Bucharest - In Your Pocket - April-May 2010

8/8/2019 Bucharest - In Your Pocket - April-May 2010

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Old Town/LipscaniIn Your PocketA12-page special onBucharests Old Town, the

area also known as Lipscani

Goran BregovicJust one of many top acts

scheduled to play

Bucharest this spring

N64 - 12.00 leibucharest.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BUCHAREST

April - May 2010

In Your Pocket:A cheeky, well-

written series of guidebooks.

The New York Times


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3Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

April - May 2010bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Basics 6Everything you wanted to know about Bucharest

and Romania, but were afraid to ask

Culture & Events 9IncludingChildrens Bucharest, page 11

Where to Stay 13From palaces of gold to flea pits

Restaurants 24Where to eat, and where to get food poisoning

Contents

Cafes 43So many, weve given them their own chapter

Nightlife 46Clubs, bars, pubs and the like

Sightseeing

What to see 54Where to spend your days

Old Town/Lipscani 58The heart and soul of the city

Getting around 70Planes, trains & Automobiles

Shopping & Directory 74Everything from malls and souvenirs to

accountants, realtors to dentists

Maps & Street RegisterNorthern Bucharest 78

Central & Southern Bucharest 80

Street Register 82

That man Goran Bregovic is in Bucharest again with hisunique mix of music and art, this time at the Zone Arenaon May 20th. Bregovic is just one of many big acts hittingthe capital this spring: see our full Culture & Eventslistings on page 9 for loads more.

If youd told us two or three years ago that Bucharests

Lipscani area would be the hottest part of town for all

things coffee, beer, cocktails, food, dancing and general

debauchery, then wed have had you certified. The

transformation of the area - which, it should be pointed

out is far from complete - has been amazing. To see how

amazing, check out our special 12-page guide to the

Lipscani area, which begins on page 58.


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4 Foreword

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial

Editor Craig TurpResearcher Anca BucataruPhotography Craig Turp/IYPRomania Srl unless otherwise stated.Cover photo courtesyDreamstime.

Sales

To contact oursales team send anemail to [email protected], or call our office and ask for thesales department.

Copyright notice

Text, photos and maps copyrightIYP Romania Srl 1999-2010 unlessotherwise stated. All rights reserved.No part of this publication may bereproduced in any form, except briefextracts for the purpose of its review,without written permission from thecopyright owner. The trademarkIn YourPocket is used under license from UABIn Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editors note

The editorial content ofIn Your Pocketguides is independent from paid-foradvertising. Advertorials are clearlymarked as such. We welcome all readerscomments and suggestions. We havemade every effort to ensure the accuracyof the information at the time of going topress and assume no responsibility forchanges and errors.

Bucharest In Your PocketStr. Stefan Burileanu 1-3Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8014191 Bucuresti, Romaniatel. (+4) 021 321 44 18

fax (+4) 021 322 25 [email protected]

ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl

Printed at MEGAPress SA, BucharestTel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09

Published six times per year, up to20,000 copies produced each issue

Bucharest In Your Pocket is amember of the Romanian Audit

Bureau of Circulation (BRAT)

We looked rather silly last time out, banging on as

we did about how we were happy the winter snows

had gone for good, only to wake up the day the

guide was published to see yet another huge dump

of the white stuff outside our window. Oh dear. No

more Forewordsabout the weather then...

Instead, a word or two on the ongoing revival of

Bucharests Old Town, orLipscani area. Sure,

many of Lipscanis streets still look as though th ey

are shelled by a besieging army on a regular basis

(and indeed, as dawn breaks on a Sunday morning

and clubbers start making their way home, many

of them look like th eyve been involved in some

almighty battle) but who cares? Everybody loves

Lipscani, and everybody wants a piece of the

action. Thats why it is now such a one-stop-shop

for fun, frolics and food. And thats why this hotbed

of action has - this issue - been hauled out from

the main baulk of our listings and given its own 12-

page feature, on pages 58-69

We welcome your thoughts on this innovation,

and indeed anything about Bucharest, Bucharest

In Your Pocket or Romania in general. You can get

in touch with us at [email protected], or try

our website bucharest.inyourpocket.com , home

to loads more listings and features we simply do

not have room for here in print.

Whatever you do, enjoy Bucharest. It is a cit y

going places. The only problem is that nobody

appears to know exactly where that might be...

One of a number o f expensively-purchasednew clocks which have appeared aroundthe Romanian capital this spring. This oneis atUniversitate.

Cover Story

The year 2010 promises to be another great onehere atIn Your Pocket. We now publish a record58 guides and mini-guides across 22 Europeancountries, with more than four million In YourPocket-branded products printed and distributedannually. The latest to join the list were KranjskaGora and Otep: winter capitals of Sloveniaand Estonia respectively. This year we will also belaunching new guides in Venice, Glasgow, Vienna,Kranj, Celje andBovec, as well as a few other citieswe are keeping a secret for now.

We welcome enquiries from anyone who would liketo take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting up anIYP. Simply send us an email requesting more info:the address is [email protected] .

Europe In Your Pocket


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6 BasiCs


7BasiCs


BasiCs

Crime & SafetyIf you keep your nose clean, Bucharest is safer than manyother cities in Europe. There is almost no violent crime.However, if you go looking for trouble by visiting rough areas,such as Ferentari or Salaj, you will find plenty. Petty crimeon the other hand is a major problem. Pickpockets areubiquitous on public transport, in crowded bars and pubsand even in restaurants (beware that young lad trying tosell you a rose).

EtiquetteIn their own homes, Romanians are by and large fabuloushosts. You had better be hungry, because the food never

In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the citycode, whether calling from a landline or a mobile. You wllbe asked which service you requir e (Politia/Police, Am-bulanta/Ambulance orPompierii/Firemen). Emergencycall centre operators are all meant to speak English orFrench but in our experience they do not always do so. Ifyou can, ask a Romanian to call; at least make sure youknow the name of the street you are calling from.

If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to callyour embassy. There is a full list on pages 75 and 76. Thecitys main police station is the brand new building at(B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021212 56 84.

The bestCasualty Unit (Emergency Room) in thecity is atSpitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8,next to Dinamo Stadium. More details in the Health boxon page 75. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 76,and English speakingDentists on page 75.

When Things Go Wrong

By AirBucharest has two international airports, Otopeni HenriCoanda, and Baneasa Aurel Vlaicu.

Arriving at Otopeni After getting off the plane and eas-ing your way through passport control, youll find yourselfin the baggage reclaim area. Ign ore all of the services onoffer here, be it currency exchange or limousines to thecity centre. Past customs is the a rrivals area, where thereare a couple of ATMs, a small cafe, and car hire desks (toyour right). You will see signs pointin g you towards trainsto Gara de Nord: ignore them. You first have to take a busto the airports train station, and the trains themselves runirregularly. Bus or taxi remains your best bet.

You will be set upon by taxi drivers offering you aride to the city centre: ignore them, they are crooks.Swear at them if you have to: they will eventually getthe message. Outside you will instead find a line up o fshiny, expensive but generally honest taxis. Their cabswill display an Airport sign. A ride to the city centre withone of these smiling Charlies will set you back around130.00 lei (32). That is about three times the cost oftaking a normal Bucharest taxi, from a company suchas Cristaxi (tel. 021-9461) or Meridian (tel. 021-9444),but remember that non-airport taxis are not allowed towait outside the terminal building or in the car park. Youcan call one but you will have to go and meet it at theentrance to the car park.

Instead, the easiest way to get a cheap taxi is simplyto walk through to departures (turn right as you exit bag-gage claim) and take a regular taxi as it drops somebod yoff. There is a regular stream of these and you shouldnever have to wait too long. You can also get to town bytaking bus N 783, which stops underneath the arrivalshall, in front of the internal flights terminal. It leaves forthe city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei, Piata Romanaand Piata Universitatii) every 30 min utes from 05:23 until23:53. Tickets costing 7 lei (valid for two trips) need tobe purchased before boarding from the lit tle booth whichyoull find on your right hand side as you exit the airportbuilding. Another bus, N 780, runs direct from Otopenito Gara de Nord via Baneasa.

Arriving at Baneasa Baneasa is much closer to thecity centre than Otopeni. There is an ATM in arrivals,and avoid the currency exchange booth: a rip-off. Busroutes 131 and 335 stop outside, both terminating atPiata Romana. A standard RATB ticket costing 1.30 leimust be bought before boarding: there is a kiosk nextto the bus stop. Express bus N 780 runs direct fromBaneasa to Gara de Nord, and tickets cost 3.50 lei.Taxis wait outside, but make sure you take one belon gingto a trusted company (see Taxis, page eight). The fareto town should cost no more than 35 lei, and take 15minutes depending on traffic.

By TrainArriving at Gara de Nord If you arrive by train you willarrive at Gara de Nord. It is OK as international railwaystations go, but has the usual collection of gypsies,tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs,shops, kiosks and a McDonalds. To get to town takean honest taxi from outside (beware sharks) or take themetro: you are just two stops away from Piata Victoriei.To get to either ofBucharests airports from Gara deNord, take bus N 780.

Arriving in Bucharest

stops coming. On and on, dish after dish. You must bringsomething: flowers, chocolates or a bottle of good whisky.

You will probably be offered local brandy, uica. MostRomanians love to chat about their country, its politics,problems and history. Dont be surprised if they askyou very direct questions. In all cases, be diplomatic inresponse.

Left LuggageThere are left luggage facilities atGara de Nord, but noluggage lockers. You will find the left luggage counteropposite the Wasteels office, a short walk from theplatforms. The charge is cursory: 4 lei per small bag per

24 hours, 7 lei for a bigger bag. Note that the office keepsirregular hours (with staff taking breaks seemingly willy-nilly),so always make sure there will be someone on hand to giveyou back your bag when you want to pick it up.

There is no left luggage facility at either Otopeni orBaneasa airport.

