BROCADES

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND:

“Brocade” fabrics seems to have a long and continuous traditions in

our cultural history. This ancient tradition of weaving brocades is more

preserved in Benaras (Varanasi), than anywhere else. However there are

some other Centres in India also produce similar kind of fabrics in

Hyderabad, Ahemedabad, Aurangabad, and Surat. .

Since the Rigvedik times , we hear about several kinds of textiles

among which figures out the cloth of gold (The Hiranya) as a distinguish

type . The Gods in their resplendent grandeur wear it as they drive in their

stately chariot . The Hiranya (Sunehala or Golden) cloth has been usually

interpreted as earliest equivalent for the present days Zari Brocade or

Kimkhab Brocade.

After a vacuum of almost a thousand years or more of the post Vedic

period , we are ushered in the age of earlier Indian Empires (6 th Century BC)

about which important and contemporary literacy accounts are abundantly

available . In “Jatak tales “ and “Pali Texts” we find informations about

“TANTUVAYAS” (Weavers) and several interesting details about their

techniques . The “Jatak” supplies interesting informations about the

brocades . The silk cloth “Koseyya” was most embroidered by the Gold

wire/threads. The Kings wore turbans of Gold cloths whereas the State

Elephants also had Golden Trappings .

Initially the Gold Cloth were used to weave with fine wire/threads of

Gold, later joined by silver wire/threads producing “Sona” and “Rupa”

motifs in brocades. Later, to add more colours and variety, silk thread in

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different colours were also used in the designs of brocades describing its as

“Meenakari” in the Golden and Silver Motifs . The brocades were mainly

used in Turbans , Achkans, Angrakha, Mirjai ,Pyjama etc. and usually worn

by the Kings , Nawabs , Shenshah and Durbaries .

Definitions of Brocade:-

The term brocade is perhaps derived from the latin word “Brocare”

which means “to prick” and denotes the needle work like embroidery.

Perhaps it is the reason the brocade weaving technique is often defined as

“embroidered weaving”. A general definition of brocade is “a fabric with

intricated woven pattern which purely decorated and independent of the

structure of the cloth” , this is achieved by using extra pattern weft or extra

warp producing the effect resembles to embroidery . In general the term

brocade is restricted to richly designed fabric woven with silk and Gold or

Silver thread.

KINDS OF BROCADE:-

Kimkhab or Kamkhwab: The term Kamkhwab is a union of two

words the Kam- little and Khwab- dream, which means a kind of fabric

which is seldom or rarely seen in dreams or in other words “beyond

imagination”. Perhaps it is the splendor, and elegance of the fabric

combined with its high cost has given it the name “Kimkhab” . Its

uniqness is that it is heavily ornamented with the profound use of Gold

and Silver threads in such a manner that some times the silk background

is hardly visible . It is used mainly to make heavy ceremonial robes

(Libas), hangings and furnishings . Varanasi, Ahemedabad, Surat were

the Centres having expertise in weaving of such kind of fabrics. Since a

long a few well known verities of brocades are as under:-

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a) Alfi: - This is a kind of Zari Brocade used as Dress material

specially for tight fittings long coat such as “Sherwani”. It

is an expensive and fashionable fabric used to make

ceremonial outfits . The Gold or Silver Zari buties are

outlined with single or double colour threads and the pattern

is called “Meenakari”. The inner works is always either in

silver or gold threads. The double colour outline Alfi is more

expensive because it needed more skill and time in weaving.

It is generally produced in Varanasi only.

b) Tashi: - This is a variety of “Kimkhab” which has the fabric

ground worked with an extra warp of gold badla Zari and the

pattern created with extra weft, of silver badla zari or vice

versa . Another kind of fabric is called “Meenatashi” in

which patterns are woven either with gold or silver threads

combined with colour silk threads on a golden or silver

background. In the “Tash Badla” variety , badla is used as

extra weft on silk warp . These fabric were used to make

wedding libas , trappings , hangings etc. and they are sold by

their weight not by the yards as usual .

c) Pot Than or Bafta :- These are called Katan brocades too. In

these fabrics the silk background is patterned with silk

thread or Zari . The material is lighter in weight and used to

make expensive garments and sarees .

