Body dimensions for apparelr s i-QC’ 100.U56 1994 #5411 L, Yung-TsunTinaLee...
Transcript of Body dimensions for apparelr s i-QC’ 100.U56 1994 #5411 L, Yung-TsunTinaLee...
r s
i-QC’
100
.U56
1994
#5411
L,
Yung-Tsun Tina Lee
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCETechnology Administration
National Institute of Standards
and Technology
Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory
Factory Automation Systems Division
Gaithersburg, MD 20899
NIST
Body Dimensions for Apparel
Yung-Tsun Tina Lee
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF CXDMMERCETechnology Administration
National Institute of Standards
and Technology
Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory
Factory Automation Systems Division
Gaithersburg, MD 20899
April 1994
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCERonald H. Brown, Secretary
TECHNOLOGY ADMINISTRATIONMary L Good, Under Secretary for Technolc^
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF STANDARDSAND TECHNOLOGYArati Prabhakar, Director
DISCLAIMER
Certain commercial equipment, instruments, or materials are identified in this report in order to
facilitate understanding. Such identification does not imply recommendation or endorsement by
the National Institute of Standards and Technology, nor does it imply that the materials or
equipment identified are necessarily the best available for the purpose.
Body Dimensionsfor Apparel
Y. Tina Lee
Factory Automation Systems Division
Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory
National Institute of Standards and Technology
Gaithersburg, MD 20899
ABSTRACT
Anthropometric data and apparel sizing is an important component of apparel quality. Apparel can
not be top quality unless it fits the potential wearers satisfactorily. In the United States, current
sizing standards rely on body measurement data that were gathered by the U.S. Department of
Agriculture during the late 1930’ s. Apparel must fit today’s population. Except for the study by
the American Society for Testing and Materials to improve sizing for women over age 55, there
has been no comprehensive anthropometric study of today’s diverse population undertaken in the
United States. Related issues such as definitions of body dimensions, body type classifications,
measurement techniques, target population groups, and database management methods for the
collection of body measurements all are important topics for apparel researchers.
This report represents a compilation of body dimensions that are used in the manufacturing and
fitting of apparel. It is the result of a comparison of five body measurements reports, including
documentations of national and international apparel sizing standards. The information in this
report wiU provide the basis for the development of the information model of made-to-measure
pattern making. It will also contribute to the conducting of future body measurements surveys and
the development of new or improved sizing standards for apparel.
KEY WORDS
anthropometry; apparel; APDES; body dimensions; body measurements; fit; patterns; sizing
Page 2
INTRODUCTION
The apparel industry has used computer systems to automate many of its manufacturing processes.
However, the manufacturing innovations often stand alone as “islands of automation.” Integrating
the separate automated processes could greatly improve the effectiveness of the entire enterprise.
In recent years, the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), under the sponsorship
of the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA), has been developing the apparel product data exchange
standard (APDES) [LEEl]. The goal of the APDES project is to develop a comprehensive
specification for sharing apparel product data among all stages of the product life cycle. We, the
APDES project members at NIST, have determined a set of manufacturing data interfaces that
could be standardized for the effective integration of the information systems required to operate
an apparel manufacturing enterprise [MONO]. We have also developed an information model for
ready-to-wear pattern making, which is one of the manufacturing data interfaces being identified
[LEE2].
We are currently developing an information model of made-to-measure pattern making and have
conducted a literature survey on made-to-measure technology. As a result of the survey, a
bibliography on apparel sizing and related issues has been generated for the quick use of apparel
researchers [LEE3]. We are now working on a task to determine and organize the body dimensions
necessary for manufacturing and fitting garments. The organized body dimensions can then be
modelled and exchanged in an efficient manner with the apparel enterprise processes that need
them.
One of the critical problems that impact the future development of made-to-measure quality
garments is the need for reliable and accurate anthropometric data. Many designers,
manufacturers, retailers, and customers are also concerned that the current apparel sizing standards
do not describe the body configurations of today’s population. The apparel industry needs
consistent and accurate apparel sizing standards that reflect body measurements of today’s
population in order to increase the quality of ready-to-wear garments.
