BORNEO, INDONESIA JANUARY 2013 Murphy Document 1.pdf · 2013-04-03 · BORNEO, INDONESIA JANUARY...

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BORNEO, INDONESIA JANUARY 2013 Borneo is the third-largest island in the world. It consists of three countries: Indonesia, which comprises 73% of the island’s land area, Malaysia, which comprises 26%, and Brunei, which takes up 1%. The rainforest here is 130 million years old, making it the oldest rainforest in the world. The island has 15,000 species of flowering plants, 300 species of trees, 221 species of terrestrial mammals, 420 species of birds, 440 species of freshwater fish and is one of two remaining natural habitats for the endangered orangutan. The World Wide Fund for Nature states that 361 animal and plant species have been discovered in Borneo since 1996. Unfortunately, the rainforest is rapidly shrinking due to heavy logging, especially by the palm oil corporations who own massive plantations throughout the region. The EU has just approved palm oil for bio-fuel, which will not help matters. Borneo has approximately 20,000,000 inhabitants with most living along the coast. The population consists of Malays, Banjar, Chinese and Dayak ethnic groups. Dayak is a loose term for over 200 ethnic sub-groups living in the interior of Borneo, each having its own culture, laws, dialects and customs. They were once feared for their headhunting traditions but a mass conversion to Christianity and Islam put a stop to it. Monday We started our journey in Pangkalanbun after travelling from JFK to Hong Kong and then on to Jakarta. In Pangkalanbun we were met by Irene, our tour coordinator from San Diego, who works closely with Dr. Birute Mary Galdikas, founder of Orangutan Foundation International and Camp Leakey. Dr. G, as I will call her, led our trip to see the orangutans. Dr. Birute Mary Galdikas was raised in Canada and studied at UCLA. While there as a graduate student she met Louis Leakey, a renowned archaeologist. She spoke to him about her desire to study orangutans. He had previously sponsored Dian Fossey to study gorillas and Jane Goodall to study chimpanzees. Although hesitant at first, he eventually agreed to sponsor Dr. G and in

Transcript of BORNEO, INDONESIA JANUARY 2013 Murphy Document 1.pdf · 2013-04-03 · BORNEO, INDONESIA JANUARY...

BORNEO, INDONESIA JANUARY 2013

Borneo is the third-largest island in the world. It consists of three countries: Indonesia, which comprises 73% of the island’s land area, Malaysia, which comprises 26%, and Brunei, which takes up 1%. The rainforest here is 130 million years old, making it the oldest rainforest in the world. The island has 15,000 species of flowering plants, 300 species of trees, 221 species of terrestrial mammals, 420 species of birds, 440 species of freshwater fish and is one of two remaining natural habitats for the endangered orangutan. The World Wide Fund for Nature states that 361 animal and plant species have been discovered in Borneo since 1996. Unfortunately, the rainforest is rapidly shrinking due to heavy logging, especially by the palm oil corporations who own massive plantations throughout the region. The EU has just approved palm oil for bio-fuel, which will not help matters. Borneo has approximately 20,000,000 inhabitants with most living along the coast. The population consists of Malays, Banjar, Chinese and Dayak ethnic groups. Dayak is a loose term for over 200 ethnic sub-groups living in the interior of Borneo, each having its own culture, laws, dialects and customs. They were once feared for their headhunting traditions but a mass conversion to Christianity and Islam put a stop to it. Monday We started our journey in Pangkalanbun after travelling from JFK to Hong Kong and then on to Jakarta. In Pangkalanbun we were met by Irene, our tour coordinator from San Diego, who works closely with Dr. Birute Mary Galdikas, founder of Orangutan Foundation International and Camp Leakey. Dr. G, as I will call her, led our trip to see the orangutans. Dr. Birute Mary Galdikas was raised in Canada and studied at UCLA. While there as a graduate student she met Louis Leakey, a renowned archaeologist. She spoke to him about her desire to study orangutans. He had previously sponsored Dian Fossey to study gorillas and Jane Goodall to study chimpanzees. Although hesitant at first, he eventually agreed to sponsor Dr. G and in

1970 she went to Tanjung Puting National Park in Borneo, Indonesia to embark on her research. Many people told her she would not be successful because orangutans are elusive and wary and live deep in the swamps, but she persevered anyhow. Not long after beginning her work in Borneo she wrote the cover story for National Geographic. After 40 years in Tanjung Puting, she has conducted the longest continuous study by one principal investigator of any mammal in the world. In 1986 she founded Orangutan Foundation International. The mission of OFI is to support conservation, protection and understanding of orangutans and their rainforest habitat while caring for ex-captive orangutan orphans. We were thrilled and very fortunate that she was leading our trip. We left from Kumai Harbor in Borneo on a klotok, a wooden riverboat, and traveled up a small tributary for about 3 hours. We were on the lookout for monkeys and birds along the riverbanks. The vegetation is very lush and green. I was concerned about our visit occurring during the rainy season, but as it turned out we saw very little rain. After a serene and peaceful trip up the river we arrived at Rimba Lodge, an eco-lodge that can only be accessed by water.