d) Himru or Amru:- These are woven like Kimkhab but

without the use of Kalabattu (Zari). The pattern is woven

using silk thread on silk background.

e) Mashroo:- It is a mixed fabric with a woven stripes or zig

zag pattern , the warp is usually taken silk where as in weft

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two different kind of materials either silk and cotton , cotton

and linen or silk and wool are used in different colours . It

was used mostly for making lower garments such as trousers

. Gulbadan , the literally mean “flower body” was a known

variety of Mashroo(Cotton & Silk), most popular till the late

the 19th century . “Sangli”, “Galta” and “Ilayacha”, were

other types of Mashroo. They were popular since ancient

time and produced at almost all the weaving centres in India

as mentioned above. Since , “Islam” did not allow the men

to wear pure silk, so the Mashroo (literally means

“permitted” ) became popular among Muslim men

f) Tissue:- It is a thin transparent light weight material used

mainly for turbans, weils , dupattas and sarees. However, it

is also used as dress materials. Tissue or Tarbana is made of

single silk warp and silk gold weft

g) Gysar Brocade : This is a heavy textured brocade mainly

produced for export to Buddhist Countries and is also

known as “Tibbetian Brocade”. Its production started in

Varanasi in 1920 and still continuing in Varanasi region

only. The motif used in this brocade are the religious symbol

of Buddha religion . These brocades are generally used as

furnishing and wall hangings in Buddha Temples for

performing religious rituals .

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Banaras is one of the rich weaving craft centre of India, famous for Brocade saris and allover dress material. Exclusive varieties of the saris are Jangla, Tanchoi, Vaskat, Cutwork, Tishu, and Butidar which are made of silk warp and silk weft, on plain/satian ground base, brocaded with extra weft patterns in different layouts introducing Buties, Bells, creepers, Buttas in ground, border and Anchal for getting glamours appearance.

As in the History of the India Banaras is known since regveda about 1500 year 2000 year BC and also a period of Ramayana and Mahabharat come to know identical reference about the fame of Banarasi Sharee and Fabrics as known Hiranya Vastra (Putamber Vastra).

In the ancient time Banaras was famous for the weaving of cotton saree and dress materials, but slowly switched over to silk weaving, during the Moghal period around 14th century weaving of brocades with intricate designs using gold & Silver threads was the speciality of Banaras.

          BROCADE :-

Brocade refer to those textiles where in patterns are created in weaving by transfixing or thrusting the pattern-thread between the warp. In regular weaving the weft thread passes over and under the warp thread regularly. But when brocade designs in gold, silver silk or cotton threads are to be woven, special threads are transfixed in between by skipping the passage of the regular weft over a certain number of warp threads (depending upon the pattern) and by regularising the skipping by means of pre-arranged heddles for each type of patterning. There may be several sets of heddles so arranged that on different occasions, they raise and depress irregular number of threads in turn, as required by the exigencies of the pattern.

Zari-brocades-When gold and silver threads are use along with or without silk-threads, thrust either as special weft or warp to create glittering raised or-namentation. We have the Zari brocade kind of fabrics. When we talk of gold or silver threads. It is to be under stood that the gold,threads are actually only silver threads with gold polish and that these threads are obtained by closely winding extremely fine gold or silver wire around a silk thread.

According to Sir George Watt, When the gold and silver threads were used so densely that the ground was hardly visible, the material was kinkhab proper and was too heavy for clothing, it was therefore used for trappings, hangings and furnishing. Only that material in which the Zari patterns were scattered was true brocade. This was used for clothing.

          BANARAS SILK JAMDANI :-

The silk Jamdani, a technical variety of brocade or the 'figured muslin' ,traditionally woven in Banaras may be considered to be one of the finest products to come out of  the Banarasi loom. Here silk fabric is brocaded with cotton and rarely with zari threads. jamdani is woven by transfixing the pattern thread between a varying number of warp threads in proportion to the size of the designed then throwing the shuttle to pass the regular weft. By repeating this process, where in the size and placing of the cut-thread is in accordance with the character of the pattern, the Jamdani weaver produces arrange of intricate designs.

