Boat Motor Service Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS1 SAFETY TOP SEAL 3-12

Removal 3-12INTRODUCTION 1-1 BOTTOM SEAL 3-13CLEANING, WAXING, Inspection 3-14-

AND POLISHING 1-1 CENTERING PINS 3-15CONTROLLING CORROSION 1-2PROPELLERS 1-2 MAIN BEARING BOLTSFUEL SYSTEM 1-7 AND CRANKCASE SIDE BOLTS 3-15LOADING 1-9 CRANKCASE COVER 3-16HORSEPOWER 1-10 Removal 3-16FLOTATION 1-10 Cleaning and Inspecting 3-16EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT 1-12 CONNECTING RODSCOMPASS 1-15 AND PISTONS 3-16STEERING 1-17 Removal 3-17ANCHORS 1-17 Disassembly 3-18MISCELLANEOUS EQUIP MENT 1-18 Rod InspectionBOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS 1-19 and Service 3-21NAVIGATION 1-19 Piston and Ring Inspection

and Service 3-222 TUNING Assembling 3-24-

CRANKSHAFT 3-27INTRODUCTION 2-1 Removal 3-27TUNE-UP SEQUENCE 2-2 Cleaning and Inspection 3-27COMPRESSION CHECK 2-3 Assembling 3-28SPARK PLUG INSPECTION 2-4-IGNITION SYSTEM 2-4- CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE 3-28SYNCHRONIZING 2-5 Honing Procedures 3-29BATTERY SERVICE 2-5 Assembling 3-30CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS 2-7 Piston and Rod AssemblyFUEL PUMPS 2-9 Installation 3-30STAR TER AND SOLENOID 2-10 Crankshaft InstallationINTERNAL WIRING HARNESS 2-11 Large Horsepower EnginesWATER PUMP CHECK 2-12 15 hp to 4-0hp 3-33PROPELLER 2-13 Crankshaft InstallationLOWER UNIT 2-14- Small Horsepower EnginesBOAT TESTING 2-15 1.5 hp, 5.0 hp, 5.5 hp,

6.0 hp, 9.5 hp 3-353 POWERHEAD Crankshaft Installation

Small Horsepower EnginesINTRODUCTION 3-1 3.0 hp, 4-.0hp, 7.5 hp 3-37

Theory of Operation 3-1 Crankcase Cover Installation 3-38CHAPTER ORGANIZATION 3-4- Main Bearing Bolt and CrankcasePOWERHEAD DISASSEMBLING 3-5 Side Bolt Installation 3-39HEAD SERVICE 3-5 Bottom Seal InstallationREED SERVICE 3-6 15 hp to 4-0hp Engines 3-39

Description 3-6 Exhaust Cover and BypassReed Valve Adjustment 3-8 Cover Installation 3-4-0Cleaning and Service 3-9 Reed Box Installation 3-4-0

BYPASS COVERS 3-10 Head Installation 3-4-1EXHAUST COVER 3-11 BREAK-IN PROCEDURES 3-4-1

Cleaning 3-11 EXPLODED DRAWINGS 3-4-2- 3-50

". FUEL SYNCHRONIZA TION FUEL ANDIGNITION SYSTEMS 5-26

INTRODUCTION 4--1 Primary Pickup AdjustmentsGENERAL CARBURETION and Locations 5-26

INFORMATION 4--1FUEL SYSTEM 4--4- 6 ELECTRICALTROUBLESHOOTING 4--4-

Fuel Pump Tests 4--6 INTRODUCTION 6-1Fuel Line Test 4--7 BATTERIES 6-1Testing with Pressure Tank 4--8 Mar ine Batteries 6-1Rough Engine Idle 4--10 Battery Construction 6-2Excessive Fuel Consumption 4--11 Battery Location 6-2

CARBURETORS 4--12 Battery Service 6-2TYPE I CARBURETOR 4--13 Jumper Cables 6-5

Removal and Disassembling 4--13 Dual Battery Installation 6-5Cleaning and Inspecting 4--15 GAUGES AND HORNS 6-7Assembling 4--16 Constant-Voltage System 6-7

CHOKE SYSTEM SERVICE 4--23 SERVICE PROCEDURES 6-7Heat/Electric Choke 4--23 Temperature Gauges 6-7All Electric Choke 4--25 Warning LightsWater Choke 4--26 Thermomelt Sticks 6-8

TYPE II CARBURETOR 4--28 FUEL SYSTEM 6-8Disassembling 4--28 Fuel Gauge 6-8Cleaning and Inspecting 4--31 Fuel Gauge Hookup 6-8Assembling 4--33 Troubleshooting 6-9

ASSEMBLING CHOKES TO TACHOMETER 6-10TYPE II CARBURETORS 4--38 HORNS 6-10Adjustments 4--42 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GENERAL

TYPE III CARBURETORS 4--43 INFORMA TION 6-11Removal 4--4-3 CHARGING CIRCUIT SERVICE 6-12Cleaning and Inspecting 4--45 Troubleshooting 6-12Assembling 4--47 Generator Service 6-16Adjustments 4--50 Armature Testing 6-17

FUEL PUMP SERVICE 4--51 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-18Troubleshooting 4--52 Assembling 6-20Removal and Repair 4--52 CHOKE CIRCUIT SERVICE 6-22Cleaning and Inspecting 4-54- STARTER MOTOR CIRCUITAssembling and Installation 4--54- SERVICE 6-22

FUEL TANK AND LINE SERVICE 4--57 Circuit Description 6-22Disassembling 4--58 Starter Motor Description 6-22Cleaning and Inspecting 4--61 Troubleshooting 6-24Assembling 4--61 Testing 6-25

LATE MODEL FUEL TANK STARTER DRIVE GEAR SERVICE 6-26SERVICE 4--67 Starter Removal 6-26

5 IGNITION Drive Gear Disassembling 6-27Cleaning and Inspecting 6-27

INTRODUCTION 5-1 Assembling Type I Drive 6-28SPARK PLUG EVALUATION 5-2 Disassembling Type II 6-28POLARITY CHECK 5-3 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-28WIRING HARNESS 5-4- Assembling Type II Drive 6-28FLYWHEEL MAGNETO IGNITION 5-5 DELCO-REMY SERVICE 6-29TROUBLESHOOTING 5-6 Removal 6-29SERVICING FLYWHEEL MAGNETO

DisassemblingIGNITION SYSTEM 5-13 6-29Removal 5-13 Armature Testing 6-30Cleaning and Inspecting 5-19 Cleaning and Inspecting 6-31Assembling 5-20 Assembling 6-32

6 ELECTRICAL (CONT)AUTOLITE STARTER MOTOR

SERVICE 6-34Removal 6-34Disassembling 6-35Armature Testing 6-35Cleaning and Inspecting 6-37Assembling 6-37

PRESTOLITE STARTER MOTOR SERVICE 6-39Removal 6':'39Disassembling 6-40Armature Testing 6-40Cleaning and Inspecting 6-42Assembling 6-43

STARTER MOTOR TESTING 6-44STARTER MOTOR

INSTALLATION 6-44

7 ACCESSORIES

INTRODUCTIONSHIFT BOXES

Description OLD-STYLE DOUBLE LEVER

TroubleshootingDisassembling Cleaning and InspectionAssembling

NEW-STYLE SHIFT LEVER Troubleshooting Removal Disassembling Cleaning and InspectingAssembling

ELECTRIC GEAR BOXES ANDSINGLE LEVER CONTROL 7-12Troubleshooting 7-12Disassembling 7-14Cleaning and Inspecting 7-15Assembling 7-16

PUSH BUTTON SHIFT BOX SERVICE EVINRUDE UNITS ONLY 7-18Troubleshooting 7-19Disassembling 7-21Cleaning and Inspecting 7-22Assembling 7-22

CABLE END FITTING INSTALLA-TION AT THE ENGINE END 7-24

8· LOWER UNIT

7-17-17-17-37-37-47-57-57-67-67-87-87-9

7-10

DESCRIPTIONChapter CoverageIllustrations

TROUBLESHOOTINGMANUAL SHIFT

PROPELLER REMOVAL

8-18-18-28-28-7

DRAINING LOWER UNITLOWER UNIT SERVICE

1.5 hp to 4.0 hp -- NO SHIFTLower Unit Removal Water Pump RemovalDisassembling Cleaning and InspectingAssembling Water Pump Installation Lower Unit Installation Filling the Lower UnitPropeller Installation

LOWER UNIT SERVICEMANUAL SHIFT -- 5 HPTO 25 HP Removal Water Pump RemovalDisassembling Cleaning and InspectingAssembling Water Pump InstallationLower Unit Installation

LOWER UNIT SERVICEMANUAL SHIFT -- 28 HPTO 40 HP Removal Water Pump RemovalDisassem bling Cleaning and InspectingAssembling Lower Unit Installation

ELECTROMA TIC LOWER UNITDescriptionTroubleshooting Removal Disassembling Cleaning and InspectingAssembling Water Pump InstallationLower Unit Installation

9 HAND STARTERS

INTRODUCTIONOperation

TYPE I STAR TERCYLINDER WITH PINION GEAR5 HP and 6 HP ENGINES Starter Rope Replacement

RemovalInstallation

Starter RemovalDisassembling Cleaning and InspectingAssembling

8-8

8-88-98-9

8-108-118-138-148-158-168-16

8-178-198-19 8-208-22 8-288-318-33

8-368-37 8-388-388-418-468-50

8-538-538-538-568-578-658-668-728-74

9-19-2

9-39-49-49-49-59-79-79-7

9 HAND STARTERS (CONT)

- TYPE I STARTER CYLINDER WITH PINION GEARALL 9.5 HP ENGINES 9-11Starter Rope Replacement 9-11

Removal 9-11Installation 9-12

Starter Removal 9-12Cleaning and Inspecting 9-14Assembling 9-14Installation 9-15

TYPE II STARTER COIL SPRING WITH SWING ARMDRIVE GEAR 3HP19684 HP 1969-70 Removal Disassembling Cleaning and InspectingAssembling

TYPE III STARTER MOUNTED ATOP FL YWHEELMODEL WITH RETURN SPRINGS28 HP 1962-6330 HP195635 HP 1957-5940 HP 1960-63 Removal Cleaning and InspectingAssembling Rope Installation Starter Installation

TYPE III STARTER MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEELMODEL WITH NO RETURN SPRINGS28HP196433 HP 1965-7040 HP 1964-70 Removal Cleaning and Inspecting Assembling Rope Installation Starter Installation

TYPE III STARTER MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEELMODEL WITH ONE NYLON PAWL3 HP 1956-685.5 HP 1956-647.5 HP 1956-5810 HP 1956-6315 HP 195618 HP 1956-7020 HP 1966-7025 HP 1969-70

9-179-179-179-209-20

9-239-249-269-279-299-30

9-319-329-349-349-379-39

9-39

Removal 9-40Disassembling 9-40Cleaning and Inspecting 9-42Assembling 9-43Rope Installation 9-43Starter Installation 9-46

10 MAINTENANCE

INTRODUCTION ENGINE SERIAL NUMBERSFIBERGLASS HULLSALUMINUM HULLS BELOW WATERLINE SERVICESUBMERGED ENGINE SERVICEWINTER STORAGE LOWER UNIT SERVICE

Propeller BATTERY STORAGEPRESEASON PREPARATION

10-110-210-3 10-310-410-510-710-910-9

10-1310-13

APPENDIX

METRIC CONVERSION CHARTDRILL SIZE CONVERSION CHARTTORQUE SPECIFICATIONSPOWERHEAD SPECS TUNE-UP SPECS GEAR OIL CAPACITIESSTARTER MOTOR SPECSREGULA TOR SPECSGENERATOR SPECSCONDENSER SPECS STAR TER ROPE SPECS

A-IA-2A-3

A-4 & A-5A-6 to AI0

A-llA-12A-12A-12A-13A-14

WIRE INDENTIFICATION ORA WINGS20 hp and 25 hp -- 1971-72 A-1533 hp with Generator -- 1965-67 A-1633 hp with Generator -- 1968 A-1733 hp with Generator -- 1969-70 A-1835hp--1957-59 A-1940 hp Standard Shift

with Generator -- 1960-66 A-2040 hp Standard Shift

with Generator -- 1967-68 A-2140 hp Standard Shift

with Generator -- 1969-70 A-2240 hp Electric Shift



with Generator -- 1969-70 A-25

1SAFETY

1-1 INTRODUCTION

Your boat probably represents a sizeableinvestment for you. In order to protect thisinvestment and to receive the maximumamount of enjoyment from your boat it mustbe cared for properly while being used andwhen it is out of the water. Always storeyour boat with the bow higher than the sternand be sure to remove the transom drainplug and the inner hull drain plugs. If youuse any type of cover to protect your boat,plastic, canvas, whatever, be sure to allowfor some movement of air through the hull.Proper ventilation will assure evaporation ofany condensation that may form due tochanges in temperature and humidity.

1-2 CLEANING, \VAXING, AND POLISHING

An outboard boat should be washed withclear water after each use to remove sur-face dirt and any salt deposits from use insal t water. Regular rinsing will extend thetime between waxing and polishing. It willalso give you "pride of ownership", byhaving a sharp looking piece of equipment.Elbow grease, a mild detergent, and a brush

Whenever the boat is stored, for long or shortperiods, the bow should be slightly higher than the sternand the drain plug in the transom removed to ensureproper drainage of rain water.

will be required to remove stubborn dirt, oil,and other unsightly deposits.

Stay away from harsh abrasives or strongchemical cleaners. A white buffing com-pound can be used to restore the originalgloss to a scratched, dull, or faded area.The finish of your boat should be thoroughlycleaned, buffed, and polished at least onceeach season. Take care when buffing orpolishing with a marine cleaner not to over-heat the surface you are working, becauseyou will burn it.

A small outboard engine mounted on analuminum boat should be removed from theboat and stored separately. Under all cir-cumstances, any outboard engine must AL-WA YS be stored with the power head higherthan the lower unit and exhaust system.This position will prevent water trapped inthe lower unit from draining back throughthe exhaust ports into the power head.

Lower unit badly corroded because the zinc was notreplaced. Once the zinc is destroyed, more costly partswill be damaged. Attention to the zinc condition isextremely important during boat operation in saltwater.

1-2 SAFETY

A new zinc prior to installation. This inexpensiveitem will save corrosion on more valuable parts.

Most outboard engines have a flat areaon the back side of the powerhead. Whenthe engine is placed with the flat area onthe power head and the lower unit resting onthe floor, the engine will be in the properal titude with the power head higher than thelower unit.

1-3 CONTROLLING CORROSION

Since man first started out on the water,corrosion on his craft has been his enemy.The first form was merely rot in the woodand then it was rust, followed by otherforms of destructive corrosion in the moremodern materials. One defense against cor-rosion is to use similar metals throughoutthe boat. Even though this is difficult to doin designing a new boat, particularily theundersides, similar metals should be usedwhenever and wherever possible.

A second defense against corrosion is toinsulate dissimilar metals. This can be doneby using an exter ior coating of Sea Skin orby insulating them with plastic or rubbergaskets.

Using ZincThe proper amount of zinc attached to a

boat is extremely important. The use of toomuch zinc can cause wood burning by plac-ing the metals close together and they be-come "hot". On the other hand, using too

DIAMETERDiameter and pitch are the two basic dimensions of

a propeller. The diameter is measured across thecircumference of a circle scribed by the propellerblades, as shown.

small a zinc plate will cause more rapiddeterioration of the metal you- are trying toprotect. If in doubt, consider the fact thatis is far better to replace the zincs than toreplace planking or other expensive metalparts from having an excess of zinc.

When installing zinc plates, there aretwo routes available. One is to install manydifferent zincs on all metal parts and thusrun the risk of wood burning. Anotherroute, is to use one large zinc on the tran-som of the boat and then connect this zincto every underwater metal part throughinternal bonding. Of the two choices, theone zinc on the transom is the better way togo.

Small outboard engines have a zinc plateattached to the cavitation plate. Therefore,the zinc remains with the engine at alltimes.

1-4 PROPELLERS

As you know, the propeller is actuallywhat moves the boat through the water.This is how it is done. The propeller oper-ates in water in much the manner as a woodscrew does in wood. The propeller "bites"into the water as it rotates. Water passesbetween the blades and out to the rear inthe shape of a cone. The propeller "biting"through the water in much the same manneras a wood auger is what propels the boat.

Propeller and associated parts in order, washer,shear-pin, and nut, ready for installation.

Arrangement of propeller and associated parts, inorder, for a small horsepower engine.

Diameter and PitchOnly two dimensions of the propeller are

of real interest to the boat owner: thediameter and the pitch. These two dimen-sions are stamped on the propeller hub andalways appear in the same order: the diam-eter first and then the pitch. For instance,the number 15-19 stamped on the hub,would mean the propeller had a diameter of15 inches with a pitch of 19.

The diameter is the measured distancefrom the tip of one blade to the tip of theother as shown in the accompanying illus-tration.

The pitch of a propeller is the angle atwhich the blades are attached to the hub.This figure is expressed in inches of watertravel for each revolution of the propeller.In our example of a 15-19 propeller, thepropeller should travel 19 inches through thewater each time it revolves. If the propel-ler action was perfect and there was noslippage, then the pitch multiplied by thepropeller rpms would be the boat speed.

Most outboard manufacturers equip theirunits with a standard propeller with a diam-eter and pitch they consider to be bestsui ted to the engine and the boat. Such apropeller allows the engine to run as near tothe rated rpm and horsepower (at full throt-tle) as possible for the boat design.

The blade area of the propeller deter-mines its load-carrying capacity. A two-blade propeller is used for high-speed run-ning under very light loads.

PROPELLERS 1-3

Shear-pin installed behind the propeller instead of infront of the propeller.

A four-blade propeller is installed inboats intended to operate at low speedsunder very heavy loads such as tugs, barges,or large houseboats. The three-blade pro-peller is the happy medium covering thewide range between the high performahceuni ts and the load carrying workhorses.

Propeller SelectionThere is no standard propeller that will

do the proper job in very many cases. Thelist of sizes and weights of boats is almostendless. This fact coupled with the manyboat-engine combinations makes the propel-ler selection for a specific purpose a diffi-cult job. In fact, in many cases the propel-ler is changed after a few test runs. Properselection is aided through the use of chartsset up for various engines and boats. Thesecharts should be studied and understoodwhen buying a propeller. However, bear inmind, the charts are based on average boats

-----10 ..

Diagram to explain the pitch dimension of a propeller. The pitch is the theoretical distance a propeller would travelthrough the water if there was no slippage.

1-4 SAFETY

with average loads, therefore, it may benecessary to make a change in size or pitch,in order to obtain the desired results for thehull design or load condition.

A wide range of pitch is available foreach of the larger horsepower engines. The choice available for the smaller engines, upto about 25 hp, is restricted to one or twosizes. Remember, a low pitch takes asmaller bite of the water than the high pitchpropeller. This means the low pitch propel-ler will travel less distance through thewater per revolution. The low pitch willrequire less horsepower and will allow theengine to run faster and more efficiently.

It stands to reason, and it's true, that thehigh pitch propeller will require more horse-power, but will give faster boat speed if theengine is allowed to tu rn to its rated rpm.

If a higher-pitched propeller is installedon a boat, in an effort to get more speed,extra horsepower will be required. If theextra power is not available, the rpms willbe reduced to a less efficient level and theactual boat speed will be less than if thelower-pitched propeller had been left in-stalled.

All engine manufacturers design theirunits to operate with full throttle at, orslightly above, the rated rpm. If you runyour engine at the rated rpm, you willincrease spark plug life, receive better fueleconomy, and obtain the best performance

CAVITATION BURN

o

Cavitation (air bubbles) formed at the propeller.Manufacturers are constantly fighting this problem, asexplained in the text.

from your boat and engine. Therefore, taketime to make the proper propeller selectionfor the rated rpm of your engine at fullthrottle with what you consider to be anaverage load. Your boat will then be cor-rectly balanced between engine and pro-peller throughout the entire speed range.

A reliable tachom eter must be used tomeasure engine speed at full throttle toensure the engine will achieve full horse-power and operate efficiently and safely.To test for the correct propeller, make your run in a body of smooth water with thelower unit in forward gear at full throttle.Observe the tachometer at full throttle.NEVER run the engine at a high rpm when aflush attachment is installed. If the readingis above the manufacturer's recommendedoperating range, you must try propellers ofgreater pitch, until you find the one thatallows the engine to operate continuallywithin the recommended full throttle range.

If the engine is unable to deliver topperformance and you feel it is properlytuned, then the propeller may not be toblame. Operating conditions have a markedeffect on performance. For instance, anengine will lose rpm when run in very coldwater. It will also lose rpm when run in saltwater as compared with fresh water. A hot,low-barometer day will also cause your en-gine to lose power.

Example of a damaged propeller. This unit shouldhave been replaced long before this amount of damagewas sustained.

VentilationVentilation is the forming of voids in the

water just ahead of the propeller blades.Marine propulsion designers are constantlyfighting the battle against the formation ofthese voids due to excessive blade tip speedand engine wear. The voids may be filledwith air or water vapor, or they may actual-ly be a partial vacuum. Ventilation may becaused by installing a piece of equipmenttoo close to the lower unit, such as the knotindicator pickup, depth sounder, or bait tankpickup.

VibrationYour propeller should be checked reg-

ularly to be sure all blades are in goodcondition. If any of the blades become bentor nicked, this condition will set up vibra-tions in the drive unit and the motor. If thevibration becomes very serious it will causea loss of power, efficiency, and boat perfor-mance. If the vibration is allowed to con-tinue over a period of time it can have adamaging effect on many of the operating parts.

Vibration in boats can never be com-pletely eliminated, but it can be reduced bykeeping all parts in good working conditionand through proper maintenance and lubr i-cation. Vibration can also be reduced insome cases by increasing the number ofblades. For this reason, many racers use

Rubber hub removed from a propeller. This hub wasremoved because the hub was slipping in the propeller.

PROPELLERS 1-5

two-blade props and luxury cruisers havefour- and five-blade props installed.

Shock AbsorbersThe shock absorber in the propeller plays

a very important role in protecting theshafting, gears, and engine against the shockof a blow, should the propeller strike anunderwater object. The shock absorber al-lows the propeller to stop rotating at theinstant of impact while the power traincontinues turning.

How much impact the propeller is ableto withstand before causing the clutch hubto slip is calculated to be more than theforce needed to propel the boat, but lessthan the amount that could damage any partof the power train. Under normal propulsionloads of moving the boat through the water,the hub will not slip. However, it will slip ifthe propeller strikes an object with a forcethat would be great enough to stop any partof the power train.

I~~ - 00 RAKE

illustration depicting the rake of a propeller, asexplained in the text.

1-6 SAFETY

If the power train was to absorb animpact great enough to stop rotation, evenfor an instant, something would have to giveand be damaged. If a propeller is subjectedto repeated striking of underwater objects,it would eventually slip on its clutch hubunder normal loads. If the propeller wouldstart to slip, a new hub and shock absorberwould have to be installed.

Propeller Rake ,If a propeller blade is examined on a cut

extending directly through the center of thehub, and if the blade is set vertical to thepropeller hub, as shown in the accompanyingillustration, the propeller is said to have azero degree (00) rake. As the blade slantsback, the rake increases. Standard propel-

o 0lers have a rake angle from a to 15 •A higher rake angle generally improves

propeller performance in a cavitating orventilating situation. On lighter, fasterboats, higher rake often will increase per-formance by holding the bow of the boathigher.

Progressive PitchProgressive pitch is a blade design inno-

vation that improves performance when for-ward and rotational speed is high and/or thepropeller breaks the surface of the water.

Progressive pitch starts low at the lead-ing edge and progressively increases to thetrailing edge, as shown in ,the accompanyingillustration. The average pitch over theentire blade is the number assigned to thatpropeller. In the illustration of the progres-sive pitch, the average pitch assigned to thepropeller would be 21.

CONSTANT PITCH

Propeller with a "cupped" leading edge. "Cupping"gives the propeller a better "hold" in the water.

CuppingIf the propeller is cast with a edge curl

inward on the trailing edge, the blade is saidto have a cup. In most cases, cupped bladesimprove performance. The cup helps theblades to "HOLD" and not break loose, whenoperating in a cavitating or ventilating situ-ation. This action permits the engine to betrimmed out further, or to be mounted high-er on the transom. This is especially true onhigh-performance boats. Either of thesetwo adjustments will usually add to higherspeed.

PROGRESSIVE PITCH

Comparison of a constant and progressive pitch propeller. Notice how the pitch of the progressive pitch propeller,right, changes to give the blade more thrust and therefore, the boat more speed.

The cup has the effect of adding to thepropeller pitch. Cupping usually will reducefull-throttle engine speed about 150 to 300rpm below the same pitch propeller withouta cup to the blade. A propeller repair shopis able to increase or decrease the cup onthe blades. This change, as explained, willal ter engine rpm to meet specific operatingdemands. Cups are rapidly becomingstandard on propellers.

in order for a cup to be the most effec-tive, the cup should be completely concave(hollowed) and finished with a sharp corner.If the cup has any convex rounding, theeffectiveness of the cup will be reduced.

Rotation Propellers are manufactured as right-

hand rotation (RH), and as left-hand rota-tion (LH). The standard propeller for out-boards is RH rotation.

A right-hand propeller can easily beidentified by observing it as shown in theaccompanying illustration. Observe how theblade slants from the lower left toward theupper right. The left-hand propeller slantsin the opposite direction, from upper left tolower right, as shown.

When the propeller is observed rotatingfrom astern the boat, it will be rotatingclockwise when the engine is in forwardgear. The left-hand propeller will rotatecounterclockwise.

1-5 FUEL SYSTEM

With Built-in Fuel TankAll parts of the fuel system should be

selected and installed to provide maximum

COUNTERCLOCKWISEOR

LEFT HAND

CLOCKWISEOR

RIGHT HAND

Right- and left-hand propellers shOWing how theangle of the blades is reversed. Right-hand propellersare by far the most popular;

PROPELLERS 1-7

service and protection against leakage. Re-inforced flexible sections should be installedin fuel lines where there is a lot of motion,such as at the engine connection. Theflaring of copper tubing should be annealedafter it is formed as a protection againsthardening. CAUTION: Compression fittingsshould NOT be used because they are soeasily overtightened, which places them un-der a strain and subjects them to fatigue.Such conditions will cause the fitting to leakafter it is connected a second time.

The capacity of the fuel filter must belarge enough to handle the demands of theengine as specified by the engine manufac-turer.

A manually-operated valve should be in-stalled if anti-siphon protection is not pro-vided. This valve should be installed in thefuel line as close to the gas tank as possible.Such a valve will maintain anti-siphon pro-tection between the tank and the engine.

Fuel tanks should be mounted in dry,well ventilated places. Ideally, the fueltanks should be installed above the cockpitfloors, where any leakage will be quicklydetected. In order to obtain maximum cir-culation of air around fuel tanks, the tankshould not come in contact with the boathull except through the necessary supports.The supporting surfaces and hold-downsmust fasten the tank firmly and they shouldbe insulated from the tank surfaces. Thisinsulation material should be non-abrasiveand non-absorbent material. Fuel tanksinstalled in the forward portion of the boatshould be especially well secured and pro-tected because shock loads in this area canbe as high as 20 to 25 g's,

A three-position valve permits fuel to be drawnfrom either tank or to be shut off completely. Such anarrangement prevents accidental siphoning of fuel fromthe tank.

1-8 SAFETY

Taking On FuelThe fuel tank of your boat should be kept

full to prevent water from entering thesystem through condensation caused by tem-perature changes. Water droplets forming isone of the greatest enemies of the fuelsystem. By keeping the tank full, the airspace in the tank is kept to an absoluteminimum and there is no room for moistureto form. It is a good practice not to storefuel in the tank over an extended period, sayfor six months. Today, fuels contain ingre-dients that change into gums when storedfor any length of time. These gums andvarnish products will cause carburetor prob-lems and poor spark plug performance. Anadditive (Sta-Bil) is available and can beused to prevent gums and varnish from forming.

Static ElectricityIn very simple terms, static electricity is

called fr icti onal electr ici ty. It is generatedby two dissimilar materials moving overeach other. One form is gasoline flowingthrough a pipe or into the air. Another formis when you brush your hair or walk across asynthetic carpet and then touch a metalobject. All of these actions cause an elec-trical charge. In most cases, static electri-city is generated during very dry weatherconditions, but when you are filling the fueltank on your boat it can happen at any time.

Fuel Tank GroundingOne area of protection against the build-

up of static electricity is to have the fuel

An OMC fuel tank equipped with a quick-disconnectfitting. This type of arrangement is handy when thetank must be removed from the boat to obtain fuel.

Old style pressure-type tank showing the fuel line tothe engine and quick-disconnect fitting.

tank properly grounded (also known as bond-ing). A direct metal-to-metal contact fromthe fuel hose nozzle to the water in whichthe boat is floating. If the fill pipe is madeof metal, and the fuel nozzle makes a goodcontact with the deck plate, then a goodground is made.

As an economy measure, some boats userubber or plastic filler pipes because ofcompound bends in the pipe. Such a fill linedoes not give any kind of ground and if yourboat has this type of installation and you do

Adding fuel to a six-gallon OMC fuel tank. Somefuel must be in the tank before oil is added to preventthe oil from accumulating on the tank bottom.

not want to replace the filler pipe with ametal one, then it is possible to connect thedeck fitting to the tank with a copper wire.The wire should be 8 gauge or larger.

The fuel line from the tank to the engineshould provide a continuous metal-to-metalcontact for proper grounding. If any part ofthis line is plastic or other non-metallicmaterial, then a copper wire must be con-nected to bridge the non-metal material.The power train provides a ground throughthe engine and drive shaft, to the propellerin the water.

Fiberglass fuel tanks pose problems oftheir own. One method of grounding is torun a copper wire around the tank from thefill pipe to the fuel line. However, such awire does not ground the fuel in the tank.Manufacturers should imbed a wire in thefiberglass and it should be connected to theintake and the outlet fittings. This wirewould avoid corrosion which could occur if awire passed through the fuel. CAUTION: Itis not advisable to use a fiberglass fuel tankif a grounding wire was not installed.

Anything you can feel as a "shock" isenough to set off an explosion. Did youknow that under certain atmospheric con-ditions you can cause a static explosionyourself, particularly if you are wearingsynthetic clothing. It is almost a certaintyyou could cause a static spark if you areNOT wearing insulated rubber-soled shoes.

As soon as the deck fitting is opened,fumes are released to the air. Therefore, tobe safe you should ground yourself before

A fuel tank properly grounded to prevent staticelectricity. Static electricity could be extremely dan-gerous when taking on fuel.

LOADING 1-9

opening the fill pipe deck fitting. One wayto ground yourself is to dip your hand in thewater overside to discharge the electricityin your body before opening the filler cap.Another method is to touch the engine blockor any metal fitting on the dock which goesdown into the water.

1-6 LOADING

In order to receive maximum enjoyment,with safety and performance, from yourboa t, take care not to exceed the loadcapacity given by the manufacturer. Aplate attached to the hull indicates the U.S.Coast Guard capacity information in poundsfor persons and gear. If the plate states themaximum person capacity to be 750 poundsand you assume each person to weigh anaverage of 150 lbs., then the boat couldcarry five persons safely. If you add anoth-er 250 lbs. for motor and gear, and themaximum weight capacity for persons andgear is 1,000 Ibs. or more, then the fivepersons and gear would be within the limit.

Try to load the boat evenly port andstarboard. If you place more weight on oneside than on the other, the boat will list tothe heavy side and make steering difficult.You will also get better performance byplacing heavy supplies aft of the center tokeep the bow light for more efficient plan-ing.

• •u.s. COAST GUARD

MAXIMUM CAPACITIES

PERSONS OR LBSLBS PERSONS,MOTOR,GEARH.P. MOTOR

u.s. Coast Guard plate affixed to all new boats.Whenthe blanks are filled in, the plate will indicate theCoast Guard's recommendations for persons, gear, andhorsepower to ensuresafe operation of the boat. Theserecommendations should not be exceeded, as explainedin the text.

1-10 SAFETY

CJar ifica tionMuch confusion arises from the terms,

certification, requirements, approval, regu-lations, etc. Perhaps the following mayclarify a couple of these points.

1- The Coast Guard does not approveboats in the same manner as they "Approve" life jackets. The Coast Guard applies aformula to inform the public of what is safefor a particular craft.

2- If a boat has to meet a particularregulation, it must have a Coast Guardcertification plate. The public has been ledto believe this indicates approval of theCoast Guard. Not so.

3- The certification plate means a will-ingness of the manufacturer to meet theCoast Guard regulations for that particularcraft. The manufacturer may recall a boatif it fails to meet the Coast Guard require-ments.

4- The Coast Guard certification plate,see accompanying illustration, mayor maynot be metal. The plate is a regulation forthe manufacturer. It is only a warning plateand the public does not have to adhere tothe restrictions set forth on it. Again, thepla te sets forth information as to the CoastGuard's opinion for safety on that particularboat.

Type I PFD Coast Guard approved life jacket. Thistype flotation device provides the greatest amount ofbuoyancy. NEVER use them for cushions or otherpurposes.

5- Coast Guard Approved equipment isequipment which has been approved by theCommandant of the U.S. Coast Guard andhas been determined to be in compliancewith Coast Guard specif ica tions and regula-tions relating to the materials, construction,and performance of such equipment.

1-7 HORSEPOWER

The maximum horsepower engine foreach individual boat should not be increasedby any great amount without checking re-quirements from the Coast Guard in yourarea. The Coast Guard determines horse-power requirements based on the length,beam, and depth of the hull. TAKE CARENOT to exceed the maximum horsepowerlisted on the plate or the warranty andpossibly the insurance on the boat may be-come void.

1-8 FLOTATION

If your boat is less than 20 ft. overall, aCoast Guard or BIA (Boating Industry ofAmerica) now changed to NMMA (NationalMarine Manufacturers Association) require-ment is that the boat must have buoyantmaterial built into the hull (usually foam) tokeep it from sinking if it should becomeswamped. Coast Guard requirements aremandatory but the NMMA is voluntary.

"Kept from sinking" is defined as theability of the flotation material to keep theboat from sinking when filled with water

A Type N PFD cushion device intended to be thrownto a person in the water. If air can be squeezed out otthe cushion it is no longer fit for service as a PFD.

and with passengers clinging to the hull.One restriction is that the total weight ofthe motor, passengers, and equipmentaboard does not exceed the maximum loadcapacity listed on the plate.

Life Preservers -Personal Flotation Devices(PFDs)

The Coast Guard requires at least oneCoast Guard approved life-saving device becarried on board all motorboats for eachperson on board. Devices approved areidentified by a tag indicating Coast Guardapproval. Such devices may be life preserv-ers, buoyant vests, ring buoys, or buoyantcushions. Cushions used for seating areserviceable if air cannot be squeezed out ofit. Once air is released when the cushion issquee zed, it is no longer fit as a flota tiondevice. New foam cushions dipped in arubberized material are almost indestruct-ible.

Life preservers have been classified by theU.S. Coast Guard into five distinct categories.PFDs presently acceptable on recreational boatsfall into one of these five designations. AllPFDsMUST be U.S. Coast Guard approved, in goodand serviceable condition, and of an appropriatesize for the persons who intend to wear them.Wearable PFDs MUST be readily accessible andthrowable devices MUST be immediately avail-able for use.

Type I PFD has the greatest requiredbuoyancy and is designed to turn mostUNCONSCIOUS persons in the water from aface down position to a vertical or slightlybackward posi tion, The adul t size dev iceprovides a minimum buoyancy of 22 poundsand the child size provides a minimum buoy-ancyof 11 pounds. The Type I PFD providesthe greatest protection to its wearer and ismost effective for all waters and conditions.

Type II PFD is designed to turn its wear-er in a vertical or slightly backward positionin the water. The turning action is not aspronounced as with a Type I. The devicewill not turn as many different type personsunder the same conditions as the Type I. Anadul t size device provides a minimum buoy-ancy of 15Y2 pounds, the medium child sizeprovides a minimum of 11 pounds, and theinfant and small child sizes provide a min-imum buoyancy of 7 pounds.

FLOTATION I-II

Type III PFD is designed to permit thewearer to place himself (herself) in avertical or slightly backward position. TheType III device has the same buoyancy asthe Type II PFD but it has little or noturning ability. Many of the Type III PFDare designed to be particularly useful whenwater skiing, sailing, hunting, fishing, or en-gaging in other water sports. Several of thistype will also provide increased hypothermiaprotection.

Type IV PFD is designed to be thrown toa person in the water and grasped and heldby the user until rescued. It is NOT design-ed to be worn. The most common Type IVPFD is a ring buoy or a buoyant cushion.

Type V PFD is any PFD approved forrestricted use.

Coast Guard regulations state, in generalterms, that on all boats less than 16 ft.overall, one Type I, II, III, or IV device shallbe carried on board for each person in theboat. On boats over 26 f t., one Type I, II, orIII device shall be carried on board for eachperson in the boat plus one Type IV device.

It is an accepted fact that most boatingpeople own life preservers, but too fewactually wear them. There is little or noexcuse for not wearing one because themodern comfortable designs available todaydo not subtract from an individual's boatingpleasure. Make a life jacket available to

Type IV PFD ring buoy designed to be thrown. Onocean cruisers, this type device usually has a weightedpole with flag, attached to the buoy.

1-12 SAFETY

your crew and advise each member to wearit. If you are a crew member ask yourskipper to issue you one, especially whenboating in rough weather, cold water, orwhen running at high speed. Naturally, alife jacket should be a must for non-swim-mers any time they are out on the water ina boat.

1-9 EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT

Visual Distress SignalsThe Regulation

Since January 1, 1981, Coast Guard Reg-ulations require all recreation boats whenused on coastal waters, which includes the Great Lakes, the territorial seas and thosewaters directly connected to the GreatLakes and the territorial seas, up to a pointwhere the waters are less than two mileswide, and boats owned in the United Stateswhen operating on the high seas to be equip-ped with visual distress signals.

Internationally accepted distress signals.

The only exceptions are during daytime(sunrise to sunset) for:

Recrea tional boats less than 16 ft. (5meters) in length.

Boats participating in organized eventssuch as races, regattas or marine parades.

Open sailboats not equipped with propul-sion machinery and less than 26 ft. (8 me-ters) in length.

Manually propelled boats.The above listed boats need to carry

night signals when used on these waters atnight.

Pyrotechnic visual distress signaling de-vices MUST be Coast Guard Approved, in serviceable condition and stowed to be read-ily accessible. If they are marked with ada te showing the serviceable life, this date must not have passed. Launchers, producedbefore Jan. 1, 1981, intended for use withapproved signals are not required to beCoast Guard Approved.

USCG Approved pyrotechnic visual dis-tress signals and associated devices include:

Pyrotechnic red flares, hand held or aer-ial.

Pyrotechnic orange smoke, hand held orfloating.

Launchers for aerial red meteors or par-achute flares.

Moisture-protected flares should be carried on boardfor use as a distress signal.

None-pyrotechnic visual distress signal-ing devices must carry the manufacturer'scertification that they meet Coast Guardrequirements. They must be in serviceablecondition and stowed so as to be readilyaccessible.

This group includes: Orange distress flag at least 3 x 3 feet

with a black square and ball on an orangebackground.

Electric distress light -- not a flashlightbut an approved electric distress light whichMUST automatically flash the internationalSOS distress signal (.•• - - -. ..) four to sixtimes each minute.

Types and QuantitiesThe following variety and combination of

devices may be carried in order to meet therequirements.

1- Three hand-held red flares (day andnight).

2- One electric distress light (night on-ly).

3- One hand-held red flare and two par-achute flares (day and night).

4- One hand-held orange smoke signal,two floating orange smoke signals (day) andone electric distress light (day and night).

If young children are frequently aboardyour boat, careful selection and proper sto-wage of visual distress signals becomes es-pecially important. If you elect to carrypyrotechnic devices, you should select thosein tough packaging and not easy to igniteshould the devices fall into the hands ofchildren.

Coast Guard Approved pyrotechnic de-vices carry an expiration date. .This datecan NOT exceed 42 months from the date of

An adequately stocked first-aid kit should be onboard for the safety of crew and guests.

COMPASS 1-13

manufacture and at such time the devicecan no longer be counted toward the min-imum requirements.

SPECIAL WORDSIn some states the launchers for meteors

and parachute flares may be considered afirearm. Therefore, check with your stateauthorities before acquiring such a launcher.

First Aid KitsThe first-aid kit is similar to an insur-

ance policy or life jacket. You hope youdon't have to use it but if needed, you wantit there. It is only natural to overlook thisessential item because, let's face it, wholikes to think of unpleasantness when plan-ning to have only a good time. However,the prudent skipper is prepared ahead oftime, and is thus able to handle the emer-gency without a lot of fuss.

Good commercial first-aid kits are avail-able such as the Johnson and Johnson "Ma-rine First-Aid Kit". With a very modestexpenditure, a well-stocked and adequatekit can be prepared at home.

Any kit should include instruments, sup-plies, and a set of instructions for their use.Instruments should be protected in a water-tight case and should include: scissors,tweezers, tourniquet, thermometer, safety

A sounding device should mounted close to thehelmsman for use in sounding an emergency alarm.

1-14 SAFETY

pins, eye-washing cup, and a hot water bot-tle. The supplies in the kit should include: assorted bandages in addition to the varioussizes of "band-aids", adhesive tape, absorb-ent cotton, applicators, petroleum jelly, an-tiseptic (liquid and ointment), local oint-ment, aspirin, eye ointment, antihistamine,ammonia inhalent, sea-sickness pills, ant-acid pills, and a laxative. You may want toconsult your family physician about includ-ing antibiotics. Be sure your kit contains afirst-aid manual because even though youhave taken the Red Cross course, you maybe the patient and have to rely on anuntrained crew for care.

Fire ExtinguishersAll fire extinguishers must bear Under-

writers Laboratory (UL) "Marine Type" ap-proved labels. With the UL certification,the extinguisher does not have to have aCoast Guard approval number. The CoastGuard classifies fire extinguishers accordingto their size and type.

Type B-1or B-II Designed for extinguishingflammable liquids. This type extinguisher isrequired on all motorboats.

The Coast Guard considers a boat havingone or more of the following conditions as a"boat of closed construction" subject to fireextinguisher regulations.

A suitable fire extinguisher should be mounted closeto the helmsman for emergency use.

1- Inboard engine or engines.2- Closed compartments under thwarts

and seats wherein portable fuel tanks maybe stored.

3- Double bottoms not sealed to the hullor which are not completely filled withflotation materials.

4- Closed living spaces.5- Closed stowage compartments in

which combustible or flammable material isstored.

6- Permanently installed fuel tanks.

Detailed classification of fire extingui-shers is by agent and size:

B-1contains 1-1/4gallons foam, or 4 poundscarbon dioxide, or 2 pounds dry chemicalagent, or 2-1/2 pounds Halon.

B-II contains 2-1/2 gallons foam, or 15pounds carbo dioxide, or 10pounds dry chemi-cal agent, or 10 pounds Halon.

The class of motorboat dictates howmany fire extinguishers are required onboard. One B-II unit can be substituted fortwo B-1 extinguishers. When the enginecompartment of a motorboat is equippedwith a fixed (bull t-in) extinguishing system,one less portable B-1 unit is required.

Dry chemical fire extinguishers without

At least one gallon of emergency fuel should be kepton board in an approved container.

gauges or indicating devices must be weigh-ed and tagged every 6 months. If the grossweight of a carbon dioxide (CO?) fire extin-guisher is reduced by more than 10% of the net weight, the extinguisher is not accept-able and must be recharged.

READ labels on fire extinguishers. If theextinguisher is U.L. listed, it is approved formarine use.

DOUBLE the number of fire extinguish-ers recommended by the Coast Guard, be-cause their requirements are a bare MINI-MUM for safe operation. Your boat, family,and crew, must certainly be worth muchmore than "bare minimum".

1-10 COMPASS

SelectionThe safety of the boat and her crew may

depend on her compass. In many areaswea ther conditions can change so rapidlythat within minutes a skipper may find him-self "socked-in" by a fog bank, a rain squall,or just poor visibility. Under these condi-tions, he may have no other means of keep-ing to his desired course except with thecompass. When crossing an open body ofwater, his compass may be the only meansof making an accurate landfall.

During thick weather when you can nei-ther see nor hear the expected aids tonavigation, attempting to run out the timeon a given course can disrupt the pleasure ofthe cruise. The skipper gains little comfortin a chain of soundings that does not matchthose given on the chart for the expectedarea. Any stranding, even for a short time,can be an unnerving experience.

A pilot will not knowingly accept acheap parachute. A good boater should notaccept a bargain in lifejackets, fire ex-tinguishers, or compass. Take the time andspend the few extra dollars to purchase acompass to fit your expected needs. Re-gardless of what the salesman may tell you,postpone buying until you have had thechance to check more than one make and model.

Lift each compass, til t and turn it, sim-ulating expected motions of the boat. Thecompass card should have a smooth andstable reaction.

The card of a good quality compass willcome to rest without oscillations about thelubber's line. Reasonable movement in yourhand, comparable to the rolling and pitching

MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 1-15

The compass is a delicate instrument and deservesrespect. It should be mounted securely and in positionwhere it can be easily observed by the helmsman.

of the boat, should not materially affect thereading.Installation

Proper installation of the compass doesnot happen by accident. Make a criticalcheck of the proposed location to be surecompass placement will permit the helms-man to use it with comfort and accuracy.First, the compass should be placed directlyin front of the helmsman and in such aposition that it can be viewed without bodystress as he sits or stands in a posture ofrelaxed alertness. The compass should be inthe helmsman's zone of comfort. If thecompass is too far away, he may have tobend forward to watch it; too close and hemust rear backward for relief.

Do not hesitate to spend a few extra dollars for agood reliable compass. If in doubt, seek advice fromfellOW boaters.

1-16 SAFETY

Second, give some thought to comfort inheavy weather and poor visibil ty conditionsduring the day and night. In some cases, thecompass position may be partially deter-mined by the location of the wheel, shiftlever, and throttle handle.

Third, inspect the compass site to besure the instrument will be at least two feetfrom any engine indicators, bilge vapor de-tectors, magnetic instruments, or any steel

"Innocent" objects close to the compass, such as dietcoke in an aluminum can, may cause serious problemsand lead to disaster, as these three photos and theaccompanying text illustrate.

or iron objects. If the compass cannot beplaced at least two feet (six feet would bebetter) from one of these influences, theneither the compass or the other object mustbe moved, if first order accuracy is to beexpected.

Once the com pass loca tlon appears to besatisfactory, give the compass a test beforeinstallation. Hidden influences may be con-cealed under the cabin top, forward of thecabin aft bulkhead, within the cockpit ceil-ing, or in a wood-covered stanchion.

Move the compass around in the area ofthe proposed location. Keep an eye on thecard. A magnetic influence is the only thingthat will make the card turn. You canquickly find any such influence with thecompass. If the influence can not be movedaway or replaced by one of non-magneticma terial, test to determine whether it ismerely magnetic, a small piece of iron orsteel, or some magnetized steel. Bring thenorth pole of the compass near the object, then shift and bring the south pole near it.Both the north and south poles will beattracted if the compass is demagnetized.If the object attracts one pole and repelsthe other, then the compass is magnetized. If your compass needs to be demagnetized,take it to a shop equipped to do the jobPROPERLY.

After you have moved the compass a-round in the proposed mounting area, hold itdown or tape it in position. Test everythingyou feel might affect the compass and causea deviation from a true reading. Rotate thewheel from hard over to hard over. Switchon and off all the lights, radios, radio direc-tion finder, radio telephone, depth finderand the shipboard intercom, if one is instal-led. Sound the electric whistle, turn on thewindshield wipers, start the engine (withwater circulating through the engine), workthe throttle, and move the gear shift lever.If the boat has an auxiliary generator, startit.

If the card moves during anyone ofthese tests, the compass should be reloca t-ed. Naturally, if something like the wind-shield wipers cause a slight deviation, itmay be necessary for you to make a differ-ent deviation table to use only when certain pieces of equipment is operating. Bear inmind, following a course that is only off a ~degree or two for several hours can makeconsiderable difference at the end, putting you on a reef, rock, or shoal.

Check to be sure the intended compasssite is solid. Vibration will increase pivotwear.

Now, you are ready to mount the com-pass. To prevent an error on all courses, theline through the lubber line and the compasscard pivot must be exactly parallel to thekeel of the boat. You can establish thefore-and-aft line of the boat with a stoutcord or string. Use care to transfer this lineto the compass site. If necessary, shim thebase of the compass until the stile-typelubber line (the one affixed to the case andnot glrnbaled) is vertical when the boat is onan even keel. Drill the holes and mount thecompass.

Magnetic Items After InstallationMany times an owner will install an

expensive stereo system in the cabin of his boat. It is not uncommon for the speakersto be mounted on the aft bulkhead upagainst the overhead (ceiling). In almostever y case, this position places one of thespeakers in very close proximity to thecompass, mounted above the ceiling.

As we all know, a magnet is used in theoperation of the speaker. Therefore, it isvery likely that the speaker, mounted al-most under the compass in the cabin willhave a very pronounced affect on the com-pass accuracy.

Consider the following test and the ac-companying photographs as prove of thestatements made.

First, the compass was read as 190 de-grees while the boat was secure in her slip.

Next a full can of diet coke in an alum-inum can was placed on one side and thecompass read as 204 degrees, a good 14-degrees off.

Next, the full can was moved to theopposite side of the compass and again areading was observed. This time as 189degrees, 11 degrees off from the originalreading.

Finally the contents of the can wereconsumed, the can placed on both sides ofthe compass with NO affect 'on the compassreading.

'Two very important conclusions can bedrawn from these tests.

1- Something must have been in the con-tents of the can to affect the compass sodrasticall v-

NAVIGATION 1-17

2- Keep even "innocent" things clear ofthe compass to avoid any possible error inthe boat's heading.

REMEMBER, a boat moving through thewater at 10 knots on a compass error of just5 degrees will be almost 1.5 miles offcourse in only ONE hour. At night, or inthick weather, this could very possibly putthe boat on a reef, rock, or shoal, withdisastrous resul ts.

1-11 STEERING

USCG or BIA certification of a steeringsystem means that all materials, equipment,and installation of the steering parts meetor exceed specific standards for strength,type, and maneuverability. Avoid sharpbends when routing the cable. Check to besure the pulleys turn freely and all fittings are secure.

1-12 ANCHORS

One of the most important pieces ofequipment in the boat next to the powerplan t is the ground tackle carr ied, Theengine makes the boat go and the anchorand its line are what hold it in place whenthe boat is not secured to a dock or on thebeach.

The weight of the anchor MUST be adequate tosecure the boat without dragging.

1-18 SAFETY

The anchor must be of sui table size,type, and weight to give the skipper peaceof mind when his boat is at anchor. Undercertain conditions, a second, smaller, lighteranchor may help to keep the boat in afavorable position during a non-emergencydaytime situation.

In order for the anchor to hold properly,a piece of chain must be attached to theanchor and then the nylon anchor line at-tached to the chain. The amount of chainshould equal or exceed the length of theboat. Such a piece of chain will ensure thatthe anchor stock will lay in an approximatehorizontal position and permit the flutes todig into the bottom and hold.

1-13 MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT

In addition to the equipment you arelegally required to carry in the boat andthose previously mentioned, some extraitems will add to your boating pleasure andsafety. Practical suggestions would include:a bailing device (bucket, pump, e tc.), boat

The bilge pump line must be cleaned frequently toensure the entire bilge pump system will functionproperly in an ernergency,

hook, fenders, spare propeller, spare engineparts, tools, an auxiliary means of propul-sion (paddle or oars), spare can of gasoline,flashlight, and extra warm clothing. Thearea of your boating activity, weather con-di tions, length of stay aboard your boat, andthe specific purpose will all contribute tothe kind and amount of stores you putaboard. When it comes to personal gear,heed the advice of veteran boaters who say,"Decide on how little you think you can getby with, then cut it in half".

Bilge PumpsAutomatic bilge pumps should be equip-

ped with an overriding manual switch. Theyshould also have an indica tor in the opera-tor's position to advise the helmsman whenthe pump is operating. Select a pump thatwill stabilize its temperature within themanufacturer's specified limits when it isoperated continuously. The pump motorshould be a sealed or arcless type, suitablefor a marine atmosphere. Place the bilgepump inlets so excess bilge water can beremoved at all normal boat trims. Theintakes should be properly screened to pre-vent the pump from sucking up debris fromthe bilge. Intake tubing should be of a highquali ty and stiff enough to resist kinking andnot collapse under maximum pump suctioncondition if the intake becomes blocked.

To test operation of the bilge pump,operate the pump switch. If the motor doesnot run, disconnect the leads to the motor.Connect a vol tm eter to the leads and see if voltage is indicated. If voltage is not indi-cated, then the problem must be in a blownfuse, defective switch, or some other areaof the electrical system.

If the meter indicates voltage is presentat the leads, then remove, disassemble, and inspect the bilge pump. Clean it, reassem-ble, connect the leads, and operate thesw itch again. If the motor still fails to run,the pump must be replaced.

To test the bilge pump switch, firstdisconnect the leads from the pump andconnect them to a test light or ohmmeter.Next, hold the switch firmly against themounting location in order to make a goodground. Now, til t the opposite end of theswitch upward until it is activated as indica-ted by the test light coming on or theohmmeter showing continuity. Finally, low-er the switch slowly toward the mounting

position until it is deactivated. Measure thedistance between the point the switch wasactivated and the point it was deactivated.For proper service, the switch should deact-ivate between l/2-inch and 1I4-inch fromthe planned mounting position. CAUTION: The switch must never be mounted lowerthan the bilge pump pickup.

1-14 BOATING ACCIDENT REPORTS

New federal and state regulations re-quire an accident report to be filed with thenearest State boating authority within 48hours if a person is lost, disappears, or isinjured to the degree of needing medicaltreatment beyond first aid.

Accidents involving only property or equip-ment damage MUST be reported within 10days, if the damage is in excess of $500.00.Some states require reporting of accidents withpropery damage less then $500.00 or a totalboat loss. A $1,000.00 PENALTY may beassessed for failure to submit the report.

WORD OF ADVICETake time to make a copy of the report

to keep for your records or for the insurancecompany. Once the report is filed, theCoast Guard will not give out a copy, evento the person who filled the report.

The report must give details of the acci-dent and include:

1- The date, time, and exact location ofthe occurrence.

2- The name of each person who died,was lost, or injured.

3- The number and name of the vessel.4- The names and addresses of the own-

er and operator.If the operator cannot file the report for

any reason, each person on aboard MUSTnotify the authorities, or determine that thereport has been filed.

1-15 NAVIGATION

BuoysIn the United States, a buoyage system is

used as an assist to all boaters of all sizecraft to navigate our coastal waters and ournavigable rivers in safety. When properlyread and understood, these buoys and mark-ers will permit the boater to cruise withcomparative confidence that he will be able

NAVIGATION 1-19

to avoid reefs, rocks, shoals, and other haz-ards.

In the spring of 1983, the Coast Guardbegan making modifications to U.S. aids tonavigation in support of an agreement spon-sored by the International Associaiton ofLighthouse Authorities (IALA) and signed byrepresentatives from most of the maritimena tions of the wor ld, The primary purposeof the modifications is to improve safety bymaking buoyage systems around the worldmore alike and less confusing.

The modifications shown in the accom-panying illustrations should be completed bythe end of 1989.

LightsThe following information regarding

lights required on boats between sunset andsunrise or during restricted visibility is tak-en directly from a U.S. Coast Guard publi-cation dated 1984.

The terms "PORT" and "STARBOARD"are used to refer to the left and right sideof the boat, when looking forward. Oneeasy way to remember this basic fundamen-tal is to consider the words "port" and" lef ttlboth have four letters and go together.

Hookup for testing an automatic bilge pump switch.

1-20 SAFETY

Waterway RulesOn the water, certain basic safe-operat-

ing practices must be followed. You shouldlearn and practice them, for to know, is tobe able to handle your boat with confidenceand safety. Knowledge of what to do, andnot do, will add a great deal to the enjoy-ment you will receive from your boatinginvestment.

Rules of the RoadThe best advice possible and a Coast

Guard requirement for boats over 39' 4" (12meters) since 1981, is to obtain an officialcopy of the "Rules of the Road", whichincludes Inland Waterways, Western Rivers,and the Great Lakes for study and readyreference.

The following two paragraphs give aVERY brief condensed and abbreviated

almost a synopsis of the rules and should notbe considered in any way as covering theentire subject.

Powered boats must yield the right-of-way to all boats without motors, exceptwhen being overtaken. When meeting an-other boat head-on, keep to starboard, un-less you are too far to port to make thispractical. When overtaking another boat,the right-of-way belongs to the boat beingovertaken. If your boat is being passed, youmust maintain course and speed.

When two boats approach at an angle andthere is danger of collision, the boat to portmust give way to the boat to starboard.Always keep to starboard in a narrow chan-nel or canal. Boats underway must stayclear of vessels fishing with nets, lines, ortrawls. (Fishing boats are not allowed tofish in channels or to obstruct navigation.)

MODIFICATIONS: Port hand aids willbe green with green lights. All starboardhand aids will have red lights.

MODIFICATIONS: Green will replaceblack. Light rhythm will be changed toComposite Gp Fl (2 + 1).

2TUNING

2-1 INTRODUCTION

The efficiency, reliability, fuel economyand enjoyment available from engine perfor-mance are all directly dependent on havingit tuned properly. The importance of per-forming service work in the sequence detail-ed in this chapter cannot be over emphasiz-ed. Before making any adjustments, checkthe Specifications in the Appendix. NEVERrely on memory when making critical ad-justments.

Before beginning to tune any engine,check to be sure the engine has satisfactorycompression. An engine with worn or bro-ken piston rings, burned pistons, or badlyscored cylinder walls, cannot be made toperform properly no matter how much timeand expense is spent on the tune-up. Poor

Damaged piston, probably caused by inaccurate fuelmixture, or improper point setting.

compression must be corrected or the tune-up will not give the desired results.

The opposite of poor compression wouldbe to consider good compression as evidenceof a satisfactory cylinder. However, this isnot necessarily the case, when working onan outboard engine. As the professionalmechanic has discovered, many times thecompression check will indicate a satisfac-tory cylinder, but after the head is pulledand an inspection made, the cylinder willrequire service.

A clean exterior engine appearance reflects thisowner's pride in his unit. Keeping the interior welllubricated and properly adjusted will give him theenjoyment deserved for his investment.

2-2 TUNING

A practical maintenance program that isfollowed throughout the year, is one of thebest methods of ensuring the engine willgive satisfactory performance at any time.

The extent of the engine tune-up is usu-ally dependent on the time lapse since thelast service. A complete tune-up of theentire engine would entail almost all of thework outlined in this manual. A logicalsequence of steps will be presented in gen-eral terms. If additional information ordetailed service work is required, the chap-ter containing the instructions will be refer-enced.

Each year higher compression ratios arebuilt into modern outboard engines and theelectr ical systems become more complex,especially with electronic (capacitor dis-charge) units. Therefore, the need for reli-able, authoratative, and detailed instruc-tions becomes more critical. The informa-tion in this chapter and the referencedchapters fulfill that requirement.

2-2 TUNE-UP SEQUENCE

If twenty different mechanics were ask-ed the question, "What constitutes a majorand minor tune-up?", it is entirely possibletwenty different answers would be given.As the terms are used in this manual andother Seloc outboard books, the followingwork is normally performed for a minor andmajor tune-up.

Minor Tune-upLubricate engine.Drain and replace gear oil.Adjust points.Adjust carburetor.Clean exterior surface of engine.Tank test engine for fine adjustments.

The time, effort, and expense of a tune-up will notrestore an engine to satisfactory performance, if thepistons are damaged.

Major Tune-upRemove head.Clean carbon from pistons and cylinders.C lean and 0ver haul carbu retor .Clean and overhaul fuel pump.Rebuild and adjust ignition system.Lubricate engine.Drain and replace gear oil.Clean exterior surface of engine.Tank test engine for fine adjustments.

During a major tune-up, a definite se-quence of service work should be followedto return the engine to the maximum per-formance desired. This type of work shouldnot be confused with attempting to locateproblem areas of "why'! the engine is notperforming sat isfac tor ily, This work is clas-sified as "troubleshooting". In many cases,these two areas will over lap, because manytimes a minor or major tune-up will correctthe malfunction and return the system tonormal operation.

The following list is a suggested se-quence of tasks to perform during the tune-up service work. The tasks are merelylisted here. Generally procedures are givenin subsequent sections of this chapter. Formore detailed instructions, see the refer-enced chapter.

1- Perform a compression check of eachcylinder. See Chapter 3. 2- Inspect the spark plugs to determinetheir condition. Test for adequate sparkat the plug. See Chapter 5. 3- Start the engine in a body of waterand check the water flow through theengine. See Chapter 8. 4-'- Check the gear oil in the lower unit.See Chapter 8.

A boat and lower unit covered with marine growth.Such a condition is a serious hinderance to satisfactoryperformance.

5- Check the carburetor adjustmentsand the need for an overhaul. See Chap-ter 4. 6- Check the fuel pump for adequateperformance and delivery. See Chapter4.7- Make a general inspection of the igni-tion system. See Chapter 5. 8- Test the starter motor and the sole-noid. See Chapter 6. 9- Check the internal wiring.

10- Check the synchronization. SeeChapter 5.

2-3 COMPRESSION CHECK

A compression check is extremely im-portant, because an engine with low or un-even compression between cylinders CAN-NOT be tuned to operate satisfactorily.Therefore, it is essential that any compres-sion problem be corrected before proceedingwith the tune-up procedure. See Chapter 3.

If the powerhead shows any indication ofoverheating, such as discolored or scorched paint, especially in the area of the top (No.l) cylinder, inspect the cylinders visuallythru the transfer ports for possible scoring.A more thorough inspection can be made ifthe head is removed. It is possible for acylinder with satisfactory compression to bescored slightly. Also, check the waterpump. The overheating condition may becaused by a faulty water pump.

Removing the spark plugs for inspection. Wornplugs are one of the major contributing factors to poorengine performance.

COMPRESSION CHECK 2-3

An overheating condition may also becaused by running the engine out of thewater. For unknown reasons, many opera-tors have formed a bad habit of running asmall engine without the lower unit beingsubmerged. Such a practice will result in anoverheated condition in a matter of seconds.It is interesting to note, the same operatorwould never operate or allow anyone else torun a large horsepower engine without watercirculating through the lower unit for cool-ing. Bear-in-mind, the laws governing oper-ation and damage to a large unit ALL applyequally as well to the small engine.

Checking CompressionRemove the spark plug wires. ALWAYS

grasp the molded cap and pull it loose with atwisting motion to prevent damage to theconnection. Remove the spark plugs andkeep them in ORDER by cylinder for evalua-tion later. Ground the spark plug leads tothe engine to render the ignition systeminoperative while performing the compres-sion check.

Insert a compression gauge into theNo.1, top, spark plug opening. Crank theengine with the starter, or pull on thestarter cord, thru at least 4 completestrokes with the throttle at the wide-openposition, or until the highest possible read-ing is observed on the gauge. Record thereading. Repeat the test and record thecompression for each cylinder. A variation

A compression check should be. taken in each cylin-der before spending time and money on tune-up work.Without adequate compression, efforts in other areas toregain engine performance will be wasted.

2-4 TUNING

Damaged spark plugs. Notice the broken electrodeon the left plug. The broken part must be found andremoved before returning the engine to service.

between cylinders is far more importantthan the actual readings. A variation ofmore than 5 psi between cylinders indicatesthe lower compression cylinder may be de-fective. The problem may be worn, broken,or sticking piston rings, scored pistons orworn cylinders. These problems may only bedetermined after the head has been remov-ed. Removing the head on an outboardengine is not that big a deal and may savemany hours of frustration and the cost ofpurchasing unnecessary parts to correct afaulty condition.

2-4 SPARK PLUG INSPECTION

Inspect each spark plug for badly wornelectrodes, glazed, broken, blistered, or leadfouled insulators. Replace all of the plugs,if one shows signs of excessive wear.

Make an evaluation of the cylinder per-formance by comparing the spark conditionwith those shown in Chapter 5. Check eachspark plug to be sure they are all of thesame manufacturer and have the same heatrange rating.

FOULEDELECTRODES

A foul spark plug. The condition of this plugindicates problems in the cylinder that should be cor-rected.

Inspect the threads in the spark plugopening of the head and clean the threadsbefore installing the plug. If the threads aredamaged, the head should be removed andand a Hell-coil insert installed. If an at-tempt is made to drill out the opening withthe head in place, some of the filings mayfall into the cylinder and cause damage tothe cylinder wall during operation. Becausethe head is made of aluminum, the filingscannot be removed with a magnet.

When purchasing new spark plugs, AL-WAYS ask the marine dealer if there hasbeen a spark plug change for the enginebeing serviced.

Crank the engine through several revo-lutions to blowout any material whichmight have become dislodged during clean-mg.

Install the spark plugs and tighten themto a torque value of 17 ft-lbs. ALWAYS usea new gasket and wipe the seats in the blockclean. The gasket must be fully compressedon clean seats to complete the heat transferprocess and to provide a gas tight seal in thecy Iinder, If the torque value is too high, theheat will dissipate too rapidly. Conversely,if the torque value is too low, heat will not dissipate fast enough.

2- 5 IGNITION SYSTEM

Only one ignition system, a flywheel-magneto, is used on outboard engines cover-ed in this manual. If the engine perfor-mance is less than expected, and the igni-tion is diagnosed as the problem area, referto Chapter 5 for detailed service proce-dures. To properly synchronize the ignitionsystem with the fuel system, see Chapter 5.

Today, numerous type spark plugs are available forservice. ALWAYS check with your local marine dealerto be sure you are purchasing the proper plugs for theengine being serviced.

Worn ignition points are a common problem areacontributing to poor engine performance.

Breaker PointsRough or discolored contact surfaces is

sufficient reason for replacement. The camfollower will usually have worn away by thetime the points have become unsatisfactoryfor efficient service.

Check the resistance across the con-tacts. If the test indicates ZERO resis-tance, the points are serviceable. A slightresistance across the points will affect idleoperation. A high resistance may cause theignition system to malfunction and loss ofspark. Therefore, if any resistance acrossthe points is indicated, the point set shouldbe replaced.

2-6 SYNCHRONIZING

The timing on small OMC (Johnson andEvinr ude) outboard engines is controlledthrough adjustment of the points. If thepoints are adjusted too closely, the spark

The fuel and ignition systems on any engine MUSTbe properly synchronized before maximum performance can be obtained from the unit.

IGNITION SYSTEM 2-5

plugs will fire early; if adjusted with exces-sive gap, the plugs will fire too late, forefficient operation. Therefore, correctpoint adjustment and synchronization areessential for proper engine operation. Anengine may be in apparent excellent me-chanical condition, but perform poorly, un-less the points and synchronization havebeen adjusted precisely, according to theSpecifications in the Appendix. To synchro-nize the engine, see Chapter 5.

2-7 BATTERY SERVICE

Many owner/operators are not fullyaware of the role a battery performs with amagneto ignition system outboard engine.To clarify: With a magneto ignition system,a battery is only used to crank the enginefor starting purposes. Once the engine isrunning properly, the battery could verywell be removed without affecting engineoperation. Therefore, if the battery is com-pletely dead, the engine may be hand start-ed with a pull cord and operate efficiently.

If a battery is used for starting, inspectand service the battery, cables and connec-tions. Check for signs of corrosion. Inspectthe battery case for cracks or bulges, dirt,acid, and electrolyte leakage. Check theelectrolyte level in each cell.

Fill each cell to the proper level withdistilled water or water passed thru a de-mineralizer.

The battery MUST be located near the engine in awell-ventilated area. It must be secured in such amanner that absolutely no movement is possible in anydirection under the most violent action of the boat.

2-6 TUNING

Clean the top of the battery. The top ofa 12-volt battery should be kept especiallyclean of acid film and dirt, because of thehigh voltage between the battery terminals.For best results, first wash the battery witha diluted ammonia or baking soda solution toneutralize any acid present. Flush the so-lution off the battery with clean water.Keep the vent plugs tight to prevent theneutralizing solution or water from enteringthe cells.

Check to be sure the battery is fastenedsecurely in position. The hold-down deviceshould be tight enough to prevent any move-ment of the battery in the holder, but not sotight as to place a strain on the battery case.

If the battery posts or cable terminalsare corroded, the cables should be cleanedseparately with a baking soda solution and awire brush. Apply a thin coating of Multi-purpose Lubricant to the posts and cableclamps before making the connections. Thelubricant will help to prevent corrosion.

If the battery has remained under-charg-ed, check for high resistance in the chargingcircuit. If the battery appears to be usingtoo much water, the battery may be defec-tive, or it may be too small for the job.

A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be aregular task on the maintenance schedule on any boat.

An inexpensive brush should be purchased and usedto clean the battery terminals. Clean terminals willensure a proper connection.

Jumper CablesIf booster batteries are used for starting

an engine the jumper cables must be con-nected correctly and in the proper sequenceto prevent damage to either battery, or theal ternator diodes.

AL WAYS connect a cable from the posi-tive terminals of the dead battery to thepositive terminal of the good battery FIRST.NEXT, connect one end of the other cable to the negative terminals of the good batteryand the other end of the ENGINE for a goodground. By making the ground connectionon the engine, if there is an arc when you

Common set of jumper cables for using a secondbattery to crank and start the engine. EXTREME careshould be used when using a second battery, as explain-ed in the text.

make the connection it will not be near thebattery. An arc near the battery couldcause an explosion, destroying the batteryand causing serious personal injury.

If it is necessary to use a fast-charger ona dead battery, ALWAYS disconnect one ofthe boat cables from the battery first, toprevent burning out the diodes in the alter-nator.

NEVER use a fast charger as a booster tostart the engine because the diodes in the genera tor will be DAMAGED.

Generator ChargingNormally a generating system is not stand-

ard equipment on the smaller horsepowerengines, up to the 35 hp model. However, agenerator kit may be purchased and instal-led on the 35 hp and '+0 hp engines forbattery charging while the engine is operat-ing. A generator system is standard equip-ment on the '+0 hp electric shift model.

When the battery is partially discharged,the ammeter should change from dischargeto charge between 1500 to 1800 rpm for allmodels. If the battery is fully-charged, therpm will be a little higher.

With the engine running, in gear, in thewater, increase the throttle until the rpm isapproximately 5200 rpm. The ammeterreading should meet the Alternator Specifi-cations in the Appendix. With a fully-charged battery the ammeter reading willbe a bit lower because of the self-regulatingcharacteristics of the generating systems.

A 40 hp engine with a starter installed on thestarbaord side and a generator on the port side. Thegenerator, in kit form, is available from the local OMCdealer.

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT 2-7

Pressure-type fuel tank used on many outboardinstallations until the late 1950's. The text explainshow to update such a system with a fuel pump andmodern fuel tank.

Before disconnecting the ammeter, removethe red harness lead connected to the posi-tive battery terminal. For generatingservice, see Chapter 6.

2-8 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

Fuel and Fuel TanksTake time to check the fuel tank and all

of the fuel lines, fittings, couplings, valves,flexible tank fill and vent. Turn on the fuelsupply valve at the tank, if the engine isequipped with a self-contained fuel tank. Ifthe gas was not drained at the end of theprevious season, make a careful inspectionfor gum formation. When gasoline is al-lowed to stand for long periods of time,particularly in the presence of copper, gum-my deposits form. This gum can clog the

An ideal OMC fuel tank and fuel line arrangement.The tank is well secured and clean. The quick-discon-nect device affords easy removal of the tank for fiZZing.

2-8 TUNING

filters, lines, and passageway in the carbu-retor.

If the condition of the fuel is in doubt,drain, clean, and fill the tank with fresh fuel.

Fuel pressure at the carburetor should bechecked whenever a lack of fuel volume atthe carburetor is suspected.

High-speed AdjustmentThe high-speed needle valve is adjustable

on most models covered in this manualthrough 1965. After 1965, the high-speedneedle valve is fixed at the factory and is NOT adjustable. However, larger or smallerneedle valves may be installed for differentelevations. On all Johnson/Evinrude en-gines, the high-speed needle valve is thelower valve on the carburetor. The upperneedle is always the idle adjustment.

A beginning "rough" adjustment for thehigh-speed needle valve is 3/'+ turn out(counterclockwise) from the lightly seated(closed) position. TAKE CARE not to seatthe valve firmly to prevent damage to thevalve or the carburetor.

To make the high-speed adjustment: a- Mount the engine in a test tank or

body of water, preferably with a test wheel.Engines up to '+0 hp may be operated in thehigh rpm range in a test tank without sus-taining damage.

NEVER, AGAIN NEVER, operate the en-gine at high speed with a flush device at-tached. The engine, operating at high speedwith such a device attached, would RUN-A-WAY from lack of a load on the propeller,causing extensive damage.

D- Connect a tachometer to the engine.

A 35 hp unit showing location of the idle and high-speed adjustments. Notice the pressure-type fuel con-nector.

CAUTION: Water must circulate throughthe lower unit to the engine any time the en-gine is run to prevent damage to the waterpump in the lower unit. Just five secondswithout water will damage the water pump.

c- Start the engine and allow it to warmto operating temperature.

d- Shift the engine into forward gear.e- With the engine running in forward

gear, advance the throttle to the wide openposition, and then very SLOWLY turn thehigh-speed needle valve inward (CLOCK-WISE) until the engine begins to loose rpm.Now, SLOWLY rotate the needle valve out-ward (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) until the en-gine peaks out at the highest rpm.

If the high-speed needle valve adjust-ment is too lean, the low-speed adjustmentwill be affected. Under certain conditionsit may be necessary to adjust the high-speedneedle valve just a bit richer in order to obtain a satisfactory idle adjustment.

After the high-speed needle adjustmenthas been obtained, proceed with the idle ad-justment as outlined in the next paragraphs.

Idle AdjustmentDue to local conditions, it may be neces-

sary to adjust the carburetor while the en-gine is running in a test tank or with theboat in a body of water. For maximumperformance, the idle mixture and the idlerpm should be adjusted under actual operat-ing conditions.

Set the idle mixture screw at the speci-fied number of turns open from a lightlyseated position. In most cases this is from Ito 1Y2 turns open from close.

Small horsepower engine mounted in a test tankwith the low- and high-speed adjustments indicated.

Start the engine and allow it to warm tooperating temperature.

CAUTION: Water must circulate throughthe lower unit to the engine any time the en-gine is run to prevent damage to the waterpump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

NEVER, AGAIN NEVER, operate the en-gine at high speed with a flush device at-tached. The engine, operating at high speedwith such a device attached, would RUN-A-WAY from lack of a load on the propeller,causing extensive damage.

With t he engine running in forward gear,slow ly turn the idle mixture screw COUN-TERCLOCKWISE until the affected cylin-ders start to load up or fire unevenly, due toan over-rich mixture. Slowly turn the idlemixture screw CLOCKWISE until the cylin-ders fire evenly and engine rpm increases.Continue to slowly turn the screw CLOCK-WISE until too lean a mixture is obtainedand the rpms fall off and the engine beginsto misfire. Now, set the idle mixture screwone-quarter 0/4) turn out <Counterclock-wise) from the lean-out position. This ad-justment will result in an approximate truesetting. A too-lean setting is a major causeof hard starting a cold engine. It is betterto have the adjustment on the rich siderather than on the lean side. Stating itanother way, do not make the adjustment

A 3.0 hp engine with the low- and high-speed adjust-m ents clearly visible.

FUEL PUMP 2-9

an y leaner than necessary to obtain a smoothidle.

If the engine hesitates during accelerationafter adjusting the idle mixture, the mixture istoo lean. Enrich the mixture slightly, by turn-ing the adjustment screw outward until the engine accelerates correctly.

With the engine running in forward gear,rotate the nylon idle adjustment screw, locatedon the portside of the powerhead until thepowerhead idles at the recommended rpm.This idle adjustment screw is always exposed onthe outside of the shroud.

Repairs and AdjustmentsFor detailed procedures to disassemble,

clean, assemble, and adjust the carburetor,see the appropriate section in Chapter 4 forthe carburetor type on the engine beingserviced.

2-9 FUEL PUMPS

Many times a defective fuel pump dia-phragm is mistakenly diagnosed as a prob-lem in the ignition system. The most com-mon problem is a tiny pin-hole in the dia-phragm. Such a small hole will permit gas

A larger hp engine with the idle return stop screwindicated. This stop screw is adjustable and preventsthe throttle from returning so far as to shut down theengine.

2-10 TUNING

Two of the many types of fuel purr IS installed onOMC outboard engines. These fuel pu IpS cannot berebuilt, as explained in the text.

to enter the crankcase and w t foul thespark plug at idle-speed. Durin high-speedoperation, gas quantity is Emit d, the plugis not foul and will therefor fire in asatisfactory manner.

If the fuel pump falls to per orm proper-ly, an insufficient fuel supply will be de-livered to the carburetor. This lack of fuelwill cause the engine to run If .an, lose rpmor cause piston scoring.

When a fuel pressure gauge is added tothe system, it should be installed at the endof the fuel Iine leading to the upper carbu-retor. To ensure maximum performance,the fuel pressure must be 2 psi or more atfull throttle.

This fuel pump is the only OMC pump that can berebuilt. Replacement parts are available from the localOMC dealer.

Tune-up TaskMost fuel pumps are equipped with a fuel

filter. The filter may be cleaned by firstremoving the cap, then the filter element,cleaning the parts and drying them withcompressed air, and finally installing themin their original position.

A fuel pump pressure test should bemade any time the engine falls to performsatisfactorily at high speed.

NEVER use liquid Neoprene on fuel linefittings. Always use Permatex when makingfuel line connections. Permatex is availableat almost all marine and hardware stores.

Only one Johnson/Evinrude fuel pumpmay be rebuilt, see accompanying illustra-tion. All others pumps must be replace as aunit. For fuel pump service, see Chapter 4.

2-10 STARTER AND SOLENOID

Starter Motor TestCheck to be sure the battery has a 70-

ampere rating and is fully charged. Wouldyou believe, many starter motors are need-lessly disassembled, when the battery isactually the culprit.

Lubricate the pinion gear and screwshaft with No. 10 oil.