Local laws & PoliceIf you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good ideato carry at least a photocopy of your passport and drivinglicense. Drinking in publi c (except in designated areas) leaves


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you open to a fine, and note that despite appearances to thecontrary, prostitution remains illegal. If you are arrested askto speak to your embassy for advice.

MoneyRomanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100bani. At the time of writing one leu was equal to 0.25, or0.23. Notes come in denomina tions of 500, 200, 100, 50,10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5 banicoins. The best place to get your hands on Romania n moneyis at an ATM. Avoid currency exchanges (case de schimb) atall costs. If you do have to change cash, do it inside a bank.Credit and debit cards are accepted almost everywhere.

Opening HoursShops open late, and stay open until late; most are open onSundays. Malls stay open until 22:00. Banks are open from09:00-17:00, Monday to Frida y. Museums are usually clo sedat least one day a week (often Mondays). Official institutionskeep short and often bizarre hours, and can guarantee tonever, ever be open when you need them.

Local timeRomania is in the Eastern European Time Zone: GMT+ 2 hours. When it is 12:00 in Bucharest it is 11:00 inBerlin, 10:00 in London, 05:00 in New York and 13:00in Moscow.

PopulationRomania 21,700,000, Bucharest 2,100,000 (both2007 estimates). Ethnic composition: Romanian 89.4%,Hungarian 7.1%, Gypsies 2.1%.

Basic Data

Bucharests taxi drivers have a refreshingly liberalsense of equal opportunities: basically, when it comesto ripping people off, they view anyone as fair game.Locals, foreigners, young, old, male, female: anyone whosteps in the wrong kind of taxi can expect to be well andtruly buggered.

The important thing to remember when getting intoa taxi in this city is that there are two kinds: those which

are operated by a tried and trusted taxi company (good)and independents (bad). The problem is spotting thedifference. By and large, trustworthy taxis are easy tospot as they are emblazoned with the name and phonenumber of the company they are associated with. Tocounter this, the independents have also started toplaster phone numbers (often 9403) over their cars,alongside copy-cat logos that look cunningly like thoseof decent taxi companies. The best way to avoid beingripped off however is to pay careful attention to thetariffs, displayed on the driver and passenger door of alltaxis. There should just now be one single tarifdisplayed,and anything higher than 1.99 lei per kilometre shouldstart alarm bells ringing. Be extra careful aroun dGara de Nord, Baneasa Airport, Bucuresti Mall, PiataUniversitatii, Piata Unirii. To avoid any problems, callone of the taxi companies listed below. If you are in ahotel or restaurant, ask your concierge or waiter/waitressto call a taxi for you. Note tha t we have recently receivedcorrespendence from a trusted source that some dri versof at least one major Bucharest ta xi company have takento pumping the metre (making it charge more). We haveremoved said company from the list below.

If you feel something is a bit suspect in any taxi,note down the drivers number and call his company toreport him.

Trusted taxi companies:Cobalcescu 021 9451Confort 021 9455Cristaxi 021 9461Fly Taxi 021 9440Meridian 021 9444 Mondial 021 9423National 021 9484 Occident 021 9413Prof Taxi 021 9422 Speed 021 9477

Taxi Tactics

ToiletsPublic toilets in Bucharest are few and far between. You arebetter off finding the nearest fast food outlet and purveyingyourself of their facilities. You can also find decent, free toiletsin the citys shopping centres, while you will pay-as-you-pee atGara de Nord and in the Piata Universitatii underpass.

WaterWhile distressed plumbing and rotten pipes mean thatit is not unusual to turn on the tap in Bucharest and see

frightening, mud-coloured gunk spew out, the citys water isfine, and by and large safe to drink. Few people actually dohowever as the bottled variety is far tastier and incrediblycheap. Pay around 2.20 lei for a two-litre bottle.

Classical Music Concerts11.05 TuesdayJoshua BellC-5, Str. Franklin 1-3 (Ateneul Roman).American GrammyAward-winning violinist, who gets to show off his su blime skillsin the wonderful Romanian Atheneum.Q Concert starts20:00. Tickets 200-400 lei from www.eventim.ro, Diverta.

Rock & Pop Concerts08.04 ThursdayCovenantStr. Academiei 19 (Pasajul Victoriei), www.electronik.ro.We make ritual noise, we weave the fabric of d reams..One of our favorite tracks by the Swedish band Covenant,often referred to as the pioneers of future-pop and EBM(electronic body music). For this gig they promised a refinednight with an impeccable soun d. Mix it up with some Bullet,Happy Man and of course, Ritual Noise and were sold.QConcert starts 21:00. Tickets 30 lei from www.myticket.ro,Diverta, Control Club tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61.

10.04 SaturdayEarnest ValentinoB-dul Libertatii 1 (Jet Set Events Hall). The best MichaelJackson tribute act around, we are told. Convinced us atleast. Q Concerts starts 22:00. Tickets 70 lei from www.eventim.ro.

13.04 TuesdayKen Vandermark & Paal Nilssen LoveC-5, Str. Academiei 19 (Pasajul Victoriei), www.control-club.ro. A unique mix of saxophone and clarinet(Vandermark) and percussion and drums (Nilss en-Love). Theduo have been performing together for more than a decade.Q Concert starts 21:00. Tickets 25 lei from Club Control(+4) 0733 92 78 61.

14.04 WednesdayBlurtC-5, Str. Academiei 19 (Pasajul Victoriei), www.control-club.ro. Jazz-rock group founded by poet, saxophonist andpuppeteer Ted Milton. Just to be clear, hes bringing th e sax,not the dummies. Q Concert starts 21:00. Tickets 30 lei

from Control Club, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61.

15.04 ThursdayThe Legendary Pink DotsC-5, Str. Academiei 19 (Pasajul Victoriei), www.control-club.ro. The Netherlands-based band formed in 1980 in theUK, returns to Bucharest with the original and complete line-

up, for the second par t of their Anni versary Tour, marking 30years of activity. Difficult to categorize, their music combineselements of psychedelic rock, avant-garde, neo-folk, experi-mental, well.. you get the picture. A little bit of something foreveryone.QConcert starts 21:00. Tickets 45 lei from ControlClub, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61 (for reservations).

16.04 FridayJoe Lally (of Fugazi)C-5, Str. Academiei 19 (Pasajul Victoriei), www.control-club.ro. Probably best kn own for his work with the Americanpunk band Fugazi. Currently working on his third album withElisa Abela and Emanuele Tomas who will join him on stage

for this event. Opening act is the Romanian band The MonoJacks.Q Concert starts 21:00. Tickets 20 lei from ControlClub tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61.

17.04 SaturdayBrain DamageCalea Rahovei 196 A (Front Club/The Ark). French dubband. For those who dont know, dub is an instrumentalsubgenre of reggae music using different techniques to remixexisting recordings. Interesting enough. Q Concert Starts22:00. Tickets 30-40 lei from www.myticket.ro.


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18.04 SundayBuikaB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului)/(+4) 021315 73 72. One of the most remarkable Latin acts of themoment, Buikas family is originally from Equatorial Guinea.She grew up in Mallorca among gypsies - who imbued in her

flamenco rythms. Her music mixes flamenco and coplas withsoul and jazz.Q Concert starts 19:30. Tickets 65-190 lei

from www.myticket.ro.

18.04 SundayHaggardA-5, Str. Plevnei 61 (The Silver Church). The band com-bines classical music with an extreme form of heavy metal.Dont even ask how many members are in this musical group,we lost count at twelve.Q Concert star ts 20:00. Tickets 65lei from www.eventim.ro.

20.04 TuesdayBoyz II MenB-5, Sala Palatului, Str.Ion Campineanu 28. If you look at sales figures alone, thenthese chaps are the biggest male R&B group of all time. Firsttime performing in these parts. Q Concert starts 19:30.Tickets 95-290 lei from www.myticket.ro.

25.04 SundayDuke Ellington OrchestraB-5, Sala Palatului, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, tel. (+4) 021315 73 72. An event to savour. The Duke himself may be 25years dead, but the band that carries his legacy is perhapsthe greatest of all the big ban ds performing today.Q Concertstarts 20:00. Tickets 80-250 lei from bilete.ro.

25.04 SundayEric MartinA-5, Str. Plevnei 61 (The Silver Church). Not exactly Mr.Big, but the next best thing. One hour and a half of his solopieces as well as the good ol songs he hit the jackpot with,back in the Mr. Big days: Just Take My Hear t, Wild World,To Be With You.Q Concert starts 20:30. Tickets 49-69 lei


02.05 SundayGeorge DalarasC-3, Str. Barbu Vacarescu 164 (Zone Arena). Greek singerwho has been one of his countrys top performers for morethan 40 years. Has sold more than 12 million albums, and iscredited with having been the first performer of any nationalityto have filled an Athens stadium.Q Concert starts 19:30.Tickets 75-350 lei from www.eventim.ro.

09.05 SundayDianne ReevesB-5, Sala Palatului, Str. Ion Campineanu 28. American

jazz singer as well known for live performances as for her

recording career.Q Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 50-250lei from www.bilete.ro.

10.05 MondayThe ToastersStr. Academiei 19(Pasajul Victoriei), www.control-club.ro. One of the mostimportant and influ ential American ska bands formed in 1981and still kicking, reached their peak of commercial successin the late 90s.Q Concert star ts 21:00. Tickets 15 lei fromControl Club, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61 (for reservations).

11.05 TuesdayPharoah Sanders Quartet & Yusef Lateef Quar-tetB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului), tel.(+4) 021 315 73 72. Two great jazz musicians, two greatbands, two great shows for the price of one. Bucharest isindeed a jazzy place this Spring...Q Concert starts 19:30.Tickets 70-350 lei from www.eventim.ro.