The purpose of this report is to present body dimensions that are needed for the fit and manufacture
of garments and patterns. The body dimensions will provide the basis for the development of the
information model of made-to-measure pattern making. It also provides a suggested list of data
requirements for the collection of body measurements. The next section. Methodology, describes
the process of compiling body dimensions. The Entries ofBody Dimensions Table section lists
types of information included in the Body Dimensions Table. The Table itself is shown in
Appendix B. Appendix A is a compilation of principal body landmarks that are used in the
definitions of Body Dimensions Table. The Summary section contains concluding remarks.
METHODOLOGY
There exists a wealth of anthropometric data collection, such as Anthropometry ofWomen of U.
S. Army [CHUR], Anthropometry of Air Force Women [CLAU], the National Aeronautics and
Space Administration’s Anthropometry for Designers [MCCO], the Department of Agriculture’s
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Body Measurements for Garment and Pattern Constmction [OBRI], etc. These anthropometric
data were taken from different sources which used different body dimensions, body measurement
methods, body referencing systems on different target population for different applications. For
example, the Anthropometry for Designer was tailored to meet the needs of engineers engaged in
the design of equipment, habitability areas, workspace layouts, life-support hardware, and clothing
for the NASA (National Aeronautics and Space Administration) Space Shuttle/Spacelab program,
and all anthropometric data were collected in the weightless environment. However, the
Anthropometry ofWomen of the U. S. Army was generated during the winter of 1976-1977 to
satisfy the need by the U. S. Army for up-to-date data on the body sizes and strength capabilities
of Army women.
This article is aimed at the study of body measurements for apparel and pattern making only.
Thus, five reports, [NBS], [NBS-m], [ISO], [ASTM], and [MD] (refer to \ht References section),
were selected as references for this study from the bibliography that was generated previously
[LEE3]. The approach of the study for this report is to compile body dimensions that will provide
a complete coverage of those in the above five references. Definitions of all body dimensions in
the references have been examined and compared. The comparison result is then summarized in a
table that lists a set of body dimensions needed in the manufacturing and fitting of apparel. Bodydimensions presented in different references with a common definition are grouped as one body
dimension. A brief summary of each reference is described as follows.
[NBS] is a report on Body Measurementsfor the Sizing ofWomen’s Patterns andApparel. It
is a voluntary product standard developed by the National Bureau of Standards (NBS). The
standard covers standard size classifications, size designations, and body measurements to
aid in the consistency of sizing of women’s apparel. It also covers applications of the sizing
system, definitions and methods of measurement, and recommended methods for identifying
products that are sized in accordance with this standard.
[NBS-m] is a report on Body Measurementsfor the Sizing ofApparelfor Men (Student). It
is another NBS voluntary apparel sizing standard that covers same information as in the
[NBS], but is aimed at young men or students.
[ISO] is a report on Garment Construction and Anthropometric Surveys - Body Dimensions.
It is an international standard developed by the International Organization for
Standardization. The standard defines the location of body dimensions for anthropometric
surveys and for the preparation of garment patterns as well as garment stands. It ilso
specifies a standard procedure for measuring the body.
[ASTM] is a report on Development ofBody Measurement Tablesfor Women 55 and Older
and the Relationship to Ready-to-Wear Garment Size. It provides the first set of specific body
measurements of women 55 years and older. The study was performed by the ASTM(American Society for Testing and Materials) Institute for Standards Research. The report
also identifies key body dimensions that are related to garment fitting problems for womenaged 55 and over.