Connect one lead of a voltmeter to theposi t ive terminal of the starter motor.

Commercial additives, such as Sui-btl, may be usedto keep the gasoline in the fuel tank fresh. Underfavorable conditions, such additives will prevent thefuelfrom "souring" for up to twelve months.

-.•. -.•.

Functional diagram of a typical cranking circuit.

Connect the other meter lead to a goodground on the engine. Check the batteryvoltage under load by turning the ignitionswitch to the START position and observingthe voltmeter reading.

If the reading is 9-1/2 volts or greater,and the starter motor fails to operate, re-pair or replace the starter motor. SeeChapter 6.

Solenoid TestAn ohmmeter is the only instrument re-

quired to effectively test a solenoid. Testthe ohmmeter by connecting the red andblack leads together. Adjust the pointer tothe right side of the scale.

On all Johnson/Evinrude engines" the caseof the solenoid does NOT provide a suitable ground to the engine. Hundreds of solenoidshave been discarded because of the errone-ous belief the case is providing a ground andthe unit should function when 12-volts isapplied. Not so! One terminal of thesolenoid is connected to a 12-volt source.The other terminal is connected via a white

Typical Johnson/Evinrude starter motor installed.

INTERNAL WIRING 2-11

wire to a cutout switch on top of the engine.This cutout switch provides a safety tobreak the ground to the solenoid in theevent the engine starts at a high rpm.Therefore, the solenoid ground is made andbroken by the cutout switch.

NEVER connect the battery leads to thelarge terminals of the solenoid, or the testmeter will be damaged. Connect each leadof the test meter to each of the largeterminals on the solenoid.

Using battery jumper leads, connect thepositive lead from the positive terminal ofthe battery to the the small "S" terminal ofthe solenoid. Connect the negative lead tothe negative battery terminal and the "I"terminal of the solenoid. If the meterpointer hand moves into the OK block, thesolenoid is serviceable. If the pointer failsto reach the OK block, the solenoid must bereplaced.

2-11 INTERNAL WIRING HARNESS

An internal wiring harness is only usedon the larger horsepower engines covered inthis manual. If the engine is equipped with a wiring harness, the following checks andtest will apply.

Check the internal wiring harness ifproblems have been encountered with any of

Proper hook-up of a voltmeter in preparation totesting a starter solenoid.

2-12 TUNING

the electrical components. Check for fray-ed or chafed insulation and/or loose connec-tions between wires and terminal connec-tions.

Check the harness connector for signs ofcorrosion. Inspect the electrical "prongs" tobe sure they are not bent or broken. If theharness shows any evidence of the foregoingproblems, the problem must be correctedbefore proceeding with any harness testing.

Verify that the "prongs" of the harnessconnector are clean and free of corrosion.Convince yourself that a good electricalconnection is being made between the har-ness connector and the remote control har-ness.

Short Test (See the Wiring Diagram in theAppendix)

Disconnect the internal wiring harnessfrom the electrical components. Use amagneto analyzer, set on Scale No.3 andcheck for continuity between any of thewires in the harness. Use Scale No.3 andcheck for continuity between any wire and agood ground. If continuity exists, the har-ness MUST be repaired or replaced.

The terminals of a side-mounted electrical connec-tor should be inspected and cleaned each season. Thisconnector is exposed and vulnerable to dampness andcorrosion.

Resistance Test (See the Wiring Diagram inthe Appendix.)

Use a magneto analyzer, set on ScaleNo.2. Clip the small red and black leadstogether. Turn the meter adjustment knobfor Scale No.2 until the meter pointer a-ligns with the set position on the left side ofthe "OK" block on Scale No.2. Separate thesmall red and black leads. Use the WiringDiagram in the Appendix, and check eachwire for resistance between the harnessconnection and the terminal ends. If resis-tance exists (meter reading outside the"OK" block) the harness MUST be repairedor replaced.

2-12 WATER PUMP CHECK

FIRST A GOOD WORD: The waterpump MUST be in very good condition forthe engine to deliver satisfactory service.The pump performs an extremely importantfunction by supplying enough water to prop-erly cool the engine. Therefore, in mostcases, it is advisable to replace the com-plete water pump assembly at least once ayear, or anytime the lower unit is disassem-bled for service.

Small horsepower engine operating in a test tank tocheck water circulation through the engine and dis-charge from the idle relief.

Using a flush attachment with a garden hose hook-up to clean the engine water circulation system withfresh water. This arrangement may also be used whileoperating the engine at idle speeds to make adjust-ments.

Sometimes during adjustment proce-dures, it is necessary to run the engine witha flush device attached to the lower unit.NEVER operate the engine over 1000 rpmwith a flush device attached, because theengine may "RUN-A-WA Y" due to the no-load condition on the propeller. A "run-a-way" engine could be severely damaged. Asthe name implies, the flush device is pri-marily used to flush the engine after use insalt water or contaminated fresh water.Regular use of the flush device will preventsalt or silt deposits from accumulating inthe water passageway. During and immedi-ately after flushing, keep the motor in anupright position until all of the water hasdrained from the drive shaft housing. This will prevent water from entering the powerhead by way of the drive shaft housing and the exhaust ports, during the flush. It willalso prevent residual water from being trap-ped in the drive shaft housing and otherpassageways.

To test the water pump, the lower unitMUST be placed in a test tank or the boatmoved into a body of water. The pump mustnow work to supply a volume to the engine.

Small horsepower engine showing debris, includingfish line, wrapped around the propeller Shaft. Entangl-ed fish line can cut through the oil seal behind thepropeller causing loss of lubricant from the lower unit.

PROPELLER 2-13

Water pump installed on a small horsepower lowerunit.

Lack of adequate water supply from thewater pump thru the engine will cause anynumber of power head failures, such asstuck rings, scored cylinder walls, burnedpistons, etc.

2-13 PROPELLER

Check the propeller blades for nicks,cracks, or bent condition. If the propeller isdamaged, the local mar ine dealer can makerepairs or send it out to a shop specializingin such work.


2-14 TUNING

ENTANGLEDF SH LINE

Considerable amount of fish line entangled aroundthe propeller shaft. Some of the fish line actuallymelted, giving it the appearance of a washer.

Remove the cotter key, propeller nut,shear pin, and the propeller from the shaft.Check the propeller shaft seal to be sure itis not leaking. Check the area just forwardof the seal to be sure a fish line is notwrapped around the shaft.

Operation At Recommended RPMCheck with the local OMC dealer, or a

propeller shop for the recommended sizeand pitch for a particular size engine, boat,

Ski rope entangled around the propeller shaft. Someof the rope has actually melted and fused together. Inthis case, the rope cut through the lower unit oil seal,allowing lubricant to escape.

and intended operation. The correct propel-ler should be installed on the engine toenable operation at recommended rpm.

Two rpm ranges are usually given. Thelower rpm is recommended for large, heavyslow boats, or for commercial applications.The higher rpm is recommended for light,fast boats. The wide rpm range will resultin greater satisfaction because of maximumperformance and greater fuel economy. Ifthe engine speed is above the recommendedrpm, try a higher pitch propeller or thesame pitch cupped. See Chapter 1 forexplanation of propeller terms, pitch, diam-eter, cupped, etc.

For a dual engine installation, the nexthigher pitch propeller may prove the mostsatisfactory condition for water skiing.

2-14 LOWER UNIT

NEVER remove the vent or filler plugswhen the lower unit is hot. Expanded lubri-cant would be released through the plughole. Check the lubricant level after theunit has been allowed to cool. Add onlyOMC approved gear lubricant. NEVER useregular automotive-type grease in the lowerunit, because it expands and foams too

New propeller ready for installation. On the smallerhorsepower engines, a damaged propeller can causeexcessive vibration, resulting in failure of more expen- ~sive parts. The modest cost of a new propeller istherefore justified. Rebuilding a small propeller is noteconomical when balanced against the minor differenceof purchasing a new unit.

much. Outboard lower units do not haveprovisions to accommodate such expansion.

If the lubricant appears milky brown,indicating the presence of water, a checkshould be made to determine how the waterentered. If large amounts of lubricant mustbe added to bring the lubricant up to the fullmark, a thorough inspection should be madeto find the cause of the lubricant loss.

Draining Lower UnitThe fill/drain plug on Johnson/Evinrude

lower units may be located towards thebottom of the unit on the port side, star-board side, or on the leading edge of thelower unit. On many models a Phillipsscrew will be found very close to the fill/drain plug. NEVER remove this Phillipsscrew because the lower unit would thenhave to be disassembled in order to returnthe cradle for the shift dog back in place.

Remove the drain plug and then removethe vent plug located just above the anti-cavitation plate.

Filling Lower UnitPosition the drive unit approximately

vertical and without a list to either port orstarboard. Insert the lubricant tube into theFILL/DRAIN hole at the bottom plug hole,

DRAIN INGGEAR Oil

The gear oil in the lower unit should be checked on adaily basis during the season of operation. The oilshould be drained and replenished with new oil every100 hours of operation.

BOAT TESTING 2-15

and inject lubricant until the excess beginsto come out the VENT hole. Install theVENT plug first then replace the FILL plugwith NEW gaskets. Check to be sure thegaskets are properly positioned to preventwater from entering the housing. Manytimes some of the gear lubricant is lostduring installation of the plugs. Therefore,if the vent plug is removed again, and morelubricant added very SLOWLY using a small-spout oil can to allow air to pass out theopening, there is no doubt but what the unitwill be filled to capacity.

For detailed lower unit service proce-dures, see Chapter 8. For lower unitlubr ication capacities, see the Appendix.

Repairs and AdjustmentsFor detailed procedures to disassemble,

clean, assemble, and adjust the carburetor,see the appropriate section in Chapter 4 forthe carburetor type on the engine beingserviced.

2-15 BOAT TESTING

Hook and RockerBefore testing the boat, check the boat

Filling the lower unit with new gear oil. Notice theunit is filled through the lower plug, but the upper plugMUST be removed to allow trapped air to escape.

2-16 TUNING

bottom carefully for marine growth or evi-dence of a "hook" or a "rocker" in thebottom. Either one of these conditions willgreatly reduce performance.

PerformanceMount the motor on the boat. Install the

remote control cables and check for properadjustment.

Make an effort to test the boat withwhat might be considered an average grossload. The boat should ride on an even keel,without a list to port or starboard. Adjustthe motor tilt angle, if necessary, to permitthe boat to ride slightly higher than thestern. If heavy supplies are stowed aft of

Boat performance will be drastically hampered, ifthe bottom is damaged.

the center, the bow will be light and theboat will "plane" more efficiently. For thistest the boat must be operated in a body ofwater.

Check the engine rpm at full throttle.The rpm should be within the Specificationsin the Appendix. All OMC engine modelser ial number identification plates indicatethe horsepower rating and rpm range for theengine. If the rpm is not within specifiedrange, a propeller change may be in order.A higher pitch propeller will decrease rpm,and a lower pitch propeller will increaserpm.

For maximum low speed engine perform-ance, the idle mixture and the idle rpmshould be readjusted under actual operatingconditions.

Maximum engine performance can only be obtainedthrough proper tuning using a tachometer.

3POWERHEAD

3-1 INTRODUCTION

The carburetion and ignition principlesof two-cycle engine operation MUST be un-derstood in order to perform a proper tune-up on an outboard motor. Therefore, itwould be well worth the time to study theprinciples of two-cycle engines as outlined in this section.

A Polaroid, or equivalent instant-typecamera, is an extremely useful item provid-ing the means of accurately recording thearrangement of parts and wire connectionsBEFORE the disassembly work begins. Sucha record is most valuable during the assemb-ly work.

Tags are handy to identify wires afterthey are disconnected to ensure they will be connected to the same terminal from whichthey were removed. These tags may also beused for parts where marks or other meansof identification are not possible.

THEORY OF OPERA nON

The two-cycle engine differs in severalways from a conventional four-cycle (auto-mobile) engine.

1- The method by which the fuel-airmixture is delivered to the combustionchamber. 2- The complete lubrication system. 3- In most cases, the ignition system. 4- The frequency of the power stroke.

These differences will be discussed brieflyand compared with four-cycle engine opera-tion.

Intake/ExhaustTwo-cycle engines utilize an arrange-

ment of port openings to admit fuel to thecombustion chamber and to purge the ex-haust gases after burning has been com-pleted. The ports are located in a precise

pattern in order for them to be open andclosed off at an exact moment by the pistonas it moves up and down in the cylinder.The exhaust port is located slightly higherthan the fuel intake port. This arrangementopens the exhaust port first, as the pistonstarts downward, and therefore, the exhaust phase begins a fraction of a second beforethe intake phase.

Actually, the intake and exhaust portsare spaced so closely together that bothopen almost simultaneously. For this rea-son, the pistons of most two-cycle engineshave a deflector-type top. This design ofthe piston top serves two purposes very effectively.

DEFLECTOR EXHAUSTPORT

EXHAUST

Drawing to depict the intake and exhaust cycles of atwo-cycle engine.

3-2 POWERHEAD

First, it creates turbulence when theincoming charge of fuel enters the combus-tion chamber. This turbulence results inmore complete burning of the fuel than ifthe piston top were flat. The second effectof the deflector-type piston crown is toforce the exhaust gases from the cylindermore rapidly.

This system of intake and exhaust is inmarked contrast to individual valve arrange-ment employed on four-cycle engines.

LubricationA two-cycle engine is lubricated by mix-

ing oil with the fuel. Therefore, variousparts are lubricated as the fuel mixturepasses through the crankcase and the cylin-der. Four-cycle engines have a crankcasecontaining oil. This oil is pumped through acirculating system and returned to thecrankcase to begin the routing again.

Power StrokeThe combustion cycle of a two-cycle

engine has four distinct phases.1- Intake 2- Compression 3- Power 4- Exhaust Three phases of the cycle are accom-

plished with each stroke of the piston, andthe fourth phase, the power stroke occurs

••

\ATMOSPHERIC AIR PRESSURE

Air flow principle for a modern carburetor.

with each revolution of the crankshaft.Compare this system with a four-cycle en-gine. A stroke of the piston is required to accomplish each phase of the cycle and thepower stroke occurs on every other revolu-tion of the crankshaft. Stated another way,two revolutions of the four-cycle enginecrankshaft are required to complete one fullcycle, the four phases.

Physical LawsThe two-cycle engine is able to function

because of two very simple physical laws.One: Gases will flow from an area of

high pressure to an area of lower pressure.A tire blowout is an example of this princi-ple. The high-pressure air escapes rapidly ifthe tube is punctured.

Two: If a gas is compressed into a smal-ler area, the pressure increases, and if a gasexpands into a larger area, the pressure is decreased.

If these two laws are kept in mind, theoperation of the two-cycle engine will beeasier understood.

Actual OperationBeginning with the piston approaching

top dead center on the compression stroke:The intake and exhaust ports are closed bythe piston; the reed valve is open; the sparkplug fires; the compressed fuel-air mixture

Adding OMC approved oil into the [uel tank.

is ignited; and the power stroke begins. Thereed valve was open because as the pistonmoved upward, the crankcase volume increased,which reduced the crankcase pressure to lessthan the outside atmosphere.

As the piston moves downward on thepower stroke, the combustion chamber is filledwith burning gases. As the exhaust port isuncovered, the gases, which are under greatpressure, escape rapidly through the exhaustports. The piston continues its downwardmovement. Pressure within the crankcaseincreases, closing the reed valves against their seats.The crankcase then becomes a sealed chamber.The-fuel mixture is compressed ready fordelivery the combustion chamber. As the piston continues to move downward the intake port isuncovered. Fresh fuel rushes through theintake port into the combustion chamber strik-ing the top of the piston where it is deflectedalong the cylinder wall. The valve remainsclosed until the piston moves upward again.

When the piston begins to move upward onthe compression stroke, the reed valve opensbecause the crankcase volume has beenincreased, reducing crankcase pressure to lessthan the outside atmosphere. The int.ake andexhaust ports are closed and the fresh fuelcharge is compressed inside the combustionchamber.DEFLECTOR

INTAKE COMPRESS ION

INTRODUCTION 3-3

Pressure in the crankcase decreases as thepiston moves upward and a fresh charge of airflows through the carburetor picking up fuel. As the piston approaches top dead center, thespark plug ignites the air-fuel mixture, thepower stroke begins and one complete cycle iscompleted.

Cross Fuel Flow PrincipleOMC pistons are a deflector dome type.

The design is necessary to deflect the fuelcharge up and around the combustion chamber.The fresh fuel mixture enters the combustionchamber through the intake ports and flowsacross the top of the piston. The piston designcontributes to clearing the combustion chamber,because the incoming fuel pushes the burnedgases out the exhaust ports.

Loop ScavengingSome powerheads have what is commonly

known as a loop scavenging system. The pistondome is relatively flat on top with just a smallamount of crown. Pressurized fuel in thecrankcase is forced up through the skirt of thepiston and out through irregular shaped open-ings cut in the skirt. Mer the fuel is forced outthe piston skirt openings it is transferred up-ward through long deep grooves molded in thecylinder walls. The fuel then enters the com-

\\

II

IGNITION POWER STROKE EXHAUSTComplete piston cycle of a two-cycle engine, depicting intake, power, and exhaust.

3-4 POWERHEAD

bustion portion of the cylinder and is com-pressed, as the piston moves upward.

This particular powerhead does not haveintake cover plates, because the intake passageis molded into the cylinder wall as described inthe previous paragraph. Therefore, if thesepowerheads and being serviced, disregard thesections covering intake cover plates.

3-2 CHAPTER ORGANIZATION

This chapter is divided into 14 mainservice sections. Each section covers aparticular area of service and outlines com-plete instructions for the work to be per-formed. Because of the many countlessnumber of outboard units in the field, itwould be impractical and almost impossibleto give detailed procedures for removal andinstallation of each bolt, carburetor, start-er, and other "buildup" type units.

Therefore, the sections, for the particu-lar powerhead work to be performed, beginwith the preliminary access tasks complet-ed. As an example, disassembly of thepowerhead begins with the necessary hood,cowling, and accessories removed.

Armature plate prior to powerhead disassembling.

The information is presented in a logicalsequence for complete power head overhaul.The instructions can be followed generallyfor almost any size horsepower engine. Inrare cases, where the procedures differ de-pending on the model being serviced, separ-ate steps are included. One example is thethree different type of crankshaft installa-tions.

The illustrations accompanying the textare from different size units and the cap-tions clearly identify which model is cover-ed.

Exploded drawings, showing principleparts, for the various size power heads areincluded at the end of the chapter.

Special tools may be called out in cer-tain instances. These tools may be purchas-ed from the local Johnson/Evinrude dealeror directly from Customer Services Depart-ment, Outboard Marine Corporation (OMC),Waukegan, Illinois, 60085.

The chapter ends with Break-in Proce-dures, Section 3-16, to be performed afterthe powerhead has been assembled, all ac-cessories installed, and the powerheadmounted on the exhaust housing.

Tor-que ValuesAll torque values must be met when they

are specified. Many of the outboard cast-ings and other parts are made of aluminum.The torque values are given to preventstretching the bolts, but more importantlyto protect the threads in the aluminum. Itis extremely important to tighten the con-necting rods to the proper torque value toensure proper service. The head bolts areprobably the next most important torquevalue.

Power-head ComponentsService procedures for the carburetors,

fuel pumps, starter, and other powerheadcomponents are given in their respectivechapters of this manual. See the Table ofContents.

Reed InstallationAll reeds on Johnson/Evinrude engines

covered in this manual are installed justbehind the carburetor behind the intakemanifold.

CleanlinessMake a determined effort to keep parts

and the work area as clean as possible.

Parts MUST be cleaned and thoroughly in-spected before they are assembled, install-ed, or adjusted. Use proper lubricants, ortheir equivalent, whenever they are recom-mended.

Keep rods and rod caps together as a setto ensure they will be installed as a pair andin the proper sequence.

Needle bearings MUST remain as a com-plete set. NEVER mix needles from one setwith another. If only one needle is damag-ed, the complete set MUST be replaced.

3-3 POWERHEAD DISASSEMBLINGPreliminary Work

Before the powerhead can be disassembl-ed, the battery must be disconnected; fuellines disconnected; and the carburetor, gen-erator, starter, flywheel, and magneto, allremoved. If in doubt as to how these itemsare to be removed, refer to the appropriatechapter.

After the accessories have been remov-ed, remove the bolts in the front and rear ofthe power head securing the powerhead tothe exhaust housing. Lift the power headfree.

BAD NEWSIf the unit is several years old, or if it

has been operated in salt water, or has nothad proper maintenance, or shelter, or anynumber of other factors, then separating thepowerhead from the exhaust housing maynot be a simple task. An air hammer maybe required on the studs to shake the corro-sion loose; heat may have to be applied to

Removing the head from the cylinder block.

DISASSEMBLING 3-5

Cylinder block water passages corroded preventingproper circulation of coolant water.

the casting to expand it slightly; or otherdevices employed in order to remove thepowerhead. One very serious conditionwould be the driveshaft "frozen" with thecrankshaft. In this case, a circular plug-type hole must be drilled and a torch used tocut the driveshaft. Let's assume the power-head will come free on the first attempt.

The following procedures pickup thework after these preliminary tasks havebeen completed.

3-4 HEAD SERVICE

Usually the head is removed and an ex-amination of the cylinders made to deter-mine the extent of overhaul required. How-ever, if the head has not been removed,back out all of the head bolts and lift thehead free of the powerhead,

A compression release chamber being removed fromthe head on an early model 35 hp engine.

3-6 POWERHEAO

Many, but not all, heads have a thermo-stat installed. In addition to the thermo-stat, the engine may have a thermostatbypass valve. These two items are easilyremoved, inspected and cleaned.

Normally, if a thermostat is not func-tioning properly, it is almost always stuck inthe open position. An engine operating attoo low a temperature is almost as much aproblem as an engine running too hot.

Therefore, during a major overhaul, goodshop practice dictates to replace the therm-ostat and eliminate this area as a possibleproblem at a later date.

Lay a piece of fine sandpaper or emorypaper on a flat surface (such as a piece ofglass) with the abrasive side facing up. Withthe machined face of the head on thesandpaper, move the head in a circular mo-tion to dress the surface. This procedurewill also indicate any "high" or "low" spots.

Check the spark plug opening/s to besure the threads are not damaged. Mostmarine dealers can insert a heli-co il into aspark plug opening if the threads have beendamaged.

On many engines, a sending unit is in-stalled in the head to warn the operator if

Removing the thermostat from the head.

the engine begins to run too hot. The lighton the dash can be checked by turning theignition switch to the ON position, and thenground the wire to the sending unit. Thelight should come on. If it does not, replacethe bulb and repeat the test.

3-5 REED SERVICE

DESCRIPTION

All two-cycle engines have individual ig-nition and fuel delivery for each cylinder.This means the cylinder is operating inde-pendently of the others. The cylinder con-sists of a top seal, the cylinder, the center seal, and the lower seal. This means eachcylinder is completely sealed offfrom theothers.

Therefore, with a two-cylinder power-head, two sets of reeds are installed, one foreach cylinder. These reeds may be installedon a reed plate or with a reed box, depend-ing on the model engine. One carburetorprovides fuel to both sets of reeds.

The reed arrangement operates in muchthe same manner as the reed in a saxophone

Operating an engine without the thermostat andthermostat cover installed to check the coolant water[low,

or other wind instrument. At rest, the reedis closed and seals the opening to which it isattached. In the case of an outboard engine,this opening is between the crankcase andthe carburetor. The reeds are mounted inthe intake manifold, just behind the carbu-retor.

Actual OperationThe piston creates vacuum and pressure

as it moves up and down in the cylinder. Asthe piston moves upward, a vacuum is creat-ed in the crankcase pulling the reed open.On the compression stroke, when the pistonmoves downward, the reed is forced closed.

Reed DesignsA wide range of reeds, reed plates, and

reed box installations may be found on anoutboard unit, due to the varying, designs ofthe engines. All installations employ thesame principle and there is no difference intheir operation.

Broken ReedA broken reed is usually caused by metal

fatigue over a long period of time. Thefailure may also be due to the reed flexingtoo far because the reed stop has not beenadjusted properly or the stop has becomedistorted. If the reed is broken, the loosepiece MUST be located and removed, beforethe engine is returned to service. The pieceof reed may have found its way into thecrankcase, behind the bypass cover. If the

2 CYCLEINTAKE PORT

ABOUT TOOPEN

FUEL INCRANKCASE

PRESSUREIN CRANKCASE

REED VALVECLOSED

EXHAUSTDiagram to illustrate operation of a two-cycle out-

board engine.

REED SERVICE 3-7

BROKENREED

VALVE

Cross-section of a cylinder to illustrate a brokenreed in the crankcase.

broken piece cannot be located, the power-head must be completely disassembled untilit is located and removed.

The accompanying illustration depictshow a broken reed will cause a backflowthrough the carburetor.

An excellent check for a broken reed onan operating engine is to hold an ordinarybusiness card in front of the carburetor.Under normal operating conditions, a verysmall amount of fine mist will be notice-able, but if fuel begins to appear rapidly onthe card from the carburetor, one of thereeds is broken and causing the back flowthrough the carburetor and onto the card.

A broken reed will cause the engine tooperate roughly and with a "pop" backthrough the carburetor.

Reed box with a broken reed.

3-8 POWERHEAD

Reed stops centered over the reeds.

Reed StopsIf the reed stops have become distorted,

the most effective corrective action is toreplace the stop instead of making an at-tempt at adjustment.

Reed to Base Plate CheckThe specified clearance of the reed from

the base plate, when the reed is at rest, is0.010" (0.254- rnrn) at the tip of the reed.

An al tern ate method of the checking thereed clearance is to hold the reed up t;; thesunlight and look through the back side.Some air space should be visible, but not agreat amount. If in doubt, check the reed atthe tip with a feeler gauge. The maximumclearance should not exceed 0.010" (0.254mrn),

Using a feeler gauge to measure the clearancebetween the reed tip and the reed plate.

Close view showing the dimple on the reed plate.The reed leaves must straddle the dimple and becentered over the openings for proper operation.

The reeds must NEVER be turned over inan attempt to correct a problem. Suchaction would cause the reed to flex in theopposite direction and the reed would breakin a very short time.

REED VALVE ADJUSTMENTIn many instances, the reed is placed on

the reed plate in such a manner to cover theopenings in the plate. As shown in theaccompanying illustration, a small indent ismanufactured into the face of the plate.The leaves of the reed should be centered onthis identation for proper operation. If thereed is being replaced, both reeds AND thereed stops should be replaced as a set.

V-Type Reed BoxesAs the name implies, these reed boxes

are shaped in a "V" with a set of reeds and

V-type reed box installed on the 9.5 hp engines.

Front view of the reed box showing the Phillipsscrews that must be removed before the box can beremoved from the plate.

stops on both arms of the "V". If a problemdevelops with this type reed box, it isstrongly recommended that the completeassembly be replaced -- reeds, box, andstops. The assembly may be purchased as acomplete unit and the cost will usually notexceed the time, effort, and problems en-countered in an attempt to replace only onepart.

CLEANING AND SERVICE

Always handle the reeds with the utmostcare. Rough treatment will result in thereeds becoming distorted and will affecttheir performance.,

Wash the reeds in solvent, and blow themdry with compressed air from the BACK,SIDE ONLY. Do not blow air through the

Front view of a reed plate with check valves. Thisarrangement is only used with a pressure fuel tank.

REED SERVICE 3-9

Back side of the same plate shown at the bottom ofthe previous column. Notice how the reed stops arecentered over the reeds.

reed from the front side. Such action wouldcause the reed to open and fly up againstthe reed stop. Wipe the front of the reeddry with a lint free cloth.

Clean the base plate thoroughly by re-moving any old gasket material.

Secure the reed blocks together withscrews and nuts tightened to the torquevalue given in the Appendix.

Check for chipped or broken reeds. Ob-serve that the reeds are not preloaded orstanding open. Satisfactory reeds will notadhere to the reed block surface, but stillthere is not more than 0.010" (0.254- mrn)clearance between the reed and the blocksurface.

00 NOT remove the reeds, unless theyare to be replaced. AL WAYS replace reedsin sets. NEVER turn used reeds over to beused a second time.

Reed stop installation with flat bars acting as thereed stop. The bars are the same width as the reed.

3-10 POWERHEAO

Check the reed location over the reedblock, or plate openings to be sure the reedis centered.

The reed assemblies are then ready forinstallation.

Small EnginesDisassemble the reed block by first re-

moving the screws securing the reed stopsand reeds to the reed block, and then liftingthe reed stops and reeds from the block.

Clean the gasket surfaces of the reedblock or plate. Check the surfaces for deepgrooves, cracks, or any distortion that couldcause leakage. Replace the reed block orplate if it is damaged.

After new reeds have been installed, andthe reed stop and attaching screws havebeen tightened to the required torque value,check the new reeds as outlined in thefollowing paragraphs.

Check to be sure the reeds are notpreloaded. They should not adhere to theblock or plate, and still the clearance be-tween the reed and the block surface, shouldnot be more than 0.010" (0.254 mrn). DONOT remove the reeds, unless they are to bereplaced. AL WAYS replace reeds in sets.NEVER turn used reeds over to be used asecond time.

Lay the reeds on a flat surface andmeasure all the reed stops. If there is agreat difference between the stops, the en-tire reed stop assembly should be replaced.Any attempt to bend and get all the stopsequal and level would be almost impossible.

Close view showing the dimple on the reed plate.The reed leaves must straddle the dimple and becentered over the openings for proper operation.

Using a feeler gauge to measure the clearancebetween the reed tip and the reed plate.

INSTALLATION

Procedures to install the reeds to thepower head will be found in Section 3-15,Cylinder Block Service, under Reed BoxInstallation.

3-6 BYPASS COVERS

On some small horsepower engines thepowerhead does not contain bypass covers. The bypass covers the area the fuel travelsfrom the crankcase up the side of thepowerhead and into the cylinder.

Seldom does a bypass cover cause anyproblem. On some model engines, a fuelpump may be attached to one of the bypasscovers.

Removing the intake cover from a typical power-head.

During a normal overhaul, the bypasscovers should be removed, cleaned, and newgaskets installed. Identify the covers toensure installation in the same locationfrom which they are removed.

INSTALLATION

Procedures to install the bypass coversto the powerhead will be found in Section 3-15, Cylinder Block Service, under BypassCover and Exhaust Cover Installation.

3-7 EXHAUST COVER

The exhaust covers are one of the mostneglected items on any outboard engine.Seldom are they checked and serviced.Many times an engine may be overhauledand returned to service without the exhaustcovers ever having been removed.

One reason the exhaust covers are notremoved is because the attaching bolts us-ually become corroded in place. This meansthey are very defficult to remove, but thework should be done. Heat applied to thebolt head and around the exhaust cover willhelp in removal. However, some bolts maystill be broken. If the bolt is broken it mustbe drilled out and the hole tapped with newthreads.

The exhaust covers are installed over theexhaust ports to allow the exhaust to leave

Removing the exhaust cover from the powerhead.

BYPASS COVERS 3-11

the powerhead and be transferred to theexhaust housing. If the cover was the onlyitem over the exhaust ports, they wouldbecome so hot from the exhaust gases theymight cause a fire or a person would beseverely burned if they came in contactwith the cover.

Therefore, an inner plate is installed tohelp dissipate the exhaust heat. Two gas-kets are installed -- one on either side ofthe inner plate. Water is channeled tocirculate between the exhaust cover and theinner plate. This circulating water cools theexhaust cover and prevents it from becom-ing a hazard.

On some early model outboards (the late1950's and early 1960's), the inner plate wasconstructed of aluminum. Unfortunately,the aluminum would corrode through, espec-ially in a salt water enviroment, and thenwater could enter the lower cylinder andcause a power head failure. The accompany-ing illustration clearly shows an inner platecorroded through, allowing water to enterthe lower cylinder. To correct this corro-sion problem, the inner plate is now made ofstainless steel material.

A thorough cleaning of the inner platebehind the exhaust covers should be per-formed during a major engine overhaul. Ifthe integrity of the exhaust cover assemblyis in doubt, replace the complete coverincluding the inner plate.

Removing the inner plate from the powerhead.

3-12 POWERHEAD

On powerheads equipped with the heat/-electric choke, a baffle is installed on theinside surface of the inner plate. Thisbaffle is heated from the engine exhaustgases. Air passing through the baffle heatsthe choke and allows the choke to open asengine temperature rises.

CLEANING

Clean any gasket material from the cov-er and inner plate surfaces. Check to besure the water passages in the cover andplate are clean to permit adequate passageof cooling water.

Inspect the inlet and outlet hole in thepower head to be sure they are clean andfree of corrosion. The openings in thepowerhead may be cleaned with a small sizescrewdriver.

Clean the area around the exhaust portsand in the webs running up to the exhaustports. Carbon has a habit of forming in thisarea.

INSTALLA TION

Procedures to install the exhaust coverswill be found in Section 3-15, Cylinder BlockService, under Bypass Cover and ExhaustCover Installation.

The exhaust area of the powerhead, open for inspec-tion and cleaning.

3-8 TOP SEAL

The top seal maintains vacuum and pres-sure in the crankcase at the top cylinder.

REMOVAL

This seal can only be removed using oneof two methods.

The first, is by using a special pullerwhile the power head is still assembled. Ifthe puller is used, thread the end of thepuller into the seal. After the puller issecured to the seal, remove the seal fromthe power head by tightening the centerscrew on the puller. DO NOT attempt touse any other type of tool to remove thisseal or the power head flanges will be dam-aged. If the flanges are damaged, the blockmust be replaced.

The second method is to remove the sealduring powerhead disassembling. After thecrankcase cover has been removed, the sealwill be loose and can be easily removed byholding onto the bearing and prying the sealout.

INSTALLA TION

To install the seal with the power headassembled, coat the outside diameter of the

Using the proper tools to remove the top seal.

seal with OMC Seal Compound. Use thespecial tool to tap the seal EVENLY intoplace around the crankshaft.

If the power head has been disassembled,a socket or other similar type tool of equaldiameter as the seal may be used to tap itinto the bearing. If the powerhead beingserviced does not have the seal in the bear-ing, lay the seal in the recess of the block.When the crankcase cover is installed, theseal will be in place.

3-9 BOTTOM SEAL

The bottom seal has equal importance asthe top seal. This seal is installed tomaintain vacuum and pressure in the lowerhalf of the crankcase for the lower cylinder.

The bottom seal will vary, depending onthe model engine being serviced. The fol-lowing procedures and accompanying illus-trations cover the most common Johnson/-Evinrude bottom seal installed.

Seal Mounted on the DriveshaftWhen the power head is removed, observe

around the driveshaft at the lower end, andthe seal will be visible. The seal consists ofa gasket, plate, an O-ring, lower sealbearing, spring, washer, and a pin. The pin

Using the proper tools to install the top seal.

BOTTOM SEAL 3-13

is installed through the dr iveshaft and holdsthe seal upward and in place.

As the powerhead is lowered down overthe driveshaft during installation, the seal isheld in place and will hold the vacuum andpressure created when the engine is operat-ing.

RemovalWith the powerhead assembled, it is a

simple matter to reach into the exhausthousing and remove the seal and then re-place the gasket and O-ring. Check thespring, to be sure it is not distorted, and thewasher for damage.

Seal Mounted on the CrankshaftThis bottom seal prevents exhaust fumes

from entering the crankcase, and holds pres-sure and vacuum inside. The seal consists ofa quadrant ring, O-ring, retainer washer,spring, another washer, and a snap ring.

RemovalTo remove this seal from the lower end

of the crankshaft, use a pair of Tru-arcpliers and CAREFULLY remove the snapring. TAKE CARE not to lose any of theparts due to the spring pressure against thesnap ring. Notice how the quadrant O-ringfits inside the seal. This ring is also remov-able. Observe how the seal has a raisededge on one side. This raised edge MUSTface upward when the seal is installed.

Powerhead lower seal installed on the driveshaft.

3-14 POWERHEAD

Using a pair of truarc pliers to remove the snap ringfrom the crankshaft.

INSPECTION

Check to be sure the spring has goodtension. Check to be sure the washers arenot distorted. The quadrant ring should beDISCARDED and a new one installed.

Good shop practice dictates the quadrantseal be replaced each time the lower seal is serviced.

Check the groove in the lower end of thecrankshaft where the truarc ring fits. If the

Quadrant ring installed in its retainer at the bottomseal.

Removing the quadrant seal and retainer from thecrankshaft.

groove is not clean, the ring will snap outand the lower sealing qualities will be lost.If the groove is badly corroded, the crank-shaft must be replaced.

Seal Pressed In Lower BearingThis type lower seal is very similar to

the top seal. The seal is pressed inside thelower bearing. Therefore, it is necessary to

Top bearing (left) and bottom bearing (right). Bothof these bearings require seals.

Pressing a new seal into a bearing.

remove the crankcase cover and lower bear-ing before the seal can be removed. Theseal is then pressed out of the bearing, usingan arbor press, and a new seal installed.

3-10 CENTERING PINS

All Johnson/Evinrude outboard engineshave at least one, and in most cases two,centering pins installed through the crank-case cover. These pins index into matchingholes in the power head block when thecrankcase cover is installed. These pinscenter the crankcase cover on the power-head block.

The centering pins are tapered. The pinsmust be carefully checked to determine howthey are to be removed from the cover. Inmost cases the pin is removed by using acenter punch and tapping the pin towardsthe carburetor or intake manifold side ofthe crankcase.

When removing a centering pin, hold thepunch securely onto the pin head, thenstrike the punch a good hard forceful blow.DO NOT keep beating on the end of the pin,because such action would round the pinhead until it would not be possible to driveit out of the cover.

Centering pins are the first item to beinstalled in the cover when replacing thecrankcase cover.

Cylinder block with the two centering pins installed.

CENTERING PINS 3-15

Removing a centering pin from the cylinder block.

3-11 MAIN BEARING BOLTS ANDCRANKCASE SIDE BOLTS

The main bearing bolts are installedthrough the crankcase cover into the power-head block. Most engines have two boltsinstalled for the top main bearing, two forthe center main bearing, and two for thelower main bearing.

In many cases the upper and lower mainbearing bolts are DIFFERENT lengths.Therefore, take time to tag and identify thebol ts to ensure they will be installed in thesame location from which they were remov-ed.

The crankcase side bolts are installedalong the edge of the crankcase cover tosecure the cover to the cylinder block.

Removing the main bearing bolts from the power-head.

3-16 POWERHEAD

These bolts usually have a 7/16" head and allmust be removed before the crankcase cov-er can be removed. Remove the crankcaseside bolts.

Remove the main bearing bolts. Twobol ts installed in the center are behind thereeds. Normally these two are not actuallybolts, but Allen head screws. All six mainbearing bolts must be removed before thecrankcase cover can be removed.

INSTALLA TION

Main bearing bolt and the crankcase sidebolt installation is given in Section 3-15,Cylinder Block Assembling, under MainBearing and Crankcase Side Bolt Installa-tion.

3-12 CRANKCASE COVER

REMOVAL

After all side bolts and main bear ingbol ts have been removed, use a soft-headedmallet and tap on the bottom side of thecrankshaft. A soft, hollow sound should beheard indicating the cover has broken loosefrom the crankcase. If this sound is notheard, check to be sure all the side bolts andmain bearing bolts have been removed.NEVER pry between the cover and thecrankcase or the cover will surely be dis-torted •.If the cover is distorted, it will failto make a proper seal when it is installed.

Cylinder block after the crankcase cover has beenremoved.

Once the crankshaft has been tapped, asdescribed, and the proper sound heard, thecover will be jarred loose and may be re-moved.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

Wash the cover with solvent, and thendry it thoroughly. Check the mating surfaceto the cylinder block for damage that mayaffect the seal.

Inspect the labyrinth seal grooves at thecenter main bearing area to be sure they areclean and not damaged in any manner.

INST ALLA TION

Installation procedures for the crankcasecover are given in Section 3-15, CylinderBlock Service, under Crankcase Cover In-stallation.

3-13 CONNECTING RODSAND PISTONS

The connecting rods and their rod capsare a MATCHED set. They absolutely MUSTbe identified, kept, and installed as a set.Under no circumstances should the connect-ing rod and caps be interchanged. There-fore, on a multiple piston engine, TAKETIME AND CARE to tag each rod and rodcap; to keep them together as a set whilethey are on the bench; and to install theminto the same cylinder from which theywere removed as a set.

Crankcase cover with the labyrinth seal area clearlyvisible.

Rod and rod cap with the two alignment dimplesshown.

The connecting rod and its cap on 15 to40 hp engines are manufactured as a set --asa single unit. After the complete rod andcap have been made, two holes are drilledthrough the side of the cap and rod, and thecap is then fractured from the rod. There-fore, the cap must always be installed withits original rod. The cap half of the breakcan ONLY be matched with the other half ofthe break on the ORIGINAL rod.

The rods and caps on the smaller horse-power engines are made of aluminum withbabbitt inserts. These rods and caps aremanufactured as two separate items.

Inspect the rod and the rod cap beforeremoving the cap from the crankshaft. Un-der normal conditions, a line or a dot isvisible on the top side of the rod and thecap. This identification is an assist toassemble the parts together and in the prop-er location.

Observe into the block and notice howthe rods have a "trough". Also notice thehole in the rod near where the wrist pinpasses through the piston. On many rodsthere is also a hole in the rod at the crankend. These two holes MUST AL WAYS faceupward during installation.

Rod and rod cap with the alignment line marksshown.

ROD AND PISTONS 3-17

Wrist pin end of the rod with the pressed-in bearingshown.

REMOVAL

To remove the rod bolts from the cap, itis recommended to loosen each bolt just alittle at-a-time and alternately. This proce-dure will prevent one bolt from being com-pletely removed while the other is stilltightened to its recommended torque value.Such action may very likely warp the cap.

Remove the bolts as described in theprevious paragraph, and then CAREFULLYremove the rod cap to prevent loosing theneedle bearings installed under the cap, \ifused.

Remove the needle bearings and cages,if used, from around the crankshaft. Countthe needle bearings and insert them into aseparate container -- one container for eachrod, with the container clearly identified toensure they will be installed with the properrod at the crankshaft journal from whichthey were removed.

Removing the bolts from the rod cap,

3-18 POWERHEAD

Tap the piston out of the cylinder fromthe crankshaft side. Immediately attach theproper rod cap to the rod and hold it inplace with the rod bolts. The few minutesinvolved in securing the cap with the rodwill ensure the matched cap remains withits mating rod during the cleaning and as-sembling work.

Identify the rod to ensure it will beinstalled into the cylinder from which it wasremoved.

Remove and identify the other rod caps,needle bearings and cages, and rods withpistons, in the same manner.

DISASSEMBL Y

Before separating the piston from therod, notice the location of the piston inrelation to the rod. Observe the hole in therod trough on one side of the rod near thewrist pin opening and another at the lowerend. These holes must face toward the TOPof the engine during installation.

Observe the slanted edge and the sharpedge of the dome-type piston. The slantededge MUST face toward the exhaust side ofthe cylinder and the sharp edge toward theintake side during installation.

When the rod is installed to the piston,the relationship of the rod can only be oneway. The rod holes must face upward andthe piston must face as described in theprevious paragraph.

Removing the rod cap from the rod.

WORDIILOOSEII

Identifying word "LOOSE" on the inside of the pistonskirt and the hole in the rod at the wrist pin end. Thewrist pin must be driven from the loose side of thepiston out the tight side, as described in the text.

Observe into the piston skirt. On mostmodel pistons, notice the "L" stamped on theboss through which the wrist pin passes.The letter mark identifies the "loose" sideof the piston and indicates side of the pistonfrom which the wrist pin must be driven outwithout damaging the piston. Some pistonsmay have the full word ''LOOSE'' stamped onthe inside of the piston skirt.

If the piston does not have the "L 1111 or theword LOOSE stamped, the wrist pin may bedriven out in either direction.

Close view of a piston with the slanted edge andsharp edges identified. The piston can only be installedone way for proper operation.

It may be necessary to heat the piston ina container of boiling water in order topress the wrist pin free.

Remove the retaining clips from eachend of the wrist pin. Some clips are springwire type and may be worked free of thepiston using a screwdriver. Other modelpistons have a truarc snap ring. This type ofring can only be successfully removed usinga pair of truarc pliers.

Place the piston in an arbor press usingthe PROPER size cradle for the piston beingserviced, and with the LOOSE side of thepiston facing UPWARD.

The wrist pin must be driven out FROMthe loose side. This may not seem reason-able, but there is a very simple explanation.By placing the piston in the arbor presscradle with the tight side down, and thearbor ram pushing from the loose side, thepiston has good support and will not be dis-torted. If the piston is placed in the arborpress with the loose side down, the pistonwould be distorted and unfit for furtherser vice.

Many rods have a wrist pin bearing.Some are caged bearings and other are not.

Heating a piston in hot water to expand the metalslightly.

RODS AND PISTONS 3-19

TRUARCSNAP RING

Removing the wrist pin truarc snap ring from thepiston.

Snap ring used to retain the wrist pin in the piston.

Removing a snap ring with a pointed tool.

3-20 POWERHEAD

TAKE CARE not to lose any of the bearingswhen the wrist pin is driven free of thepiston.

Alternate Removal MethodIf the piston does not have the "L" or the

word LOOSE stamped, the wrist pin may bedriven out in either direction.

If an arbor press or cradle is not avail-able, proceed as follows: Heat the piston ina container of very hot water for about tenminutes. Heating the piston will cause themetal to expand ever so slightly, but easethe task of driving the pin out. Assume asitting position in a chair, on a box, what-ever. Next, lay a couple towels over yourlegs. Hold your legs tightly together toform a cradle for the piston above yourknees. Set the piston between your legswith the LOOSE side of the piston facing upward. Now, drive the wrist pin free usinga drift pin with a shoulder. The drift pinwill fit into the hole through the wrist pinand the shoulder will ride on the edge of thewrist pin. Use sharp hard blows with ahammer. Your legs will absorb the shockwithout damaging the piston. If this methodis used on a regular basis during the busyseason, your legs will develop black-and-blue areas, but no problem, the marks willdisappear in a few days.

Removing the wrist pin using a holding block.

Removing the wrist pin using a drift pin. The pistoncan be supported between your legs as described in the text.

Rod, rod cap, wrist pin, and wrist pin bearing, afterremoval.

Testing two rods at the wrist pin end for warpage.

Testing two rods at the rod cap end for warpage.

Needle bearings and cages unfit for further service.

ROD INSPECTION AND SERVICE

If the rod has needle bearings, the need-les should be replaced anytime a majoroverhaul is performed. It is not necessaryto replace the cages, but a complete NEWset of needles should be purchased and in-stalled.

Place each connecting rod on a surfaceplate and check the alignment. If light canbe seen under any portion of the machinedsurfaces, or if the rod has a slight wobble onthe plate, or if a 0.002" feeler gauge can beinserted between the machined surface andthe surface plate, the rod is bent and unfitfor further service.

Inspect the connecting rod bearings forrust or signs of bearing failure. NEVERintermix new and used bearings. If even onebearing in a set needs to be replaced, allbearings at that location MUST be replaced.

Inspect the bearing surface of the rodand the rod cap for rust and pitting.

Inspect the bearing surface of the rodand the rod cap for water marks. Watermarks are caused by the bearing surfacebeing subjected to water contamination,which causes "etching". The etching re-sembles the size of the bearing as shown inthe accompanying illustration.

Inspect the bearing surface of the rodand rod cap for signs of spalling. Spalling is

The wrist pin bearing should be carefully checked tobe sure the needles turn freely and there is no sign ofcorrosion.


Badly rusted and corroded crankshaft from a sub-merged engine. This crankshaft is no longer fit forservice.

the loss of bearing surface, and resemblesflaking or chipping. The spalling conditionwill be most evident on the thrust portion ofthe connecting rod in line with the I-beam.Bearing surface damage is usually caused byimproper lubrication.

Check the bearing surface of the rod androd cap for signs of chatter marks. Thiscondition is identified by a rough bearingsurface resembling a tiny washboard. Thecondition is caused by a combination of low-speed low-load operation in cold water, andis aggravated by inadequate lubrication andimproper fuel. Under these conditions, thecrankshaft journal is hammered by the con-necting rod. As ignition occurs in the

A crankshaft cleaned and ready for installation.

3-22 POWERHEAD

cylinder, the piston pushes the connectingrod with tremendous force, and this force istransferred to the connecting rod journal.

Since there is little or no load on thecrankshaft, it bounces away from the con-necting rod. The crankshaft then remainsimmobile for a split second, until the pistontravel causes the connecting rod to catch upto the waiting crankshaft journal, then ham-mers it.

In some instances, the connecting rodcrankpin bore becomes highly polished.

While the engine is running, a "whirr"and/ or "chirp" sound may be heard when theengine is accelerated rapidly from idlespeed to about 1500 rpm, then quickly re-turned to idle. If chatter marks are discov-ered, the crankshaft and the connecting rodsshould be replaced.

Inspect the bearing surface of the rodand rod cap for signs of uneven wear andpossible overheating. Uneven wear is usual-ly caused by a bent connecting rod. Over-heating is identified as a bluish bearingsurface color and is caused by inadequatelubrication or operating the engine at exces-sive high rpm.

Inspect the needle bearings, if installed.A bluish color indicates the bearing becamevery hot and the complete set for the rodMUST be replaced, no question.

Service the connecting rod bearing sur-faces according to the following proceduresand precautions:

a- Align the etched marks on the knobside of the connecting rod with the etchedmarks on the connecting rod cap.

b- Tighten the connecting rod cap at-taching bolts securely.

Installing the rod cap onto the rod in preparation forcleaning the inside surface. The cap MUST always bekept with its matching rod.

Rod cap separated slightly from its matching rod.Notice the matching hills and valleys.

c- Use ONLY crocus cloth to cleanbearing surface at the crankshaft end of theconnecting rod. NEVER use any other typeof abrasive cloth.

d- Insert the crocus cloth in a slotted3/8" diameter shaft. Chuck the shaft in adrill press and operate the press at highspeed and at the same time, keep the con-necting rod at a 900 angle to the slottedshaft.

e- Clean the connecting rod ONLYenough to remove marks. DO NOT continueonce the marks have disappeared.

f- Clean the piston pin end of the con-necting rod using the method described inSteps d and e, but using 320 grit Carborun-dum cloth instead of crocus cloth.

g- Thoroughly wash the connecting rodsto remove abrasive grit. After washing,check the bearing surfaces a second time.

h- If the connecting rod cannot becleaned properly, it should be replaced.

i- Lubricate the bearing surfaces of theconnecting rods with light-weight oil to pre-vent corrosion.

PISTON AND RINGINSPECTION AND SERVICE

Inspect each piston for evidence of scor-ing, cracks, metal damage, cracked pistonpin boss, or worn pin boss. Be especially

Testing the wrist pin end of the rod prior toinstallation.

critical during inspection if the engine hasbeen submerged.

Carefully check each wrist pin to be sureit is not the least bit bent. If a wrist pin isbent, the pin and piston MUST be replacedas a set, because the pin will have damagedthe boss when it was removed.

Check the wrist pin bearings. If thebearing is the pressed-in type, use yourfinger and determine the bearing is in goodcondition with no indication of binding or"rough" spots. If the wrist pin bearing is theremovable type, the needle should be re-placed.

Grasp each end of the ring with either aring expander or your thumbnails, open thering and remove it from the piston. Manytimes, the ring may be difficult to removebecause it is "frozen" in the piston ringgroove. In such a case, use a screwdriverand pry the ring free. The ring may break,but if it is difficult to remove, it MUST bereplaced.

OBSERVE the pin in each ring groove ofthe piston. The ends of the ring MUSTstraddle this pin. The pin prevents the ringfrom rotating while the engine is operating.This fact is the direct opposite of a four-cycle engine where the ring must rotate. Ina two-cycle engine, if the ring is permittedto rotate, at one point, the opening betweenthe ring ends would align with either theintake or exhaust port in the cylinder. At

Piston badly scored and no longer fit for service.


Close view of a piston showing the ring pin in thegroove.

that time, the ring would expand veryslightly, catch on the edge of the port, andBREAK.

Therefore, when checking the conditionof the piston, AL WAYS check the pin ineach groove to be sure it is tight. If one pinis the least bit loose, the piston MUST bereplaced, without question. Never attemptto replace the pin, it is NEVER successful.

Removing the rings from the piston.

3-24 POWERHEAD

Check the piston ring grooves for wear,burns, distortion or loose locating pins.During an overhaul, the rings should bereplaced to ensure lasting repair and properengine performance after the work has beencompleted.

Clean the piston dome, ring grooves andthe piston skirt. Clean the piston skirt witha crocus doth.

Clean carbon deposits from the top ofthe piston using a soft wire brush, carbonremoval solution, or by sand blasting. If awire brush is used, TAKE CARE not to burror round machined edges.

Wear a pair of good gloves for protectionagainst sharp edges, and dean the pistonring grooves using the recessed end of theproper broken ring as a tool. NEVER use arectangular ring to clean the groove for atapered ring, or use a tapered ring to cleanthe groove for a rectangular ring.

NEVER use an automotive-type ringgroove cleaner to clean piston ring grooves,because this type of tool could loosen the piston ring locating pins. TAKE CARE notto burr or round the machined edges. In-spect the piston ring locating pins to be surethey are tight. There is one locating pin ineach ring groove. If one locating pin isloose, the piston must be replaced. Neverattempt to replace the pin, it is NEVERsuccessful.

Oversize Pistons and RingsScored cylinder blocks can be saved for

further service by reboring and installing

Cleaning the piston ring grooves. An automotivetype ring groove cleaner should NEVER be used.

Using a micrometer to check the roundness of thepiston.

oversize pistons and piston. rings. ONEMORE WORD: Oversize pistons and ringsare not available for all engines. At thetime of this printing, the sizes listed in theAppendix were available. Check with theparts department at your local dealer forthe model engine you are servicing, and tobe sure the factory has not deleted a sizefrom their stock.

ASSEMBLING

CRITICAL WORDSTwo conditions absolutely MUST exist

when the piston and rod assembly are instal-led into the cylinder block.

The slanted side of the piston must facetoward the exhaust side of the cylinder.

The hole in the rod near the wrist pinopening and at the lower end of the rodmust face UPWARD.

An automotive ring compressor should NEVER beused to install the rings for a two-cycle engine.

Therefore, the rod and piston MUST beassembled correctly in order for the as-sembly to be properly installed into thecylinder. Soak the piston in a container ofvery hot water for about ten minutes.Heating the piston will cause it to expandever so slightly, but enough to allow thewrist pin to be pressed through withoutdif f icul ty,

Before pressing the wrist pin into place,hold the piston and rod near the cylinderblock and check to be sure both will befacing in the right direction when they areinstalled.

Pack the wrist pin needle bearing capewith needle bearing grease, or a goal gradeof petroleum jelly. Load the bearing cazewith needles and insert it into the end ~of therod.

Slide the rod into the piston boss andcheck a second time to be sure the slantedside of the piston is facing toward theexhaust side of the cylinder a'nd the hole inthe rod is facing upward.

Place the piston and rod in the arborpress with the LOOSE or stamped "Lit side of the piston facing UPWARD. Press the wristpin through the piston and rod. Continue topress the wrist pin through until the groovein the wrist pin for the lock ring is visible onboth ends of the pin. Remove the assemblyfrom the arbor press. Install the retainingring onto each end of the wrist pin. Somemodels have a wire ring, and others have atruarc ring. Use a pair of truarc pliers toinstall the tr uar c ring.

Fill the piston skirt with a rag, towel,shop cloths, or other suitable material. The

The slanted side of the piston MUsr face theexhaust port and the sharp edge face the intake port.


WORDIIlOOSE-'

Wrist pin entering the piston from the 1/ LOOSE"side.

rag will prevent the rod from coming incontact with the piston skirt while it islaying on the bench. If the rod is allowed tostrike the piston skirt, the skirt may becomedistorted.

Assemble the other pistons, rods, andwrist pins in the same manner. Fill the skirtwith rags as protection until the assembly isinstalled.

Alternate Assembling MethodIf an arbor press is not available, the

piston may be assembled to the rod in muchthe same manner as described for disas-sembling.

Heating the piston in hot water to expand the metalslightly as an assist to installing the wrist pin.

3-26 POWERHEAD

First, soak the piston in a container ofvery hot water for about ten minutes.

Before pressing the wrist pin into place,hold the piston and rod near the cylinderblock and check to be sure both will befacing in the right direction when they areinstalled.

Pack the wrist pin needle bearing cagewith needle bearing grease, or a good gradeof petroleum jelly. Load the bearing cagewith needles and insert it into the end of therod.

Slide the rod into the piston boss andcheck a second time to be sure the slantedside of the piston is facing toward theexhaust side of the cylinder and the hole inthe rod is facing upward.

Now, assume a sitting position and lay acouple towels over your lap. Hold your legstightly together to form a cradle for thepiston above your knees. Set the pistonbetween your legs with the LOOSE side ofthe piston facing upward. Now, drive thewrist pin through the piston using a drift pinwith a shoulder. The drift pin will fit intothe hole through the wrist pin and theshoulder will ride on the end of the wristpin. Use sharp hard blows with a hammer.Your legs will absorb the shock withoutdamaging the piston. If this method is usedon a regular basis during the busy season,your legs will develop black-and-blue areas,but no problem, the marks will disappear ina few days.

Continue to drive the wrist pin throughthe piston until the groove in the wrist pinfor the lockring is visible at both ends.Install the retaining spring wire or truarcring onto each end of the wrist pin.

Install ing the rod and wrist pin bearing into thepiston.

DRIFTPIN

HOLDINGBLOCK

Install the wrist pin using a holding block.

F ill the piston skirt with a rag, towel,shop cloths, or other suitable material. Therag will prevent the rod from coming incontact with the piston skirt while it islaying on the bench. If the rod is allowed tostrike the piston skirt, the skirt may becomedistorted.

Assemble the other pistons, rods, andwrist pins in the same manner. Fill the skirtwith rags as protection until the assembly isinstalled.

Installing the wrist pin without an arbor press. Thepiston can be held in your lap as described in the text.

Filling the inside of the piston to protect the skirtfrom being struck by the rod before the piston isi'!stalled in the cylinder block.

INSTALLATION

Piston and rod assembly installation pro-cedures will be found in Section 3-15, Cylin-der Block Service under Piston Installation

3-14 CRANKSHAFT

REMOVAL

Lift the crankshaft assembly from theblock. On some models, especially thelarger horsepower engines, it may be neces-sary to use a soft-headed mallet and tap onthe bottom side of the crankshaft to jar itloose. As the crankshaft is lifted, TAKECARE to work the center main bearingloose. This center bearing is a split bearingheld together with a snap wire ring. Onsome models, the bottom half of the bearingmay be stuck in the cylinder block. There-fore, the crankshaft and the center mainbearing must be worked free of the block together.

If servicing a 15 hp to 40 hp engine,observe how the center main bearing, andthe top and bottom main bearings all have ahole in the outside circumference. Notice

Crankshaft with the upper, center, and lower mainbearings ready to be removed.

CRANKSHAFT 3-27

Crankcase cover with the labyrinth seal area clearlyvisible.

the locating pins in the cylinder block. Thepurpose of this arrangement is to preventthe bearing shell from rotating. Duringassembling, the holes in the bearings MUSTindex with the pins in the block. Also noticethe grooves in the block on one side of thecenter main bearing. Observe the groovesin the crankcase cover. This arrangementof grooves forms what is commonly knownas a "labyrinth" seal. The grooves fill withoil and/or fuel creating a seal between thecylinders.

On the smaller horsepower engines, bab-bitt bearings are used for the center mainwith needle bearings installed for the upperand lower main bearings.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Inspect the splines for signs of abnormalwear. Check the crankshaft for straight-ness. Inspect the crankshaft oil seal sur-faces to be sure they are not grooved, pittedor scratched. Replace the crankshaft if it isseverely damaged or worn. Check all crank-shaft bearing surfaces for rust, water

Badly rusted and corroded crankshaft from a sub-merged engine. This· crankshaft is no longer fit forservice.

3-28 POWERHEAD

marks, chatter marks, uneven wear or over-heating. Clean the crankshaft surfaces withcrocus cloth.

Clean the crankshaft and crankshaftbearing with solvent. Dry the parts, butNOT the bearing, with compressed air.Check the crankshaft surfaces a secondtime. Replace the crankshaft if the sur-faces cannot be cleaned properly for satis-factory service. If the crankshaft is to beinstalled for service, lubricate the surfaceswith light oil.

The top and lower bearing may be easilyremoved from the crankshaft. The centermain bearing has a spring steel wire secur-ing the two halves together. Remove thewire, and then the outer sleeve, then the needle bearings. TAKE CARE not to loseany of the needles. The outer shell is afractured break type unit. Therefore, thetwo halves of the shell MUST absolutely bekept as a set.

Check the crankshaft bearing surfaces tobe sure they are not pitted or show any signsof rust or corrosion. If the bearing surfacesare pitted or rusted, the crankshaft andbear ings must be replaced.

During an engine overhaul to this degree,it is a good practice to remove the seal

A crankshaft cleaned and ready for installation.

Crankshaft with a badly corroded "throw". Thiscrankshaft is unfit for further service.

from the top main bearing. If the same typeof seal is used in the bottom main bear ing,remove that seal also.

ASSEMBLING

Insert the proper number of needle bear-ings into the center main bearing cage.Install the outer sleeve over the bearingcage. Check to be sure the two halves ofthe outer sleeve are matched. Again, thesetwo halves are manufactured as a single unitand then broken. Therefore, the hills andvalleys of the break absolutely MUST matchduring installation.

Snap the retaining ring into place aroundthe bearing. Slide the upper bearing ontothe crankshaft journal at the upper end andthe lower bearing onto the lower end. Ro-tate the installed bearings to be sure thereis no evidence of binding or rough spots.The crankshaft is now ready for installation.

INSTALLA TION

Installation procedures are given in Sec-tion 3-15, Cylinder Block Service, underCrankshaft Installation.

3-15 CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE

Inspect the cylinder block and cylinderbores for cracks or other damage. Remove

Crankshaft with the upper, center, and lower mainbearings installed. Check to be sure the snap ring onthe center main bearing is installed.

carbon with a fine wire brush on a shaftattached to an electric drill or use a carbonremover solution.

Use an inside micrometer or telescopicgauge and micrometer to check the cylin-ders for wear. Check the bore for out-of-round and/or oversize bore. If the bore istapered, out-of-round or worn more than0.003" - 0.004" (0.076 mm - 0.102 mrn) thecylinders should be rebored and oversizepistons and rings installed.

GOOD WORDS:Oversize piston weight is approximately

the same as a standard size piston. There-fore, it is NOT necessary to rebore allcylinders in a block just because one cylin-der requires reboring. The APBA (AmericanPower Boat Association) accepts and per-mits the use of 0.015" (0.381 mrn) oversizepistons.

Hone the cylinder walls lightly to seatthe new piston rings, as outlined in theHoning Procedures Section in this chapter.If the cylinders have been scored, but arenot out-of-round or the sleeve is rough,clean the surface of the cylinder with acylinder hone as described in Honing Proce-dures, next section.

SPECIAL WORDCylinder sleeves may be installed on

some models, but the cost is very high.

Resurfacing a cylinder wall using a honing tool.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-29

HONING PROCEDURES

To ensure satisfactory engine perform-ance and long life following the overhaulwork, the honing work should be performedwith patience, skill, and in the followingsequence:

a- Follow the hone manufacturer's re-commendations for use of the hone and forcleaning and lubricating during the honingoperation.

b- Pump a continuous flow of honing oilinto the work area. If pumping is notpractical, use an oil can. Apply the oilgenerously and frequently on both the stonesand work surface.

c- Begin the stroking at the smallestdiameter. Maintain a firm stone pressureagainst the cylinder wall to assure faststock removal and accurate results.

d- Expand the stones as necessary tocompensate for stock removal and stonewear. The best cross-hatch pattern is ob-tained using a stroke rate of 30 completecycles per minute. Again, use the honingoil generously.

e- Hone the cylinder walls ONLY enoughto de-glaze the walls.

f- After the honing operation has beencompleted, clean the cylinder bores with hotwater and detergent. Scrub the walls with astiff bristle brush and rinse thoroughly withhot water. The cylinders MUST be cleanedwell as a prevention against any abrasivematerial remaining in the cylinder bore.Such material will cause rapid wear of newpiston rings, the cylinder bore, and the bear-ings.

g- After cleaning, swab the bores sev-eral times with engine oil and a clean cloth,and then wipe them dry with a dean doth.NEVER use kerosene or gasoline to clean thecylinders.

h- Clean the remainder of the cylinderblock to remove any excess material spreadduring the honing operation.

WORDS OF ADVICEIf new rings are to be installed, each ring

from the package MUST be checked in thecylinder. Errors happen. Men and machinescan make mistakes. The wrong size ring canbe included in a package with the properpart number.

Therefore, check EACH ring, one at-a-time as follows: Turn the ring sideways and lower it a couple inches into the cylinder

3-30 POWERHEAD

bore. Now, turn the ring horizontal in thecylinder. It is now in its normal operatingposition, but without the piston. Next, use afeeler gauge and measure the distance (thegap) between the ends of the ring. Themaximum and minimum allowable ring gapis listed in the Specifications in the Appen-dix.

Turn the piston upside down and slide itin and out of the cylinder. The piston shouldslide without any evidence of binding.

ASSEMBLING

SPECIAL WORDThe cylinder block assembling work

should proceed quickly and without interrup-tions. If the work is.par ti al ly completed andthen left for any period of time, sealantmay become hard, parts may be moved andtheir identity for a particular cylinder lost,or an important step may be bypassed, over-looked, or forgotten.

The following procedures pickup thework of assembling the cylinder block AF-TER the various parts have been serviced and assembled. Procedures for each areaare found in this chapter under separateheadings.

PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLYINSTALLATION

Several different methods are possible toinstall the piston and rod assembly into the cylinder. The following procedures are out-lined for the do-i t-yourselfer , working athome without the advantage of specialtools.

First, purchase a special hose clamp witha strip of metal inside the clamp, as shown

Checking the ring gap clearance by inserting thering in the cylinder, as described in the text.

Using a feeler gauge to check the ring end gap withthe ring in the cylinder.

in the accompanying illustration. Thispiece of metal on the inside allows theoutside portion of the clamp to slide on theinner strip without causing the ring to ro-tate.

Actually, to our knowledge a Mercr uiserdealer is the only place such a clamp may bepurchased. At the Mercruiser marine deal-er, ask for an exhaust bellows hose clamp.The design of this hose clamp prevents theclamp and the piston ring from turning asthe clamp is tightened. DO NOT attempt touse an ordinary hose clamp from an automo-tive parts house because such a clamp willcause the piston ring to rotate as the clampis tightened. The ring MUST NOT rotate,because the ring ends must remain on eitherside of the dowel pin in the ring groove.

Next, coat the inside surface of thecylinder with a film of light-weight oil.Coat the exterior surface of the piston withthe oil.

TAKE TIMETake just a minute to notice how the

piston rings are manufactured. Each end of

Proper hose clamp to install the rings if a ringcompressor is not available.

the ring has a small cutout on the insidecircumference. Now, visualize the ring in-stalled in the piston groove. The ring endsmust straddle the pin installed in each pis-ton groove. As the ring is tightened aroundthe piston, the ends will begin to cometogether. When the piston is installed intothe cylinder bore, the two ends of the ringwill come together and the cutout edge willbe up against the pin. For this reason,CARE must be exercised when installing therings onto the piston and when the piston isinstalled into the cylinder.

Install only the bottom ring into thebottom piston groove. Do not expand thering any further than necessary, to preventit from breaking.

Install the ring into the piston groovewith the ends of the ring straddling the pinin the groove. The ring ends MUST straddlethe pin to prevent the ring from rotatingduring engine operation. In a two-cycleengine, if the ring is permitted to rotate, atone point the opening between the ring endswould align with either the intake or ex-haust port in the cylinder, the ring wouldexpand very slightly, catch on the edge ofthe port, and BREAK.

CAREFULLY insert the rod and the pis-ton skirt down into the cylinder.

GOOD WORDSThe following four areas must be check-

ed at this point in the assembling work.

Piston ring groove pins. The ends of the ring muststraddle the pin.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-31

Installing the hose clamp over the ring prior tomoving the piston further into the cylinder.

a- The piston and rod are being installedinto the same cylinder from which they were removed.

b- The hole in the rod is facing UP-WARD.

e- The slanted side of the piston is TO-WARD the exhaust side of the cylinder.

d- The ends of the bottom ring straddlethe pin in the piston groove.

Push the piston into the cylinder untilthe bottom ring, just installed, is about aninch from the surface of the cylinder block.

Tapping the piston into the cylinder with a soft-headed mallet.

Using a ring expander to install the ring onto thepiston during piston installation.

3-32 POWERHEAD

When installing the piston into a small horsepowerpowerhead, it is possible to compress the ring with thefingers of each hand, and then to push the piston intothe cylinder with your thumbs.

Install the hose clamp over the pistonand bottom ring. Tighten the hose clampwith one hand and at the same time rotatethe clamp back-and-forth slightly with theother hand. This "rocking" motion of theclamp as it is tightened will convince youthe ring ends are properly positioned oneither side of the pin. Continue to tightenthe clamp, and "rocking" the clamp until

Both pistons installed in the powerhead. Notice thecylinder identification on each piston. The slanted sideof the each piston is facing toward the exhaust port.

Checking the flexibility of the rings through intakeport.

the clamp is against the piston skirt. Atthis point, the ring ends will be together andthe cutout on each ring end will be againstthe pin.

Tap the piston with the end of a woodentool handle until the ring enters the cylin-der. Remove the hose clamp.

Install the remaining rings in the samemanner, one at-a-time, making sure theends of each ring straddle the pin in thepiston groove.

Notice how the ring pins are s~aggeredfrom one groove to the next, by 180 •

After the last ring has been installed andthe clamp removed, tap the piston into thebore until the crown is about even with thecylinder block surface.

Install the other pistons in exactly thesame manner.

Turn the cylinder block upside down withthe top of the block to your LEFT. Removethe bolts and rod caps from each rod. Seteach rod cap in a definite position to ensureeach will be installed onto the rod fromwhich it was removed.

Checking the flexibility of the rings through theexhaust port.

Crankshaft with the upper, lower, and center mainbearings installed. Notice the hole in each bearing.Matching pins in the cylinder block must index intothese holes during crankshaft installation.

CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATIONLARGE HORSEPOWER ENGINES15 HP TO 40 HP

The following procedures outline steps toinstall a crankshaft with needle upper, cen-ter, and lower main bearings. The upper andlower mains are complete bearings and can-not be disassembled. The center bearing iscaged. Installation procedures for smallhorsepower crankshafts with babbitt upper,lower, and center main bearings and withbabbitt rod bearings are given in the follow-ing sections.

Observe the pin installed in each mainbearing recess. Notice the hole in eachmain bearing outer shell. During installa-tion, the hole in each bearing shell MUSTindex over the pin in the cylinder block.

Hold the crankshaft over the cylinderblock wi th the upper end to your LEFT.Now, lower the crankshaft into the block,and at the same time, align the hole in eachbearing to enable the pin in the block to

Bearing locating pins in the cylinder block. Each pinmust index into a hole in the bearing shown in theillustration at the top of this column.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-33

Crankshaft installed into the cylinder block.

index with the hole. Rotate each bearingslightly until all pins are properly indexedwith the matching bearing hole. Once allpins are indexed, the crankshaft will beproperly seated.

Apply needle bearing grease to eachbearing cage. Coat the rod half of thebearing area with needle bearing grease.Needle bearing grease MUST be used be-cause other types of grease will not thin outand dissipate. The grease must disipate toallow the gasoline and oil mixture to enterand lubricate the bearing. If needle bearinggrease is not available, use a good grade ofpetroleum jelly (Vasollne).

Insert the proper number of needle bear-ings into each cage. Set the bearing cageinto the bottom half of the rod. With yourfingers on each side of the rod, pull up on the rod and bring the rod up to the bottom

Cage and needle bearings installed into the lowerportion of the rod.

3-34 POWERHEAD

Installing a needle bearing on each side of thecrankshaft.

side of the crankshaft. Put one needlebearing on each side of the crankshaft.Using needle bearing grease load the othercage and install the needle bearings into thecage. Lower the cage onto the crankshaftjournal.

Install the proper rod cap to the rod withthe identifying mark or dimple properlyaligned to ensure the cap is being installedin the same position from which it wasremoved. Tighten the rod bolts flnger tight ,and then just a bit more.

Use a "scratchall", pick, or similar tooland move it back-and-forth on the outsidesurface of the rod and cap. Make themovement across the mating line of the rodand cap. The tool should not catch on therod or on the cap. The rod cap must seatsquarely with the rod. If not, tap the capuntil the "scratchall" will move back-and-forth on the rod and cap across the mating

NEEDLE BEARINGSIN CAGE

Lowering the cage and needle bearings over the topof the crankshaft.

Rod and cap showing the alignment dimples.

Installing the rod cap over the needle bearings andcage.

Installing the rod cap bolts, and at the same time,checking the cap alignment with the rod using a pick.

INCORRECT CORRECT

line without any feeling of catching. Anystep on the outside will mean a step on theinside of the rod and cap. Just a whisker ofa lip, will cause one of the needle bearingsto catch and fail to rotate. The needle willquickly flatten, and the rod will begin to"knock". Needle bearings MUST rotate orthe function of the bearing is lost.

Tighten the rod cap bolts alternately andevenly in three rounds to the torque valuegiven in the Torque Table in the Appendix.Tighten the bolts to 1/2 the torque value onthe first round, to 3/4- the torque value onthe second round, and to the full torquevalue on the third and final round. On eachround, check with the pick to be sure thecap remains seated squarely.

Install the other rod cap/s in the samemanner.

After the rods have been connected tothe crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft untilthe rings on one cylinder are visible throughthe exhaust port. Use a screwdriver and

Checking the flexibility of the rings through theexhaust port.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-35

push on each ring to be sure it has springtension. It will be necessary to move thepiston slightly, because all of the rings willnot be visible at one time. If there is nospring tension, the ring was broken duringinstallation. The piston must be removedand a new ring installed. Repeat the tensiontest at the intake port. Check the othercylinder/s in the same manner.

CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATIONSMALL HORSEPOWER ENGINES1.5 HP W/TOP NEEDLE MAIN BRG.

AND BABBITT CTR. AND BOTTOM9.5 HP W/TOP AND BOTTOM NEEDLE

BRG. AND CTR. BABBITT BRG.5.0 HP, 5.5 HP, AND 6.0 HP W/ALL

BABBITT MAIN BEARINGS

This section provides detailed instruc-tions to install a small horsepower crank-shaft with any of the bearing combinationslisted in the heading. Some of the enginescovered in these paragraphs have rod liners,others do not as follows:

With rod bearing liner -- 1.5 hp, 5.0 hp,5.5 hp, 6 hp, and 9.5 hp from 1956 thru 1960.

With no rod bearing liner -- 5.5 hp and 10hp 1961 thru 1964-.

The procedures pickup the work afterthe piston/s have been installed, as describ-ed earlier in this section.

Lower the crankshaft into place in thecylinder block with the long threaded shankend at the top of the cylinder block. (It is aknown fact, in more than just a few shopsaround the country, because of haste, thecrankshaft installation work has proceededwith the short end at the top.)

Rod and cap with the alignment marks visible.

3-36 POWERHEAD

If servicing the 9.5 hp or a 10 hp engine,the hole in the upper and lower main bearingMUST index into the pin in the cylinderblock.

Some engines may have a lining arrange-ment as listed in the heading of this section.The lining is made in two parts. Install theliner half into the rod, then install thebearings as described in the next paragraph.The matching liner is to be installed into therod cap.

Coat the rod half, of the bearing area,with needle bearing grease. Needle bearinggrease MUST be used because other types ofgrease will not thin out and dissipate. Thegrease must dissipate to allow the gasolineand oil mixture to enter and lubricate thebearing. If needle bearing grease is notavailable, use a good grade of petroleumjelly (Vasoline).

Load the rod half of the rod bearing withneedle bearings. Next, bring the rod up tothe crankshaft rod journal. Coat the crank-shaft journal with needle bearing grease.Place the needle bearings around the crank-shaft jounal.

Position the rod cap, with the liners (ifused) over the needle bearings. Install therod cap bolts and lockwasher s, Bring thebol ts up fingertight, and then just a bitmore.

If the liners are used, the cap and rodautomatically align properly. If liners arenot used, a dowel pin is installed in the rodcap. This pin will index into a hole in therod for proper alignment.

Tighten the rod cap bolts alternately andevenly in three rounds to the torque valuegiven in the Specifications in the Appendix.Tighten the bolts to 1/2 the torque value onthe first round, to 3/4 the torque value on

Needle bearings installed in the rod cap liner andaround the crankshaft.

Rod cap with liner ready for installation around thecrankshaft.

the second round, and to the full torquevalue on the third and final round. On eachround, check with the pick to be sure thecap remains seated squarely.

After the rod cap bolts have been tight-ened to the required torque value and the installation appears satisfactory, bend thebolt locking tabs upward to prevent thebol ts f rom loosening.

Install the other rod capls in the samemanner.

After the rods have been connected tothe crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft untilthe rings on one cyllnder are visible throughthe exhaust port. Use a screwdriver andpush on each ring to be sure it has springtension. It will be necessary to move thepiston slightly, because all of the rings willnot be visible at one time. If there is nospring tension, the ring was broken duringinstallation. The piston must be removedand a new ring installed. Repeat the tensiontest at the intake port. Check the othercylinderls in the same manner.

The locking tabs must be bent upward after the rodcap bolts have been tightened to the proper torquevalue.

Rod and cap with the alignment marks visible.

CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION SMALL HORSEPOWER ENGINES BABBIT MAIN BEARINGS AND BABBITT ROD BEARINGS ALL 3.0 HP, 4.0 HP, AND 7.5 HP ENGINES

This section provides detailed instruc-tions to install a small horsepower crank-shaft with babbi tt upper, lower, and centermain bearings, and with babbitt rod bearingson the engines listed in the heading.

The procedures pickup the work afterthe piston/s have been installed, as describ-ed earlier in this section.

Lower the crankshaft into place in thecylinder block with the long threaded shank end at the top of the cylinder block. (It is aknown fact, in more than just a few shopsaround the country, because of haste, thecrankshaft installation work has proceededwith the short end at the top.)