15.05 SaturdayMichael CamiloC-5, Str. Franklin 1-3 (Ateneul Roman), tel. (+4) 021315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Pianist and composer fromSanto Domingo, Dominican Republic. Camilo is known as a

great jazz, Latin and classical pianist with superb technicalability, and has played and recorded with many world-famousmusicians.QConcert star ts 20:00. Tickets 150-300 lei fromwww.eventim.ro.

16.05 SundayAC/DCB-6, Piata Constitutiei. Two months to go (as we write) an dalready the country is in a bit of a tiz about this event: couldwell be the gig of the year.Q Concert starts 18:00. Tickets127-477 lei from eventim.ro.

17.05 MondayJohn McLaughlinB-5, Sala Palatului, Str. Ion Campineanu 28. English jazz

fusion guitarist and composer, ranked as one of the bestguitarists of all time. McLaughlin played with Tony Williamssgroup Lifetime and then with Miles Davis on his landmarkelectric jazz-fusion albums In A Silent Way, Bitches Brew,and Jack Johnson.Q Concert star ts 19:30. Tickets 50-300lei from www.myticket.ro.

19.05 WednesdayJon SecadaB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului), tel. (+4)021 315 73 72. Multi-award winning Cuban-American singerand songwriter. Will be in town to promote his latest work,Expressions.Q Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 65-250 lei


20.05 ThursdayGoran BregovicC-3, Str. Barbu Vacarescu 164 (Zone Arena). Serb musi-cian whose eclectic mis of sounds brings the house downwhenever he plays in Romania, and not without reason. Abrilliant showman, with a brilliant band and a brilliant nightout guaranteed. Q Concert starts 19:30. Tickets 75-350lei from www.eventim.ro.

25.05 TuesdayAl Di MeolaB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu28 (Sala Palatului). The American jazz fusion and Latin jazzguitarist is not at his first visit in Romania, this time joinedby the New World Sinfonia group. Q Concert starts 20:00.Tickets 80-250 lei from www.myticket.ro, Diverta.

29.05 SaturdayIsmail YKB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului), tel. (+4)021 315 73 72. A Turkish German pop singer and composer.YK stand for Yurtseven Kardeler, the group he was a memberof at the star t of his career.Q Concert star ts 20:00. Tickets80-500 lei from www.eventim.ro.

Special Events11.04 SundayKings On Ice - Olympic TourB-dul Basarabia 35 (Mihai Flamaropol skating rink). Figure skating world champion Evgeni Plushenko meetsviolinist Edvin Marton for a rather unique show - on ice, ofcourse. Former world ice skating champion Stephane Lambielwill also be taking part. Q Tickets 120-250 lei from www.myticket.ro, Diverta.

14.04 WednesdaySwan Lake on IceB-5, Sala Palatului, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, tel. (+4) 021315 73 72. Exactly what it says: a rendition of th e ballet SwanLake, on ice. Performed by the ice ballet of St. Petersburg.QConcert starts 19:00. Tickets 70-200 lei from bilete.ro.

27.04 TuesdayJazzing FlamencoB-5, Sala Palatului, Str. Ion Campineanu 28. The work ofdancer and choreographer Antonio Najarro, this is very muchexactly what is says: an electric mix of flamenco dance and

jazz music. Q Performance star ts 19:30. Tickets 75-190 lei from www.myticket.ro.

31.05 MondayMichael Flatleys Lord Of TheDanceB-5, Sala Palatului, Str. Ion Campineanu 28,tel. (+4) 021 315 73 72. Foot tapping, high kicking Irishmusical and dance production created and choreographed byIrish-American dancer Michael Flatley. Though Flatley remainsproducer and artistic director, he no longer performs in theshow. Q Performance starts 20:00. Tickets 100-350 lei

from www.bilete.ro.

Arenele Romane Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (ParculCarol).Ateneul Romn C-5, Str. Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021315 68 75, www.fge.org.ro.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00,Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:00-19:00.Closed Mon.Casa de Cultura a Studentilor Preoteasa A-5,Calea Plevnei 61, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 42, www.ccs.ro.Diverta E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59 (Bucuresti Mall),www.diverta.net. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.Jet Set Events Hall B-6, B-dul Libertatii 1, tel. (+4)0728 44 64 16, www.jtsevents.ro.Magazin Muzica B-4, Calea Victoriei 41-43, tel.(+4) 021 314 56 08.National Theatre (Teatrul National) C-5, B-dulNicolae Blcescu 2, tel. (+4) 021 314 71 71, ww w.tnb.ro.Q Box office Open Mon 10:00-16:00, Tue-Sun

10:00-19:00.Romanian National Opera (Opera NationalaRomana) A-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, tel. (+4)021 314 69 80.Q Box office open 10:00-13:00,14:00-19:00.Sala Palatului B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, tel.(+4) 021 315 73 72. Q Box office open Tue-Fri 10:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Sala Polivalenta B-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tinere-tului), tel. (+4) 021 317 40 07.Sala Radio B-5, Str. Berthelot 60-64, tel. (+4) 021314 77 70/(+4) 021 303 12 97, w ww.srr.ro.Zone Arena C-3, Str. Barbu Vacarescu 164.

Venues & Tickets

Bucharest is not the greatest city i n the world to visit withchildren. The major problem is that the vast majority ofthe citys museums are dull, and offer no interactivity andvery little to captivate the kids. The exceptions are the out-standingVillage Museum, which children love; see page56. The Peasant Museum will please older children, andClubul Taranului, around the back of the museum, haspuppet shows most Saturday mornings at 11:00). TheCircus Globus (C-3, Parcul Circului) has performancesmost weekends (morning, afternoon and evening).

For an action packed day out though, take them toParc Aventura(Cartier Noua, tel. (+4) 0755 08 5555, w ww.parc-aventura.ro) in Brasov, a two and a halfhour drive north of the capital. Set over two acres it isthe answer to all your what shall we do with the kidsprayers. There are trees to climb, swings and slides, tun-nels, assault courses and all sorts of other activites. Inall there are more than eight different trails (one of whichwelcomes children as young as four). You will find it op-posite Brasovs zoo (follow the signs for the zooas youcome from Bucharest).Q Open 10:00-21:00. Admission(3hrs) adults 33 lei, s tudents 28 lei, children (8-11yrs) 23lei, children (4-7yrs) 18 lei.

Childrens Bucharest


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12 CULtUre & events


13where to stay


Opera & Ballet09.04 FridayLa Cenerentola(Opera Romana).QPerformance starts 18:30. Tickets 5.30-53 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.10.04 SaturdayThe Flying Dutchman (OperaRomana).Q Performance starts 18:30. Tickets 7.42-63.60lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.11.04 SundayCosi Fan Tutte(Opera Romana).QPerformance starts 18:30. Tickets 5.30-53 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.11.04 SundayHansel and Gretel(Opera Romana).Q Performance star ts 11:00. Tickets 5.30-53 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.17.04 Saturday & 18.04 SundayA BalanchineEvening (Opera Romana). Q (Ballet) Performancestarts 18:30. Tickets 7.42-63.63 lei from www.bilet.ro,Opera Romana.20.04 TuesdayI Due Foscari(Opera Romana).QPerformance star ts 18:30. Tickets 26.50 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.21.04 WednesdayIl Barbiere di Siviglia(OperaRomana).QPerformance starts 18:30. Tickets 7.42-63.60lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.21.04 WednesdaySleeping Beauty C-5, B-dulNicolae Balcescu 2 (National Operetta Theatre), tel.(+4) 021 313 63 48 (for tickets).Q Performance starts10:00. Tickets 10.50 lei from w ww.eventim.ro.22.04 ThursdayGiselle(Opera Romana).Q (Ballet)Performance star ts 18:30. Tickets 7.42-63.60 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.22.04 ThursdayRomeo and JulietC-5, B-dul Ni-colae Balcescu 2 (National Operetta Theatre), tel. (+4)021 313 63 48 (for tickets).QPerformance starts 19:00.Tickets 21-105 lei from www.eventim.ro.

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child friendly U Disabled facilities

R Internet (Standard) L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms

M Nearest metro station J Old Town location

K Restaurant D Sauna

C Swimming pool W WiFi Internet

Symbol Key

Aside from the five-star hotels listed in the categoryCre-am of the Crop, hotels are listed strictly by price band,and then by alphabetical order within that band. Theprice band refers to the rack rate for a double room.

Hotel Listings Policy

Centre Ville Elite B-5, Calea Victoriei 63-81,tel. (+4) 021 312 70 70, fax (+4) 021 312 07 29,[email protected], www.centreville.ro. Taken together,the Centre Ville Hospitality Complex, with includes theCentre Ville Apartments, the Radisson Blu, World ClassHealth Academy and the Platinum Casino, is one of thelargest hospitality complexes in Europe. Yet whereassize can often disappoint, here the grand scale merelyadds to the luxurious feeling of staying somewhererather special. The apartments here are large, airy andbrilliantly, uniquely decorated. Q 62 hotel-apartments(49 apartments 180-250, 13 suites 190-300). VATnot included. Prices include 1 breakfast/apartment.PTARUFLGKDCW

Aparthotel

Cream of the CropAthenee Palace Hilton C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel.(+4) 021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 38 13, [email protected], www.hilton.com.Much spoken ofin the past tense (this place has a seriously long and legend-ary history; a home of intrigues and adventure for more thana century) it is less often referred to in the present. This is adeep shame, as to dwell on the past ignores the fact tha t thisis a great, modern hotel. Luxuriously furnished, the immenserooms offer the latest in gadgetry and perhaps the fluffiestbathrobes in Romania. Ask for a room with a view over PiataRevolutiei for best effect. Fine dining on site courtesy of one

excellent restaurant and an exemplary brasserie. Q 271rooms (175 singles/doubles, 96 suites & apartments. Prices

from 110-250). PHARUFLGKDCW

Carol Parc Aleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 3377/(+4) 021 569 33 77, fax (+4) 021 336 37 36, [email protected], www.carolparchotel.ro. Luxurious,certainly, but offering something a bit different to the biggerplayers, the Carol Park is coquette and secluded: you haveto know about this place, as you do not find it by chance. Agorgeous place where the fin est things are offered to all whopass through its doors, expect only fine, classic furnishingsand very personal service. International stars who valuediscretion above all else tend to stay here when visitingBucharest. Q 17 rooms (14 singles/doubles 139-250, 3apartments 450). Prices do not include VAT and breakfast.PHARULGKW