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Some of the traditional motifs of Jamdani included Chameli (Jas mine), panna hazar (Thousand emeralds) genda buti (marigold flower)pan buti (leaf form) tircha (diagonally striped) etc. The most attractive design feature of the Jamdani sari was konia or a corner-motif having a floral mango buta.

It has own special character of (URTU) Binding in the figured disignes on ground fabrics using extra weft designs thread dampatch technique for the or namentation of the sharee. It is silk x silk base fabrics or-namented with extra looking and technique of weaving in karhuwan.

          JANGLA SAREE :-

Brocade weavers of Banares have often endeavoured to add a sense of gaiety and festivity by brocading patterns in colourful silk threads amidst the usual gold and silver motifs ;of the brocade convention. The present sari is an example in which muga silk motifs have been in laid. Jangala wildly scrolling and spreading vegetation motif is among the eldest in Banares brocades. This old rose sari is embellished with beautifully contrasted gold-creepers and silver flowers of the Jangala motif.The borders have brocaded running creepers in muga silk and gold and silver-Zari threds.The end panel is a combination of motifs of the borders and condensed Jangala of the field. Muga silk brocading in-hances the beauty of the sari while reducing the cost. All over Jal Jangla design to get the stylish work of the sarees and also used mena work for the decoration of the fabrics. The exclusive design saree has time taking skilled work, costly fabrics are widely accepted during the wedding occassion.

          JAM WAR TANCHOI SARI :-

Using a technique similar to that of brocade, weavers of Banaras weave saris using colorful extraweft silk yarn for patterning . This varietyis known as tanchoi. This maroon-coloured sari in satin weave is brocaded with elaborate motifs from the Jamawar shawl tradition from Kashmir, the characteristic feature of which was paisley motif, often elaborated into a maze which would look kateidos-copic in character. The field has a densely spread minute diaper of Jamawar style paisley. The end panel has large motifs of multiple paisley forms-one growing out of the other. The border, as well as the cross-borders of the end panel, have miniature paisley creepers. Tanchoi fabric has remarkable fame in the India as well as all over in the world widely acceptable to all kind of the people.

          TISSU SAREE :-

The renowned Zari brocade weavers of Banaras has evolved a technique of weaving tissue material which looked like golden cloth. By running Zari in weft a combination of Zari and silk in extra-weft (pattern thread) and silk in warp, the weave of this sari has densely patterned with golden lotuses floating in a glimmering pond.The 'drops of water' are created by cut work technique. The borders and the end panel have a diaper of diamond patterns enclosed by a border of running paisley motifs. Tissue saris are most popular as wedding saris among the affluent. Tissue sari has glazed, shining character due to the use of real gold Zari/Silver Zari in weft on silk worp ground are ornamented with the particulars traditional design such as Jangla Butidar, Shikargah menadar etc.

          CUTWORK SAREE :-

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This type of saree prepared by cut work technique on plain ground texture after removing of the floated thread which are not design (Woven) during the weaving process which provide good transparent look.

Cut work is the cheaper version of the Jamdani variety. In cut work the ;pattern is made to run from selvage to selvage letting it hang loosely between two motifs and the extra-thread is then cut manually, giving the effect of Jamdani.

          BUTIDAR SAREE :-

The most striking feature of this dark blue silken saree is that it is brocaded with pattern threads of gold, silver and silk. Due to darkar shade of gold and lighter of silver this variety of patterning in brocade is conventionally known as Ganga-Jamuna, indicating the confluence of these two river whose waters are believed to be dark and light receptively. The end panel has a row of arches, in each of which a bouquet of flowers is placed. A slightly smaller and variegated bouquet is diapered all over the field.

The butidar saree is a rich kind of the Banaras Saree in high traditional pattern and motiff of the design locally popularised such as Angoor Bail, Gojar Bail, Luttar Bail, Khulta bail, Baluchar bail, Mehrab bail, Doller butti,Ashraffi Butti, Latiffa Butti, Reshem Butti Jhummar Butti,Jhari Butta, Kalma Butti,Patti Butti, Lichhi Butti, Latiffa Butta, Kairy Kalanga Thakka Anchal, Mehrab Anchal, Baluchar Butta with the use of real gold and silver Jari and Katan silk in the weft.