Pull the rod up to the crankshaft journal.Position the rod cap over the crankshaftjournal. Install the rod cap bolts and lock-washers. Bring the bolts up fingertight, andthen just a bit more.

Tighten the rod cap bolts alternately andevenly in three rounds to the torque value

Tightening the rod cap bolts to the proper torquevalue.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-37

Using two hammers to fit the rod cap to thecrankshaft.

given in the Torque Table in the Appendix.Tighten the bolts to 1/2 the torque value onthe first round, to 3/4 the torque value onthe second round, and to the full torquevalue on the third and final round. On eachround, check wi th the pick to be sure thecap remains seated squarely.

Repeat the procedure for the other rodand cap.

After the other rod cap has been install-ed and the bolts tightened to the propertorque value, hold one hammer on one sideof the rod and cap, and at the same time tapthe other side of the rod and cap with theother hammer. Tap lightly on the top of thecap. Reverse the hammer positions and tapthe opposite sides of the rod and cap. Thisprocedure will "fit" the rod and cap to the crankshaft journal.

Checking movement of the pistons and crankshaftwith the flywheel temporarily installed.

3-38 POWERHEAD

Repeat the "fitting" procedure for theother rod and cap.

Once the installation procedure appearssatisfactory and all work has been complet-ed, bend the bolt locking tabs upward toprevent the bolts from loosening.

CRANKCASE COVER INSTALLATION

First, check to be sure the mating sur-faces of the crankcase cover and the cylin-der block are clean. Pay particular atten-tion to the labyrinth seal grooves in thecenter main bear ing area. The mating sur-faces and the seal grooves MUST be free ofany old sealing compound or other foreign material.

CRITICAL WORDSThe remainder of the cylinder block in-

stallation work should be performed WITH-OUT interruption. Do not begin the work ifa break in the sequence is expected, coffee,lunch, whatever. The sealer will begin toset almost immediately, therefore, thecrankcase cover installation, main bearingbolt installation and tightening, and the sidebolt installation and tightening must movealong rapidly.

Apply just a small amount of 1000 Sealerinto the groove in the cylinder block to holdthe seal in place. Install a new "spaghetti"seal into the groove, if used.

Installing sealer to the "spaghetti" seal in the crank-case cover.

Installing sealer to the cylinder block when the"spaqnetti" seal is not used.

Installing the tapered pin through the crankcasecover into the cylinder block.

Two tapered pins installed in the cylinder block.

SPECIAL NOTESome model powerheads do not use the

"spaghetti" seal. If the engine being ser-viced does not use the seal, apply a coatingof 1000 Sealer to the mating surface of thecylinder block and the crankcase cover. Theremaining installation instructions apply toall powerheads.

After the seal on both sides of thecylinder block have been installed, if used,apply a light coating of 1000 Sealer to theoutside edge of the "spaghetti" seal.

Next, lower the crankcase cover intoplace on the cylinder block. Install the twoguide centering pins through the cover andinto the block. The centering pins aretapered. Therefore, check the crankcaseand notice which side has the large hole andwhich has the small hole. The pin must beinserted into the large hole first. If the pinis installed into the small hole first, thecrankcase cover or the cylinder block willbreak.

MAIN BEARING BOLT ANDCRANKCASE SIDE BOLT INSTALLA TION

Apply a coating of 1000 Sealerthreads of the main bearing bolts.and tighten the main bearing bolts tight and then just a bit more.

Tighten the main bearing bolts alter-nately and evenly in three rounds to thetorque value given in the Torque Table inthe Appendix. Be sure to check the Specifi-cations in the Appendix for the engine beingserviced.

to theInstallfinger-

Installing the main bearing bol ts through the crank-case cover into the cylinder block.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-39

Tighten the bolts to 1/2 the total torquevalue on the first round, to 3/4 the totaltorque value on the second round, and to thefull torque value on the third and finalround.

As an example: If the total torque valuespecified is 200 f t-Ibs, the bolts should betightened to 100 ft-Ibs on the first go-around; to 150 ft-Ibs on the second round;and to the full 200 ft-lbs on the third round.

Install and tighten the crankcase sidebolts to the torque value given in the Ap-pendix.

Install the Woodruff key in the crank-shaft. Slide the flywheel onto the crank-shaft. Rotate the flywheel through severalrevolutions and check to be sure all movingparts indicate smooth operation without ev-idence of binding or "rough" spots.

Remove the flywheel and the Woodruffkey.

BOTTOM SEAL INSTALLATION15 HP TO 40 HP ENGINES

This type of seal is attached to thecrankshaft on the 15 and 40 hp engines. Onthe smaller engines, a seal is used on thecrankshaft with a spring, O-ring, and gasket.These items push up against the bottom ofthe power head to affect the seal.

Install the quadrant O-seal into thequadrant seal holder with the lip of the sealfacing toward the BOTTOM of the cylinderblock.

Apply a small amount of light-weight oilonto the quadrant O-ring, and then slide thering onto the crankshaft. Slide the largewasher, spring, and small washer, onto thecrankshaft, and secure them in place withthe truarc snap ring.

Installing the lower main seal assembly to thecrankshaft.

3-40 POWERHEAD

Using a pair of truarc pliers to install the truarcsnap ring onto the crankshaft to secure the bottom sealin place.

EXHAUST COVER ANDBYPASS COVER INSTALLATION

Coat both sides of a NEW gasket with1000 Sealer, and then place the gasket in position on the exhaust side of the cylinderblock. Install the inner plate. Coat bothsides of another NEW gasket with sealer ,andthen install the gasket and exhaust cover.

Secure the exhaust cover in place withthe attaching hardware.

Coat both sides of a NEW gasket withsealer, and then place it in position on thecylinder block. Install the bypass covers andsecure them in place with the attachinghardware. If a fuel pump is used, be surethe same bypass cover is installed in theposition from which it was removed.

Powerhead lower seal installed on the driveshaft.

Installing the intake bypass covers. One is alreadyin place.

REED BOX INSTALLA TION

Install the reed box and intake manifoldonto the cylinder block. A gasket is usuallyinstalled on both sides of the reed box. Thereeds and reed stops face inward toward thecylinder.

On 15 hp to 4-0 hp engines, a screw isinstalled in the center of the reed box intothe cylinder block. This center screw isinstalled first, then the intake manifold is installed and secured in place.

Installing the exhaust manifold.

Installing the gasket and reed plate to the power-head.

HEAD INSTALLATION

Place a NEW head gasket in place on thecylinder block. NEVER use automotive typehead gasket sealer. The chemicals in thesealer will cause electrolytic action and eatthe aluminum faster than you can get to thebank for money to buy a new cylinder block.

Install the head bolts and tighten themfingertight, then just a bit more. Tightenthe bolts alternately and evenly in threerounds to the torque value specified in theAppendix. On the first round tighten thebolts to 1/2 the total torque value, on thesecond round to 3/4 the total torque value,and to the full torque value on the third andfinal round.POWERHEAD INSTALLATION

Install the assembled power head to theexhaust housing and tighten the attachingbolts alternately and evenly in three roundsto the torque value specified in the Appen-dix. Tighten the bolts to 1/2 the torquevalue on the first round, to 3/4 the totaltorque value on the second round, and to thefull torque value on the third and finalround.

Installing the front gasket to the reed plate.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-41

Installing the intake manifold over the reed plate.

Install all powerhead accessories includ-ing the flywheel, carburetor, magneto,starter, etc. If any doubts or difficultiesare encountered, follow the procedures out-lined in the chapters covering the particularcomponent.

The complete outboard unit is now readyto be started and "broke-in" according tothe procedures outlined in the next section.3-16 BREAK-IN PROCEDURES

Mount the engine in a test tank or bodyof water.


Tightening the head bolts to the proper torquevalue.

3-42 POWERHEAD

As soon as the engine starts, CHECK tobe sure the water pump is operating. If thewater pump is operating, a water mist willbe discharged from the exhaust relief holesat the rear of the drive shaft housing.

During the first 10 hours of operation,DO NOT operate the engine at full throttle(except for VERY short periods). Performthe break-in as follows:

a- Operate at 1/2 throttle, approximate-ly 2500 to 3500 rpm, for 2 hours.

b- Operate at any speed after 2 hoursBUT NOT at sustained full throttle untilanother 8 hours of operation.

Testing a 35 horsepower unit with a pressure fueltank.

c- Mix gasoline and oil during the break-in period, total of 10 hours, at a ratio of50:!.

d- While the engine is operating duringthe initial period, check the fuel, exhaust,and water systems for leaks.

e- Refer to Chapter 5 for synchronizingprocedures.

After the test per iod, disconnect thefuel line. Remove the engine from the testtank. Install the engine hood.

Operating an engine in a test tank fOllowing anoverhaul.

Exploded drawing of a 1.5 hp powerhead -- 1968-70, with principle parts identified.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-43

AIR

E:rp~oded drawing of a 3.0 hp powerhead -- 1956 and the 4.0 hp powerhead -- 1969-70, with principle parts identified.The 4.0' hp unit uses a bearing and seal on the crankshaft instead of the oil slinger.

3-44 POWERHEAD

EXHAUSTCOVER

I LEVER

/

Exploded drawing of a 5.5 hp powerhead -- 1956-60, principle parts identified.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-45

GASKET

FUEL PUMP GASKET

Exploded drawing of a powerhead, with principle parts identified for the following units: 5.5 hp -- 1961-64; 5.0 hp--1965-68; 6.0 hp -- 1965-70. The 6.0 hp unit uses an oil slinger instead of the seal.

3-46 POWERHEAD

Exploded drawing of a 7.5 hp powerhead -- 1956-58, with principle parts identified.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-47

HEAD GASKET

RING

3-48 POWERHEAD

HEAD ,

BYPASSCOVER

Exploded drawing of a 10 hp powerhead -- 1956-63, with principle parts identified.

CYLINDER BLOCK 3-49

THERMOSTAT

EXHAUSTCOVER

The

Exploded drawing of the crankshaft and associated parts for the powerhead shown on the previous page.

3-50 POWERHEAD

4FUEL

4-1 INTRODUCTION

The carburetion and ignit ion principlesof two-cycle engine operation MUST be un-derstood in order to perform a proper tune-up on an outboard motor.

If you have any doubts concerning yourunderstanding of two-cycle engine opera-tion, it would be best to study the operationtheory section in the first portion of Chap-ter 3, before tackling any work on the fuelsystem.

4-2 GENERAL CARBURETIONINFORMA TION

The carburetor is merely a meteringdevice for mixing fuel and air in the properproportions for efficient engine operation.At idle speed, an outboard engine requires a

FLOAT

Fuel flow principle of a modern carburetor.

mixture of about 8 parts air to 1 part fuel.At high speed or under heavy duty service,the mixture may change to as much as 12parts air to 1 part fuel.

Float SystemsA small chamber in the carburetor

serves as a fuel reservoir. A float valveadmits fuel into the reservoir to replace thefuel consumed by the engine.

Fuel level in each chamber is extremelycritical and must be maintained accurately.Accuracy is obtained through proper adjust-ment of the float. This adjustment willprovide a balanced meter ing of fuel to eachcylinder at all speeds.

Following the fuel through its course,from the fuel tank to the combustion cham-ber of the cylinder, will provide an appreci-ation of exactly what is taking place. Inorder to start the engine, the fuel must bemoved from the tank to the carburetor by asqueeze bulb installed in the fuel line.

THROTTLEVALVE

VENTURI RING

Fuel flow through the venturi, showing principle andrelated parts controlling intake and outflow.

4-2 FUEL

Typical fuel line with squeeze bulb and quick-disconnect fitting at each end. These items may bepurchased as an assembled unit.

On models produced from 1956 through1959, the fuel tank is equipped with a handpressure pump. Operation of this pumpforces fuel to the carburetor for starting.After engine start, the pressure from onecylinder is fed through a hose to the tank.Therefore, the pressurized fuel tank main-tains a steady fuel supply to the enginewhile the engine is operating. This action isnecessary because the fuel pump does nothave sufficient pressure to draw fuel fromthe tank during cranking before the enginestarts.

Since 1960, most fuel systems are equip-ped with a manually-operated squeeze bulbin the line to transfer fuel from the tank tothe engine until the engine starts.

After the engine starts, the fuel passesthrough the fuel pump to the carburetor.All systems have some type of filter install-ed somewhere in the line between the tankand the carburetor, except the old-stylepressure fuel tank systems. With the pres-sure fuel tank arrangement, the filter isactually an intergral part of the fuel pickup

Obsolete pressure-type fuel tank used extensivelyuntil about 1958. The system was replaced by thesqueeze bulb arrangement shown at the top of thispage.

Two different type fuel pumps with the coversremoved to show the filter screen. These pumps cannotbe rebuilt. The only service possible is to clean thescreens with solvent and then blow them dry.

in the tank. Many units have a filter as anintegral part of the carburetor.

At the carburetor, the fuel passesthrough the inlet passage to the needle andseat, and then into the float chamber (reser-voir). A float in the chamber rides up anddown on the surface of the fuel. After fuelenters the chamber and the level rises to apredetermined point, a tang on the floatcloses the inlet needle and the flow ofentering the chamber is cutoff. When fuelleaves the chamber as the engine operates,the fuel level drops and the float tangallows the inlet needle to move off its seatand fuel once again enters the chamber. Inthis manner a constant reservoir of fuel ismaintained in the chamber to satisfy thedemands of the engine at all speeds.

Fuel pump installed on the engine. This type pumpmay be rebuilt, as explained in the text.

A fuel chamber vent hole is located nearthe top of the carburetor body to permitatmospheric pressure to act against the fuelin each chamber. This pressure assures anadequate fuel supply to the various operat-ing systems of the engine.

Air IFuel MixtureA suction effect is created each time

the piston moves upward in the cylinder.This suction draws air through the throat ofthe carburetor. A restriction in the throat,called a venturi, controls air velocity andhas the effect of reducing air pressure atthis point.

The difference in air pressures at thethroat and in the fuel chamber, causes thefuel to be pushed out metering jets extend-ing down into the fuel chamber. When thefuel leaves the jets, it mixes with the airpassing through the venturi. This fuel/airmixture should then be in the proper propor-tion for burning in the cylinder /s for maxi-mum engine performance.

In order to obtain the proper air/fuelmixture for all engine speeds, high- and low-speed needle valves are installed. On late-model engines, the high-speed needle valvewas replaced with a high-speed orifice.There is no adjustment with the orificetype. These needle valves are used tocompensate for changing atmospheric condi-tions. Probably over 50% of the enginescovered in this manual have an adjustablehigh- and low-speed needle valve.

FLOAT

Fuel [tow controlled by the float in a typical carbu-retor. The inlet valve is opened and closed by move-ment of the float in the carburetor bowl.

CARBURETION 4-3

ATMOSPHERIC AIR PRESSUREAir flow principle of a modern carburetor.

Engine operation at sea level comparedwith performance at high altitudes is quitenoticeable. A throttle valve controls thevolume of air/fuel mixture drawn into theengine. A cold engine requires a richer fuelmixture to start and during the brief periodit is warming to normal operating tempera-ture. A choke valve is placed ahead of themetering jets and venturi to provide theextra amount of air required for start andwhile the engine is cold.

Choke valve location in the carburetor venturi. Thechoke valve on most Johnson/Evinrude carburetors islocated in front of the venturi.

4-4 FUEL

When this choke valve is closed, a veryrich fuel mixture is drawn into the engine.

The throat of the carburetor is usuallyreferred to as the "barrel." Carburetorsinstalled on engines covered in this manualall have a single metering jet with a singlethrottle and choke plate. Single barrelcarbu retors are fed by one float and cham-ber.

4- 3 FUEL SYSTEM

The fuel system includes the fuel tank,fuel pump, fuel filters, carburetor, connect-ing lines, with a squeeze bulb, and theassociated parts to connect it all together.Regular maintenance of the fuel system toobtain maximum performance, is limited tochanging the fuel filter at regular intervalsand using FRESH fuel. Even with the highprice of fuel, removing gasoline that hasbeen standing unused over a long period oftime is still the easiest and least expensivepreventive maintenance possible.

In most cases this old gas, even withsome oil mixed with it, can be used withoutharmful effects in an automobile using regu-lar gasoline.

If a sudden increase in gas consumptionis noticed, or if the engine does not perform

Commercial additives, such as Sta-bii, may be usedto keep the fuel in the tank fresh. Under favorableconditions, such additives. will prevent the fuel from"souring" for up to twelve months.

Damaged piston, possibly caused by insufficient oilmixed with the fuel; using too-low an octane fuel; orusing fuel that had "soured" (stood too long without apreservative additive).

properly, a carburetor overhaul, includingboil-out, or replacement of the fuel pumpmay be required.

4-4 TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide an or-derly sequence of tests to pinpoint problemsin the system. If an engine has not beenused for some time and fuel has remained inthe carburetor, it is possible that varnishmay have formed. Such a condition couldbe the cause of hard starting, or completefailure of the engine to operate.

Fuel ProblemsMany times fuel system troubles are

caused by a plugged fuel filter, a defective

Fuel connector with the O-ring visible. These 0-rings have a relative short life and must be replaced atregular intervals, as detailed in the text.

fuel pump, or by a leak in the line from thefuel tank to the fuel pump. Aged fuel leftin the carburetor and the formation of var-nish could cause the needle to stick in itsseat and prevent fuel flow into the bowl. Adefective choke may also cause problems.WOULD YOU BELIEVE, a majority of start-ing troubles, which are traced to the fuelsystem, are the result of an empty fuel tankor aged fuel.

Fuel will begin to sour in three to fourmonths and will cause engine starting prob-lems. Therefore, leaving the motor settingidle with fuel in the carburetor, lines, ortank during the off-season, usually results invery serious problems. A fuel additive suchas Sta-Bil may be used to prevent gum fromforming during storage or prolonged idleperiods.

For many years there has been the wide-spread belief that simply shutting off thefuel at the tank and then running the engineuntil it stops is the proper procedure beforestoring the engine for any length of time.Right? WRONG.

First, it is NOT possible to remove allfuel in the carburetor by operating the en-gine until it stops. Considerable fuel is

Female fuel line connector ready to be mated withthe male portion of the connector.

TROUBLESHOOTING 4-5

trapped in the float chamber and otherpassages and in the line leading to thecarburetor. The ONLY guaranteed methodof removing ALL fuel is to take the time toremove the carburetor, and drain the fuel.

Secondly, if the engine is operated withthe fuel supply shut off until it stops thefuel and oil mixture inside the engine isremoved, leaving bearings, pistons, rings,and other parts without any protective lu-bricant.

Propel" procedure involves: Shutting offthe fuel supply at the tank; disconnectingthe fuel line at the tank; operating theengine until it begins to run ROUGH; thenstopping the engine, which will leave somefuel/oil mixture inside; and finally removingand draining the carburetor. By disconnect-ing the fuel supply, all SMALL passages arecleared of fuel even though some fuel is leftin the carburetor. A light oil should be putin combustion chamber as instructed in theOwners Manual. On some model carbure-tors, the high-speed orifice plug can beremoved to drain the fuel from the carbure-tor.

Choke ProblemsWhen the engine is hot, the fuel system

can cause starting problems. After a hotengine is shut down, the temperature insidethe fuel bowl may rise to 2000F and causethe fuel to actually boil. All carburetorsare vented to allow this pressure to escapeto the atmosphere. However, some of thefuel may percolate over the high-speed noz-zle.

Fouled spark plug, possibly caused by operator'shabit of over-choking or a malfunction holding thechoke closed. Either of these conditions delivered atoo-rich fuel mixture to the cylinder.

4-6 FUEL

If the choke should stick in the openposition, the engine will be hard to start. Ifthe choke should stick in the closed position,the engine will flood making it VERY diffi-cult to start.

In order for this raw fuel to vaporizeenough to burn, considerable air must beadded to lean out the mixture. Therefore,the only remedy is to remove the sparkplug/s; ground the leads; crank the enginethrough about 10 revolutions; clean theplugs; install the plugs again; and start theengine.

If the needle valve and seat assembly isleaking, an excessive amount of fuel mayenter the intake manifold in the followingmanner: After the engine is shut down, thepressure left in the fuel line will force fuelpast the leaking needle valve. This extrafuel will raise the level in the fuel bowl andcause fuel to overflow into the intake mani-fold.

A continuous overflow of fuel into theintake manifold may be due to a stickinginlet needle or to a defective float whichwould cause an extra high level of fuel inthe bowl and overflow into the intake mani-fold.

FUEL PUMP TESTS

CAUTION: Gasoline will be flowing in theengine area during this test. Therefore, guardagainst fire by grounding the high-tensionwire to prevent it from sparking.

CHOKE VALVE

The choke plays a most important role during enginestart and in controlling the amount of air entering thecarburetor, under various load conditions.

~Grounding the spark plug 'wires during fuel tests to

prevent an accidental spark from igniting fuel or fuelvapors. Exercise care when working on the fuel system.

Testing System with Squeeze BulbAn adequate safety method, is to ground

each spark plug lead. Disconnect the fuelline at the carburetor. Place a suitablecontainer over the end of the fuel line tocatch the fuel discharged. Insert a smallscrewdriver into the end of the line to openthe check valve, and then squeeze the prim-er bulb and observe if there is satisfactoryfuel flow from the line.

The fuel line quick-disconnect fitting at the engineseparated in preparation to making a fuel [lir» test.

If there is no fuel discharged from theline, the check valve in the squeeze bulbmay be defective, or there may be a breakor obstruction in the fuel line.

If there is a good fuel flow, then crankthe engine. If the fuel pump is operatingproperly, a healthy I stream of fuel shouldpulse out of the line.

Continue cranking the engine and catch-ing the fuel for about 15 pulses to determineif the amount of fuel decreases with eachpulse or maintains a constant amount. Adecrease in the discharge indicates a re-striction in the line. If the fuel line isplugged, the fuel stream may stop. If thereis fuel in the fuel tank but no fuel flows outthe fuel line while the engine is being crank-ed, the problem may be in one of severalareas:

1- Plugged fuel line from the fuel pumpto the carburetor.

2- Defective a-ring in fuel line connec-tor into the fuel tank.

3- Defective O-ring in fuel line connec-tor into the engine.

4- Defective fuel pump.5- The line from the fuel tank to the

fuel pump may be plugged; the line may beleaking air; or the squeeze bulb may bedefective.

6- Defective fuel tank.7- If the engine does not start even

though there is adequate fuel flow from thefuel line, the fuel inlet needle valve and theseat may be gummed together and preventadequate fuel flow.

Fuel line connection at the carburetor on a 9.5horsepower engine.

TROUBLESHOOTING 4-7

Fuel connector with the O-ring visible. These 0-rings have a relative short life and may be the source offuel problems. The a-rings should be replaced on aregular basis.

FUEL LINE TEST

On most installations, the fuel line isprovided with quick-disconnect fittings atthe tank and at the engine. If there isreason to believe the problem is at thequick-disconnects, the hose ends can be re-placed as an assembly, or new a-rings maybe installed. A supply of new a-rings

Parts in a squeeze bulb replacement kit include theSQueeze bulb, two check valves, and two tie straps tosecure the bulb in the line.

4-8 FUEL

A typical squeeze bulb with the directional arrowclearly visible. The squueze bulb must be installed withthe arrow pointing in the direction of fuel flow, towardthe engine.

should be carried on board for use in isolat-ed areas where a marine store is not avail-able. For a small additional expense, theentire fuel line can be replaced and elimi-nate this entire area as a problem source formany future seasons.

The primer squeeze bulb can be replacedin a short time. A squeeze bulb assembly,complete with the check valves installed,may be obtained from the local OMC dealer.

An arrow is clearly visible on thesqueeze bulb to indicate the direction offuel flow. The squeeze bulb MUST be instal-led correctly in the line because the checkvalves in each end of the bulb will allow fuelto flow in ONLY one direction. Therefore,if the squeeze bulb should be installed back-wards, in a moment of haste to get the jobdone, fuel will not reach the carburetor.

To replace the bulb, first unsnap theclamps on the hose at each end of the bulb.Next, pull the hose out of the check valvesat each end of the bulb. New clamps areincluded with a new squeeze bulb.

If the fuel line has been exposed toconsiderable sunlight, it may have becomehardened, causing difficulty in working itover the check valve. To remedy this

Obsolete pressure-type fuel tank. A manually-operated primer pump on the fuel tank is worked topump fuel to the engine. After engine start, airpressure forces fuel from the tank to the engine.

situation, simply immerse the ends of thehose in boiling water for a few minutes tosoften the rubber. The hose will then sliponto the check valve without further prob-lems. After the lines on both sides havebeen installed, snap the camps in place tosecure the line. Check a second time to besure the arrow is pointing in the fuel flowdirection, TOWARDS the engine.

TESTING SYSTEM WITH PRESSURE TANK

Some early model small engines produc-ed by OMC used a type of fuel systemutilizing two hoses connected to the engine.To prime this system, a primer pump on thefuel tank, is worked to manually pump fuelto the engine. Working this pump does NOTpressurize the tank, all that is accomplishedis to deliver fuel to the carburetor. Oncethe engine starts, air is pumped through thesecond hose and the fuel tank is pressurizedto maintain a steady fuel supply to thecarburetor. The filler cap on the fuel tankMUST be securely in place for this system tofunction properly.

A release valve installed in the fuel tankwill automatically release air if the pressureshould build above a predetermined psi rat-ing.

A fuel pump may be installed on anyengine equipped with this type of pressuresystem. Replacement of these pressuretanks has become quite expensive, there-fore, the fuel pump option may be worthconsidering instead of replacing the pressuretank.

To install a fuel pump it is first neces-sary to remove the intake bypass coverplate alongside the upper or lower cylinder.

AIRPRESSURE

/.1 11

I

Next, drill the appropriate size hole for asuitable fitting to pickup the cylinder vacu-um. Install the cover plate with the fi ttingin place. Mount the fuel pump in a conven-ient location, and then connect the vacuumhose. Plug the hole in the intake manifoldjust below the carburetor. Purchase a regu-lar fuel tank. Because the new system willonly have one hose, a new quick-disconnect fi tting must also be purchased and and con-nected to the engine.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Observe the stamped markings on thepressure-type fuel tank adjacent to eachfi tting; one for air and the other for fuel.Also, observe the rib on one hose runningthe full length from the tank to the engine.This rib will help to identify the same hoseat the tank and the engine.

With the fuel tank fill cap securely clos-ed, insert a screwdriver into the fuel linequick-disconnect at the engine to hold thecheck valve open. Now, work the primerpump on the fuel tank and fuel should squirtout the quick-disconnect because the screw-dr iver is holding the check valve open.

If fuel is not present at the fitting, thepressure fuel tank primer pump or the checkvalve in the fuel pickup at the bottom of thefuel tank may be defective.

If the engine runs for short periods andthen shuts down from lack of fuel, theproblem may be lack of air pressure in thetank. To check for air pressure, after theengine has run for just a short period, openthe fill cap very slightly. A hissing sound

Pressure-type fuel tank with the fuel line (left), andair line (right), connected. Notice the rib on the fuelhose which extends the full length to the engine.

TROUBLESHOOTING 4-9

Back side of the double fuel/air connector. In thisphotograph, the air line is on the left and the fuel onthe right.

indicating escaping air should be heard.Lack of air may be caused by defective 0-rings at the connectors, or because thecheck valve in the intake manifold is not properly seated.

Integral Fuel Tank SystemOn small engines equipped with an inte-

gral fuel tank above the flywheel, or else-where on the engine, the filter in the tankmay be plugged. To check the fuel flow,disconnect the fuel line at the carburetorand fuel should flow from the line if theshut-off valve is open. If fuel is not pres-ent, the usual cause is a plugged filter in thefuel tank. It is very difficult to determineif a porcelain-type fil ter is plugged. Thegeneral appearance that the filter is satis-factory may be a false indication. There-fore, if the filter is suspected, the best

Pressure-type fuel tank with the air and fuel linesattached through a double connector. The fill cap mustbe tightly closed for the system to operate properly.

4-10 FUEL

VENT

I

FILTER

Sectional view of a engine mounted fuel tank show-ing the filter inside the tank and the external shut-offvalve.

remedy is replacement. The cost is verymodest and this one area is thus eliminatedas a problem source.

Would you believe, many times lack offuel at the carburetor is caused because thevent on the fuel tank was not opened.

To remove the filter, first remove thefuel tank filler cap, turn the engine upsidedown and drain the tank. Next, disconnectthe fuel line to the carburetor. Remove thefuel shut-off valve. In most cases, the filterwill remain with the valve and can be separ-ated from the valve by removing the fitting.If the fitting and filter do not remain withthe valve when it is removed, then removethe fi tting and filter from the tank.

INSULATOR-:CRACK

SHELL./

ADJUSTMENT/

CENTERELECTRODE

Cross-section view of a spark plug showing theprinciple parts with important comments for satisfac-tory service.

A set of points unfit for service due to oxidation.

ROUGH ENGINE IDLE

If an engine does not idle smoothly, themost reasonable approach to the problem isto perform a tune-up to eliminate suchareas as: defective points; faulty sparkplugs; and synchronization out of adjust-ment.

Other problems that can prevent an en-gine from running smoothly include: An airleak in the intake manifold; uneven com-pression between the cylinders; and stickyor broken reeds.

Of course any problem in the carburetoraffecting the air/fuel mixture will also pre-vent the engine from operating smoothly atidle speed. These problems usually include:Too high a fuel level in the bowl; a heavyfloat; leaking needle valve and seat; defec-tive automatic choke; and improper idle andhigh-speed needle valve adjustments.

"Sour" fuel (fuel left in a tank without apreservative additive) will cause an engineto run rough and idle with great difficulty.

Inspection of the spark plugs should become a "first"whenever the engine failS to perform properly.

Carburetor installed on most 35 hp and 40 hpengines.

EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION

Excessive fuel consumption can resultfrom one of three conditions, or a combina-tion of all three.

1- Inefficient engine operation.2- Damaged condition of the hull, in-

cluding excessive marine growth. 3- Poor boating habits of the operator.If the fuel consumption suddenly increas-

es over what could be considered normal,then the cause can probably be attr ibuted tothe engine or boat and not the operator.

Marine growth on the hull can have avery marked effect on boat performance.This is why sail boats always try to have ahaul-out as close to race time as possible.

Marine growth allowed to accumulate on the lowerunit will create "drag" and seriously hamper boat per-formance, and corrode the metal if it is not removed.

TROUBLESHOOTING 4-11

A clean engine reflecting the owners "pride ofownership", and good care.

While you are checking the bottom takenote of the propeller condition. A bentblade or other damage will definitely causepoor boat performance.

If the hull and propeller are in goodshape, then check the fuel system for possi-ble leaks. Check the line between the fuelpump and the carburetor while the engine isrunning and the line between the fuel tankand the pump when the engine is not run-ning. A leak between the tank and the pumpmany times will not appear when the engineis operating, because the suction created bythe pump drawing fuel will not allow thefuel to leak. Once the engine is turned offand the suction no longer exists, fuel maybegin to leak.

If a minor tune-up has been performedand the spark plugs, points, and synchroniza-tion are properly adjusted, then the problemmost likely is in the carburetor, indicatingan overhaul is in order. Check for leaks at

A corroded hub on a small engine propeller. Re-placem ent of this propeller will be less expensive thanthe cost of a rebuild.

4-12 FUEL

the needle valve and seat. Use extra carewhen making any adjustments affecting thefuel consumption, such as the float level orautomatic choke.

ENGINE SURGE

If the engine operates as if the load onthe boat is being constantly increased anddecreased, even though an attempt is beingmade to hold a constant engine speed, theproblem can most likely be attributed to thefuel pump.

Operational description and service pro-cedures for the fuel pump are given inSection 4-9.

4-5 JOHNSON/EVINRUDE CARBURETORS

This section provides complete detailedprocedures for removal, disassembly, clean-ing and inspecting, assembling includingbench adjustments, installation, and operat-ing adjustments for the three OMC carbu-retors installed on engines covered in thismanual. The Type I carburetor is installedon the 1-1/2 to 28 hp engines; the Type II onthe 30 to 40 hp models; and the Type IIIcarburetor is used on the 9-1/2 hp model.The carburetors are further identified bythe type of choke system used. One has amanual choke; the second, a heat and elec-tric combination choke; and the third has awater choke. The following table lists thetypes of carburetors, the horsepower andmodel engines equipped with each.

CARBURETOR INSTALLATIONS

Type ISingle barrel, front draft,with adjustable low-speed

and high-speed needle valves.

1.5 hp3.0 hp5.0 hp5.5 hp

1968-701956-621965-681959-63

5.5 hp10 hp18 hp28 hp

1959-631962-631957-631962-64


and high-speed needle valve,and filter bowl attached to carburetor.

5.5 hp7.5 hp

1956-581956-58

10 hp15 hp

1956-611956


needle valve.High-speed is fixed orifice

in float bowl.

3.0 hp5.5 hp6.0 ho

1963-681964

1965-70

18 hp20 hp

1964-681966-68


needle valve with special packing.High-speed is fixed or ifice

in float bowl.

18 hp20 hp

25 he 1969-701969-701969-70

Type IISingle barrel, front draft,with adjustable low-speed

and high-speed needle valves.

30 hp33 hp

35 hp40 hp

1957-591960

19561965-70

Type II Single barrel, front draft,with adjustable low-speed

needle val ve,High-speed is fixed or ifice

in floa t bow 1.

40 hp 1964-1970

Type 01Single barrel, down draft,with adjustable low-speed

needle valve.High-speed is fixed orifice

in float bowl.

9.5 hp 1964-70

See Section 4-6 for service details foreach choke systems.

For synchronizing adjustments with theignition system, see Chapter 5.

4-6 TYPE I CARBURETOR

REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLING

1- On engines using an electric crankingmotor, remove the battery leads from thebattery terminals. Disconnect the fuel linefrom the engine or from the fuel tank at thequick-disconnect fitting.

2- Remove the hood assembly from theengine. Remove the choke and throttlelinkage to the carburetor.

3- Remove the fuel line from the car-buretor. This may be accomplished by ei-ther one of two methods: On engines equip-ped with a self-contained fuel tank, closethe fuel shut-off valve, located just belowthe tank. Disconnect both ends, and thenremove the copper fuel line between theshut-off valve and the carburetor.

4- On engines utilizing a separate fueltank, remove the tie-strap or clamp secur-ing the rubber hose connecting the fuelconnector to the carburetor. Remove the

J/E CARBURETORS 4-13

FilTER

SHUTOFFVALVE

rubber hose from the carburetor. Removethe nuts securing the carburetor to thecrankcase. The carburetor may have tomoved slightly forward as the nuts are loos-ened in order to obtain clearance for thenuts to clear the studs. After the nuts areclear, lift the carburetor from the intakemanifold.

5- Remove and DISCARD the gasketfrom the intake manifold or the carburetor,if the gasket adhered to the carburetorwhen it was removed. A new gasket isincluded in a carburetor repair kit.

4-14 FUEL

6- Observe how both the low-speed nee-dle valve (the top one), and the high-speedneedle valve (the bottom one), are securedin the carburetor body with a packingsleeve. Use a 7/16" box-end wrench andremove each sleeve. After the sleeves areremoved, turn each needle valve counter-clockwise until they are free of the carbu-retor body. If the carburetor being serviceddoes not have a high-speed needle valve,then it is equipped with a high-speed orificeand covered with a plug in approximatelythe same location in the carburetor as thehigh-speed needle valve. Therefore, if thereis a plug, instead of the high-speed needlevalve, remove the plug.

7- Use a small screwdriver, and removethe packing from the needle valve cavitiesin the carburetor body.

PACKING

8- If installed, remove the high-speedor ifice, using the proper size screwdriver.

9- Turn the carburetor upside down. If afilter bowl assembly is installed, loosen thehinge and swing it to one side. Remove theglass bowl.

10- Back off the flat knurled washer, andthen remove the gasket and filter frominside the float bowl.

11- Remove the five attaching screws,and then lift the bowl free of the carbure-tor.

12- Remove the hinge pin and lift thefloat from the carburetor bowl cavity. Asthe float is lifted from the carburetor, ob-serve the small spring attached to the nee-dle, The needle will come out with the floatassembly. Remove the needle seat from thecarburetor.

GOOD WORDSFurther disassembly of the carburetor

is not necessary. The nozzle in the centerof the carburetor does NOT have to beremoved in order to properly clean thecarburetor. However, the nozzle can beremoved with a screwdriver if it is damagedand needs to be replaced.


Gasket used between the bowl and the carburetorshowing the opening to allow fuel to leave the bowl andenter the idle passage of the carburetor.


NEVER dip rubber parts, plastic parts,diaphragms, or pump plungers in carburetorcleaner. These parts should be cleanedONLY in solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air.

Place all metal parts in a screen-typetray and dip them in carburetor cleaneruntil they appear completely dean, thenblow thern dry with compressed air.

Blowout all passages in the castingswith compressed air. Check all parts andpassages to be sure they are not clogged orcontain any deposits. NEVER use a piece ofwire or any type of pointed instrument toclean drilled passages or calibrated holes ina carburetor.

GOOD

Carburetor idle adjustment screws. The top screwis worn and unfit for service. The bottom screw is new.

4-16 FUEL

GOOD WORN

WORN

GOOI!)

Cross-section of the needle and seat arrangement onJohnsori/Evinrude carburetors, showing a worn and newneedle for comparison.

Move the throttle shaft back-and-forthto check for wear. If the shaft appears tobe too loose, replace the complete throttlebody because individual replacement partsare NOT available.

Inspect the main body, airborn, and ven-turi duster gasket surfaces for cracks andburrs which might cause a leak. Check thefloat for deterioration. Check to be surethe float spring has not been stretched. Ifany part of the float is damaged, the unitmust be replaced. Check the float armneedle contacting surface and replace thefloat if this surface has a groove worn in it.

Inspect the tapered section of the idleadjusting needles and replace any that havedeveloped a groove.

If a high-speed or if ice is installed on thecarburetor being serviced, check the orificefor cleanliness. The orifice has a stampednumber. This number represents a drill size.Check the orifice with the shank of theproper size drill to verify the proper orificeis used. The correct size orifice for theengine and carburetor being serviced may beobtained from the local OMC dealer.

Most of the parts that should be replacedduring a carburetor overhaul are included inoverhaul kits available from your local ma-rine dealer. One of these kits will contain amatched fuel inlet needle and seat. Thiscombination should be replaced each timethe carburetor is disassembled as a precau-tion against leakage.

INLETNEEDLE

FLOAT

Parts necessary to properly rebuild a carburetor areincluded in a JohnsonjEvinrude repair kit.

ASSEMBLING TYPE I CARBURETOR

13- Install a NEW inlet nozzle seat witha NEW gasket into the carburetor. Slide aNEW gasket down over the inlet nozzle ontothe surface of the carburetor.

14- Attach a NEW inlet needle onto thespring included in the carburetor repair kit,


LEAF

AIRSILENCER

Exploded vtew of a Type I carburetor installed on small Johnson/Evinrude engines. This carburetor is used with theold style pressure-type fuel tank. Therefore, the filter bowl is incorporated in the carburetor.

4-18 FUEL

Exploded view of a Type I carburetor installed on small Johnson/Evinrude engines equipped with the fuel tankattached to the engine. The filter on these units is in the tank.

and slip the spring over the edge of thefloat, as shown. Apply just a drop of oil tothe inlet needle and then lower the needleinto the seat. Install a NEW hinge pinincluded in the kit.

15- Hold the carburetor in a horizontalposition, as shown, and observe the attitudeof the float. The float must be level(parallel) with the surface of the carburetor.If the float is not level, use a pair of needle-nose pliers and CAREFULLY bend the floattab SQUARELY until the float is in thecorrect position (level with the carburetor).Check to be sure the float is square with thecarburetor cavity (one side is not furtheraway than the other).

16- Place the bowl gasket in position onthe carburetor, and then position the bowlon top of the gasket. Secure the bowl inplace with the five screws.

FLOAT-:


17- If a filter is used in the float bowl,slip the filter down over the center post inthe bowl. Slide the gasket into place infloat bowl. Install and tighten the nutsecu ring the filter in place.

18- Place the glass float bowl in positionon top of the gasket. Swing the hinge intoplace and secure it with the thumb nut.

19- Insert three new packing washersinto the high-speed and low-speed cavities.

FilTERNUT

FilTER

4-20 FUEL

New type packing used for the low-speed needlevalve. A packing nut is not used to hold the needle inadjustment.

20- Place a white plastic washer intothe high- and low-speed cavities. If a high-speed orifice is used, install the orifice withthe proper size screwdirver until the orificejust BARELY seats. Install a new gasket onthe orifice plug, and then the plug.

21- Start the two sleeve nuts into thecarburetor, but ONLY far enough to allowthe needle valves to be installed.

22- Install the high-speed needle valveinto the bottom cavity by rotating itCLOCKWISE. Allow the needle valve tosea t LIGHTLY, then back it out (COUNTER-CLOCKWISE) 3/4 turn. Now, tighten thesleeve nut only until it is difficult to turnthe needle valve by hand.

23- Install the low-speed needle valveinto the upper cavity in the same manner asthe high-speed needle valve in Step 22.After the valve is seated LIGHTLY, back itcut (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) 1-1/2 turns.Now, tighten the packing nut until there isdrag on the needle valve, but the valve maystill be rotated by hand, but with just alittle difficulty.

24- Install the high-speed orifice, if oneis used, into the float bowl. ALWAYS taketime to use the proper size screwdr iver toprevent damaging the orifice. Tighten theorifice only until it just seats.

25- Install the high-speed orifice plugusing a NEW gasket. Tighten the plugsecurely.

26- Check to be sure the surface of theintake manifold is clean and free of any oldgasket material. Place a NEW gasket inposition on the intake manifold.

27- Connect the fuel line to the carbu-retor, or on engines equipped with a self-contained fuel tank, replace the line be-tween the shut-off valve and the carburetor.

28- Slide the carburetor over the intakemanifold mounting studs, and then secure itin place with the two nuts. Tighten the nutsAL TERNA TEL Y to avoid warping the carbu-retor body.


29- Connect the manual choke lever andthe front cover onto the carburetor. Threadthe knobs onto the low- and high-speedneedle valves.

4-22 FUEL

30- Check the synchronization of thefuel and ignition systems according to theprocedures outlined in Chapter 5. Mount theengine in a body of water. Connect the fuelline to a fuel source. Prime the engine. Ifthe engine is equipped with a self-containedfuel tank, open the fuel shut-off valve andallow the carburetor to fill with fuel.


31- Start the engine and allow it towarm to operating temperature. Shift theengine into FORWARD gear. Adjust thelow-speed idle by turning the low-speed nee-dle valve CLOCKWISE until the engine be-gins to misfire or the rpm drops noticeably.From this point, rotate the needle valveCOUNTERCLOCK\\qSE until the engine isoperating at the highest rpm. Advance thethrottle to the wide open position (WOT).Adjust the high-speed by rotating the high-speed needle valve CLOCKWISE until thenumber of rpm begins to drop, then rotatethe high-speed valve COUNTERCLOCK-WISE until the highest rpm is reached. Re-turn the throttle to idle speed. Adjust theidle speed a second time as described earlierin this step. Again, advance the throttle tothe WOT position and check the high-speedadjustment. Return the engine to idlespeed. If the engine coughs and operates as

if the fuel is too lean, but the idle and high-speed adjustments have been correctlymade, then recheck the synchronization be-tween the fuel and ignition systems. Now,shut off the fuel supply and allow the engineto run until it first begins to misfire fromlack of fuel. Retard the spark and shut theengine down. Tighten the sleeve nut secure-ly to prevent the needle valves from chang-ing position through engine vibration whileit is operating, but still allow the needlevalves to be adjusted by hand using the knobon the end of the valve.

32- The idle stop is located on the portside of the engine, on the outside of thecowling. Adjust the nylon screw inward oroutward to obtain the desired idle speed.

4-7 CHOKE SYSTEM SERVICE

FIRST THESE WORDSJohnson/Evinrude carburetors may be

identified by the type of choke system used.One has a manual choke; the second, a heatand electr ic combination choke; and thethird has a water choke. Detailed instruc-tions will be given in this section for re-moval of the three different types of chokesystems. The following section providesprocedures for rebuilding the carburetors.The next section covers installation of thechoke systems to the carburetor.

The larger engines covered in this man-ual (25 hp~thru ito hp) are equipped withelectric starter motors and a generator sys-tem. In most cases, these items must bemoved out of the way to provide clearancefor the carburetor. HOWEVER, they needonly be moved and not removed. Therefore,only attaching hardware need be removed inorder to move the item for carburetorclearance. Electrical connections may beleft intact. 'When working on an engineequipped with a combination heat/ electrical choke system, the heat tube between theexhaust manifold and the carburetor mustbe re moved BEFORE the starter motor canbe moved.

EACH carburetor has only one chokesystem installed. Perform one of the fol-lowing three procedures depending on thechoke system installed on the carburetor ofthe engine being serviced.

CHOKE SYSTEM 4-23

HEA T/ELECTRIC CHOKE - REMOVAL

1- Observe the compression nut underthe plate securing the heat tube to theexhaust manifold. Loosen the nut and slideit back on the heat tube. At the other endof the heat tube is another compression nutsecuring the tube in the choke chamber ofthe carburetor. Loosen the compression nutand slide it back on the tube. Remove theheat tube from the engine.

2- Disconnect the fuel line at the carbu-retor. Remove the two nuts from the inletmanifold mounting studs and remove thecarburetor. It may be necessary to shift thecarburetor slightly as the nuts are loosenedin order to obtain clearance for the nuts tobe removed from the studs.

3- Observe the marks on the cover plateand on the base. Notice the cover plate hasonly one mark, but the base has severalmarks. Identify the relationship of thecover plate and the marks on the base toensure the cover plate will be installed backinto its original position. Remove the threescrews securing the cover plate to the chokebase.

4- Lift the cover and gasket from thechoke base. Observe the cover has a springon the inside. This spring performs a veryimportant role in the choke system. As theheat from the exhaust manifold moves

4-24 FUEL

through the tube and around the spring, thespring expands and releases its pressure onthe choke. Also notice how the spring isattached to the choke lever. The spring isattached to a plunger which actuates theelectr ical part of the choke system.

5- Remove the two screws securing theelectr ic choke solenoid to the carburetor.Remove the solenoid and take care to retainthe spring inside the solenoid. Remove thechoke solenoid gasket.

LEVER SPRING

6- Using a pair of needle-nose pliers,reach inside the choke base and remove thespring from the choke lever. Lower thespring and plunger from the carburetor.Further disassembly of the combinationheat/electrical choke is not necessary. Ifthe choke is to be assembled without re-building the carburetor, proceed directly toSection 4-8. If the carburetor is to berebuilt at this time, proceed to Section 4-7.

SPRING

ALL ELECTRIC CHOKE - REMOVAL

The electric choke is mounted on thebottom side of the carburetor.

1- Disconnect the electrical wire fromthe choke solenoid. Disconnect the fuel linefrom the carburetor. Remove the two nutssecuring the carburetor to the intake mani-fold. Lift the choke from the engine.Scribe a mark on the side of the bracket toensure the choke solenoid will be installed inits orginal position.

2- Remove the cotter key, washers, andpin from the choke plunger and pin.

3- Remove the two screws securing theclamp to the carburetor. Remove the chokesolenoid from the carburetor. The chokesolenoid CANNOT be serviced. The bootshould be in good condition. It may bere moved by sliding it off the solenoid. Ob-serve the two washers and spring under theboot. Take care not to lose these threeitems. Clean the solenoid, and then slidethe boot back in place. The solenoid is thenready to be installed.

4- Remove the cotter pins from eachend of the rod extending from the uppersection to the lower section of the carbure-tor, and remove the rod. This rod works thechoke in the upper body of the carburetorwhen the electric choke is activated. Fur-ther disassembly of the all electric choke is

ALL ELECTRICCHOKE 4-25

4-26 FUEL

not necessary. If the choke is to be assem-bled without rebuilding the carburetor, pro-ceed directly to Section 4-8. If the carbure-tor is to be rebuilt at this time, proceed toSection 4-7.

WATER CHOKE - REMOVAL

An understanding of exactly how thewater choke functions is essential to ensurethe service procedures are properly per-formed. Hot water from the engine isallowed to circulate inside a chamber of thechoke. As the hot water heats the spring,the metal expands and the spring releavesits tension on the choke. Once the tensionis released, the choke opens.

The hot circulating water is routed tothe port side of the engine and is dischargedinto the exhaust chamber. An additionalfeature is included in the automatic chokeassembly. A spring-loaded diaphragm andplunger assembly, activated by intake mani-fold pressure, closes the choke the instantthe engine is shut down, whether the engineis hot or cold. The plunger will release itshold on the choke only when the engine isagain started. At low manifold pressure,with the engine operating, the choke isreleased to open the choke and the thermal(water) system is in control. This system opera tes independently of the water chokesystem., A check valve and orifice is installed in

the water system to prevent flooding of the

diaphragm when the manifold pressure fluc-tuates during slow speed operation. A punc-ture, or other damage, to the diaphragm willcause the choke to be held in the closedposition at all times, when the vacuum sys-tem is in the automatic position. However,the choke can still be opened by using themanual lever.

During installation of the carburetor,considerable attention must be exercised toinstall the proper hose to the correct fit-ting. If the hoses are crossed, water will bedischarged into the intake manifold and theengine, resulting in a series of horrendous problems. This water will then be releasedfrom the cylinder through the spark plugopenings when the spark plugs are removedand the engine is cranked in an effort tostart it.

THEREFORE, take time to identify thehoses to ensure each is correctly connectedto the proper carburetor fitting.

1- Remove the hoses connected to thechoke, one from the top, and the other twofrom the bottom. The hose connected tothe bottom of the choke and closest to thecarburetor is the water outlet line. Theother hose on the bottom is the vacuum line.The hose connected to the top of the chokeis the water inlet line. Disconnect the fuelline at the carburetor. Remove the twonuts securing the carburetor to the intakemanifold, and then remove the carburetor.

HARKS

2- Observe the mark on the choke coverand a matching mark on the choke base.These marks must be aligned in the sameposition when the choke is assembled to thecarburetor.

3- Remove the three screws securingthe choke cover to the base. Lift the coverfrom the carburetor and take notice of thespring on the inside of the cover. Thisspring releaves pressure on the choke asheated hot water from the engine circulatesthrough the chamber.

4- After the cover has been removed, itis not necessary to remove the choke basefrom the carburetor. Remove the fourscrews securing the choke head, and thenremove the head.

5- Notice the diaphragm. Under thediaphragm is a spring. Remove the dia-phragm and spring from the choke head.

SPRING

WATER CHOKE 4-27

6- Remove the small valve and seat lo-cated under the spring.

Further disassembly of the water chokevalve is not necessary. If the choke is to beassembled without rebuilding the carbure-tor, proceed directly to Section 4-8. If thecarburetor is to be rebuilt at this time,proceed to Section 1+-7.

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ADJUSTINGKNOB

4-8 TYPE n CARBURETOR

DISASSEMBLING

The following steps outline service pro-cedures for the Type II carburetor. Exceptfor the choke system, this carburetor is verysimilar to the Type I carburetors covered inthe previous section.

1- Remove the knobs from the low-speed needle valve. This is accomplished by holding the knob firmly and at the sametime backing out the retaining screw fromthe center of the knob. Once the screw isremoved, the knob may be pulled free of the

needle valve. If the carburetor being ser-viced has a front shield installed, removethe top screw.

2- Remove the two screws on the frontside of the carburetor cover. Remove thecover from the front of the carburetor.

3- Remove the small screen and gasket.4- Loosen the packing nut and rotate the

low-speed needle valve counterclockwise toremove it from the carburetor. After theneedle valve has been removed, back-outthe packing nut.

5- The low-speed needle valve has aremovable sleeve. To remove this sleeve,use an OLD needle valve as follows: Firstscrew the old valve into the sleeve. Nextclamp the needle valve in a vise. Now, tapon the carburetor and remove the packingand sleeve. The packing is installed in frontof the sleeve.

6- Remove the 7/16" nut from the bowlat the bottom of the carburetor. Using theproper size screwdriver, remove the high-speed needle valve from the bowl.

GOOD WORDS:The following steps are to be performed

if the carburetor being serviced has an ad-justable high-speed needle valve.

7- Loosen the packing nut securing thehigh-speed needle valve to the carburetorbowl. Turn the high-speed needle valveCOUNTERCLOCKWISE until it is free, thenremove it from the carburetor bowl. Re-move the carburetor flange nut from thebowl.

8- With a small screwdriver, reach intothe bowl cavity and remove the packingglands from the carburetor.

9- Remove the four screws securing thebowl to the carburetor, and then remove the bowl.

TYPE II CARBURETOR 4-29

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10- If the carburetor has an attachingfuel filter bowl, turn the locking disc hold-ing the glass bowl to the carburetor COUN-TERCLOCKWISE, and then move the hangerclear of the bowl. Remove the bowl.

11- Remove the center screw, washer,filter, and gasket from the carburetor.

12- Remove the bowl gasket from thecarburetor. Remove the gasket from thehigh-speed nozzle. Remove the high-speednozzle from the carburetor using the propersize screwdriver to prevent possible damageto the nozzle. If difficulty is experiencedin removing the high-speed nozzle, leave itin place. When the carburetor is immersedin the carburetor cleaner the high-speednozzle will be cleaned sui table for further ser vice.

13- Work the hinge pin free of the floatand then remove the float.

14- Remove the inlet needle valve fromthe seat. Remove the seat and gasket fromthe carburetor.

Further disassembly of the carburetor isnot necessary.

A worn needle valve unfit for further service.


NEVER dip rubber parts, plastic parts,diaphragms, or pump plungers in carburetorcleaner. These parts should be cleanedONLY in solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air.

Place all metal parts in a screen-typetray and dip them in carburetor cleaneruntil they appear completely dean, thenblow them dry with compressed air.

Blowout all passages in the castingswith compressed air. Check all of the parts


GOOD

Compare this new needle valve with the worn needleto the left.

and passages to be sure they are not doggedor contain any deposits. NEVER use a pieceof wire or any type of pointed instrument todean drilled passages or calibrated holes ina carburetor.

fviove the throttle shaft back-and-forthto check for wear. If the shaft appears tobe too loose, replace the complete throttlebody because individual replacement partsare NOT available.

Inspect the main body, airhor n, and ven-turi duster gasket surfaces for cracks and

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GOOD

WORN

GOODWORN

Cross-section drmving to allow comparison of a newneedle and seat (left), with one badly worn (right).

Comparison of a worn and new needle valve. Thetop needle is unfit for further service.

If a high-speed orifice is installed on thecarburetor being serviced, check the orificefor cleanliness. The orifice has a stamped

burrs which might cause a leak. Check thefloat for deterioration. Check to be surethe float spring has not been stretched. Ifany part of the float is damaged, the unitmust be replaced. Check the float armneedle contacting surface and replace thefloat if this surface has a groove worn in it.

Inspect the tapered section of the idleand high-speed adjusting needles and replaceany that have developed a groove.

ELECTRIC CHOKEASSEMBLY

Exploded view of a Type II carburetor installed on larger horsepower engines equipped with the all-electric choke.

number. This number represents a drill size.Check the orifice with the shank of theproper size drill to verify the proper orificeis used. The local Otl/l C dealer will be ableto provide the correct size or ifice for theengine and carburetor being serviced.

Most parts that should be replaced dur-ing a carburetor overhaul are included inoverhaul kits. These kits are available fromyour local marine dealer. One of these kitswill contain a matched fuel inlet needle andseat. This combination should be replacedeach time the carburetor is disassembled asa precaution against leakage.

ASSEMBLING TYPE II CARBURETOR

Purchase of a carburetor repair kit isalmost a must when servicing this unit. All parts required for a complete rebuild, in-cluding the necessary gaskets, are contained


In the kit. !V;ost repair kits contain moreparts and gaskets than are needed becausethe kit may be used to service a wide rangeof carburetor models.

1- Install the NEW inlet seat and gasketinto the carburetor base. Take care to usethe proper size screwdriver as a precautionagainst damaging the inside surface of thethe seat. Apply just a drop of oil into theseat, to prevent the needle from stickingwhen it is installed. Insert the inlet needlevalve into the seat.

2- Install the NEW float and hinge pinfrom the repair kit with the tang of thefloat facing DOWNWARD toward the insideof the carburetor.

3- If the inlet nozzle was removed, in-stall the nozzle into the center of thecarburetor and secure it tightly with theproper size screwdriver. Exercise care notto burr the edges of the nozzle. The end of

Exploded view of a Type IIcarburetor installed on larger horsepower engines equipped 'with Q hot water choke.

4-34 FUEL

the nozzle seats in the bowl of the carbure-tor and burrs on the nozzle will result infuel leakage, or the bowl will NOT fit prop-er ly onto the carburetor.

4- Install a NEW gasket over the nozzle.Force the gasket down onto the carburetorstem.

5- Place a NEW gasket in position on thethe carburetor base. NEVER attempt toinstall a used gasket at this location. As thegasket is used, the low-speed hole has atendancy to shrink slightly and prevent suf-ficient fuel f rom passing through. There-fore, the need for installation of a newgasket each time the carburetor is serviced.


6- If the carbureotor being serviced hasa filter bowl attached to the carburetor,install a NEW filter bowl gasket, NEW filter,washer and screw at this time.

7- Place the fitler bowl over the filterand secure it in place with the clamp.

S- Hold the carburetor in a horizontalposition, as shown, and observe the attitude of the float. The float must be level(par rallel) with the surface of the carburet-or. If the float is not level, use a pair ofneedle-nose pliers and CAREFULLY bendthe foat tab SQUARELY until the float is inthe correct position (level with the carbu-retor). Check to be sure the float is squarewith the carburetor cavity (one side is notfurther away than the other).

9- Lower the bowl onto the carburetorand secure it with the four screws.

10- Install the bushing into the low-speedneedle valve opening.

11- Insert the two fiber washers and theone nylon washer into the low-speed cavity.

12- Start the low-speed needle valvepacking nut into the opening. DO NOTtighten the nut at this time. Thread thelow-speed needle valve into the low-speed

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Installing a new type packing. A packing nut is notused to hold the needle adjustm etit:

opening. Continue threading it into theopening until it barely seats. After theneedle valve seats, back it out 1-1/2 turnsCOUNTERCLOCKWISE. Now, tighten thepacking nut until there is drag on the needlevalve, but the valve may still be rotated byhand, but with just a little difficulty.

13- Install the high-speed orifice intothe carburetor bowl, using the proper sizescrewdr iver ,

14- Install a NEW drain plug gasket, andthen thread the drain plug into the carbure-tor bowl cavity.SPECIAL NOTE:

The following step is to be performed ifthe carburetor being serviced has an adjust-able high-speed needle valve.

15- Install the three packing washersinto the carburetor bowl.

16- Start the high-speed needle valvepacking nut into the high-speed opening.DO NOT tighten the nut at this time.

17- Thread the high-speed needle valveinto the high-speed opening. Continue tothread it into place until it BARELY seats.After the needle valve seats, back it out 3/4turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Now, tightenthe packing nut until there is drag on theneedle valve, but the valve may still berotated by hand, but with just a little diffi-culty.

18- Install a NEW gasket and screenonto the front of the carburetor.

19- If a front cover is used on the unitbeing serviced, install the front cover andsecure it in place with the two attachingscrews.

20- Install the spring steel lever into theindent of the manual choke on the bottomside of the carburetor. This lever holds thechoke in the neutral position and preventsloose movement of the handle.

21- Install the low-speed needle valveknob by sliding it onto the valve stem, andthen secure it in place with the screw.


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4-9 ASSEMBLING CHOKESTO TYPE n CARBURETORS

Perform only one of the three followingchoke installation procedures, depending onthe type of unit being serviced. After thechoke and carburetor have been properlyinstalled onto the engine, proceed directlyto the adjustment portion of this section tooperate the engine for testing and carbure-tor adjustments under load.

Heat/Electrical Choke Installation 1- Install the choke plunger and spring

by hooking the spring into the choke lever. 2- Insert a NEW gasket into the cavity

of the choke base. 3- Insert the spring into the bore of the

choke solenoid. 4- Work the choke solenoid up the plung-

er and secure the plunger with the tworetaining screws.

.5- Place a NEW gasket onto the surfaceof the carburetor. Install the choke coveronto the carburetor. Observe how thespr ing has a clip and t he choke lever has aprotrusion. The clip MUST fit around thelever and protrusion.

6- Align the mark on the cover platewith the matching mark on the carburetor. Secure the cover plate in this position withthe three attaching screws.

7- Clean the surface of the intake mani-fold thoroughly. Check to be sure all oldgasket material has been removed. Place aNEW gasket over the studs and into place onthe manifold. Slide the carburetor downover the studs and secure it in place withthe two nuts. Tighten the nuts EVENLY andALTERNATELY. Connect the fuel line tothe carburetor. Connect the choke quick-disconnect on the choke wire leading to thedash. Install the starter and genera tor, ifthe engine being serviced is equipped withthese two units.

8- Connect the heat tube to the engineand secure it in place with the compressionnut at each end.

9- Position the heat shield over theheat tube and secure it in place with thethree attaching screws. Proceed directly tothe adjustment portion of this section tooperate the engine for testing and carbure-tor adjustments under load.


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ALL Electric Choke Installation1- Install the rod extending from the

upper choke assembly to the lower hinge ofthe choke. Secure the rod in place with acotter pin at each end.

2- Insert the choke assembly into thecavity of the float bowl with the electricalconnector facing DOWNWARD to permitinstallation of the electrical wires after thecarburetor is installed. Now, bring theclamp over the top of the choke to securethe choke assembly in place.

3- Install the pin through the end of theshaft of the choke solenoid and into thelever attached to the carburetor. Install thewasher and cotter pin.

4- Clean the surface of the intake mani-fold thoroughly. Check to be sure all oldgasket material has been removed. Place aNEW gasket over the studs and into place on

the manifold. Slide the carburetor onto theintake manifold studs and secure it in placewith the attaching nuts. Tighten the nutsEVENL Y and ALTERNATELY. Connect thefuel line to the carburetor. Attach theelectrical wires to the choke solenoid. In-stall the starter motor and generator if theengine being serviced is equipped with thesetwo units. proceed directly to the adjust-ment portion of this section to operate the engine for testing and carburetor adjust-ments under load.

Water Choke Installation 1- Install the check valve support into

the head. 2- Install the small diaphragm into the

vacuum opening of the choke body.3- Install the spring onto the top of the

support.

CHECK VALVESUPPORT

DIAPHRAGM


4- Lower the stem down through thespring and diaphragm and onto the base.

5- Install the cover and secure it inplace with the attaching screws. Tightenthe screws ALTERNATELY as a precautionagainst warping the cover.

6- Take the cover assembly and install anew gasket onto the base of the carburetor.Work the spring dip over the protrusion ofthe choke lever and lower it into the cavity.

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7- Align the mark on the cover with themark on the body, and then secure the coverin this position with the three attachingscrews.

8- Clean the surface of the intake mani-fold thoroughly. Check to be sure all oldgasket material has been removed. Place aNEW gasket over the studs and into place onthe manifold. Slide the carburetor onto theintake manifold studs and secure it in placewith the attaching nuts. Tighten the nutsEVENLY and ALTERNATELY. Connect thefuel hose to the carburetor. Connect thevacuum and water hoses to the carburetorpaying careful ATTENTION to connect theproper hose to the correct fitting accordingto the identification given to the hosesduring disassembly. If identification wasnot made during disassemby, follow the hoseto the other end to ensure proper connectionto the carburetor.

a- Connect the water hose to the topfitting of the water choke.

b- Connect the outlet water hose to thefitting closest to the carburetor. The otherend of this line is connected to a fitting onthe exhaust chamber on the port side of theengine.

c- Connect the vacuum line to the vacu-um diaphragm fitting. The other end of thisline is connected to the intake manifold.

If the hoses are not connected correctly,

wa ter will be injected into the cylinderwhen the engine is cranked, resulting in aser ies of horrendous problems.

Install the starter motor and generator ifthe engine being serviced is equipped withthese two units. Now, perform the proce-dures outlined in the next paragraphs to testand make the carburetor adjustments undera load condition.

TYPE n CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

GOOD WORDUnder all conditions, the ignition and

fuel system MUST be synchronized beforethe fine adjustments to the carburetor aremade. See Chapter 5. After the synchroni-zation has been completed, proceed with thefollowing work.

9- Mount the engine in a test tank orbody of water. If this is not possible,connect a flush attachment and garden hoseto the lower unit. ONLY the low-speedadjustment may be made using the flushattachment. If the engine is operated aboveidle speed with no load on the propeller, theengine could RUN-AWAY resulting in seri-ous damage or destruction of the unit.


Start the engine and allow it to warm tooperating temperature. Adjust the 10w-speed idle by turning the low-speed needlevalve CLOCKW1SE until the engine begins tomisfire or the rpm drops noticeably. Fromthis point, rotate the needle valve COUNT-ERCLOCKWISE until the engine is operatingat the highest rpm. .

If the engine is equipped with an adjust-able high-speed needle valve, shift theengine into FOR WARD gear, and then ad-vance the throttle to the wide open position(WOT). NEVER attempt to make this ad-justment with a flush attachment and gar-den hose attached to the lower unit. Adjustthe high-speed by rotating the high-speedneedle valve CLOCKWISE until the number of rpm begins to drop, then rotate the high-speed needle valve COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until the highest rpm is reached. Return thethrottle to idle speed. Adjust the idle speed -a second time as described earlier in thisstep. Again, advance the throttle to theWOT position and check the high-speed ad-

justrnent, Return the engine to idle speed.If the engine coughs and operates as if thefuel is too lean, but the idle and high-speedadjustments have been correctly made, thenrecheck the synchronization between thefuel and ignition systems. Now, shut offthe fuel supply and allow the engine to rununtil it first begins to misfire from lack offuel. Retard the spark and shut the enginedown. Tighten the sleeve nut securely toprevent the needle valves from changingposition through engine vibration while it isoperating, but still allow the needle valvesto be adjusted by hand using the knob on theend of the valve.

The idle stop is located on the port sideof the engine, on the outside of the cowling.Adjust the nylon screw inward or outward toobtain the desired idle speed.

4-10 TYPE III CARBURETOR

This carburetor is installed on the 9-1/2hp engine. The unit has an adjustable low-speed needle valve and fixed high-speed needle valve. The only changes that havebeen made to this particular model carbure-tor over the years was a redesign of the idleneedle valves. On early model 9.5 hp en-gines, the reeds set directly below the car-buretor. On later models, the reeds wereremoved from this location and installedbetween the engine block and the intakemanifold.

TYPE III CARBURETOR 4-43

The early model idle needle valves ex-tended out of the carburetor with an O-ring,spring, and E-clip. The needle valve wascontrolled from the front of the engine bymeans of a flexible cable. On this modelcarburetor, the cable and control knob mustbe removed before the carburetor is re-moved f rom the engine.

Later model carburetors are equippedwith a long packing nut and linkage. Anadjustable knob located on the front of theengine controls movement of the valve.When servicing the late model carburetors,the low-speed needle valve adjustment knoband linkage must be removed before thecarburetor is removed from the engine.

REMOVAL

1- Remove the choke rod that extendsover the top of the carburetor by snappingthe choke rod out of the nylon snap. Dis-connect the fuel line from the carburetor.

2- If the carburetor has a packing nutwith the needle through the nut and a nylonadjustment knob, remove the knob or re-move the linkage from the knob.

3- If the carburetor has a flexible line tothe front of the engine, remove the knob onthe front of the engine and then turn theflexible cable COUNTERCLOCKWISE untilthe needle valve is removed from the carbu-retor.

4-44 FUEL

SPECIAL NOTE:As the needle valve is being removed,

take care to retain the washer, a-ring, andspr ing installed between the E-r ing on thevalve and the carburetor. The washer andspring will be used again. The O-ring maybe discarded.

4- Remove the five screws securing thecarburetor to the intake manifold. Noticethat four of the screws have slots and one isa countersunk screw. Lift the carburetorfrom the engine.

5- Remove the four screws securing thefloat bowl, and then remove the float bowl.

6- Remove and DISCARD the bowl gas-ket.

7- Remove the hinge pin, and then liftthe float assembly from the carburetorbody.

BOWL

8- Reach inside the inlet seat and re-move the inlet needle. Remove the inletneedle seat.

9- Remove the drain plug from the bot-tom of the float bowl. Use the proper sizescrewdriver and remove the high-speed or-fice from the float bowl. Loosen the low-speed needle valve packing nut by turning itCOUNTERCLOCKWISE. Now, remove thelow-speed needle valve. Remove the pack-ing nut and washers.


NEVER dip rubber parts, plastic parts,nylon parts, diaphragms, or pump plungers incarburetor cleaner. These parts should becleaned ONLY in solvent, and then blowndry with compressed air.

Place all metal parts in a screen-typetray and dip them in carburetor cleaneruntil they appear completely clean, thenblow them dry with compressed air.

Blowout all passages in the castingswith compressed air. Check all parts and


Comparison of worn and new carburetor adjustmentscrews. The upper screw is unfit for further service.

l\lajor parts of carburetor installed on aJohnson/Evinrude 9.5 horsepower engine.

4-46 FUEL

LEVER AND

LOW-SPEED

SPRING O-RINGLow-speed needle valve and associated parts used in

the carburetor of a 9.5 horsepower engine.

passages to be sure they arenot dogged orcontain any deposits. NEVER use a piece ofwire or any type of pointed instrument toclean drilled passages or calibrated holes ina carburetor.

Move the throttle shaft back-ana-forthto check for wear. If the shaft appears tobe too loose, replace the complete throttlebody because individual replacement partsare NOT available.

Inspect the main body, airhorn, and ven-turi cluster gasket surfaces for cracks andburrs which might cause a leak. Check thefloat for deterioration. Check to be surethe float spring has not been stretched. Ifany part of the float is damaged, the unitmust be replaced. Check the float armneedle contacting surface and replace thefloat if this surface has a groove worn in it.

Inspect the tapered section of the idleadjusting needles and replace any that havedeveloped a groove.

GOOD WORN

WORN

GOOD

Needle and seat arrangement, showing a worn andnew needle for comparison.


Parts included in a carburetor repair kit for theJohnson/Evinrude 9.5 horsepower engine.

If a high-speed or ifice is installed on thecarburetor being serviced, check the orificefor cleanliness. The orifice has a stampednumber. This number represents a drill size.Check the orifice with the shank of theproper size drill to verify the proper orificeis used. The local OMC dealer will be ableto provide the correct size orifice for theengine and carburetor being serviced.

Most of the parts that should be replacedduring a carburetor overhaul are included in overhaul kits available from your local ma-rine dealer. One of these kits will contain amatched fuel inlet needle and seat. Thiscombination should be replaced each timethe carburetor is disassembled as a precau-tion against leakage.

ASSEMBLING TYPE III CARBURETOR

1- Install the high-speed orifice into thefloat body using the proper size screwdriverto prevent burring the edges of the orifice.

4-48 FUEL

Any damage to the orifice will result fuelleakage and poor engine performance.

2- Install the drain plug with a NEWgasket and tighten it securely with a 7/16"wrench.

3- Install the inlet needle seat and gas-ket. TAKE CARE to use the proper sizescrewdriver to install the seat. If the insidediameter of the seat is damaged the needlevalve will leak fuel causing a flooding condi-tion in the carburetor.

4- Apply just a drop of oil into the seat,and then insert the inlet needle into seat.

5- Position a NEW float over the needle,and then slide a NEW hinge pin into place.

6- Hold the carburetor in a vertical po-sition (up-and-down), and observe the float.The float MUST be parallel (align evenly),with the surface of the carburetor body. Ifthe float is not parallel CAREFULLY bendthe float ever so slightly, as shown, until thecorrect positioning is obtained.

7- Slide the float bowl gasket over thefloat and nozzle into position on the carbu-retor base.

(j)

8- Lower the float bowl down over thetop of the carburetor body and secure it inplace with the four attaching screws.

SPECIAL WORDS If the carburetor heinz serviced has

• C'

packing nuts and washers for the needlevalves, perform Step 9. If the carburetorhas the flexible line extending from thevalve to the front of the engine, the needlevalve will be installed AFTER the carbure-tor is in place on the engine.

9- Install the packing nut washers intothe needle valve openings. Thread the pack-ing nut into the opening but DO NOT tightenthem at this time. Thread the low-speedneedle valve into place until it just BARELYsea ts, From this position, back it out(COUNTERCLOCKWISE)l-l/2 turns as apreliminary rough adjustment.

10- Check the surface of the intake man-ifold to be sure it has been thoroughlycleaned and is free of any old gasket mater-ial. Place a NEW gasket in position on themanifold. Set the carburetor into place onthe manifold and secure it with the five


attaching screws. OBSERVE that one of thescrews is a countersunk type. This screwMUST be installed into the countersunk hole •

11- If the carburetor being serviced hasthe flexible low-speed needle valve arrange-ment, check to be sure the snap ring is inplace and then install the spring, washer andNEW O-ring onto the needle. Apply just adrop of oil onto the O-ring to ease installa-tion of the needle valve. Thread the low-speed needle valve into the carburetor untilit just BARELY seats. From this pois tion,back it out (COUNTER CLOCKWISE) 1-1/2turns as a preliminary rough adjustment.Install the choke rod by snapping it intoplace in the nylon retainer. Connect thefuel line to the carburetor.

GOOD WORDSIt is best to synchronize the fuel and

ignition systems at this time. See Chapter5. After the synchronization has been com-pleted, proceed with the following work.

4-50 FUEL

TYPE HI CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

12- Mount the engine in a test tank orbody of water. If this is not possible,connect a flush attachment and garden hoseto the lower unit. NEVER operate theengine above idle speed using the flushattachment. If the engine is operated aboveidle speed with no load on the propeller, theengine could RUN-A-WAY resulting inserious damage or destruction of the unit.


Start the engine and allow it to warm tooperating temperature. Adjust the low-speed idle by turning the low-speed needlevalve CLOCKWISE until the engine begins tomisfire or the rpm drops noticeably. Fromthis point, rotate the needle vavleCOUNTERCLOCKWISE until the engine is operating at the highest rpm. If the enginecoughs and operates as if the fuel is toolean, but the idle and high-speed adjust-ments have been correctly made, then re-check the synchronization between the fueland ignition systems.

On engines with the flexible low-speedextension to the front of the engine, thespring maintains tension on the needle andadjustment will not be lost because of vibra-tion during operation. On engines with thepacking nut arrangement, the nut must be

Idle adjustment linkage on Johnson/Evinrude 9.5horsepower engines.

Flexible cable arrangement on the 9.5 horsepowerengine.

tightened securely to hold the adjustment.HOWEVER, do not tighten it to the pointwhere an adjustment cannot be made byhand.

4-11 FUEL PUMP SERVICE

A considerable number of fuel pump de-signs and sizes have been installed on thelarger Johnson/Evinrude engines covered inthis manual. Only one can be rebuilt anddetailed procedures with illustrations aregiven in this section.

This fuel pump has three nipples provid-ing the means of connecting fuel and vacu-um lines. The vacuum line is connected toone nipple. The other end of this hose isconnected to the vacuum side of the engine.The inlet hose (from the fuel tank), is con-nected to the second nipple. The outlethose (to the carburetor), is connected to thethird nipple.

l'viinor changes have been incorporatedinto the fuel pump over the years. Thesechanges will be identified in the text.

All other fuel pumps must be replaced asa unit. However, the pump cover can be

SEATDIAPHRAGM

INLET VALVE OUTLET

VALVE

Functional diagram to illustrate operation of thefuel pump during UPWARD movement of the pistoncausing a vacuum condition in the crankcase. Noticehow the intake valve in the fuel pump is open and theoutlet valve is closed.

FUEL PUMP 4-51

PRESSURE

OUTLETVALVE

~:(~I "-"--FUEL TANK

~Functional diagram to illustrate operation of the

fuel pump during DOWNWARD movement of the piston,causing pressure in the crankcase. Notice how the.pump inlet valve is closed and the outlet valve is opento allow fuel to be transferred to the carburetor.

removed, the filter screen cleaned or re-placed, and a NEW cover gasket installed.

The accompanying illustrations show on-ly a couple of these fuel pumps, includingthe unit that can be rebuilt.

Fuel pump with the vacuum, fuel outlet, and fuelinlet fittings visible. This is the oniy Johnson/Evinrudepump that can be rebuilt.

4-52 FUEL

Side of the engine with the vacuum opening shown.The fuel pump is mounted over this opening to receivethe vacuum/pressure from the crankcase for operarion.

TROUBLESHOOTING

If the spark plug of the cylinder to whichthe vacuum line is connected becomes wet fouled, the cause may very well be a rup-tured fuel pump diaphragm. This reasoningis sound for both types of fuel pumps.Sometimes the pump that is not serviceableis bolted directly to the side of the engineblock. On other installations this non-ser-viceable pump has a vacuum hose connectedto the cylinder block. When the pump isbolted directly to the block, the pump re-ceives vacuum directly from the cylinderthrough a hole in the back side of the pumpand a matching hole in the block.

A good test for the pump that is con-nected to the intake manifold with a vacu-um hose, is to disconnect the vacuum line

Two different fuel pumps installed on OMC engines.Service on these two models is limited to removing thecover and cleaning the screen.

from the engine, operate the squeeze bulb inthe fuel line until it is firm, and then tocarefully observe the end of the vacuumhose to detect any fuel leakage. The smal-lest amount of fuel from the hose indicatesa damaged diaphragm. The pump must berebuilt to restore satisfactory service of thepump.

To test the non-serviceable pump, re-move the pump from the engine, operate thesqueeze bulb until it is firm, and then care-fully observe the vacuum hole in the backside of the pump for any indication of fuel.The SOl allest amount of fuel indicates adamaged diaphragm. In this case, the pumpMUST be replaced.

PUMP REMOVAL AND REPAIR

1- Identify each hose and its location,then disconnect the vacuum hose and t\\70fuel hoses from the fuel pump. Remove thethree attaching screws securing the pump tothe engine. Two screws are visible on top of the pump and the third is hidden behind thefuel inlet nipple.

2- L\;;ount the fuel pump in a vise, asshown. Loosen the plastic screw securingthe filter bowI to the pump.