Crowne Plaza Bucharest A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1,tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, fax (+4) 021 318 13 02, [email protected], www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. A leafier setting in the north of the city for whatmight be called a leafier kind of hotel. Set around a largeoutdoor pool (which is a real delight in summer) the CrownePlaza offers the usual five-star luxuries and big, comfortablerooms that you would expect from this chain, as well as a

few charms all this Bucharest establishments own. TheSunday Brunch for example (if you are here at the weekend)remains the best in the cit y and is a real treat.Q 164 rooms(130 singles/doubles 160-170, 34 suites & apartments

195-230). Prices include breakfast. VAT not included.PTHAR6UFLGKDCW

Grand Hotel Continental C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, tel.(+4) 0372 01 03 00, fax (+4) 0372 01 03 01, [email protected], www.continentalhotels.ro.Opened at the end of 2009 this is the latest five star hotelin Bucharest. Making the very best of a wonderful building(which dates from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todaysGrand Hotel Continental is the result of more than two yearsof loving renovation and restorati on. Theres marble at everyturn, though do not think that modern touches are missing,

for they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms forexample are state of the art. For the great location and for achange from the big chains, its well worth trying out. Q 59rooms (20 singles/doubles 280-320, 39 suites & apart-ments 360-920). All taxes included. Prices include breakfast.PHAFGKW

Howard Johnson Grand PlazaB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MP-ta Romana, tel.(+4) 021 201 50 00, fax (+4) 021 201 18 88, [email protected], ww w.hojoplaza.ro. This is a high-risehotel in the busy centre of Bucharest, where the sleek,

modern exterior is matched by the interiors, all of whichcarry the signatures of top-name designers. The breakfastis perhaps the best in the city, coming as it does withchampagne (for those who enjoy such things in th e morn-ing), and the dinin g opportunities in general are excellent:there is a wonderful Japanese restaurant, Benihana, onsite. To really get the best out of this place though, ask

for a room on one of the upper floors, for the views overthe city.Q 285 rooms (201 doubles 185, 139 suites &apartments 230-350). Prices includ e VAT and breakfast.POTHARUFLGKDW

InterContinentalC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4,MUniversitate, tel. (+4)021 310 20 20, fax (+4) 021 312 08 85, [email protected], www.intercontinental.com/bucharest.Stillthe tallest hotel in Bucharest (complete with a small swimmingpool and - during the summer, sun terrace - on the top floor)the Inter Continental was the first major five star hotel to openin Romania, at the beginning of the 1970s. Today it is one ofmany but remains something of a first choice for journalistsand business people, many of whom have been loyal guests

for decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies, thereis first class dining in the building, and the management iscommendably hands-on. We also love the new 21st floorexecutive lounge, complete with telescope for the best viewsof Bucharest possible.. Q 283 rooms (262 singles/doubles

109-124, 262 triples 144, 21 suites & apartments 359-1500). Prices do not include VAT and breakfast. POTHAR6UFLGKDCW

23.04 FridayLe Nozze di Figaro(Opera Romana).QPerformance star ts 18:30. Tickets 5.30-53 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.23.04 FridayRomeo and JulietC-5, B-dul NicolaeBalcescu 2 (National Operetta Theatre), tel. (+4) 021313 63 48 (for tickets). Q Performance starts 19:00.Tickets 21-105 lei from www.eventim.ro.24.04 SaturdayBroadway BucharestC-5, B-dulNicolae Balcescu 2 (National Operetta Theatre), tel. (+4)021 313 63 48 (for tickets). Q Perfomance starts 19:00.Tickets 10.50-26.25 lei from www.eventim.ro.24.04 SaturdayEvgheni Oneghin(Opera Romana).QPerformance star ts 18:30. Tickets 5.30-53 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.25.04 SundayLittle DorothyC-5, B-dul NicolaeBalcescu 2 (National Operetta Theatre), tel. (+4) 021313 63 48 (for tickets). Q Performance starts 10:00.Tickets 10.50 lei from www.eventim.ro.25.04 SundayPuss in Boots(Opera Romana).QPerformance starts 11:00. Tickets 5.30-53 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.28.04 WednesdayLa Traviata(Opera Romana).QPerformance starts 18:30. Tickets 5.30-53 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.28.04 WednesdaySleeping Beauty C-5, B-dulNicolae Balcescu 2 (National Operetta Theatre), tel.(+4) 021 313 63 48 (for tickets). Q Performance starts10:00. Tickets 10.50 lei from ww w.eventim.ro.29.04 ThursdayBallet - International Dance Day(Opera Romana). Q Performance starts 18:30. Tickets7.42-63.60 lei from www.bilet.ro, Opera Romana.30.04 FridayMacbeth(Opera Romana). Q Perfor-mance starts 18:30. Tickets 5.30-53 lei from www.bilet.ro,Opera Romana.


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Class Str. Garlei 30A, tel. (+4) 021 233 28 14/(+4)021 233 28 13, www.class-hotel.ro. While the location isslightly out of the way (it is a fair trek from the city centre) itis close to Baneasa Airport and makes up for it with com fort.This is to all intents and purposes a fi ve star hotel, completewith luxurious bathrooms and perhaps the best indo or swim-ming pool in the city. If you are looking for a leafier locationthan the city centre can offer, its a d ecent choice.Q63 rooms(43 singles 165, 16 doubles 210, 4 junior suites 288).Prices include VAT.PHARUFLGKDC

DukeC-4, B-dul Dacia 33,MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 31741 86/(+4) 021 317 41 87, www.hotelduke.ro. Now thisplace is central. A proverbial stones throw from Piata Romana,this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight spot between twoclassic Bucharest buildings of the past. Rooms are well-sized,bathrooms have tubs and showers, and theres free and

fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high marks for their excellentmattresses.Q 38 rooms (433 singles/doubles 150-180,5 suites & apartments 175-245). Prices include VAT and

breakfast.PJARLGKW

El Greco C-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 16,MP-ta Uni-versitatii, tel. (+4) 021 315 81 31, ww w.hotelelgreco.ro. Located in the heart of what was, pre-World War II, themost stylish residential area in the city. This is one suchvilla dating from that period, though it has of course beenrenovated and refurbished to include a rack of modernluxuries. Fortunately, however, the ambience of the ancienregimehas been preserved, making this one of the best villaconversions in the city. Q 16 rooms (14 singles/doubles

140-170, 2 suites 195). Prices inclu de VAT and breakfast. PHARULGK

JW Marriott Bucharest Grand B-6, Calea 13 Sep-tembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, www.marriott.com/buhro. To the south of Casa Poporul ui the JW Marriot toccupies something of a palatial building that at first glanceprobably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bu-charests big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and itscavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as partof the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet therooms are homely and well-furnished, providing a welcomecontrast to the building. Home to the biggest swimming poolin the city (we think).Q 402 rooms (379 singles/doubles740-790 lei, 23 suites & apartments 1500-5000 lei). Pricesinclude breakfast. VAT not includ ed.POTHAR6UFLGKDCW

Novotel Bucharest City Centre B-4, Calea Victoriei37B, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. Fewlocations are better than this, right on fashionable CaleaVictoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the oldneoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact siteuntil the British bombed it to next week during the Second

World War. Shiny and new the main part of the hotel is won-derful: rooms are big, with bathrooms particularl y impressive.Excellent, lively lobby bar and a big indoor swimming pool.Q258 rooms (242 singles/doubles 225-245, 16 suites &apartments 275-375). Prices do not include breakfast andVAT.PTHAR6UFLGKDCW

Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center A-1, P-taMontreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullman-hotels.com. The spacious, luxurious rooms are the mainattraction at this high rise in the north of the city, wherethe bathrooms boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs inthe city. There are separate showers, and all in we thinkthat the square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here thananywhere else in Bucharest. A good on-site steak housekeeps you well fed, and though there is no pool there is agood fitness centre with sauna and massage available. Q203 rooms (188 singles/doubles 240, 15 suites & apart-ments 350-800). Prices do not include VAT and breakfast. POTHAR6UFLGKDW

Radisson Blu B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021311 90 00, fax (+4) 021 313 90 00, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucha-rest. A gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the moreclassical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels inplaying the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. Asyou walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern,and the rooms themsel ves are equally avant garde in design.Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers, and there is bothan indoor and outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever theweather. Excellent restaurants.Q 424 rooms (424 singles/doubles 500-750 lei, 113 suites & apartments 680-8500 lei).Prices include breakfast (except single, double and extra bedrates). PJHARUFLGKDCW

Over 150Angelo Calea Bucurestilor 283, tel. (+4) 021 203 6500, www.angelo-bucharest.com. The hotel closest toBucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vi-enna Hotels, and its bright exterior is matched by the interior:bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas.There is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centrecomplete with sauna. Transport to and from the airport iscomplimentary. Good buffet breakfast. Q 177 rooms (134singles/doubles 180-190, 3 triples 210, 40 suites &apartments 220-250). Prices include VAT and breakfast.PTHAR6UFLGKDW

Grand Accommodation Tel./fax (+4) 021 31420 07, tel. (+4) 0722 36 75 68, www.for-rent.ro. Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnishedapartments and villas to suit all pockets in good locationsavailable for both short and long term rentals. Q Prices

from 40-55/night. VAT not included.

