rear spar.


Wing Construction

Trim front of W3 to fit sq spar. Dont glue yet.

Start to assemble one half of the center section. Check all fits and alignment. Make adjustments were needed. Use 3/8 sq. basswood to support main spar.


Wing Construction

The spar requires a strip of 3/8 sq. bass wood epoxied to the bottom prior to assembly of the ribs.

The flaps are driven via a 1/4 x .035 wall aluminum tube. This tube runs in a 9/32 x .014 wall brass tube sleeve. To install, open the holes in W0-W5 to 5/16 or greater. Make one sleeve 6.5long and the other 9.5 long.


Wing Construction

TIP: Install the aluminum and brass tubes at this stage of the construction. Dont glue yet, but get them installed. Once the ribs are glued in it will be VERY difficult to install this flap torque tube.


Wing Construction

Four 1/8 ply flap actuating tube supports are made and attached.

Glue one on each rib closest to the ends of both brass tubes.

Be careful not to get any glue on the aluminum tube.


Wing Construction

Here are a couple pictures of our progress so far. Both sides of the center section have the basic framing, rear of the main spar, complete.

Note that the rear spar has been glued in place, as has the rear wing mounting plate, item W20. In front of W20 run square spruce spars. Not installed yet.

TIP: Install air tank now.


Wing Construction

Once the centers section is framed up out to the outer most ribs on the main spar, the outer panels can be built.

Some of the panel components collected. The 1 dia wing tube is cut to 11long, and aluminum anti-rotation pin is dia alum tube cut 4 long.


Wing Construction

Four (2 per wing panel) x hardwood blocks are cut for the wing tube bolts. These will be glued in later, then drilled and tapped to hold the wing panels to the center section.

Notch the end of the spruce spar to fit W18. I did this on the bottom only. On the top I deepened the slot in W18 for the sq. top spar.


Wing Construction

Start framing the outer panels using the lower spar as a guide and gluing the top spars in place.

Open tube holes in W8-W12 to 1-1/8 dia and glue in tube socket. Also insert and glue in the aluminum anti-rotation pin.


Wing Construction

Once lower panels are framed up, they are to be joined to the center section. Carefully slide outer panel in to center section overlapping spars with the main spar.

Before gluing, check and recheck alighnment, etc. Use a long straight edge along the top of the wing from the center to the tip to ensure the wing top is flat.


Wing Construction

Once aligned and rear spars tacked in place, add the 3/8 sq. hardwood main spar cap. Also epoxy the spruce sq spars that overlap at this point.

This is the time when I added the air tank. However, it would not have required rib removal to install had I done it in a previous step.


Wing Construction

The nacelles are lined up next by sitting them flat on the work bench. In order for the main spar to slide into the nacelle box the slot is opened up on the outboard side. Dont glue the nacelle box to the spar.


Wing Construction

The rear of each nacelle box is mounted with

two -20 nylon bolts. Attached pictures show

this arrangement as well as the tapped ply

blocks made up to accept the

bolts.

Be cautious not to glue the bolts

in when attaching the

threaded blocks.


Wing Construction

With the nacelle boxes aligned correctly open the three 1/8 diamounting holes to 3/16 dia.

Mount the nacelle boxes with three 8-32 bolts with washers and blind nuts behind the spar. Use a drop of glue to ensure the blind nuts dont fall out if the bolt is removed.

Note, later I decided to add two more 6-32 bolts to this mounting scheme.

Read ahead to add this now.


Wing Construction

Take the four hardwood wing bolt blocks (1)and epoxy on the inside of W9 and W10 (2). Mark the center points (3)over the C/L of the wing tube. Drill and tap all four blocks for 6-32 wing bolts (4). The wing tube will be added and drilled and tapped to accept the 6-32 bolts later in construction.

21

3 4


Wing Construction

With the wing assembled, install the remaining stringers, including the ones in the leading edge air vent as shown.


Wing Construction

Next the aileron servo mounts are cut

and mounted. Starting with a card

template, then cut out of ply.

Note that the upper spar is cut away to fit

the servo mount. After mounting the spar is reinstalled.