3- Swing the hinge down and lift the fuelbowl free of the pump. Remove and DIS-CARD the bowl gasket and filter.

4- Shift the pump position in the vise, asshown. Remove the six screws securing thepump cover.

5- Remove the cover. Take care not tolose the disc washer and spring from the topof the diaphragm. Remove the disc washer,spring and diaphragm. SAVE the small discwasher because it will be used again.

6- Some model pumps may have a smalldisc washer and long spring installed underthe diaphragm. Other models may have alarge nylon washer and spring. DISCARDthe small disc washer because it has beenreplaced with the larger nylon washer and isincluded in the pump repair kit.

7- Remove the two screws from thecheck valve retainer. Reach into the pumpand remove the check valve retainer.

FUEL PUMP 4-53

4-54 FUEL

8- CAREFULLY observe how one checkvalve is facing downward and the othervalve is facing upward. Also notice thegroove in the fuel pump body. A small bosson the retainer fits into the groove as aprevention against installing the retainerincorrectly. Remove the two check valvesand the check valve gasket. Further disas-sembly of the pump is not necessary.


Wash the fuel pump body thoroughly andthen blow it dry with compressed air. Allinternal parts necessary to rebuild thepump, including diaphragm, check valves,gaskets, etc., will be included in the pump repair kit. At one time, these kits wereavailable from the local O~l!C dealer atmodest cost. However, OMC has discontin-ued packaging the parts in kit form. There-fore, unless the dealer still has one of theold kits in stock, the fuel pump parts mustbe purchased individually.

RETAINER

PUMP ASSEMBLINGAND INSTALLATION

1- Insert one of the NEW check valvesthrough the check valve gasket.

2- Install the gasket and check valveinto the pump body with the valve facingDOWNW ARD, as shown.

CHECK

CAP

Exploded draWing of the only fuel pump that can be rebuilt.

3- Position the other check valve on topof the gasket facing UPWARD. Slide theretainer down over the check valves withthe boss on the retainer in the groove of thepump body. Observe the large and smallhole in the retainer. The large hole MUSTbe positioned over the check valve facingUPWARD.

4- Secure the retainer in place with thetwo attaching screws.

5- Install the NEW LONG spring over theboss of the retainer, and then place thenylon disc washer on top of the spring thatwas provided in the kit. NEVER use thesmall disc on top of the long spring.

FUEL PUMP 4-55

Damaged old-style diaphragm with the small capinstalled on earjy model engines. This small cap hasbeen replaced with a much larger one. Notice how thiscap worked its way free of the spring and came throughthe diaphragm.

Parts included in a fuel pump repair kit for thosemodel pumps that can be rebuilt.

4-56 FUEL

GOOD WORD:The following steps may only be properly

accomplished by exercising patience and aIitt le time.

6- Mount the pump in a vise in a verticalposition, as shown. Lay the diaphragm overthe top of the nylon disc washer and ontothe pump body. Notice how the spring holdsthe disc up and partially lifts the diaphragmfrom the pump. This is a normal condition.

7- Insert the small disc and the shortspring into the cavity, as shown. This springand disc helps to cushion the vacuum im-pulses from the engine.

8- Ease the fuel pump cover down overthe diaphragm and then thread the six coverattaching screws into the pump body. Aseach screw is started, pull on the edge ofthe diaphragm to align the screw holes inthe diaphragm with the matching holes inthe pump body. Tighten the attachingscrews securely.

9- Slide the filter element into the fuel.The end of the f ilter elem ent must slideover the indexing peg in the bottom of thepump. Force the element onto the peg untilit is fully seated.

10- Place a NEW gasket into position inthe fuel pump, as shown.

11- Place the fuel pump bowl over thefilter element and into position on the gas-ket.

12- Swing the hinge up over the pumpbowl, and then secure it in place by tighten-ing the plastic thumb screw.

13- ~."ount the fuel pump onto the engineand secure it with the two screws on top andone behind the fuel inlet nipple, CARE-FULLY connect the vacuum hose and thetwo fuel hoses to their proper nipples, asidentified during disassembling. If identifi-cation was net made £0110\,1 the hoses asdescribed. Connect the vacuum hose (fromthe engine) to the nipple on the pump cover.Connect the inlet hose (from the fuel tank)to the inside nipple (the one closest to theengine). Connect the outlet hose (to thecarburetor) to the remaining nipple.

FUEL TANK AND LINE 4-57

- -,

4-12 FUEL TANK AND LINE SERVICE

The procedures outlined in this sectioncover service of or iginal equipment produc-ed by Johnson/Evinrude.

Pressurized Fuel SystemA pressure-type fuel tank was used with

the early model engines not equipped with afuel pump. Two hoses were connected be-tween the tank and the engine. One hoseserved as the fuel transfer line and theother supplied p ressur ized air to the tank.For the system to operate, the fuel fill capon the tank must be completely closed,making the tank air-tight.

The system is primed by operating theprimer pump located on top of the fuel tank.

Obsolete pressure-type fuel tank. A manually-operated primer pump on the fuel tank is worked topump fuel to the engine. After engine start, airpressure forces fuel from the tank to the engine.

...... "'"

Functional diagram illustrating a complete pressuretank fuel system from the fuel tank to the cylinder.

4-58 FUEL

The primer pump is operated until the car-buretor is full of fuel. The engine is thenstarted. Once the engine is operating, evenat idle speed, pressurized air is fed from theintake manifold through a check valve andthe hose to the fuel tank. As pressure isincreased inside the fuel tank, the fuel isforced through the fuel hose to the carbure-tor.

Each tank should build and retain thefollowing pressures:

Model CDModel ADModel QDModel FDModel RD

2 to 4-1/2 lbs.2 to 5 lbs. 2 to 5 lbs, 2 to 5-1/2 lbs.2 to 4-1/2 lbs,

When the engine is shut down and thefuel hose is disconnected from the engine,the fuel tank cap should be opened slightlyto allow the air pressure in the tank toescape. It is not a good practice to allowthe tank to remain pressurized.

Any engine equipped with this pressuriz-ed fuel system can be updated by installinga fuel pump. The cost of replacing thepressurized-type fuel tank actually exceedsthe cost involved in making the conversion.The necessary work involves drilling a holein the bypass cover to mount the pump andprovide the pump with vacuum from one of

Fuel and air pressure lines attached to a pressure-type fuel tank through the double connector. The fuelline has a rib extending its [ull. length.

the cylinders. Installation of new hoses tothe carburetor is not a difficult or expensivetask.

The accompanying illustration clearlyshows the two hoses connected to the fueltank. The hose on the left transfers fuel tothe carburetor and the hose on the right isthe air pressure line. To assist in identify-ing the fuel line, the fuel hose has a ribextending its full length from the tank tothe carburetor. The primer pump is alsodearly shown in the illustration.

DISASSEMBLING

WARNINGTAKE EXTREME CARE during work

with the fuel tank, because highly flamablefumes are present and the danger of fire orexplosion is present. Demand and observeNO SMOKING or open flame in the workarea. Clean the tank in the out-of-doors.

1- Check to be sure the knob on thepump shaft is able to rotate on the shaft.The knob is secured to the shaft with acotter pin. If the knob does not turn duringoperation, the diaphragm in the pump willbe damaged or ruptured.Explana tion

The following description of pump opera-tion may be helpful in explaining how dam-age to the diaphragm may be caused byfailure of the button to turn.

When a person operates the pump, theaction is not in a straight down direction.The natural tendancy is to turn the thumb orhand while operating the plunger. The shaftis connected directly to the diaphragm.Therefore, if the knob fails to turn, theshaft will be torn away from the diaphragm.

2- Check to be sure the proper hose isconnected to the correct fitting at the car-buretor. The hose on the left in the accom-panying illustration is the air pressure lineand the hose on the right is the fuel supplyline. Notice the rib extending the fulllength of the fuel hose.

3- Remove the fuel tank cap. Discon-nect the retaining chain from inside of thefuel cap. The chain may hang free insidethe fuel tank.

4- If the chain cannot be disconnectedfrom the cap by removing the retainingscrew, then remove the cotter pin frominside the tank. The chain and cap can thenbe removed as an assembly.

5- Remove the cotter pin from the push-knob on the fuel pump plunger.

6- Remove the push knob from the pumpplunger. If the knob is "frozen" and cannotbe removed easily, hold the plunger with apair of pliers and work the knob free with asecond pair of pliers.

CAP


4-60 FUEL

COVER

7- Remove the retaining scews from a-round the pump housing. Take care to savethe washer on each screw for use duringinstalla tion.

g; Lift the pump and cover from thefuel tank, as shown.

9- Remove and discard the gasket fromthe fuel tank. Clean any old gasket mater-ial from the fuel tank surface.

10- Secure the pump housing in a vise, asshown. This position will provide freedomto work on the pump and pickup assembly.Remove the nut and separate the pickupf rorn the pump body. The pickup and screenare sold only as an assembly.

11- Test operation of the check valve byattempting to suck air up through the tube.The attempt should be successful. Attemptto blow air down through the tube. Theattempt should fail. The check valve shouldallow air to pass up through the tube butprevent the movement of air in the oppositedirection. If the check valve fails the tests,clean the assembly in carburetor cleanerand then wash it thoroughly with soap andwater to prevent acid burn to the lips andmouth when the test is repeated. Performthe test a second time. If the unit fails topass the second test, the entire pickup as-sembly MUST be replaced.

FUELPICKUP

12- Remove the eight screws from thepump body and lift the body free of thepump. Take care not to damage or loose thetwo springs, two washers, disc, and thediaphragm. Observe the relationship ofparts: The spring on top of the diaphragm;the rubber washer and spring to the right;the sm all disc in t he center, as shown in theaccompanying illustration.

13- Remove the spring from the top ofthe diaphragm. Lift the rubber washer andspring from the right side of the diaphragm.

AIR RELI EFVALVE

14- Lift the diaphragm free of the pumpbody with the pump plunger passing outthrough the housing.

15- Remove the spring from the housinglocated under the diaphragm.

16- Remove the small disc from thecenter of t he housing.

17- Remove the small nut and washerfrom the old diaphragm.


Pickup and filter screen used in a pressure-type fueltank. The screen should be cleaned regularily withsolvent and then blown dry with compressed air.


WARNINGTAKE EXTREME CARE during work

with the fuel tank, because highly flam ablefumes dre present and the danger of fire orexplosion is present. Demand and observeNO SMOKING or open flame in the work area. Clean the tank in the out-of-doors.

Wash the interior of the fuel tank withsolvent. Agitate the solvent violently whilerapidly changing position of the tank toremove any foreign material in the tank.After the tank has been cleaned with thesolvent, rinse it thoroughly with clear waterand then dry and remove any moisture fromthe inside.

ASSEMBLING

1- Slide the large concave washer ontothe pump plunger. Insert the pump plungerthrough the diaphragm.

2- Slide a flat washer onto the plungeron the opposite side of the diaphragm fromthe concave washer. Thread the nut onto

D I APHRAGH

4-62 FUEL

Exploded view of a pressure-tyoe fuel tank with major parts identified.

the plunger and tighten it just snugly. DONOT overtighten the nut, to prevent possibledamage to the diaphragm.

3- Insert the small disc washer into thecenter hole of the housing.

4- Insert the glass sight gauge in thehousing and check to be sure it is properlyseated.

5- Install the spring over the boss on theplunger.

6- Work the pump plunger down throughthe spring and the housing with the dia-phragm seated on the housing. Install therelief spring and washer into the housing andhole of the diaphragm.

7- Install the spring over the top of thepump washer. Check to be sure the housingis level to allow the spring to remain inposition when the pump housing is installed.

8- Position the pump housing down overthe spring and relief valve.

9- Start to thread the eight screws se-curing the pump housing to the pump body,and then tighten them evenly and alternate-ly.


4-64 FUEL

10- Place the pickup check valve as-sembly in position, and then start the com-pression nut BY HAND to prevent cross-threading. Tighten the nut securely withthe proper size wrench.

11- Position a NEW gasket in placearound the fuel pump opening on the tank.

12- Lower the complete assembly intothe fuel tank. Align the retaining screwholes with the matching holes in the gasketand tank.

13- Securing the pump in place with theattaching screws. Use NEW tiny gaskets oneach screw to prevent fuel linkage throughthe screw holes.

14- Slide the push button onto the pumpplunger.

15- Secure the push button in place witha NEW cotter pin. After the pin is in placeand the ends have been bent back in theusual manner, clip off the ends of the pin to prevent scratching a finger or hand whenthe pump is operated. Check to be sure thebuttom will rotate in a full circle, without binding.

FUELPICKUP

®

16- Install the fuel cap and chain. If thechain and cap were removed, use a NEWcotter pin through the flange in the tank tosecure the chain in place.

17- Install the fuel cap. If only the capwas removed, attach the chain to the capwith the retaining screw.

18- After the work is completed, add aquantity of fuel/oil mixture to the tank andtest the system for proper operation and noleaks. Insert a small screwdriver into theend of the fuel connector at the end of theline to open the check valve. Operate thefuel tank pump and and be prepared to catchfuel being discharged from the end of thehose.

Fuel Line ServiceThe only service work to be performed

on the fuel lines is replacement of the 0-rings in the fuel line connectors, and re-placement of the hoses. New O-rings andfuel lines are available at the local OMCdealer.

19- Use two ice picks or similar tool,and push down the center plunger of theconnector and work the O-ring out of thehole. Repeat the procedure to remove theO-ring from the other check valve.


20- Apply just a drop of oil into the holeof the connector. Apply a thin coating ofoil to the surface of the O-r ing. Pinch theO-ring together and work it into the holewhile simultaneously using a punch to de-press the plunger inside the connector.

4-66 fUEL

4-13 LATE MODEL FUEL TANK SERVICE

1- Late model fuel tanks (since about1959), are not pressurized. A squeeze bulbis used to move fuel from the tank to thecarburetor until the engine is operating.Once the engine starts, the fuel pump,mounted on the engine, transfers fuel fromthe tank to the carburetor.

2- The pickup unit in the tank is sold asa complete unit, but without the gauge andfloa t.

3- To replace the pickup unit, first re-move the four screws securing the unit inthe tank. Next, lift the pickup unit up outof the tank.

4- Remove the two Phillips screws se-cur ing the fuel gauge to the bottom of thepickup unit and set the gauge aside forinstallation onto the new pickup unit.

If the pickup unit is not to be replaced,clean and check the screen for damage. Itis possible to bend a new piece of screenmaterial around the pickup and solder it inplace without purchasing a complete newunit.

Attach the fuel gauge to the new pickupunit and secure it in place with the twoPhillips screws.


-5- Clean the old gasket material from

fuel tank and old pickup unit (if the oldpickup unit is to be installed for furtherservice). Work the float arm down throughthe fuel tank opening, and at the same timethe fuel pickup tube into the tank. It willprobably be necessary to exert a little forceon the float arm in order to feed it all intothe hole. The fuel pickup arm should springinto place once it is through the hole. Se-cure the pickup and float unit in place withthe four attaching screws.

6- The primer squeeze bulb can be re-placed in a short time. A squeeze bulbassembly, complete with the check valvesinstalled, may be obtained from the localOMC dealer.

4-68 FUEL

An arrow is clearly visible on thesqueeze bulb to indicate the direction offuel flow. The sqeeze bulb MUST be instal-led correctly in the line because the checkvalves in each end of the bulb will allow fuelto flow in ONLY one direction. Therefore if the squeeze bulb should be installed back-wards (in a moment of haste to get the jobdone), fuel will not reach the carburetor.

7- To replace the bulb, first unsnap theclamps on the hose at each end of the bulb.Next, pull the hose out of the check valvesat each end of the bulb. New clamps areincluded with a new squeeze bulb. If thefuel line has been exposed to considerablesunlight, it may have become hardened causing difficulty in working it over thecheck valve. To remedy this situationsimply immerse the ends of the hose i~boiling water for a few minutes to softenthe rubber and the hose will then slip ontothe check valve without further problems.After the lines on both sides have beeninstalled, snap the camps in place to securethe line. Check a second time to be surethe arrow is pointing in the fuel flow direc-tion, TOWARDS the engine.

8- Use two ice picks or similar tool, andpush down the center plunger of the connec-tor and work the O-ring out of the hole.

9- Apply just a drop of oil into the holeo~ the connector. Apply a thin coating of011 to the surface of the O-ring. Pinch theO-ring together and work it into the holewhile simultaneously using a punch to de-press the plunger inside the connector.

O-RI

VALVE

5IGNITION

5-1 INTRODUCTION

The less an outboard engine is operated,the more care it needs. Allowing an out-board engine to remain idle will do moreharm than if it is used regularly. To main-tain the engine in top shape and alwaysready for efficient operation at any time,the engine should be operating every 3 to 4weeks throughout the year.

The carburetion and ignition principlesof two-cycle engine operation MUST be un-derstood in order to perform a proper tune-

Outboard engine performance can be affected byengine non-use. The engine should be started and runper iodicall y.

up on an outboard motor.If you have any doubts concerning your

understanding of two-cyle engine operation,it would be best to study the operationtheory section in the first portion of Chap-ter 3, before tackling any work on the igni-tion system.

The ONLY ignition system used on allJohnson/Evinrude engines covered in thismanual is a flywheel magneto system. Thefirst sections of this chapter will be devotedto an explanation of the system and itstheory of operation. The latter sections willprovide troubleshooting and repair instruc-tions. For synchronizing procedures, seeSection 5-8.

View of the magneto installed on engines covered inthis manual. A one-cylinder engine will have only halfthe parts.

5-2 IGNITION

5-2 SPARK PLUG EVALUA TION

Removal: Remove the spark plug wiresby pulling and twisting on only the moldedcap. NEVER pull on the wire or the connec-tion inside the cap may become separated orthe boot damaged. Remove the spark plugsand keep them in order. TAKE CARE not totilt the socket as you remove the plug or theinsulator may be cracked.

Examine: Line the plugs in order ofre moval and carefull y examine the m to de-termine the firing conditions in each cylin-der. If the side electrode is bent down ontothe center electrode, the piston is travelingtoo far upward in the cylinder and strikingthe spark plug. Such damage indicates thewrist pin or the rod bearing is worn exces-sively. In all cases, an engine overhaul isrequired to correct the condition. To verifythe cause of the problem, turn the engineover by hand. As the piston moves to thefull up position, push on the piston crownwith a screwdr iver inserted through thespark plug hole, and at the same time rockthe flywheel back-and-forth. If any play inthe piston is detected, the engine must berebuilt.

Correct Color: A proper firing plugshould be dry and powdery. Hard depositsinside the shell indicate too much oil isbeing mixed with the fuel. The most import-ant evidence is the light gray color of theporcelain, which is an indication this plughas been running at the correct tempera-ture. This means the plug is one with thecorrect heat range and also that the air-fuelmixture is correct.

Rich Mixture: A black, sooty condition

This spark plug is foul from operating with an over-rich condition, possibly an improper carburetor adjust-ment.

Damaged spark plugs. Notice the broken electrodeon the left plug. The broken part MUST be found andremoved before returning the engine to service.

on both the spark plug shell and the porce-lain is caused by an excessively rich air-fuelmixture, both at low and high speeds. Therich mixture lowers the combustion temper-ature so the spark plug does not run hotenough to burn off the deposits.

Deposits formed only on the shell is anindication the low-speed air-fuel mixture istoo rich. At high speeds with the correctmixture, the temperature in the combustionchamber is high enough to burn off thedeposits on the insulator.

Too Cool: A dark insulator, with veryfew deposits, indicates the plug is runningtoo cool. This condition can be caused bylow compression or by using a spark plug ofan incorrect heat range. If this conditionshows on only one plug it is most usuallycaused by low compression in that cylinder.If all of the plugs have this appearance, thenit is probably due to the plugs having a too-low heat range.

This spark plug has been operating too-cool, becauseit is rated with a too-low heat range for the engine.

Today, numerous type spark plugs are available forservice. ALWAYS check with your local marine dealerto be sure you are purchasing the proper plug for theengine being serviced.

Fouled: A fouled spark plug may becaused by the wet oily deposits on theinsulator shorting the high-tension currentto ground inside the shell. The conditionmay also be caused by ignition problemswhich prevent a high-tension pulse to bedelivered to the spark plug.

Carbon Deposits: Heavy carbon-like de-posits are an indication of excessive oil inthe fuel. This condition may be the resultof poor oil grade, (automotive-type insteadof a mar ine-type); improper oil-fuel mixturein the fuel tank; or by worn piston rings.

Overheating: A dead white or gray insu-lator, which is generally blistered, is anindication of overheating and pre-ignition.The electrode gap wear rate will be morethan normal and in the case of pre-ignition,will actually cause the electrodes to melt as

CRACK

Cut-a-way drawing showing major spark plug parts.

POLARITY CHECK 5-3

shown in this illustration. Overheating andpre-ignition are usually caused by improperpoint gap adjustment; detonation from usingtoo-Iow an octane rating fuel; an excessive-ly lean air-fuel mixture; or problems in thecooling system.

Electrode Wear: Electrode wear resultsin a wide gap and if the electrode becomescarbonized it will form a high-resistancepath for the spark to jump across. Such acondition will cause the engine to misfireduring acceleration. If all plugs are in thiscondition, it can cause an increase in fuelconsumption and very poor performanceduring high-speed operation. The solution isto replace the spark plugs with a rating inthe proper heat range and gapped to specifi-cation.

Red rust-colored deposits on the entirefiring end of a spark plug can be caused bywater in the cylinder combustion chamber.This can be the first evidence of waterentering the cylinders through the exhaustmanifold because of an accumulation ofscale or defective exhaust shutter. Thiscondition MUST be corrected at the firstopportunity. Refer to Chapter 3, EngineService.

5-3 POLARITY CHECK

Coil polarity is extremely important forproper battery ignition system operation. Ifa coil is connected with reverse polarity,the spark plugs may demand from 30 to 4-0percent more voltage to fire. Under suchdemand conditions, in a very short time the coil would be unable to supply enough volt-age to fire the plugs. Anyone of thefollowing three methods may be used toquickly determine coil polarity.

1- The polar ity of the coil can be check-ed using an ordinary D.C. voltmeter. Con-nect the positive lead to a good ground.With the engine running, momentarily touchthe negative lead to a spark plug terminal.

5-4 IGNITION

The needle should swing upscale. If theneedle swings downscale, the polarity isreversed.

2- If a voltmeter is not available, apencil may be used in the following manner:Disconnect a spark plug wire and hold themetal connector at the end of the cableabout 1/4" from the spark plug terminal.Now, insert an ordinary pencil tip betweenthe terminal and the connector. Crank theengine with the ignition switch ON. If thespark feathers on the plug side and has aslight orange tinge, the polarity is correct.If the spark feathers on the cable connectorside, the polarity is reversed.

3- The firing end of a used spark plugcan give a clue to coil polarity. If theground electrode is "dished", it may meanpolarity is reversed.

5-4 WIRING HARNESS

CRITICAL WORDS: These next twoparagraphs may well be the most importantwords in this chapter. Misuse of the wiringharness is the most single cause of electri-cal problems with outboard power plants.

The spark plug gap should always be checked beforeinstalling new or used spark plugs.

NEW GASKET

PLUG INSTALLEDLOOSELY

PLUG INSTALLEDTOO TIGHT

Drawing to illustrate a spark plug properly installed,center, a:1d other plugs, left and right, improperlyinstalled.

Damaged wiring harness lead. Such damage cannotbe repaired. The lead or harness must be replaced.

A wiring harness is used between thekey switch and the engine. This harnessseldom contains wire of sufficient size toallow connecting accessories. Therefore,anytime a new accessory is installed, NEWwiring should be used between the batteryand the accessory. A separate fuse panelMUST be installed on the dash. To connectthe fuse panel, use one red and one blackNo. 10 gauge wire from the battery. If asmall amount of 12-volt current should beaccidently attached to the magneto system,the coil may be damaged or DESTROYED.Such a mistake in wiring can easily happenif the source for the 12-volt accessory istaken from the key switch. Therefore,again let it be said, NEVER connect acces-sor ies through the key switch.

5-5 FLYWHEEL MAGNETO IGNITION

DescriptionREAD AND BELIEVE. A battery instal-

led to crank the engine DOES NOT mean theengine is equipped with a battery-type igni-tion system. A magneto system uses thebattery only to crank the engine. Once theengine is running, the battery has absolutelyno affect on engine operation. Therefore, if

MAGNET

FLYWHEEL MAGNETO 5-5

The battery MUsr be located near the engine in awell-ventilated area. It must be secured in such amanner that absolutely no movement is possible in anydirection under the most violent actions of the boat.

the battery is low and fails to crank theengine properly for starting, the engine maybe cranked manually, started, and operated.Under these conditions, the key switch mustbe turned to the ON position or the enginewill not start by hand cranking.

A magneto system is a self-containedunit. The unit does not require assistancefrom an outside source for starting or con-tinued operation. Therefore, as previouslymentioned, if the battery is dead, the engine

BREAKER PO I NTSSchematic diagram of a magneto ignition system.

SPARK PLUG

5-6 IGNITION

may be cranked manually and the enginestarted.

The flywheel-type magneto unit consistsof an armature plate, and a permanent mag-net built into the flywheel. The ignitioncoil, condenser and breaker points aremounted on the armature plate.

As the pole pieces of the magnet passover the heels of the coil, a magnetic fieldis built up about the coil, causing a currentto flow through the primary winding.

Now, at the proper time, the breakerpoints are separated by action of a cam, andthe primary circuit is broken. When thecircuit is broken, the flow of primary cur-rent stops and causes the magnetic fieldabout the coil to break down instantly. Atthis precise moment, an electrical currentof extremely high voltage is induced in thefine secondary windings of the coil. Thishigh voltage is conducted to the spark plugwhere it jumps the gap between the pointsof the plug to ignite the compressed chargeof air-fuel mixture in the cylinder.

5-6 TROUBLESHOOTING

Always attempt to proceed with thetroubleshooting in an orderly manner. Theshotgun approach will only result in wastedtime, incorrect diagnosis, replacement ofunneccessary parts, and frustration.

Begin the ignition system troubleshoot-ing with the spark plug/s and continuethrough the system until the source of trou-ble is located.

Remember, a magneto system is a self-contained unit. Therefore, if the engine hasa key switch and wire harness, remove themfrom the engine and then make a test for

The engine terminals should be inspected and anycorrosion removed to ensure a proper connection withwiring harness.

D IAPHRAGl1

TO MAGNETO

Schematic diagram of a vacuum cutout switch usedon early model small horsepower engine. This illustra-tion depicts the position of the diaphragm in relGtion tothe ground contact when operating at normal manifoldpressure. Spring omitted for clarity.

spark. If a good spark is obtained with thesetwo items disconnected, but no spark isavailable at the plug when they are con-nected, then the trouble is in the harness orthe key switch. If a test is made for sparkat the plug with the harness and switchconnected, check to be sure the key switchis turned to the ON position.

Vacuum Cutout SwitchOn some smaller engine models, a cutout

vacuum switch is installed. This switch isconnected to one of the cylinders in the

CLOSED CONTACT

TO MAGNETO

Schematic diagram oj' the cutout switch to depictthe diaphragm making contact with the ground. Thiscondition results from abnormally high manifold suctionon the instant of rapidly throttling down from high toslow idle speed with the engine in neutral. Spring notshown for clarity.

ignition system. The switch is actuated byvacuum from the cylinder. When a highvacuum pull is exerted against the switch,during engine operation in gear without thelower unit in the water, the switch is closedand the engine is shut down. This feature isa safeguard against the engine "runningaway" while operating with a no-load condi-tion on the propeller. A two-cycle enginewill continue to increase rpm under a no-load condition and attempts to shut it downwill fail, resulting in serious damage ordestruction of the unit.

The vacuum switch also serves as a safe-ty fea ture when the boat is operating in thewater. If the propeller is released from the

TROUBLESHOOTING 5-7

shaft, because of an accident, striking anunderwater object, whatever, the enginewould then be operating under a no-loadcondition. The vacuum switch will shutdown the engine and prevent extensive dam-age, resulting from a "run-a-way" condition.

This cutout switch arrangement was in-stalled on all 28, 33, and 35 hp engines,1958-59, and all 40 hp engines covered in this manual.

Therefore, if spark is not present at thespark plug, disconnect the wires from thevacuum switch and again test for spark atthe spark plug. If spark is present with thevacuum switch disconnected, the switch isdefective and must be replaced.

Exploded view of a "run-e-way" cutout switch installed on late-model engines.

5-8 IGNITION

WIRING HARNESS

WIRINGHARNESS

A coil DESTROYED when 12-volts was connectedinto the magneto wiring system. Mechanics report in8596 of the cases, the damage occurs when an accessoryis connected through the key switch.

tructive in a salt water atmosphere. There-fore, during the troubleshooting work onthese engines, always disconnect this plugand make a careful check for any sign ofcorrosion.

I

Key SwitchA magneto key switch operates in RE-

VERSE of any other type key switch. Whenthe key is moved to the OFF position, thecircuit is CLOSED between the magneto andground. In some cases, when the key isturned to the OFF position the points aregrounded. For this reason, an automotive-type switch MUST NEVER be used, becausethe circuit would be opened and dosed inreverse, and if 12-volts should reach thecoil, the coil will be DESTROYED.

STERNliGHT

\,/

JUNCTIONBOX

WIRING HARNESSTO ENGINE

Functional diagram to illustrate proper hookup of accessories through a junction box. If a junction box is notinstalled on the boat, connect accessories directly to the battery. NEVER connect accessories through the key switch.

CRITICAL WORDS: These next twoparagraphs may well be the most importantwords in this chapter. Misuse of the wiringharness is the most single cause of electri-cal problems with outboard power plants.

A wiring harness is used between thekey switch and the engine. This harnessseldom contains wire of sufficient size toallow connecting accessories. Therefore,anytime a new accessory is installed, NEWwiring should be used between the batteryand the accessory. A separate fuse panelMUST be installed on the dash. To connect the fuse panel, use one red and one blackNo. 10 gauge wires from the battery. If asmall amount of 12-volt current should beaccidently attached to the magneto system,the coil will be damaged or DESTROYED.Such a mistake in wiring can easily happenif the source for the 12-volt accessory istaken from the key switch. Therefore,again let it be said, NEVER connect acces-sories through the key switch.

The wiring harness installed on the 35hp, 1959, and the 40 hp, 1960 model units,was connected to the the side of the enginethrough an electrical plug utilized "male"'and "female" connectors. This particulartype connector has been a contributing fac-tor to a number of problems in the ignitionsystem due to the suceptibility of the con-nector to corrosion. The plug is exposed andsubject to moisture which is especially des-

TROUBLESHOOTING 5-9

plugs installed is to duplicate actual operat-ing conditions regarding flywheel speed. Ifthe flywheel is rotated with the pull cordwith the plugs removed, the flywheel willrotate must faster because of the no-com-pression condition in the cylinder, giving theFALSE indication of satisfactory spark.

A spark tester capable of testing forspark while cranking and also while theengine is operating, can be purchased fromBetter Way Tool Company. See the insideback cover of this manual for "How toOrder" instructions.

3- Use a spark tester and check forspark at each cylinder. If a spark tester is

Spark Plugs 1- Check the plug wires to be sure they

are properly connected. Check the entirelength of the wire/s from the plug/s to themagneto under the armature plate. If thewire is to be removed from the spark plug,ALWAYS use a pulling and twisting motionas a precaution against damaging the con-nection.

2- Attempt to remove the spark plug/sby hand. This is a rough test to determine ifthe plug is tightened properly. You shouldnot be able to remove the plug without usingthe proper socket size tool. Remove thespark plug/s and keep them in order. Ex-amine each plug and evaluate its conditionas descr ibed in Section 5-2.

If the spark plugs have been removed andthe problem cannot be determined, but theplug appears to be in satisfactory condition,electrodes, et c., then replace the plugs inthe spark plug openings.

A conclusive spark plug test should al-ways been performed with the spark plugsinstalled. A plug may indicate satisfactoryspark when it is removed and tested, butunder a compression condition may fail. Anexample would be the possibility of a personbeing able to jump a given distance on theground, but if a strong wind is blowing, hisdistance may be reduced by half. The sameis true with the spark plug. Under goodcompression in the cylinder, the spark maybe too weak to ignite the fuel properly.

Therefore, to test the spark plug undercompression, replace it in the engine andtighten it to the proper torque value. An-other reason for testing for spark with the

5-10 IGNITION

not available, hold the plug wire about 1/4-inch from the engine. Turn the flywheelwith a pull starter or electrical starter andcheck for spark. A strong spark over a widegap must be observed when testing in thismanner, because under compression a strongspark is necessary in order to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder. This means itis possible to think you have a strong spark,when in reali ty the spark will be too weakwhen the plug is installed. If there is nospark, or if the spark is weak, the trouble ismost likely under the flywheel in the mag-neto.

ONE MORE WORD: Each cylinder hasits own ignition system in a flywheel-typeignition system. This means if a strongspark is observed on anyone cylinder andnot at another, only the weak system is atfault. However, it is always a good idea tocheck and service all systems while theflywheel is removed.

CompressionA compression check is extremely im-

portant, because an engine with low or un-even compression between cylinders CAN-NOT be tuned to operate satisfactorily.

Checking the rings and cylinder walls through theopening on the exhaust side of the engine to be mre thewalls are not scored and the rings are not stuck in thepiston (fail to expand properly).

Therefore, it is essential that any compres-sion problem be corrected before proceedingwith the tune-up procedure. See Chapter 3.

If the power head shows any indication ofoverheating, such as discolored or scorchedpaint, especially in the area of the top (No.L) cylinder, inspect the cylinders visuallythru the transfer ports for possible scoring.A more thorough inspection can be made ifthe head is removed. It is possible for acylinder with satisfactory compression to bescored slightly. Also, check the waterpump. The overheating condition may becaused by a faulty water pump.

An overheating condition may also becaused by running the engine out of thewater. For unknown reasons, many opera-tors have formed a bad habit of running asmall engine without the lower unit beingsubmerged. Such a practice will result in aoverheated condition in a matter of seconds.It is interesting to note, the same operatorwould never operate or allow anyone else torun a large horsepower engine without watercirculating through the lower unit for cool-ing. Bear-in-mind, the laws governing oper-ation and damage to a large unit ALL applyequally as well to the small engine.

The preferred method of checking the cylinder wallsand rings is to pull the head and make an inspection.This method will also reveal the piston condition ineach cylinder.

Checking Compression4- Remove the spark plug wires.

ALWAYS grasp the molded cap and pull itloose with a twisting motion to preventdamage to the connection. Remove thespark plugs and keep them in ORDER bycylinder for evaluation later. Ground thespark plug leads to the engine to render theignition system inoperative whileperforming the compression check.

Insert a compression gauge into theNo.1, top, spark plug opening. Crank theengine with the starter, or pull on thestarter cord, through at least 4- completepiston strokes with the throttle at the wide-open position, or until the highest possiblereading is observed on the gauge. Recordthe reading.

Repea t the test and record the compres-sion for each cylinder. A variation betweencylinders is far more important than theactual readings. A variation of more than 5psi between cylinders indicates the lowercompression cylinder may be defective. Theproblem may be worn, broken, or stickingpiston rings, scored pistons or worn cylin-ders. These problems may only be deter-mined after the head has been removed.Removing the head on an outboard engine isnot that big a deal, and may save manyhours of frustration and the cost ofpurchasing unnecessary parts to correct afaul ty condition.

CondenserIn simple terms, a condenser is composed

of two sheets of tin or aluminum foil laid

TROUBLESHOOTING 5-11

ALTERNATE LAYERS OFINSULATION -- WAXED PAPER-ALTERNATE LAYERS OF FOIL

TI N OR ALUM I NUH

FOIL\

INSULATIONRough sketch to illustrate how the waxed paper,

aluminum [oil, and insulation are rolled in a typicalcondenser.

one on top of the other, but separated by asheet of insulating 'material such as waxedpaper, etc. The sheets are rolled into acylinder to conserve space and then insertedinto a metal case for protection and topermit easy assembly.

The purpose of the condenser is to ab-sorb or store the secondary current built upin the primary winding at the instant thebreaker points are separated. By absorbingor stor ing this current, the condenser pre-vents excessive arcing and the useful life ofthe breaker points is extended. The conden-ser also gives added force to the chargeproduced in the secondary winding as thecondenser discharges.

Modern condensers seldom cause prob-lems, therefore, it is not necessary to installa new one each time the points are replac-ed. However, if the points show evidence ofarcing, the condenser may be at fault andshould be replaced. A faulty condenser maynot be detected without the use of specialtest equipment. The modest cost of a newcondenser justifies its purchase and installa-tion to eliminate this item as a source oftrouble.

Proper hookup to test a condenser.

5-12 IGNITION

Worn and corroded breaker points unfit for furtherservice.

Breaker PointsThe breaker points in an outboard motor

are an extremely important part of theignition system. A set of points may appearto be in good condition, but they may be thesource of hard starting, misfiring, or poorengine performance. The rules and know-ledge gained from association with l,f.-cycle engines does not necessarily apply to a 2-cycle engine. The points should be replacedevery 100 hours of operation or at leastonce a year. REMEMBER, the less anoutboard engine is operated, the more careit needs. Allowing an outboard engine toremain idle will do more harm than if it isused regularly.

A breaker point set consists of twopoints. One is attached to a stationary

Drawing to illustrate proper point alignment, bot-tom set, compared with exaggerated misalignment ofthe other two.

bracket and does not move. The other pointis attached to a movable mount. A spring isused to keep the points in contact with eachother, except when they are separated bythe action of a cam built into the flywheelor machined on the crankshaft. Both pointsare constructed with a steel base and atungsten cap fused to the base.

To properly diagnose magneto (spark)problems, the theory of electricity flowmust be understood. The flow of electr ici tythrough a wire may be compared with theflow of water through a pipe. Consider thevoltage in the wire as the water pressure inthe pipe and the amperes as the volume ofwater. Now, if the water pipe is broken, thewater does not reach the end of the pipe. Ina similar manner if the wire is broken theflow of electricity is broken. If the pipesprings a leak, the amount of water reachingthe end of the pipe is reduced. Same withthe wire. If the installation is defective orthe wire becomes grounded, the amount ofelectricity (amperes) reaching the end ofthe wire is reduced.

Check the wiring carefully, inspect thepoints closely and adjust them accurately.The point setting for ALL engines covered inthis manual is 0.020". An added item ofuseful information simplifying purchase ofnew points is that ALL point sets for theengines covered in this manual have thesame part number, 58014-8.

Drawing to depict how a 0.016" feeler gauge may beinserted between a badly set of worn points and theactual opening is 0.021". The point set must be in goodconditon to obtain an accurate adjustment.

5-7 SERVICING FLYWHEEL MAGNETOIGNITION SYSTEM

General InformationMagnetos installed on outboard engines

will usually operate over extremely longper iods of time without requiring adjust-ment or repair. However, if ignition systemproblems are encountered, and the usualcorrective actions such as replacement ofspark plugs does not correct the problem,the magneto output should be checked todetermine if the unit is functioning proper-ly.

Magneto overhaul procedures may differslightly on various outboard models, but thefollowing general basic instructions will ap-ply to all Johnson/Evinrude high speed fly-wheel-type magnetos.

REMOVAL

1- Remove the hood or enough of theengine cover to expose the flywheel. Dis-connect the battery connections from the

SERVICING 5-13

battery terminals, if a battery is used tocrank the engine. If a hand starter isinstalled, remove the attaching hardwarefrom the legs of the starter assembly andlift the starter free.

2- On hand started models, a roundratchet plate is attached to the flywheel toallow the hand starter to engage in theratchet and thus turn the flywheel. Thisplate must be removed before the flywheelnut is removed.

3- Remove the nut securing the flywheelto the crankshaft. It may be necessary touse some type of flywheel strap to preventthe flywheel from turning as the nut isloosened.

4- Install the proper flywheel puller us-ing the same screw holes in the flywheel

5-14 IGNITION

that are used to secure the ratchet plateremoved in Step 2. NEVER attempt to use apuller which pulls on the outside edge of theflywheel or the flywheel may be damaged.After the puller is installed, tighten thecenter screw onto the end of the crankshaft.Continue tightening the screw until the fly-wheel is released from the crankshaft. Re-move the flywheel. DO NOT strike the pul-ler center bolt with a hammer in an attemptto dislodge the flywheel. Such action couldser iously damage the lower seal and/or low-er bearing.

5- STOP, and carefully observe the mag-neto and associated wiring layout. Studyhow the magneto is assembled. TAKE TIMEto make notes on the wire routing. Observehow the heels of the laminated core, withthe coil attached, is flush with the boss onthe armature plate. These items must bereplaced in their proper positions. You mayelect to follow the practice of many profes-sional mechanics by taking a ser ies of pho-tographs of the engine with the flywheelremoved: one from the top, and a couplefrom the sides showing the wiring and ar-rangement of parts.

Breaker Points/Condenser ServiceThe armature plate does not have to be

removed to service the magneto. If it isnecessary to remove the plate for other

This particular engine differs from the text proce-dures because a washer is installed under the flywheelnut.

service work, such as to replace the coil orto replace the top seal, see Step 7.

For simplicity and clarity, the followingprocedures and accompanying illustrationscover a one-cylinder ignition system. Iflarger than one-cylinder is being serviced,repeat the procedures for each coil andbreaker point assembly.

6- Remove the screw attaching thewires from the coil and condenser to one setof points. On engines equipped with a keyswitch, "kill" button, or "run-a-way" switch,a ground wire is also connected to thisscrew.

7- Using a pair of needle-nose pliersremove the wire clip from the post protrud-ing through the center of the points.

8- Again, with the needle-nose pliers,remove the flat retainer holding the set ofpoints together.

Plate installed on some engines covering the inspec-tion hole in the flywheel. The plate is clearly markedto indicate which side is to face upward during installa-tion.

9- Lif t the moveable side of the pointsfree of the other half of the set.

10- Remove the hold-down screw secur-ing the non-moveable half of the point setto the armature plate.

11- Remove the hold down screw securingthe condenser to the armature plate. Ob-serve how the condenser sets into a recessin the armature plate.

Repeat the procedure for the other setof points.

SERVICING 5-15

5-16 IGNITION

Armature Plate RemovalFirst, These Words: It is not necessary

to remove the armature plate unless the topseal or the coil is to be replaced.

12- Disconnect the advance arm con-necting the armature plate with the powershaft on the side of the engine. Next,remove the wires connecting the undersideof the armature plate with the "kill" switch,or to the wiring harness plug. The wires ofmost units have a quick-disconnect fitting.Remove the wires from the vacuum (run-a-way) switch, if one is installed.

13- Observe the four screws, in a squarepattern, through the armature plate. Twoof these screws pass through the laminatedcore and the armature plate into the power-head retainer. The other two pass justthrough the plate. Loosen these fourscrews. After the screws are loose, lift thearmature plate up the crankshaft and clearof the engine. If any oil is present on top ofthe armature plate, or on the points, the topseal MUST be replaced.Top Seal Replacement

Replacement of the top seal on a John-son/E vinrude engine is NOT a difficult task,with the proper tools: a seal remover and seal installer. NEVER attempt to removethe seal with screwdrivers, punch, pick, orother similar tool. Such action will mostlikely damage the collars in the powerhead.The special tools described in the text are almost a necessity to do a proper job. The toolsare usually available at the local John-son/Evinrude dealer at reasonable cost.

14- To remove the seal, first, work thepoint cam up and free of the dr iveshaft.

Next, remove the Woodruff key from thecrankshaft. A pair of side-cutters is ahandy tool for this job. Grasp the Woodruffkey with the side-cutters and use the lever-age of the pliers against the crankshaft toremove the key.

15- Work the special tool into the seal.Observe how the special tool is tapered andhas threads. Continue working and turningthe tool until it has a firm grip on the insideof the seal. Now, tighten the center screwof the puller against the end of the crank-shaft and the seal will begin to lift from thecollars. Continue turning this center screwuntil the seal can be raised manually fromthe crankshaft.

16- To install the new seal: Coat theinside diameter of the seal with a thin layerof oil. Apply OMC sealer to the outsidediameter of the seal. Slide the seal downthe crankshaft and start it into the recess ofthe powerhead. Use the special tool andwork the seal completely into place in therecess.

17- Install the Woodruff key into thecrankshaft. On some models, a pin was usedto locate the cam for the points. If the pinwas used, install it at this time. Oberve thedifference to the sides of the cam. Onalmost all cams, the word TOP is stampedon one side. Also, on some cams, the groove does not go all the way through. Therefore,it is very difficult to install the cam incor-rectly, with the wrong side up.

SERVICING 5-17

Slide the cam down the crankshaft withthe word TOP facing upward. Continueworking the cam down the crankshaft untilit is in place over the Woodruff key, or pin.

If the coil is not to be removed, proceeddirectly to Step 25. To remove the coil,perform the procedures in the followingsection.

Coil Removal from the Armature PlateThe armature plate must be removed as

described earlier in this section, Step 12 andStep 13. Notice how the coil has a laminat-ed core. The coil cannot be separated, thatis, the laminations from the core.

18- Turn the armature plate over andnotice how the high-tension leads are instal-led on the plate in a recess. The routing ofthe wires is misleading. The wire to theNo.1 spark plug is NOT connected to theNo.1 coil as might be expected.

19- Remove the three screws attachingthe coils to the armature plate.

5-18 IGNITION

FLYWHEEL

Exploded drawing of a typical magneto system. Only one coil and set of points is shown.

20- Hold the armature plate and separ-ate the coils from the plate. As the coil isseparated from the plate, observe the high-tension lead to the spark plug inside thecoil. Work the small boot, if used, and thehigh-tension lead from the coil.


Inspect the flywheel for cracks or otherdamage, especially around the inside of thecenter hub. Check to be sure metal partshave not become attached to the magnets.Verif y each magnet has good magnetism by using a screwdr iver or other tool.

Throughly clean the inside taper of theflywheel and the taper on the crankshaft toprevent the flywheel from "walking" on thecrankshaft while the engine is running.

Check the top seal around the crankshaftto be sure no oil has been leaking onto thearmature plate. If there is ANY evidencethe seal has been leaking, it MUST be re-placed, as outlined earlier in this section.

A coil burned where the high-tension lead enters thecoil on the bottom side. Arcing caused the damcge.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING 5-19

"'..,' .. BLOW,hi ~~Oll

A coil destroyed when the side blew out. Thisdamage was caused when 12-volts was connected to themagneto circuit at the key switch.

Test the armature plate to verify it isnot loose. Attempt to lift each side of theplate. There should be little or no evidenceof movement.

Clean the surface of the armature platewhere the points and condenser attach. In-stall a new condenser into the recess andsecure it with the hold-down screw.

A broken crankshaft and cracked flywheel damagedwhen the engine was operated at a high rpm with aflush attachment and garden hose connected to thelower unit.

Cracks in the flywheel hub caused by metal fatiguedue to flywheel construction and the inspection hole.This hole is no longer incorporated in late-model fly-wheels.

5-20 IGNITION

ASSEMBLING

Coil to Armature Plate 1- To install a new coil, first turn the

armature plate over, and loosen the sparkplug lead wires, and push them through thearmature plate. Now, work the leads intothe coil.

2- After the leads are into the coil,work the small boot up onto the coil. Applya coa ting of rubber seal material underneaththe boot, if a boot is used.

3- Start the three screws through thelaminated core into the armature plate, butDO NOT tighten them. If the engine beingserviced has a second coil, install the othercoil in the same manner.

4- Check to be sure the spark plug leadsare properly positioned in the coil and aresecurely attached to the bottom side of thearmature plate.

5- Toad just the coils: A special ringtool is required that fits down over the armature plate. This tool will properlylocate the coil in relation to the flywheel.Install this special tool over the armatureplate. Push outward on the coil and securethe two outer screws.

6- If a special ring tool is not available,and in a emergency, hold a straight edgeagainst the boss on the armature plate andbring the heel of the laminated core outsquare against the edge of the boss on thearmature plate. The ground wire for thecoil should be attached under the head ofthe top screw passing through the laminatedcore.

Wick Replacement 7- The wick, mounted in a bracket under

the coil, can be replaced without removingthe armature plate. The wick SHOULD bereplaced each and every time the breakerpoints are replaced. To replace the wick,simply loosen all three coil retaining screwsand remove the one screw through the wickholder. Lift the coil slightly and remove thewick and wick holder. Slide the new wickinto the holder; install the holder and wickunder the coil; and secure it in place withthe retaining screw. Adjust the coil asdescribed earlier in this section, Steps 5 and6, and tighten the three screws.

Armature Plate Installation 8- Slide the armature plate down over

the crankshaft and onto the engine. Alignthe screw holes in the armature plate withthe holes in the power head retainer. Afterthe armature plate is in place, install and

ASSEMBLING 5-21

tighten the two screws securing the arma-ture plate to the retainer. Now, take up onthe two screws through the laminated coreclosest to the crankshaft, but DO NOTtighten them at this time. Attach theadvance arm from the magneto to the towershaft arm.

GOOD WORDSAll engines covered in this manual use

the same set of points (Part No. 580148).The points MUST be assembled as they areinstalled. One side of each point set has hasthe base and is non-moveable. The otherside of the set has a moveable arm. A smallwire clip and a flat retainer are included ineach point set package.

9- Hold the base side of the points andthe flat retainer. Notice how the base has abar at right angle to the points. Observethe hole in the bar. Observe the flatretainer. Notice that one side has a slightindentation. When the points are installed,this indentation will slip into the hole in thebase bar.

5-22 IGNITION

Point Set 10- Install the condensers and secure

them in place with their hold-down screws.11- Hold the base side of the points and

slide it down over the anchor pin onto thearmature plate. Install the wavy washer andhold-down screw to secure the point base tothe armature plate. Tighten the hold-downscrew securely.

12- Hold the moveable arm and slide thepoints down over post, and at the sametime, hold back on the points and work thespring arm to the inside of the post of thebase points. Continue to work the points ondown into the base.

13- Observe the points. The pointsshould be together and the spring part of themoveable arm on the inside of the flat post.

14- Install the flat retainer onto the flatbar of the base points. Check to be sure theflat spring from the other side of the pointsis on the inside of the retainer. Push theretainer inward until the indentation slipsinto the hole in the base. The re tz.inerMUST be horizontal with the armatureplate.

15- Install the wire clip into the grooveof the post.

Repeat Steps No. 10 thru 15 for thesecond set of points.

CRITICAL WORDSAs the coil, condenser, and "kill" switch

wire are being attached to the point set,take the following precautions and adjust-ments:

a- The wire between the coil and thepoints should be tucked back under the coiland as far away from the crankshaft aspossible.

b- The condenser wire leaving the top ofthe condenser and connected to the pointset, should be bent downward to prevent theflywheel from making contact with thewire. A countless number of installationshave been made only to have the flywheelrub against the condenser wire and causefailure of the ignition system.

c- Check to be sure all wires connectedto the point set are bent downward towardthe armature plate. The wires MUST NOTtouch the plate. If any of the wires makecontact with the armature plate, the igni-tion system will be grounded and the enginewill fail to start.

16- Connect the wire leads to the set ofpoints.

Repeat all of these Critca1 Words for thesecond set of points.

GOOD WORDSThe point spring tension is predetermin-

ed at the factory and does not requireadjustment. Once the point set is properlyinstalled, all should be well. In most cases,breaker contact and alignment will not benecessary. If a slight alignment adjustmentshould be required, CAREFULLY bend theinsulated part of the point set.

ASSEMBLING 5-23

Before setting the breaker point gap, the pointsmust be properly aligned (top). ALWAYS bend thestationary point, NEVER the breaker lever. Attemptingto adjust an old worn set of points is not practicalbecause oxidation and pitting of the points will alwaysgive a false reading.

Point Adjustment 17- Install the flywheel nut onto the end

of the crankshaft. Now, turn the crankshaftclockwise and at the same time observe thecam on the crankshaft. Continue turningthe crankshaft until the rubbing block of thepoint set is at the high point of the cam. Atthis position, use a wire gauge or feelergauge and set the points at 0.020" for allmodels covered in this manual. A wiregauge will always give a more accurateadjustment than a feeler gauge. Work thegauge between the points and, at the sametime, turn the eccentric on the armatureplate until the proper adjustment (0.020") isobtained. Rotate the crankshaft a complete

5-24 IGNITION

revolution and again check the gap adjust-ment. After the crankshaft has been turnedand the points are on the high point of theca m, check to be sure the hold-down screwis tight against the base. There is enoughclearance to allow the eccentr ic on the basepoints to turn. If the hold-down screw istightened AFTER the point adjustment hasbeen made, it is very likely the adjustmentwill be changed. Follow the same proce-dure and adjust the other set of points.Remove the nut from the crankshaft.

Flywheel Installation 18- Check to be sure the flywheel mag-

nets are free of any metal parts. 19- Place the key in the crankshaft key-

way. Check to be sure the inside taper ofthe flywheel and the taper on the crankshaftare clean of dirt or oil, to prevent theflywheel from "walking" on the crankshaftwhile the engine is operat inz Slide thef lywheel down over the crank;haft with thekeyway in the flywheel aligned with the keyon the crankshaft.

2«)- Rotate the flywheel clockwise andcheck to be sure the flywheel does not

contact any part of the magneto or thewir mg,

21- Thread the flywheel nut onto thecrankshaft and tighten it to the torque valuegiven in the Appendix.

22- Place the ratchet for the starter ontop of the flvwheel and install the three7/16" screws" On some model engines, aplate retainer covers these screws. Onother model engines a very wide plate isused with a definite UP side and a DOWN

RATCHET

Plate installed on some engines covering the inspec-tion hole in the flywheel. The plate is clearly markedto indicate which side is to face upward during installa-tion.

side. When installing this plate, check to besure the word UP is facing upward.

23- After the ratchet plate has beeninstalled, install the hand starter over theflywheel. Check to be sure the ratchetengages the flywheel properly.

24- Set the gap on each spark plug at0.030".

25- Install the spark plugs and tightenthem to the torque value given in thefollowing table.

Connect the battery leads to the batteryterminals, if a battery is used with a startermotor to crank the engine.

This particular engine differs from the text proce-dures because a washer is installed under the flywheelnut.

ASSEMBLING 5-25

HP YEAR SPARK PLUGTORQUE

(INCH-LBS)

1.5 1968-70 210-2463.0 1956-68 240-2464.0 1969-70 210-2465.0 1965-68 210-2465.5 1956-64 240-2466.0 1965-70 210-2467.5 1956-58 240-2469.5 1965-70 210-24610 1956-63 240-24615 1956 240-24618 1957-70 210-24620 1966-70 210-24625 1969-70 210-24628 1962-64 240-24630 1956 240-24633 1965-70 240-24635 1957-59 240-24640 1960-70 240-246

FEELERGAUGE ~

5-26 IGNITION

5-8 SYNCHRONIZATION FUEL AND IGNITION SYSTEMS

Timing is NOT adjustable with a flywheelmagneto system. The timing is controlledby the point setting. The correct pointsetting for ALL engines covered in thismanual is 0.020". The fuel and ignitionsystems MUST be carefully synchronized toachieve maximum performance from the en-gine. In simple terms, synchronization istiming the carburetion to the ignition. Thismeans, as the throttle is advanced to in-crease engine rpm, the carburetor and igni-tion systems are both advanced equally andat the same rate.

Therefore, any time the fuel system orthe ignition system is serviced to replace afaulty part, or any adjustments are made forany reason, the engine synchronization mustbe carefully checked and verified.

Before making any adjustments with thesynchronization, the ignition system shouldbe thoroughly checked according to the pro-cedures outlined in this chapter and the fuelchecked according to the procedures out-lined in Chapter 4.

PRIMARY PICKUP ADJUSTMENTSAND LOCATIONS

To properly adjust the synchronization,numbered primary adjustment and locationsare used. These numbers are referenced inthe Appendix under Tune-up Specifications.The adjustments are numberd from I thru 4

and the locations are numbered 5 thru 9.The number to be used is taken from thetable by following across from the firstcolumn for the engine being serviced to thecolumn titled Primary Pickup Location andthe column titles Primary P/U AdjustmentNote. Therefore, from the Appendix twonumbers will be obtained: One for thelocation of the primary adjustment and theother indicating the method of making theadjustment.

GOOD WORDSWhen making the synchronization adjust-

ment, it is well to know and understandexactly what to look for and why. Thecritical time when the throttle shaft in thecarburetor begins to move is of the utmostimportance. First, realize that the time thecam follower makes contact with the cam isnot the time the throttle shaft starts tomove. Instead, the critical time is when thefollower hits the designated position (asdescribed in the next five paragraphs) andthe throttle shaft AT THE CARBURETORbegins to move.

A considerable amount of play existsbetween the follower at the top of thecarburetor through the linkage to the actualthrottle shaft. Therefore, the most import-ant consideration is to watch for movementof the THROTTLE SHAFT, and not the fol-lower. Movement of the shaft can be exag-gerated by attaching a short piece of stiffwire to an alligator clip; grinding down theteeth on one side of the clip; and thenattaching the clip to the throttle shaft, asshown. The wire jiggling will instantly indi-ca te movement of the shaft.

Almost all of the photographs were tak-en with the flywheel removed for clarity.Normally the synchronization is set with theflywheel installed.

EXAMPLEIf the engine being serviced is a 25 hp,

1970, then the primary pickup location num-ber obtained from the Appendix is 8 and theprimary pickup adjustment note is 4. In thiscase:

Perform No.8 Location procedures.Method of adjustment is No.4.

The following paragraphs describe thelocation in detail and given specific instruc-tions as to exactly how the synchronizationis to be made.

The No.5 Location 1- The pickup location for the No.5

location is PORT side of the mark. Thismeans that the pickup on the carburetorarm should be just to the PORT side of themark on the cam. To obtain this position,the cam, or the cam follower, is to beadjusted until pickup is at the proper loca-tion and the throttle shaft just begins tomove.

2- Movement of the shaft can be exag-gerated by attaching a short piece of stiffwire to an alligator dip; grinding down theteeth on one side of the clip; and thenattaching the dip to the throttle shaft, as

SYNCHRONIZATION 5-27

shown. The wire jiggling will instantly in-dicate movement of the shaft. The actualadjustment is accomplished by ONLY ONEmethod, depending on the engine being ser-viced. Check the Appendix for the ad-justment to be performed. The referencenumbers are listed in the Appendix underPrimary Pickup Adjustment Note.

3- Per Note 1 in the Appendix, loosenthe two screws under the armature plateand move the primary pickup inward or out-ward to meet the follower.

The No. 6 Location 4- Engines referenced in the Appendix

to the No.6 Primary Pickup Location are tobe adusted to the STARBOARD side of themark. To obtain this position, the cam, orthe cam follower, (depending the type ofengine being serviced), is to be adjusteduntil pickup is at the proper location and thethrottle shaft just begins to move. Move-ment of the shaft can be exaggerated byattaching a short piece of stiff wire to analligator dip; grinding down the teeth on

5-28 IGNITION

one side of the clip; and then attaching theclip to the throttle shaft, as shown. Thewire jiggling will instantly indicate move-m ent of the shaft. The actual adjustment isaccomplished by ONLY ONE method, re-gardless of the engine being serviced for theNo.6 location. Check the Appendix for theadjustment to be performed. The referencenumbers are listed in the Appendix underPrimary Pickup Adjustment Note.

5- Per Note I in the Appendix, loosenthe two screws under the armature plateand move the primary pickup inward or out-ward to meet the follower.

The No. 7 Location6- Engines referenced to No.7 are to be

adjusted to the CENTER of the mark. Toobtain this position, the cam, or the camfollower, (depending the type of engine be-ing serviced), is to be adjusted until pickupis at the proper location and the throttleshaft just begins to move.

7- Movement of the shaft can be exag-gerated by attaching a short piece of stiffwire to an alligator clip; grinding down the

teeth on one side of the clip; and thenattaching the clip to the throttle shaft, asshown. The wire jiggling will instantly in-dicate movement of the shaft. The actualadjustment is accomplished by ONLY ONEof two means, depending on the engine beingserviced. Check the Appendix for the ad-justment to be performed. The referencenumbers are listed in the Appendix underPrimary Pickup Adjustment Note.


9- Per Note 2 in the Appendix, loosenthe center screw on the throttle lever andmove the lever inward or outward to matchthe line on the cam. This applies only to the9.5 hp models.

The No. 8 Location 10- Engines referenced to the No.8 lo-

cation are to be adjusted with the camfollower midway between the two marks onthe cam, at the moment the throttle shaftat the carburetor begins to move. Themarks on the cam are about 1/4" apart.

11- Movement of the shaft can be exag-gerated by attaching a short piece of stiffwire to an alligator clip; grinding down theteeth on one side of the clip; and thenattaching the clip to the throttle shaft, asshown. The wire jiggling will instantly indi-cate movement of the shaft. The actualadjustment is accomplished by ONLY ONE of two means, depending on the engine beingserviced. Check the Appendix for the ad-justment to be performed. The referencenumbers are listed in the Appendix underPrimary Pickup Adjustm ent Note.

SYNCHRONIZATION 5-29


13- Per Note 4 in the Appendix, loosenthe clamp on the throttle shaft and movethe roller to meet the armature cam.

5-30 IGNITION

The No.9 Location 14- Engines referenced to the No.9 lo-

cation have a pointer attached to the intakemanifold. Synchronization is made by ad-vancing the magneto until the mark on thecam is aligned with the pointer on theintake manifold. At this point the throttleshaft should just begin to move.

15- Movement of the shaft can be exag-gerated by attaching a short piece of stiff wire to an alligator clip; grinding down theteeth on one side of the dip; and thenattaching the clip to the throttle shaft, asshown. The wire jiggling will instantly indi-cate movement of the shaft. The actualadjustment is accomplished by ONLY ONEof three means, depending on the enginebeing serviced. Check the Appendix for theadjustment to be performed. The reference

numbers are listed in the Appendix underPrimary Pickup Adjustment Note.


17- Per Note 3 in the Appendix, loosenthe eccentric lock screw on the throttleshaft and turn the eccentric to move theroller to meet the armature cam.

18- Per Note 4 in the Appendix, loosenthe clamp on the throttle shaft and movethe roller to meet the armature cam.

6ELECTRICAL

6-1 INTRODUCTION

The battery, gauges and horns, chargingsystem, and the cranking system are allconsidered subsystems of the electrical sys-tem. Each of these units or subsystems willbe covered in detail in this chapter begin-ning with the battery.

All engines covered in this manual usethe magneto ignition system and a battery isnot required to operate the engine. Most ofthe larger horsepower units use a crankingmotor for starting and the battery is onlyused to supply power for this motor.

The starting circuit consists of a crank-ing motor and a starter-engaging mecha-nism. A solenoid is used as a heavy-dutyswitch to carry the heavy current from thebattery to the starter motor. The solenoidis actuated by turning the ignition key tothe START position. On some models, apushbutton is used to actuate the solenoid.

These engines are also equipped with ahand starter for use when the electric start-er motor system is inoperative.

6-2 BATTERIES

The battery is one of the most importantparts of the electrical system. In additionto providing electrical power to start theengine, it also provides power for operationof the the running lights, radio, electrical accessories, and possibly the pump for a baittank.

Because of its job and the consequences,(failure to perform in an emergency) thebest advice is to purchase a well-knownbrand, with an extended warranty period,from a reputable dealer.

The usual warranty covers a proratedreplacement policy, which means you wouldbe entitled to a consideration for the timeleft on the warranty period if the batteryshould prove defective before its time.

Do not consider a battery of less than70-ampere hour capacity. If in doubt as tohow large your boat requires, make a liberalestimate and then purchase the one with thenext higher ampere rating.

MARINE BATTERIES

Because marine batteries are required toperform under much more rigorous condi-tions than automotive batteries, they areconstructed much differently than thoseused in automobiles or trucks. Therefore, amarine battery should always be the No. 1unit for the boat and other types of batter-ies used only in an emergency.

Marine batteries have a much heavierexterior case to withstand the violentpounding and shocks imposed on it as theboat moves through rough water and inextremely tight turns.

The plates in marine batteries are thick-er than in automotive batteries and each

A fUlly charged battery, filled to the proper levelwith electrolyte, is the heart of the ignition system.Engine starting and efficient performance can never beobtained if the battery is below a fully charged rating.

6-2 ELECTRICAL

plate is securely anchored within the bat-tery case to ensure extended life.

The caps of marine batteries are "spillproof" to prevent acid from spilling into thebilges when the boat heels to one side in atight turn, or is moving through rough wa-ter.

Because of these features, the marinebattery will recover from a low chargecondition and give satisfactory service overa much longer period of time than any typeof automotive-type unit.

BATIERY CONSTRUCTION

A battery consists of a number of pos-itive and negative plates immersed in asolution of diluted sulfuric acid. The platescontain dissimilar active materials and arekept apart by separators. The plates aregrouped into what are termed elements.Plate straps on top of each element connectall of the positive plates and all of thenegative plates into groups. The battery isdivided into cells which hold a number ofthe elements apart from the others. Theentire arrangement is contained within ahard-rubber case. The top is a one-piececover and contains the filler caps for each cell. The terminal posts protrude throughthe top where the battery connections forthe boat are made. Each of the cells isconnected to its neighbor in a positive-to-negative manner with a heavy strap calledthe cell connector.

The battery MUST be located near the engine in awell-ventilated area. It must be secured in such amanner that absolutely no movement is possible in anydirection under the most violent actions of the boat.

BATTERY RATINGS

Two ratings are used to classify batter-ies: one is a20-hour rating at 80°F and theother is a cold rating at OOF. This secondfigure indicates the cranking load capacitvand is referred to as the Peak Wa.tt Ratingof a battery. This Peak Watt Rating (PWR)has been developed to measure the cold-cranking ability of the battery. The numeri-cal rating is embossed on each battery caseat the base and is determined by multiplyingthe maximum current by the maximum vol t-age.

The ampere-hour rating of a battery isits capacity to furnish a given amount ofamperes over a per ioe' of time at a cellvoltage of 1.5. Therefore, a battery with acapaci ty of maintaining 3 amperes for 20hours at 1.5 volts would be classified as a60-ampere hour battery.

Do not confuse the ampere-hour ratingwith the PWR, because they are two un-related figures used for e'ifferent purposes.

A replacement battery should have apower rating equal or as close to the oldunit as possible.

BA TIERY LOCATION

Every battery installed in a boat must besecured in a well-protected vent ilatec' area.If the battery area is not well ventilated,hydrogen gas which is given off duringcharging could become very explosive if thegas is concentrated and confined. Becauseof its size, weight, and acid content, thebattery must be well-secured. If the bat-tery should break loose during rough boatmaneuvers, considerable damage could bedone, including damage to the hull.

BATTERY SERVICE

The battery requires periodic ser vicrnzand a definite maintenance program to en-sure extended life. If the battery shouldtest satisfactorily, but still fails to performproperly, one of four problems could be thecause.

1- An accessory might have accidentlybeen left on overnight or for a long periodduring the day. Such an oversight wouldresul t in a discharged battery.

2- Slow speed engine operation for longperiods of time resulting in an undercharged condition. .

3- Using more electrical power than thegenerator or al ternator can replace resul t-ing in an undercharged condition.

4- A defect in the charging system. Afaul ty generator or al ternator system, adefective regulator, or high resistancesomewhere in the system, could cause thebattery to become undercharged.

5- Failure to maintain the battery ingood order. This might indude a low levelof electrolyte in the cells; loose or dirtycable connections at the battery terminals;or possibly an excessivel y dirty battery top.

Electrol yte LevelThe most common practice of checking

the electrol yte level in a battery is toremove the cell cap and visually observe thelevel in the vent well. The bottom of eachvent well has a split vent which will causethe surface of the electrolyte to appeardistorted when it makes contact. When thedistortion first appears at the bottom of thesplit vent, the electrolyte level is correct.

Some late-model batteries have an elec-trolyte-level indicator installed which oper-ates in the following manner:

A transparent rod extends through thecenter of one of the cell caps. The lower

One of the most effective means of cleaning thebattery terminals is to use a wire brush designed forthis specific purpose,

BATTERY SERVICE 6-3

tip of the rod is immersed in the electrolytewhen the level is correct. If the levelshould drop below normal, the lower tip ofthe rod is exposed and the upper end glowsas a warn ing to add water. Such a device isonly necessary on one cell cap because ifthe electrolyte is low in one cell it is alsolow in the other cells. BE SURE to replacethe cap with the indicator onto the secondcell from the positive terminal.

During hot weather and periods of heavyuse, the electrolyte level should be checkedmore often than during normal operation.Add colorless, odorless, drinking water tobring the level of electrolyte in each cell tothe proper level. TAKE CARE not tooverfill, because adding an excessiveamount of water will cause loss of electro-lyte and any loss will result in poor perform-ance, short battery life, and will contributequickly to corrosion. NEVER add electro-lyte from another battery. Use only deanpure water.

CleaningDirt and corrosion should be deaned

from the battery just as soon as it is dis-covered. Any accumulation of acid film ordirt will permit current to flow between theterminals. Such a current flow will drainthe battery over a period of time.

Clean the exterior of the battery with asolution of diluted ammonia or a soda solu-tion to neutralize any acid which may bepresent. Flush the deaning solution offwith dean water. TAKE CARE to preventany of the neutralizing solution from enter-ing the cells, by keeping the caps tight.

A poor contact at the terminals will add

An inexpensive brush can be rnrchased and used toclean battery lead connectors to ensure a proper con-nection.

6-4 ELECTRICAL

resistance to the charging circuit. Thisresistance will cause the voltage regulatorto register a fully charged battery, and thuscut down on the alternator output adding tothe low battery charge problem.

Scrape the battery posts dean with asuitable tool or with a stiff wire brush.Clean the inside of the cable damps to be sure they do not cause any resistance in thecircuit.

Battery TestingA hydrometer is a device to measure the

percentage of sulfuric acid in the batteryelectrolyte in terms of specific gravity.When the condition of the battery dropsfrom fully charged to discharged, the acidleaves the solution and enters the plates,causing the specific gravity of the electro-1yte to drop.

The following six points should be ob-served when using a hydrometer.

1- NEVER attempt to take a readingimmediately after adding water to the bat-tery. Allow at least 1/1+ hour of charging ata high rate to thoroughly mix the electro-lyte with the new water and to cause vigor-ous gassing.

2- ALWAYS be sure the hydrometer isdean inside and out as a precaution againstcontaminating the electrolyte.

3- If a t herm omet er is an intez ral partof the hydrometer, draw liquid into it sever-al times to ensure the correct temperaturebefore taking a reading.

4- BE SURE to hold the hydrometervertically and suck up liquid only until the float is free and floating.

A pair of pliers should be used to tighten the'wingnuts, when they are used. Securing the wingnuts byhand is not adequate, the connections will vibrate loose.

5- ALWAYS hold the hydrometer at eyelevel and take the reading at the surface ofthe liquid with the float free and floating.

Disregard the light curvature appearingwhere the liquid rises against the floatstem. This phenomenon is due to surfacetension.

6- DO NOT drop any of the batteryfluid on the boat or on your clothing, it isextremely caustic. Use water and bakingsoda to neutralize any battery liquid thatdoes accidently drop.

After withdrawing electrolyte from thebattery cell until the float is barely free,note the level of the liquid inside the hydro-meter. If the level is within the green bandrange, the condition of the battery is satis-factory. If the level is within the whiteband, the battery is in fair condition, and ifthe level is in the red band, it needs charg-ing badl y or is dead and should be replaced.If the level fails to rise above the red bandafter charging, the only answer is to replacethe battery.

A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be on the maintenance schedule for any boat. A hydrom-eter reading of 1.300 or in the green band, indicat~s th.e ~battery is in satisfactory condition. If the readmg is1.150 or in the red band, the battery needs to becharged. Observe the six safety points given in the textwhen using a hydrometer.

JUMPER CABLES

If booster batt er ies are usee for startingan engine the jumper cables must be con-nected correctly and in the proper sequenceto prevent damage to either battery, or tothe al ternator diodes.

ALWAYS connect a cable from the posi-tive terminal of the dead battery to thepositive terminal of the good battery FIRST.NEXT, connect one end of the other cable tothe negative terminal of the good batteryand the other end to the ENGINE for a good ground. By making the ground connectionon the engine, if there is an arc when you make the connection it will not he near thebattery. An arc near the battery couldcause an explosion, destroying the batteryand causing serious personal INJURY.

DISCONNECT the battery ~rouncl cablebefore replacing an alternator or beforeconnecting any type of meter to the al ter-nator ,

If it is necessary to use a fast-charger ona. dead battery, ALWAYS disconnect one ofthe boat cables from the battery FIRST, toprevent burning out the c'iodes in the recti-fier.

NEVER use a fast-charger as a boosterto start the engine because the voltageregulator may be DAMAGED.

STORAGE

If the boat is to be laic up for the winteror for more than a few weeks, special

Corroded battery terminals such as these result inhigh resistance at the connections. Such corrosionplaces a strain on all electrically operated devices onthe boat and causes hard engine starting.

BATTERY SERVICE 6-5

attention rr-ust be giver, to the battery toprevent complete discharge or possible darr--age to the terminals and wiring. Beforeputting the boat in storage, disconnect andremove the batter ies. Clean them thor-oughly of any dirt or corrosion, and thencharge them to full specific gravity reading,After they are fully charged, store t herr- ina dean cool dry place where they will notbe damaged or knocked over.

NEVER store the battery with anvthinzon top of it or cover the battery in such amanner as to prevent air from circulatingaround the filler caps. All batteries, bothnew and old, will discharge during periods ofstorage, more so if they are hot than if theyremain cool. Therefore, the electrolytelevel and the specific gravity should bechecked at regular intervals. A drop in thespecific gravity reading is cause to chargethem back to a full reading.

In cold climates, care should be exer-cised in selecting the battery storage area.A fully-charged battery ",'ill freeze at about60 dearees below zero. A discharged bat-tery, almost dead, will have ice forming atabout 19 degrees above zero.

DUAL BATTERY INSTALLATION

Three methods are available for utilizinga dual-battery hook-up.

A common set of heavy-duty jumper cables. Ob-serve the safety precautions given in the text whenusing jumper cables.

6-6 ELECTRICAL

0 ·0 ·0 0 lO111111.1 ••• 11111.'1 "'1'1'111111111" "11'1""111'1111

111 ••••• 11 •••••••• 11I.111I11t •••••••

0 0 0 0 011111111111 ••••• 1' .,1111111 • ., ••• " ••••••••••••••• 1.1

••••••••••• 1111111. •• 111 •••••••• 1111 •

o. 0 • 0., 0

Schematic drawing of a three battery, two enginehookup.

1- A high-capacity switch can be usee toconnect the two batteries. The accom-panying illustration details the connectionsfor installation of such a swit ch, This typeof switch installation has the advantage ofbeing simple, inexpensive, and easy tomount and hookup. However , if the switchis accidently left in the dosed position, itwill cause the convenience loads to rundown both batteries and the advantage of the dual installation is lost. The switch maybe dosed intentionally to take advantage of

Schematic drawing for a two battery, one enginehookup.

Sche matic drawing for Q two battery, two enginehookup.

the extra capacity of the two batteries, orit may be temporarily dosed to help startthe engine under adverse conditions.

2- A relay, can be connecter' into theignition circuit to enable both batteries tobe autornati cally put in parallel for chargingor to isolate them for ignition use duringengine cranking and start. By connectingthe relay coil to the ignition terminal of the

j "

ignition-starting switch, the relay will doseduring the start to aid the starting battery. If the second battery is allowed to run down,

Schematic drawing for a single battery, one enginehookup.

this arrangement can be a disadvantagesince it will draw a load from the starting battery while cranking the engine. One wayto avoid such a condition is to connect therelay coil to the ignition switch accessoryterminal. When connected in this manner,while the engine is being cranked, the relayis open. But when the engine is running withthe ignition switch in the normal position,the relay is dosed, and the second battery isbeing charged at the same time as thestarting battery.

3- A heavy duty switch installed as closeto the batteries as possible can be connect-ed between them. If such an arrangement isused, it must meet the standards of theAmerican Boat and Yacht Council, Inc. orthe Fire Protection Standard for MotorCraft, N.F.P.A. No. 302.

6-3 GAUGES AND HORNS

Gauges or lights are installed to warnthe operator of a condition in the coolingand lubrication systems that may need at-tention. The fuel gauge gives an indicationof the amount of fuel in the tank. If theengine overheats, a warning light will comeon or a horn sound advising the operator toshut down the engine and check the cause of the warning before serious damage is done.

CONSTANT-VOLTAGE SYSTEM

In order for gauges to register properly,they must be supplied with a steady voltage. The voltage variations produced by the en-gine charging system would ca.use erraticgauge operation, too high when the genera-tor or alternator voltage is high, and too lowwhen the generator or al ternator is notcharging. To remedy this problem, a cons-tant- voltage system is used to reduce the12-14 volts of the electrical system to anaverage of 5 vol ts. This steady 5 vol tsensures the gauges will read accurately un-der varying conditions from the electricalsystem.

6-4 SERVICE PROCEDURES

Systems utilizing warning lights do notrequire a constant-voltage system, there-fore, this service is not needed.

Service procedures for checking thegauges and their sending units is detailed inthe following sections.

GAUGES AND HORNS 6-7

TEMPERATURE GAUGES

The body of temperature gauges must begrounded and they must be supplied with 12volts. Many gauges have a terminal on themounting bracket for attaching a groundwire. A tang from the mounting bracketmakes contact with the gauge. CHECK tobe sure the tang does make good contactwith the gauge.

Ground the wire to the sending unit andthe needle of the gauge should move to thefull right position indicating the gauge is inserviceable condition.

See Chapter 3, to test the sender unit.

WARNING LIGHTS

If a problem arises on a boat equippedwith water and temperature lights, the firstarea to check is the light assembly for loosewires or burned-out bulbs.

When the ignition key is turned on, thelight assembly is supplied with 12 volts andgrounded through the sending unit mounted on the engine. When the sending unit makt:;scontact because the water temperature IStoo hot, the circuit to ground is completedand the lamp should light.

Check The Bulb: Turn the ignition switchon. Disconnect the wire at the enginesending unit, and then ground the wire. The

The gauges and controls on the dashboard should bekept clean and protected from water spray, especiallywhen operating in a salt water atmosphere.

6-8 ELECTRICAL

lamp on the dash should light. If it does notlight, check for a burned-out bulb or a breakin the wiring to the light.