Professional Realty C-6, Str. George ValentinBibescu 33, bl, 10/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021232 04 06, www.accommodation.com.ro. Thesepeople have been offering great apartments in centralBucharest since 1996: they were one of the first playersin the market. Apartments are well furnished, and theyoffer a full 24-hour service.Q Prices from 50-150. VATnot included.A

RoCazare Str. Baicului 8, tel. (+4) 0728 82 18 83,www.rocazare.ro. Bright, colourfully furnished apart-ments in and around the centre of Bucharest. Choose

from a selection of studios, one, two and three bedroomapartments. All have internet connections, and air condi-tioning.Q Prices from 35-65. VAT not included.

RomVision Travel E-6, B-dul Burebista 1, bl. D15,sc. 4, ap. 133, tel. (+4) 021 322 65 33, www.romvision.ro. A wide variety of apartments in the citycentre of all types and sizes, from small and simple tobig and luxurious, with something for all pockets. Themost luxurious have jacuzzis and fireplaces and are agenuine five-star experience. QPrices from 48-68/night. VAT not included.

Short Term Rental


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17where to stay


Golden Tulip Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, tel. (+4) 021316 65 16, www.goldentuliptimes.com. This, people, isa very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for arelatively small amount of mon ey. All come furnished well withterrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms areequally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughoutand a host of extras: not least of which is the fantasticbreakfast.Q 70 rooms (54 singles/doubles 169-189,16 apartments 219). Prices include VAT and breakfast.PTHARUGKW

K+K ElisabetaC-5, Str. Slanic 26, tel. (+4) 021 302 92 80, www.kkhotels.ro. We loved this place for a number of reasons,not least the fact that the huge breakfast buffet stays openuntil 11:00, meaning late starters can still get breakfast. Thehotel is located in a huge, renovated period hou se just behindPiata Universitatii. The discretion of the location betrays the

fact that this is the kind of place you come to if you like oldfashioned luxury, good service, and possess exceptionaltaste.Q 67 rooms (59 singles/doubles 250-275, 7 triples

330, 1 suite 350). Prices include VAT and breakfast.PTHAR6UFGKDW

NH Bucharest D-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. (+4)021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. Not located in themost attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for thatby offering a modern, contemporary hotel experience for a

fair amount of money: you can usually stay here for far lessthan the rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty ofextras and a very good on site restaurant. Good place tostay with children and babies: the staff make a point of mak-ing them feel welcome.Q 78 rooms (14 singles 196, 64doubles 211). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. PHARUGKW

Parliament A-6, Str. Izvor 106, tel. (+4) 021 41199 90, w ww.parliament-hotel.ro. So named becauseit is located behind Romanias parliament building, CasaPoporului, which you can see from almost all of th e rooms.This hotel has been around for a decade now and offers a

four/five star experience: many of the rooms have jacuzzisin their bathrooms and are packed with luxuries such as thehuge, high double beds, which are among the best wevecome across in Bucharest.Q 20 rooms (12 singles/doubles

130-150, 8 junior suites 170). Prices include VAT andbreakfast. PHARGK

Ramada Bucharest ParcA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro.The Hotel Parc has been arounda while, but only came under the Ramada banner a shortwhile ago. A high-rise in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpoand Herastrau park - hence the name) it boasts nice roomswhich - while not big - are comfortable and boast brightlycoloured dcor and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on thebeds.Q 267 rooms (180 singles 156, 79 doubles 178,8 apartments 235). Prices include VAT and breakfast.PHAR6UFGKDCW

Ramada Majestic B-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, tel. (+4)021 310 27 20, w ww.ramadamajestic.ro.Standing (darewe say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic haslong been one of Bucharests best hotels. It offers very bigrooms with glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and - areal bonus - a swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). Ina city in which even some of the five star hotels lack pools,the Majestics makes it well worth that little bit extra cash.Q 111 rooms (85 singles/doubles 240-290, 26 suites &apartments 350-1200). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTHARUFLGKDCW

Ramada Plaza Bucharest B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel.(+4) 021 549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro.Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment acrossthe road, what you get here is a slightly bigger room thanat the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The design of theplace is nicely fu turistic, and we loved the bed s which we thinkare amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi, a good lobbybar and a decent on site bistro.Q 266 rooms (259 singles/doubles 178-200, 7 apartments 302). Prices include VATand breakfast.PHARUFGKDCW

Tulip Inn D-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel. (+4) 021 20062 70, www.tulipinnbucharestcity.com. The Tulip Innis something of a beacon of glass and steel in an area notknown for anythin g except socialist architecture. The hotel isa decent place offering big-ish rooms, with commendably bigbathrooms. Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always

found in Bucharests hotels. Good cafes (there are two tochoose from) on the ground floor.Q 88 rooms (23 singles

185, 43 doubles 215, 7 superior rooms 220, 14 deluxerooms 260, 1 presidential suite 485). Prices include VAT

and breakfast.PHARUFGKDW

100-150Armonia D-4, Calea Mosilor 112, tel. (+4) 021 31204 77, www.hotelarmonia.ro. The Armonia offers terrific(though not all that big) rooms that come complete with whathave to be contenders for the best bathrooms in the cityprize we often mention but n ever get round to handing out. Inspring and summer the terrace at the back is a great placeto take your breakfast. Q 32 rooms (29 singles/doubles

110-140, 3 suites 220). Pri ces include VAT and breakfast.PTHAR6ULGKW

NEW

Christina C-4, Str. Ion Slatineanu 13, tel. (+4) 021210 73 03/(+4) 0731 00 99 99, www.hotelchristina.ro. Magic! A great hotel setting new standards for simple,elegant, colourful design. We loved it from the moment wesaw the first room: all straight lines and bright yellow furniture,sparkling white floors and minimalism. Every room is a bitdifferent, a different colour or mood, and the whole place justsmacks of very good taste. Its the hotel many others in thecity have tried to b e, but which have failed miserably. Christinagets it right.Q24 rooms (24 singles/doubles 80-95). Pricesinclude VAT and breakfast.PTHARULGKW

Golden Tulip Bucharest B-4, Calea Victoriei 166, tel.(+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com.Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both PiataVictoriei and Piata Universita tii, the Golden Tulip is a fine hotelthat makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms

for example are not huge but feel far bigger than they are, andall have enough room for bathtubs.Q 83 rooms (81 singles/doubles 75-90, 2 junior suites 115). Prices include VAT and

breakfast.PJARUFLGKW

HoroscopC-7, Bd. Dimitrie Cantemir 2, MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4)021 335 40 31, www.hotel-horoscop.ro. A hotel whosebiggest claim to fame is probably that it sits above one ofthe first pizz a parlours ever to open in Bucharest (also calledHoroscop). Rooms are quite big (though some are big ger thanothers and are priced accordingly), and come complete withgreat bathrooms, some of which have jacuzzis.Q 14 rooms(6 singles 80, 4 doubles 110-130, 1 apartment 220, 3

junior suites 130-150). Prices include VAT and breakfast.PARKDW


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19where to stay


for families with children to stay when visiting th e capital. Notcheap, we think that you get value for money, especially giventhe size of the rooms and th e terrific breakfast spread they layon every morning for guests. Staff happy and smiley too.Q33rooms (26 singles/doubles 140-160, 7 suites 199). Pricesinclude VAT and breakfast.PTHARLGKW

Ramada Bucharest North C-6, Str. Daniel Danielopolu44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www.ramadanorth.ro. Wellnamed, for it is indeed in the north of the city. It has greatrooms - amongst the big gest, on average, in Bucharest - andthe bathrooms are tremend ous: all have bathtubs. The hotelboasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath), big fit-ness room with load s of equipment and has a good lobby bar.The on-site dining is decent too.Q 232 rooms (219 singles/doubles 111-129, 13 suites 156). Prices include VAT andbreakfast.PTHARUFLGKDW

Residence Arc de Triomphe A-3, Str. Clucerului 19,tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78, www.residencehotels.com.ro.Fantastic hotel in a good area of the capital, offering large,excellent value rooms and super services. There are littletouches of class all over the hotel that suggest they reallycare. The wrought iron bed s, for example, are fabulous, as isthe newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi. Therestaurant is also worth a visit, serving good internationalcuisine.Q35 rooms (25 singles/doubles 90-100, 10 suites& apartments 110-120). VAT not included. Prices includebreakfast.PTHARLGBKDW

Residence Domenii Plaza A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44, www.residencehotels.com.ro. A wonderful villa, this place offers real luxury and a quiet,understated atmosphere. Its a classy place for classy people,basically. All the rooms, studios and apartments are bright,

Le Boutique Hotel Moxa B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 4, tel.(+4) 021 650 55 55, www.hotelmoxa.com. Rather specialthis hotel is located in a wonderful S ecession building that hasbeen brilliantly converted into a very good place to stay. Theentrance is impressive, and sets the scene for the exquisiterooms, furnished in classic style. The bathrooms by contrastare the height of modern design.Q 52 rooms (48 singles/doubles 80-100, 4 suites 110-120). Prices include VAT andbreakfast. PARFLGKDW

Minerva B-4, Str.Gheorghe Manu 2-4, tel. (+4) 021312 27 38, www.minerva.ro. It is really hard to knock theMinerva so we will not even try. Having been around s o long itis entitled to a gold watch, it remains a great choice for busi-ness people who pay their own bills: you get great service, agood room and a dead-central location. The oldest Chineserestaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor.Q 149rooms (139 singl es/doubles 103-140, 10 suites 155-185).Prices include VAT and breakfast.PTHARLGK

Monte-NellyD-5, Str. Corbeni 30, tel. (+4) 021 211 0979, ww w.monte-nelly.ro. Smart, wonderfully decorated es-tablishment that succeeds in breaking away from the tediumthat besets most Bu charest hotels in this class. There is realthought and individuality behind most of the rooms, and thelarge beds are fantastic. Staff are great, an d there is guardedparking. Q 58 rooms (39 singles 125-135, 39 doubles

150-160, 4 junior suites 165-175, 14 suites 180-190, 1Presidential Suite 230-240). Prices include breakfast. VATnot included.PHARFLGKDW

Opera B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 37, tel. (+4) 021 312 4857, www.hotelopera.ro. You could quite literally throw astone from the rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we donot recommend i t), and as such we think this is a great place

big and have stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantasticspa, complete with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi,perfect for tired business types in need of evening relaxation.The rooftop terrace has fine views of what is the citys bestresidential area.Q 33 rooms (15 singles/doubles 90-100,18 suites & apartmen ts 110-120). VAT not included. Pricesinclude breakfast.PTHARLGKDW

Starlight B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, tel.(+4) 021211 34 13, www.starlighthotels.com. At thebustling junction of B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara and glitzy CaleaDorobantilor is Starlight, the first hotel of its kind in Romania.Every room is a suite, complete with seperate living andsleeping areas. All have air conditioning, the latest in homeentertainment systems, and kitchenettes complete with mi-crowaves. The fitness centre is free to guests.Q 78 rooms(62 suites 75, 16 apartments 105). Pric es include VAT andbreakfast.PTAR6UFLGKDW

While for most foreigners over the age of 30 the revolution of1989 remains the first thing about Romania that they thinkof, few remember the almost equally bloody and in manyregards more sinisterMineriada of June 1990. A brutal,three-day long, allegedly government-approved riot, theMineriadasmeared the young Romanian democratic statewith a stain that has yet to be fully erased.