A Klotok Entrance to Rimba Lodge Tuesday This morning we cruised up the Sekonyer River to Camp Leaky to observe the orangutans. Camp Leakey is where Dr. G originally started her research. It is a place to view wild and rehabilitated orangutans. Dr. G spends much time in Pangkalanbun where OFI has purchased land and opened the Orangutan Care Center and Quarantine. The original care facility was at Camp Leakey but over the years she was hassled so much she bought her own land and moved. Camp Leakey is now part of Tanjung Puting National Park. If you want to get a real understanding of what Dr. G went through, read her book “Reflections of Eden.” It details her time spent hiking in swamps up to her waist while following and studying orangutans, having malaria for weeks on end and wearing damp clothes due to the intense humidity, not to mention the intimidation she endured from the logging industry and the locals who kept orangutans as pets. Originally there was $120 million worth of illegal logs coming through the park. Now the Indonesian government supports her, but there were troubling and difficult experiences she had that she does not care to discuss in detail. She is now in the process of raising funds to buy land around the border of the park to protect it from palm oil plantations.

Heading upriver to Camp Leakey The water changes from brown to black due to dead

vegetation not decomposing. This type of forest is called peat swamp.

Once we arrived at Camp Leakey for the afternoon feeding we were able to see many orangutans. We even got to interact with an adult female orangutan named Siswi, who was featured in the 2011 IMAX movie “Born To Be Wild.” The film documents Dr. G’s rehabilitation work with orangutans. We spent the better part of the very hot and humid day at the park observing the orangutans and taking pictures. It was awesome. I was captivated by the diversity and lushness of the vegetation as well as the peacefulness of being away from civilization and in tune with nature.

The orangutans have a pecking order and no other orangutans venture near when the alpha female is feeding. Dr. G has named all the orangutans and can identify each and every one. We then walked back down the trail to head for the klotok to travel back downriver to our lodge. Along the river on the way to and from Camp Leakey we saw rare proboscis monkeys. They travel in groups, have long Jimmy Durante-type noses, and have white hair around their tail

region. We also looked for hornbills, birds of the tropical forest noted for their downward curving bills.

Proboscis monkeys

Wednesday We headed back to Tanjung Puting National Park in hopes of seeing Tom, an adult alpha male orangutan. The adult male’s arm span can be as long as 8 feet and they can weigh up to 300 pounds. In general, wild orangutans spend most of their time eating, sleeping or traveling in the canopies of the trees. They eat mainly ripe fruit, young leaves, bark, flowers, honey, insects, and love the fruit of the durian tree. They usually do not travel in groups and can be solitary. They are very aloof with each other and very rarely acknowledge each other’s presence, unless annoyed. They do not make eye contact. Our hopes were met when Tom appeared at the feeding platform. He is an awesome creature. You can see the power emanating from his body. No other orangutans ventured near since he is the alpha male. Eventually he left and another sub-adult male and female came by. We saw the male consorting with the female. This means he was watching her every move including watching her eat fruit. Tom was in the distance and must not have liked having the other male around because he started long calling. It was the only long call we heard on the trip. This is a rare thing to hear so we felt lucky to be there at this moment.

An adult male orangutan named Dayuk

Thursday After breakfast we boarded speedboats for the trip back to Pangkalanbun to visit the Care Center. On our way down the river we stopped at a local village and visited a school where the children

showed us how much English they know. They sang songs and we in turn sang a song back to them.

Village schoolchildren

We then made our way to the Care Center. Visiting the Care Center is something few people get to experience. We toured the medical and quarantine center and had the opportunity to see orangutan orphans in the forest learning the survival skills they need in order to live back in the wild. During the interaction we had to keep our belongings securely fastened, otherwise they would snatch them. A favorite moment was seeing a mischievous orangutan grab our water bottle and either drink it or pour it over himself. Oh my goodness they are cute. Through OFI you can “adopt” your own orangutan orphan and get updates on how he or she is doing. My husband and I chose to adopt an orangutan named Lear. I also fell in love with Melly so I had to adopt her too, of course.

My sweet Melly Just hanging around and

looking for mischief It is so endearing to know that someone is looking out for these little munchkins. It can break your heart to think that these orphans have been separated from their mothers mostly because of palm oil plantations. Since babies stay with their mothers for a few years, they need guidance to acquire hunting skills. These little ones need to grow up and have a family of their own. They need help. If you feel inclined, go to the OFI website to help. Dr. G and OFI are in much need of funds to help in this arduous task to save the red apes. And if you want to have the time of your life, go on an adventure with OFI. You won’t be disappointed! It’s the trip of a lifetime!