THERMOMELT STICKS

Thermomel t sticks are an easy methodof determining if the engine is running atthe proper temperature. Thermomelt sticksare not expensive and are available at yourlocal mar ine dealer.

Start the engine with the propeller in thewater and run it for about 5 minutes atroughly 3000 rpm.

CAUTION: Water must circulate throughthe lower unit to the engine any time the en-gine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five secondswithout water will damage the water pump.

The 140 degree stick should melt whenyou touch it to the lower thermostat housingor on the top cylinder. If it does not melt,the thermostat is stuck in the open positionand the engine temperature is too low.

Touch the 170 degree stick to the samespot on the lower thermostat housing or onthe top cylinder. The stick should not melt.If it does, the thermostat is stuck in theclosed position or the water pump is notoperating properly because the engine isrunning too hot. For service procedures onthe cooling system, see Chapter 8.

A thermomelt stick is a quick, simple, inexpensive,and fairly accurate method to determine engine runningtemperature.

6-5 FUEL SYSTEM

FUEL GAUGE

The fuel gauge is intended to indicatethe quantity of fuel in the tank. As theexperienced boatman has learned, the gaugereading is seldom an accurate report of thefuel available in the tank. The main reasonfor this false reading is because the boat israrely on an even keel. A considerabledifference in fuel quantity will be indicatedby the gauge if the bow or stern is heavy, orif the boat has a list to port or starbaord,

Therefore, the reading is usually low.The amount of fuel drawn from the tank isdependent on the location of the fuel pickuptube in the tank. The engine may cutoutwhile cruising because the pickup tube isabove of the fuel level. Instead of assumingthe tank is empty, shift weight in the boatto change the trim and the problem may be'solved until you are able to take on more fuel.

FUEL GAUGE HOOKUP

The Boating Industry Association recom-mends the following color coding be used onall fuel gauge installations:

Black -- for all grounded current-carry-ing conductors.

Pink -- insula ted wire for the fuel gaugesending unit to the gauge.

Red -- insula ted wire for a connectionfrom the positive side of the battery to any electr ical equipment.

Connect one end of a pink insulated wireto the terminal on the gauge marked TANKand the other end to the terminal on top of the tank unit.

Connect one end of a black wire to theterminal on the fuel gauge marked IGN and the other end to the ignition switch.

IGNITIONSWITCH •••• TTERT

TANK GROUNDEDTHROUGH FRAME

Schematic for a safe fuel tank gauge hookup.

Connect one end of a second black wireto the fuel gauge terminal marked GRD andthe other end to a good ground. It isimportant for the fuel gauge case to have agood common ground with the tank unit.Aboard an all-metal boat, this ground wireis not necessary. However, if the dashboardis insulated, or made of wood or plastic, awire MUST be run from the gauge groundterminal to one of the bolts securing thesending unit in the fuel tank, and then fromthere to the NEGATIVE side of the battery.

FUEL GAUGE TROUBLESHOOTING

In order for the fuel gauge to operateproperly the sending unit and the receivingunit must be of the same type and prefer-ably of the same make.

The following symptoms and possiblecorrective actions will be helpful in restor-ing a faulty fuel gauge circuit to properoperation.

If you suspect the gauge is not operatingproperly, the first area to check is allelectrical connections from one end to theother. Be sure they are clean and tight.

Next, check the common ground wirebetween the negative side of the battery,the fuel tank, and the gauge on the dash.

If all wires and connections in the circui tare in good condition, remove the sendingunit from the tank. Run a wire from thegauge mounting flange on the tank to theflange of the sending unit. Now, move thefloat up-and-down to determine if the re-ceiving unit operates. If the sending unitdoes not appear to operate, move the float to the midway point of its travel and see ifthe receiving unit indicates half full.

If the pointer does not move from theEMPTY position one of four faults could be to blame:

1- The dash receiving un: ~ is not proper-ly grounded.

2- No voltage at the dash receiving unit.3- Negative meter connections are on a

posi tive grounded system. 4- Positive meter connections are on a

negative grounded system.If the pointer fails to move from the

FULL position, the problem could be one of three faul ts.

1- The tank sending unit is not properlygrounded. -

2- Improper connection between thetank sending unit and the receiving unit on

FUEL SYSTEM 6-9

the dash. 3- The wire from the gauge to the igni-

tion switch is connected at the wrong term-inal.

If the pointer remains at the 3/4 fullmark, it indicates a six-volt gauge is install-ed in a 12-vol t system.

If the pointer remains at about 3/8 full,it indicates a 12-volt gauge is installed in a six-volt system.

Preliminary InspectionInspect all of the Wiring in the circuit

for possible damage to the insulation orconductor. Carefully check:

1- Ground connections at the receivingunit on the dash.

2- Harness connector to the dash unit. 3- Body harness connector to the chassis

harness. 4- Ground connection from the fuel tank

to the tank floor pan. 5- Feed wire connection at the tank

sending unit.

GAUGE ALWAYS READS FULL when theignition switch is ON:

1- Check the electrical connections atthe receiving unit on the dash; the bodyharness connector to chassis harness con-nector; and the tank unit connector in thetank.

2- Make a continuity check of theground wire from the tank to the tank floorpan.

3- Connect a known good tank unit tothe tank feed wire and the ground lead.Raise and lower the float and observe thereceiving unit on the dash. If the dash unitfollows the arm movement, replace the tanksending unit.

GAUGE ALWAYS READS EMPTY whenthe ignition switch is ON:

Disconnect the tank unit feed wire anddo not allow the wire terminal to ground.The gauge on the dash should read FULL.

If Gauge Reads Empty: 1- Connect a spare dash unit into the

dash unit harness connector and ground theunit. If the spare unit reads FULL, theor iginal unit is shorted and must be replac-ed.

2- A reading of EMPTY indicate ashort in the harness between the tank send-ing unit and the gauge on the dash.

6-10 ELECTRICAL

H Gauge Reads Full: 1- Connect a known good tank sending

unit to the tank feed wire and the groundlead.

2- Raise and lower the float while ob-serving the dash gauge. If dash gaugefollows movement of the float, replace thetank sending unit.

GAUGE NEVER INDICATES FULL This test requires shop test equipment. 1- Disconnect the feed wire to the tank

unit and connect the wire to a good groundthrough a var iable resistor or through aspare tank unit.

2- Observe the dash gauge reading. Thereading should be FULL when resistance isincreased to about 90 ohms. This resistance would simulate a full tank.

3- If the check indicates the dash gaugeis operating properly, the trouble is either inthe tank sending unit rheostat being shorted,or the float is binding. The arm could bebent, or the tank may be deformed. Inspectand correct the problem.

6-6 TACHOMETER

An accurate tachometer can be installedon any engine. Such an instrument provides an indication of engine speed in revolutionsper minute (rpm). This is accomplished by measuring the number of electr ical pulsesper minute generated in the primary circuitof the ignition system.

The meter readings range from 0 to6,000 rpm, in increments of 100. Tachome-ters have solid-state electronic circuitswhich eliminates the need for relays or

Maximum engine performance can only be obtainedthrough proper tuning using a tachometer.

batter ies and contributes to their accuracy.The electronic parts of the tachometer sus-ceptible to moisture are coated to prolongtheir life.

6-7 HORNS

The only reason for servicing a horn isbecause it fails to operate properly or be-cause it is out of tune. In most cases, theproblem can be traced to an open circuit inthe wiring or to a defective relay.

Cleaning:Crocus cloth and carbon tetrachloride

should be used to clean the contact points.NEVER force the contacts apart or you willbend the contact spring and change theoperating tension.

Check Relay and Wiring:Connect a wire from the battery to the

horn terminal. If the horn operates, theproblem is in the relay or in the horn wiring.If both of these appear satisfactory, thehorn is defective and needs to be replaced.

Before replacing the horn however, con-nect a second jumper wire from the hornframe to ground to check the ground con-nection.

LOCKNUT

The tone of a horn can be adjusted with a 0.007"feeler gauge, as described in the text. TAKE CARE toprevent the feeler gauge from making contact with thecase, or the circuit will be shorted out.

Test the winding for an open circuit,faulty insulation, or poor ground. Check theresistor with an ohmmeter, or test the con-denser for capacity, ground, and leakage.Inspect the diaphragm for cracks.

Adjust Hom ToneLoosen the locknut, and then rotate the

adjusting screw until the desired tone isreached. On a dual horn installation, dis-connect one horn and adjust each, one-at-a-time. The contact point adjustment is madeby inserting a 0.007" feeler gauge bladebetween the adjusting nut and the contactblade insulator. TAKE CARE not to allowthe feeler gauge to touch the metallic partsof the contact points because it would shortthem out. Now, loosen the locknut and turnthe adjusting nut down until the horn fails tosound. Loosen the adjusting nut slowly untilthe horn barely sounds. The locknut MUSTbe tightened after each test. When thefeeler gauge is withdrawn the horn willoperate properly and the current draw willbe satisfactory.

Small horsepower engines use a hand starter insteadof an electric starter motor. The hand starter may bemounted on top of the engine or on the side, dependingon the model.

GENERAL INFORMATION 6-11

6-8 ELECTRICAL SYSTEMGENERAL ~FORMATION

Probably 75-80% of all Johnson/Evinrudeengines covered in this manual are startedby pulling on a rope. As the manufacturerincreased the size and horsepower of theengines, it was necessary to incorporatesome form of power cranking system inaddition to the rope starter method. To-day, most small engines are still startedonly by pulling on a rope.

On the larger hp engines, an electricstarter motor coupled with a mechanicalgear mesh between the cranking motor andthe engine flywheel, similar to the methodused to crank an automobile engine, wasadded. This system provided an alternatemethod to the hand starter rope arrange-ment. If the electric cranking system isinoperative for any reason, including a deador weak battery, the engine may still becranked and started by hand.

Since the starting motor requires a largeamount of electrical current, it is necessaryto have a fully charged battery available forthe starting system. If the boat is equippedwith several electrical accessories, such asbait tank with circulating pump, radio, anumber of running and accessory lights etc.,the char ging system must be performingproperly to keep the battery charged.

Charging CircuitThe charging circuit consists of a gener-

ator driven by a belt connected to theflywheel. The flywheel is equipped with apulley arrangem ent to transfer flywheel ro-tation to the generator puller through thebelt.

Choke CircuitThe choke is activated by a solenoid.

This solenoid attracts a plunger to close thechoke valves. The solenoid is energizedwhen the ignition key is turned to theSTART position and the choke button isdepressed. When using the electric choke,the manual choke MUST be in the NEUTRALposition.

Only the electric choke is covered in thischapter. Service procedures for the heat/electric choke, and the water choke, arepresented in Chapter 4.Starting Circuit

The starting circuit consists of a crank-ing motor and a starter-engaging mecha-nism. A solenoid is used as a heavy-duty

6-12 ELECTRICAL

switch to carry the heavy current from thebattery to the starter motor. The solenoidis actuated by turning the ignition key tothe START position. On some models, apushbutton is used to actuate the solenoid.See Section 6-11 for detailed service pro-cedures on the starter motor circuit.

6-9 CHARGING CIRCUIT SERVICE

The generator has two terminals on thelower end. One terminal is larger than theother and the wires connected have differ-ent size connectors to ensure the properwire is connected to the correct terminal.

If several electrical accessories are usedand the engine is operating at idle speed, orbelow 1500 rpm for extended per iods oftime, the battery will not recieve adequatecurrent to remain in serviceable condition.

The rated capacity of the generator is10-amps. Therefore, the electrical acces-sory load should not exceed lO-amps orcurrent will be drawn from the battery at agreater rate than the generator is able toproduce. Such a negative draw on thebattery w ill result in a run-down conditionand failure of the battery to provide therequired current to the starter for crankingthe engine.

To calculate the amperage draw of anaccessory the following simple formula maybe used: Amps equals watts divided byvolts. Amps = Watts

Volts

Front view of a Jolmson outboard with the generatormounted on the port side.

The volts will always be 12. Accessorieswill usually be given in watts. If the obso-lete measurement of candle power is used,then one candle power is equal to approxi-mately one watt. Example: A boat hasrunning lights requiring 8-watts; auxiliarylights use 10 watts; and a radio rated at 30-watts.

Amps = 48 Watts/12 volts = 4 Amps.In this case, if all the lights are on and

the radio is being used, the total draw onthe battery would be 4 amps. If the engineis running at 1500 rpm or higher, and thegenerator circuit is performing properly bycharging the battery with 10 amps, then anet post ive gain of 6 amps is being recievedby the battery.

The battery can be externally charged orthe engine can be equipped with a generatorto charge the battery while the engine isoperating.

A voltage regulator, mounted in a junc-tion box on the rear of the engine, is con-nected between the generator and the bat-tery to prevent overcharging of the batterywhile the engine is operating. The junctionbox also houses a fuse to protect the charg-ing circuit.

The generator circuit requires at least1500 rpm engine speed to effectively chargethe battery. At this speed, the amperemeter on the dash w ill indicate a positivecharge to the battery.

If the boat has a twin engine installation,the usual practice is to use only one batteryfor cranking both units. With such a twininstallation, only one engine generatorshould be used to charge and maintain thebattery at its full ampereage rating.

Most mechanics have discovered if bothgenerators of a twin installation are con-nected to charge the battery, one seems to"fight" the other. Instead of having animproved system, this type of hook-upcauses many serious electrical problemsthat are unexplainable. See Section 6-9 fordetailed service procedures on the generator circuit.

TROUBLESHOOTING

One of three areas causing problems inthe generating circuit and failure of thesystem to provide sufficient current to -maintain the battery as a. satisfactorycharge. Remember, the generator will onlyproduce approximately 10 amps of current.

Most amp-meters have a 20-amp scale.Therefore, it is only necessary for the scaleto register in the 10-amp area, while theengine is operating above 1500 rpm, to indi-ca te satisfactory performance

a- The 4-amp or 20-amp fuse in thejunction box may have burned, opening thecircuit. If the fuse requires replacement, acheck should be made immediately, to de-termine why the fuse burned protecting thecircuit.

b- The voltage regulator may be defec-tive. If the regulator has failed, a thoroughcheck of the circuit to determine the cause.Simply replacing the regulator usually willnot solve the problem and the new regulatormay be damaged when the engine and gener-ator are operating.

c- The generator may be defective andfail to produce the current necessary tomaintain the battery. The problem maysimply be worn brushes. Replacement withnew brushes may solve the problem. How-ever, if the brushes are in good condition,and testing reveals the generator must bereplaced, the conservative mechanic willinstall a new voltage regula tor at the sametime.

CRITICAL WORDSThe engine must be operated, in gear, at

speeds in excess of 1500 rpm to test thegenerator circuit. Therefore, the engineMUST be mounted in a body of water toprevent a RUNAWAY condition and seriousdamage to internal parts, or destruction ofthe unit. NEVER attempt to operate theengine above idle speed with a flush attach-ment connected to the lower unit or withthe engine mounted in a small test tank,such as a fifty-gallon drum.


1- Check to be sure all electrical con-nections in the circuit are secure and freeof corrosion. Double check the batteryconnections and terminals. If the terminalsare badly corroded, there is no way on thisgreen earth for the current produced by thegenerator to reach the battery cells. Aspecial wire brush can be purchased at verymodest cost to clean the inside of the wireconnectors. A common wire brush may beused to clean the battery terminals. Baking

CHARGING CIRCUIT 6-13

soda and water is a good cleaning agent forthe battery surface.

2- Check the wiring in the circuit forbroken insulation, or an actual break in the line. Disconnect the POSITIVE electricallead from the battery as a precaution a-gainst an accidental short causing damageto the voltage regulator. Remove the junc-tion box cover. Check the condition of the

6-14 ELECTRICAL

GENERATOR

ENGINEGROUND

GROUND TO LOWER

HOTOR COVER

it-amp or 20-amp fuse with a continuitylight, or install a new fuse and check the charging circuit again with the engine oper-ating. The it-amp and 20-amp fuses caneasily be "popped" out their retainers in the panel of the junction box base and replacedafter the cover has been removed.

3- Ground the field of the generatorvery QUICKLY and only MOMENTARILYwith a jumper wire while the engine isoperating at approximately 2000 rpm. ByMOMENTARILY grounding the field, thevoltage regulator is actually bypassed andthe generator will "run wild". If the ampmeter registers a high reading while thegenerator field is grounded, the circuit has abroken wire, or the voltage regulator isdefective. If the amp meter reading doesnot change while the generator field isgrounded, then the indication is a faultygenerator.

Voltage Regulator 1- Disconnect the positive lead from the

battery terminal an accidental short causingdamage in the circuit. Loosen the twowingnuts on both sides of the junction boxcover. These wingnuts are "captive" with

STARTERSWITCH

the cover and cannot be completely remov-ed, only released from the junction box.(This arrangement prevents loss of the wing-nuts). Disconnect the wires between thegenerator and the terminal board in thejunction box at the board, if the regulator is to be re placed.

2- Place the junction box cover on itsback and remove the five leads to the voltage regulator. Notice how the leads arecolor-coded, as an assist in connecting them correctly during installation. Remove theattaching hardware securing the voltageregulator to the cover. Remove the regula-tor. Place the new regulator in position inthe junction box cover and secure it withthe attaching hardware. Connect the fourcolor-coded wires to the regulator: Yellow,from the generator armature; blue, from thegenerator field; brown, from the battery;and the black is the ground wire. A secondbrown wire is connected to the bottom ofthe junction box to allow additional electri-cal accessories to be connected. This secondwire would not have been disconnected toremove the regulator.

CRITICAL WCRnSWhen a new voltage regulator is instal-,

led, the generator must be "polarized" BE-FCRE the cover is installed.


3- "Polarize" the new regulator by firstconnecting the posi tive lead to the battery,and then using a sm all jumper wire to makea MOMENTARY connection between thebattery terminal and the arm ature terminalof the regulator. The generator is nowproperly "polarized" with the new regulatorfor service. TAKE CARE not to touch thefield terminal when making the connections.

4- Now, disconnect the positive batterylead again, before installing the junction boxcover. The few moments involved in discon-necting and connecting the positive lead atthe battery is well spent. This small taskwill prevent any possible short from causingdamage to the circuit when working withthe wires.

5- Install the junction box cover to thebox base. As the cover is moved into place,work the wires alongside the regulator. Se-cure the cover in place with the two "cap-tive" wingnuts.

6-16 ELECTRICAL

GENERATOR SERVICE

1- Disconnect the positive Iead at thebattery terminal. Remove the hood fromthe engine. If the engine has a hand starter,remove the retaining bolts and lift off thehand starter. Prevent the shaft from turn-ing by engaging an open-end wrench with the flats on the generator shaft underneath t he pulley. Now, while continuing to holdthe wrench on the shaft, remove the nutfrom the top of the generator pulley. Re-move the cover from the inside of thegenerator pulley.

ARMATURETERMINAL

2- Remove the generator belt from thepulley. Use a screwdriver or other similartool and pry the puller up and free of thegenerator shaft. Hold the generator, and atthe same time remove the nuts from the topof the generator support bracket, and thegenerator is free.

SPECIAL WORDSIn some cases, it is just as easy to

remove the 7/16" bolts securing the bracketto the engine, and then to remove thebracket and generator together. The brac-ket is then removed from the generator.

3- Remove the two wires on the bottomside of the genera tor. Notice how onegenerator stud is smaller than the other andthe electrical connectors are different sizesto match the studs.

4- Remove the two nuts from the wireterminals at the bottom of the generator.Work out the two white insulators fromaround the studs. Remove the two thru-bolts.

CD

5- Remove the end cap from the gener-ator. After the cap has been removed, takenotice of the small dowel in the end of thegenerator. This dowel ensures the cap willbe installed correctly when the dowel isindexed in a matching hole in the cap. Pullthe armature and upper cap out of theframe.

ARMATURE TESTING

Testing for a Short 6- Position the armature on a growler,

then hold a hacksaw blade over the arma-ture core. Turn the growler switch to theON position. Slowly rotate the armature. Ifthe hacksaw blade vibrates, the armature orcommutator has a short. Clean the grooves


between the commutator bars on the arma-ture. Perform the test again. If the hack-saw blade still vibrates during the test, thearmature has a short and MUST be replaced.

Testing for a Ground 7- Obtain a test lamp or continuity met-

er. Make contact with one probe lead onthe armature core and the other probe leadon the commutator bar. If the lamp lights,or the meter indicates continuity, the arma-ture is grounded and MUST be replaced.

Checking the Commutator Bar 8- Check between or check bar-to-bar

as shown in the accompanying illustration.The test light should light, or the metershould indicate continuity. If the commuta-tor fails the test, the armature MUST bereplaced.

Field Coil Test for Ground 9- Check to be sure the free end of the

field wire is not grounded to the frame and

6-18 ELECTRICAL

the field insulation is not broken. Using atest lamp or ohmmeter, make contact withone probe lead to the ground of the genera-tor frame. Make contact with the otherlead to the field terminal. If the lamp lightsor the ohmmeter indica tes continuity, thefield coils are grounded. If the location ofthe ground in the field coils cannot bedetermined, or repaired, the coils MUST bereplaced.

Armature Terminal Test for Ground 10- Check to be sure the loose end of

the armature ternimal lead of the generatoris NOT grounded to the frame. Using a testlamp or ohmmeter, make contact with oneprobe lead to the armature terminal of thegenerator. Make contact with the otherprobe lead to a good ground on the genera-tor frame. If the test lamp lights or theohmmeter indicates continuity, the positiveterminal insulation through the generatorframe is broken down and MUST be replac-ed.

Positive Brush Test for Ground 11- Using a test lamp or ohmmeter,

make contact with one probe lead to thepositive or insulated brush holder. Makecontact with the other probe lead to a goodground on the generator frame. If the lamplights, or the ohmmeter indicates continui-ty, the brush holder is grounded due todefective insulation at the frame.

Field Test 12- Using a test lamp or ohmmeter,

make contact with one probe lead to thearmature stud. Make contact with the otherprobe lead to the armature brush. The lampshould light or the ohmmeter indicate conti-nuity. If this test is not successful, checkfor a poor connection between the stud andthe brush.


Check the ball bearing at the end of thecommutator bar. Verify that the bearingturns free with no sign of "rough spots" orbinding. Hold the armature in one hand and

THRUBOLT

UPPERHEAD

ARMATURE

BEARING

FRAME

-..,


Exploded view of a typical generator showing arrangement of major parts.

BRUSH (2)

LOWERHEAD

6-20 ELECTRICAL

CORRECT INCORRECT

Armature segments properly cleaned (left) and im-properly cleaned (right).

the turn the upper cap on the shaft with theother hand. The cap and shaft should turnfreely with no sign of binding. If either ofthese tests are not successful, the bear ingMUST be replaced.

• Check the amount of brush wear. If thebrush is worn more than 50% of its originalsize, or to within 1/4" of the base, it shouldbe replaced. Replacement of the brushes isa simple task. First, remove the brushretaining screw, and then remove the oldbrush and install a new brush. Secure thenew brush in_place with the retaining screw.

If the armature commutator requiresturning, it should be turned in a lathe toensure accuracy. The local generator shopcan perform this task, usually for a veryreasonable fee. If the turning is accom-plished by other than generator shop person-nel, the following words are necessary. Af-ter the turning, an undercut should be made.The insulation between the commutator barsshould be 1-3/4 ", This undercut must be the full width of the insulation and flat atthe bottom. A triangular groove is NOTsatisfactory. After the undercut work iscompleted the slot should be thoroughlycleaned to remove any foreign material, dirtor copper dust. Sand the commutatorLIGHTLY with "DO" sandpaper to removeany slight burrs left from the undercutting.After all work has been completed, test theunit again, on the growler.

CDASSEMBLING THE GENERA TOR

1- Slide the armature into the frame andalign the top armature cap with the dowel inthe frame. Proper alignment is achievedwhen the dowel in the frame indexes into amatching hole in the cap. As the armatureis moved into place, pull back on the brush-es, and work them around the commutatorbar.

2- Install the end cap down over thestuds of the field and armature. Check tobe sure the dowel in the frame has indexedwith the hole in the cap.

3- Install the two thru-bolts and securethe complete assembly with the nuts.

4- Place the two bushings over the ter-minal studs of the armature and field. Se-cure the bushings in place with the washersand proper nuts (one terminal is larger thanthe other).

Testing by Rotating the ArmaturePerforming this test will also "polarize"

the new or rebuilt generator. If this test isnot performed, the new or rebuilt generatorMUST still be "polarized" following installa-tion. "Polarization" at that time is ac-complished by first connecting the batteryto the system in the normal manner, andthen connecting a jumper lead to the BATterminal of the voltage regulator. Next,MOMENTARILY making contact with theother end of the jumper lead to the AR Mterminal of the regulator. The generator isnow "polarized" for service.

Now, returning to bench testing afterrebuilding the generator:

CAUTION: The armature will turn rap-idly during this test. Therefore, the genera-tor MUST be well SECURED before makingthe test to prevent personal INJURY ordamage to the generator.

1- Connect a jumper wire between thefield terminal and a good ground on thecase. Connect a second jumper wire be-tween the positive battery terminal and thearmature stud. MOMENTARILY makecontact with the negative lead from thebattery to any good ground on thegenerator. The generator should rotate

GENERATOR SERVICE 6-21

rapidly. If the generator fails to rotate, thegenerator must be disassembled again andthe service work carefully checked. Sorryabout that, but some phase of the rebuildtask was not performed properly.

2- Install the holding bracket to the gen-erator, or if the bracket remained on theengine, install the generator into the brac-ket and secure it in place with the attachinghardware, but DO NOT tighten the nuts onthe generator thru-bolts at his time. Checkto be sure the Woodruff key is in place inthe generator shaft. Slide the pulley ontothe armature shaft with the slot in the

6-22 ELECTRICAL

pulley indexed with the Woodruff key. In-stall the dr ive bel t around the pulley on theflywheel and the generator pulley.

3- Install the pulley cap, lockwasher,and nut, to secure the generator pulley inplace. Hold the generator shaft from turn-ing with an open-wrench on the flats of theshaft underneath the pulley. Adjust tensionon the generator pulley by pulling the gener-ator away from the engine, and then tight-ening the thru-bolt nuts securing the gener-ator in the bracket. The pulley is properlyadjusted when it may be depressed approxi-mately 1/4" at a point mid-way between thetwo pulleys.

6-10 CHOKE CIRCUIT SERVICE

This short section provides instructionsto test the choke circuit. If the system failsthe test, the attaching hardware can beremoved and the choke assembly replaced.

TESTLEAD TO TERMINAL

Hookup points to test an electric choke.

Choke Circuit TestingThe choke circuit may be quickly tested

to determine if it is functioning properly asfollows:

a- Obtain an ohmmeter. b- Connect the black meter lead to anunpainted portion of the engine block fora good ground. c- Connect the red meter lead to the choke terminal. d- Test the circuit using the Rxl scaleof the ohmmeter. A satisfactory readingis approximately 3 ohms. .e- After the test is completed, check tobe sure the choke plunger is pulled into the choke solenoid.

6-11 STARTER MOTOR CIRCUIT SERVICE

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

As the name implies, the sole purpose ofthe starter motor circuit is to control oper-ation of the starter motor to crank theengine until the engine is operating. Thecircuit includes a solenoid or magneticswitch to connect or disconnect the starterfrom the battery. The operator controls theswitch with a pushbutton or key switch.

A cutout switch is installed in the sys-tem to prevent starting the engine if thethrottle is advanced too far, beyond idlespeed. When the throttle is advanced, thestarter solenoid is not grounded and thestarter motor will not rotate. On electricshift models, a cut-out switch is installed inthe circuit to permit operation of the start-er motor ONLY if the shift control lever isin NEUTRAL. This switch is a safety deviceto prevent accidental engine start when theengine is in gear.

STARTER MOTOR DESCRIPTION

Delco-Remy, Autolite, and Prestolitestarter motors are used on the Johnson/Evinrude engines covered in this manual.Any of the three may be installed on a 35 hpor 40 hp engine. The early model starters(especially the Delco-Rerney) were shorterand just a bit less powerful than the latermodels. If a replacement unit must bepurchased, anyone of the three may beobtained and installed. Therecommendation is to spend a few dollarsmore for the longer, more powerful unit. One more word: If a long starter motor isreplacing the short model, an additionalbracket MUST be bought and installed on thelower end of the starter.

Marine starter motors are very similarin construction and operation to the unitsused in the automotive industry. All marine starter motors use the inertia-type driveassembly. This type assembly is mounted onan armature shaft with external spiralsplines which mate with the internal splinesof the drive assembly.

The starter motor is a ser ies woundelectr ic motor which draws a heavy currentfrom the battery. It is designed to be usedonly for short periods of time to crank theengine for starting. To prevent overheatingthe motor, cranking should not be continued

for more than 3D-seconds without allowingthe motor to cool for at least three minutes.Actually, this time can be spent in makingpreliminary checks to determine why theengine fails to start.

Most starter motors operate in much thesame manner and the service work involved in restor ing a defective unit to service isalmost identical. Therefore, the informa-tion in this chapter is grouped together for the major components of the starter underseparate headings. Differences, where theyoccur, between the various manufacturers,are clearly indicated.

Theory of Operation Power is transmitted from the starter

motor to the engine flywheel through aBendix dr ive, This drive has a pinion gearmounted on screw threads. When the motoris operated, the pinion gear moves up intomesh with the teeth on the flywheel ringgear.

When the engine starts, the pinion gearis driven faster than the shaft, and as aresult, it screws out of mesh with the fly-wheel. A rubber cushion is built into theBendix dr ive to absorb the shock when the pinion meshes with the flywheel ring gear.The parts of the drive MUST be properly assembled for efficient operation. If thedrive is removed for cleaning, TAKE CAREto assemble the parts as shown in the ac-companying illustration. If the screw shaftassembly is reversed, it will strike the splin-es and the rubber cushion will not absorb theshock.

STARTER MOTOR 6-23

The sound of the motor during crankingis a good indication of whether the startermotor is operating properly or not. Natural-ly, temperature conditions will affect thespeed at which the starter motor is able tocrank the engine. The speed of cranking acold engine will be much slower than whencranking a warm engine. An experiencedoperator will learn to recognize the favor-able sounds of the cranking engine undervar ious conditions.

Faulty SymptomsIf the starter spins, but fails to crank the

engine, the cause is usually a corroded or gummy Bendix drive. The drive should beremoved, cleaned, and given an inspection.

If the starter motor cranks the engine toslowly, the following are possible causes andthe corrective actions that may be taken:

a- Battery charge is low. Charge thebattery to full capacity. b- High resistance connections at thebattery, solenoid, or motor. Clean andtighten all connections. c- Undersize battery cables. Replacecables with sufficient size.d- Battery cables too long. Relocatethe battery to shorten the run to thestarter solenoid.

MaintenanceThe starter motor does not require peri-

odic maintenance or lubrication EXCEPTjust a drop of light-weight oil on the startershaft to ease movement of the Bendix drive.If the motor fails to perform properly, the

STARTERGROUND

SAFETY SWITCHFunctional diagram to show current flow when the key switch is turned to the START position.

6-24 ELECTRICAL

Two handy instruments for use in checking thegenerating circuit (left) and starter motor circuit(right). These meters do not require any wire connec-tions. A reading will be obtained by simply placing themeter on the line.

checks outlined in the previous paragraphshould be performed.

The frequency of starts governs howoften the motor should be removed and reconditioned. The manufacturer recom-mends removal and reconditioning every1000 hours.

Naturally, the motor will have to beremoved if the corrective actions outlinedunder Faulty Symptoms above, does not re-store the motor to satisfactory operation.

STARTER MOTOR TROUBLESHOOTING

Before wasting too much time trouble-shooting the starter circuit, the followingchecks should be made. Many times, theproblem will be corrected.

a- Battery fully charged.b- Throttle advanced too far (beyondfast idle speed).

Typical Bendix spring arrangement on a startermotor. A small amount or 011 on the Shaft in the springarea will prolong satisfactory operation.

STARTER

Functional diagram of a starter motor solenoid.Notice the separate terminal for a ground wire. Thissolenoid is NOT grounded through the mounting bracket.

c- Shift control lever not in NEUTRAL(electric shift models only). d- All electrical connections dean andtight. e- Wiring in good condition, insulationnot worn or frayed. f- One of the cut-out switches may bedefective.Two more areas may cause the engine to

turn over slowly even though the startermotor circuit is in excellent condition: Atight or "frozen" engine; and water in thelower unit causing the bearings to tightenup. The following troubleshooting proce-dures are presented in a logical sequence,

- - - -~..-_.Functional diagram of a "slave-type" starter motor

solenoid used on four-cycle engine installation. Thissolenoid CANNOT be used on a two-cycle engine.

STARTERFunctional diagram of a typical two-cycle outboard

engine starter motor solenoid. Notice that the right-hand small terminal is connected to ground or a safetyswitch. The unit is NOT grounded through the mounting bracket.with the most common and easily correctedareas listed first in each problem area. Theconnection number refers to the numberedpositions in the accompanying illustrations.

Perform the following quick checks andcorrective actions for following problems:

TESTING

FIRST THESE WORDSThe starter solenoid is actually nothing

more than a switch between the battery and the starter motor. Several types of sole-noids are used and many appear similar.NEVER attempt to use an automotive-typesolenoid in a marine installation. Such prac-tice will lead to more problems than can beimagined. An automotive-type solenoid hasa completely different internal wiring cir-cuit. If such a solenoid is connected intothe starter system, and the system is acti-vated, current will be directed to ground.The wires will be burned and the cut-outswitch will be burned and rendered useless.Therefore, when installing replacementparts in the starter or other circuits on amarine installation, always take time toobtain parts from a MARINE outlet to en-sure proper service and to prevent damageto other expensive components.

SAFETY WORDBefore making any test of the cranking

system, disconnect the spark plug leads atthe spark plugs to prevent the engine frompossibly starting during the test and causing personal injury.

The following tests are to be performedaccording to the faulty condition described.The numbers referenced in the steps are

STARTER MOTOR 6-25

correlated with numbers on the accompanycircuit diagram on Page 26, to identifyexactly where the connection or test is tomade.

Starter Motor Turns Slowly a- Battery charge is low. Charge the

battery to full capacity.b- Electrical connections corroded or

loose. Clean and tighten.c- Defective starter motor. Perform an

amp draw test. Lay an amp draw-gauge onthe cable leading to the starter motor No.5. Turn the key to the START position andattempt to crank the engine. If the gaugeindicates an excessive amperage draw, thestarter motor MUST be replaced or rebuilt.

Starter Motor Fails To Turn OverVoltage Check

a- Check the voltage at No.2, the bat-tery and ground.

b- If satisfactory voltage is indicated atthe battery, check the voltage at No.3, the positive side of the starter solenoid. Weak,or no voltage at this point indicates corrod-ed battery terminals, poor connection at thesolenoid, or defective wiring between the battery and the solenoid.

c- Test the voltage at No. 4-, the key. Afull l2-volt reading should be registered atthe key. Weak or no voltage at the keyindicates a poor connection at the solenoid,or a broken wire between the starter sole-noid and the key.

d- If satisfactory voltage is indicatedduring Steps a, b, and c, connect a voltmeter at No.5 and ground, and then turnthe key switch to the START position. If12-volts is registered at No.5 and the start-er still fails to operate, the starter is defec-tive and requires service. If voltage is NOTpresent at No.5, proceed to the next sec-tion, Testing Starter Solenoid.

Testing Starter Solenoid a- Remove the heavy starter cable at

No.5, at the starter. This cable MUST bedisconnected prior to performing this test toprevent the starter motor from turning andcranking the engine. Connect a voltmeterto No.6 (the starter solenoid), and ground. Turn the key to the START position. Themeter should indicate 12-volts. If voltage isnot present at No.6, the key switch isdefective, or the wire is broken between the key switch and the starter solenoid.

6-26 ELECTRICAL

b- If voltage is present-at No.6, connecta voltmeter at No.3 and to No.7. Connectone end of a jumper wire to No.2, thepositive terminal of the battery and MO-MENTARIL Y make contact with the other end at No.6, the starter solenoid. Ifvoltage is indicated through the starter sol-enoid, the solenoid is satisfactory and theproblem has been corrected while makingthe tests. Sometimes, when working withelectrical circuits, corrective action hasbeen taken almost accidently, a bad connec-tion has been made good, etc. If the sole-noid test falled, it does not necessarilymean the solenoid is defective. The sole-noid may not be properly grounded throughthe cutout switch. Therefore, the cutoutswitch may be defective and should bechecked as outlined later in this section.

c- With the voltmeter still connected atNo. 3 and No.7, connect one end of a jump-er wire at No.8, the starter solenoid, andthe other lead to a good ground. Connect asecond jumper wire at No.2, the positiveterminal of the battery, to No.6, thestarter solenoid. The voltmeter should indi-cate voltage is present. If voltage is not

present, the starter solenoid is defectiveand MUST be replaced.

Testing Throttle Advance Cut-out Switch a- Remove the existing wire from No. 1

the switch terminal. Connect one probelead of a ohmm eter to the terminal. Con-nect the other test probe lead to a goodground. Depress the switch button and theohmmeter should indicate continuity. Ifcontinuity is not indicated, the switch isdefective and MUST be replaced. Connectthe heavy cable at No.5, the starter motor.

6-12 STARTER DRIVE GEAR SERVICE

STARTER REMOVAL

Before beginning any work on the startermotor, disconnect the positive (+) lead fromthe battery terminal. Remove the hood.Disconnect the red cable at the starter motor terminal.

Remove the 1/2" bolt securing the star-ter bracket. This bolt is located on thestarboard side of the engine just above the

Typical starter motor installation.

carburetor. Remove the three 7/16" bolts(or nuts in some cases) securing the startermotor bracket to the engine. Remove thestarter motor and bracket together.

DRIVE GEAR DISASSEMBLING

Two types of drive gear arrangementsare used on Johnson/Evinrude outboard star-ter motors covered in this manual. Bothunits use a dr ive gear with a rubber cushion.However one has a castilla ted nut with acotter pin or possibly a self-locking nut tosecure the drive gear on the armature shaft.The arrangement of parts behind the nut is,of course, unique. This drive gear isreferred to as Type I. The other is verysimilar except for the arrangement of partson the armature shaft. This second unit isreferred to as Type II.

To determine which starter motor drivetype is being serviced observe the unit andmake a comparison with the two explodedillustrations in this section, especially thepinion gear and the screw shaft.

SPACER SCREWSHAFT

WASHER CUSHION

STARTER DRIVE GEAR 6-27

CASTELLATEDNUT

Two different type drive nuts used on outboardstarter motors. The nut on the left is a self-lockingtype and the right one is a castellated nut with a cotterpin.

Type I Drive Gear with Rubber CushionThese starter motors have the dr ive se-

cured to the shaft by means of a castillatednut. Begin diassembling by removing thecotter pin from the armature shaft end, andthen unscrew the castillated nut. Somemodels use a self-locking nut without thecotter pin. The drive mechanism is nowready to be removed in the following se-quence: pinion stop, anti-drift spring, pinionwasher, anti-drift spring sleeve, pinion gear,screw shaft, thrust washer, cushion cup,cushion, cushion spacer, and thrust washer.The exploded drawing accompanying thissection will be helpful in assembling thestarter motor in the proper sequence.


Inspect the drive gear teeth for chips,cracks, or a broken tooth. Check the splineinside the drive gear for burrs and to be surethe drive gear moves freely on the armatureshaft. Check to be sure the return spring isflexible and has not become distorted. In-

SLEEVE

Arrangement of parts for a typical starter motor drive gear.

6-28 ELECTRICAL

flexible and has not become distorted. In-spect the rubber cushion for cracks and forsigns of oil on the cushion. Clean thearmature shaft with crocus cloth.

ASSEMBLING Type I Starter Drive

Begin by assembling the following partsin the order given. The accompanying illus-tration will be most helpful in assemblingthe parts in the proper sequence. First,slide the thrust washer onto the armatureshaft. Next, and in the sequence given,install the cushion spacer; cushion; cushioncup with the open end over the cushion; thecup; and then the thrust washer.

Install the screw shaft with the splinedend facing UP. Lubricate the underside withMultipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent. In-stall the pinion gear with the screw endfacing DOWN.

Install the anti-drift spring washer, anti-dr ift spring, and the pinion gear stop withthe recessed end facing DOWN.

Secure the assembly with the cast illatednut tightened to a torque value of 200 in.-lbs, Now, turn the nut slightly more untilthe cotter pin can be inserted through thenut and the hole in the shaft. Some modelsuse a self-locking nut without, the cotterkey.

To test the complete sta.rter motor, pro-ceed directly to Section 6-16.

To install the starter motor onto theengine, if no further work is to be perform-ed, proceed directly to Section 6-17.

DISASSEMBLING

Type II Drive Gear with Rubber CushionFirst, remove the nut from the end of

the armature shaft. Scribe a mark on thetop of the screw shaft and one of the top ofthe pinion as an aid during assembling.These marks will identify the top of bothparts. Next, remove the following parts inthe sequence given: The pinion stop; anti-drift spring; sleeve; screw shaft cup; screwshaft; pinion; thrust washer; cushion cap;cushion; and the cushion retainer. The ex-ploded drawing accompanying this sectionwill be helpful in assembling the startermotor in the proper sequence.


Inspect the drive gear teeth for chips,

cracks, or a broken tooth. Check the splineinside the drive gear for burrs and to be surethe drive gear moves freely on the armatureshaft. Check to be sure the return spring isflexible and has not become distorted. In-spect the rubber cushion for cracks and forsigns of oil on the cushion. Clean thearmature shaft with crocus cloth.

ASSEMBLING

Type II Drive Gear with Rubber CushionBegin by assembling the following parts

in the sequence given: The accompanying

STOPPINION

SPRING

SLEEVE

Exploded drawing of the Type II drive gear.

illustration will be most helpful in assemb-ling the parts in the proper sequence.

First, slide the cushion retainer downonto the dr ive end cap, with the shoulderfacing UPWARD. Next, slide the cushion down the armature shaft and seat it overthe shoulder of the retainer. Install thecushion cap over the cushion. Slide thrustwasher down the armature shaft onto thetop of the cap. Rotate the screw shaftclockwise into the the pinion, and then slide the pinion and screw shaft down the arma-ture shaft onto the thrust washer. Installthe cap over the end of the screw shaft.

Slide the following parts onto the arma-ture shaft in the order given: The sleeve;spr ing; pinion stop washer; and finallythread the nut onto the end of the shaft.Tighten the nut securely.

To test the complete starter motor, pro-ceed directly to Section 6-16.

To install the starter motor onto theengine, if no further work is to be perform-ed, proceed directly to Section 6-17.

6-13 DELCO-REMY SERVICE

REMOVAL

1- Before beginning any work on thestarter motor, disconnect the positive (+)lead from the battery terminal. Removethe engine hood. Disconnect the red cableat the starter motor terminal. Remove the1/2" bolt securing the starter bracket. Thisbolt is located on the starboard side of theengine just above the carburetor. Remove

DELCO-REM Y STARTER 6-29

the three 7/16" bolts (or nuts in some cases)securing the starter motor bracket to theengine. Remove the starter motor andbracket together.

G<X>D NEWSIf the only motor repair necessary is

replacement of the brushes, the drive geardoes not have to be removed. All startermotors have thru-bolts securing the upperand lower cap to the field frame assembly.In all cases both caps have some type ofmark or boss. These marks are used toproperly align the caps with the field frameassembly.

DISASSEMBLING

FIRST THESE WORDSTwo models of Delco-Remy starter mo-

tors are installed, a short model and longer, more power ful model. The short model hasone positive and one negative brush. Thelonger model has two positive and two nega-tive brushes. The negative brushes canal ways be identified as the brushes with thelead connected to the frame. The otherbrush or brushes are connected to the fieldcoil.

2- Observe the caps and fi nd the identi-fying mark or boss on each. If the marksare not visible, make an identifying markprior to removing the thru-bolts as an essen-tial aid during asembling. Remove the thru-bolts from the bracket and the starter mo-tor. Use a small hammer and CAREFULLYtap the lower cap free of the starter motor.On the Delco-Remy starter motor, thebrushes are mounted in the frame assembly.Pull on the armature shaft from the drivegear end and remove it from the field frameassembly. Remove the brushes from theirholders, and then remove the brush springs.

NOTCH

6-30 ELECTRICAL

ARMATURE TESTING


then hold a hacksaw blade over the arma-ture core. Turn the growler switch to theON position. Slowly rotate the armature. Ifthe hacksaw blade vibrates, the armature orcommutator has a short. Clean the groovesbetween the commutator bars on the arma-ture. Perform the test again. If the hack-saw blade still vibrates during the test, thearmature has a short and MUST be replaced.

TEST LEADS

Testing for a Ground 4- Obtain a test lamp or continuity me-

ter. Make contact with one probe lead onthe armature core and the other probe leadon the commutator bar. If the lamp lights,or the meter indicates continuity, the arma-ture is grounded and MUST be replaced.



Turning the Commutator 6- True the commutator, if necessary, in

a lathe. NEVER undercut the mica becausethe brushes are harder than the insulation.Undercut the insulation between the com-mutator bars 1/32" to the full width of theinsulation and flat at the bottom. A triang-ular groove is not satisfactory. After theunder-cutting work is completed, clean outthe slots carefully to remove dirt and cop-per dust. Sand the commutator lightly withNo. 00 sandpaper to remove any burrs leftfrom the undercutting. Check the armature a second time on the growler for possibleshort circuits.

CORRECT INCORRECT

Positive Brushes 7- The positive brush or brushes can

always be identified as the brushes connect-ed to the field coil.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Connect one leadof the meter to the end of the brush and theother lead to the terminal. The ohmmeterMUST indicate continuity between thebrush and the terminal. If the meter indi-cates any resistance, check the lead to thebrush and the lead to the positive terminalsolder connection. If the connection cannotbe repaired, the brushes MUST be replaced.If the unit being tested has a double set ofpositive brushes, repeat the test for theother positive brush.

Move the test lead from the brush to agood ground on the frame. If continuity isindicated, the field coil is grounded to thecase.

Negative Brushes 8- The negative brushes can always be

identified because the lead is connected tothe brush retainer as a ground to the frame.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Make contact withone lead on the negative brush and makecontact with the other lead on the starterframe. If the meter does not indicatecontinuity, the brush or brush retainer is notgrounded to the frame.

If the unit being tested has a double setof negative and positive brushes, move thetest lead from the one negative brush to theother negative brush lead and again checkfor continuity. If the meter does not indi-cate continuity, the brush or brush retaineris not grounded to the frame.

Check to be sure none of the solderedconnections are touching the frame. The

DELCO-REMY STARTER 6-31

fields would be grounded if the connectionsmake contact with the frame.


Clean the field coils, armature, commu-tator, armature shaft, brush-end plate and drive-end housing with a brush or compress-ed air. Wash all other parts in solvent andblow them dry with compressed air.

Inspect the insulation and the unsolderedconnections of the armature windings forbreaks or burns.

Perform electrical tests on any suspect-ed defective part, according to the pro-cedures outlined earlier in this Section.

Check the commutator for run-out. In-spect the armature shaft and both bearingsfor scoring.

Typical brush spring. If the springs have turned bluein color, they must be replaced.

6-32 ELECTRICAL

Turn the commutator in a lathe if it isout-of-round by more than 0.005".

Check the springs in the brush holder tobe sure none are broken. Check the springtension and replace if the tension is not 32-4-0 ounces. Check the insulated brush hold-ers for shorts to ground. If the brushes areworn down to 1/4-" or less, they must bereplaced.

Check the field brush connections andlead insulation. A brush kit and a contactkit are available at your local marine deal-er, but all other assemblies must be replac-ed rather than repaired.

The armature, fields, and brush holdersmust be checked before assembling the star-ter motor. See the testing section in thischapter for detailed procedures to test thestarter motor.

ASSEMBLING THE DELCO-REMY

Negative Brushes and RetainerThe following procedures apply to brush-

es mounted to the field frame assembly.1- Remove the old set of ground brushes

by cutting off the rivets with a chisel or bydr illing them out. Replacement brush hold-er kits are available at marine outlets.

FRAME

BRUSH

BRUSHHOLDER

POLESHOE

These kits are complete with screws, wash-ers, and nuts for attachment to the frame.Replacement brush springs are also availa-ble. The brush spring is removed from theholder by compressing one side of the springwith a small screwdriver until the springflips out of its seat. After the spring popsout, turn the spring clockwise until it is freeof the holder.

ARMATURE

WASHERENDCAP

Exploded view showing arrangement of major Delco-Remy starter motor parts.

A new negative brush and brush hotcter as it appearswhen removed from the package.

Replacement brush sets are availableand usually contain the following parts:

One insulated brush, with flexible leadattached.One ground brush holder with brush andlead attached.Necessary attaching screws, washers,and nuts.

Positive BrushesCut off the old brush lead where it is

attached to the field coil. Prepare the ends of the coil for soldering the new brush leadassembly. Clean the ends of the coil byfiling or grinding off the old brush leadconnection. Remove the varnish only as farback as necessary to enable a good solderedconnection to be made.

Use rosin flux and solder the leads to theBACK SIDES of the coil to prevent anyexcess solder from rubbing against the arm-ature. Be sure the leads are in the rightposition to reach the brush holders. Do not

Installing the negative brush into the frame assemb-ly. A new bolt and washer is provided in the replace-ment kit.

DELCO-REMY STARTER 6-33

overheat the leads, because the solder willrun onto the lead and the lead will loose itsflexibili ty,

Assembling the Starter Motor 1- Clamp the drive gear in a vise equip-

ped with soft jaws and with the drive geardown. Insert the brush springs into thebrush holders, and then install the brushes inplace.

TAKE TIME to whittle the end of two orfour match sticks in the shape of a tinyspade. Now push one brush outward, andthen wedge one of the match sticks inbetween the brush and the lip of the retain-er. The match stick will hold the brush inthe retracted position during installation ofthe armature. Retract each of the remain-ing brushes and hold them with a match stick.

2- After all the brushes have been re-tracted and held in place with the matchsticks, lower the field frame assembly until

6-34 ELECTRICAL

the brushes make contact with the commu-tator. Now, remove the match sticks.Align the mark on the upper cap with thematching mark on the field frame.

3- Place the washer onto the commuta-tor shaft, then place the cap onto the end ofthe field frame assembly. Align the markon the lower cap with the mark on the fieldframe.

4- Slide the rubber spacer or collar intothe starter bracket, if used. Now, installthe starter bracket over the starter motor.Install the thru-bolts through the end cap,

the frame, and thread them into the starterbracket. Tighten the thru-bolts securely.


To install the starter motor onto theengine, proceed directly to Section 6-17.

6-14 AUTOLITE STARTERMOTOR SERVICE

REMOVAL 1- Before beginning any work on the

starter motor, disconnect the positive (+)lead from the battery terminal. Removethe engine hood. Disconnect the red cableat the starter motor terminal. Remove the1/2" bolt securing the starter bracket. Thisbolt is located on the starboard side of theengine just above the carburetor. Removethe three 7/16" bolts (or nuts in some cases)securing the starter motor bracket to theengine. Remove the starter motor andbracket together.

GOOD NEWSIf the only motor repair necessary is

replacement of the brushes, the drive geardoes not have to be removed. All startermotors have thru-bol ts securing the upperand lower cap to the field frame assembly.In all cases both caps have some type ofmark or boss. These marks are used toproperly align the caps with the field frameassembly.

DISASSEMBLING

2- Observe the caps and find the identi-fying mark or boss on each. If the marksare not visible, make an identifying markprior to removing the thru-bolts as an essen-tial aid during asembling. Remove the thru-bolts from the bracket and the starter mo-tor.

3- Use a small hammer and CARE-FULLY tap the lower cap free of the starter motor. On the Autolite starter motor, thebrushes are mounted in the end cap.

4- Pull on the armature shaft from thedrive gear end and remove it from the fieldframe assembly. Remove the positive brushfrom its holder.

ARMATURE TESTING


then hold a hacksaw blade over the arma-ture core. Turn the growler switch to theON position. Slowly rotate the armature. If

AUTOLITE STARTER 6-35

the hacksaw blade vibrates, the armature orcommutator has a short. Clean the groovesbetween the commutator bars on the arma-ture. Perform the test again. If the hack-saw blade still vibrates during the test, thearmature has a short and MUST be replaced.

Testing for a Ground 6- Obtain a test lamp or continui ty me-

ter. Make contact with one probe lead onthe armature core and the other probe leadon the commutator bar. If the lamp lights,

TEST LEADS

6-36 ELECTRICAL

or the meter indicates continuity, the arma-ture is grounded and MUST be replaced.


as shown in the accompanying illustration.The test light should light, or the metershould indicate continuity. If the commuta-tor falls the test, the armature MUST bereplaced.


a lathe. NEVER undercut the mica becausethe brushes are harder than the insulation.Undercut the insulation between the com-mutator bars 1/32" to the full width of theinsulation and flat at the bottom. A triang-ular groove is not satisfactory. After theunder-cutting work is completed, clean outthe slots carefully to remove dirt and cop-per dust. Sand the commutator lightly withNo. 00 sandpaper to remove any burrs leftfrom the undercutting. Check the armaturea second time on the growler for possibleshort circuits.

Positive Brushes 9- The positive brushes can always be

identified as the brush with the lead con-nected to the field coil.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Connect one leadof the meter to the end of the brush and theother lead to the terminal. The ohmmeterMUST indicate continuity between thebrush and the terminal. If the meter indi-cates any resistance, check the lead to thebrush and the lead to the positive terminal

AC MILLIAMMETER

CORRECT

Negative Brush 10- The negative brush can always be

identified because the lead is connected tothe starter motor end cap. Obtain an ohm-meter. Make contact with one lead on thenegative brush and make contact with theother lead on the starter end cap. If themeter does not indicate continuity, thebrush or brush retainer is not grounded tothe end cap.

Positive Brush Installation11- First, cut the old field coil brush

free. Next, attach the lead of the newbrush to the stiff wire lead on the field coil.Wrap a fine piece of copper wire around thelead and the stiff wire from the coil to holdthe brush lead in place while it is soldered.If the wrapped wire becomes soldered also,no problem leave it in place. If it did notbecome soldered, pull it free after the sold-er ing is complete.

Use rosin flux and solder the leads to theBACK SIDES of the wire to prevent anyexcess solder from rubbing against the arm-ature. Be sure the leads are in the right

position to reach the brush holders. Do notoverheat the leads, because the solder willrun onto the lead and the lead will loose itsflexibility.

Check to be sure none of the solderedconnections are touching the frame. Thefields would be grounded if the connections make contact with the frame.

Negative Brush Installation 12- Cut the old brush free from the end

cap. Clean the surface thoroughly. Next,solder the lead of the new brush to the endcap. If the retainer are no longer fi t forservice, the entire end cap must be replac-ed. New brushes are NOT included with theend cap.


Clean the field coils, armature, commu-tator, armature shaft, brush-end plate anddrive-end housing with a brush or compress-ed air. Wash all other parts in solvent andblow them dry with compressed air.


Perform electrical tests on any suspect-ed defective part, according to the pro-cedures outlined ear lier in this Section.



Check the springs in the brush holder tobe sure none are broken. Check the spring

AUTOLITE STARTER 6-37

tension and replace if the tension is not 32-40 ounces. Check the insulated brush hold-ers for shorts to ground. If the brushes areworn down to 1/4" or less, they must bereplaced.



ASSEMBLING THE AUTOLITE

1- Clamp the armature in a vise equip-ped with soft jaws with the drive endDOWN. Slide the thrust washers onto thearmature shaft. Lower the field assemblydown over the armature The spring action

6-38 ELECTRICAL

against the brush is built into the re tainer •Therefore, a separate brush spring is notrequired. With one brush attached to theend cap and the other to the frame assem-bly, positioning the brushes properly is notthe easiest task, but it can be done withpatience.

Insert the negative brush into the retain-er and push it in until the back part of thespring rests on the side of the brush. Thisforce secures the brush in the retainer in aretracted position. Lower the end cap overthe frame assembly. Install the positivebrush into the retainer and push the brush backward until the spring part of the retain-er is on the side of the brush.

2- Work the cap over the end of thearmature shaft and the brushes over thecommutator. Just before the cap is com-pletely into place against the frame, use apunch and push on the back side of eachbrush and the brush will snap in to rideagainst the commutator. The spring willthen be behind the brush.

3- Align the end cap notch or mark withthe mark on the frame and the upper capmark with its matching mark. Now, install

Exploded view showing arrangement of major Autolite starter motor parts.

STARTER DR I VEASSEMBLY

PRESTOLITE STARTER 6-39

6-15 PRESTOLITE SERVICE

REMOVAL

1- Before beginning any work on thestarter motor, disconnect the positive (+) lead from the battery terminal. Removethe engine hood. Disconnect the red cableat the starter motor terminal. Remove the1/2" bolt securing the starter bracket. Thisbolt is located on the starboard side of theengine just above the carburetor. Removethe three 7/16" bolts (or nuts in some cases)securing the starter motor bracket to theengine. Remove the starter motor andbracket together.

GOOD NEWSIf the only motor repair necessary is

replacement of the brushes, the drive geardoes not have to be removed. All startermotors have thru-bolts securing the upperand lower cap to the field frame assembly.In all cases both caps have some type ofmark or boss. These marks are used toproperly align the caps with the field frameassembly.

-the thru-bol ts through the end cap, theframe, and thread them into the upper cap.

4- Slide the rubber spacer or collar intothe starter bracket, if used. Now, installthe starter bracket over the starter motor.Install the thru-bolts through the end cap,the frame, and thread them into the starterbracket. Tighten the thru-bolts securely.


To install the starter motor onto theengine, proceed directly to Section 6-17.

6-40 ELECTRICAL

DISASSEMBLING

2- Observe the caps and find the identi-fying mark or boss on each. If the marksare not visible, make an identifying markprior to removing the thru-bolts as an essen-tial aid during asembling. Remove the thru-bolts from the bracket and the starter mo-tor.

3- Use a small hammer and CARE-FULLY tap the lower cap free of the startermotor.

4- Pull on the armature shaft from thedrive gear end and remove it from the field frame assembly. Remove the brushes fromtheir holders, and then remove the brushsprings. Lift the white plastic retainer freefrom the frame. Observe the location ofthe notch on the retainer in relation to theframe. The retainer must be installed in the same position.

ARMATURE TESTING


then hold a hacksaw blade over the arma-ture core. Turn the growler switch to the

ON position. Slowly rotate the armature. Ifthe hacksaw blade vibrates, the armature orcommutator has a short. Clean the groovesbetween the commutator bars on the arma-ture. Perform the test again. If the hack-saw blade still vibrates during the test, thearmature has a short and MUST be replaced.

TEST LEADS

Testing for a Ground 2- Obtain a test lamp or continuity me-

ter. Make contact with one probe lead onthe armature core and the other probe leadon the commutator bar. If the lamp lights, or the meter indicates continuity, the arma-ture is grounded and MUST be replaced.

Checking the Commutator Bar3- Check between or check bar-to-bar



a lathe. NEVER undercut the mica because

AC MILLIAMMETER


CORRECT INCORRECT Ci)the brushes are harder than the insulation.Undercut the insulation between the com-mutator bars 1/32" to the full width of theinsulation and flat at the bottom. A triang-ular groove is not satisfactory. After theunder-cutting work is completed, clean outthe slots carefully to remove dirt and cop-per dust. Sand the commutator lightly withNo. 00 sandpaper to remove any burrs leftfrom the undercutting. Check the armaturea second time on the growler for possibleshort circuits.

Positive Brushes 5- Notice how the positive brush lead is

attached to the terminal on the end of theframe. This is the same terminal to whichthe heavy battery cable is attached. Theterminal may be removed from the frame.Pull the terminal free of the frame.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Connect one testlead of an ohmmeter to the brush and theother test lead to the terminal. Continuityshould be indicated on the ohmmeter. Ifcontinuity is not indicated, the brush mustbe replaced. The brush and terminal aresold as an assembly, eliminating the neces-sity for soldering.

Negative Brushes 6- The complete terminology for Presto-

lite negative brushes is: Field Coil --Nega-tive Brush.

6-42 ELECTRICAL

Obtain an ohmmeter. Make contact withone test lead to the negative brush andmake contact with the other lead to thestarter frame. If the meter does not indi-cate continuity, the field coils are open andMUST be replaced.

Check to be sure of the soldered connec-tions are NOT touching the frame. Thefields must not be grounded. If the connec-tions make contact with the frame, thefields would be grounded.


Clean the field coils, armature, commu-tator, armature shaft, brush-end plate anddrive-end housing with a brush or compress-ed air. Wash all ot her parts in solvent andblow them dry with compressed air.


Perform electrical tests on any suspect-ed defective part, according to the pro-cedures outlined earlier in this Section.


Exploded view showing arrangement of major Prestotite starter motor parts.

SUPPORT


Check the springs in the brush holder tobe sure none are broken. Check the springtension and replace if the tension is not 32-40 ounces. Check the insulated brush hold-ers for shorts to ground. If the brushes areworn down to 1/4" or less, they must be replaced.



ASSEMBLING THE PRESTOLITE

1- Slide the plastic terminal and brushlead retainer into the groove in the framewith the small protrusion on one side facingDOWNWARD. Continue pushing the retain-er into the groove until it is fully seated.

Work the brush retainer down on top ofthe frame with the postive lead through thecut-a-way in the retainer plate. Check tobe sure the field coil negative brush passesthrough the cut-a-way in the plate.

2- Install the spring into the retainer.Push the negative brush into its retainer andthen, wrap a fine piece of wire around the front side of the brush and the back side ofthe retainer. Tighten the wire snugly. Thiswire will hold the brush in the retainer.Repeat the procedure for the positive brush.

Check to be sure the plate is securedonto the frame and the cut-a-way is over


the protrusion of the positive plastic termi-nal.

Clamp the armature in a vise equippedwith soft jaws with the drive gear facingDOWNWARD. Install the thrust washersonto the end of the armature shaft. Lowerthe frame assembly down over the armatureuntil the brushes are over the commutator.

3- After the armature is in place, cutand remove the wire wrapped around thebrushes to hold them in place. The brushesshould then make firm contact with thecommutator.

4- Install the end cap onto the end ofthe starter motor. Observe three smallnipples on the inside of the end cap. Thesenipples MUST index with matching dimplesin the retaining plate. Align the mark onthe side of the end cap with the terminal.Lower the cap onto the frame, and seat itGENTLY. NEVER tap with a hammer orother tool, because the nipples may not be indexed with the dimples and the tappingmay cause damage.

6-44 ELECTRICAL

Align the end cap notch or mark with themark on the frame and the upper cap markwith its mark.

Slide the rubber spacer or collar into thestarter bracket, if used. Now, install thestarter bracket over the starter motor. In-stall the thru-bolts through the end cap, theframe, and thread them into the starterbracket. Tighten the thru-bolts securely.

To test the assembled starter motor, seethe next section.

To install the starter motor, proceeddirectly to Section 6-17.

6-16 STARTER MOTOR TESTING

Clamp the starter motor in a vise equip-ped with soft jaws, as shown, and test itsoperation.

CAUTION: The armature will turn rap-idly during this test. Therefore, the startermotor MUST be well SECURED before mak-ing the test to prevent personal INJURY ordamage to the starter motor.

Firmly connect one end of a heavy-dutyjumper wire to the POSITIVE terminal of a battery. Firmly connect the other end of thejumper lead to the starter motor terminal.

Connect a second heavy-duty jumperwire to the negative terminal of the bat-tery. Now, MOMENTARILY make contactwith the other end of the second jumperlead anywhere to the frame of the starter

Hook-up to test an assembled starter motor.

motor. NEVER make the momemtary con-tact with the positive lead to the terminal,because any arcing at the terminal maydamage the terminal threads and the nutmay not take to the damaged threads. Themotor should turn rapidly. If the startermotor fails to rotate, the starter motormust be disassembled again and the servicework carefully checked. Sorry about that,but some phase of the rebuild task was not performed properly.

6-17 STARTER MOTOR INSTALLATION

Mount the starter motor and bracketonto the engine. Align the top bolt abovethe carburetor, and then thread it into theblock about half-way. Align the other three bolts on the starboard side or start the nutsonto the studs, depending the model engine being serviced. Tighten the three on theside evenly and alternately until they aresecure.

Connect the positive red lead to thestarter motor. Connect the electrical leadto the battery. Test the completed work bycranking the engine with the starter motor.

DO NOT, under any circumstances, startthe engine unless it is mounted in a testtank or body of water.

CAUTION: Water must circulate throughthe lower unit to the engine any time the en-gine is run to prevent damage to the waterpump in the lower unit, Just five secondswithout water will damage the water pump.

Typical starter motor installation.

7ACCESSORIES

7-1 INTRODUCTION

Boat accessories are seldom obtainedfrom the original equipment manufacturer,except in the case of the electric shift unit.The electric shift box is considered a part ofthe new engine. Therefore, unless an ownermade a change, the electric shift unit withthe engine is probably original engine manu-facturer equipment. Mechanical shift unitsare sold and installed separately.

Shift boxes, steering, bilge pumps, blow-ers, and other similar equipment may beadded after the boat leaves the plant. Be-cause of the wide assortment, styles, andprice ranges of such accessories, the distrib-utor, dealer, or customer has a wide selec-tion from which to draw, when outfittingthe boat.

Therefore, the procedures and sugges-tions in this chapter are general in nature inorder to cover as many units as possible, butstill specific and in enough detail to allowtroubleshooting, repair, and adjustment foreach of these accessories. Proper operationwill do much for maximum comfort, perfor-mance, and enjoyment.

Complete procedures for removal, in-stallation, and adjustment of four shift ar-rangements are covered in this Chapter:The old-style manual shift; new updatedmanual shift; electr ic shift; and the push-button shift mechanism. These shift boxesare all considered original Johnson/Evinrudeequipment.

7-2 SHIFT BOXESDESCRIPTION

Undoubtedly, the most used accessory onany boat is the the shift control box. Thisunit is a remote-control device for shiftingthe outboard and at the same time con-trolling the throttle. The shift box on OMC

equipped boats is considered an accessory,except in the case of the electric shift.Therefore, many installations may have oth-er than a factory installed unit. OMCequipped boats may be equipped with one offour different type shift boxes: The old-sty le manual shift; new updated manualshift; electric shift; and the pushbutton shiftarran gem errt,

The mechanical shift box units have twolevers, a long lever handle and a short lever handle. The long handle controls the throt-tle and the short one the shift mechanism. The electric shift units, including the push-button models, have only one lever handlefor control of the shift and throttle. Theshift box installed with Johnson engines hasone handle for shifting, and another at the

NEUTRAlFORWARD REVERSE

'\u

,,'

Single lever electric Shift box used only on theJohnson units. These boxes incorporate a warm-upthrottle lever at the rear and a friction screw on thebottom to hold the throttle position after the operatorreleases the handle.

7-2 ACCESSORIES

rear of the box considered a "warmup"lever. This warmup lever may be adjustedfor low and fast idle speeds. The push-button type locks out the shift lever toprevent shifting if the throttle is advancedtoo far while the engine is in neutral.

The old style mechanical shift boxeswere very simple in design. The lower end of the shift lever handle incorporated arocker-type arrangement with teeth and anylon sleeve-type slider with teeth. As thehandle moves, the rocker "walks" in theteeth of the slider, pulling on the innerthrottle cable or the shift cable, for shifting or advancing the throttle, depending onwhich lever is being actuated.

Several accessories have been added tothe updated mechanical shift box. This newbox still uses the two lever principle for thethrottle and shift. A friction feature on thethrottle mechanism permits the operator torelease his grip on the lever handle withoutthe throttle changing position. An idle stopis also built into the shift box. This featureprevents the throttle from being retractedpast normal idle to the point where theengine would shut down.

STANDARD INSTAllATION

- .•...NEUTRAL

• SHIFT RANGEDouble lever manual Shift box installed with early

model Johnson units. This box is no longer available.However some replacement parts may still be in stockat some dealers.

STARTFAST SLOW

-,FRICTION ADJUSTMENT

Single lever electric shift box installed with theEvinrude units. This box incorporates pushbuttons forShift control, an idle adjustment at the front, and afriction adjustment on the bottom to hold the throttleposition.

Outboard models are equipped with acut-out switch in the cranking system toopen the circuit to the starter solenoid.This arrangement prevents the crankingsystem from operating unless the throttle is

NEUTRAL

FAST SLOW

IDLE STOP

SHIFT RANGEDouble lever shift box installed with manual shift

lower unit engines. This shift box is still in use andparts are available from OMC dealers.

SHIFTNOT ADJUSTABLE

J

Attaching g shift cable, with non-adjustable trun-nion, to the shirt arm.in the proper idle range. Stating it anotherway, the throttle MUST be in the idle posi-tion or the starter system will not operate.The position of the shift lever does notaffect the starting motor circuit. All shiftbox models have a means of advancing thethrottle without moving the shift lever intogear. This device is commonly known as the"warm-up" lever and may be adjusted forlow and fast idle speeds.

7-3 OLD-STYLE DOUBLE LEVER

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide a logi-cal sequence of tests, checks, and adjust-ments, designed to isolate and correct aproblem in the shift box operation.

The procedures and suggestions arekeyed by number to matching numberedillustrations as an aid in performing thework.

The two-lever shift boxes are fairly sim-ple in construction and operation. Seldomdo they fail creating problems, requiringservice more than normal lubrication.

Hard Shifting or Difficult Throttle Advance

Remove the throttle and shift control atthe engine. Now, at the shift box, attemptto move the throttle or shift lever. If thelever moves smoothly, without difficulty,the problem is immediately isolated to the

Connectingruon.

with adjustable trun-

DOUBLE SHIFT LEVER 7-3

engine. Attempt to identify if the problemis in the throttle or the shift side of theshift box. The problem may be in the towershaft between the connector of the throttleand the armature plate or the armatureplate may be "frozen", unable to move prop-erly.

If the problem with shifting is at theengine, the first place to check is the areawhere the shift lever extends through theexhaust housing. The bushing may be worn,or corroded. If the bushing requires re-placement, the engine powerhead must beremoved. Another cause of hard shifting Iswater entering the lower unit. In this casethe lower unit must be disassembled and theproblem corrected. See Chapter 8.

If hard shifting is still encountered atthe shift box when the controls are discon-nected from the engine, the cables may becorroded, and require replacement, or lackof lubrication in the shift box has resulted inexcessive wear, or corrosion.

Unable to Obtain Full Shift Movementor Full Throttle

Normally, this type of problem is theresult of improper shift box installation.This area includes connection of the shiftand throttle cables in the shift box. If the

, ..•.•.

NEUTRAl

Johnson early model double lever shift box. Thisbox is no longer available.

7-4 ACCESSORIES

Inner shift wire after it has been removed showingthe proper type crimp necessary to hold the adjustment.

stainless steel inner wire was not heated andthe clamp did not hold the inner cable(wire), the wire could slip inside the sleevethus shortening the cable. Therefore, if it isnot possible to obtain full shift or fullthrottle, the shift box must be removed,opened, and checked for proper installation work. The inner wire could also slip at theengine end of the control, but problems atthat end are very rare. Usually if improperinstallation work has been done at the en-gine end, the ability to shift at all is lost, or the throttle cannot not be actuated.

Failure to obtain full movement of thethrottle or shift lever may be caused byworn or broken teeth on the slider or on therocker of the shift handle. This type ofdamage results in the mechanism jumping atooth and loosing its "timing".

DISASSEMBLING

Removing Single and DoubleLever Shift Boxes

1- Remove the attaching hardware se-curing the shift box to the side of the boat.Once the shift box is free, the service workmay be performed in the boat. The cablesmay remain as routed. Remove the twoscrews, on the side at the rear of the shiftbox holding the two halves together. Separ-ate the two halves.

OBSERVEObserve how one side accommodates the

throttle and the other. side the shift mech-anism. Notice the plastic plate between thetwo halves. This plate prevents any contact between the shift parts and those for thethrottle.

Throttle Half Disassembling 2- Remove the screw attaching the

throttle handle to the shift box. Lift thethrottle handle and rocker free of the shiftbox. If the handle is to be replaced, the

NEUTRAl

SHIFT RANGEshift ball on the end of the handle must beremoved and SAVED because a new ball is not included with a new handle or a newrocker.

3- Remove the two Allen screws, secur-ing the ratchet to the end of the shift cable,

and then pull the ratchet free of the cableend. Take care not to loose the small brasssleeve.

GOOD WORDSAs the ratchet is removed from the

cable end, take notice of exactly where theAllen screws made contact with the cable asan aid during installation. Remove thesmall sleeve from the ratchet.

Shift Half Disassembling 4- Lift the lever handle asembly free of

the shift box. 5- Remove the ratchet from the end of

shift cable. This is accomplished by loosen-ing the Allen screws in the sleeve andpulling the ratchet free of the cable. Takecare not to loose the small brass sleeve.


Check to be sure the teeth on the rockerof the shift and throttle handle are not wornor damaged. Inspect the ratchets removedfrom the end of the cables. The teethshould not be damaged or worn excessively.

Wash the outside and inside of the shiftbox halves with solvent and dry them thor-oughly with a cloth or compressed air.

Throttle Cable Lubrication6- If the throttle or shift cables are not

to be replaced, now is an excellent time tolubricate the inner wires. To lubricate theinner wire, remove the casing guide from

TRUNNION

SHIFTHANDLE

DOUBLE SHIFT LEVER 7-5

the cable at both ends. Attach an electricdrill to one end of the wire. Momentarilyturn the dirll on and off to rotate the wireand at the same time allow lubricant to flowinto the cable, as shown.

ASSEMBLING SHIFT BOX

CRITCAL WORDSLoca tion of the cable end is of the

upmost importance. One Allen screw mustbe tightened hard, until there is a definitecrimp in the wire. If the Allen screw is nottightened enough, the cable will slip in thesleeve and the adjustment will be lost.

1- On some shift and throttle cables notmanufactured by Johnson/Evinrude, the in-ner cable is made of stainless steel. Whenworking with one of these wires, the endmust be heated to remove the temper andthus allow the Allen screw to make a crimpin the wire. If the end of a stainless steelwire has a blue color, the temper has beenremoved. TAKE CARE not to overheat thestainless steel wire with a torch because it has a very low melting point.

Throttle Half Assembling 2- Insert the small sleeve onto the end

of the ratchet with the two Allen screwsstarted in the sleeve. Notice how the sleevehas a hole completely through it. The shift

CRIMPEDWIRE

7-6 ACCESSORIES

wire MUST pass through the hole and pro-trude out the end of the ratchet. Work theratchet onto the end of the shift cable.Continue working the ratchet onto the cableuntil the inner cable end is completelythrough the ratchet, but just flush with endsurface of the ratchet. Tighten one Allenscrew until a definite crimp is made in thecable, then tighten the other Allen screw securely.

3- Apply a coating of lubricant aroundthe pivot point of the throttle lever bushing.Set the lever in position inside the box half.Install the washer with the concave side ofthe washer on the same side as the screw.Install the screw. Move the throttle leverback-and-forth and check for freedom ofmovement.

Slip the ratchet and trunion into theshift box starting the last tooth on thethrottle rocker engaged with the last toothof the slider. Again, move the throttlelever back-and-forth and check for freedomof movement. Check to be sure the samenumber of teeth are engaging on the rockeras on the slider. The teeth indexing isextremely important and the key to a suc-cessful installation. The ratchet and rockerboth have the same number of teeth. Allteeth must be used on the ratchet androcker when the lever handle is moved tomaximum forward or aft.

TRUNNION

SHIFTHANDLE

Shift Half Assembling 4- Lay the shift ratchet in position in-

side the shift half of the box. Place theshift lever down over the top of the ratchet,with the last tooth on the lever rockerengaged with the last tooth of the slider.

Apply a coating of light lubricant ontothe surface of the gear teeth; the bottomand side walls of the rachet; and onto thefull length of the gear rack. Do not use ahard grease because it will ring and groove,leaving the assembly dry.

Install the divider separating the throttleand shift halves of the box. Bring the twobox halves together, and then install theretaining screws. Double check operation ofboth levers for smoothness and no evidenceof binding.

Install the shift box onto the side of theboat and secure it in place with the attach-ing hardware.

7-4 NEW-STYLE SffiFT LEVER SERVICE

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide a logi-cal sequence of tests, checks, and adjust-ments, designed to isolate and correct aproblem in the shift box operation.

The procedures and suggestions arekeyed by number to matching numberedillustrations as an aid in performing thework.

The two-lever shift boxes are fairly sim-ple in construction and operation. Seldomdo they fail creating problems requiringservice in addition to normal lubr ication.

Hard Shifting or Difficul t Throttle Advance

Checking Throttle SideRemove the throttle and shift control at

the engine. Now, at the shift box, attempt ~to move the throttle or shift lever. If thelever moves smoothly, without difficulty,the problem is immediatly isolated to the

Connecting a throttle cable with adjustable trun-nion.

engine. The problem may be in the towershaft between the connector of the throttleand the armature plate. The armature platemay be "frozen", unable to move properly.

If the problem with shifting is at theengine, the first place to check is the areawhere the shift lever extends through theexhaust housing. The bushing may be worn,or corroded. If the bushing requires re-placement, the engine powerhead must beremoved, see Chapter 3. Another cause of hard shifting is water entering the lowerunit. In this case the lower unit must bedisassembled, see Chapter 8.

If hard shifting is still encountered atthe shift box when the controls are discon-nected from the engine, the cables may becorroded, and require replacment, or lack oflubrication in the shift box has resulted inexcessive wear, or corrosion.

Unable to Obtain Full ShiftMovement or Full Throttle

Normally, this type of problem is theresult of improper shift box installation.This area includes connection of the shiftand throttle cables in the shift box. If thestainless steel inner wire was not heated andthe clamp did not hold the inner cable(wire), the wire could slip inside the sleeve

Attaching a shift cable, with non-adjustable trun-nion, to the shift arm.

NEW SHIFT LEVER 7-7

SPEED RANGE -,

NEUTRAL

FAST

Double lever Shift box installed with manual shiftlower unit engines. This Shift box is still in use andparts are available from OMC dealers.

and the cable would be shortened. There-fore, if it is not possible to obtain full shiftor full throttle, the shift box must be re-moved, opened, and checked for proper in-stallation work. The inner wire could alsoslip at the engine end of the control, butproblems at that end are very rare. Usuallyif improper installation work has been done at the engine end, the ability to shift at allis lost, or the throttle cannot not be actuat-ed.