[MD] is a report on Measurement Specification Document. It provides information of mens’
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and womens’ measurement specifications for two types of applications: interface by humanuser and interface by computer. The work was performed by the Microdynamics Inc. for
supporting the Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation’s made-to-measure technology
research project. [MD] includes two separate documents: women’s edition and mens’
edition. Sixty-six dimensions are defined in the women’s edition, while fifty-nine dimensions
are in the men’s edition. There are fifty-eight dimensions in common between men’s and
women’s. Thus, the women’s edition is used as the primary reference in this report.
ENTRIES OF BODY DIMENSIONS TABLE
Two appendices. Appendix A and Appendix B, are included in this report. Appendix A is a
glossary of body landmarks used in the definitions of body dimensions. The Standard
Terminology Relating to Body Dimensionsfor Apparel Sizing section m the “1992 Annual BookofASTM Standards” was the main reference for developing tiiis glossary [ASTM-d]. Appendix Bpresents a table containing all dimensions of the human body that are used in making patterns and
garments based on the five reports mentioned above. All measurements are made with the subject
standing upright unless otherwise specified. A total of ninety-one dimensions (items) are included
in the table. Each dimension in the table is composed of five fields: numeric identification,
dimension name, definition, category, and the references which include the dimension. The
following provides a brief description of each field.
“Identification” defines an identification number for the body dimension.
“Name” gives a name for the body dimension. Each name is specified by a string of characters.
“Definition” provides a description of body locations and process for taking body measurement.
Definitions are summarized from the five referenced reports.
“Category” gives a category for the body dimension. Five categories (girth, vertical, length, angle,
and weight) are included in the table. “Girth” is a horizontal and circular measurement of the body.
“Vertical” is a measure of the vertical distance for the required section of the body. “Length” is a
measure of the distance between two or more measurement points. “Angle” is an angle of
inclination measurement. “Weight” is a measure of the heaviness of the subject.
“References” lists a set of references by abbreviation which include the dimension and the location
of the definition (by paragraph number) in each reference.
SUMMARY
This report presents a preliminary set of body dimensions that are necessary in the manufacturing
and fitting of apparel. The information of these body dimensions will be the basis for the
development of the information model of made-to-measure pattern making. Requirements of body
measurements for different groups of people are somewhat varied. (Groups of people may depend
on ages, genders, ethnic origin, etc.) Further study may be necessary to determine body
dimensions requirements for the specific groups. For completeness, additions and modifications
to the preliminary set of body dimensions will be needed. The author expects that the information
in this report will contribute to future body measurements surveys as well as the development of
new or improved sizing standards.
REFERENCES
[ASTM] Institute for Standards Research, “Development of Body Measurement Tables for
Women 55 and Older and the Relationship to Ready-to-Wear Garment Size,” ISR 06, PCN: 33-
00006-18, ASTM Institute for Standards Research, Philadelphia, PA, 1993.
[ASTM-d] ASTM Committee D-13, “1992 Annual Book of ASTM Standards,” Volume
07.02, ASTM, Philadelphia, PA, 1992.
[CHUR] Churchill, E., Churchill, T., McConville, J. T., and White R. M., “Anthropometry
ofWomen of the U.S. Army - 1977 Report No. 2 - The Basic Univariate Statistics,” U.S. ArmyNatick Technical Report (Natick/TR-77/024), U.S. Army Natick Research and Development
Command, Natick, MA, June 1977.
[CLAU] Clauser, C. E., Tucker, P. E., McConville J. T., Churchill, E., Laubach, L. L., and
Reardon J. A., “Anthropometry of Air Force Women,” Aerospace Medical Research Laboratory
Technical Report (AMRL-TR-70-5), Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, OH, April 1972.
[ISO] International Organization for Standardization, “Garment Constmction and
Anthropometric Surveys - Body Dimensions,” ISO 8559, International Organization for Stan-
dardization, Geneva, Switzerland, 1989.
[LEEl] Lee, Y. T., “Apparel Product Data Exchange Standard,” Proceedings of the Third
Annual Apparel Research Conference: Implementing Advanced Technology, Atlanta, GA,February 1992.