The roots of the Mineriada lie in the decision of IonIliescus National Salvation Front (FSN) which had,when taking power during the revolution of 1989, statedthat it would be nothing more than a transitional govern-ment to become a political party and field candidates inthe countrys first parliamentary and presidential elections.Unrepentant at having broken his word, Iliescu announcedthat he would himself stand for election as president. (Whilesome members of the FSN resigned in protest, mos t stayedon and ran for election). The FSNs decision was taken (andannounced) late in January 1990, and sparked protests

from opposition parties (the PNL and the PNTCD) whoargued that it went against the spirit of the revolution. Theopposition organised a rally of it supporters in Piata Victorieion January 27. The next day more than 5,000 miners fromthe Jiu Valley came to Bucharest to nip any protest in thebud, after Iliescu had asked for their help on the groundsthat democracy was in danger. The miners besieged theheadquarters of the PNL, and its leaderCorneliu Coposuhad to be spirited away in a tank.

Given that Iliescu and the FSN had complete control ofevery facet of government, including a media-monopoly,their crushing victory in Romanias first free parliamentaryand presidential elections for decades (eventually heldin May 1990) was hardly surprising. Yet neither was thecondemnation by the international community at the frau-dulent way the election had been carried out: internationalobservers were visibly shocked at the goings on theywitnessed, from multiple voting to voter intimidation. Yetcondemnation was all that came: sanctions against theIliescu government were never a serious option.

Unhappy with what they viewed as one dictatorshipreplacing another, and angered that the internationalcommunity couldnt apparently care less for Romaniandemocracy, groups of protesters led by students atBucharest University - began demonstrating against Iliescuand the FSN in Piata Universitii on May 21, the day after

the general election. Many went on hunger strike. Theirprimary demand was the strict application of item numbereight of the Timisoara Proclamation (a list of demandsdrawn up by Timisoaras revolutionaries during December1989). Item eight stated that all former communists (in-cluding Iliescu) should be forbidden from holding politicaloffice. Within days the students had occupied the entiresquare, declaring it the only part of Romania genuinely freeof communism. As support for the protest grew, it becameanother serious embarrassment to Iliescu and his regime.

On June 13, 1990, Iliescu appealed again to the minersof the Jiu Valley for assistance in reoccupying the square inthe name of the revolution. They did, and over the courseof three days killed seven people and injured thousands.After Piata Universitatii had been cleared, and the revoltsleaders arrested, Iliescu then went on television to thankthe miners for their revolutionary zeal and spirit.

Though indicted a number of times in connection withtheMineriada, Iliescu was formally and finally cleared of allcharges regarding his role in events by Romanias highestcourt in 2009.

The Mineriada of 1990

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child friendly U Disabled facilities

R Internet (Standard) L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms

M Nearest metro station J Old Town location

K Restaurant D Sauna

C Swimming pool W WiFi Internet

Symbol Key


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20 where to stay


21where to stay


Venezia B-5, Str. Pompiliu Eliade 2, tel. (+4) 021 31068 72, ww w.hotelvenezia.ro.Lovingly renovated with care,taste and not a little style, the Hotel Venezia completes ahandy little triumvirate of three-star accommodation optionsin and around Bulevardul Kogalniceanu (the others being theOpera and Central hotels, all part of the same chain). Expectsome unique rooms, some with real character provided bythe shape of the building, lovely staff and some throughlyreasonable prices. Q 49 rooms (42 singles/doubles

140-160, 7 suites 199). Prices inclu de VAT and breakfast. PTHARLGKW

Vila Arte C-5, Str. Vasile Lascar 78, tel. (+4) 021 21010 35, www.vilaarte.ro. Now here is something new anddifferent. A small, perfectly formed lit tle boutique hotel, wherethe seven rooms have each been designed to offer somethingdifferent to the next. In all, design and comfort have been

combined to great effect, and throughout the place the artwhich adorns the walls is all local and most is for sale. Goodyoung staff, free wifi and a decent breakfast all make for anenjoyable stay. Find it just east of the city centre on the cornerof Vasile Lascar and Maria Rosetti. Q 7 rooms (6 singles/doubles 50-110, 1 apartment 125-145). Prices include VATand breakfast.PARFLGKDW

Under 100CharterDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19,www.hotelcharter.ro. For what you pay at this hotel, youget a large amount of room indeed. Really: these must bethe biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about

1 per square metre. Close to the airport (on the other sideof the road to McDonalds) this place is perfect if you havean early flight.Q 21 rooms (15 singles/doubles 40-45, 1triple 55, 5 suites 60). Prices include VAT and breakfast.PTAR6ULGKW

Confort Calea Bucurestilor 255 A, tel. (+4) 021 35041 10, www.conforthotels.ro. The Confort is just a shortwing span from Otopeni airport. Good value, well equippedand really rath er spacious rooms on offer, but i t is the locati onyou will be coming for. Q 150 rooms (142 singles/doubles

75-85, 8 suites 99-139). Prices inclu de VAT and breakfast. PHARUFLGK

Confort TraianD-5, Str. Traian 55, tel. (+4) 02 1 308 3153, www.conforthotels.ro. From the people who broughtyou the Hotel Confort out by the airport, the Confort Traianis a hotel much closer to the centre of the city. Standardsare high, and all the well-appointed ro oms are of a good size.Service is friendly and multi-lingual.Q90 rooms (89 singles/doubles 80-109, 1 junior suite 120-139). Prices includeVAT.PARGK

Dan B-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel. (+4) 021 210 39 58,www.hoteldan.ro. Smart three-star. The location is centralwithout being noisy, and the rooms themselves are all well-sized and well-equipped. Staff are friendly, befitting a smallhotel, and ready to see to your every need. Q 15 rooms (15singles/doubles 68-79). All taxes included. Prices includebreakfast.PTARLGW

Hello Hotels B-4, Calea Grivitei 143, tel. (+4) 037212 18 00, www.hellohotels.ro. Two stars never lookedso good. For your paltry amount of cash you are getting alot of hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisionsand mattresses thicker than many a fi ve-star. Bathrooms area bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far as

value for money goes we think this is one of the best d eals inthe city.Q 150 rooms (138 doubles 31, 12 comfort rooms

41). All taxes included. Prices do not include breakfast.PTAR6ULGKW

Herastrau B-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 9666/(+4) 0744 33 56 68, www.herastrau.ro. One of themost historic hotels in the city, located on the shore of gor-geous Herastrau Lake, in the middle of the ci tys largest park.Great location, nice rooms, an d good value.Q 28 rooms (25singles/doubles 50-99, 3 suites & apartments 110-154).Prices include VAT and breakfast.PHARUGK

Ibis Gara de NordA-4, Calea Grivitei 143,MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021300 91 00, www.ibishotel.com. A hotel for more than 40years this building (and the whole area) was given a real liftwhen it became a good ol d Ibis some several years ago now.Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usualservices, few frills (breakfast costs extra) an d all in all a goodvalue stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead oppositethe station. Q 250 rooms (235 singles/doubles 85, 15apartments 105). Prices include VAT. PHAR6ULGKW

Ibis Palatul Parlamentului B-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel.(+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotel.com. If you want aview of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps the best place inBucharest to come. Other than tha t it is a fairly standard Ibishotel, just as you love them (or otherwise!) from just aboutanywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located ifyou are not driving, it does boast non-smoking rooms andvery good staff. Q 161 rooms (154 singles/doubles 85,7 apartments 105). Prices include VAT. PHAR6ULGKW

Piccolo Mondo A-3, Str. Clucerului 9, tel. (+4) 021260 06 82, www.piccolomondo.ro. The Piccolo Mondohas long been recognised as the home of Bucharests bestMiddle-Eastern food (try getting a table on the terrace whenthe weather is good if you do not believe us), and now alsooffers a hotel (directly above the restaurant in the samebuilding). Good, well-appointed four-star rooms, and (moreimportantly in this town perhaps) a location in a more quietarea of the capital, usually ensuring a peaceful nights sleep.Q20 rooms (20 singles/doubles 78-89). Prices include VATand breakfast.PHAR6GKW

RembrandtC-5, Str. Smardan 11, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Always full (reserve well in advance) you willsee why when you arrive. The Rembrandt is what happenswhen people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bu-charest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs - unsurprisingly- to the same people). Luxurious withou t overdoing it, expectto find original 1920s wooden floors and period furnishingscomplimented by up-to-the-minute technology. The hotel cel-ebrated its fifth bir thday in January 2010: long may it go on.Q16 rooms (10 singles/doubles 55-95, 6 triple 110). Pricesinclude VAT and breakfast.PTHARFGKW