Wire extended too far through the cable connector(slider). The end of the wire should be flush with theslider surface.

7-8 ACCESSORIES

REMOVAL

Removing Double Lever Shift Box 1- Remove the attaching hardware se-

curing the shift box to the side of the boat.Once the shift box is free, the service work may be performed in the boat. The cablesmay remain as routed. Remove the twoscrews, at the rear side of the shift box,holding the two halves together. Separatethe two halves,

OBSERVEObserve how one side accommodates the

throttle and the other side the shift mech-anism. Notice the metal plate between thetwo halves. This plate prevents any contactbetween the shift parts and those for thethrottle. Notice the friction screw andthrottle stop on the throttle side of the box.

The shift side of the box does not haveany adjustments, except for the low idlestop. Observe how the shift lever pivots atthe bottom and the throttle lever pivots atthe top.

DISASSEMBLING

Throttle Half 2- Remove the screw from the center of

the throttle lever. Not ice how the washerhas a concave side to allow the screw to fitflush with the washer. Loosen the screw onthe top side of the shift box to relieve

Divider plate to separate the shift half componentsfrom the throttle half parts inside the control box.

pressure on the anti-friction knob. Lift thelever and throttle cable free of the shiftbox. Notice how the cable on the trunnionhas two small caps --one on the undersideand the other on top.

3- Loosen the two screws securing thegear rack to the end of the throttle cableand remove the end of the cable from thethrottle lever. Take care not to lose the

small sleeve from the end of the rack towhich the screws were attached. Push outthe center square button, and then remove the rack from the shift lever.

Shift Half Disassembling 4- Remove the screw and washer from

the bottom of the shift lever. Notice howthis washer also has a concave side to accommodate the screw. Lift the lever andshift cable free of the shift box. Not icehow the cable on the trunnion has two smallcaps -- one on the underside and the otheron top.

NEW SHIFT LEVER 7-9

5- Loosen the two screws securing thegear rack to the end of the throttle cableand remove the end of the cable from thethrottle lever. Take care not to lose thesmall sleeve from the end of the rack towhich the screws were attached. Push outthe center square button, and then removethe rack from the shift lever.


Check the nylon wear block on the endof the anti-friction cap. The cap has teethwhich index into the inside diameter of thethrottle lever. If the teeth are damaged anew block may be purchased and slipped intoplace. Clean the box halves thoroughlyinside and out with solvent, and then drythem with compressed air. Inspect thespring on the anti-friction lever to be sure itis not distorted. Check the screw on thethrottle idle stop to ensure it moves in andout freely without any sign of binding.

Throttle Cable LubricationIf the throttle or shift cables are not to

be replaced, now is an excellent time tolubricate the inner wire.

6- To lubricate the inner wire, removethe casing guide from the cable at bothends. Attach an electric drill to one end of

7-10 ACCESSORIES

Ithe wire. Momentarily turn the drill on andoff to rotate the wire and at the same timeallow lubricant to flow into the cable, asshown.

ASSEMBLING

Throttle Cable into Shift Box 1- If the slider sleeve was removed from

the throttle lever, install the ratchet intothe throttle lever with the hole on the endfor securing the throttle cable on the oppo-site end of the hole that accommodates thecable. Position the center of the ratchetwith the center of the throttle lever. Installthe square nylon plug with the holes in theplug in a vertical position to perrnit thecable to slide through. Two different sizescrews, or possibly Allen screws, are usee! oneach end of the sleeve. Install the shortscrew into the bottom of the sleeve toprevent the sleeve from rubbing on the shiftbox. Install the longer screw on the top partof the sleeve. Install the sleeve with thehole in the sleeve aligned with the hole for the cable.

CRITICAL WORDS , Check the end of the cable to determine

if the temper has been removed. If the end

INSERT PULLED OUTCASING GUIDE

has a bluish appearance, it has been heatedat an earlier date and the temper removed. The temper MUST be removed to permit theholding screw to make a crimp in the wire to hold an adjustment. If the wire has netbeen tempered, heat the end, but not enough to mel t the wire.

2- Slide the cable into the ratchet.\Vork the inner wire into the sleeve and outthe end of the ratchet. Push the wire backuntil the end is flush with the ratchet sur-face. Tighten the TOP holding screw enoughto make a definite crimp in the wire, asshown. If this screw is not tightened tomake the crimp, the wire will sllo duringoperation and the adjustment will be lost.After the top screw has been fully tighten-ed, bring the other screw up tight againstthe wi reo It is not necessary for this secondscrew to make a crimp in the wire.

3- Work the throttle lever handle downover the friction nylon block and at thesame time feed the throttle cable into placein the box half. Check to be sure one of thesmall caps is on the bottom side of thetrunnion. Install the washer and the screwwith the concave side of the washer on thesame side as the screw. Tighten the screwsecurely. Install the other trunnion cap ontop of the trunnion. Check the throttlelever for ease of movement with no sign ofbinding.

Shift Cable into Shift Box 4- If the slider sleeve was removed from

the shift lever, install the slide rack into theshift lever with the hole on the end for securing the shift cable on the opposite endof the hole that will accommodate the ca-ble. Position the center of the slide withthe center of the shift lever. Install the

NEW SHIFT LEVER 7-1 ,

~quare n~lon plu& ~ith the holes in the plugIn a ver tical pOSItIOnto permit the cable toslide through. Two different size screws are used on each end of the sleeve. Install theshort screw into the bottom of the sleeve to prevent the sleeve from rubbing on the shiftbox. Install the longer screw on the top partof the sleeve. Install the sleeve with thehole in the sleeve aligned with the hole forthe cable.

CRITICAL WORDSCheck the end of the cable to determine

if the temper has been removed. If the endhas a bluish appearance, it has been heatedat an earlier date and the temper removed.The temper MUST be removed to permit theholding screw to make a crimp in the wireto hold an adjustment. If the wire has not been tempered, heat the end, but not enoughto melt the wire.

Slide the cable into the rack. Work theinner wire into the sleeve and out the end ofthe rack. Push the wire back until the endis flush with the rack surface. Tighten theTOP holding screw enough to make a defi-nite crimp in the wire, as shown. If thisscrew is not tightened to make the crimp,the wire will slip during operation and theadjustment will be lost. After the top screwhas been fully tightened, bring the otherscrew up tight against the wire. It is notnecessary for this second screw to make acrimp in the wire.

5- Place the wavy washer and regularwasher into the shift box, and then work theshift lever handle down into the shift boxwith one of the small caps under the shift

7-12 ACCESSORIES

cable trunion. Install the bushing into thebottom of the shift handle. Install thewasher and the screw with the concave sideof the washer on the same side as the screw.Tighten the screw securely. Install theother trunion cap on top of the trunion. Check the shift lever for ease of movementwith no sign of binding.

6- Place the metal separator betweenthe two halves. Bring the two halves to-gether and secure them with the two screwsfrom the back side. Install the box in theboat and secure it in place with the attach-ing hardware. Again check the levers forease of movement and no sign of binding.

7-5 ELECTRIC GEAR BOXESAND SINGLE LEVER CONTROL

TROUBLESHOOTING

The following paragraphs provide a logi-cal sequence of tests, checks, and adjust-ments, designed to isolate and correct aproblem in the Johnson single lever shift boxwith the warm-up lever to the rear and theEvinrude single lever pushbutton shift boxoperation.

The procedures and suggestions are key-ed by number to matching numbered illus-trations as an aid in performing the work.

1- Difficult Shift Operation Many times this type of problem is the

result of incorrect cable installation -- the

NO SLACK

SLACK

1f

cable is not the proper length or there aretoo many bends or kinks in the routing.Such an installation will cause the innercable to travel much further than necessaryand therefore, wear on the outer cable.Over a period of time, inner cable wear willresult is difficult shifting or throttle opera-tion.

BE SURE to cycle the shift lever to thefull position in both directions, when making any test on the shift box. The shift switchmay have a dead spot and will not indicate the switch is defective unless the shift leveris fully cycled for each test.

2- Amp Draw Test Turn the ignition switch to the ON posi-

tion and note the ammeter reading. Now,opera te the shift control lever to the FOR-WARD position, and then to the REVERSEposition. Note how much the ammeterreading increased each time the shift leverwas moved. If the reading was more than2.5 amperes for either shift positions, con-tinue with the following checks. If the boatis not equipped with an ampere gauge, thentemporar ily disconnect the GREEN andBROWN (or RED) wires from the back sideof the key switch and temporarily install an

amp gauge for the test. Replace the wiresafter the test is completed.

Disconnect the shift leads at the rear ofthe engine. Temporarily lay a piece of cloth or other insulating material under the wiresto prevent them from shorting out during the following tests.

Again operate the shift lever and notethe current loss. If the current draw is stillmore than 2.5 amperes, then check for ashort in the control box switch or wiring. Ifthe current draw is normal with the leadsdisconnected from the engine, then checkfor a short in the gear case coilts) or wiring.If the coil leads are shorted to each other,both shift coils would be energized, stallingthe engine or causing serious damage to thedr iveshaf t,

3- Shift Coil Tests Testing the shifting coils is accomplished

by first disconnecting the wires at the rearof the engine. Next, connect an ohmmeterfirst to one shift coil lead and ground, andthen to the other in the same manner. Areading of more than 1+.5 to 6.5 ohms indi-cates a short in the coil or lead. No readingat all indicates an open circuit. If theresults of this test indicate a short in thecirucit , the lower unit must be disassembledand inspected. See Chapter 8.

4- Testing Shift Switch - Forward To test the switch for the FORWARD

position, make contact with one probe of acontinuity meter (or a test light) to theterminal (purple or red lead) and to theforward (green lead) terminal with the otherprobe. Now, move the shift lever to theFORWARD position. The meter should indi-cate continuity (or the test light come on),

ELECTRIC GEAR BOXES 7-13

when the shift lever is in the FOR WARDposition.

5- Testing Shift Switch - Reverse To test the shift switch for reverse,

make contact with one probe of a continuitymeter (or test light), to the terminal (pur-ple or red lead) and to the reverse terminal(blue lead) with the other probe. Move theshift lever to the REVERSE position.

The meter should indicate continuity (orthe test light come on), when the lever is inthe reverse position.

6- Testing Shift Switch - Neutral After the forward and reverse tests have

been completed check for continuity withthe shift lever in the NEUTRAL position.Leave the red lead connected and check theblue lead (REVERSE) and the green lead(FORWARD). Continuity should not be indi-cated when the shift handle is in NEUTRAL.

7-14 ACCESSORIES

If the switch is defective and requires re-placement, proceed to Section 7-6, SingleLever Shift Box Service.

7- Cranking System InoperativeIf the starter fails to crank the engine,

check to be sure the throttle lever is in theidle position. If the throttle is advancedmore than 1/4 forward, the cutout switchattached to the armature plate will open thecircuit to the starter solenoid. If the crank-ing system fails to operate the starter pro-perly when the throttle lever is in the IDLEposition, check the 20-ampere fuse betweenthe ingition switch BAT terminal and theammeter GEN terminal.

If the starter operates in full throttle(which it should not do), check for a shortbetween the two white leads in the shift boxwiring.

Further problems in the cranking systemmay indicate more serious problems. SeeChapter 6, starter motor sections.

DISASSEMBLING

GOOD WORDSOn Johnson units, a friction screw is

installed in the bottom side of the shift box.This screw allows friction adjustment of thethrottle handle. This arrangement preventsthe throttle handle from "creeping" afterthe operator releases his grip on the handle.The box has a maximum advance screw.The adjustment is made through movementof a screw in the warmup lever. If theengine shuts down when the throttle lever ismoved back, then an adjustment must bemade at. the engine. This is accomplishedthrough an adjustment knob at the engine.Movement of this knob will actuallylengthen or shorten the cable slightly forproper operation.

1- Remove the attaching screws; pullthe shift box clear; and then disconnect the shift wire under the dash. Remove thescrews from the back side of the box.

2- CAREFULLY separa te the twohalves. Check the shift box for salt watercorrosion, worn bushings, and general condi-tion.

Throttle CableNotice how the throttle cable enters the

throttle half of the shift box through theidle link. On the top side of the shift box,

FRONTHOUSING

EXTREMEOPPOSITEPOSITION

IDLEPOSITION

NEUTRALPOSITION

observe the screw and the concave washer.The washer must be installed with the con-cave side toward the screw to allow thescrew to seat properly.

3- Remove the bushing from the shiftrod. Observe the two slots in the bushing and how the flat area without a hole facestoward you. The bushing must be installed in this same position.

4- Remove the screw and washer fromthe top of the shift box half. This is thescrew and washer described in the previousparagraph. Lift out the cam lever and theidle link as an assembly.

5- Remove the screws from the end ofthe sleeve on the end of the cable, and then pull the throttle cable free of the link andsleeve.

6- If the switch fails to check out, asdescribed in the previous tests, the switchand cable assembly MUST be replaced. Theswitch is easily removed by simply removingthe attaching screws and lifting the switchfree of the shift box.

SINGLE LEVER SHIFT BOX 7-15

SCREW ANDWASHER


Clean the box halves thoroughly insideand out with solvent and blow them dry withcompressed air. Apply a thin coat of engineoil on all metal parts. The three-positionswitch installed i~ the gear box cannot berepaired. Therefore, if a problem is isolatedto the switch, it must be replaced.

CONTROLGUIDE

7-16 ACCESSORIES

Interior view of a used shift box showing the resultsof an improper installation. The inner wire was notcrimped to hold the adjustment. The wire, therefore,slipped through and was bent as the casting struck theShift box during operation.

Throttle Cable Lubrication If the throttle cable is not to be replac-

ed, now is an excellent time to lubricate theinner wire.

7- To lubricate the inner wire, removethe casing guide from the cable at bothends. Attach an electric drill to one end ofthe wire. Momentarily turn the drill on andoff to rotate the wire and at the same timeallow lubricant to flow into the cable, asshown.

ASSEMBLING


if the temper has been removed. If the endhas a bluish appearance, it has been heatedat an earlier date and the temper removed.The te mper MUST be re moved to permit theholding screw to make a crimp in the wire

THROTTLE

CDto hold an adjustment. If the wire has notbeen tempered, heat the end, but not enough to melt the wire.

Tighten the top screw in the sleeve untilthe screw makes a crimp in the wire. Thescrew must be tightened to this degree toprevent the wire from slipping during opera-tion. Bring the bottom screw up tightagainst the wire.

1- Start the two cable retaining screwsinto the sleeve. These screws are differentsizes.: On some models, Allen screws areused. Install the short screw on the bottomto prevent the sleeve from rubbing on theshift box.. Slide the sleeve onto the cablewith the hole aligned with the hole in theplastic sleeve. Feed the wire on throughuntil the end of the wire is flush with theend of the white plastic sleeve.

2- Lower the shift link and throttle linkinto the box half and secure the throttle linkwith the screw and washer. Check to besure the concave side of the washer isfacing toward the screw side to permit thescrew to seat properly.

3- Slide the throttle cable through theidle link, and then slide the bushing down over the cable.

SCREW ANDWASHER

4- AL WAYS TAKE CARE when as-sembling the shift box, not to damage .theremote-control unit. The arm on the switchMUST lay in the cut-out portion of thethrottle cam.

5- Carefully work the two halves of thebox together with the cam lever fitting intothe recess of the throttle handle and thethrottle link fitting into the warm-up lever.

6- Secure the two halves together withthe screws into the side of the box. Securethe shift box to the side of the boat with theattaching hardware. Bolts with self-lockingnuts SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED because a loose shift box during high speed operationcould be extremely dangerous. Connect theshift wire under the dash.

SINGLE LEVER SHIFT BOX 7-17

EXTREME OPPOSITEpas ITION

o

" IDLEPOSITION

7- The tension of the throttle lever isadjusted by the friction knob under the shiftbox. Turn the knob clockwise to increasefriction and counterclockwise to decreasefriction.

g; Remote-Control Cable InstallationIn the Boat

The remote-control cable must be in-stalled properly for satisfactory operation.The clamp nearest the shift box MUST be positioned correctly as follows:

First move the warm-up lever on the, 36"shift box to full advance. Now, measure(actually this measurement could range

7-18 ACCESSORIES

from 33" to 42") on the cable from the shiftbox. BE SURE there is no slack in thecable, and then secure the clamp to the boatat the measured position.

Next, place the warm-up lever in theslow position and observe the amount ofslack in the cable between the shift box andthe first clamp. The slack should not bemore than 1/2 Inch. AVOID SHARP TURNSin the cable. The radius of any bend MUSTnot be less than 5".

ALWAYS use the correct length of cablewhen replacing the assembly.

9- Adjusting Starter Lockout SwitchMove the shift lever to the NEUTRAL

position and the warm-up lever to theSTART position. Now, turn the ignition

ADVANCE

NO SLACK

switch to the START position in an attemptto crank the engine. If the starter fails tocrank the engine, move the warm-up leverto the IDLE position, and then rotate thesetscrew counterclockwise one-half turn.Move the auxiliary throttle to the STARTposition, and then turn the ignition switch tothe START position again. If the starterstill fails to crank the engine with thewarm-up lever in the full ADVANCE posi-tion, back off the warm-up lever to deter-mine the point at which the starter ceasesto operate. Make the adjustment of thesetscrew clockwise a half-turn at a timeuntil the starter operates only with thewarm-up lever in the full START position.

7-6 PUSHBUTTON SHIFT BOX SERVICEEVINRUDE UNITS ONL Y

GOOD WORDSA friction screw is installed in the bot-

tom side of the shift box. This screw allowsfriction adjustment of the throttle handle.This arrangement prevents the throttle han-dle from "creeping" after the operator re-leases his grip on the handle. A thumb-screw on the front of the box permits ad-justment of the throttle handle to preventmovement past a satisfactory idle positionand subsequent shutdown of the engine. Ifadequate adjustment cannot be made at theshift box, and the the engine continues to

shut down when the throttle lever is movedback, then an adjustment must be made atthe engine. This is accomplished through anadjustment knob at the engine. Movementof the engine knob will actually lengthen orshorten the cable slightly for proper opera-tion.

The following paragraphs provide a logi-cal sequence of tests, checks, and adjust-ments, designed to isolate and correct aproblem in the Johnson single lever shift boxwith the warm-up lever to the rear and the Evinrude single lever pushbutton shift boxoperation.

The procedures and suggestions are key-ed by number to matching numbered illus-trations as an aid in performing the work.

Many times this type of problem is theresult of incorrect cable installation -- thecable is not the proper length or there aretoo many bends or kinks in the routing. Such an installation will cause the innercable to travel much further than necessaryand therefore, wear on the outer cable.Over a period of time, inner cable wear willresult is difficult shifting or throttle opera-tion.

BE SURE to cycle all three shift push-buttons to the full shift position in bothdirections, when making any test on theshift box. The shift switch may have adead spot and will not indicate the switch isdefective unless the three buttons are fully cycled for each test.

1- Amp Draw TestTurn the ignition switch to the ON posi-

tion and note the ammeter reading. Now,depress the shift button for the FORWARDposition, and then for the REVERSE posi-tion. Note how much the ammeter reading

increased each time a shift button was de-pressed. If the reading was more than 2.5amperes for either shift positions, continuewith the following checks. If the boat is notequipped with an ampere gauge, then temp-orarily disconnect the GREEN and BROWN(or RED) wires from the back side of the key switch and temporarily install an amp gaugefor the test. Replace the wires after thetest is completed.

Disconnect the shift leads at the rear ofthe engine. Temporarily lay a piece of clothor other insulating material under the wiresto prevent them from shorting out duringthe following tests.

Again operate the shift buttons and notethe current loss. If the current draw is stillmore than 2.5 amperes, then check for ashort in the control box switch or wiring. Ifthe current draw is normal with the leadsdisconnected from the engine, then checkfor a short in the gear case coills) or wiring.If the coil leads are shorted to each other,both shift coils would be energized, stallingthe engine or causing serious damage to thedr iveshaft.

2- Shift Coil TestsTesting the shifting coils is accomplished

by first disconnecting the wires at the rearof the engine. Next, connect an ohmmeterfirst to one shift coil lead and ground, andthen to the other in the same manner. Areading of more than 4.5 to 6.5 ohms indi-cates a short in the coil or lead. No readingat all indicates an open circuit. If theresults of this test indicate a short in thecirucit, the lower unit must be disassembled and inspected. See Chapter 8.

7-20 ACCESSORIES

3- Testing Shift Switch - ForwardTo test the switch for the FORWARD

position, make contact with one probe of acontinuity meter (or a test light) to theterminal (purple or red lead) and to theforward (green lead) terminal with the otherprobe. Now, depress each pushbutton forthe. FORWARD, NEUTRAL, and REVERSEpositions. The meter should indicate conti-nuity (or the test light come on), when theFORWARD button is depressed, and indicatean open circuit, for the other two shiftpositions.

4- Testing Shift Switch - ReverseTo test the shift switch for reverse,

make contact with one probe of a continuitymeter (or test light), to the terminal (pur-ple or red lead) and to the reverse terminal(blue lead) with the other probe. Again,depress the FORWARD, NEUTRAL, and RE-VERSE pushbuttons.

The meter should indicate continuity (orthe test light come on), for the reverseposition and indicate an open circuit, in theother two.

5- Testing Shift Switch - NeutralAfter the forward and reverse tests have

been completed check for continuity with the NEUTRAL pushbutton. Leave the redlead connected and check the blue lead(REVERSE) and the green lead (FORWARD).Continuity should not be indicated when the NEUTRAL pushbutton is depreessed.

If the switch is defective and requiresreplacement, proceed to section 7-6, SingleLever Shift Box Service.

6- Cranking System InoperativeIf the starter fails to crank the engine,

check to be sure the throttle lever is in theidle position. If the throttle is advanced

%-AMPFUSE

more than 1/4- forward, the cutout switchattached to the armature plate will open the circuit to the starter solenoid. If the crank-ing system fails to operate the starter prop-erly when the throttle lever is in the IDLEposition, check the 20-ampere fuse betweenthe ingition switch BAT terminal and theammeter GEN terminal.

If the starter operates at full throttle(which it should not do), check for a shortbetween the two white leads in the shift boxwiring.

Further problems in the cranking systemmay indicate more serious problems. SeeChapter 6, starter motor sections.

DISASSEMBLING

The throttle cable and switch box maybe replaced without removing the shift boxfrom the boat. If the only service to beperformed is replacement of the cable,leave the shift box in place.

1- Remove the Phillips screws on theside plate of the shift box. Remove thefront side cover.

2- Notice the screw and retainer at theforward end of the casing guide and justbelow the throttle lever. Remove the screw and retainer. Pull the throttle cable andcasting guide free of the shift box. Takecare not loose the trunion caps, one on the top and another on the bottom.

3- Remove the screws from the end ofthe casting guide and then pull the throttle cable free. TAKE CARE not to loose thescrews and sleeve from the end of the guide.

Shift Switch Removal 4- Remove the four Phillips screws from

the top of the shift box, and then lift off theshift box cover around the push buttons •

••SCREWAJS IX PLACES)

PUSJ-IBUTTONSHIFT BOX 7-21

5- Pull upward and remove the threepush buttons. New buttons are not suppliedwith replacement switches. Therefore,SAVE the THREE BUTTONS for installationwith the new switch.

6- Pull the red, green, and blue wiresfrom the bottom of the switch box.

7- Notice the two small Phillips screwson top of the switch box holding the switchto the retainer. Remove these two screws.

8- Work the switch out of the switchbox.

SCREW(FOUR PLACES)

7-22 ACCESSORIES


Clean the box halves thoroughly insideand out with solvent and blow them dry withcompressed air. Apply a thin coat of engineoil on all metal parts. The three-positionswitch installed in the gear box cannot berepaired. Therefore, if a problem is isolatedto the switch it must be replaced.

Throttle Cable LubricationIf the throttle cable is not to be replac-

ed, now is an excellent time to lubricate theinner wire.

9- To lubricate the inner wire, removethe casing guide from the cable at both ends. Attach an electr ic drill to one end ofthe wire. Momentarily turn the drill on and

off to rotate the wire and at the same timeallow lubricant to flow into the cable, as shown.

ASSEMBLING

Switch Installation 1- Position the switch box inside the

shift box underneath the retainer and sliderand secure it in place with the two Phillipsscrews. Check to be sure the two terminalson the bottom side of the switch are to-wards you. This will place the forwardbutton closest to the throttle handle.

2- Install the two small Phillips screwsinto the top of the shift box. These twoscrews secure the switch box to the retain-er.

3- Connect the wires to the bottom ofthe switch. Connect the red wire to thePOSITIVE terminal; the green to the FOR-WARD terminal; and the blue wire to theREVERSE terminal.

4- Slide the buttons down over the pro-trusions of the switch and seat them inplace.

Adjustment 5- Temporarily install the side plate,

and then move the throttle hand forwarduntil the boss mark on the bottom of thethrottle hand aligns with the mark on theside of the shift box panel.

6- Remove the panel and depress thethree buttons one at-a-time. If it is notpossible to depress the buttons, loosen the two screws on the selector bracket. Movethe bracket forward or aft until the buttonscan be depressed. Tighten the screws tosecure the bracket in the proper position.

7- Install the shift box cover and secureit in place with the four screws.

PUSH3UTTON SHIFT BOX 7-23

CRITICAL WORDSIf the throttle adjustment is not properly

performed, the circuit to the starter sole-noid will be opened preventing the startermotor from cranking the engine. Adjust-ment is made by moving the throttle cablead justm ent knob in the trunion on the sideof the engine.

7-24 ACCESSORIES

Check the end of the cable to determineif the temper has been removed. If the endhas a bluish appearance, it has been heatedat an earlier date and the temper removed.The temper MUST be removed to permit theholding screw to make a crimp in the wireto hold an adjustment. If the wire has notbeen tempered, heat the end, but not enoughto melt the wire.

8- Feed the inner cable into the casingguide and align it with the hole in thesleeve. Tighten the two Allen screws in thesleeve until one screw makes a crimp in thewire. The screw must be tigh tened to thisdegree to prevent the wire from slippingduring operation. Bring the other Allenscrew up tight against the wire.

9- Install the cable and cable end intothe shift box with the trunion cap on thebottom side. Lower the cable trunion re-tainer into the recess and at the same tlrneinstall the end of the shift cable sleeve 'Overthe end of the protrusion. Install the othertrunion cap over the top of the cable retain-er.

Slide the retaining clip over the end ofthe guide. The guide slips over a pin and theretainer has a hole in the end. The retainerfi ts over the pin and holds the end of thethrottle cable onto the pin. Install the sideplate with the attaching Phillips screws.Start the engine and run it at 700 rpm.


Now, adjust the slide yoke to allow thepushbuttons to be depressed at 700 rpm, but not at 750 rpm. If it is not possible todepress the buttons at 700 rpm, remove theside panel and loosen the two screws on the

selector bracket. Move the bracket forwardor aft until the buttons can be depressed.To adjust the friction knob under the shiftbox, turn the knob clockwise to increasefriction and counterclockwise to decreasefriction.

7-7 CABLE END ATTING INSTALLATIONAT THE ENGINE END

FIRST, THESE WORDSIn the early days, the throttle and shift

cables were installed using non-adjustabletrunions. The trunions were installed on theends of the cables and formed the connec-tion for the cables to the engine. The innercable (wire) moved in both directions inside the outer cable and actuated the mechanismat the engine.

The anchor on the engine, to which thetrunion is attached, has a "P" and an "S"stamped on the inside diameter or inside edge of the trunion retainers. These lettersidentified PORT and STARBOARD.

As improvements and refinements wereincorporated over the years, new cables andtrunions became adjustable through thetrunion.

The non-adjustable unit is totally obso-lete and no longer available. Therefore, ifthe old-style cable with the non-adjustabletrunion requires replacement, the new ad-justable type will be installed.

When the new cable and trunion are tobe installed, a new trunion retainer MUST bepurchased and installed port and starboard

SHIFT NOT ADJUSTABLEJ

Attaching the non-adjustable shift cable to the shiftarm, top, and connecting the throttle cable to the non-adjustable trunnion, bottom.

Attaching a shift cable with adjustable trunnion tothe shift arm, top, and connecting the throttle cablewith adjustable trunnion, bottom.

on the engine. The new cable and trunionCANNOT be connected to the old-style re-tainer.

INST ALLA TION

Shift Cable End 1- Move the control lever at the shift

control box to the NEUTRAL position. Slidethe gear shift fitting onto the control wire.Check to be sure the inner wire passescompletely through the small holes in the cable clamp. Clamp the anchor screws toprevent twisting the cable. The clamp andthe anchor screws MUST be parallel to thetrunion on the gear shift cable.

2- Notice the flat and rounded areas ofthe casting guide. The flat edge MUST faceTOWARD the engine. In this position, thereis a flat area for the lever to ride during theshifting action. After the cable is in place

TRUNNION

Proper installation of the throttle cable into thetrunnion at the engine end.

CABLE END FITTING 7-25

Detailed draWing of the shift trunnion at the engine.

in the casting guide, tighten the top screwuntil a definite crimp is made in the cable.If the screw is not tightened enough, theinner wire will slip during operation and theadjustment will be lost.


if the temper has been removed. If the endhas a bluish appearance, it has been heatedat an earlier date and the temper removed.The te mper MUST be re moved to permit theholding screw to make a crimp in the wireto hold an adjustment. If the wire has notbeen tempered, heat the end, but not enoughto melt the wire. Bring the second screw uptight against the wire.

3- Insert the shift cable control verti-cally into the trunion bracket and turn thecable to a horizontal position, as indicatedby the arrows in the accompanying illustra-tion.

4- Attach the shift cable end to theshift lever on the engine by inserting the fitting into the shift control lever, and then

SCREW

LOCKING PLUG

7-26 ACCESSORIES

SHIFTNOT ADJUSTABLE

I

pushing inward, and at the same time rotat-ing the fitting 1/2-turn. This action willlock the fitting in the shift lever.

Throttle Cable End Installation5- Install the throttle lock pin spring

over the casting guide. Start the screwsinto the small cylinder, and then slide thecylinder down through the pin spring andinto the casting guide. Notice how thecylinder has a hole. This hole should bepositioned vertically with the casting toalign with the hole in the guide. Slide thecasing guide down over the throttle cableand insert the end of the wire through thesleeve. Tighten the top screw until a defi-nite crimp is made in the wire.

LONG CABLECLAMP

TRUNNION


if the temper has been removed. If the endhas a bluish appearance, it has been heatedat an earlier date and the temper removed.The temper MUST be removed to permit theholding screw to make a crimp in the wireto hold an adjustment. If the screw is nottightened to this degree, the wire will slipduring operation and the adjustment will be lost. If the wire has not been tempered,heat the end, but not enough to melt thewire. Bring the bottom screw up tightagainst the wire.

6- Install the trunion retainers to theengine, if necessary. Check to be sure theretainer with "P" stamped on the inside isinstalled on the PORT side of the engine andthe retainer with the "S" installed on theSTARBOARD side. Connect the trunioncap to the trunion retainer. This is accom-plished by holding the trunion in a verticalposition; inserting it into the retainer; andthen turning it to the horizontal position, asshown.

7- Slide the guide over the pin onto theengine, and then snap the retainer clip over the end of the guide to lock it in place.

Cable Ad justm entsSee Chapter 8, Lower Unit, to properly

adjust the shift cable and to adjust the throttle cable.

8LOWER UNIT

8-1 DESCRIPTION

The lower unit is considered as that partof the outboard below the exhaust housing.The unit contains the propeller shaft, thedriven and pinion gears, the driveshaft fromthe powerhead and the water pump. Onmodels equipped with shifting capabilities,the forward and reverse gears, togetherwith the dutch, shift assembly, and relatedlinkage, are all housed within the lower unit.

The lower unit is removed by one of fourmethods depending on the model year andthe engine horsepower.

1- Removal of the power head is neces-sary before the lower unit can be serviced.

2- The window on the exhaust housingmay be opened and the shift coupler discon-nected.

3- The lower unit is lowered a coupleinches and the shift coupler removed.

Non-shift lower unit with the drive gear, cap, andpropeller shaft shown.

4- The lower unit does not have shiftingcapabilities, therefore, removal of the unitis not an invol ved procedure.

To determine the proper procedures tofollow, simply check the Appendix for theengine being serviced.

CHAPTER COVERAGE

Four different lower units are covered inthis chapter with separate sections for each.

The first type unit, presented in Section8-5, covers the 1.5 hp to 4- hp engines withno shift capabilities.

The second type unit, presented inSection 8-6, covers the 5.0 hp to the 25 hpengines with mechanical shift.

The third unit, presented in Section 8-7,covers the 28 hp to 4-0 hp engines withmechanical shift. These units are verysimilar to those covered in Section 8-6

Mechanical shift lower unit for a 5 hp to 25 hp engine with the cap removed, exposing the internalparts.

8-2 LOWER UNIT

except for the type of bearings installed andtherefore slightly different assemblingprocedures.

The fourth type units, presented inSection 8-8, are the lower units withelectric shift.

Water pump service work is by far themost common reason for removal of thelower unit. Each lower unit service section contains complete detailed procedures torebuild the water pump. The instructionsgiven to prepare for the water pump workmust be performed as listed. However, oncethe pump is ready for installation, if noother work is to be performed on the lowerunit, the reader may jump to the pumpassembling procedures and proceed with in-stallation of the water pump.

Each section is presented with completedetailed instructions for removal, disas-sembly, cleaning and inspecting, assembling,adjusting, and installation of only one typeunit.

ILLUSTRATIONS

Because this chapter covers such a widerange of models over an extended period oftime, the illustrations included with theprocedural steps are those of the most pop-ular lower units. In some cases, the unitbeing serviced may not appear to be identi-cal with the unit illustrated. However, thestep-by-step work sequence will be valid inall cases. If there is a special procedure fora unique lower unit, the differences will beclearly indicated in the step.

SPECIAL WORDSAll threaded parts are right-hand unless

otherwise indicated.If there is any water in the lower unit or

metal particles are discovered in the gearlubricant, the lower unit should be com-pletely disassembled, cleaned and inspected.

Gear arrangement used on the 40 hp manual Shiftlower unit.

Gear arrangement used on the 40 hp electromaticshift lower unit.

Actually, problems in the lower unit canbe classified into three broad areas.

1- Lack of proper lubrication in the 10\v-er unit. Most often, this is caused by failureof the operator to check the gear oil levelfrequently and to add lubricant when requir-ed.

2- Water entering the lower unitthrough a faulty seal. Water allowed toremain in the lower unit over a period ofnon-use time will separate from the oil andcan be destructive.

3- Excessive clutch dog and clutch earwear on the forward and reverse gears. Thiscondition is caused by excessive wear in thebellcrank under the power head. A wornbellcrank will result in sloppy shifting of thelower unit and cause the clutch componentsto wear and develop shifting problems. Im-proper shifting techniques at the shift boxwill also result in excessive wear to theclutch dog and dutch ears of the forwardand reverse gears.

8-2 TROUBLESHOOTINGMANUAL SHIFT

Troubleshooting MUST be done BEFOREthe unit is removed from the powerhead topermit isolating the problem to one area.Always attempt to proceed with trouble-shooting in an orderly manner. The shotgunapproach will only result in wasted time,incorrect diagnosis, replacement of unnec-cessary parts, and frustration.

The following procedures are presented ~in a logical sequence with the most preva-lent, easiest, and less costly items to bechecked listed first.

Arrangement of propeller shaft parts used on most1.5 hp to 4 hp engines.

Unable to Shift into Forward or ReverseRemove the propeller and check to de-

termine if the shear pin has been broken. Ifthe unit being serviced has the shear pin atthe rear of the propeller, the propellershould be removed and the shear pin check-ed at the rear of the propeller shaft.

Check the bellcrank under the power-head. This is accomplished by first checkingin the Appendix to determine the type ofshift mechanism installed on the unit beingserviced. If the Appendix check reveals thepowerhead must be removed in order tocheck the shift mechanism, then the power-head must be removed. If the unit has awindow in the exhaust housing, then thewindow must be removed. Hold the shiftrod with a pair of pliers and at the sametime attempt to move the shift lever on the starboard side of the engine. If it is possibleto move the shift lever, the bellcrank is worn.

Location of the shear pin through the propeller shaftjust ahead of the propeller.

TROUBLESHOOTING 8-3

Arrangement of the shear pin, washer, and propellernut on a typical lower unit. In this case, the shear pinis installed just behind the washer.

If the engine is the type requirmg thelower unit to be lowered slightly to gainaccess to the shift rod: Lower the lowerunit slightly, and then hold the shift rodwith a pair of pliers and attempt to movethe shift lever on the starboard side of theengine. If the lever can move, the bellcrankis worn and must be repaired.

View into the exhaust housing after the powerheadhas been removed. The bellcrank part of the uppermechanical shift mechanism is clearly visible.

8-4 LOWER UNIT

View of a badly corroded lower unit, liater enteredand was allowed to remain over an extended period oftime causing extensive damage.

Water in the Lower UnitWater in the lower unit is usually caused

by fish line becoming entangled around thepropeller shaft behind the propeller anddamaging the propeller seal. If the line isnot removed, it will cut the propeller shaftseal and allow water to enter the lower unit.F ish line has also been known to cut agroove in the propeller shaft.

The propeller should be removed eachtime the boat is hauled from the water atthe end of an outing and any material en-tangled behind the propeller removed beforeit can cause expensive damage. The smallamount of time and effort involved inpulling the propeller is repaid many times byreduced maintenance and service work, in-cluding the replacement of expensive parts.

Slippage in the Lower UnitIf the shift seems to be slipping as the

boat moves through the water: Check the

Entangled fish line finally removed from ahead ofthe propeller. The line cut the seal. The damaged sealallowed water to enter the lower unit causing thedisaster shown in the illustration at the top of thiscolumn. The propeller should be removed frequentlyand debris removed from the rpropelier shaft to preventsuch costly repairs.

Cut-a-way view of a propeller showing the propel-ler, rubber hUb, and metal hub.

propeller and the rubber hub. If thepropeller has been subjected to many strikesagainst underwater objects, it could slip onits hub. If the hub is damaged orexcessively worn on the small propellers, itis not economical to have the hub orpropeller rebuilt. A new propeller may bepurchased for considerably less thanmeeting the expense of rebuilding an oldworn propeller.

Difficult ShiftingVerify that the ignition switch is OFF, or

better still, disconnect the spark plug wiresfrom the plugs, to prevent possible personalinjury, should the engine start. Shift theunit into REVERSE gear at the shift controlbox, and at the same time have an assistantturn the propeller shaft to ensure the clutchis fully engaged. If the shift handle is hardto move, the trouble may be in the lowerunit, with the shift cable, or in the shiftbox, if used.

Isolate the problem: Disconnect theshift cable, if used, at the engine. Operate the shift lever. If shifting is still hard, theproblem is in the shift cable or control box,see Chapter 7. If the shifting feels normal

Diagram to illustrate the shift cable hookup quickdisconnect at the engine.

with the shift cable disconnected, theproblem must be in the lower unit. Toverify the problem is in the lower unit, havean assistant turn the propeller and at thesame time move the shift cable back-and-forth. Determine if the clutch engagesproperly.

Jumping out of GearIf a loud thumping sound is heard at the

transom while the boat is underway, the unitis jumping out of gear, the propeller doesnot have a load, therefore the rushing waterunder the hull forces the lower unit in abackward direction. The unit jumps backinto gear; the propeller catches hold; thelower unit is forced forward again, and theresul t is the thumping sound as the action is repeated. Normally this type of actionoccurs perhaps once a day, then more fre-quently each time the clutch is operated,until finally the unit will not stay in gear foreven a short time.

The following areas must be checked tolocate the cause:

1- Check the bellcrank under the power-head. This is accomplished by first checkingin the Appendix to determine the type ofshift mechanism installed on the unit being

NEUTRAL

FAST

Diagram to illustrate the Shift positions and throttlerange of a dual lever shift control box.

TROUBLESHOOTING 8-5


serviced. If the Appendix check reveals thepower head must be removed in order tocheck the shift mechanism, then the power-head must be removed. If the unit has awindow in the exhaust housing, then thewindow must be removed. Hold the shiftrod with a pair of pliers and at the sametime attempt to move the shift lever on thestarboard side of the engine. If it is possibleto move the shift lever, the bellcrank isdamaged.

8-6 LOWER UNIT

If the engine is the type requirmg thelower unit to be lowered slightly to gainaccess to the shift rod: Lower the lowerunit slightly, and then hold the shift rodwith a pair of pliers and attempt to movethe shift lever on the starboard side of theengine. If the lever can move, the bellcrankis damaged and must be repaired.

2- Disconnect the shift cable at the en-gine. Attempt to shift the unit into forwardgear with the shift lever on the starboardside of the engine and at the same timerotate the propeller in an effort to shift intogear. Shift the control lever at the controlbox into forward gear. Move the shift cableat the engine up to the shift handle anddetermine if the cable is properly aligned.The control lever may have jumped a toothon the slider or on the shift lever arc. If atooth has been jumped, the cable would loseits adjustment and the unit would fail toshift properly. If the inner cable should slip on the end cable guide, the adjustmentwould be lost.

3- Move the shift lever at the engineinto the neutral position and the shift leverat the control box to the neutral position.Now, move the shift cable up to the shiftlever and see if it is aligned. Shift the unitinto reverse at the engine and shift thecontrol lever at the control box into re-verse. Move the cable up and see if it is

Frontal vtew of Q low horsepower engine showingthe mechanical shift lever on the starboard side.

Powerhead of a low horsepower engine removedexposing the interior of the exhaust housing. Thisbellcrank is quite different than the one shown on theprevious page.

aligned. If the cable is properly aligned, butthe unit still jumps out of gear when thecable is connected, one of three conditionsmay exist.

a- The bel1crank is worn excessively ordamaged.

b- The coupler at the connector at theshift rod is misaligned. This coupler is used

Window removed from a lower unit to gain access tothe shift connector, as explained in the text. The detaildraWing, upper left, illustrates the relationship of thebolt to the shift rod.

to connect the upper shift rod with thelower rod. If the coupler has not beeninstalled properly, any shifting will be diffi-cult.

c- Parts in the lower unit are worn fromextended use.

Frozen Power headThis condition is suggested when the

operator unsuccessfully attempts to crankthe engine, either with a hand starter orwith a starter motor. The flywheel will notrotate. Do not assume the engine is "froz-en" until the lower unit has been removedand thoroughly checked. If the lower unit is"locked" (the drivehsaft or propeller shaftwill not rotate), the power head will have theindication of being "frozen" (failure torotate the flywheel).

The first step to perform under theseconditions is to "pull" the lower unit, andthen again attempt to crank the engine. Ifthe attempt is successful with the lowerunit disconnected, the problem is in thelower unit. If the attempt to crank theengine is still unsuccessful, the problem is inthe powerhead.

8-3 PROPELLER REMOVAL

The shear pin on most outboard units isinstalled through the propeller shaft be-tween the propeller washer and the propell-er nut.

To remove the propeller,cotter key, and then removenut, shear pin, and washer.

first pull thethe propellerBecause the

Checking for a "frozen" powerhead or "locked" low-er unit. If the crankshaft can be rotated back-and-forth slightly with the hand starter, the problem is inthe lower unit, not the powerhead.

PROPELLER REMOVAL 8-7

Arrangement of the shear pin, washer, and propellernut on a typical lower unit. In this case, the shear pinis installed after the propeller and washer are in place.

shear pin is not a tight fit, the propeller isable to move on the pin and cause burrs onthe hole. The propeller may be difficult toremove because of these burrs. To over-come this problem, the propeller hub has

Installation of the shear pin before the propeller,and washer are installed.

8-8 LOWER UNIT

Propeller showing the grooves in the hub to easeremoval from the propeller shaft.

two grooves running the full length of thehub. Hold the shaft from turning, and thenrotate the propeller 1/4 turn to position thegrooves over the shear pin holes. The pro-peller can then be pulled straight off theshaft. After the propeller has been remov-ed, file the shear pin holes on both sides ofthe shaft to remove the burrs.

If the propeller is the type with theshear pin installed ahead of the propellernext to the bearing carrier, first remove thecotter key, then the propeller nut. Next,slide the propeller free of the shaft, andremove the shear pin.

Propeller installation procedures areoutlined at the end of each lower unitsection.

Lower unit showing the drain plug and the Phillipsscrew which MUST NOT be removed by mistake, asexplained in the text.

8-4 DRAINING LOWER UNIT

Position a suitable container under thelower unit, and then remove the FILL screwand the VENT screw.

CRITICAL WORDThe Phillips screw securing the shift fork

in place is located very dose to the ventscrew. If the wrong screw is removed,BAD NEWS, VERY BAD NEWS. The lowerunit will have to be disassembled in order toreturn the shift fork to its proper location.

Allow the gear lubricant to drain intothe container. As the lubricant drains,catch some with your fingers, from time-to-time, and rub it between your thumb andfinger to determine if any metal particlesare present. If metal is detected in thelubricant, the unit must be completely dis-assembled, inspected, and the damagedparts replaced.

Check the color of the lubricant as itdrains. A whitish or creamy color indicatesthe presence of water in the lubricant.Check the drain pan for signs of waterseparation from the lubricant. The presenceof any water in the gear lubricant is BADNEWS. The unit must be completely disas-sembled, inspected, the cause of the prob-lem determined, and then corrected.

Filling instructions are outlined at theend of each lower unit section.

8-5 LOWER UNIT SERVICE1.5 HP TO 4.0 HP ENGINES - NO SHIFT

DescriptionThis is a very simple direct drive unit

without any shift capabilities. Reverse isobtained by rotating the engine 1800 andholding that position while the boat is mov-ed sternward.

Propeller RemovalRemove the propeller according to the

procedures outlined in Section 8-3.

Draining the Lower UnitDrain the lower unit according to the

procedures outlined in Section 8-4.

GOOD WORDSIf water is discovered in the lower unit

and the propeller shaft seal is damaged and -requires replacement, the lower unit doesNOT have to be removed in order to accom-plish the work.

Lower unit with propeller in place prior to servicework.

The seal may be replaced by first remov-ing the two screws securing the cap in placeand then tapping on the cap with a soft-headed mallet to jar it loose. The cap isthen removed, the seal removed and replac-ed, and the cap installed and secured.

LOWER UNIT REMOVAL

ADVICEIf the only work to be performed is

service of the water pump, be extremelyCAREFUL to prevent the driveshaft frombeing pulled up and free of the pinion gearin the lower unit. NEVER carry the lowerunit by the driveshaft. If the shaft shouldbe released from the pinion, the lower unitMUST be disassembled to align the piniongear and driveshaft, then the driveshaftinstalled.

SERVICE NO SHIFT 8-9

1- Disconnect the spark plug wire fromthe plug. Remove the retaining bolts secur-ing the lower unit to the exhaust housing.CAREFULLY pull directly downward, toprevent damage to the water tube, andremove the lower unit.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

2- Remove the screws securing the wa-ter pump to the lower unit housing. It isvery possible corrosion will cause the screwheads to break-off when an attempt to re-move them is made. If this should happen,use a chisel and break-a-way the waterpump housing from the lower unit. EXER-CISE CARE not to damage the lower unithousing.

3- After the screws have been removed,slide the water pump, impeller, the impellerkey, and the lower water pump plate upwardand free of the dr iveshaf t,

If the only work to be performed isservice of the water pump, proceed directlyto Page 8-14, Water Pump Installation.

8-10 LOWER UNIT

LOWER UNIT DISASSEMBLING

4- Remove the gearcase head and thetwo screws. Pull on the propeller shaft ortap on the gear case head to separate thegearcase head from the lower unit housing.The driven gear is pressed onto the propellershaft. Therefore, the propeller shaft andgear are considered as a complete assembly.If either is damaged and requires replace-ment, the two are purchased as an assembly.

5- Pull upward on the driveshaft, and atthe same time, reach inside the lower unitand remove the pinion gear.

SPECIAL WORDSOn the Weedless type lower unit, a

thrust bearing is installed under the piniongear. This thrust bearing can only be re-moved by tapping it out in the followingmanner: Turn the lower unit so thepropeller shaft opening is facing downward.Now, gently rap the unit on a work bench orblock of wood. The thrust bearing and piniongear will be dislodged and fall free.

6- If the seal at the top of the lowerunit housing under the water pump is to bereplaced, remove the seal using any typeseal remover. The OMC tool number is377565. To remove the seal in the gearcasehead, work the seal free by using a punchand mallet from the back side. Remove the O-ring.



Clean all water pump parts with solvent,and then dry them with compressed air.Inspect the water pump cover and base forcracks and distortion, possibly caused fromoverheating. Inspect the face plate andwater pump insert for grooves and/or roughsurfaces. If possible, AL WAYS install acomplete new water pump while the lowerunit is disassembled. A new impeller willensure extended satisfactory service andgive "peace of mind" to the owner. If theold impeller must be returned to service,NEVER install it in reverse to the originaldirection of rotation. Installation in reversewill cause premature impeller failure.

Inspect the impeller side seal surfacesand the ends of the impeller blades forcracks, tears, and wear. Check for a glazedor melted appearance, caused from operat-ing without sufficient water. If any ques-tion exists, and as previously stated, installa new impeller if at all possible.

Clean all parts with solvent and drythem with compressed air. DISCARD all 0-rings and gaskets. Inspect and replace thedriveshaft if the splines are worn. Inspect

SERVICE NO SHIFT 8-1 I

Propeller shaft and gear removal from a low horse-power lower unit. All parts should be thoroughlycleaned and inspected.

the gearcase and exhaust housing for dam-age to the machined surfaces. Remove anynicks and refurbish the surfaces on a surfaceplate. Start with a No. 120 Emery paperand finish with No. 180.

Check the water intake screen and pas-sages. Inspect the drive gear, pinion gear,and thrust washers. Replace these items ifthey appear worn. If any of the surfaces are

Exploded drawing of the non-shifting lower unit, with major parts identified.

8-12 LOWER UNIT

PROPELLERExploded drawing of the "Weedless" lower unit gear case, with major parts identified.

nicked, chipped, or the edges rounded, theoperator may be performing the shiftoperation improperly. These items MUST bereplaced if they are damaged.

LOWER UNIT ASSEMBLING

1- Tap a NEW seal into place on top ofthe lower unit housing.

2- Tap a NEW seal into place in thegear case head. Install a NEW O-ring intothe groove in the gearcase.

3- Install the pinion gear into the recessin the lower unit housing. If the unit beingserviced is the "Weedless" type gearcase,install the thrust bearing with the bosses onthe bearing indexed between the two bossesin the gearcase. Hold the pinion gear inplace with one hand, and with the otherhand install the driveshaft down into thelower unit. Continue to hold the piniongear, and at the same time, rotate thedriveshaft slightly after it makes contactwith the pinion gear to allow the splines onthe shaft to index with the splines in thegear.

SPECIAL WORDS After the drives haft is installed, care

must be exercised NOT to allow the drive-shaft to slip out of position in the piniongear. This is especially important duringwater pump installation work. If the drive-shaft should come free, the lower unit mustbe disassembled in order to install the drive-shaft.

SERVICE r-JO SHIFT 8-13

4- Coat the propeller shaft and thegearcase O-ring with oil as an aid to instal-lation. Install the gearcase head over thepropeller shaft. Slide the propeller shaftthrough the lower unit with the driven gearteeth indexed with the teeth of the piniongear. It may be necessary to rotate thepropeller shaft slightly in order to index thedriven and pinion gear teeth. The teethMUST engage fully and properly or the gear-case head will be damaged when the attach-ing screws are installed. Coat the screwssecuring the head to the lower unit withsealer, and then install the screws. CARE-FULLY tap on the gear case head with a

8-14 LOWER UNIT

soft-headed mallet and tighten the screwsEVENLY and ALTERNATELY.

CRITICAL WORDSIf the screws are not tightened evenly,

or the driven gear and pinion gear teeth arenot fully and properly engaged, the gearcasehead will be thrown out of line just awhisker, and the ears through which thebol ts pass may snap off. BAD NEWS! Anew gearcase head would have to be pur-chased.

If the unit being serviced is the "Weed-less" type, two sets of matching marks onthe gear case head and the lower unit MUSTbe aligned when the head is installed.

If the unit being serviced is the "High-Thrust" type, the gearcase has a hole whichMUST face upward when the head is install-ed.

WATER PUMP INSTALLATION

5- Lay down a bead of sealer No. 1000onto the lower unit surface. Slide thewater pump plate down the driveshaft andonto the lower unit surface.

6- Insert the water pump impeller pininto the driveshaft hole.

7- Slide the water pump impeller downthe driveshaft and into place on top of thewater pump base plate with the pump pinindexed in the impeller. Lubricate theinside surface of the water pump withlightweight oil.

8- Lower the water pump housing downthe driveshaft and over the impeller. Ro-tate the driveshaft CLOCKWISE as the wa-ter pump housing is lowered to allow theimpeller blades to assume their natural andproper position inside the housing. Continueto rotate the driveshaft and work the waterpump housing downward until it is seated onthe lower unit upper housing surface.

9- ALWAYS rotate the driveshaftCLOCKWISE while the screws are tightenedto prevent damaging the impeller vanes. Ifthe impeller is not rotated, the housingcould damage or cut the end of the vanes asthe screws are brought up tight. The rota-tion allows them to spring back in a naturalposition. Place a NEW grommet into thewater pump housing for the water pickuptube. If a new water pump was installed,this seal will already be in place. Install aNEW O-ring on the top of the driveshaft.

LOWER UNIT INSTALLATION

10- Clean and shine the water pumptube with lightweight sandpaper, and thencoat it with oil as an aid to installation.Apply oil to the grommet in the water pumphousing as a further aid to installation. Thistube is very small in size and will bendeasily during installation if it has even alittle difficulty passing through the rubbergrommet in the water pump housing.

Bring the lower unit together to matewith the exhaust housing. Guide the watertube into the water pump housing grommet,and at the same time rotate the propellershaft CLOCKWISE. Rotating the propellershaft will also rotate the driveshaft andallow the splines on the driveshaft to indexwith the splines of the engine crankshaft.

SERVICE NO SHIFT 8-15

Continue to work the lower unit closer tothe exhaust housing until the mating sur-faces make contact. Coat the retainingscrews with sealer to prevent corrosion, andthen start them in place. Tighten theretaining screws EVENLY and AL TERNA TE-LY.

8-16 LOWER UNIT

FILLING THE LOWER UNIT

11- FiU the lower unit with lubricant.Insert the lubricant tube into the bottomopening, and then fill the unit until lubricantis visible at the vent hole. Install the ventplug. Remove the gear lubricant tube, andinstall the drain/fill plug.

12- After the lower plug has beeninstalled, remove the vent plug again andusing a squirt-type oil can, add lubricantthrough this vent hole. A squirt-type oil canmust be used to allow the trapped air in thelower unit to escape at the same time thefinal lubricant is added. Once the unit iscompletely full, install and tighten the ventplug.

PROPELLER INSTALLATION

FIRST, THESE GOOD WORDSThe propellers used on the outboards

covered in this section have a removableclutch ring and a clutch hub, and bushing.Under normal conditions, these items areNOT removed from the propeller. However,if they have been removed for any numberof reasons, they should be coated with OMCType "A" lubricant prior to installation. Thebushing is installed first, then the clutchhub, and finally the clutch ring.

13- Install the shear pin. Apply a lightcoating of anti-corrosive lubricant onto thepropeller shaft. Slide the propeller onto the shaft, then the washer, and finally the pro-peller nut, with the flange on the nut TO-WARDS the propeller. Tighten the nutsecurely. Install a cotter pin to prevent thenut from backing out. Slip the rubber capover the propeller nut.

14- Perform a functional check ofthe completed work by mounting theengine in a test tank, in a body ofwater, or with a flush attachmentconnected to the lower unit. If theflush attachment is used, NEVER operatethe engine above an idle speed, becausethe no-load condition on the propeller wouldallow the engine to RUNAWAY resulting inser ious damage or destruction of the engine.

Installation of the propeller on a low horsepowerengine lower unit.


Start the engine and observe the tattle-tale flow of water from idle relief in theexhaust housing. The water pump installa-tion work is verified. If a "Flushette" isconnected to the lower unit, VERY LITTLEwater will be visible from the idle relief port.

8-6 LOWER UNIT SERVICE MANUAL SHIFT - 5 HP TO 25 HP ENGINES


detailed procedures outlined in Section 8-3.

Draining Lower UnitDrain the lower unit according to the


GOOD WORDSBefore the lower unit can be removed,

the type of shift disconnect must be deter-mined. The different shift type disconnectsare lettered A thru E for simplicity. Thetype used on the engine being serviced mayquickly be identified from the Appendix.The model year and horsepower must beknown in order to use the Appendix.

MANUAL SHIFT 5 HP TO 25 HP 8-'17

Type A - No Shift UnitThis type is used on the direct drive

engines, without a reverse gear. The engineis rotated 1800 with the steering lever tomove the boat sternward. Because a shiftrod is not used, naturally there is no re-quirement to disconnect this item. Thenecessary procedure to remove the lowerunit is to simply remove the bolts attachingthe unit to the exhaust housing, and then"drop" the lower unit.

Type B - Pin In Upper DriveshaftThis type is used in conjunction with the

Type A, C, and E. "Pin in the upper drive-shaft", means that the pin holds and pushesseal and spring assembly against the power-head and thus provides a bottom seal for thepowerhead. After the lower unit attachingbolts have been removed, the flywheel mustbe rotated (to rotate the driveshaf t) untilthe pin is aligned with two slots in the upperportion of the exhaust housing. The lowerhousing can then be separated from theexhaust housing. If an attempt is made toforce the lower unit from the exhaust hous-ing without aligning the driveshaft pin, asjust described, the pin may be broken andother items damaged.

Type C - Shift Disconnect Under Power headRemove the power head. The shift rod is

attached to the shift lever underneath thepower head. Disconnect the shift rod from

Location of the locking pin in the shift shaft. Theparts above the pin are contained in the exhaust hous-ing.

8-18 LOWER UNIT

BELLCRANK


the shift lever. Remove the attaching bolts,and then separate the lower unit from theexhaust housing.

Type D - Window Removal to Gain Access 1- Remove the metal plate from the

port side of the engine. Access to the shiftcoupler is gained through the opening.

2- Disconnect the shift rod from theexhaust housing by removing the bottombolt from the shift coupler.

Type E - Shift Disconnect CouplerLoosen the attaching screws securing the

lower unit to the power head, Allow thelower unit to drop approximately one inch,and then remove the bottom bolt in the shift

Window removed from a lower unit to gain access tothe shift connector, as explained in the text. The detaildrpwing, upper left, illustrates the relationship of thebolt to the shift rod.

Removing the bolt through the shift connector afterthe lower unit has been separatec [rott: the exhausthousing enough to allow access for the socket wrench.

coupler. The lower unit may then be com-pletely separated from the exhaust housing.

GOOD WORDSIn MOST cases, if any unit being serviced

has the 6-inch extension, it is NOT neces-sary to remove the extension in order to"drop" the lower unit. However, as in mostthings in life, there are rare exceptions andhere is one. If the lower unit is separatedfrom the extension and the drives haft con-nection is not accessible, then the extensionwill have to be removed to gain access tothe coupler.

LOWER UNIT REMOVAL

1- After the shift rod has been discon-nected, as described in the previous para-graphs, remove the bolts securing the lowerunit to the housing. Some units may have anadditional bolt on each side and one at therear of the engine. Work the lower unitloose from the exhaust housing. It is notuncommon for the water tube to be stuck inthe water pump making separation of thelower unit from the exhaust housing diffi-cul t. However, with patience and persist-ence, the tube will come free of the pumpand the lower unit separated from the ex-haust housing.

MORE GOOD WORDS Position the lower unit in a vertical

position on the edge of the work benchresting on the cavitation plate. Secure thelower unit in this position with a C-clamp.The lower unit will then be held firmly in afavorable position for further service work.An alternate method is to cut a groove in ashort piece of 211 x 6" wood to accommodatethe lower unit with the cavitation plateresting on top of the wood. Clamp the woodin a vise and service work may then beperformed with the lower unit erect On itsnormal position), or inverted (upside down).In both positions, the cavitation plate is thesupporting surface.

MANUAL SHIFT 5 HP TO 25 HP 8-19

2- Remove the O-ring from the top ofthe driveshaft. Some units may have a pininstalled in this location, instead of an 0-ring. In this case, remove the pin from thedr iveshaf t, The washer, springs, and otherparts will have remained in the exhausthousing.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

3- Remove the screws securing thewater pump to the lower unit housing. It isvery possible corrosion will cause the screwheads to break-off when an attemept to re-move them is made. If this should happen,use a chisel and breakaway the water pumphousing from the lower unit. EXERCISECARE not to damage the lower unit housing.

4- After the screws have been removed,slide the water pump, impeller, the impellerkey, and the lower water pump plate upwardand free of the driveshaft.

8-20 LOWER UNIT

ADVICEIf the only work to be performed is

service of the water pump, be extremelyCAREFUL to prevent the driveshaft frombeing pulled up and free of the pinion gearin the lower unit. NEVER carry the lowerunit by the driveshaft. If the shaft shouldbe released from the pinion, the lower unitMUST be disassembled to align the piniongear and the driveshaft, then the driveshaftinstalled. To install the water pump, pro-ceed directly to Page 8-31, Water PumpInstallation


GOOD WORDSOne of two type of driveshafts may be

installed in the lower units covered in thissection. One has a spline on the lower endof the shaft to index with the splines in thepinion gear. The other type drlveshaft hasa key and keyway in the lower end of thedriveshaft. The key indexes with a match-ing keyway in the pinion gear.

5- CAREFULLY pull upward on thedr iveshaf t, If the driveshaft comes freeeasily, the unit is the type with the splineson the end of the shaft. If the shaft will notcome free, it is the type with the key andkeyway. Therefore, the driveshaft will beremoved later when the lower unit isdisassembled. If the driveshaft comes free,remove it at this time.

6- Turn the lower unit upside down andagain clamp it in the vise or slide it into thewooden block, if one is used. Carefull yexamine the lower portion of the unit. Thecap is considered that part below the split

with the skeg attached. Two types of lowerunit caps are installed on engines covered int his section. One has a Phillips screwinstalled, and the other does not. If thePhillips screw is installed, remove thescrew.

7- Remove the attaching screws aroundthe cap. These screws may be slotted-typeor Phillips screws. CAREFULLY tap thecap to jar it loose, and then separate it fromthe lower unit housing. If the cap did nothave a Phillips screw on the outside, observethe two slots inside the cap.

TAKE TIMEBefore proceeding with the disassembly

work, take time to study the arrangement ofparts in the lower unit. You may elect tofollow the practice of many professionalmechanics and take a polaroid picture of theunit as an aid during the assembly work.Several engineering and production changes

Lower W1it with the cap removed exposing internalparts before disassembling.

have been made to the lower unit over theyears. Therefore, the positioning of thegears, shims, bearings, and other parts mayvary slightly from one unit to the next.

To show each and every arrangementwith a picture in this manual would not bepractical. Even if it were done, the abilityto associate the unit being serviced with theillustration would be almost impossible.Therefore, take time to make notes, scrib-ble out a sketch, or take a couple photo-graphs. . .

8- Lift the shift lever out of the cradle,and then remove the cradle from the shiftdog. Raise the propeller shaft and at thesame time tap with a soft-headed mallet onthe bottom side to jar it loose, then removethe shaft assembly from the lower unit. Theforward and reverse gear including the bear-ings will all come out wi th the propellershaft. The forward gear is the gear at theopposite end of the shaft from the orooeller ,,. ,

GOOD WORDSNotice the bearing split on the back side

of the forward gear. Also observe the pin inthe housing and a matching slot in thebearing. The pin must index in the slotduring installation. With the reverse gear,some' bearing heads have a hole and amatching pin installed in the housing indexesin this hole. Some other reverse gears havea tab protruding from the bearing head.


This tab indexes in a slot in the housingduring installation. By taking note at thistime of the particular type of installationfor the unit being serviced, the task ofinstallation will progress more smoothly. Ifthe installation work is not performedproperly, the lower unit housing will quicklybe damaged requiring the purchase of a new unit.

9- If the unit being serviced is the typewith a keyway in the driveshaft, removethe pinion gear from the shaft, then the key,and snap ring, before attempting to removethe driveshaft shaft.

10- Slide the forward gear, babbitt bear-ing, and washer free of the propeller shaft.Remove the clutch dog. Remove thereverse gearcase head, reverse gear, andwasher from the shaft.

11- Turn the lower unit housing rightside up and again clamp it in the vise.Remove the bearing carrier and bearingassembly. This is accomplished by using abearing carrier puller, as shown. An alter-nate method is to use two screwdrivers toremove the carrier from the lower unit.Sometimes the bearing carrier is difficult toremove. One effective method to release a

8-22 LOWER UNIT

Bearing carrier prior to removal. The two screwsshown are used to align the carrier with the gasketduring installation.

stubborn bearing carrier is to heat the lowerunit housing while attempting to remove thecarrier. If this method is employed,TAKE CARE not to overheat the lower unit.Excessive heat may damage internal parts.Remove the gasket from underneath thebearing carrier housing.

12- Clean the upper part of the shift rod asan aid to pulling it through the bushing andO-ring. Pull the shift rod from the lowerunit housing. The shift rod passes throughan O-ring and bushing in the lower unithousing. These two items prevent waterfrom entering the lower unit. A specialtapered punch is required to remove thebushing from the lower unit housing. Obtainthe special punch, and then remove thebushing, and the O-ring.

Using a slide hammer to "pull" the bearing carrierfrom the upper portion of the lower unit.


Clean all water pump parts with solvent,and then dry them with compressed air.Inspect the water pump cover and base forcracks and distortion, possibly caused fromoverheating. Inspect the face plate andwater pump insert for grooves and/or roughsurfaces. If possible, ALWAYS install acomplete new water pump while the lowerunit is disassembled. A new impeller willensure extended satisfactory service andgive "peace of mind" to the owner. If theold impeller must be returned to service,NEVER install it in reverse to the originaldirection of rotation. Installation in reversewill cause premature impeller failure.

Worn clutch dog ears. This clutch dog must bereplaced.


Clean all parts with solvent and drythem with compressed air. DISCARD all 0-rings and gaskets. Inspect and replace thedriveshaft if the splines are worn. Inspectthe gearcase and exhaust housing for dam-age to the machined surfaces. Remove anynicks and refurbish the surfaces on a surface plate. Start with a No. 120 Emery paperand finish with No. 180.

Check the water intake screen and pas-sages by removing the bypass cover, if oneis used. Inspect the clutch dog, drive gears,pinion gear, and thrust washers. Replacethese items if they appear worn. If the

Grommet installed about halfway up the exhausthousing where the upper and lower water tubes meet.Deposits of foreign material have a habit of forming inthis area and restricting the flOW of water. Therefore,this grommet should be removed and the area cleaned.


A new Shift cradle (right) compared with one badlywom and unfit for service (left).

Bearing head with a new seal and a-ring installed.

Badly worn propeller Shaft. This damage may havestarted from an entangled fish line that was not remov-ed, then aggravated when water entered the lower unit.

Distorted tapered bearing unfit for further service.

8-24 LOWER UNIT

Badly worn water pump impeller. The impellershould be inspected thoroughly. The best practice is toreplace the impeller each time the lower unit is disas-sembled for service.

clutch dog and drive gear arrangement sur-faces are nicked, chipped, or the edgesrounded, the operator may be performingthe shift operation improperly or the con-trols may not be adjusted correctly. Theseitems MUST be replaced if they are dam-aged.

Inspect the dog ears on the inside of theforward and reverse gears. The gears mustbe replaced if they are damaged.

Check the cradle that rides on the insidediameter of the clutch dog. The sides of thecradle must be in good condition, free ofany damage or signs of wear. If damage orwear has occurred, the cradle must be re-placed.

Check the shift lever and the two prongsthat fit inside the cradle. Check to be surethe prongs are not worn or rounded. Dam-age or wear to the prongs indicates thelever must be replaced.

Caged ball bearing set destroyed due to lack oflubrication, vibration, corrosion, metal particles, or allof the above.

Badly worn pinion gear from a lower unit. The teethof all gears must be carefully inspected for wear anddamage.

READ AND BELIEVEThe three numbered illustrations in the

right column on this page clearly show alower unit that has been assembledINCORRECTL Y.

lliustration No.1 Insepct very closely,the bushing bearing on the forward gear forany kind of indication the pin was missedwhen the housing was installed during thelast repair work. Check the reversegearcase head and if there is any indicationof a pin mark, then check the housing forevidence the pin has been driven into thehousing. Some forward bearing carries havea lip that indexes with a slot in the lowerunit housing. Check for evidence the lip didnot index properly.

Babbitt bearing unfit for further service. This typebearing must not show any signs of wear.

Standard water pump (left) and a new type (right).The newer pump is only used with an updated lowerunit.

Illustration No.2 If the pin has beendriven down into the lower unit housing, itmust be drilled out as described in the nextparagrph. The accompanying illustrationcompares a proper and an improper installa-tion.

Illustration No.3 If the pin must bedrilled, EXERCISE CARE not to drill todeeply. If a hole is drilled deeper thannecessary, then insert a couple drops ofmelted solder into the hole, and set the newpin in place with the LARGE portion of thepin flush with the housing. If the pin is notflush, remove it, drop more soldered intothe hole and make another test. Continueto drop solder into the hole and test untilthe pin is flush with the housing when it isinstalled. If more soldered is inserted intothe hole than necessary, the pin may betapped into the solder while it is still warmand the pin made flush with the housing.

A rusted and corroded gear. Water was allowed toenter the lot.ver unit through a bad seal and cause thisdamage to the gear and other expensive parts.


Indent mark on a forward gear bearing indicatingthe unit was not assembled properly. The pin in thehousing caused this damage.

Pin pressed into the housing because of improperinstallation. This pin must be drilled out before theunit can be returned to service.

Drilling the pin out of the housing. A new pin mustbe installed and the unit assembled properly.

8-26 LOWER UNIT

Exploded drawing of a lower unit with a window for access to the shift connector.


Exploded drawing of a lower unit requiring the powerhead to be removed to gain access to the shift disconnect.

8-28 LOWER UNIT

ASSEMBLING

1- Place the lower unit on the workbench with the water pump recess facingupward. Install a NEW a-ring into the shiftcavity. Work the bushing into place on topof the O-ring with a punch and mallet.Inject just a couple drops of oil into thebushing and O-ring as an assist during instal-lation of the shift rod.

2- Turn the exhaust housing upsidedown. If the unit being serviced uses aWoodruff key, to secure the pinion gear tothe driveshaft, install the driveshaft throughthe housing. Install the snapringinto the groovenear the end of the driveshaft, and then theWoodruff key, and finally the the piniongear onto the driveshaft. Lower the assembleddrives haft into place in the lower unithousing. If the drives haft is the splined-type, lower the pinion gear into place at this time. The driveshaft will be installed later.

Assembling the Propetler Shaft 3- Slide the clutch dog onto the propel-

ler shaft splines. Apply a light coating oflubricant to the washer and then insert itinto the center of the forward gear. Slidethe forward gear onto the end of the propel-ler shaft. Slide the forward gear bearingonto the shaft and into the forward gear.

CD4- Apply a light coating of lubricant to

the washer, and then insert it into thecenter of the reverse gear. Slide the re-verse gear onto the propeller shaft from thepropeller end. Check to be sure a new 0-ring and bearing seal has been installed intothe gear case head, and then install thegear case head assembly onto the propellershaft.

CRITICAL WORDSLook into the front part of the lower

unit housing. Notice the pin protruding upfrom the housing. Now, observe the slot inthe forward gear bearing. When thepropeller shaft assembly is installed into thelower unit, this pin MUST index into the hole

Locating pins in the lower unit housing. A hole inthe forward gear bearing must index with the right pinand the hole in the gearcase head bearing with the leftpin when the bearings are installed.

O-RING

An assembled bearing head without the index hole.This bearing has a protrusion which indexes with acutout in the lower unit housing.

in the forward gear bearing. Also notice theprotrusion on the end of gearcase head.This protrusion MUST index with the slot inthe housing when the propeller shaftassembly is installed. Some gearcase unitsmay have a hole. A pin imbedded in thelower unit housing indexes with the holeduring installation.

5- Check to be sure the piruon gear isproperly located. Check to be sure the shiftrod is clean and smooth (free of any burrs orcorrosion). Coat the shift rod and the 0-ring with oil as an aid to installation. Slidethe shift rod down through the O-ring andbushing into the gear case.

6- Slide the propeller shaft assembly in-to the lower unit housing. Check to be surethe slot in the forward gear bearing indexeswith the pin in the lower unit, and theprotrusion on the end of the gear case headindexes in the slot in the housing. On somemodels, a pin in the lower unit housingMUST index with a hole in the gearcasehead.

7- Lubricate the cradle, and then slip itinto the dutch dog groove.

S- Bring the shift lever down over thecradle and snap the fingers of the lever into

MANUAL SHIFT 5 HP TP 25 HP 8-29

the cradle. Check to be sure the dutch dogis in the NEUTRAL position. Push or pull onthe shift rod to move it up or down until thedutch dog is in the center between theforward and reverse gears. If the lever usesthe pin-type holding mechanism, install thepin into the lever.

9- Lay down a bead of No. 1000 Sealerinto the groove of the cap in preparation toinstalling the seal.

8-30 LOWER UNIT

Two shift lever screws. The right screw has beenground to assist installation, as explained in the text.

10- Place a NEW seal in the lower capand hold the seal in the groove with sealer.Apply a small amount of silicone sealer oneach side of the bearing gear case head.This sealer will form a complete seal whenthe lower unit cap is installed.

GOOD WORDIf time is taken to grind the end of the

screw to a SHORT point, it will make thetask of installation much easier. If the capand shift lever are not aligned exactly, thescrew will "seek" and make the alignment asit passes through. However, do not make along point or the screw will not have enoughsupport and would bend during operation ofthe shift lever.

11- Position the lower unit cap over thegear assembly onto the lower unit housing.If the unit being serviced uses a shift leverpin, work the cap until the pin indexes intothe recess of the cap.

12- Apply a drop of sealer into the open-ing for each cap retaining screw to ensure acomplete seal between the cap and thelower unit housing. Install the screws secur-ing the cap to the lower unit housing.Tighten the screws ALTERNATELY andEVENLY.

®

®

13- If the screw-type cap is used, withthe Phillips screw in the side of the cap, usea flashlight and align the hole in the capwith the hole in the shift lever. Install thetapered Phillips screw into the housing andthrough the lever.

14- Apply a drop of sealer to thethreads, and then tighten the screwsecurely.

15- Turn the lower unit rightside up.Install a NEW gasket onto the upper surfaceof the lower unit.


16- Install the bearing housing and bear-ing assembly by sliding a couple boltsthrough the housing to align the base gasket.

WATER PUMP INSTALLA TION

17- Apply a coating of sealer to theupper surface of the lower unit. Install thewater pump base plate.

8-32 LOWER UNIT

18- If the unit being serviced, uses thesplined-type driveshaft, slide the driveshaftinto the lower unit, and then rotate theshaft very slowly. When the splines of thedriveshaft index with the pinion gear, theshaft will drop slightly. Install the waterpump pin or key.

19- Slide the water pump down thedriveshaft and into place on top of thewater pump base plate with the pump pin orkey indexed in the impeller. Lubricate theinside surface of the water pump with light-weight oil.

20- Lower the water pump housing downthe driveshaft and over the impeller. Ro-tate the driveshaft CLOCKWISE as the wa-ter pump housing is lowered to allow theimpeller blades to assume their natural andproper position inside the housing. Continueto rotate the drives haft and work the water pump housing downward until it is seated onthe lower unit upper housing.

21- ALWAYS rotate the driveshaftCLOCKWISE while the screws are tightenedto prevent damaging the impeller vanes. Ifthe impeller is not rotated, the housingcould damage or cut the end of the vanes asthe screws are brought up tight. The rota-tion allows them to spring back in a natural position.

22- Place a NEW grommet into the wat-er pump housing for the water pickup. If anew water pump was installed, this seal willalready be in place. Install a NEW O-ring onthe top of the drives haft.

O-RING

23- If the lower unit being serviced usesa pin on the top of the driveshaft, install thepin at this time. Shift the lower unit intoFORWARD gear and at the same time ro-tate the propeller shaft CLOCKWISE. Thelower unit assembling is now complete andready to mate with the exhaust housing.

LOWER UNIT lNSTALLA TION

GOOD WORDSIf the unit being serviced uses the shift

rod coupler arrangement either through thewindow or before the lower unit and exhausthousings are fully mated, these words areextremely critical. Connecting the shift rodwith the coupler is not an easy task but canbe accomplished as follows: First, noticethe cutout area on the end of the shift rod.This area permits the bolt to pass throughthe coupler, past the shift rod, and into theother side of the coupler. It is this bolt thatholds the shift rod in the coupler. Now, inorder for the bolt to be properly installed,the cutout area on the shift rod MUST bealigned in such a manner to allow the bolt tobe properly installed. Therefore, as thelower unit is mated with the exhaust hous-ing, exercise patience as the two units cometogether, to enable the bolt to be installedat the proper time. If the rod is allowed to


Shift rod and the screw through the connector. Thisillustration clearly shows a proper installation.

move too far into the coupler before thebolt is installed, it may be possible to forcethe bolt into place, past the shift rod. Thethreads on the bolt will be stripped, and theshift rod will eventually come out of thecoupler.

24- Install the coupler onto the lowerunit shift rod, with the NO THREAD sectionfacing towards the window. With the couplerin this position, the bolt may be insertedthrough the coupler and "catch" the threadson the far side. Install the coupler bolt inthe manner described in the previous para-graph.

Shift rod connector with the clear hole through theconnector and shift roa, indicating the rod is properlylocated.

8-34 LOWER UNIT

SPECIAL WORDSIf the unit being serviced uses the shift

rod coupler arrangement, then the couplermust be connected to the shift rod BEFOREthe lower unit is fully mated with the ex-haust housing, as described in the previousstep and the "Good Words".

If the unit being serviced uses the drive-shaft with the pin, extreme care must beexercised as the shaft is guided into theexhaust housing to allow the pin to indexwith the groove in the housing.