          Diversification of Traditional Product:

Keeping in view to get global market, the need for the diversification of traditional Varanasi Sarees and dress material was felt long ago. Slowly but standly production of these items are gaining momentum. The main item which have been diversified are named below:-

1. Stole 22"*72" 2. Scarf 45"*90", 36"*36", 36"*90" 3. Muflar 11"*72", 10"*60" 4. Mats 16"*16", 18"*18" 5. Dress material Running 6. Furnishing Running 7. Wall Hanging Various diamention 8. Made ups like Curtain, cussion cover,

Table cover, Napkins, Runners etc.

Since the fashion of the international Consumer changes time to time. Therefore making pace with the same the Handloom weavers have to switching over to the new type of products, keeping alive their traditional skills, for earning comparatively better wages. In the Banaras following localty are famous for weaving of different traditional Diversified products.

Madanpura, Reori talab, Bajardeeha, Ram Nagar, Lohta, Bari Bazar, Pili Kothi, Chittanpura, Doshipura and Lallapura etc.

Angika Hathkargha Vikas Udyog Sahkari Samiti Ltd.

      MANUFACUTERS & DEALERS of : BANARASI SILK SAREES & DRESS MATERIAL Address. 1/88. Gola Ghat, Ramnagar Varanasi-221008 Banarasi Silk Saree

Tanchhua Patola Warp - Katan ( Mulbery Silk) 20*22 Width - Katan ( Mulbery Silk)

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20*22 Length of Saree - 5.50Mts-5.65Mts. Width of Saree - 45"-46" Colour - Fast Price - Rs.2700.00

Banarasi Silk Saree Tanchhuai Patala Warp - Katan ( Mulbery Silk) 20*22 Width - Katan ( Mulbery Silk) 20*22 Length of Saree - 5.50Mts - 5.65Mts Width of Saree - 45"-46" Colour - Fast Price - 2700.00

Silk Durje/ Table Cloth Warp - Katan (Mulbery Silk)  - Art Silk, Zari Length - .80Cm. Width - .75Cm. Colour - Fast Price - 400.00

Banarasi Silk Saree Patola Booti Warp - Katan (Mulbery Silk) 20*22 Width - Zarjet Length of Saree - 5.50Mts-5.65Mts Width of Saree - 45"-46" Colour - Fast Price - 1600.00

Diamand Silk Co-operative Society Ltd. Development Commissnor for Handioom Govt. of India (Ministry of Textiles) (Under Export Promotion Plans) Add. (Handloom Complex) J.11/63-101.Nati Imli Bunkar Colony Varanasi-221002

GRAND INDUSTRIAL CO_OPERATIVE SOCIETY ltd. Phone:2331555,2336036,2336376,-A.26/1-A-11.Hasanpura,Varanasi-221001.

M/s J. R. Ivory, Arts & Curios, D-20, Vishvanath Gali, Varanasi

M/s Chaudhary Brothers, Thatheri Bazar, Varanasi

M/s Mahalaxmi Sari House, 10, Chandrika Nagar Colony, Sigra , Varanasi

M/S Bhagwan Silks, S-10/86, Sarnath, Varanasi

1. Hand Embroidery with Brocaded Scarves 22"*72" Price - 450.00 P.M. 2. Banarsi Scarves 22"*72" Price - 400.00 3. Banarasi Scarves 22"*72" Price - 475.00 4. Crushed Tissue Scarves Length - 2.40Mts. Width - 36" Price - 475.00 5. Banarasi Scarves 22"*72" Price - 625.00

Diamond Silk Cooperative Society Ltd. Handloom Complex J.11/63-101 Nati Imli Bunkar Colony Varanasi-221002

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In India saree is considered almost like a traditional dress. You get lots of varieties in saree. You can get sarees from all over India. Most of the sarees get the name of the area from which it is produced. Some of the names are :

Chikan Bandhani Banarasi Kota Tant Baluchari Kantha Paithani Chanderi Ikat Narayanpeth Pochampalli Gadwall Venkatgiri Mysor silk

All the above mentioned sarees are the product of India. One can get sarees from our neighboring countries. Bangladesh produces variety of sarees. Some of them are :

Dhakai

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