While out of the wing its easier to drill and

test fit the servo.

21

3 4


Wing Construction

The aileron pivot wire and

tube is installed next. First a

notch is ground out in each rib

(1) to accept the 3/16 dia brass

tube. Nine balsa blocks are

made (2) with 3/16 dia hole in

the center. These are added

on the side of each rib (3) as

shown and then sanded smooth

(4).

21

3 4


Wing Construction

Now is a good time install the retractable

landing light. Its available from

Details4Scale.com and has been modified for

4.8V power.

I decided to make the ply mount removable as shown. The unit is glued to the ply base

and the base is attached with six

small screws.


Wing Construction

I decided to drive to drive the retraction off an air

cylinder. It will likely have its own dedicated valve as I want it to retract when the flaps come down, and the

flaps are servo driven. With the force of the air on the lens I felt a small servo

would not be strong enough.

The on/off of the light is driven by a

micro switch. Ill trigger this with the end of the air valve or

even servo later.


Wing Construction

While the wing is open its time to hook up the flap servo. A servo

tray is made from ply and mounted in the center of the wing. The

aluminum torque tube we installed earlier is tapped for a 6-32 bolt to act as a control horn. Note that

the pushrod is in line with the center of the

servo when at full flap deflection.


Wing Construction

The outer horns on the flap torque tube are also drilled and tapped for 6-32 bolts. Its important to use loctite on the bolts and nuts to ensure they dont

come loose later. Note the wood dowel at each end of the torque tube. This is to ensure the tube remains centered. A heavy-duty clevice is also tapped for 6-

32 and shown in the right hand picture. Once the flaps are mounted the pushrods will be made up and installed. This will also be shown later.


Wing Construction

There are two separate air valves in the wing. One for the retracts, and the other for the retracting landing light. These are mounted on a piece of 1/8 ply as shown. A couple hardwood rails are mounted on the underside to give the servo screws something to bite into. Note the taper on one of the rails to avoid the spar.


Wing Construction

The picture on the left shows the linkages hooked up to the valves. The silver Ultra

Precision valve is for the retracts. The Robartvalve is for the landing light and tied into the flap channel. Note the micro switch that is activated

by the end of the Robart valve. This is to turn the landing light on and off electrically. See pics

below for clarity.

Light On Light Off


Wing Construction

Before skinning the wing we need to do all the wiring/plumbing.


Wing Construction

Starting with the air system, I run the lines from the valves to the retract locations in the nacelle bay, as well as the landing light out in the wing panel. I like to run my air and servo leads in cardboard tubes. This keeps them all nice an bundled together.

Where there are no tubes I use small plastic ties to keep the wires together.

TIP: To help push wires through the tubes, use a piece of music wire with the lead taped to the end of it. Feed the music wire through pulling the lead with it.


Wing Construction

The wires for the navigation lights are run out to the wing tips and clipped in place

for access later in the build.

Note the wires running through the nacelle area are near the top surface to

clear the landing gear.


Wing Construction

Starting to get busy. Just take your time to make good connections make sure there is no stress on the wires. Also make sure they are clear of any mechanics.

Note the use of plastic ties to keep all the wires together. Also in this

picture are 1sq mounting bases that the ties can loop into to keep the

loom of wires out of the way.

B

a

s

e

&

T

i

e


Wing Construction

I like to make all my own leads and use Ashlok connectors where I can to minimize the number of connections. They are available in various pin counts from Ashtek Electronics.

This 12-pin connector is the only electrical connection between the wing and the fuse. It carries the elevator and rudder servo leads, tail nav light, and

battery/switch connection (the RX is in the wing) all from the wing to the fuse.


Wing Construction

Five of the 6 pins in a 6-pin Ashlokconnector are used in the left wing

panel break for the aileron servo and tip navigation light.

An 8-pin Ashlok connector is used in the right wing panel break for the

aileron servo, tip navigation light, and landing light. The air lines in this

picture are for landing light retraction.