Residence Club PalaceStr. Odaii 137A, tel. (+4) 021 315 16 66, www.residencehotels.com.ro. Its a fair distance from the citycentre, but the sense of luxury and the get away from itall atmosphere of this exclusive club is more than enoughcompensation. For a start there is a big pool to enjoy, thereare tennis courts, a good breakfast included in the price andeven conference rooms. Ideal for a company retreat. Q 6rooms (6 singles/doubles 70-80). VAT not included. Pricesinclude breakfast.PTHARLGKCW


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23where to stay


and breakfast. Few frills, little fuss, just first class hospitalityfrom great staff who will make your stay as comfortable aspossible. In warmer months you can have your breakfastoutside in the lovely courtyard. Q 18 rooms (17 singles/doubles 40-50, 1 triple 65). Prices includ e VAT and break-

fast.PTAR6ULGW

La Historia C-6, Str. Sf. Dumitru 3, tel. (+4) 0721 7474 18, www.lahistoriahostel.ro. First proper hostel inOld Town, and a winner. Clean, shiny and new, its broughtto you by the people behind the La Historia bar/restaurantdownstairs, as well as the now legendary El C omandante club.A backpackers dream.Q 30 beds, 10-18. Price includesbreakfast.JHBKW

Vila 11 A-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11,MGara deNord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00. Located in a lovely houseclose to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatianand Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms,dormitory facilities and family suites available for backpackersand families of all ages. Friendly and welcoming the terrific

owners do a great breakfast and are a wealth of inside infowhen it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest. Q (4singles/doubles 90-135 lei, 1 triple 180 lei, 14 dorm places50 lei). Prices include VAT and breakfast.6G

Youth Hostel V illa Helga D-4, Str. Busolei 7, tel./fax(+4) 021 212 08 28, ww w.rotravel.com/hotels/helga.Still something of a first choice for backpackers, who havebeen told of its legendary status by other travellers. Thereare dorms and private rooms to choose from, and the pricesare highly competi tive. From the station, take bus 86 to PiataGemeni, walk up Vasile Lascar and take the fourth right.Q9 rooms (3 singles 85 lei, 3 doubles 140 lei, 1 triple 165 lei).Beds in dorms 50 lei/bed. Prices include VAT.RG

Mirage Snagov Sos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti 218, tel.(+4) 031 822 02 50/(+4) 0733 88 88 00, ww w.mi-ragehotel.ro/site.Snagov is a small town 20 kilom eters

from Bucharest famous for its lake and monastery: it issaid that the remains of Vlad Tepes, the Impaler, a buriedunder the monastery church. Snagov has long been aretreat for the good crowd of the capital and you can nowstay here in comfort thanks to this modern, contemporaryhotel. Rooms are large and well decorated, have high-speed internet connections, great bathrooms, and plushcarpets. The bar on the top flo or has great views over thelake.Q117 rooms (106 singles/doubles 164-300 lei, 11suites & apartments 290-400 lei). Prices include all ta xesand breakfast.PTHRULGKDC

Snagov

Rin Calea Bucurestilor 255A, tel. (+4) 021 350 4115, www.conforthotels.ro. This relatively new hotel outtowards Otopeni airport is a sibling of the Hotel Confort, andrun by the same people. A little more luxurious in fact thanthe Confort, you can expect the same well-sized rooms, goodservice and good value you have come to expect from theConfort people.Q 255 rooms (100 singles 89, twins 89).Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included (8 per person).PTARUFGKDC

Tempo C-5, Str. Armand Calinescu 19, tel. (+4) 021310 12 16, www.tempohotel.com. Smart, modern andvery yellow hotel not far from the centre of Bucharest. Thedecor is a step-above the norm, with bright colours and reallyquite original design making a refreshing break from the beigeand tan of other places in its class. Almost every room has

a balcony, and some even have hydro-massage showers.A good breakfast is included in the price. Q 32 rooms (32singles/doubles 70-90). Prices include breakfast and VAT. PTHARGKW

Trianon B-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021311 49 27, www.hoteltrianon.ro. If location really iseverything then you cant do much better than this crackingplace on Str. Cobalcescu, next to the Ministery of Defenceand opposite Cismigiu Park. The building is a superb Seces-sion renovation on a street that boasts some extraordinarybuildings: it is a shame not all are up to this standard. Insidethe rooms are simple, tastefully decoarted an d offer excellentvalue for money. Bathrooms have either a bath or a shower.Given its park location, families will like it here.Q 26 rooms(4 singles 74, 18 doubles 98, 2 suites 114, 2 apartments

138). Prices includ e VAT and breakfast. PAR6ULGKDW

Unique B-4, Str. Caderea Bastiliei 35, tel. (+4) 021319 45 91, www.hotelunique.ro. One of the first new-builthotels in the cit y to appear for some time (though more are onthe way), this is an understated kind of place that will appealto business travellers looking for a little more peace and quietthan usual. That said, its location close to the city centremakes it great for night owls too. Lovely garden.Q 15 rooms(14 singles/doubles 59-65, 1 suite 98-109). Prices includ eVAT and breakfast.PTHARULGKW

Hostels & VillasFlowers B & B D-5, Str. Plantelor 2, tel./fax (+4) 021311 98 48, www.flowersbb.ro. Very close to Piata Uniriithis place is exactly what i t claims to be: a proper, homely bed


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Back in 1999 when we began publishingBucharest InYour Pocket, we were able to list everything in the city:every hotel, every restaurant, every bar and every club.Now, almost eleven years on and with new places openingup every week, we no longer have the space to list everyvenue. As such we now list venues strictly according totheir location, and their relevance to visitors. We list everyvenue in Old Town, every venue in the Universitatearea,almost every venue in Dorobantiand the vast majority ofvenues in and around Herastrau Park. Why? Becausethose are the most popular areas for visitors. We also ofcourse include a vast number of placesnot in those areas,but in general if a venue is not on any of the main visitortrails then it needs to be exceptionally good (or notoriouslybad) to make the cut. ForLipscani/Old Townvenues, seethe feature on pages 58-69.

Our Venue Listings PolicyAmericanChampions B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW MarriottBucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17. Stillserving the very best burger in Bucharest (you can chooseone or design your own from an endless choice of toppings),a fact undisputed by anyone weve ever met. It is also oneof the biggest. In fact, now we think of it, the portions ofeverything here are enormous: even the childrens servingsare very healthy indeed. Besides the burgers you will find agreat selection of American pub food, as well as Tex-Mextreats and even mici. Famously good cocktails, and moretelevisions showing sport than you could ever hope for. Findit in the Marriott: up the stairs as you go in and to your right.QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PTAX

Hard Rock Cafe B-3, B-dul Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021206 62 61, [email protected], www.hardrock.com.Wham, Bam, thank you Maam. Americana gone berserk in thevery best sense of the word. Nobody can knock this placeand it is easy to see why. Feast on top level, upmarket-burger

bar and Tex-Mex food, served in huge porti ons by perky Bondgirls who have a smile for everyone. Then sit back withgreat cocktails and listen to some very good rock and rollsupplied by some of Bucharests best live acts. Seriouslygood.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.

.PAUEBW

BelgianLa Belle Epoque B-2, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021230 07 70, fax (+4) 021 230 21 51, [email protected], www.labelleepoque.ro. A big, bright and openplan cafe on Radu Beller (Dorobanti) branded as a Belgianbeer cafe. And there is no doubt about the beer: there areplenty of Belgian beers present and correct, as well as a fewBelgian touches in and around the bar. The food is not reallyBelgian, though as most people now seem to use this placeas a (good) boozer rather than a place to eat, nobod y seemsto mind too much.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . AI

BulgarianBalcic C-3, Sos. Stefan cel Mare 1, tel. (+4) 021 230 5535/(+4) 0726 34 74 15, [email protected],www.restaurantbalcic.com. The first genuinely Bulgarianrestaurant to open in Bucharest. Named for the city on theBulgarian coast that was for years part of Romania, the interioris one of the most amazi ng in Bucharest: gorgeous murals onthe walls compete for your attention with the huge fireplace,

from which the smell of gently burning wood is enough to giveanyone an appetite. The food is great, with no fewer than

five lamb dishes (and much, much else) to choose from. Notcheap, but great value for money. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.

.PAW

ChineseNan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, tel. (+4) 021 31115 50/(+4) 021 318 12 95, fax (+4) 021 312 39 63. The Nan Jings claim to fame is that its the oldest Chineserestaurant in Bucharest, having been founded in the 1960s.The food has a sort of Chinese-styleto it, and portions arelarge (and so they should be considering th e prices, which arenot cheap) and the food is certainly n o worse than elsewhere.Popular with those staying at the Minerva Hotel (the NanJing is situated in the hotels lobby). Q Open 07:00-10:00,12:00-24:00 .PALBS

Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 031 42547 47/(+4) 0733 50 07 50, rezer [email protected], www.orasul-interzis.ro. Bucharests first upmarketChinese restaurant combines all the cuisines of that greatcountry and deli vers them to your plate with real aplomb. Andwith due reason. This is the best Chinese food in Romaniasince, well, just abou t ever. At least since John Wing l eft. Themenu is adventurous and features all sorts of dishes thatplace it way above anywhere else in town, such as the seacucumber and mushroom soup, or the Chinese cabbage,served correctly with dried oysters. To get the best out ofthis place though round up three friends and go for one ofthe set menus. Tremendous value. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00.