If the unit being serviced uses the boltthrough the window arrangement, insert thebolt into the connector. TAKE TIME to readand understand the "Good Words" just beforeStep 24-, before making this connection.After the bolt is in place, install and securethe window with the attaching hardware.

If the unit being serviced has the shiftconnector requiring the powerhead to beremoved, install the shift rod into the shiftlinkage of the shift handle. Install thepower head.

25- Check to be sure the water pickuptube is clean, smooth, and free of anycorrosion. Coat the water pickup tube andgrommet with lubricant as an aid to instal-lation. Guide the lower unit up into theexhaust housing with the water tube slidinginto the rubber grommet of the water pump.Continue to work the lower unit towards theexhaust housing, and at the same time ro-tate the propeller shaft as an aid to indexingthe driveshaft splines with the crankshaft.Start the bolts securing the lower unit tothe exhaust housings together. Tighten thebolts EVENLY and ALTERNATELY.

Connecting the shift rod before the lower unit ismated fully to the exhaust housing.

Driveshaft with the pin installed and. ready forinstallation into the exhaust housing. As the shaft israised, it must be rotated slowly to allow the pin topass a slot in the housing. After the pin is past the slot,it must be rotated again to allow the splines to indexwith the splines in the crankshaft.

Window, ready to be installed after the shift rod hasbeen properly connected.

Shift rod connected on a lower unit requiring thepowerhead to be removed to gain access to the con-nection.

26- Fill the lower unit with lubricant.Insert the lubricant tube into the bottomopening, and then fill the unit until lubricantis visible at the vent hole. Install the ventplug. Remove the gear lubricant tube, and install the drain/fill plug.

27- After the lower plug has been instal-led, remove the vent plug again and using asquirt-type oil can, add lubricant throughthis vent hole. A squirt-type oil can mustbe used to allow the trapped air in the lowerunit to escape at the same time the finallubricant is added. Once the unit is com-pletely full, install and tighten the ventplug.


A FEW GOOD WORDSThe propeller washer, if used, and drive

pin play an extremely important role. Whenshifting gears during normal operation, or ifthe propeller should hit an underwater ob-stacle, the propeller is subjected to conside-rable shock. A washer is installed betweenthe propeller and drive pin. This washerMUST always be in place for proper opera-tion. If the hub should slip, the propellerwill move back towards the propeller nutand lock against the drive pin. The washeris designed to stop propeller movement sothe drive pin can be easily removed forservice. Now, on with the installation.

28- Install the propeller. Coat the pro-peller shaft with an anti-corrosion grease.Install the propeller with the drive pin holesaligned. Install the washer and drive pin.Slide the propeller cap into place and secureit with the cotter pin.

8-36 LOWERUNIT

If the unit being serviced has a propellerusing the rear-type shear pin arrangement:Install the shear pin and then coat thepropeller shaft with anti-corrosion grease.Install the propeller, propeller nut, and thenthe cotter pin.

29- Final adjustment for remote controlunits: Shift the lower unit into NEUTRALgear. At the shift box, move the shift leverto the NEUTRAL position. If the pin on theend of the shift cable, does not align withthe shift handle, move the adjusting knobuntil the pin aligns and will move into theshift handle. With the shift cable removed,move the lower unit into FORWARD gearand at the same time rotate the propellerCLOCKWISE to ensure the gears are fullyindexed. At the control box, move the shiftlever into the FORWARD position. Againcheck to be sure the pin on the end of theshift cable aligns with the hole in the shiftlever. Adjust the knob on the shift cableuntil the pin does align with the hole in theshift lever.

Perform a functional check of the com-pleted work by mounting the engine in a testtank, in a body of water, or with a flushattachment connected to the lower unit. Ifthe flush attachment is used, NEVER oper-ate the engine above an idle speed, becausethe no-load condition on the propeller wouldallow the engine to RUNA WAY resulting in

Location of the shear pin through the propeller shaftjust ahead of the propeller.

in serious damage or destruction of theengine.

CAUTION: Water must circulate throughthe lower unit to the engine any time the en-gine is run to prevent damage to the waterpump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage the water pump.

Start the engine and observe the tattle-tale flow of water from idle relief in theexhaust housing. The water pump installa-tion work is verified. If a "Flushette" isconnected to the lower unit, VERY LITTLEwater will be visible from the idle reliefport. Shift the engine into the three gearsand check for smoothness of operation andsatisfactory performance.

8-7 LOWER UNIT SERVICEMANUAL SHIFT -- 28 HP TO 40 HP



Draining Lower UnitDrain the lower unit according to the


GOOD WORDSOnly one type of shift mechanism and

removal procedures are used on the enginescovered in this section. The mechanism ;installed is referred to as Type D in theAppendix. Access to the shift disconnect isthrough a window on the starboard side of the engine.

LOWER UNIT REMOVAL

Type D - Window Removal to Gain Access 1- Remove the metal plate from the

port side of the engine. Access to the shiftcoupler is gained through the opening.Disconnect the shift rod from the exhausthousing by removing the bottom bolt fromthe shift coupler.

GOOD WORDSIn MOST cases, if any unit being serviced

has the 6-inch extension, it is NOT neces-sary to remove the extension in order to"drop" the lower unit.

2- Remove the rear exhaust housingcover installed on some 35 hp models and onall 40 hp models. This cover MUST beremoved to gain access to one of the boltssecuring the lower unit to the exhaust hous-ing. Remove the bolts securing the lowerunit to the housing. Some units may have anadditional bolt on each side and one at therear of the engine. Work the lower unitloose from the exhaust housing. It is notuncommon for the water tube/s to be stuckin the water pump making separation of thelower unit from the exhaust housing diffi-cult. However, with patience and persist-ence, the tube/s will come free of the pumpand the lower unit separated from the ex-haust housing.

MORE GOOD WORDSPosition the lower unit in a vertical

position on the edge of the work bench

MANUAL SHIFT 28 HP TO 40 HP ~37

resting on the cavitation plate. Secure thelower unit in this position with a C-clamp.The lower unit will then be held firmly in afavorable position for further service work.An alternate method is to cut a groove in ashort piece of 2" x 6" wood to accommodatethe lower unit with the cavitation plateresting on top of the wood. Clamp the woodin a vise and service work may then be

A piece of 2" x 6" wood with a cutout to accept thelower unit housing. The piece of wood is clamped in Q

vise and the lower unit placed in position with thecavitation plate resting on the wood. The lower unit isthen reedy for service work.

8-38 LOWER UNIT

performed with the lower unit erect (in itsnormal position), or inverted (upside down).In both positions, the cavitation plate is thesupporting surface.

3- Remove and DISCARD the O-ringfrom the top of the drives haft.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

AUTHOR'S APOLOGYThe photographs taken for this section

involved a water pump from a electric shiftlower unit. However, the pump and theservice procedures are identical for themanual shift. Therefore, disregard anywiring shown in the photographs.

4- Remove the O-ring from the top ofthe water pump. Remove the screwssecuring the water pump to the lower unit housing. It is very possible corrosion willcause the screw heads to break-off when an attempt to remove them is made. If thisshould happen, use a chisel and breakawaythe water pump housing from the lower unit.EXERCISE CARE not to damage the lowerunit housing.

5- After the screws have been removed,slide the water pump, impeller, the impeller.key, and the lower water pump plate upwardand free of the driveshaft.

GOOD NEWSIf the only work to be performed is

service of the water pump, disregard thefollowing steps, and proceed directly to theWater Pump Assembling portion of this sec-tion on Page 8-48.


6- CAREFULLY pull upward on thedriveshaft and remove it from the lowerunit.

7- Turn the lower unit upside down andagain clamp it in the vise or slide it into the wooden block, if one is used. Carefullyexamine the lower portion of the unit. Thecap is considered that part below the split

with the skeg attached. Remove the Phil-lips screw from the starboard side of thelower housing. This screw passes throughthe shift yoke and threads into the otherside of the housing.

S- Remove the attaching screws aroundthe cap. These screws may be slotted-typeor Phillips screws. CAREFULLY tap thecap to jar it loose, and then separate it fromthe lower unit housing. If the cap did nothave a Phillips screw on the outside, observethe two slots inside the cap.

TAKE TIMEBefore proceeding with the disassembly

work, take time to study the arrangement ofparts in the lower unit. You may elect tofollow the practice of many professionalmechanics and take a polaroid picture of theunit as an aid during the assembly work.Several engineering and production changeshave been made to the lower unit over the


Lower unit with the cap removed exposing internalparts. Take time to make a sketch or take Q

photograph showing the arrangement of parts as enassist during the installation work.

years. Therefore, the positioning of thegears, shims, bearings, and other parts mayvary slightly from one unit to the next.

To show each and every arrangementwith a picture in this manual would not bepractical. Even if it were done, the abilityto associate the unit being serviced with theillustration would be almost impossible.Therefore, take time to make notes, scrib-ble out a sketch, or take a couple photo-graphs.

9- Lift the shift lever out of the cradle,and then remove the cradle from the shiftdog. Raise the propeller shaft and at thesame time tap with a soft-headed mallet onthe bottom side to jar it loose, then removethe shaft assembly from the lower unit. Theforward and reverse gear including the bear-ings will all come out with the propellershaft. The forward gear is the gear at theopposite end of the shaft from the propeller.

GOOD WORDSNotice that the forward gear bearing is a

tapered bearing with a race and that thetaper faces outward, AWA Y from the gear.

8-40 LOWER UNIT

Arrangement of parts after the propeller shaft hasbeen removed.

Also observe the seal retainer on the propel-ler end of the propeller shaft. Now, noticethe matching pin in the lower unit housing.During the installation work, the retainerMUST be installed with the pin indexed inthe hole. Take note of the snap ring instal-led between the thrust washer and the re-verse gear bearing. One more item ofparticular interest. Notice the two sides ofthe thrust washer. One side is as a normalwasher, but the other side is a babbitt. Thebabbitt side MUST face toward the reversegear during installation. The washer alsohas two dog ears, one facing upward and theother downward.

By taking note at this time of theseitems and exactly how they are installed,the task of assembling and installation willprogress more smoothly.

10- Remove the attaching screws, andthen the U-shaped bracket from the top ofthe pinion gear

11- Reach into the lower housing andremove the pinion gear.

12- Slide the tapered bearing, forwardgear, washer, and clutch dog off the propel-ler shaft.

13- Remove the seal retainer, reversebearing, snap ring, washer, reverse gear andbearing, washer from the propeller end ofthe shaft.

14- Turn the lower unit housing rightside up and again clamp it in the vise.

Using a slide hammer to remove the seals or bear-ings from underneath the vrater pump housinr;r.

Remove the upper seal using a seal puller.An alternate method, if the puller is notavailable, is to use two screwdrivers andwork the seal out of the housing. TAKECARE not to damage the seal recess as theseal is being removed. A babbitt bearing isinstalled under the seal. Late model unitsmay have caged neddle bearings installed.Normally, it is NOT necessary to removethis bearing. However, check the bearingsurface with a finger and if any roughness isfelt, the bearing MUST be replaced.

15- Clean the upper portion of the shiftrod as an aid to pulling it through thebushing and O-ring. Pull the shift rod fromthe lower unit housing.

16- The shift rod passes through an 0-ring and bushing in the lower unit housing. These two items prevent water fromentering the lower unit. A special tapered

Caged ball bearing set installed on some newermodel lower units instead of the babbitt bearing.


punch is required to remove the bushingfrom the lower unit housing. Obtain thespecial punch, and then remove the bushing,and the O-ring.


Clean all water pump parts with solvent,and then dry them with compressed air.Inspect the water pump cover and base forcracks and distortion, possibly caused fromoverheating. Inspect the face plate andwater pump insert for grooves and/or roughsurfaces. If possible, ALWAYS install acomplete new water pump while the lowerunit is disassembled. A new impeller willensure extended satisfactory service andgive "peace of mind" to the owner. If theold impeller must be returned to service,NEVER install it in reverse to the originaldirection of rotation. Installation in reversewill cause premature impeller failure.

8-42 LOWER UNIT

Eabbitt bearing unfit for further service. This typebearing must not show any signs of wear.


Clean all parts with solvent and drythem with compressed air. DISCARD all 0-rings and gaskets. Inspect and replace thedriveshaft if the splines are worn. Inspectthe gearcase and exhaust housing for dam-age 1'0 the machined surfaces. Remove anynicks and refurbish the surfaces on a surfaceplate. Start with a. No. 120 Emery paperand finish with No. 180.

Caged ball bearing set destroyed due to lack oflubrication, vibration, corrosion, metal particles, or allof the above.

View of a badly corroded lower unit. Water enteredand was allowed to remain over an extended period oftime causing extensive damage.

Badly worn pinion gear. The teeth of all gears mustbe coreiuu» inspected for wear and damage.

A rusted and corroded gear. Water was allowed toenter the lower unit through a bad seal and cause thisdamage to the gear and other expensive parts.

A new shift cradle (right) compared with one badlyworn and unfit for service (left).

Check the water intake screen and pas-sages by removing the bypass cover, if oneis used. Inspect the dutch dog, drive gears,pinion gear, and thrust washers. Replacethese items if they appear worn. If thedutch dog and drive gear arrangement sur-faces are nicked, chipped, or the edgesrounded, the operator may be performingthe shift operation improperly or the con-trols may not be adjusted correctly. Theseitems MUST be replaced if they are dam-aged.

Inspect the dog ears on the inside of theforward and reverse gears. The gears mustbe replaced if they are damaged.

Check the cradle that rides on the insidediam eter of the dutch dog. The sides of the

The web area indicated should be inspected careful-ly for the slightest sign of a hairline crack. Thesmallest evidence of a crack is cause to replace thehousing because exhaust gases will find their way intothe water pump area when the engine is operating andthe boat planing. These exhaust gases will cause theengine to run hot.


Distorted tapered bearing unfit for further service.

cradle must be in good condition, free ofany damage or signs of wear. If damage orwear has occurred, the cradle must be re-placed.

Check the shift lever and the two prongsthat fit inside the cradle. Check to be surethe prongs are not worn or rounded. Dam-age or wear to the prongs indicates thelever must be replaced.

Using a punch to remove the seal from the bearingretainer.

Installing a seal into the bearing retainer. Noticethe O-ring has been installed.

8-44 LOWERUNIT

Exploded drawing of a typical manual shift lower unit installed on 35 hp and 40 hp engines. Two propeller shafts areshown. The second shaft with the two balls and spring may be installed as a conversion. This new type shaftarranqment holds the shift dog more securely in all gear positions. Conversion parts are available as separate items.


~ HUU~INuExploded drawing of a typical manual shift lower unit installed on late mode 40 hp engines. This lower unit is almost

identical to the one shown on Page 8-44, except the water pump has a two-line recirculating system. The propellerconversion parts shown are available as separate items.

8-46 LOWER UNIT

ASSEMBLING

1- Place the lower unit on the workbench with the water pump recess facingupward. Install a NEW O-ring into the shiftcavity. Work the bushing into place on topof the O-ring with a punch and mallet.Inject just a couple drops of oil into thebushing and a-ring as an assist during instal-lation of the shift rod.

2- Lower the pinion gear into the hous-ing. Check to be sure it seats properly.

3- Lower the U-shaped pinion gearretaining bracket into position and secure itin place with the attaching screws.

4- Check to be sure the pinion gear isproperly located. Check to be sure the shiftrod is clean and smooth (free of any burrs orcorrosion). Coat the shift rod and the 0-ring with oil as an aid to installation. Slidethe shift rod down through the a-ring andbushing into the gear case.

Assembling the Propeller Shaft 5- Apply a light coating of lubricant to

the washer, and then insert it into thecenter of the reverse gear. Slide the re-verse gear onto the propeller shaft from thepropeller end. Install the thrust washer with

the babbitt side TOWARDS the reverse gear.Install the snap ring, the bearing. Check tobe sure a NEW seal and a-ring has beeninstalled into the seal retainer, and theninstall the retainer.

Forward bearing (left) with a non-replaceable bab-bitt bearing. Reverse bearing (right) with a slidingbabbitt bearing that is replaceable.

6- Slide the clutch dog onto the propel-ler shaft splines. Apply a light coating oflubricant to the washer and then insert itinto the center of the forward gear. Slidethe forward gear onto the end of the propel-ler shaft. Slide the forward gear bearingonto shaft with the large end of the taperTOWARDS the forward gear. Move thebearing into place on the forward gear.

Check to be sure a new O-ring andbearing seal has been installed into the gearcase head, and then install the gearcasehead assembly onto the propeller shaft.

CRITICAL WORDSThe seal retainer has a hole and the

lower housing of the lower unit has a pin.This pin MUST index into the hole in theretainer when the propeller shaft is instal-led. If the pin is not seated properly in thehole, the seal retainer will work part wayout of the housing and the lubricant in thelower unit will be lost.

The seal retainer ready to be installed. The hole inthe retainer must index over the pin in the housing.


7- Slide the propeller shaft assembly in-to the lower unit housing. Check to be surethe forward and reverse gear index with thepinion gear and the hole in the seal retainerindexes with the pin in the lower unit hous-ing. Lubricate the cradle, and then slip itinto the clutch dog groove.

8- Bring the shift lever down over thecradle and snap the fingers of the lever intothe cradle. Check to be sure the clutch dogis in the NEUTRAL position. Push or pull on

8-48 LOWER UNIT

GOOD WORDIf time is taken to grind the end of the

screw to a SHORT point, it will make thetask of installation much easier. If the capand shift lever are not aligned exactly, the

Two shift lever screws. The right screw has beengroWld to assist installation, as explained in the text.

screw will "seek" and make the alignment asit passes through. However, do not make along point or the screw will not have enoughsupport and would bend during operation ofthe shift lever.

12- Use a flashlight and align the hole in-t he cap with the hole in the shift lever. Install the tapered Phillips screw into thehousing and through the lever. Tighten thescrew securely.

13- Install the babbitt or neddle bearing,if it was removed. The babbitt bearing maybe installed using the proper size socket andhammer. If the caged needle bearing isinstalled tap on the numbered side of thebearing.

14- Coat the outside edge of a NEW sealwith No. 1000 sealer, and then tap the sealinto place in the top of the upper lower unithousing.

......... -.-._---

the shift rod to move it up or down until theclutch dog is in the center between theforward and reverse gears.

9- Lay down a bead of No. 1000 Sealerinto the groove of the cap in preparation toinstalling the seal.

10- Place a NEW seal in the lower capand hold the seal in the groove with sealer.Apply a small amount of silicone sealer oneach side of the bearing gear case head.This sealer will form a complete seal whenthe lower unit cap is installed. Position thelower unit cap over the gear assembly ontothe lower unit housing.

11- Apply a drop of sealer into the open-ing for each cap retaining screw to ensure acomplete seal between the cap and thelower unit housing. Install the screws secur-ing the cap to the lower unit housing.Tighten the screws ALTERNATELY andEVENLY.


15- Apply a coating of sealer to theupper surface of the lower unit.

16- Install the water pump base plate.Slide the driveshaft into the lower unit, andthen rotate the shaft very slowly. When thesplines of the driveshaft index with thepinion gear, the shaft will drop slightly.Install the water pump pin or key.

17- Slide the water pump down thedriveshaft and into place on top of thewater pump base plate with the pump pin orkey indexed in the impeller. Lubricate theinside surface of the water pump with light-weight oil.

18- Lower the water pump housing downthe driveshaft and over the impeller. Ro-tate the driveshaft CLOCKWISE as the wa-ter pump housing is lowered to allow theimpeller blades to assume their natural andproper position inside the housing. Continueto rotate the driveshaft and work the waterpump housing downward until it is seated onthe lower unit upper housing.

ALWAYS rotate the driveshaft CLOCK-WISE while the screws are tightened toprevent damaging the impeller vanes. If theimpeller is not rotated, the housing could


Standard water pump (left) and a new type (right),The newer pump is only used with an updated lowerunit.

8-50 LOWER UNIT

damage or cut the end of the vanes as thescrews are brought up tight. The rotationallows them to spring back in a naturalposition.

Place NEW grommets into the waterpump housing for the water pickup. If a newwater pump was installed, this seal willalready be in place.

19- Install a NEW O-ring on the top ofthe driveshaft.


GOOD WORDSConnecting the shift rod with the coup-

ler is not an easy task but can be accom-plished as follows: First, notice the cutoutarea on the end of the shift rod. This areapermi ts the bolt to pass through the coupler,past the shift rod, and into the other side ofthe coupler. It is this bolt that holds theshift rod in the coupler. Now, in order forthe bolt to be properly installed, the cutoutarea on the shift rod MUST be aligned in such a manner to allow the bolt to beproperly installed. Therefore, as the lowerunit is mated with the exhaust housing,exercise patience as the two units cometogether, to enable the bolt to be installedat the proper time. If the rod is allowed tomove too far into the coupler before thebolt is installed, it may be possible to force

Shift rod with the bolt alongside to illustrate howthe bolt must fit into the shift rod groove when the boltis installed through the connector.

Shift rod connector with the clear hole through theconnector and shift rod, indicating the rod. is properlylocated.

the bolt into place, past the shift rod. Thethreads on the bolt will be stripped, and theshift rod will eventually come out of thecoupler.

20- Install the coupler onto the lowerunit shift rod, with the NO THREAD sectionfacing towards the window. With the couplerin this position, the bolt may be insertedthrough the coupler and "catch" the threadson the far side. Install the coupler bolt inthe manner described in the previous para-graph.

21- Check to be sure the water pickuptubes are clean, smooth, and free of anycorrosion. Coat the water pickup tubes andgrommets with lubricant as an aid to instal-lation. Guide the lower unit up into theexhaust housing with the water tube slidinginto the rubber grommet of the water pump.Continue to work the lower unit towards theexhaust housing, and at the same time ro-tate the propeller shaft as an aid to indexingthe driveshaft splines with the crankshaft.

22- Insert the bol t into the connector.TAKE TIME to read and understand the"Good Words" just before Step 20, before


making this connection. After the bolt is inplace, install and secure the window withthe attaching hardware.

Start the bolts securing the lower unit tot he exhaust housing. Tighten the bol tsEVENLY and ALTERNATELY.

23- Install the rear cover over the ex-haust housing on some 35 hp and aU 4-0 hpengines. When the cover is installed, checkto be sure the idle relief rubber tube on theupper side underneath the powerhead fitsinto the recess of the cover. Secure thecover in place with the attaching hardware.

24- Fill the lower unit with lubricant.Insert the lubricant tube into the bottomopening, and then fill the unit until lubricant is visible at the vent hole. Install the vent

8-52 LOWER UNIT

plug. Remove the gear lubricant tube, andinstall the drain/fill plug.

25- After the lower plug has been instal-led, remove the vent plug again and using asquirt-type oil can, add lubricant throughthis vent hole. A squirt-type oil can mustbe used to allow the trapped air in the lowerunit to escape at the same time the finallubricant is added. Once the unit is com-pletely full, install and tighten the ventplug.

A FEW GOOD WORDSThe propeller washer, if used, and drive

pin play an extremely important role. Whenshifting gears during normal operation, or ifthe propeller should hit an underwater ob-stacle, the propeller is subjected to consid-erable shock. A washer is installed betweenthe propeller and drive pin. This washerMUST always be in place for proper opera-tion. If the hub should slip, the propellerwill move back towards the propeller nutand lock against the drive pin. The washeris designed to stop propeller movement sothe drive pin can be easily removed forservice. Now, on with the installation.

26- Install the propeller. Coat the pro-peller shaft with an anti-corrosion grease.Install the propeller with the drive pin holesaligned. Install the washer and drive pin.Slide the propeller cap into place and secureit with the cotter pin.

27- Final adjustment for remote controlunits: Shift the lower unit into NEUTRAL

gear. At the shift box, move the shift leverto the NEUTRAL position. If the pin on theend of the shift cable, does not align withthe shift handle, move the adjusting knobuntil the pin aligns and will move into theshift handle. With the shift cable removed,move the lower unit into FORWARD gearand at the same time rotate the propellerCLOCKWISE to ensure the gears are fullyindexed. At the control box, move the shiftlever into the FORWARD position. Againcheck to be sure the pin on the end of theshift cable aligns with the hole in the shiftlever. Adjust the knob on the shift cableuntil the pin does align with the hole in theshift lever.

Perform a functional check of the com-pleted work by mounting the engine in a testtank, in a body of water, or with a flushattachment connected to the lower unit. Ifthe flush attachment is used, NEVER oper-ate the engine above an idle speed, because the no-load condition on the propeller wouldallow the engine to RUNAWAY resulting inserious damage or destruction of the engine.


Start the engine and observe the tattle-tale flow of water from idle relief in theexhaust housing. The water pump installa-tion work is verified. If a "Flushe tte " isconnected to the lower unit, VERY LITTLEwater will be visible from the idle reliefport. Shift the engine into the three gearsand check for smoothness of operation and satisfactory performance.

8-8 ELECTROMATIC LOWER UNIT

DESCRIPTION

Electromatic gearcases were used on allJohnson 40 hp units from 1962 thru 1970.Prior to 1962, the 40 hp unit was equipped with a manual shift, as covered in theprevious section.

When the unit is shifted to the forwardposition, an electric switch in the shift boxcloses the circuit to the forward electro-magnetic coil in the gearcase. After thecoil is energized, magnetism attracts andanchors the free end of the clutch spring tothe flange of the clutch hub. The revolving gear causes the spring to wrap around thehub, creating a direct coupling with thepropeller shaft.

Power is transmitted through the piniongear, forward gear, and propeller shaft tothe propeller.

When the lower unit is shifted to thereverse position, the reverse coil is energiz-ed, and the same sequence of events takesplace. The reverse gear assembly is AL-WAYS the one nearest the propeller.

The boat battery provides 12-volt powerfor operation. Therefore, all engines cov-ered in this manual are equipped with a

Gear arrangement used on the 40-hp electromaticshift lower unit.

ELECTROMATIC SHIFT 8-53

generator to maintain battery amperage andvoltage for efficient operation of the shiftmechanism. When the key is in the ONposition, power moves through the ignitionswitch to the switch in the shift box, and onto the lower unit.

The necessary wiring is routed from thedash to the shift box; then to the rear ofthe engine to a knife-disconnect fitting; andthen down to the lower unit. The forwardshift wire is green and the reverse wire isblue. An easy way to remember the colorcode is green for go, forward that is.

TROUBLESHOOTING

In order to prevent unnecessary servicework, specific troubleshooting should beperformed. The following steps present alogical sequence of tests and checks topinpoint problems in the lower unit.

1- Check the quantity of lubricant in thelower unit and top it off, if necessary. Theunit will not operate properly if a lubricantother than OMC Type C is used. If anydoubt exists as to the type of lubricant inthe lower unit, drain the unit, refill with theType C material, and then check operationof the shift mechanism. At the same timethe quantity of lubricant is being checked,observe the material carefully for any signof water. Position a suitable containerunder the lower unit, and then remove theFILL plug and the VENT plug. Allow thelubricant to drain into the container. As thelubr icant drains, catch some with your fin-gers, from time-to-time, and rub it betweenyour thumb and finger to determine if any metal particles are present. If metal isdetected in the lubricant, the unit must be

8-54 LOWER UNIT

completely disassembled, inspected, thecause of the problem determined, and thencorrected.

2- Check for a broken shear pin by re-moving the propeller. First pull the cotterkey, and then remove the propeller nut,drive pin, and washer. Because the drive pinis not a tight fit, the propeller is able tomove on the pin and cause burrs on the hole. Propeller removal may be difficult becauseof these burrs. To overcome this problem,the propeller hub has two grooves runningthe full length of the hub. Hold the shaftfrom turning, and then rotate the propeller 1/4- turn to position the grooves over thedrive pin holes. The propeller can then bepulled straight off the shaft. After the

Propeller with the grooves in the hub as an assist toremoval from the shaft.

propeller has been removed, file the drivepin holes on both sides of the shaft toremove the burrs.

3- Check the propeller and the rubberhub. See if the hub is shredded. If thepropeller has been subjected to many strikesagainst underwater objects, it could slip onits hub. For this size engine, in most cases,it is less expensive to purchase a new pro-peller instead of having it rebuilt.

4- Battery Check: Begin with a thor-ough check of the battery. Measure thegravity of the electrolyte in each cell bywithdrawing only enough to lift the float.Take the reading at eye level. A fullycharged battery cell should read 1.280; athalf-charge, 1.210; and a dead battery willread only 1.150. If the electrolyte level islow, bring it up to full level with clean clearwater. NEVER ADD ACID to a batterycell. If water is added, it is not possible totake an accurate reading until the batteryhas been charged for a few hours.

5- Battery Voltage: Check the totalbattery voltage for a full 12 volts. Cleanany corrosion from on or around the cablesand terminals. Remove the cables, cleanthe posts until bright metal is visible.Scrape out the inside of the battery termi-nals, then connect and tighten them secure-ly.

6- Amperage Draw Check: Turn theignition switch to the ON position and ob-serve the amperage reading on the dasham meter. If an amm eter is not installed onthe dash, one must be temporarily connect-ed to the system for this test by firstremoving the wire marked BAT from the keyswitch, and then connecting the ammeter in


ser ies with this wire and 'the key switchterminal marked BAT.

Check the current draw. If the drawexceeds 2.5 amps in either gear, disconnectthe shift wires at the shift wire disconnectson the port side of the engine. Again,check the current draw. A higher readingthan 2.5 amps indicates a short in the wir-ing; in the shift switch; or in the shift box.If the readings are within acceptable limits,reconnect the shift wires at the engine,shift the unit into forward and then reversegear. Cheek the eu rrent draw in each gear.A high-amp draw, indicates a shorted wireto the lower unit, or a short in one of thecoils.

/\. broken dr iveshaf t from the nowerheadto the lower unit indicates both forward andreverse gears were energized at the sametime. Check the shift box, shift switch, andthe wiring to the lower unit.

7- Defective Wiring Check: Leave the wire marked BAT disconnected from the keyswitch for this test. Check the wiring

8-56 LOWER UNIT

leading to the ignition switch and from theswitch for 12 volts. If the reading is lessthan 12 volts, the key switch is defectiveand should be replaced.

8- Shift Box and Coil Tests: Disconnectthe blue and green shift wires at the rear ofthe engine. Connect one lead of avoltmeter to the green wire of the shift box,and the other lead to a good ground. Turnthe ignition switch to ON, and move theshift lever into forward gear. The volt-meter must indicate 12 volts. Next, con-nect the voltmeter to the blue wire, shiftinto reverse gear, and the voltmeter shouldindicate 12 volts. If the voltmeter fails toindicate 12 volts during either one of thesetests, the shift box requires service, seeChapter 7, Accessories.

Leave the shift wires disconnected; turnthe ignition switch OFF; move the shiftlever to the NEUTRAL position; and connectone lead of an ohmmeter to the green(forward) wire leading from the rear of theengine to the lower unit, and the other leadto a good ground. The ohmmeter shouldindicate from 4.5 to 6.5 ohms. Make thesame test for reverse gear, the blue wireleading from the rear of the engine to thelower unit, and check for the same reading.If the ohmmeter fails to indicate the re-quired resistance, a wire is broken, or thecoil in the lower unit is shorted.

ELECTROMA TIC REMOVAL

1- Disconnect the spark plug wires toprevent engine start while performing thework. At the rear of the engine: Slide theinsulating sleeve back on the shift cablewires. Disconnect the shift and engine shiftterminals.

2- Remove the Phillips screws alongeach side of the exhaust cover.

3- Remove the attaching hardware fromthe exhaust plate on the port side of theengine. Remove the two screws from theinner plate and the clamp on the shift wire.

Pull the shift wire down through theexhaust cover. Apply oil or soap onto thecable and remove the inner plate from thecable.

4- If the lower unit being serviced hasthe 6-inch extension above the lower unit,remove the screws from the bottom side ofthe extension. It is not necessary to removethe extension in order to remove the lowerunit. Remove screws securing the lower unitto the exhaust housing or to the extension.Work the lower unit away from the exhausthousing or extension. The water tubes maybe stuck in the water pump. Therefore, ifdifficul ty is encountered in freeing the


lower unit, force a wide blade chisel, stiffscraper, or other suitable tool, between thetwo surfaces and work each side of thelower unit away from the exhaust housing.

DISASSEMBLING

5- Set the cavitation plate on the edgeof the work bench or other suitable surface,and secure it firmly with a C-clamp. Analternate method is to cut a deep 'ry" in apiece of 2" x 611 of wood, and then slide thelower unit into the "VII resting it on thecavitation plate.

6- Remove the O-ring from the top ofthe driveshaft.

O-RING

8-58 LOWER UNIT

7- Remove the screws attaching thewater pump to the lower housing. If thescrews are stubborn and refuse to release,or if they break off due to corrosion, it maybe necessary to actually chisel the waterpump free of the housing. Lift the waterpump and impeller up off the driveshaft.

If the only work to be performed isservice of the water pump, proceed directlyto Page 8-72, Water Pump Installation.

8- Remove the pin or Woodruff key fromthe drives haft , and then remove the baseplate from the lower unit housing.

9- Lift the driveshaft straight up andout of the lower unit.

10- Lay the lower unit flat on the benchbecause when the gearcase nuts are remov-ed, the lower section could drop to the floorand be severely damaged. Use a 9/16" deep-well socket and remove the lower unit gear-case stud nuts, then the washers, and shiftcable retainer. DISCARD the nuts becausethey are the self-locking type and MUSTNOT be used a second time.11- Tap the front cone with a soft-headed

mallet to separate the lower housing fromthe upper housing a distance of about 3".

After the upper and lower housings havebeen separated about 3", slide the terminalsleeves on the forward and reverse wiresback and disconnect the quick-disconnects of the shift cable to the coil.

VERY GOOD WORDSIf the lower housing cannot be dislodged

from the upper housing, because the longbolts extending through the upper housinginto the lower housing are badly corroded, adecision must be made. Something will bedestroyed in order to proceed with the work.In almost all cases the sacrificed piece isthe less expensive upper housing. There-fore, cut through the upper housing on both

sides, as shown. The lower housing can thenbe separated from the upper housing. Thestuds can then be pressed out of the uppe~housing and the hacksaw cut welded shutand the housing returned to service. If thestuds cannot be pressed free, the upperhousing must be replaced.

SPECIAL NOTEThe upper housing has a bearing to ac-

commodate the pinion gear. This bearing iscomprised of 20 individual needles. TAKECARE not to lose any of the needles to thebearing set.

Using a hacksaw to cut through the retaining boltsin order to separate the upper and lower portions of thelower unit.


Separating the upper and lower portions of the lowerunit after the retaining bolts have been cut.

12- Clamp the lower unit by the skeg ina vise equipped with soft jaws, as shown.Remove the retainer screw and washer, thenlift the nylon coil lead retainer from thelower housing and at the same time workthe forward and reverse wires free of theretainer.

13- Remove the four screws in the bear-ing head. This is the cap the propeller shaftpasses through. Notice how each screw hasan O-ring behind the head. These O-ringsMUST be in place during installation tomaintain a water-tight unit.

14- With a small chisel and mallet, workthe cap free of the propeller shaft. Thechisel is to be worked on the cap, NOT inthe groove between the cap and the lowerhousing. If the cap is damaged it may bereplaced without great expense, but damageto the lower unit is BAD NEWS.

8-60 LOWER UNIT

WARNINGThe next step involves a dangerous pro-

cedure and should be executed with carewhile wear ing SAFETY GLASSES. The re-taining ring is under tremendous tension inthe groove and while it is being removed. Ifit should slip off the Truarc pliers, it willtravel with incredible speed causing person-al injury if it should strike a person. There-fore, continue to hold the ring and pliersfirm after the ring is out of the groove andclear of the lower unit. Place the ring onthe floor and hold it securely with one foot before releasing the grip on the pliers. Analternate method is to hold the ring inside atrash barrel, or other suitable container,before releasing the pliers.

15- Obtain a pair of Truarc pliers. In-sert the tips of the pliers into the holes ofthe retaining ring. Now, CAREFULLY re-move the retaining ring from the groove andgear case without allowing the pliers to slip.Release the grip on the pliers in the mannerdescribed in the above WARNING.

16- Install the two screws into the coil.These are the two screws that were rernov-ed from the gear case earlier. Rock the coil

out and at the same time feed the reversecoil blue wire down into the recess in thelower unit. Continue working the coil outand down the propeller shaft until it isclear. The thrust washer will come off with thecoil.

17- Hold the propeller shaft firmly andpull it free from the lower unit housing. The reverse gear, spring, and hub will comeout with the shaft as an assembly.

18- Reach into the lower housing andremove the pinion gear. Remove the for-ward gear, spring, and hub assembly.

OBSERVENotice the metal guard extending down

the inside of the lower unit. This guardprotects the forward coil wire. Identify thePhillips screw in the bottom of the lowerhousing.

19- Remove the screw and metal tab inthe bottom of the lower housing.

20- Using a special coil remover, toolNo. 379784 and Kit No. 379843, remove theforward coil. If these tools are not avail-able, you may heat the outside edge of thelower housing with a torch. A considerableamount of heat will be required. After thehousing is heated, grasp the studs with agloved hand and at the same time tap thehousing on a board. The forward coil andbearing race will be released from the hous-ing. If the tools are available, the coil andrace can be removed with no sweat.

21- Remove the seal from the gear casehead, by driving it out from the backsidewith a .screwdr iver or punch and mallet. Aspecial seal remover, is available, but most


Using a slide hammer to remove the forward bearingrace from the lower unit.

professional mechanics use heat and drivethe seal out. This method is very effectiveand adjacent parts are not harmed. Removethe O-ring f rom the bear ing case head.

WORD OF ADVICEProfessional mechanics have discovered

that when the lower unit is being rebuilt, a

8-62 LOWER UNIT

new gear case head should be purchased andinstalled. The new head will have a newbearing, O-ring, and seal installed as anassembly.

22- On the upper housing of the lowerunit, use a slide hammer with the adaptorfingers fitting behind the pinion gear bear-ing, and remove the bearing from the hous-ing.

23- After the upper bear ing has beenremoved, reach in and remove the washer,thrust bearing, and another washer. Noticethe different size holes in the two washers.

24- Remove the upper driveshaft sealusing a special puller No. 377565 or astandard seal remover.

25- Remove the upper bearing using spe-cial tool No. 309916.

GOOD WORDS In most cases, it is not necessary to

remove the upper bearing. A couple ofquick checks can be made to determine thecondition of the bearing. One is to feel thedriveshaft in the area where it passesthrough the bearing. If the shaft is smoothwith no indication of roughness, the bearingis usually considered fit for further service.Another method is to insert a finger into the

center of the bearing and determine if theneedles roll freely and smoothly. If there isno evidence of binding or roughness, thebear ing does not have to be removed andreplaced. In other words, let a sleeping doglie.

MORE GOOD WORDSThe forward and reverse gear assemblies

look almost identical. However, there is adifference. The forward gear uses a babbitt

Reverse (left) and forward (right) gear, bearing, andhub assemblies. The reverse gear has a caged needlebearing arrangement; the forward gear has a babbittbearing.

Reverse (left) and forward (right) gear hubs. Thereverse hub has a smooth exterior surface and theforward gear is knurled.

bearing and the hub is knurled to providemore positive engagement. The reversegear assembly uses needle bearings and thehub is smooth. The greatest percentage ofmotor operation is in forward gear with thereverse gear turning in the opposite direc-tion, the needle bearings are used in thereverse gear hub for more satisfactory oper-ation. Proper gear installation is extremelycritical for satisfactory performance. Thehubs are different and are easily identified.After the gears are assembled it is veryeasy, in a moment of haste, to pick a gearassembly from the bench and install it in thewrong location. Therefore, after the ser-vice work on the gears has been completedand they are ready for installation, identifyone with a felt pen marking or with a tag toensure proper installation.

STILL MORE GOOD WORDSIf the clutch has been slipping, replace

the spring and the hub. It is very difficultto accurately determine what is considered"excessive" wear on these two items. There-fore, if the clutch has been slipping, themodest cost of the spring and hub is justi-fied in eliminating this area as a possiblesource of shifting problems.

26- Obtain and wear a pair of SAFETYGLASSES while working with the Truarcpliers in this step. Practice the sameSAFETY precautions given in Step 15 andthe WARNING just before that step.Disassemble the forward and reverse gear


assembly using a pair of Truarc pliers andcarefully remove the snap ring from the hubon the front of the gear.

27- Lift the gear and spring assemblyfrom the hub. As mentioned earlier in the"More Good Words", the forward gear has ababbitt bearing and the reverse gear aneedle bearing arrangement. Therefore,EXERCISE CARE when lifting the reversegear from the hub, not to lose any of theneedles.

28- To remove the springs from the for-ward and reverse gears, first remove theAllen screws around the outside diameter ofeach gear. Next, pull the spring fromthe gear. Notice the nylon taperedspacer installed under the spring. Thiswasher MUST be installed properly topermit the spring to seat level in thegear.

Perform Steps 26 thru 28 for theot her gear. AMA"""" ,,'<i"'/i'®!!n"/b;li&a,%'~!i'/'9;t;®,@i!,%%'i','\!'!kf!!k%Wlk'&,'@I\h~_

8-64 LOWER UNIT

Exploded drawing of a typical electric shift lowerunit installed on 40 hp engines, with major parts identified.


Clean the parts with solvent and blowthem dry with compressed air. Remove allseal and gasket material from mating sur-faces. Blow all water and oil passages, andscrew holes clean with air.

After the parts are clean and dry, applya coating of light engine oil to the bearingsand bright mating surfaces of the shafts andgears as a prevention against corrosion.

Inspect the shaft bearing surfaces,splines, and keyways for wear and burrs.Check for evidence of an inner bear ing raceturning on the shaft. Check for damagedthreads. Measure the runout on all shafts toreveal any bent condition. If necessary,turn the shaft in a lathe as a check for out-of-round.

Carefully check the inside and outsidesurfaces of the gearcases, housing, and cov-ers for cracks. Pay special attention to theareas around screw and shaft holes. Verify all traces of old gasket material has beenremoved from mating surfaces. Check 0-ring grooves for sharp edges which could cut a new seal. Inspect gear teeth and shaftholes for wear and burrs. Hold the centerrace of each bearing and turn the outer raceto be sure it turns freely without any evi-dence of rough spots or binding. Inspect therollers and balls for any sign of pits or flat spots.

Lower unit with a broken stud. This type of damageis usually the result of not using a NEW nut on the studthe last time the unit was assembled. The nut workedloose, allowed the two sections to vibrate, and the studwas broken. The stud must now be drilled out andreplaced.

ELECTROMA TIC SHIFT 8-65

Comparison of a new thrust bearing (left) with awom and broken bearing cage (right).

Inspect the outside diameter of the outerraces and the inside diameter of the innerraces for evidence of turning in the housingor on the shaft. Any sign of discoloration orscores is evidence of overheating.

Check the thrust washers for wear anddistortion. If they do not have uniformthickness and lay flat, they MUST be replac-ed.

Inspect all springs for tension, distortion,corrosion or discoloration.

Inspect the shift cables for broken leadsor damaged insulation. Use an ohmmeterand test for continuity. Use the ohmmeterto test the coil resistance which shouldindicate 4.5 to 6.5 ohms. Check the coilleads for breaks and damaged insulation.

Replacing the shift cable by drilling out the remain-ing cable with an undersized drill after the old cable has been broken off as close to the housing as possible.

8-66 LOWER UNIT

Check the water pickup screen on theupper housing. Blow air through the screen to dislodge any debris. Clean the areabehind the screen.

Inspect the propeller for cracks, gouged,bent, or broken blades. Replace all bent,worn, corroded, or damaged parts. Burrscan be removed with a file.

ALWAYS install NEW O-rings, gaskets,and seals during assembling and installationto prevent leaks.

ASSEMBLING ELECTROMA TIC

Forward and Reverse Gear Assemblies

1- Insert the spacer, with its key, intothe slot in the cupped end of the FORWARDgear in such a way that it encircles the gearin the opposite direction to the normalwinding of the spring coils. Place the springin the gear with the spring key beside thespacer key. Now, shift both keys to the sideof the slot against which they will pull.

2- Coat three NEW setscrews with Loc-tite TL-242, and install them in the forwardgear. Tighten the setscrews in rotation, toa torque value of 30-35 In--lbs., beginningwith the one neaf,est the spring. Bake theassembly in a 300 oven for 1/2 hour. If an oven is not available, apply Locquic Primer"T" to the screws before tightening them, and then allow them to cure for lJ. hours.

3- The tolerance between the clutch huband the bushing is very close. CAREFULLY slide the gear-and-sprlng assembly onto thehub.

New shift cable ready for installation. Coat thecable with lubricant as an aid to installation.

WARNINGThis next step can be dangerous. The

snap ring is placed under tremendous tensionwith the Truarc pliers while it is beingplaced into the hub groove. Therefore, wearSAFETY GLASSES and exercise care toprevent the snap ring from slipping out ofthe pliers. If the snap ring should slip out itwould travel with incredible speed and causepersonal injury if it struck a person.

4- Install the Truarc snap ring into thegroove of the forward gear hub.

5- Assemble the REVERSE gear by firstinstalling the nylon spacer into the cuppedend of the reverse bevel gear, with its key


in the slot of the bevel gear. The spacerMUST be positioned to encircle the cuppedarea in the opposite direction to the normal winding of the spring coil. Install the springwith the key indexed in the slot beside thespacer key. Slide both keys against the sideof the slot they will pull against whenreverse gear is selected.

6- Coat three Allen-head cup-pointsetscrews with Loctite,and then installthem to secure the spring to the bevel gear.Tighten the setscrews in rotation, to atorque value of 30-35 ln.vlbs., beginningwith the one nearest the spring. Bake theassembly in a 3000 oven for 1/2 hour. If anoven is not available, apply Locquic Primer"T" to the screws before tightening them,and then allow them to cure for '+ hours.

8-68 LOWER UNIT

7- TAKE NOTE of the ring at the topof the reverse hub used to retain the needlebear ings. The needle bearings are held in acage. The correct number of needles willfill the cage. This ring is the only visibledifference between the forward and reversehubs. Coat the needle bearings with greaseor vaseline to hold them in place. ALWAYScount and take care to be sure the totalnumber of needle bearings are replaced dur-ing installation. NEVER use a grease to holdthe needles in place which will not dissolvequickly, or the parts will be ruined due tolack of initial lubrication. After the needlebear ings are all in place , CAREFULLY slidethe gear-and-spring assembly down over thehub.

8- A Truarc snap ring secures the gearto the hub. Use a pair of Truarc snap-ringpliers to install this snap ring with thechamfered edge against the bevel gear.

Assembling the Bearing Head 9- If the bearing head seal was removed,

press a new seal into the head. The seal canbe installed using a block of wood and amallet. If the bearing was removed, installa new bearing from the back side of the head. A special bearing installer tool, No. -308104 is required to install the bearing.Press against the LETTERED side of thebearing, until the bearing is flush with thehead surface. If the special bearing tool isnot available, a new head must be purchasedwith the bearing installed. Install a NEW 0-ring around the head seal.

Assembling the Lower Unit10- Use special bear ing installer Tool

No. 378737 and No. 308099 and press theupper bear ing into the upper housing, if theor iginal was removed. Press against thelettered side of the bearing.

11- Position the upper housing rightsideup, and install the seal above the bearing.This seal may be carefully tapped into placewith a mallet.

12- To install the lower pinion gear bear-ing: Position the washer with the large holein the gear case, then the thrust washer, andthen the washer with the small hole. Installthe lower pinion gear bearing outer raceusing special tool No. 378737 and

No. 308098. Press against the lettered sideof the bearing. If the special tools are notavailable, the race can be carefully worked into place with a soft-headed mallet.

13- Install the front propeller shaftbearing race, using driver shaft guide plateand bearing race installer, Tool No. 309033,No. 309932, and No. 379247. Place thetapered front portion of the lower unit on ablock of wood and drive the race into thehousing. If the special tools are not avail-able, the outside diameter of the lower unitmay be heated and the race tapped in with awooden block and mallet.

14- Install the cone-shaped roller bear-ing into the bearing race Naturally, thetapered end of the bear ing enters the racefirst.

15- Install the forward coil in the hous-ing using special tool No. 379230. Feed thecoil wire into the groove in the bottom ofthe housing. Use a dr iver shaft and guideplate to install the coil properly.

16- The wire ends have a plasticcovering. This covering must be locatedbehind the metal guard. The guard clampmust fit alongside the housing. Install thePhillips screw in the bottom of the housingwith part of the metal tab protruding out of


the square hole on top of the lower unit andalso with the wire coming out the hole.

17- Lower the forward gear, hub, andspring assembly into the lower unit and overthe forward coil.

IS- Position the pinion gear into its re-cess and resting against the forward gear.

8-10 LOWER UNIT

GOOD WORDSThe accompanying photographs were

taken of a V4 Electromatic lower unit. The40 hp has two flat washers and a thrustwasher installed on top of the pinion bearingin the upper portion of the lower unit. Thesewasher were installed in Step 12.Therefore, disregard the washers shown justabove the pinion gear.

19- Hold the pinion gear up and at thesame time install the propeller shaft. Asthe propeller shaft is moved into the lowerunit, turn the shaft slowly CLOCKWISE toallow the splines on the propeller shaft toengage in the forward gear.

20- Install the reverse gear with thesplines of the reverse gear hub engaged withthe splines of the propeller shaft.

21- Install the reverse coil and at thesame time feed the blue lead through theopening in the lower housing. The lead onthe back side of the coil MUST be on TOP.

WARNINGThis next step can be dangerous. The

snap ring is placed under tremendous tensionwith the Truarc pliers while it is being

placed into the groove. Therefore, wearSAFETY GLASSES and exercise care toprevent the snap ring from slipping out ofthe pliers. If the snap ring should slip out, itwould travel with incredible speed and causepersonal injury if it struck a person.

22- Use a pair of Truarc pliers and in-stall the Truarc snap ring into the groovejust forward of the coil. Check to be surethe coil leads are correctly positioned andwill not be damaged by any moving part inthe lower unit. Double check to be sure thegreen lead is well protected by the metalguard. Secure the leads in the nylon retain-er, with the washer and screw. DO NOTovertighten the screw as a precaution a-gainst damaging the wire.

GOOD WORDSAlignment of the gear case head holes

with the holes in the reverse coil is verydifficult because once the head is in place,the O-ring prevents the head from turning.Therefore, before installing the gear casehead, insert a guide pin into opposite cornerholes in the reverse coil. Check to be surethe large O-ring is properly positioned in thegroove in the gear case head.

24- Install the gear case head with theholes in the head indexing over the pinsprotruding from the reverse coil holes asdescribed in the previous paragraph, "GoodWords". Dip the gear case head screws inPerfect Seal No.4, or equivalent, and thenslide an O-ring onto the screw. Now, startthe screws through the holes that do notcontain pins. DO NOT tighten the screws atthis time. Remove the two pins and startthe other two screws. Tighten the fourscrews alternately and evenly. Rotate thepropeller shaft and check to be sure it turnswithout excessive drag.

25- Set the wires into the retainer andsecure them in place with the screw andwasher. The washer will hold the screw.


Bearing head screw with O-ring. A NEW O-ringshould be installed each time the screw is removedduring service work. The recess in the screw head mustbe cleaned to allow the O-ring to seat properly. If thering is left exposed, when the screw is tightened, thehead will cut and destroy the sealing ability of the ring.

26- Check to be sure the coils have notgrounded to the lower unit. This can beaccomplished by using an ohmmeter tocheck the forward and reverse coil for resis-tance. The meter should indicate 4.5 to 6.5ohms resistance.

27- Turn the upper section of the lowerunit upside-down. Apply a heavy coating of

Iii. _Ulli •• ". "_l\~\ '-:::/23- Slide the thrust washer onto the

propeller shaft and into the recess of thecoil with the babbitt side of the washerFACING the coil.

8-72 LOWER UNIT

OMC needle bearing lubricant into the pin-ion gear race. Install the needle bearings inthe outer race.

28- Coat the O-ring groove around thepinion gear bearing with sealer. Install theO-ring into the groove.

29- Clamp the skeg of the lower sectionin a vise. Attach a pair of vise grip pliersabout 3-inches up on one of the lower sec-tion studs. Lower the upper section downover the studs until the section rests on thevise grip pliers. Connect the wire cable,green-to-green and blue-to-blue. Pull thesleeves down over the connectors. Applysealer around the surface of the lower sec-tion O-ring. Remove the vise grip pliersfrom the stud and slowly lower the upper housing down onto the lower section.

30- Check to be sure the shift cableretaining fork is over the hole as the studpasses through the retainer washer.Continue to lower the upper housing and atthe same time work the shift wires up intothe cavity of the upper housing to preventthe wires from being pinched when theupper housing makes contact with the lowersection. Replace one washer over eachstud with a self-locking nut. Tighten thenuts alternately and evenly.

Obtain an ohmmeter. Check theresistance of the forward and reverse wiresfor 4.5 to 6.5 ohms resistance. If theohmm eter does not indicate the proper re-sistance on each lead, the lower unit MUSTbe separated and the wiring check for ashort or broken wire.


31- Lower the driveshaft down throughthe water pump seal and into the lower unit.As the dr iveshaft is lowered, rotate theshaft slowly to permit the splines on theshaft to index with the pinion gear.

32- Apply sealer to the upper housingsurface, and then place the water pumpplate in posi tion on the upper housing.

33- Install the Woodruff key into therecess in the driveshaft. Some models mayuse a pin. If the pin is used, insert it intothe hole in the driveshaft. Slide the NEWimpeller down the driveshaft with the slot inthe impeller aligned with the Woodruff keyor the pin, if a pin is used. Continue towork the impeller down the driveshaft untilit is resting on the surface of the waterpump plate.

34- Check to be sure NEW seals and 0-rings have been installed in the water pump.Lubricate the inside surface of the waterpump with light-weight oil. Lower thewater pump housing down the driveshaft andover the impeller. Rotate the driveshaftCLOCKWISE as the water pump housing islowered to allow the impeller blades to

Comparison of a new (left) water pump impeller,with one unfit for service (right).


assume their natural and proper positioninside the housing. Continue to rotate thecrivesbaf t and work the water pump housingdownward until it is seated on the lower unitupper housing.

Coat the threads of the water pumpattaching screws with sealer, and then se-cure the pump in place with the screws.Tighten the screws alternately and evenly.

35- Fill the lower unit with lubricant.Use only OiVC Type C or PremiumLubricant. The unit will not operateproperly with any other type or brand oflubr icant. Insert the lubricant tube into thebottom opening, and then fill the unit untillubricant is visible at the vent hole. Install

8-74 LOWER UNIT

the vent plug. Remove the gear lubricanttube, and install the drain/fill plug.

36- After the lower plug has beeninstalled, remove the vent plug again anduse a squirt-type oil can to add lubricantthrough this vent hole. A squirt-type oil canmust be used to allow the trapped air in thelower unit to escape at the same time thefinal lubricant is added. Once the unit iscompletely full, install and tighten the ventplug.

37- Check to be sure the O-ring on topof the water pump is in place.

38- Install the O-ring onto the top of thedriveshaft just below the splines.

O-RING

GOOD WORDSClean both lower unit water tubes with

sandpaper. These tubes should be clean andshiny as an aid to mating the lower unit tothe exhaust housing. If these tubes are notthoroughly clean, great difficulty may beencountered in mating the lower unit withthe exhaust housing. After the water tubeshave been cleaned, apply a light coating ofoil or lubricant to the outside surface of thetubes. Apply a light coating of oil to theelectric shift cable.


39- Position the assembled lower unitunder the exhaust housing. Work the elec-tr ic shift cable up through the exhaust hous-ing and out the hole on the port side. Slowly

lift the lower unit into place with the drive-shaft indexing wi th the crankshaft splinesand the water tubes entering the exhausthousing grommets. It may be necessary tohave an assistant rotate the flywheel everso slowly CLOCKWISE and to pull the elec-tric shift cable through while the lower unitis being mated with the exhaust housing.Rotating the flywheel will permit the drive-shaft to index with the splines of the crank-shaft. Coat the threads of the attachingscrews with sealer. After the mating sur-faces of the exhaust housing and the lowerunit have made contact, start the screwssecuring the two units together. Tightenthe screws alternately and evenly.

40- Feed the electric shift cable throughthe inner exhaust cover until the cover is inplace on the surface of the exhaust housing.Secure the cover in place with the twoattaching screws. A REMINDER: The upperscrew also holds the damp used to securethe shift cable in place.

41- Install the rear housing cover withthe exhaust relief boot fitting into the re-cess of the cover. Secure the cover in placewith the attaching hardware.

42- Position the outer exhaust cover inplace on the port side. Secure the cover inplace with the attaching hardware.

43- Connect the shift wires to theharness at the back of the engine, BLUE-to-BLUE and GREEN-to-GREEN. Slide therubber protective sleeves in place over theconnectors.


Exhaust housing with the inner plGte installed andthe Shift wire clamp properly installed.

Propeller Installation

A FEW GOOD WORDSThe propeller washer and drive pin play

an extremely important role. When shiftinggears during normal operation, or if thepropeller should hit an underwater obstacle,the propeller is subjected to considerableshock. A washer is installed between thepropeller and drive pin. This washer MUSTalways be in place for proper operation. Ifthe hub should slip, the propeller will moveback towards the propeller nut and lockagainst the drive pin. The washer is design-ed to stop propeller movement so the drivepin can be easily removed for service. Now,on with the installation.

8-76 LOWER UNIT

44- Coat the propeller shaft with ananti-corrosion grease. Install the propellerwith the drive pin holes aligned. Install thewasher and drive pin. Slide the propellercap into place and secure it with the cotterpin.

If the unit being serviced has the propel-ler using the rear-type shear pin arrange-ment: Install the shear pin and then coatthe propeller shaft with anti-corrosiongrease. Install the propeller, propeller nut,and then the cotter pin.

45- Perform a functional check of thecompleted work by mounting the engine in atest tank, in a body of water , or with a flushattachm ent connected to the lower unit. Ifthe flush attachment is used, NEVER oper-ate the engine above an idle speed, because

the no-load condition on the propeller wouldallow the engine to RUNAWAY resulting inserious damage or destruction of the engine.

CAUTION: Water must circulate throughthe lower unit to the engine any time the en-gine is run to prevent damage to the waterpump in the lower mit. Just five secondswithout water will damage the water pump.

Start the engine and observe the mist ofwater from the idle relief port in the ex-haust housing. The water pump installationwork is verified. Shift the engine into thethree gears and check for smoothness ofoperation and satisfactory performance.

9 HAND STARTER

9-1 INTRODUCTION

Three different type hand starters maybe installed on the Johnson/Evinrude out-board engines covered in this manual. Eachtype starter may have two, and sometimesthree, models. All will be covered in thischapter with detailed procedures andillustrations.

Type IThe first type is a cylinder with a pinion

gear arr angern ent similar to an automotivestarter motor. The unit is mounted on theside of t he engine in a vertical position. Asthe starter rope is pulled, a nylon drive gear

Starter installation on the 5 hp and 6 hp engines.This starter is similar in operation to an automotivetype starter.

slides upward and engages the flywheel ringgear. Once the engine starts the drive gearautomatically disengages. Service proce-dures for both models of this starter arepresented in Sections 9-2 and 9-3.

Type IIOne model of this type starter will be

found on the outboards covered in this man-ual. The starter assembly is mounted on theport side of the engine and the drive gearworks on an axis and enga.ges the flywheeldirectly. As the rope is pulled, a swing

Starter installation on all 9.5 hp engines. Notice thedifference with the unit in the left column, this page.

9-2 HAND STARTERS

arm roves the drive gear upward to engage\-,vith the teeth of the Ilvvbeel rins; gear. Acoil spring winds and tightens as the ropeunwinds. The spring then coils the ropearound a pulley as the rope handle is return-ed to the control panel.

Service procedures for this hand starterare presented in Section 9-4.

Type IIIThis type starter is mounted atop the

flywheel with three mounting legs attachedto the power head. The mechanism consistsof a starting rope and handle, a rewindspring, and an arrangement of pawls andcorresponding clutch dogs. The completeassembly is contained in a housing securedby three legs extending to the power head.

When the starter rope is pulled, thepawls automatically engage the clutch dogsattached to the flyweel and the engine iscranked.

Three models of this type starter may beinstalled on various Johnson/Evinrude en-gines covered in this manual.

The first model contains pawls with re-turn springs, a center cone, and a set ofspring-release dogs that engage with theIlywheel ring gear when the starter rope ispulled. Service procedures are presented inSection 9-5.

The second model does not have springpawls or a center cone, but has friction-typedogs. Service procedures are given in Sec-tion 9-6.

The third model has only one nylon pawlwhich engages into cut-a-ways in the outeredge of the flywheel. Service proceduresfor this model are in Section 9-7.

Swing arm type starter mounted on the port side on3 hp and 4 hp engines.

Starter mounted atop the flywheel. This unit hasthe three pawls with return springs. This starter modelmay be found on the 28 hp, 30 hp, 35 hp, and 40 hpengines.

OPERATION

Normally, very few problems are en-countered with the hand starter. It isstrictly a mechanical device to crank theengine for starting. The spring w ill last anincredibly long time, if used properly. Thegreatest enemy of the spring is the opera-tor.

Starter mounted atop the flywheel. This modelstarter has the three pawls, with a friction disc and noreturn springs. This model may be found on the 28 hp,33 hp, and 40 hp engines.

Three causes contribute to starter fail-ure. Two may be prevented, the thirdcannot.

The most common problem is the resultof the operator pulling the starter rope toofar outward. If the operator places onehand on the engine and pulls the rope withthe other hand, it is physically impossible, inthis posi ton, to pull the rope too far. Prob-lems develop when the operator uses bothhands to pull on the rope, with no control onhow far the rope can be extended. The ropemay be broken or the knot released from thestarter disc. In either case, the springrewinds with trem endous speed and in al-most all cases travels past its normal rewindposition bending the end of the spring inreverse. Therefore, more maintenance workis involved than merely replacing the rope.

Another bad habit, while using the handstarter, is to release the grip on the ropewhen it is in the extended position, allowingthe rope to freely rewind. The operatorshould NEVER release his grip, but hold ontothe rope, and thus control the rewind. Theowner should always be alert to any wear onthe rope and replace it long before thepossibility of breaking might occur. If therope should break, the spring would rewindwith incredible speed, the same as if therope were released, causing damage to thespring and other starter parts.

The third cause of spring failure cannotbe prevented -- age. As the outboard con-tinues to perform year after year, the ageof the spring steel will finally take its toll.

This single pawl starter may be installed on 3 hp to25 hp engines.

PINION GEAR 5 & 6 HP 9-3

The rewind spring is made of springsteel. Depending on the model and thepower head, from 6 feet to 12 feet of springlength is wound into about a 4- inch diame-ter. This places the spring under unbeliev-able tension, making it a highly DANG-EROUS force. Therefore, any time the handstarter is serviced, especially during workon the spr ing, SAFETY GLASSES should beworn and the work performed with the ut-most care.

Any time the rope is broken, the starterspring will rewind with incredible speed.Such action will cause the spring to rewindpast its norrn al travel and the end of thespring will be bent back out of shape.Therefore, if the rope has been broken, thestarter should be completely disassembledand the spring repaired or replaced.

9-2 TYPE I STARTERCYLINDER WITH PINION GEAR5 HP AND 6 HP ENGINES

This gear-dr ive starter is a new designemploying the principle of an automotivetype starter motor. When the starter ropeis pulled, the starter rotates, and a nylonpinion gear slides upward and engages theflywheel ring g~ar. The gear automaticallydisengages when the engine starts. Theratio between the pinion gear and the ringon the flywheel has been selected to providemaximum cranking speed with minimum pulling effort to ensure fast, easy enginestart.

The starter rope broke on this unit and the springrewound with such incredible speed it doubled back inreverse.

9-4 HAND STARTERS

STARTER ROPE REPLACEMENTREMOVAL

1- Disconnect the high-tension leadsfrom the spark plugs. Ground the high-tension leads. Pull the starter rope out untilit is fully extended, Now, allow the rope toretract just a little, until the knot end onthe spool is facing the port side of theengine. Lift the pinion gear to engage theflywheel ring gear. Hold the pinion gearengaged with the ring gear, and at the sametime, slide the handles of a pair of pliersunder the pinion gear to lock the pinion gearwith the ring gear, as shown.

2- Remove the handle from the end ofthe starter rope. OBSERVE how the rope iswound onto the spool and how the rope issecured by a loop formed in a slot in thespool. Remove the rope from the starterspool.

INSTALLATIONRope Purchase Instructions

The length and diameter of the starterrope required will vary depending on thesize horsepower engine being serviced.Therefore, check the Hand Starter RopeSpecifications in the Appendix, and thenpurchase a quality nylon piece of the properlength and diameter size. Only with theproper rope, will you be assured of efficientoperation following installation.

Each end of the nylon rope should be"fused" by burning them slightly with a verysmall flame (a match flame will do) to meltthe fibers together. After the end fibershave been "fused" and while they are still

hot, use a piece of cloth as protection andpull the end out flat to prevent a "glob"from forming.

3- Feed one end of the new rope throughthe spool anchor, make a loop, and thenthread the end back through the hole in the anchor, but DO NOT pull it tight at thistime, leave a loop.

4- Bring the short end of the ropethrough the loop just form ed,

5- Work the short end back through theanchor, as shown.

6- Now, pull both ends of the rope tight.7- Feed the rope through the front engine

cowling, and then install the starter ropehandle. Pull and hold tension on the rope,

and at the same time remove the pliersfrom under the pinion gear. Allow thestarter rope to rewind in a normal manner.After the rope is fully wound onto thestarter spool, the rope handle should be uptight against the engine cowling. If thehandle is not up tight, the rope was installedto long or the starter spring is weak andshould be replaced.

STARTER REMOVAL

AUTHOR'S NOTEFor photographic clarity, the accomp-

anying pictures were taken servicing a star-ter from a powerhead removed from theexhaust housing. The hood need only beremoved to work on the starter.

1- Pull approximately 3/l~ of the starterrope out, and then form a knot in the ropeto prevent it from recoiling. Allow the ropeto recoil until the knot is tight against thecowling. Remove the rope handle.


9-6 HAND STARTERS

2- The rope may be removed now, orlater. To remove the rope now, first pullthe rope all the way out. Slide the handlesof a pair of pliers under the pinion gear tohold the gear engaged with the flywheel.Remove the rope from the starter spool.

3- Grasp the spool firmly. Remove thepliers and allow the spool to slip a little at atime until the spring is completely unwound.

4- Remove the two retaining bolts ontop of the starter.

5- Loosen, but DO NOT remove thebolts on the bottom and on each side of thestarter spool. When the bottom two boltsare loosened, the retainer will separatefrom the lower cap. Lift the starter fromthe engine housing. If the spring is stilldipped into the lower retainer, release thespring by disengaging the spring tang fromthe retainer.

DISASSEMBLING

6- Remove the pin in the piruon gear,and then remove the pinion gear from thecollar. Slip the bearing head off the spool.Remove the retainer, installed under thepinion gear, from the starter.

7- Remove the spring retainer (the longtube) from the center of the spool.

8- Pull the starter spring from the spool.


Wash all parts in solvent, and then drythem with compressed air.

Inspect and replace the main spring if itis damaged or worn. Check the bottom endof the spring very carefully to be sure thetwo tangs (one on the inner and the other onthe outer spring) are in good condition with no sign of distortion.

Inspect the bushing in the bottom collarof the starter housing. This bushing was notremoved in the disassembling procedures.Feel with a finger for any roughness, burrs,or other evidence of excessive wear or dam-age. If the bushing is in good condition, itneed not be removed.

Check the rope condition. If the rope isfrayed or shows any sign of weakness, itshould be replaced. There will never be aneasier time to replace the rope than whilethe starter is disassembled.

Inspect the teeth of the pinion gear. Theteeth will show some signs of normal wear.A broken tooth or excessive wear on oneside of the teeth is justification for replace-ment.


Inspect the groove through the piniongear. This is the groove to accommodate theroll pin. Check to be sure the upper part ofthe pinion gear is not cracked or distorted.

DO NOT lubricate the pinion gear. Oilapplied to the pinion gear will attract dirtcausing the gear to bind on the spool. Lu-bricate the upper and lower spool bearingsurfaces with just a drop of outboard lubri-cant. Apply outboard oil to the spring onthe pinion gear. DO NOT oil the pinion gearbearing or the surfaces of the spring.

ASSEMBLING

GOOD NEWSTwo methods of assembling and

installing this starter are presented. Thefirst is the factory suggested procedure andbegins with the following steps on this page.

An alternate method is also outlinedwhich many professional mechanics feel ismuch simplier , easier, and quicker. Thealternate method begins on Page 9-9 andincludes steps IA thru 5A.

After the starter is assembled andinstalled on the powerhead, continue thework with Step 7.

Factory Method 1- Install the spring retainer from the

bottom side. Slide the spring onto the

9-8 HAND STARTERS

spring retainer. Work the spring upwarduntil the inner spring tang engages the sloton t he bottom of the retainer.

2- Align the hole in the retainer withthe hole in the spool sleeve.

3- Slip the bearing head and pinion geardown over the spool shaft. Install the rollpin through the pinion gear and sleeve.

4- If the lower bushing was removed,install a NEW bushing into the bottom collaron the engine.

HELPFUL WORDAs an assist to installation, first soak the

bushing in hot water for about ten minutes,and then lubricate it with just a drop ofoutboard oil.

5- The tang on the outer spring musthook into the slot of the lower springretainer plate. Pull on the outer spring toelongate the spring, and at the same time,lower the spring into the spring retainerplate and hook the tang into the slot in theplate. Rotate the spring CLOCKWISE tolock the tang in the plate. Hold upward andturn the spring CLOCKWISE, and at thesame time tighten the two screws in thelower spring retainer plate.

6- Place the starter assembly in positionon the engine and start the two upperscrews through the upper bearing support.Check to be sure the guide is in place in thebottom and top retainers. Tighten the twobottom retainer screws.

Alternate Assembling Method lA- If the lower bushing was removed,

install a NEW bushing into the bottom collaron the engine.

HELPFUL WORDAs an assist to installation, first soak the

bushing in hot water for about ten minutes,and then lubricate it with just a dorp ofoutboard oil.

2A- Install the spring retainer from thebottom side of the spool. Slip the bearinghead and pinion gear down the spool shaft.Align the holes and install the roll pinthrough the pinion gear and spool.

3A- Take the spring and lower it intothe bottom retainer. Hook the outer springinto the retainer.


9-10 HAND STARTERS

4A- Lower the spool assembly down overthe spring and engage the spring retainerinto the tang of the inner spring.

5A- Start the two upper screws throughthe upper bearing support. Check to be surethe guide is in place in the bottom and topretainers. Tighten the two bottom retainerscrews.

7- Insert a large size screwdriver intothe top of the spool, and then rotate thespool, by count, exactly 16-1/2 completeturns. Lift the pinion gear to engage theflywheel ring gear, and then slip a pair ofplier handles under the pinion gear to hold itin mesh with the ring gear.

8- Feed one end of the new rope throughthe spool anchor, make a loop, and thenthread the end back through the hole in theanchor, but DO NOT pull it tight at thistime, leave a loop.

9- Bring the short end of the ropethrough the loop just formed.

10- Work the short end back through theanchor, as shown. 11- Now, pull both ends of the rope tight.12- Feed the rope through the front en-

gine cowling, and then install the starterrope handle. Hold tension on the rope withthe handle and at the same time, removethe pliers from underneath the pinion gear.Allow the starter rope to wind onto thespool. After the rope has been wound ontothe spool, the starter handle should be uptight against the engine cowling. If thehandle is not up tight against the cowlingthe rope was installed too long and needs tobe shortened.

PINION GEAR ALL 9.5 HP 9-11

9-3 TYPE I STAR TERCYLINDER WITH PINION GEARALL 9.5 HP ENGINES

This gear-drive starter is a new designemploying the principle of an automotivetype starter motor. When the starter ropeis pulled, the starter rotates, and a nylonpinion gear slides upward and engages theflywheel ring gear. The gear automaticallydisengages when the engine starts. Theratio between the pinion gear and the ringon the flywheel has been selected to providemaximum cranking speed with minimumpulling effort to ensure fast, easy enginestart.

ROPE REMOVAL

1- Disconnect the high-tension leadsfrom the spark plugs. Ground the hightension leads. Pull the starter rope out untilit is fully extended. Now, allow the rope toretract just a little, until the knot end onthe spool is facing the port side of theengine. Lift the pinion gear to engage theflywheel ring gear. Hold the pinion gear

9-12 HAND STARTERS

engaged with the ring gear, and at the sametime, slide the handles of a pair of pliersunder the pinion gear to lock the pinion gearwith the ring gear, as shown.

2- Remove the handle from the end ofthe starter rope. OBSERVE how the rope iswound onto the spool and how the rope issecured by a knot. Pull the knot and therope from the spool.

INSTALLA TION

Rope Purchase InstructionsThe length and diameter of the starter

rope required will vary depending on thesize horsepower engine being serviced.Therefore, check the Hand Starter RopeSpecifications in the Appendix, and thenpurchase a quality nylon piece of the properlength and diam eter size. Only with theproper rope, will you be assured of efficientoperation following installation.

Each end of the nylon rope should be"fused" by burning them slightly with a verysmall flame (a match flame will do) to meltthe fibers together. After the end fibershave been "fused" and while they are stillhot, use a piece of cloth as protection andpull the end out flat to prevent a "glob"from forming.

3- Tie a figure 8 knot in one end of thenew rope. Feed the rope through the spoolanchor around the back of the spool and outthe hole in the cowling. Install the handleon the the end of the rope.

4- Pull and hold tension on the rope, andat the same time remove the pliers fromunder the pinion gear. Allow the starterrope to rewind in a normal manner. Afterthe rope is fully wound onto the starterspool, the rope handle should be up tight

against the engine cowling. If the handle isnot up tight, the rope was installed to long or the starter spring is weak and should bereplaced.

AUTHOR'S WORDThe engine exhaust shroud has been re-

moved only for photographic clarity in theaccompanying illustrations.

STARTER REMOVAL

1- Pull the starter rope out until it isfully extended. Now, allow the rope toretract just a little, until the knot end onthe spool is facing the port side of theengine. Lift the pinion gear to engage theflywheel ring gear. Hold the pinion gearengaged with the ring gear, and at the same

time, slide the handles of a pair of pliersunder the pinion gear to lock the pinion gearwith the ring gear, as shown.

2- Remove the handle from the end ofthe starter rope. OBSERVE how the rope iswound onto the spool and how the rope issecured by a knot. Pull the knot and therope f rom the spool.

3- Grasp the spool firmly and removethe pliers from under the pinion gear. Now,allow the spool to slip a little at a time untilthe spring is completely unwound.

4- Remove the two retaining bolts ontop of the starter. Lift the starter assemblyfrom the power head.

OBSERVEAs the starter is removed, take special

note of how the upper bearing retainer ex-tends over a hole in the powerhead. Thishole is a water passage. A gasket is instal-led under the retainer to form a seal for thewater passage. This gasket may remain on


the block or come with the starter retaineras the starter is removed. To ensure a goodseal, the gasket should be discarded andreplaced with a new one at time of installa-tion.

5- Remove the roll pin extendingthrough the pinion gear.

6- Remove the pinion gear, spring andbearing head from the spool.

7- Pull the main spring and upper springretainer from the spool.

9-14 HAND STARTERS

8- Notice the cap on the bottom of thespool secured with a set screw. Remove theset screw from the cap, and then pull thecap and bushing from the spring.

9- Remove the spring retainer and outerbearing from the spring.


Wash all parts in solvent, and then blowthem dry with compressed air.

Inspect the main spring. Check the tabon the bottom end of the inner spring to besure it is not bent or cracked.

Inspect the teeth of the pinion gear. Theteeth will show some signs of normal wear.A broken tooth or excessive wear on oneside of the teeth is justification for replace-ment.

Inspect the groove through the piniongear. This is the groove to accommodatethe roll pin. Check to be sure the upperpart of the pinion gear is not cracked ordistorted.

DO NOT lubricate the pinion gear,spring, or spool. Oil applied to these partswill attract dirt causing the gear to bind onthe spool. Lubricate the upper and lowerspool bearing surfaces with just a drop ofoutboard lubricant. Apply outboard oil tothe spring on the pinion gear. DO NOT oilthe pinion gear bearing or the surfaces ofthe spring.

Check the rope condition. If the rope isfrayed or shows any sign of weakness, itshould be replaced. There will never be aneasier time to replace the rope than whilethe starter is disassembled.

ASSEMBLING

1- Place the outer bearing, spring re-tainer, bushing and lower spring retaineronto the main spring in the order given.Guide the tab on the outer spring throughthe hole in the lower spring retainer.

2- Install the set screw securing theinner spring to the lower retainer. Set thecompleted spring assembly aside.

3- Slide the outer bearing down over theouter spring, as shown. Insert the springretainer through the center of the innerspring from the TOP.

Pinion gear from a hand starter. Notice the crackon the top side, indicated by the callout. This unit mustbe replaced.

4- Rotate the inner spring until the"hook" on the end of the spring seats in thegroove of the spring retainer.

5- Insert the assembled springs and re-tainer from Step 4, into the bottom of the spool.

6- Install the bearing head, spring, andpinion gear down over the spool shaft.

7- Align the hole in the upper springretainer with the hole in the starter spooland with the slot in the pinion gear.

INSTALLA TION

AUTHOR'S WORDFor the following illustrations, the en-

gine exhaust shroud was removed, only forphotographic clarity.

8- Cover both sides of a NEW gasketwith Perfect Seal No.4, and then place thegasket in position on the powerhead over thewater passage.


9-16 HAND STARTERS

9- Lower the spool assembly down intoplace on the side of the engine with thelower spring retainer indexed over the pin inthe bottom portion of the housing.

10- Install the two bolts securing thebearing head to the power head.


rope required will vary depending on thesize horsepower engine being serviced.Therefore, check the Hand Starter RopeSpecifications in the Appendix, and thenpurchase a quality nylon piece of the proper length and diameter size. Only with theproper rope, will you be assured of efficientoperation following installation.


11- Insert a large screwdriver blade intothe top of the spool, and then rotate thespool COUNTERCLOCKWISE, by count, 20-1/2 complete turns. After the requirednumbers of turns have been made, hold

pressure on the screwdriver, and at thesame time lift the pinion gear to engagewith the flywheel ring gear, and insert thehandles of a pair of pliers under the piniongear to hold the gear engaged.