[LEE2] Lee, Y. T., and Moncarz, H.T., “A Prototype Application Protocol for Ready-to-
Wear Pattern Making,” NISTIR 5115, National Institute of Standards and Technology,
Gaithersburg, MD, January 1993.
[LEE3] Lee, Y. T., “A Bibliography on Apparel Sizing and Related Issues,” NISTIR 5365,
National Institute of Standards and Technology, Gaithersburg, MD, February 1994.
[MCCO] McConville, J. T., “Anthropometric Source Book Volume I: Anthropometry for
Designers,” NASA Reference Publication 1024, National Aeronautics and Space Administration,
Scientific and Technical Information Office, 1978.
Page 6
[MD] Microdynamics PAS Committee, “Measurement Specification Document,
Women’s Edition and Mens’ Edition,” Microdynamics Inc., Dallas, TX, 1992.
[MONC] Moncarz, H. T., and Lee, Y. T., “Report on Scoping the Apparel Manufacturing
Enterprise,” Vol. 5, No. 3/4, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, MCBUniversity Press Limited, Bradford, UK, 1993.
[NBS] National Bureau of Standards, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Women’sPatterns and Apparel,” NBS Voluntary Product Standard PS 42-70, United States Department of
Commerce/National Bureau of Standards, Gaithersburg, MD, 1971.
[NBS-m] National Bureau of Standards, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Apparel for
Men (Student),” NBS Voluntary Product Standard PS 45-71, United States Department of Com-merce/National Bureau of Standards, Gaithersburg, MD, 1972.
[OBRI] Department of Agriculture, “Women’s Measurements for Garment and Pattern
Constmction,” Miscellaneous Publication No. 454, Government Printing Office, Washington
D.C., 1941.
APPENDIX
A:
Glossary
of
Principal
Body
Landmarks
Body
Landmark
Definition
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APPENDIX
B:
Table
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Dimensions
ID
Name
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Categ
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References
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The
vertical
distance
measured
from
the
midpoint
vertical
NBS
5.4.e
of
the
crotch
to
soles
of
feet
ISO
2.2.4
ASTM
B.31
Page 16
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36.
Crotch-height
The
vertical
distance
measured
from
the
midway
vertical
NBS
5.4.f
point
of
the
crotch
to
the
soles
of
feet.
ASTM
B.32
NBS-m
6.2.4
Page 17
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Waist-to-highHip
The
vertical
distance
measured
on
the
right
vertical
ASTM
B.28
side
of
the
body
from
the
waist
level
to
the
high
hip
level.
Page 18
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48.
NeckShoulder-to-bust
The
length
measured
from
the
intersection
of
length
NBS
5.5.d
shoulder
and
neck
to
the
bust
point.
ISO
2.2.15
ASTM
B.37
Page 19
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55a
Bust-width
The
horizontal
distance
measured
between
the
length
NBS
5.5.C
bust
points
(nipples)a
ISO
2ala9
ASTM
Ba36
MD
2.8
Page 21
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FrontBust-arc
The
length
measured
the
front
portion
of
the
length
NBS
5.3.a
bust
girth.
ASTM
B.18
Page 22
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66.
Cervical-to-wrist
The
distance
measured
from
the
7th
cervical
length
ISO
2.2.23
vertebra,
along
the
outside
of
the
arm,
over
NBS-m
6.4,9
the
elbovi^,
to
the
far
end
of
the
prominent
wrist
bone,
with
subject’s
arm
bent
at
right
angle
in
a
horizontal
position.
Page 23
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77.
FrontCrotch-depth
The
depth
distance
measured
at
the
midway
point
length
ASTM
B.52
of
the
crotch
using
an
L-square
with
right
angle
against
the
abdomen
and
up
against
the
crotch.
Page 25
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83.
FrontShoulder-width
The
distance
between
the
left
and
right
shoulder
length
MD
2.23
points
measured
along
the
front
of
the
shoulder
with
the
subject’s
arms
hanging
naturally.
Page 26
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