Wing Construction

Once the Twin Sync is setup it really

shouldnt need to be played with. In the case it is needed to be seen to trouble

shoot, Ive mounted it in one of the open wing bays and will

make a hidddenhatch for access to it

once the wing is skinned.

Again, note the use of plastic ties on the wiring to keep it in

order.Note on newer versions of the plan, this spar runs into the nacelle box for optional added strength.


Wing Construction

The retract fill valve is mounted underneath the wing near the air tank. The valve is set on a piece of 1/8 ply and attached just below

the surface of the wing. Once skinned, a hole will be cut in the wing to access the fill valve.


Wing Construction

While there is still access inside the wing, Ive

added some balsa for the carb intakes between ribs

8 and 10. These will be

carved out later in the build. Note

rib 9 needs to be trimmed

back to allow for the

balsa block.

2

1

3 4


Wing Construction

A sq balsa block is added out at the port tip for the later installation of the pitot tube. Two locations because the location of the pitot varies depending on the version of Hornet you build. Inner for Sea Hornet

F.Mk.20, N.F.Mk.21, and P.R.Mk.22. Outer for Hornet F.Mk.1/3/4 and P.R.Mk.2.

A hard balsa block and a hardwood block is added in the gap between the

center section and outer panels. This will act as a bumper when sliding on the

panels.


Wing Construction

Next 3/32 balsa shear webs are added between the spars

as shown on the plans.


Wing Construction

Balsa leading edges are added. The final 1/8 strip will be added after the skinning of

the wing.

Balsa leading edge is added to the air intakes and sanded round as shown on

the plans.


Wing Construction

Attention now turns to fitting out the nacelle boxes. First the mounting of the engines and the main gear retracts (shown below).


Wing Construction

Fuel tank installed above, being snuggedin by a couple pieces of balsa. Before

installing the tank, make sure the retract air line is pulled through from the air

cylinder (its the red line in the picture).

The air line is then fed back through the bulkhead making sure it wont kink

(circled). Also shown is the installed throttle servo and Hobby Lobby pushrod transfer linkage stiffened up with some

hardwood rails (in hexagon) .


Wing Construction

Shown above are the manual remote glow (that you can plug into from your flight box for starting) connection mounted on the side of the nacelle box. Also shown is the Hobby Lobby pushrod transfer apparatus. Its designed to avoid bending pushrods as they exit the fuselage. It will work well here, I hope, as the carb arm is awkward to get to from the servo.


Wing Construction

Additional Engine control wiring. ** Note Ashlok connector is used here as the nacelle box is made to be removable.

AshlokConnector **

Lead to onboard battery

Onboard glow control

module

Ground lead on engine

mount

Lead to RPM sensor

Glow plug lead

Fuel line to Carb.


Wing Construction

Glow plug clip attached. Also in this picture you can see the exhaust port of the muffler

(copper tube).

Rechargeable on board glow battery mounted to

nacelle box bulkhead.


Wing Construction

While it proably isnt necessary, for peace of mind I

added two 6-32 bolts in the nacelle boxes as shown. They

run into ply blocks in the neighboring ribs with blind

nuts.


Wing Construction

The air inlets in the wing are cut and fitted from

1/8 ply.

Then they were covered in

flitemetal (or any smooth material)

and rubbed smooth.

After painting them flat black, mesh wire form

was cut to simulate the mesh grills.


Wing Construction

And the finished product ready for installation during final

assembly.


Wing Construction

An important step in preparing the wing for skinning is to sand all the

ribs and spars flush. A long sanding bar works very will for this.

As you sand youll see the sanded areas (high areas) turn a light color. The dark

areas are low spots (circled). Sand until as much of the wing is a light color. Some

small low spots are OK as they will be filled in with the expanding glue.


Wing Construction

Once sanding is complete its time to start skinning the wing. For this we will use 0.010thick Flite Skin and adhere it to the wing with

Elmers Nano glue.


Wing Construction

First align and trim the Flite Skin to the desired size. FS cuts easily

with scissors or a sharp blade.

Pin sheet in a few spots and mark the location of all the spars, ribs, etc that will contact the Flite Skin sheet.


Wing Construction

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