.PAB


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27restaUrants


Templul Soarelui D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 151,tel. (+4) 021 211 16 93/(+4) 0723 74 38 78, www.templulsoarelui.ro. Popular place that has spawned twooffshoots, boasts literally hundreds of selections on its menu,though it is the usual stuff, such as pork with peppers, porkwithout peppers, pork with rice, pork without rice... and soon. Not the worst Chinese you will eat in this country by anymeans.QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. Also a t (D-4) Str. Vasile Lascar205, tel. 021 212 29 55 and (D-5) Str. Dimitrie Onciul 17, tel.0729 88 36 63. .PB

FrenchBoutique du Pain C-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, tel. (+4)0723 60 77 32, [email protected], www.boutiquedupain.com. Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and alot more. This is in fact more bistrothan anything, servingbreakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright surround-ings. The selection of morning pastries is the best in thecity, with office workers going out of their way to stop here

for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a range of sandwiches

hard to beat anywhere else, and the small selection of hotmeals of an evening - the menu changes daily - are perfect

for a casual dinner. Serving great coffee and a magnificenthot chocolate, we (and our kids!) love this place. QOpen08:00 - 22:00..A

Brasserie C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hil-ton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21. Agenuine brasserie, offering food from an ever-changing menu(theme weeks based on seasonal vegetables or meats are a

feature) in a casual yet gently refined atmosphere. Known tomany regulars as the posh bit of th e Hiltons cafe, the sweetcounter here offers the kind of treats that will guiltily have youasking the waiter for an application form to join the Hiltons

to happen. A French restaurant that actually delivers thegoods time after time yet does s o in an atmosphere that begsyou to spend more time here. The menu features a number ofsimple, new-wave French cuisine which - for this city - is verywell-priced. The tasty duck dishes stoo d out for us, as did thedesserts and the excellent wine list which - while featuring agreat list of French grape - for once acknowledges that theNew World can make decent wine too. In short, this place amini-revolution on the Bucharest dining scene and worthy ofyour time.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (B-4) B-dul LascarCatargiu 4, tel. 021 313 61 03, Open 12:00-24:00 and (B-4)B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, East Wing, et. 1 (America House)tel. 021 311 44 72, Open 09:00-21:00. .PA

Heritage C-4, Str. Polona 19, tel. (+4) 021 210 8850, fax (+4) 021 210 88 52, [email protected], ww w.heritage-restaurant.eu. There is stillsomething of a mistaken idea amongst Bucharest gourmandsthat Heritage is a fitze kind of place, frequented by thesunglasses crowd and such like. Let us assure you it is not.It is quite simply one of Bucharests best restaurants, andas such attracts a mixed crowd of people who like fantastic

food in a classy atmosphere, be they business partners, orfamilies enjoying a weekend dinner. Prices are not as high asyou might think, and given the standard of the food you areguaranteed value for money.Q Open 12:30-24:00. ClosedSun. .PALGB

Ici et LaC-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08/(+4)0763 50 47 24, [email protected], www.eventsicietla.com.In an area already bursting at the seemswith places to eat and drink, heres another. Its difficult toknow what to make of this place. It looks more like a cafe thananything else, yet actually serves some substantial (though

not award-winning) food and also doubles up (or triples-up)as a good bar, with prices a wee bit lower than a few otherplaces on the street. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.

.PAW

Traiteur Petit Heritage B-3, Str. Radu Beller 13, tel.(+4) 031 710 41 51/(+4) 0735 77 77 44, fax (+4)031 710 41 50, www.heritage-restaurant.eu. What youmight call Heritage-light , this is a less formal version oftop-peoples restaurant of the same name, though whereyou can still get the same excellent, high quality food thathas been the hallmark ofHeritagefor years. With an eye onthe lucrative Dorobanti breakfast, lunchtime and after workmarket, we think that they are on to something here. And makea note: you can take it all away, perfect for impressin g guestswithout doing any actual cooking... QOpen 07:30 - 21:30,Sun 09:00 - 12:00. . PASW

FusionAvalonB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson GrandPlaza),MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30, fax(+4) 021 201 18 88, www.hojoplaza.ro/ro/avalon-restaurant. Another restaurant goes totally non-smoking.Slowly, but surely, the smoke-free revolution is taking holdin Bucharest. At Avalon, the fresh air is welcome as it allowsdiners to really enjoy the flavours and smells of the superbFusion cuisine. Every time we visit (and we visit as often aswe can) we find something new and interesting - and usuallyinventive - on the menu, and a good wine to go with our meal.The Sunday Brunch is excellent value and a good introduc-tion to the place for those on a bit of a budget. Q Open12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00. Sun 12:00-16:00, 19:00-23:00.

.PAGB

gym. The word legend is overused in this town: this is one offew Bucharest eateries that genuinel y deserves the moniker.QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. .PAUE

Casa Vernescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 133, tel. (+4) 021311 97 44, fax (+4) 021 212 54 87, [email protected], www.casavernescu.ro. Before the food, thereis the villa: built in the 1880s it is an eclectic mix of stylesthat has been impressively preserved over the years. Therestaurant inside has quite a job li ving up to the surroundings,but with the cooking in the hands of one of the countrys bestchefs, it does so with ease. Goose liver with truffles, sea bassmarinated in Pernod, chocolate and orange mousse: mouth-watering combinations every one. Considered (not withoutreason) to be expensive, this is a wonderful place to eatand for what you get in terms of ambiance, service and food,you are getting your moneys worth.QOpen 18:30 - 01:00.

.POALE

Escargot BistroD-4, Str. Toamnei 101, tel. (+4) 021 201 71 33/(+4)

0755 12 58 70, [email protected], www.escargot.ro. Bucharest foodies: thisis the place you have been waiting for.A sensational French restaurant wh ere the love and care thechef has for his food oozes onto your plate. Duck that takes48 hours to prepare, an onion soup of the like weve nevereaten in Bucharest, fresh snails, outstanding wines and allserved in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here. Weare telling everyone about it and think you should get hereright now. Bring plenty of money. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.Closed Mon. .ABW

French Bakery Le Restaurant C-5, Str. NicolaeGolescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 33 02/(+4) 021 310 3306, [email protected], www.frenchbakery.ro. It had


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Balthazar C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 2, tel. (+4) 021212 14 60, fax (+4) 021 212 14 61, inf [email protected],www.balthazar.ro. When you no longer need a reservationto eat here on a Saturday night, you will know the globalrecession really has hit Romania. And it has not happenedyet. Yes, its by no means cheap, but the service, tableware,range of food and above all outstanding cooking make it a

joy to dine here. And whisper it, but it should be said that ifyou lay off the imported wines, Balthazar is not all that moreexpensive than other places not fit to lace its bo ots.QOpen12:00 - 24:00. . PAB

EsperantoC-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021211 36 46. I am sure the owner of this place will not mindus calling him the most famous celebrit y chef in the country,though he would be the first to admit that he is no chef. Agourmand would be a more pertinent epithet, a polymath whohas travelled the world tasting and sampling cuisines, andwho then returned home to put his experience to good use.And thats what we have here: a sensational fusion of flavoursand textures, all done with care, hence the genuine concernif something is not thought to be up to scratch. Everythingalways tastes much better if the man himself is in the kitchen:check beforehand.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. .PA

Mju C-5, Str. Vasile Lascar 29, tel. (+4) 021 313 00 15/(+4) 021 313 00 16, fax (+4) 021 313 00 28, [email protected], www.mju.ro. A very good restaurant. Superior Fusion(and we mean genuine Pan-Asian Fusion here) food in a set-ting as swish as you could h ope for. Sit yourself down on oneof the designer chairs and tuck into the divine parfait de foiegras, before feasting on the caramelized duck served with

fennel and crispy sage: the mouth waters again as we writethe review.Q Open 12:00-24:00. .PAL

GreekEl Greco E-6, B-dul Decebal 17, tel. (+4) 021 326 80 98.Son took over the ailing restaurant from father and turned itaround completely. So the new young owner is also the chefand offers you a typical selection of Greek food - but there isnot enough lamb or fish on the menu. However its good valueand packed each night. Its cheap if you dont over-order themeze.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Also at B-dul Dacia 137, tel.(+4) 0748 36 53 94. .PAEB

Olive Garden C-3, Str. Tudor Vianu 11, tel . (+4) 021 23026 30, www.olivegarden.ro. While this place doesnt lookall that inspiring from the outside, we love killing time here. Themenu is simple, vaguely Greek versions of Romanian classics,but to call it a Greek restaurant is stretching the descriptionsomewhat. Lets settle on Balkan/Mediterranean, and if we

factor in the cheap-as-chips prices we can just about give itthe thumbs up.Q Open 11:00 - 22:00. . PB

IndianBarka Saffron A-2, Str. Av. Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021224 10 04. We have been coming here since the last century,when there was precious little choice in Bucharest for peoplewanting something a little different. Now there is plenty ofchoice but we still trot up to Barka whenever we can. On ourlast visit we went for the lamb with spinach in tomato saucewhich was as good as we had hoped.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . PALES

Musafir by Amarjit Calea Rahovei 196A, tel. (+4) 074687 23 47. Indian food at The Ark for the cognoscenti. Amarjitused to cook over at Barka Saffron, but long ago set out on

Dup Revoluie(After the Revolution) is a film byLaurentiuCalciu that captures the mood on Bucharests streets inthe immediate aftermath of 1989s revolution.

The film very loosely tells the story of the first six monthsof 1990, from the announcement on February 6 by the Na-tional Salvation Front (FSN) that it would field candidatesin presidential and parliamentary elections (having initiallysaid, in the immediate aftermath of the 1989 revolution,that it would stay out of politics) to the mineriadaof June13-15, when brutal miners from the Jiu Valley violently putdown student protests against the FSN government.

Though touted as a documentary, it is more a docu-ment than documentary per se. An endlessly fascinating,intriguing, disturbing and genuinely uniqu e document. The

footage of the public arguments taking place in Piata Uni-versitatii the day after opposition supporters had organisedthe first major protest against the FSN is priceless. It showshow the country was split in two: between naive, scared

people who believed in the nu vindem ara (we will notsell the country

Bucharest - In Your Pocket - April-May 2010

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Transcript of Bucharest - In Your Pocket - April-May 2010