12- Tie a figure 8 knot in one end of thenew rope. Feed the rope through the spoolanchor around the back of the spool and out the hole in the cowling. Install the handleon the the end of the rope.

13- Pull and hold tension on the rope,and at the same time remove the pliersfrom under the pinion gear. Allow thestarter rope to rewind in a normal manner.After the rope is fully wound onto thestarter spool, the rope handle should be uptight against the engine cowling. If thehandle is not up tight, the rope was installedtoo long or the starter spring is weak andshould be replaced.

9-4 TYPE n STARTER COIL SPRING WITH SWING ARMDRIVE GEAR3 HP 19684 HP 1969-70

This type hand starter is a flat typemounted on the port side of the engine. Asthe rope is pulled, a swing arm moves thedrive gear upward to engage with the teethof the flywheel ring gear. A coil springwinds and tightens as the rope unwinds. Thespring then coils the rope around a pulley asthe rope handle is returned to the front ofthe engine cowling.

The coil spring consists of a lengthypiece of spring steel (approximately 12-feet)tightly wound inside a housing (the cup andstop assembly). Movement of the drive gearto the retracted position is accomplishedthrough a second spring.

SWING ARM DRIVE GEAR 9-17

The starter must be disassembled to re-place the rope.

WARNINGThe rewind spring is under tremendous

tension and is a potential hazard. There-fore, SAFETY GLASSES should be worn andextrem e CARE exercised to follow the pro-cedures carefully during disassembling andasembling work with the starter.

SAFETY WORDSWork on the starter can be very danger-

ous. Because approximately 12-feet ofspring steel is tightly wound into about a 4-inch housing, the spring is placed under tre-mendous tension -- a real tiger in a cage. Ifthe spring should accidently be released,severe personal injury could result frombeing struck by the spring with force.Therefore, the service instructions MUST,and we say again MUST, be followed closelyto prevent release of the spring at thewrong time. Such action would be a BADSCENE, a very BAD SCENE, because ser iouspersonal injury could result.

The starter rope should NEVER be re-leased from the extended position. Suchaction would allow the spring to wind withincredible speed resulting in serious damageto the starter mechanism.

REMOVAL

1- Remove the spark plugs and groundthe high tension leads. Pull the starter ropeout, and then tie a knot in the rope behindthe handle. Allow the rope to rewind untilthe knot is against the engine cowling. Un-tie the knot in the end of the rope, and thenremove the handle and the rubber bumper.

9-18 HAND STARTERS

2- Remove the knot tied in the rope inStep 1. Allow the rope to SLOWLY windinto the starter. Before the rope end passesthe cowling, firmly grasp the starter pulley,and then allow the starter to unwind.

3- Observe the back side of the starter.Notice the hook of the starter springprotruding out of a hole in the starter.Grasp the spring hook with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and then pull the spring out asfar as possible, to relieve tension on thespring.

4- Remove the 3/8" bolt from the brac-ket between the starter and the exhausthousing.

5- Hold the starter together with onehand, and at the same time LOOSEN thelarge bolt from the center of the starter.DO NOT remove this bolt at this time.Remove the starter from the engine.

6- If the starter is only removed in orderto accomplish other work, install a 3/8" x 16nut onto the far side of the thru-bolt to holdthe starter together and prevent the spring from escaping.

DISASSEMBLING

7- Remove the idler gear arm, idlergear, and the idler gear arm spring.

SAFETY WORDS The next step could be dangerous. Re-

moving the pulley from the cup MUST bedone with care to prevent personal injury.

8- Lift the pulley SLIGHTLY and thenuse a screwdriver and work the spring freeof the pulley. DO NOT allow the spring tobe released from the cup. After the pulleyhas been removed, notice the position of thespring loop. Remove the rope from thepulley. Notice how the rope unwinds fromt he pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

9- Remove the bushings from the idlergear arm. A bushing is installed on eachside of the pulley.

10- Two different methods aresuggested to remove the spring from thestarter cup. One method involves pullingcontinuously on the end of the spring thatcontains the loop. The second method is tosimply toss the cup a safe distance ontocarpeting or a lawn, allowing the spring tobe released instantly from the cup.

If this second method is used, be sure thespring will not cause a threat to any individ-ual in the area when it is released.


9-20 HAND STARTERS


Wash all parts except the rope in solventand then blow them dry with compressedair.

Remove any trace of corrosion and wipeall metal parts with an oil dampened cloth.

Inspect the starter spring end loops. Re-place the spring if it is weak, corroded orcracked.

Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if itappears to be weak or frayed. If the rope isfrayed, check the hole through which therope passes for rough edges or burrs. Re-move the rough edges or burrs with a file,and polish the surface until it is smooth.

Inspect the dog ears of the pulley gearsto be sure they are not worn and are free ofburrs. Check the idler gear for cracks andmissing teeth

ASSEMBLING

Rope Purchase InstructionsThe length and diam eter of the starter

rope required will vary depending on thesize horsepower engine being serviced.Therefore, check the Hand Starter RopeSpecifications in the Appendix, and thenpurchase a quality nylon piece of the properlength and diameter size. Only with theproper rope, will you be assured of efficientoperation following installation.

Each end of the nylon rope should be"fused" by burning them slightly with a very

small flame (a match flame will do) to meltthe fibers together. After the end fibershave been "fused" and while they are stillhot, use a piece of cloth as protection andpull the end out flat to prevent a "glob"from forming.

1- Tie a figure 8 knot in one end of therope.

2- Feed the other end of the ropethrough the pulley hole, and then pull therope tight until the knot is seated in thepulley.

3- Wind the rope CLOCKWISE aroundthe pulley. Use a piece of masking tape or arubber band to hold the rope in place in thepulley.

4- Coat the bushings with a light film ofOMC Type A lubricant. Insert one bushingin the pulley and the other bushing in theidler gear arm.

5- If the spring was NOT removed fromthe cup, lower the pulley down over thespring and insert the end of the spring intothe spring anchor post of the pulley. If thespring WAS removed from the cup, hook theend of the spring into the pulley and thenallow the spring to come out the slot in thecup. Turn the pulley and wind the springinto the cup until about 1/2 of the springlength has been wound. Hold the gear andallow it to back off slowly. DO NOT allowthe spring to rewind quickly. The remainderof the spring will be installed later.

6- Assemble the idler gear with theshoulder against the idler gear arm. Installthe idler gear arm and spring to the pulleyand cup with the stop on the elder gearshaft located between the upper stop andthe lower stop on the cup and stop assembly,as shown.

7- Hold the assembly together and in-stall the assembly onto the engine. Threadthe shoulder screw into place first. Thisscrew will hold the starter assembly togeth-er.

Housing (right) with the spring properly installed andthe spring end bent toward the center. The pin in thepulley (left) must index into the loop on the spring endduring installation.


9-22 HAND STARTERS

8- Install the screw through the idlerarm and into the exhaust manifold. DO NOTtighten this screw at this time. Apply alight coating of OMC Type A lubricant tothe portion of the spring extending out ofthe starter.

SPECIAL WORDSSpecial tools are available to lock-in the

starter to the flywheel. However, the toolsare usually not available; they are expen-sive; and professional mechanics have devel-oped an alternate method. The procedurewill take time and patience, but it is theonly way without the special tools. To workwithout the special tools proceed as follows:

9- Remove the rubber band or the mask-ing tape from the coiled rope. Workingfrom the back side of the engine, pull on therope and the idler gear will engage with theflywheel ring gear. Continue to pull therope, and at the same time, work the spring

down into the cup. If the rope becomesfully extended, before the spring is installedinto the cup, allow the rope to rewind ontothe pulley as far as possible and then windthe rope around the pulley again. Now, pullon the rope again from the back side of theengine, and continue to work the spring intothe cup until it is completely installed

10- Ease back on the rope until there isno spring tension on the starter. Thread therope into the pulley CLOCKWISE around thestarter. Two, or possibly more, loops maybe required to accomplish the task. Use allof the rope in the pulley with the starter inthe relaxed position. After all of the ropehas been fed into the pulley, grab the end ofthe rope in front of the starter and pull it

out, then feed it through the cowling at thefront of the engine. Continue to pull therope until about two feet is extending outthrough the cowling. Tie a slip knot in therope.

11- Install the rubber bumper and handleonto the rope. Tie a figure 8 knot in the endof the rope, and then pull the knot into thehandle.

12- Untie the slip knot and ease the ropeback into the starter. The starter handlemust be up tight against the cowling whenthe rope is completely rewound on thestarter pulley. If the rope is not tightagainst the cowling, remove the knot andhandle from the rope, and then wind therope around the pulley one complete turn.Tie another knot in the end of the rope asdescribed earlier in this step and then checkto be sure the handle is tight against thecowling when the rope is wound onto thepulley.

Starter Adjustment 13- Hold the idler gear arm stop against

the cup stop. Fully engage the idler gearteeth with the teeth in the flywheel ringgear. Tighten the cup and stop assemblyscrew. Tighten the shoulder screw accord-ing to the specification listed in the Appen-dix.

ATOP FLYWHEEL WITH SPRINGS 9-23

9-5 TYPE In MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEELMODEL WITH RETURN SPRINGS28 HP 1962-6330 HP 195635 HP 1957-5940 HP 1960-63

This type starter is installed as originalequipment by the manufacturer. However,if the starter pulley was damaged sometimein the past, and the hub replaced, the re-placement kit would contain parts modifyingthe unit. The most noticeable change is theabsence of the pawl return springs. Thestarter unit must then be serviced accordingto the procedures outlined in the next sec-tion -- 9-6.

Therefore, if the starter unit has notbeen modified, still has the pawl returnsprings, follow the procedures in this sec-tion. If the unit has been modified, no pawlreturn springs, follow the steps in the nextsection.

The starter rope should NEVER be re-leased from the extended position. Suchaction would allow the spring to wind withincredible speed, resulting in serious damageto the starter mechanism.

Any time the rope is broken, the starterspring will rewind with incredible speed.Such action will cause the spring to rewindpast its normal travel and the end of thespring will be bent back out of shape.Therefore, if the rope has been broken, thestarter must be completely disassembledand the spring repaired or replaced.

9-24 HAND STARTERS

STARTER REMOVAL

1- Disconnect any linkage between thehand starter and the carburetor. Removethe compression release linkage between thestarter and the engine head. Move thelinkage out of the way. Remove the starterleg retaining screws, and then lift thecomplete starter from the engine.

2- Pull the rope out far enough to tie aknot in the rope. Allow the rope to rewindto the knot. Work the rope anchor out ofthe rubber covered handle, then remove therope f rom the anchor. Remove the handlefrom the rope. Untie the knot in the rope, .and then hold the disc pulley, but permit itto turn and thus allow the rope to wind backonto the pulley SLOWLY. Continue to allowthe spring in the pulley to unwind SLOWLYuntil all tension has been released.

3- Remove the center bolt nut from thetop side of the starter. Some models do nothave a center bolt nut. On other models,the nut may have vibrated loose, but if thecenter bolt has threads showing, a nut MUSTbe installed during assembling.

4- Lay the starter on its back on a worksurface. Remove the three screws securingthe pawl retainers to the pulley. Removethe three pawl springs, as shown. In theillustration, two springs have already beenremoved and the third is being removed.

5- Remove the three pawls from theirretainers. Remove the center screw fromthe hub. Hold the pulley, and at the samet irrie , lift the spindle and pin assembly, thenthe equalizer cup, and friction spring, fromthe pulley.

WARNINGThe rewind spring is a potential hazard.

The spring is under tremendous tension whenit is wound -- a real tiger in a cage. If thespring should accidently be released, severepersonal injury could result from beingstruck by the spring with force. Therefore,the following step MUST be performed withcare to prevent personal injury to self andothers in the area. If the spring should beaccidently released at the wrong t ime, suchaction would be a BAD SCENE, a very BADSCENE, because serious personal injurycould result.

6- Lift the pulley straight up and at thesame time work the spring free of the


pulley. The spring has a small loop hookedinto the pulley.

7- An alternate and safe method is tohold the pulley and the housing togethertightly with the legs extending downward inthe normal direction. Now, lower the com-plete assembly to the floor. When the legs

9-26 HAND STARTERS

make contact with the floor, release thegrip on the pulley. The pulley will fall andthe spring will be released from the housing,but the three legs will contain the springand prevent it from traveling across theroom. If the spring was not released fromthe housing, the only safe method is to jarthe three legs on the floor again to releasethe spring. Unwind the rope out of the pulleygroove, and then pull it free.


If the rope was broken and the spring isbent backward, as shown in the accompany-ing illustration, it is a simple matter to bendthe spring end back to its normal position.The next illustration clearly shows a spring end properly positioned in the housing.



Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if itappears to be weak or frayed. If the rope is

The rope on this unit broke, causing the spring torewind with incredible speed. The end of the spring wasbent back in the wrong direction.

New pawl return springs ready for installation. Aused spring should appear much the same for satisfac-tory service.

frayed, check the hole through which therope passes for rough edges or burrs. Re-move the rough edges or burrs with a file,and polish the surface until it is smooth.

Inspect the starter spring end loops. Re-place the spring if is is weak, corroded orcracked. Check the spring pin located atthe back side of the pulley to be sure it isstraight and solid.

Check the inside surface of the housingand remove any burrs.

Check the condition of the pawl springsto be sure they are not stretched out ofshape. The end of each spring should bebent back toward the coil of the spring.Inspect the pawIs for wear and that the edges are not rounded.

Inspect the hub center locating pin to besure it is straight and tight.

A new spring as it appears direct from the marinestore. The hog rings must be CAREFULLY removed, asdescribed in the text.

STAR TER ASSEMBLING

GOOD WORDSThe accompanying illustration shows a

new starter spring as it is purchased. Notehow the spring is held wound with "hogrings". The spring MUST be released to itsfull extended position before it can be in-stalled. Therefore, use care and remove the"hog rings" and allow the spring to unwinduntil it is a straight piece of spring steel.

SAFETY WORDWear a good pair of gloves while unwind-

ing and installing the spring. The spring willdevelop tension and the edges of the springsteel are sharp. The gloves will preventcuts on your hands and fingers.

A safe method involves one person re-moving the hog rings while an assistantholds the spring. After the rings have beenremoved, both persons work to unwrap thespring, one coil at-a-time.

1- Slide the spring onto the outer pinand then start the spring from the outsideedge of the housing and insert it into thehousing COUNTERCLOCKWISE, as shown inthe accompanying illustration. Notice thesmall hump in the housing. This humpprevents the spring from being wound in thewrong direction. Work the first turn intothe housing, and then hold the spring downwith one hand and continue to wind the


spring into the housing. Patience and timeare required to work the spring completelyinto the housing. After the last portion is inplace, bend the end of the spring towardsthe center of the housing. This position willallow the pulley pin to align with the loop inthe end of the spring, when the pulley isinstalled.

2- Lower the pulley down over the topof the spring with the pulley pin indexinginto the loop in the end of the spring. In theaccompanying illustration, notice the call-out for the boss on the backside of thepulley. The pin is located directly under theboss. The boss can, therefore, be a guideduring pulley installation.

TAKE NOTEObserve closely the accompanying illus-

tration for this step. Notice how the springis on the inside diameter of the spindle andspring assembly and the friction spring iswound down on the shoulder of the spindle.During assembling the spring MUST remaindown on the spindle shoulder. Also noticethe pin protruding from the bottom of thespindle. This pin MUST drop into the hole inthe starter housing. Observe into the hous-ing and visually locate this hole.

9-28 HAND STARTERS

A spring properly installed and seated on the spindleshoulder.

3- Slide the equalizer cup onto thespindle. Work the spring around the outsidediameter of the spindle. Lower the spindleassembly down through the pulley and indexthe pin into the hole in the housing. At-tempt to rotate the large pulley. The pulleyshould turn freely if the spindle has beeninstalled properly. Place the washer insidethe spindle housing and then install the boltthrough the washer into the housing.Tighten the bolt securely.

Housing (left) with the spring properly installed andthe spring end bent toward the center. The pin in thepulley (right) must index into the loop on the spring endduring installation.

4- Turn the starter over and install theretaining nut onto the thru-bolt (if a nut isused). Tighten the nut securely. Check tobe sure the pulley will rotate smoothly anddoes not bind on the spindle. If the springon the spindle was allowed to slip out ofplace on the shoulder, then the spindle mustbe removed, the spring properly positioned

on the shoulder and the spindle installedagain. Rotate the pulley slightly COUNT-ERcLocKwIsE and then release it to besure there is proper engagement with thespr ing and the pulley has good springtension.

5- Install the three pawls onto the threepins with the end of the pawls indexed in thethree cutouts of the equalizer cup. Connectthe three pawl springs to the equalizer cup.

6- Install the three retainers over thetop of the pawls, and then secure them inplace with the retaining screws.

ROPE INSTALLATION



Each end of the nylon rope should be"fused" by burning them slightly with a verysmall flame (a match flame will do) to melt


the fibers together. After the end fibershave been "fused" and while they are still hot, use a piece of cloth as protection andpull the end out flat to prevent a "glob"from forming.

7- Tie a figure 8 knot in one end of thestarter rope. Set the rope aside, by handy, tobe picked up with one hand.

8- Hold the housing with one hand androtate the pulley three complete turnsCOUNTERCLOCKWISEwith the other hand.

9-30 HAND STARTERS

After three complete turns have been made,align the rope outlet in the pulley with theoutlet in the housing. Insert a drift pin orother suitable tool through the hole in thepulley and the hole in the housing to holdthe pulley in the desired position. Pick upthe rope and feed the end through the pulleyand the housing and out the other side of thehousing. Pull the rope tight until the knot is seated against the pulley.

9- A special tool is manufactured byOMC to install the handle onto the rope.This tool has three prongs and is insertedthrough the handle and then attached to therope and pulled back through the handle. Ifthe special tool is not available take a stiffpiece of wire; insert it through the handle;thread it through the rope; apply just a littleoil to the rope; then pull the wire and ropethrough the handle.

10- Work the end of the rope into thehandle anchor. Secure the rope in place bypushing the anchor into the rubber handle.

11- Lightly pull on the rope to relievetension on the pin installed through the

®pulley and housing in Step 8. Maintain sometension on the rope, remove the pin, andallow the spring to SLOWLY wind the ropeonto the pulley. Check the bolt through thespindle to be sure it is tight.

12- Lay the starter on its back and pullthe rope with quick movements, and at thesame time check the pawls to be sure theymove towards the center of the pulley.Release the rope slowly and check to besure the pawls return to their original posi-tion under the retainers.

STARTER INSTALLATION

13- Position the starter over the fly-wheel with the three legs aligned over theholes in the power head for the retaining

ATOP FLYWHEEL NO RETURN SPRINGS 9-31

bolts. Install the retaining bolts and tightenthem securely. Connect the linkage fromthe carburetor and the compression release.

9-6 TYPE III MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEELMODEL WITH NO RETURN SPRINGS28 HP 196433 HP 1965-7040 HP 1964-70

WARNINGAs with other types of hand starters, the

rewind spring is a potential hazard. Thespring is under tremendous tension when itis wound -- a real tiger in a cage. If thespring should accidentally be released, se-vere personal injury could result from beingstruck by the spring with force. Therefore,the service instructions MUST, and we sayagain MUST, be followed closely to preventrelease of the spring at the wrong time.Such action would be a BAD SCENE, a veryBAD SCENE, because serious personal injurycould result.


Any time the rope is broken, the starterspring will rewind with incredible speed.Such action will cause the spring to rewindpast its normal travel and the end of thespring will be bent back out of shape.Therefore, if the rope has been broken, thestarter should be completely disassembledand the spring repaired or replaced.

9-32 HAND STARTERS

STARTER REMOVAL

1- Disconnect any linkage between thestarter and the carburetor. Move the link-age out of the way. Remove the starterleg retaining screws, and then lift the com-plete starter from the engine.

2- Pull the rope out far enough, and thentie a knot in the rope. Allow the rope torewind to the knot. Work the rope anchorout of the rubber covered handle, then re-move the rope from the anchor. Removethe handle from the rope. Untie the knot inthe rope, and then hold the disc pulley, but

permit it to turn and thus allow the rope towind back onto the pulley SLOWLY. Contin-ue to allow the spring in the pulley tounwind SLOWLY until all tension has beenreleased.

3- Remove the center bolt nut from thetop side of the starter. Some models do nothave a center bolt nut. On other models,the nut may have vibrated loose, but if thecenter bolt has threads showing, a nut MUSTbe installed during assembling.

4- Lay the starter on its back on a worksurface. Remove the three screws securingthe pawl retainers to the pulley.

5- Remove the three pawls from theirretainers.

6- Remove the center screw from thehub.

7- Hold the pulley, and at the sametime, remove the spindle, the wavy washer,friction ring, and the nylon bushing from thecenter of the pulley.


WARNINGThe rewind spring is a potential hazard.

The spring is under tremendous tension whenit is wound -- a real tiger in a cage. If thespring should accidentally be released, se-vere personal injury could result from beingstruck by the spring with force. Therefore,the following step MUST be performed withcare to prevent personal injury to self andothers in the area. If the spring should beaccidently released at the wrong time, suchaction would be a BAD SCENE, a very BADSCENE, because serious personal injurycould result.

8- Lift the pulley straight up and at thesame time work the spring free of thepulley. The spring has a small loop hookedinto the pulley.

9- An alternate and safe method is tohold the pulley and the housing togethertightly and turn the complete assembly sothe legs are facing downward. Now, lowerthe complete assembly to the floor. Whenthe legs make contact with the floor,release the grip on the pulley. The pulley

9-34 HAND STARTERS

will fall and the spring will be released fromthe housing, but the three legs will containthe spring and prevent it from travelingacross the room. If the spring was notreleased from the housing, the only safemethod is to jar the three legs on the floorto release the spring. Unwind the rope outof the pulley groove, and then pull it free.


If the rope was broken and the spring isbent backward, as shown in the accompany-ing illustration, it is a simple matter to bendthe spring end back to its normal position.The next illustration clearly shows a springend properly positioned in the housing.



Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if itappears to be weak or frayed. If the rope isfrayed, check the hole through which the rope passes for rough edges or burrs. Re-move the rough edges or burrs with a file,and polish the surface until it is smooth.

The rope on this unit broke, causing the spring torewind with incredible speed. The end of the spring wasbent back in the wrong direction.

Inspect the starter spring end loops. Re-place the spring if it is weak, corroded or cracked. Check the spring pin located atthe back side of the pulley to be sure it isstraight and solid.


Check the condition of the pawl springsto be sure they are not stretched out ofshape. The end of each spring should bebent back toward the coil of the spring.Inspect the pawls for wear and that theedges are not rounded.

Inspect the hub center locating pin to besure it is straight and tight.

STARTER ASSEMBLING

GOOD WORDSThe accompanying illustration shows a

new starter spring as it is purchased. Notehow the spring is held wound with "hogrings". The spring MUST be released to itsfull extended position before it can be in-stalled. Therefore, use care and remove the"hog rings" and allow the spring to unwinduntil it is a straight piece of spring steel.

SAFETY WORDWear a good pair of gloves while unwind-

ing and installing the spring. The spring willdevelop tension and the edges of the spr ingsteel are sharp. The gloves will preventcuts on your hands and fingers.

A new spring as it appears direct from the marinestore. The hog rings must be CAREFULLY removed, asdescribed in the text.


A safe method is for one person toremove the hog rings while an assistantholds the spring. After the rings have beenremoved, both persons work to unwrap thespring, one coil at-a-time.

1- Slide the spring onto the outer pinand then start the spring from the outsideedge of the housing and insert it into thehousing COUNTERCLOCKWISE, as shown inthe accompanying illustration. Notice thesmall hump in the housing. This humpprevents the spring from being wound in thewrong direction. Work the first turn intothe housing, and then hold the spring downwith one hand and continue to wind thespring into the housing. Patience and timeare required to work the spring completelyinto the housing. After the last portion is inplace, bend the end of the spring towardsthe center of the housing. This position willallow the pulley pin to align with the loop inthe end of the spring, when the pulley isinstalled.

2- Lower the pulley down over the topof the spring with the pulley pin indexing into the loop in the end of the spring. In theaccompanying illustration, notice the call-out for the boss on the backside of thepulley. The pin is located directly under theboss. The boss can, therefore, be a guideduring pulley installation.

3- Coat the spindle with a thin film ofOMC Type A lubricant. Place the wavywasher onto the spindle.

4- Slide the friction ring onto thespindle with the flats in the washer indexedwith the flats on the spindle.

Housing (left) with the spring properly installed andthe spring end bent toward the center. The pin in thepulley (right) must index into the loop on the spring endduring installation.

9-36 HAND STARTERS

5- Install the nylon bushing onto thespindle with the protrusions on the bushingindexed into the slots in the spindle. Noticethe pin protruding from the bottom of thespindle. This pin MUST drop into the hole inthe starter housing. Observe into thehousing and visually locate this hole.

6- Lower the spindle assembly downthrough pulley and index the pin into thehole in the housing.

7- Place the washer inside the spindlehousing and then install the bolt through thewasher into the housing. Tighten the boltsecurely.

8- Install the three pawls into theirretainers with the tip of each pawl layingover the top of the nylon bushing.

9- Install the retainers securing thepawls to the pulley.

10- Turn the starter over and install theretaining nut onto the thru-bolt (if a nut isused). Tighten the nut securely. Check to besure the pulley will rotate smoothly anddoes not bind on the spindle. Rotate the


pulley slightly COUNTERCLOCKWISE, thenrelease it to be sure the spring is properly engaged with the pulley and that the pulleyhas good spring tension.

ROPE INSTALLATION



Each end of the nylon rope should be"fused" by burning them slightly with a verysmall flame (a match flame will do) to meltthe fibers together. After the end fibershave been "fused" and while they are stillhot, use a piece of doth as protection andpull the end out flat to prevent a "glob"from forming.

11- Tie a figure g knot in one end of therope. Settheropeaside, but handy, to be pickedup with one hand.

12- Hold the housing with one hand androtate the pulley three complete turnsCOUNTERCLOCKWISE with the other hand.After three complete turns have been made,align the rope outlet in the pulley with theoutlet in the housing. Insert a drift pin orother sui table tool through the hole in thepulley and the hole in the housing to hold the pulley in the desired position. Feed thethe rope through the pulley and the housing

and out the other side of the housing. Pullthe rope tight until the knot is seatedagainst the pulley.

13- A special tool is manufactured byOMC to install the handle onto the rope.This tool has three prongs and is insertedthrough the handle and then attached to therope and pulled back through the handle. If

9-38 HAND STARTERS

the special tool is not available take a stiffpiece of wire; insert it through the handle;thread it through the rope; apply just a littleoil to the rope; then pull the wire and ropethrough the handle.

14- Work the end of the rope into thehandle anchor. Secure the rope in place bypushing the anchor into the rubber handle.

15- Lightly pull on the rope to relievetension on the pin installed through thepulley and housing in Step 12. Maintainsome tension on the rope, remove the pin,and allow the spring to SLOWLY wind therope onto the pulley. Check the boltthrough the spindle to be sure it is tight.

16- Lay the starter on its back and pullthe rope with quick movements, and at thesame time check the pawls to be sure theymove towards the center of the pulley.Release the rope slowly and check to be sure the pawls return to their original posi-tion under the retainers.


17- Position the starter over the fly-wheel with the three legs aligned over theholes in the powerhead for the retainingbol ts. Install t he retaining bol ts and tightenthem securely. Connect the linkage fromthe carburetor.

9-7 TYPE III MOUNTED ATOP FLYWHEELMODEL WITH ONE NYLON PAWL3 HP 1956-685.5 HP 1956-647.5 HP 1956-5810 HP 1956-6315 HP 195618 HP 1956-7020 HP 1966-7025 HP 1969-70

WARNINGAs with other types of hand starters, the

rewind spring is a potential hazard. Thespring is under tremendous tension when itis wound -- a real tiger in a cage. If thespring should accidentally be released,severe personal injury could result frombeing struck by the spring with force.Therefore, the service instructions MUST,and we say again MUST, be followed closelyto prevent release of the spring at the

ATOP FLYWHEEL WITH NYLON PAWL 9-39

wrong time. Such action would be aBAD SCENE, a very BAD SCENE, becauseser ious personal injury could result.


Any time the rope is broken, the starterspring will rewind with incredible speed.Such action will cause the spring to rewindpast its normal travel and the end of thespring will be bent back out of shape.Therefore, if the rope has been broken, thestarter must be completely disassembledand the spring repaired or replaced.

Hand Starter TimingSurprising as it may sound, this starter,

mounted on top of the engine over theflywheel, can actually timed to the engine.This timing can best be descr ibed by usingan example.

If two marks were made on the flywheel1800 apart, and matching marks made onthe engine, then each time the engine wasshut down, one set of marks on the flywheelwould align very closely with one of the

Closeup view of the pulley and the housing with thearrow on the housing aligned with the marks on thepulley. This alignment is necessary to "timetl thestarter with the engine.

9-40 HAND STARTERS

marks on the engine. What is actuallyhappening, is the engine is stopping witheither the top piston at TOC (top deadcenter) or the bottom piston at the TOCposition.

Now, assume the engine has been operat-ing at idle speed and then suddenly stops forany number of reasons. The problem iscorrected and the engine is once againready to be started. Two notches are manu-factured into the inside diameter of theflywheel. A single dog on the pulley engag-es with one of these dogs when the rope ispulled. Now, if it is necessary to pull anexcessive amount of rope before the dog isable to engage the flywheel, full startingrotation power would not be available in therope.

Therefore, the starter is timed to engage the starter with the flywheel after the ropehas been pulled exactly the same amount each time. This distance is very short toallow as much rope pull as possible to rotatethe crankshaft for fast start. This "timing"will assure an adequate amount available forstarting AND that one of the pistons willreturn to TOC when the pull is completed, ifthe engine fails to start. If an excessiveamount of pull is necessary before the fly-wheel begins to rotate, the starter was notassembled properly -- the arrow on thepulley was not aligned with the two markson the starter housing when the spring isrelaxed and the rope handle is retracted.

The starter rope on this engine has been pulled muchtQO far before the flywheel begins to rotate. Thisstarter is, therefore, not timed properly with the en-gine, as described in the text.

STARTER REMOVAL

1- Remove the attaching bolts securingthe three legs of the starter housing to thepower head. On some smaller horsepowerengines, the starter housing is attached tothe fuel tank with screws. Remove the handstarter and lay it on the bench with thepulley facing toward you.

DISASSEMBLING

2- Pull the rope out enough to tie a knotin the rope. Tie a knot, and then allow therope to rewind to the knot. Work the ropeanchor out of the rubber covered handle,then remove the rope from the anchor.Remove the handle from the rope. Untie

Starter installed atop the flywheel in the center ofthe fuel tank.

the knot in the rope, and then hold the discpulley, but permit it to turn and thus allowthe rope to wind back onto the pulleySLOWLY. Continue to allow the spring inthe pulley to unwind SLOWLY until all ten-sion has been released.

3- Remove the E-clip from the nylonpawl. Lift the pawl from the stud.

4- Remove the friction spring andfriction link from the pawl.

5- Remove the bolt, lockwasher, andwasher from the center of the pulley spin-dle. Lift the spindle out of the pulley, and


at the same time hold the pulley firmlytogether with the housing.

6- Lift the pulley straight up and at thesame time work the spring free of thepulley. The spring has a small loop hookedinto the pulley. An alternate and safemethod is to hold the pulley and the housingtogether tightly and turn the complete as-sembly with the legs extending downward inthe normal manner. Now, lower the com-plete assembly to the floor. When the legs

9-42 HAND STARTERS

make contact with the floor, release yourgrip. The pulley will fall and the spring willbe released from the housing, but the threelegs will contain the spring and prevent itfrom traveling across the room. If thespring was not released from the housing,the only safe method is to again makecontact with the three legs on the floor and jar the spring free.

1- Unwind the rope out of the pulleygroove. Notice the pin next to the knot inthe rope and how the rope feeds BEHIND thepin. Pull the knot and the rope out farenough to untie the knot, and then pull therope free of the pulley.


If the rope was broken and the spring isbent backward, as shown in the accompany-ing illustration, it is a simple matter to bendthe spring end back to its normal position.The next illustration clearly shows a springend properly positioned in the housing.

Wash all parts except the rope in solventand then blow them dry with compressedair,


Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if itappears to be weak or frayed. If the rope isfrayed, check the hole through which therope passes for rough edges or burrs. Re-move the rough edges or burrs with a file,and polish the surface until it is smooth.

Inspect the starter spring end loops. Re-place the spring if it is weak, corroded orcracked. Check the spring pin located at

the back side of the pulley to be sure it isstraight and solid.


Check the condition of the pawl springto be sure it is not stretched out of shape.

The rope on this W1it broke, causing the spring torewind with incredible speed. The end of the spring wasbent back in the wrong direction.

Damaged pawl unfit for further service.

The end of the spring should be bent backtoward the coil of the spring. Inspect thepaw I for wear and that the edges are notrounded.

Check the friction spring and link to besure they are not distorted.

Inspect the spindle. The spindle must bestraight and tight.

STARTER ASSEMBLING

ROPE INSTALLATION

Rope Purchase InstructionsThe length and diam eter of the starter



Knot tied in the end of the starter rope to preventthe rope from being pulled from the starter.


1- Tie a figure 8 knot in the end of therope. Insert one end of the new ropethrough the hole in the pulley and housingand on the back side of the pin, as shown.Continue to wrap the remainder of the ropeCOUNTERCLOCKWISE around the pulley.

SAFETY WORDWear a good pair of gloves while install-

ing the spring. The spring will developtension and the edges of the spring steel aresharp. The gloves will prevent cuts on yourhands and fingers.

2- Slide the spring onto the outer pinand then start the spring from the outsideedge of the housing and insert it into thehousing COUNTERCLOCKWISE, as shown inthe accompanying illustration. Notice thesmall hump in the housing. This humpprevents the spring from being wound in thewrong direction. Work the first turn intothe housing, and then hold the spring down

9-44 HAND STARTERS

with one hand and continue to wind thespring into the housing. Patience and timeare required to work the spring completelyinto the housing. After the last portion is inplace, bend the end of the spring towardsthe center of the housing. This position willallow the pulley pin to align with the loop inthe end of the spring, when the pulley isinstalled.

Alternate MethodAn al ternate method of installing a NEW

spring into the housing with less risk ofpersonal injury is presented with accompa-nying illustrations.

lA- Remove ONLY the hog ring next tothe end of the outside wrap of the spring.

2A- Pull on the outside end of the spring.As the spring is pulled, the inside diameterwill get smaller and smaller, as shown.When the diameter is a bit smaller than theinside diameter of the starter housing, wrapthe entire free end of the spring around the coiled portion.

3A- CAREFULL Y lower the coiledspring into the starter housing with the loopon the free end of the spring indexed overthe peg in the housing and the spring feedingCOUNTERCLOCKWISE, as shown. Removethe second hog ring WITHOUT allowing thespring to escape from the housing. An easyand safe method is to cut the hog ring witha pair of "dikes". Bend the inside end of thespring toward the center of the housing topermit the pin in the pulley to index into theloop.

2A

3- Lower the pulley down over the topof the spring with the pulley pin indexinginto the loop in the end of the spring. In theaccompanying illustration, notice the call-out for the boss on the backside of thepulley. The pin is located directly under theboss. The boss can, therefore, be a guideduring pulley installation.

4- Lower the spindle assembly downthrough pulley. Place the washer and lock-washer inside the spindle housing and theninstall the bolt through the washer into thehousing. Tighten the bolt securely. Check

to be sure the pulley will rotate smoothlyand does not bind on the spindle. Rotate thepulley slightly COUNTERCLOCKWISE andthen release it to be sure there is properengagement with the spring and the pulleyhas good spring tension.


5- Install the friction spring and link andthe nylon pawl onto the starter hub. Thefriction spring fits into a groove in thespindle. Pull just a little on the pawl andset it over the stud on the flywheel pulley.

6- Snap the E-clip over the top of thepawl to secure it in place.

7- Rotate the pulley three completerevolutions, and then work the rope outthrough the hole in the pulley and the hous-ing. Pull on the rope until a couple of feetare exposed. Tie a knot in the rope andallow the rope to rewind until the knot istight against the housing. Work the end of

9-46 HAND STARTERS

the rope into the handle anchor. Secure therope in place by pushing the anchor into therubber handle.

8- Pull on the rope enough to untie theknot, and then allow the rope to slowlyrecoil into the pulley.

9- Lay the starter on its back with thepulley facing toward you. Notice the im-print on the pulley: ARROW HERE ROPE-RECOILED. Also notice the arrow on thehousing. On Johnson engines, when the ropeis fully coiled (the starter pulley completelywound) the arrow must fall between themarks on the pulley. Further up on thepulley you will notice the letter E (forEvinrude), On the Evinrude engines, thearrow must fall between the two marks onthe pulley. If the arrow is not properlyaligned the starter rope is not the properlength. It is either too long or too short.The arrow must align properly for the start-er to be timed with the engine. See thebeginning of this section.

10- With the starter still on its back,pull the rope with quick movements, and atthe same time check the pawl to be sure itmoves toward the center of the pulley.Release the rope slowly and check to besure the pawl returns to its original position.


11- Position the starter over the fly-wheel with the three legs aligned over theholes in the powerhead for the retainingbolts. Install the retaining bolts and tightenthem securely.

10MAl NTENANCE

10-1 INTRODUCTION

The authors estimate 75% of engine re-pair work can be directly or indirectly at-tributed to lack of proper care for theengine. This is especially true of careduring the off-season period. There is noway on this green earth for a mechanicalengine, particularily an outboard motor, tobe left sitting idle for an extended period oftime, say for six months, and then be readyfor instant satisfactory service.

Imagine, if you will, leaving your auto-mobile for six months, and then expecting toturn the key, have it roar to life, and beable to drive off in the same manner as adaily occurrence.

BOW - FORWARD~

STERN - AFTCommon terminology used throughout the world for

ref erence designation on boats. These are the termsused in this book.

It is critical for an outboard engine to berun at least once a month, preferably, in thewater. At the same time, the shift mecha-nism should be operated through the fullrange several times and the steering operat-ed from hard-over to hard-over.

Only through a regular maintenance pro-gram can the owner expect to receive longlife and satisfactory performance at mini-mum cost.

Many times, if an outboard is not per-forming properly, the owner will "nurse" itthrough the season with good intentions ofworking on the unit once it is no longerbeing used. As with many New Year'sresolutions, the good intentions are notcompleted and the outboard may lie formany months before the work is begun orthe unit is taken to the marine shop forrepair.

Imagine, if you will, the cause of theproblem being a blown head gasket. And let us assume water has found its way into acy linder. This water, allowed to remainover a long period of time, will do consider-ably more damage than it would have if theunit had been disassembled and the repairwork performed immediately. THERE-FORE, if an outboard is not functioningproperly, DO NOT stow it away with promis-es to get at it when you get time, becausethe work and expense will only get worse,the longer corrective action is postponed.In the example of the blown head gasket, arelatively simple and inexpensive repair jobcould very well develop into major overhauland rebuild work.

Outboards On Sail BoatsOwners of sail boats pride themselves in

their ability to use the wind to clear aharbor or for movement from Port A toPort B, or maybe just for a day sail on a

10-2 MAINTENANCE

lake. The outboard is carried only as a lastresort -- in case the wind fails completely,or in an emergency situation.

As a result, the outboard is stowed be-low, usually in a very poorly ventilated area,and subjected to moisture, stale air --inshort, an excellent enviroment for "sweat-ing" and corrosion.

If the dyed-in-the-wool "rag bagger"could just take the time about once everymonth or two, to pull out his outboard, cleanit up, and give it a short run, not only wouldhe have "peace of mind" knowing it WILLstart in an emergency, but also his mainten-ance cost will be drastically reduced.

Chapter CoverageThe material presented in this chapter is

divided into five general areas.1- General information every boat own-

er should know.2- Maintenance tasks that should be per-

formed periodically to keep the boat operat-ing at minimum cost.

3- Care necessary to maintain the ap-pearance of the boat and to give the ownerthat "Pride of Ownership" look.

4- Winter storage practices to minimizedamage during the off-season when the boatis not in use.

5- Preseason preparation work thatshould be performed to ensure satisfactoryperformance the first time it is put inservice.

In nautical terms, the front of the boatis the bow and the direction is forward; therear is the stern and the direction is aft;

Manufacturer's identification plate installed be-tween the transom brackets.

the right side, when facing forward, is thestarboard side; and the left side is the portside. All directional references in this man-ual use this terminology. Therefore, thedirection from which an item is viewed is ofno consequence, because starboard and portNEVER change no matter where the individ-ual is located or in which direction he maybe looking.

10-2 ENGINE SERIAL NUMBERS

The engine serial numbers are the manu-facturer's key to engine changes. Thesenumbers identify the year of manufacture,the qualified horsepower rating, and theparts book identification. If any correspon-dence or parts are required, the enginemodel number MUST be used or proper iden-tification is not possible. The accompanyingillustrations will be very helpful in locatingthe engine identification tag for the variousmodels.

ONE MORE WORDThe model number establishes the year

in which the engine was produced and notneccessarily the year of first installation.

On some model engines, the serial numb-er and model number were stamped on aplate mounted between the two swivel brac-kets underneath the hood.

On other model engines, the plate ismounted on the port side of the engine onthe front or side of the swivel bracket. Thehp and rpm range will also be found on theplate.

Manufacturer's identification plate installed on theport side of the transom bracket.

10-3 FIBERGLASS HULLS

Fiberglass reinforced plastic hulls aretough, durable, and highly resistant to im-pact. However, like any other material theycan be damaged. One of the advantages ofthis type of construction is the relative easewith which it may be repaired. Because ofits break characteristics, and the simpletechniques used in restoration, these hullshave gained popular ity throughout theworld. From the most congested urbanmarina, to isolated lakes in wildernessareas, to the severe cold of far off northernseas, and in sunny tropic remote rivers ofprimitive islands or continents, fiberglassboats can be found performing their dailytask with a minimum of maintenance.

A fiberglass hull has almost no internalstresses. Therefore, when the hull is brokenor stove-in, it retains its true form. It willnot dent to take an out-of-shape set. When

A new fiberglass boat and trailer outfit ready for anowner and a power package.

FIBERGLASS AND ALUMINUM HULLS 10-3

An aluminum boat ready for an engine. The ownerof this type boat will probably carry it atop his vehicleand be saved the expense and trouble of tro.ilering tothe water.

the hull sustains a severe blow, the impactwill be either absorbed by deflection of thelaminated panel or the blow will result in adefinite, localized break. In addition to hulldamage, bulkheads, stringers, and other stif-fening structures attached to the hull, mayalso be affected and therefore, should bechecked. Repairs are usually confined tothe general area of the rupture.

10-4 ALUMINUM HULLS

Aluminum boats have become popular inrecent years because they are so lightweightand may be carried with ease atop an auto-mobile or other vehicle. These aluminumcraft are available in sizes ranging fromsmall 8-foot prams to twin-hulled pontoonhouseboats or swimming "rafts" in excess of30 feet. Naturally, the large units cannotbe carried atop a vehicle.

A boat and outboard used in salt water. Notice themarine growth on the lower unit and the anti-foulingbottom paint on the hull which prevented the marinegrowth.

I.UVn.

Simple drawing to illustrate two types of possibledamage to the hull. Such injury to the boat will affectthe boat's performance and subtract from the owner'senjoyment.

10-4 MAINTENANCE

One of the advantages of an aluminumhull is the easy maintenance program re-quired, and the ability of the material toresist corrosion.

As an added protection against marinegrowth, the below the waterline area maybe painted with an anti-fouling paint. Bot-tom paint sold for use on a wooden orfiberglass hull is NOT suitable. At the timeof purchase, check to be sure the paintcontains the chemical properties requiredfor an aluminum surface. The label shouldclearly indicate the intended use is specific-ally for aluminum.

If the aluminum hull does not have anti-fouling paint but requires cleaning to re-move marine growth, one method is to rubthe hull with a gunny sack just as soon asthe boat is removed from the water andwhile it is still wet. The roughness of thesack is fairly effective in cleaning the sur-face of marine growth, including crusta-ceans (barnacles --for instance) that haveattached themselves to the hull. As soon as the rubdown has been completed the hullshould be washed with high-pressure freshwater.

If the rubdown and wash was not accom-plished immediately after the boat was re-moved from the water and the hull was allowed to dry, it will be necessary to coverthe hull with wet blankets, gunny sacks orother suitable material and to continue

Aluminum boat with the wooden seat removed ex-posing the Styrofoam blocks for flotation. The seatshould be removed at least once each season and theblocks thoroughly dried.

soaking the covering until the growth isloosened. An easy alternate method, ofcourse, is to return the boat to the water, ifpossible, and then too pull it out after it hasbeen allowed to soak.

If an aluminum boat should strike anunderwater object resulting in damage tothe hull and a leak develops, the only emer-gency action possible is to make an attemptto reduce the amount of water being takenon by stuffing any type of available materialinto the opening until the boat is returned toshore. The aluminum cannot be reoairedwhile it is wet. Repair of a damaged hullmust be performed by a shop equipped forheliarc welding and other aluminum work.

Styrofoam blocks are installed under theseats of all aluminum boats. The foamblocks are designed for flotation to preventthe boat from sinking even if it should fillwith water. Once each season, the woodenseat should be removed and the foam allow-ed to dry. Some manufacturers enclose thefoam blocks in plastic bags prior to intalla-tion to protect them from moisture and lossof their flotation ability. New blocks maybe purchased in a wide range of sizes. Ifnew blocks are obtained, make an attemptto enclose the block in some form of plasticcovering, then seal the package before in-stalling it under the seat.

10-5 BELOW WATERLINE SERVICE

A foul bottom can seriously affect boatperformance. This is one reason why racers,large and small, both powerboat and sail,are constantly giving attention to the condi-tion of the hull below the waterline.

In areas where marine growth is preva-lent, a coating of vinyl, anti-fouling bottompaint should be applied. If growth hasdeveloped on the bottom, it can be removedwith a solution of muriatic acid applied witha brush or swab and then rinsed with clearwater. ALWAYS use rubber gloves whenworking with muriatic acid and TAKEEXTRA CARE to keep it away from yourface and hands. The FUMES ARE TOXIC.Therefore, work in a well-ventilated area,or if outside, keep your face on the wind-ward side of the work.

Barnacles have a nasty habit of makingtheir home on the bottom of boats which ~have not been treated with anti-foulingpaint. Actually they will not harm thefiberglass hull, but can develop into a majornuisance.

If barnacles or other crustaceans haveattached themselves to the hull, extra workwill be required to bring the bottom back toa satisfactory condition. First, if practical,put the boat into a body of fresh water andallow it to remain for a f ew days. A largepercentage of the growth can be removed inthis manner. If this remedy is not possible,wash the bottom thoroughly with a high-pressure fresh water source and use a scrap-er. Small particles of hard shell may stillhold fast. These can be removed withsandpaper.

10-6 SUBMERGED ENGINE SERVICE

A submerged engine is always the resultof an unforeseen accident. Once the engineis recovered, special care and service pro-cedures MUST be closely followed in orderto return the unit to satisfactory perfor-mance.

NEVER, again we say NEVER allow anengine that has been submerged to standmore than a couple hours before followingthe procedures outlined in this section andmaking ever v effort to get it running. Such

o,'·.! '-_.' ',.

delav will result in serious internal damage.If all efforts fail and the engine cannot hestarted after the following procedures havebeen performed, the engine should be disas-sembled, cleaned, assembled, using new gas-kets, seals, and Oer irizs , and then ·st2.rted assoon as possible.

Submerged engine treatment is dividedinto three unique problem areas: submer-sion in salt water; submerged engine whilerunning; and a submerged engine in freshwater , including special instructions.

The most critical of these three circum-stances is the engine submerged in saltwater, with submersion while running aclose second.

Crankshaft from a submerged two-cylinder enginerecovered from salt wcter, In a very short time thecrank was severely damaged by corrosion.

SUBMERGED ENGINE 10-5

Rod bearing and cages badly damaged by salt watercorrosion.

Salt Water SubmersionNEVER attempt to start the engine

after it has been recovered. This action willonly result in additional parts being damag-ed and the cost of restoring the engineincreased considerably. If the engine wassubmerged in salt water the complete unitMUST be disassembled, cleaned, and as-sembled with new gaskets, O-rings, andseals. The corrosive effect of salt watercar; only be elirrlnated by the complete jobbeing properly performed.

Cleaner to restore an engine recovered from [rest:water after it has been SUbmerged.

10-6 MAINTENANCE

Submerged While RunningSpecial Instructions

If the engine was running when it wassubmerged, the chances of internal enginedamage is greatly increased. After theengine has been recovered, remove thespark plugs and attempt to rotate the fly-wheel with the rewind starter. On largerhorsepower engines without a rewind start-er, use a socket wrench on the flywheel nut.If the attempt to rotate the flywheel fails,the chances of serious internal damage, suchas, bent connecting rod, bent crankshaft, ordamaged cylinder, -is greatly increased. Ifall attempts to rotate the flywheel fail, thepowerhead must be completely disassembl-ed.

Submerged Engine - Fresh WaterSPECIAL WORD

As an aid to performing the restorationwork, the following steps are numbered andshould be followed in sequence. However,illustrations are not included with the pro-cedural steps because the work involved isgeneral in nature.

1- Recover the engine as quickly as pos-sible.

2- Remove the hood and the spark plugs.3- Remove the carburetor. To rebuild

the carburetor, see Chapter 4.4- Flush the outside of the engine with

fresh water tc remove silt, mud, sand,weeds, and other debris. DO NOT attempt tostart the engine if sand has entered thepowerhead. Such action will only result inserious damage to powerhead components.Sand in the powerhead means the unit mustbe disassembled.

5- Remove as much water as possiblefrom the power head. Most of the water canbe eliminated by first holding the engine ina horizontal position with the spark plugholes DOWN, and then cranking the enginewith the rewind starter or with a socketwrench on the flywheel nut.

6- Alcohol will absorb water. There-fore, pour alcohol into the carburetor throatand again crank the engine.

7- Lay the engine in a horizontal posi-tion, and then roll it over until the sparkplug openings are facing UPWARD. Pouralcohol into the spark plug openings andagain crank the engine.

8- Roll the engine in the horizontal posi-tion until the spark plug openings are againfacing DOWN. Pour engine oil into the

carburetor throat and, at the same time,crank the engine to distribute oil throughoutthe crankcase.

9- With the engine still in a horizontalposition, roll it 0 ver until the spark plugholes are again facing UPWARD. Pourapproximately onee teaspoon of engine oilinto each spark p:')lug opening. Crank theengine to distribute the oil in the cylinders.

10- Install the spark plugs and tightenthem to the torqu-e value given in the Ap-pendix. Connect the high-tension leads tothe spark plugs.

11- Install the c:arburetor onto the enginewith a NEW gask et on the intake manifold.

12- Mount the -engine in a test tank orbody of water.

CAUTION: Wa.er must circulate throughthe lower unit to the engine any time the en-gine is run to prev-ent damage to the waterpump in the lower unit. Just five secondswithout water will damage the water pump.

Obtain FRESII fuel and attempt to startthe engine. If the engine will start, allow itto run for approxlanately an hour to elimi-nate any water rennainlng in the engine.

Rust preventative to beesprayed inside the engine inpreparation for storage, as explained in the text.

13- If the engine fails to start, determinethe cause, electrical or fuel, correct theproblem, and again attempt to get it run-ning. NEVER allow an engine to remainunstarted for more than a couple hourswithout following the procedures in thissection and attempting to start it. If at-tempts to start the engine fail, the unitshould be disassembled, cleaned, assembled,using new gaskets, seals, and O-rings, just assoon as possible.

10-7 WINTER STORAGE

Taking extra time to store the boatproperly at the end of each season, willincrease the chances of satisfactory servicefor the next season. REMEMBER, idlenessis the greatest enemy of an outboard motor.The unit should be run on a monthly basis.The boat steering and shifting mechanismshould also be worked through completecycles several times each month. The own-er who spends a small amount of timeinvolved in such maintenance will be re-warded by satisfactory performance, andgreatly reduced maintenance expense forparts and labor.

ALWAYS remove the drain plug andposition the boat with the bow higher thanthe stern. This will allow any rain water

Engine mounted in a test tank. The engine can besafely operated at idle speeds in preparation for winterstorage, as explained in the text.

WINTER STORAGE 10-7

and melted snow to drain from the boat andprevent "trailer sinking". This term is usedto describe a boat that has filled with rainwater and ruined the interior, because theplug was not removed or the bow was nothigh enough to allow the water to drainproperly.

Proper storage for the engine involvesadequate protection of the unit from physi-cal damage, rust, corrosion, and dirt.

The following steps provide an adequatemaintenance program for storing the unit at the end of a season.

1- Remove the hood. Start the engineand allow it to warm to operating tempera-ture.


Disconnect the fuel line from the engineand allow the unit to run at LOW rpm and, at the same time, inject about 4 ounces ofrust preventative spray through each car-buretor throat. Allow the engine to rununtil it shuts down from lack of fuel, indi-cating the carburetor/s are dry of fuel.

2- Drain the fuel tank and the fuel lines.Pour approximately one qt. of benzol (ben-zene) into the fuel tank, and then rinse thetank and pickup filter with the benzol.Drain the tank. Store the fuel tank in a cooldry area with the vent OPEN to allow air tocirculate through the tank. DO NOT storethe fuel tank on bare concrete. Place thetank to allow air to circulate around it. If

Drain plug removed from the transom to allow rainand melted snow to drain from the boat. Failure torerr.ove this plug during long periods of storage cancause "boku" problems.

10-8 MAINTENANCE

Standard OMC fuel tank. During periods of storagethe tank should be empty and the cap "cracked" open toallow the tank to "breathetr•

the fuel tank containing fuel is to be storedfor more than a month, a commercial addi-tive such as Sta-Bil should be added to thefuel. This type of additive will maintain thefuel in a "fresh" condition for up to a fullyear.

3- Clean thewith benzol, see pair Section.

carburetor fuel filter/sChapter 4, Carburetor Re-

Rust preventative to be used when preparing theengine for long periods of non-use a.nd storage.

oMC fuel conditioner added to the fuel will keep itfresh for up to one full year.

Chemical additives, such as Sta-Bil and the OMCfuel conditioner at the top of the page will prevent fuelfrom "sourinq" for up to twelve months.

4- Drain, and then fill the lower unitwith OMC Lower Unit Gear Lubricant, asoutlined in Section 10-8.

5- Lubricate the throttle and shift link-age. Lubricate the swivel pin and the tilttube with Multipurpose Lubricant, or equiv-alent.

Clean the engine thoroughly. Coat thepower head with Corrosion and Rust Preven-tative spray. Install the hood and then applya thin film of fresh engine oil to all paintedsurfaces.

Remove the propeller. Apply PerfectSeal or a waterproof sealer to the propellershaft, and then install the propeller back inposition.

FINAL WORDS: Be sure all drain holesin the gear housing are open and free ofobstruction. Check to be sure the FLUSHplug has been removed to allow all water todrain. Trapped water could freeze, expand,and cause expensive castings to crack.

ALWAYS store the engine off the boatwith the lower unit below the powerhead toprevent any water from being trapped in-side. The ideal storage position for anoutboard is to hang it with the lower unitdown. If hanging is not practical, lay theoutboard on its back. This will place thelower unit below the power head.

Adding lubricant to the lower unit on a smallhorsepower engine. The lubricant must always be addedthrough the drain plug after the upper vent plug has

been removed.

LOWER UNIT 10-9

Propeller with grooves worn into the hub.

10-8 LO WER UNIT SERVICE

PROPELLER

The propeller should be checked regular-ly to be sure all the blades are in goodcondition. If any of the blades become bentor nicked, such damage will set up vibra-tions in the motor. Remove and inspect thepropeller. Use a file to trim nicks andburrs. TAKE CARE not to remove anymore material than is absolutely necessary.For a complete check, take the propeller toyour marine dealer where the proper equip-ment and knowledgeable mechanics areavailable to perform a proper job at modestcost.

Inspect the propeller shaft to be sure itis still true and not bent. If the shaft is notperfectly true, it should be replaced.

Sea weed entangled in the propeller. The propellershould be removed frequently and any foreign material,especially fiSh line, removed before it can causedamage.

10-10 MAINTENANCE

Propeller installation with a shear pin and cotter pinextending through the propeller shaft. A rubber capcovers both pins.

Propeller RemovalOn some model engines, the shear pin is

installed behind the propeller. First, pullthe cotter key, and then remove the propel-ler nut, drive pin, and washer. Because thedrive pin is not a tight fit, the propeller isable to move on the pin and cause burrs onthe hole. These burrs may make removingthe propeller difficult. To overcome this

Propeller installation with a washer and shear pin.The cotter pin is installed through the propeller nut.This type of installation is the most popular.

Propeller with a slot for the shear pin. The pin isinserted first, then the propeller is installed onto thepropeller shaft and over the shear pin.

OMC anti-corrosion lubricant that should be appliedto the propeller sheft before the propeller is installed.Such lubricant on the Shaft will not only fight corrosion,but assist in propeller removal.

problem, the propeller hub has two groovesrunning the full length of the hub. Hold theshaft from turning, and then rotate thepropeller 1/4 turn to position the groovesover the dr ive pin holes. The propeller canthen be pulled straight off the shaft. Afterthe propeller has been removed, file thedr ive pin holes on both sides of the shaft toremove the burrs.

InstallationOn some model engines, the shear pin is

installed behind the propeller. On such unitsthe propeller shaft should be coated withPerfect Seal, and then the propeller instal-led. After the propeller is on the shaft,install the washer, shear pin, propeller nut,and finally a NEW cotter pin.

Draining Lower UnitRemove the VENT plug just above the

anti-cavitation plate FIRST, and then theFILL plug f rom the gear housing. NEVER remove the vent or filler plug when thedrive unit is hot. Expanded lubricant wouldbe released through the plug hole.

CRITICAL WORDThe Phillips screw securing the shift fork

in place is located very close to the ventscrew. If the wrong screw is removed,BAD NEWS, VERY BAD NEWS. The lowerunit will have to be disassembled in order toreturn the shift fork to its proper location.

Allow the gear lubricant to drain intothe container. As the lubricant drains,

Draining lubricant from a lower I1nit. TAKE CAREnot to remove the Phillips screw by mistake. Thisscrew secures the Shift fork in position.

LOWER UNIT 10-11

catch some with your fingers, from time-to-time, and rub it between your thumb andfinger to determine if any metal particlesare present. If metal is detected in thelubricant, the unit must be completely dis-assembled, inspected, and the damagedparts replaced.

If the lubricant appears milky brown, orif large amounts of lubricant must be addedto bring the lubricant up to the full mark, athorough check should be made to determinethe cause of the loss.

Filling Lower UnitAdd only OMC lower unit lubricant.

Lubricant, for engines covered in this man-ual, is as follows: Use ONLY Type C, nowknown as Premium Blend Gearcase Lube, inall electric shift models. Use either Pre-mium Blend Lube or the OMC Hi-Vis Gear-case Lube for all other engines. NEVER useregular automotive-type grease in the lowerunit because it expands and foams too much.Lower units do not have provisions to ac-commodate such expansion.

The gearcase lubricant should be chang-ed twice each year or season. If the lubri-cant is purchased in a large container, saythe one-gallon size, a considerable savingscan be realized. What is not used this

Lubricant being drained from a lower unit withoutshift capabilities. Therefore, the Phillips screw men-tioned in the illustration in the left column is notpresent.

10-12 MAINTENANCE

season will be used in the next or the oneafter. A small inexpensive pump can be bepurchased to move the lubricant from thelarge container to the lower unit.

Position the drive unit approximatelyvertical and without a list to either port orstarboard. Insert the lubricant tube into theFILL/DRAILNI hole at the bottom plug hole,and inject lubricant until the excess beginsto come out the VENT hole. Install theVENT and FILL plugs with NEW gaskets.

After the lower plug has been installed,remove the vent plug again and using asquirt-type oil can, add lubricant throughthis vent hole. A squirt-type oil can mustbe used to allow the trapped air in the lowerunit to escape at the same time the finallubricant is added. Once the unit is com-pletely full, install and tighten the ventplug.

Check to be sure the vent and drain pluggaskets are properly positioned to preventwater from entering the housing.

See the Appendix for lower unit capaci-ties.

The two types of lubricant used for Johnson/Evin-rude engines. The text clearly identifies the lubricantto be used on the different model engines covered inthis manual.

Filling the lov:er unit on a small horsepo·wer enginethrough the lower hole after the vent plug has beenremoved.

Filling a non-shifting lower unit with lubrican.t.

Using a squirt can to "top off" the lubricant in thelower unit, as explained in the text.

10-9 BATTERY STORAGE

Remove the batteries from the boat andkeep them charged during the storage peri-od. Clean the batteries thoroughly of anydirt or corrosion, and then charge them tofull specific gravity reading. After they arefully charged, store them in a clean cool dryplace where they will not be damaged orknocked over.

NEVER store the battery with anythingon top of it or cover the battery in such amanner as to prevent air from circulatingaround the filler caps. All batteries, bothnew and old, will discharge during periods ofstorage, more so if they are hot than if theyremain cool. Therefore, the electrolytelevel and the specific gravity should bechecked at regular intervals. A drop in thespecific gravity reading is cause to chargethem back to a full reading.

In cold climates, EXERCISE CARE inselecting the battery storage area. A fully-charged battery will freeze at about 60

A check of the electrolyte in the battery should beon the maintenance schedule for any boat. Ahy,drometer reading of 1.300 or in the green band,indicates the battery is in satisfactory condition. If thereading is 1.150 or in the red band, the battery needs tobe charged. Observe the six safety points given in thetext, when using a hydrometer.

PRE-SEASON PREPARATION 10-13

Today, numerous type spark plugs are available {orservice. ALWAYS check with the local OMC dealer tobe sure you are purchasing the proper plugs for theengine being serviced.

degrees below zero. A discharged battery,almost dead, will have ice forming at about 19 degrees above zero.

10-10 PRESEASON PREPARATION

Satisfactory performance and maximumenjoyment can be realized if a little time isspent in preparing the engine for service atthe beginning of the season. Assuming theunit has been properly stored, as outlined inSection 10-6, a minimum amount of work isrequired to prepare the engine for use.

The following steps outline an adequateand logical sequence of tasks to be perform-ed before using the engine the first time ina new season.

1- Lubricate the engine according to themanufacturer's recommendations. Remove,clean, inspect, adjust, and install the spark

Correct and incorrect spark plug installation. Theplugs MUST be installed properly and tightened to theproper torque value for satisfactory performance.

10-14 MAINTENANCE

Typical. fuel hose .dth squeeze bulb. The hose anebulb must remain flexible. The O-rings MUST preventfuel leakage.

plugs with new gaskets if they require gas-kets. Make a thorough check of the ignitionsystem. This check should include: thepoints, coil, condenser, condition of the wir-ing, and the battery electrolyte level andcharge.

2- If a built-in fuel tank is installed,take time to check the tank and all of thefuel lines, fittings, couplings, valves, andthe flexible tank fill and vent. Turn on thefuel supply valve at the tank. If the fuelvias not drained at the end of the previousseason, make a careful inspection for gumformation. If a six-gallon fuel tank is used,

Method of removing an O-ring from a connector.The connector is also replaceable.

Adding OMC oil to the fuel. Only a high grade oilshould be added to the fuel to ensure proper lubrication.

take the same action. When gasoline isallowed to stand for long periods of time, particularly in the presence of copper, gum-my deposits form. This gum can clog thefilters, lines, and passagev.rays in the carbu-retor. See Chapter 4-, Fuel System Service.

3- Check the oil level in the lower unitby first removing the vent screw on the portside just above the anti-cavitation plate.

OMC lubricants for Jor.nson/Evinrude outboards.

Insert a short piece of wire into the hole andcheck the level. Fill the lower unit accord-ing to procedures outlined in Section 10-8.

4- Close all water drains. Check andreplace any defective water hoses. Checkto be sure the connections do not leak.Replace any spring-type hose clamps, ifthey have lost their tension, or if they havedistorted the water hose, with band-typeclamps,

5- The engine can be run with the lowerunit in water to flush it. If this is notpractical, a flush attachment may be used.This unit is attached to the water pick-up inthe lower unit. Attach a garden hose, turnon the water, allow the water to flow intothe engine for awhile, and then run theengine.


Check the idle exhaust port for waterdischarge. At idle speed, only a fine watermist will be visible. Check for leaks.Check operation of the thermostat. Afterthe engine has reached operating tempera-ture, tighten the cylinder head bolts to thetorque value given in the Specifications inthe Appendix.

6- Check the electrolyte level in thebatteries and the voltage for a full charge.Clean and inspect the battery terminals and

Using a squirt can to "top off" the lubricQnt in clower unit, as described in the text.

PRE-SEASON PREPARA TION 10-15

The battery should be located near the engine andwell secured to prevent even the slightest amount ofmovement. The -battery, including the terminals,MUSTbe kept clean for maximum performance.

cable connections. TAKE TIME to checkthe polarity, if a new battery is being in-stalled. Cover the cable connections withgrease or special protective compound as aprevention to corrosion formation. Checkall electrical wiring and grounding circuits.

An engine mounted in Q test tar.-k can be safelyoperated at idle speed for adjustment purposes.

10-16 MAINTENANCE

7- Check all electrical parts on the en-gine and electrical fixture or connections inthe lower portions of the hull inside the boatto be sure they are not of a type that couldcause ignition of an explosive atmosphere.Rubber caps help keep spark insulators cleanand reduce the possibility of arcing. Start-ers, generators, distributors, alternators,electric fuel pumps, voltage regulators,and high-tension wiring harnesses should beof a marine type that cannot cause anexplosive mixture to ignite.

ONE FINAL WORD

Before putting the boat in the water,TAKE TIME to VERIFY the drain plugs areinstalled. Countless number of boating ex-cursions have had a very sad beginning be-cause the boat was eased into the wateronly to have water begin filling the inside.

Keep your gas tank full, the fuel pumppumping, the spark plugs sparking, and thepistons, well, keep them working too.

Clarence & Howard An OMC degreaser widely used for cleaning the boatand engine.

KEY SWITCHPANEL

•

WIRINGHARNESS JUNCTION

BOXWIRING HARNESS

TO ENGINE

Principle electrical points requiring a careful check at the start of each season.

APPENDIXMETRIC CONVERSION CHART

LINEARinches feetyards milesinches

X 25.4 X 0.3048X 0.9144X 1.6093X 2.54

AREAinches2 X 645.16

inches2feet2yards2acres

X 6.452X 0.0929 X 0.8361X 0.4047

miles2 X 2.590

VOLUMEinches3 inches3inches3quartsgallons feet3feet3fluid ozyards3

:: millimetres (mm)= metres (rn):: metres (rn)= kilometres (krn):: centimetres (em)

:: millimetres2(mm2)

:: centimetres2 (cm2):: metres2 (m2):: metres2 (m2):: hectares (104 m2)

(ha)= kilometres2 (krn 2)

X 16387 :: millimetres3 (mm3)X 16.387 = centimetres3 (cm3)X 0.01639 :: l it r es (1)X 0.94635 = litres (1)X 3.7854 :: litres (1)X 28.317 :: 1itres (1)X 0.02832 :: metres3 (m3)X 23.57 :: millilitres (rnl)X 0.7646 :: rrietr esf (m3)

MASS ounces (av)pounds (av) tons (2000 lb)tons (2000 Ib)

X 28.35 = grams (g)X 0.4536 :: kilograms (kg)X 907.18 :: kilograms (kg)X 0.90718:: metric tons (t)

FORCE ounces - f (av)pounds - f (av)kilograms - f

X 0.278X 4.448X 9.807

ACCELERATIONfeet/sec2inches/sec2

= newtons (N):: newtons (N)= newtons (N)

X 0.3048 :: metres/sec2 (m/S2)X 0.0254 :: metres/sec2 (m/s2)

foot-poundscalories Btu watt-hours kilowatt - hr s

ENERGY OR WORK (watt-second - joule - newton-metre)X 1.3558X 4.187X 1055X 3500X 3.600

.: joules (j):: joules (j).: joules (j)= joules (j) :: megajoules (MJ)

FUEL ECONOMY AND FUEL CONSUMPTIONmiles/gal X 0.42514 :: kilometres/litre

(krn/T)Note:235.2/(mi/gal) '" litres/100km235.2/(litres/100 krn ) = m i/g al

LIGHTfootcandles X 10.76 :: lumens/metre2

(Im/m2)

PRESSURE OR STRESS (newton/sq metre - pascal)inches HG (60 F) X 3.377 :: kilopascals (~.pa)pounds/ sq in X 6.895 .: kilopascals (kPa)inches H20 (60' F) X 0.2488 :: kilopascals (kPa)bars X 100 :: kilopascals (kPa)pounds/sq ft X 47.88 :: pascals (Pa)

POWERhorsepowerft-lbf/min

TORQUEpound-inchespound-feet

VELOCITYmiles/hour

feet/ seckilometres/hrmiles/hour

X 0.746 :: kilowatts (kW)X 0.0226 :: watts (W)

X 0.11299:: newton-metres (N.m)X 1.3558 :: newton-metres (N·m)

X 1.6093 :: kilometres/hour(krnz'h)

X 0.3048 :: metres/sec (m/s)X 0.27778:: metres/sec (m/s)X 0.4470 :: metres/sec (m/s)

TEMPERATURE32 98.6 212

F -40 0

140

8U 120 160 :o~ 240 280 320 "F

! I I I ~I I I I ! I I I ! II1

!

I!i I

I I I II ) I 1

I II ' I

"C -40 -20 a 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 "c

Celsius:: 0.556 (' F -32) C F :: (1.8CC) +32

A-2 APPENDIX

DRILL SIZE CONVERSION CHARTSHOWING MILLIMETER SIZES, FRACTIONAL ANDDECIMAL INCH SIZES AND NUMBER DRILL SIZES

Milli· Dec. Frac- Num· Milli· Dec. Frae- Num- Milli· Dec. Frac- Num· Milli· Dec. Frae- Num· Milli· Dec. Frae-Meter Equiv. tional ber Meter Equiv. tional ber Meter Equiv. tional ber Meter Equiv. tional ber Meter Equiv. tional

.1 .0039 1.75 .0689 .... .1570 22 6.8 .2677 10.72 .4219 27/64

.15 .0059 .... .0700 50 4.0 .1575 6.9 .2716 11.0 .4330

.2 .0079 1.8 .0709 .... .1590 21 . ... .2720 I 11.11 .4375 7/16

.25 .0098 1.85 .0728 .... .1610 20 7.0 .2756 11.5 .4528

.3 .0118 .... .0730 49 I 4.1 .1614 . ... .2770 J 11.51 .4531 29/64.0135 80 1.9 .0748

4.2 .1654 7.1 .2795 11.91 .4687 15/32 .35 .0138 .... .0760 48 . ... .1660 19 . ... .2811 K 12.0 .4724

.... .0415 79 1.95 .0767 4.25 .1673 7.14 .2812 9/32 . ... 12.30 .4843 31/64 .39 .0156 1/64 .... 1.98 .0781 5/64 . ... 4.3 .1693 7.2 .2835 12.5 .4921 .4 .0157 .... .0785 47 . ... .1695 18 7.25 .2854 12.7 .5000 1/2.... .0160 78 2.0 .0787 4.37 .1719 11/64 . ... 7.3 .2874 13.0 .5118 .45 .0177 2.05 .0807 .... .1730 17 . ... .2900 L 13.10 .5156 33/64.... .0180 77 . ... .0810 46 4.4 .1732 7.4 .2913 13.49 .5312 17/32 .5 .0197 .... .0820 45 .. ,- .1770 16 .... .2950 M 13.5 .5315

.... .0200 76 2.1 .0827 4.5 .1771 7.5 .2953 13.89 .546935/64 .... .0210 75 2.15 .0846 . ... .1800 15 7.54 .2968 19/64 . ... 14.0 .5512

.55 .0217 .... .0860 44 4.6 .1811 7.6 .2992 14.29 .5624 9/16.... .0225 74 2.2 .0866 . ... .1820 14 . ... .3020 N 14.5 .5709 .6

.0236 2.25 .0855 4.7 .1850 13 7.7 .3031 14.68 .5781 37/64.... .0240 73 . ... .0890 43 4.75 .1870 7.75 .3051 15.0 .5906

.0250 72 2.3 .0905 4.76 .1875 3/16 . ... 7.8 .3071 15.08 .5937 19/32

.65 .0256 2.35 .0925 4.8 .1890 12 7.9 .3110 15.48 .6094 39/64.... .0260 71 " . 0935 42 . ... .1910 11 7.94 .3125 5/16 . ... 15.5 .6102

.0280 70 2.38 ..........................................................................................0937 3/32 .., . 4.9.1929 8.0 .3150 15.88 .6250 5/8

.7 .0276 2.4 .0945 .... .1935 10 . .. .3160 0 16.0 .6299

.0292 69 . ... ........................................................0960 41 . ....1960 9 8.1 .3189 16.27 .6406 41/64

.75

.0295 2.45 .0964 5.0 .1968 8.2 .3228 16.5 .6496.0310 68 ... . .0980 40 . ... .1990 8 . .. .3230

P 16.67 .6562 21/32 .79 .0312 1/32 .... 2.5 .0984 5.1 .2008 8.25 .3248 17.0 .6693

.8 .0315 .... .0995 39 . ... .2010 7 8.3 .3268 17.06 .6719 43/64

... . .0320 67 .., . .1015 38 5.16 .2031 13/64 ... . 8.33 .3281 21/64 .. . . 17.46 .6875 11/16.0330 66 2.6 .1024 . ... .2040

6 8.4 .3307 17.5 .6890

.85 .0335 ... . .1040 37 5.2 .2047 .... .3320 0. 17.86 .7031 45/64

... . .0350 65 2.7 .1063 .... .2055 5 8.5 .3346 18.0 .7087

.9 .0354 .... .1065 36 5.25 .2067 8.6 .3386 18.26 .7187 23/32, ... .0360 64 2.75 .1082 5.3 .2086 .... .3390 R 18.5 .7283

... . .0370 63 2.78 .1094 7/64 ... . ... .2090 4 8.7 .3425 18.65 .7344 47/64

.. 95 .0374 ... . .1100 35 5.4 .2126 8.73 .3437 11/32 .... 19.0 .7480

... . .0380 62 2.8 .1102 ... .2130 3 8.75 .3445 19.05 .7500 3/4

... . .0390 61 .... .1110 34 5.5 .2165 8.8 .3465 19.45 .7656 49/641.0 .0394 ... . .1130 33 5.56 .2187 7/32 ... . .... .3480 S 19.5 .7677

.0400 60 2.9 .1141 5.6 .22058.9 .3504 19.84 .7812 25/32

.. ,- .0410 59 ... . .1160 32 .... .2210 2 9.0 .3543 20.0 .78741.05 .0413 3.0 .1181 5.7 .2244 .... .3580 T 20.24 .7969 51/64

.. . - .0420 58 .... .1200 31 5.75 .2263 9.1 .3583 20.5 .8071_ ... .0430 57 3.1 .1220 ... . .2280 1 9.13 .3594 23/64 .... 20.64 .8125 13/161.1 .0433 3.18 .1250 1/8 .... 5.8 .2283 9.2 .3622 21.0 .82681.15 .0452

3.2 .1260 5.9 .2323 9.25 .3641 21.04 .8218 53/64

... . .0465 56 3.25 .1279 .... 2340 A 9.3 .3661 21.43 .8437 27/321.19 .0469 3/64 ... . .1285 30 5.95 .2344 15/64 .... . ... .3680 U 21.5 .8465.. .1.2 .0472 3.3 .1299 6.0 .2362 9.4 .3701 21.83 .8594 55/641.25 .0492 3.4 .1338 .... .2380 B 9.5 .3740 22.0 .8661

1.3 .0512 ... . .1360 29 6.1 .2401 9.53 .3750 3/8 .... 22.23 .8750 7/8

.. , . .0520 55 3,5 .1378 ... . .2420 C .... .3770 V 22.5 .88581.35 .0513 .... .1405 28 6.2 .2441 9.6 .3780 22.62 .8906 57/64

.0550 54 3.57 .1406 9/64 . ... 6.25 .2460 0 9.7 .381923.0 .9055

1.4 .055136 .1417 6.3 .2480 9.75 .3838 23.02 .9062 29/32

1.45 .0570 .... .1440 27 6.35 .2500 1/4 E 9.8 .3858 23.42 .9219 59/641.5 .0591 3.7 .1457 6.4 .2520 .... .3860 W 23.5 .9252

.... .0595 53 . ... .1470 26 6.5 .2559 9.9 .3839 23.81 .9375 15/161.55 .0610 3.75 .1476 ... . .2570 F 9.92 .3906 25/64 .... 24.0 .94491.59 .0625 1/16 . . . . .... .1495 25 6.6 .2598 10.0 .3937 24.21 .9531 61/641.6 .0629 3.8 .1496 .. . .2610 G .... .3970 X 24.5 .9646

... . .0635 52 . ... .1520 24 6.7 .2638 .... 4040 y 24.61 .9687 31/321.65 .0649 B.9 .1535 6.75 .2657 16/64 ... . 10.32 .4062 13/32 ... 25.0 .98431.7 .0669 ... . .1540 23 6.75 .2657 . _ .. .4130 Z 25.03 .9844 63/64.... .0670 51 3.97 .1562 5/32 . ... . ... .2660 H 10.5 .4134 25.4 1.00001

A-4 APPENDIX

POWERHEAD SPECIFICATIONS

HP YEAR STROKE BORE BORE BORE PISTON TO CYLSTD OVERSIZE OVERSIZE CLEARANCE

MAX MIN

1.5 1968 1.37 1.56 0.020 0.0025 0.00131.5 1969 1.37 1.56 0.020 0.0055 0.004-3

1.5 1970 1.37 1.56 0.020 0.0055 0.004-3

3.0 1956-67 1.37 1.56 0.020 0.0013 0.002

3.0 1968 1.37 1.56 0.020 0.0025 0.0013

4-.0 1969 1.37 1.56 0.020 0.004-9 0.0014-

4-.0 1970 1.37 1.56 0.020 0.008 0.0020

5.0 1965-68 1.50 1.94- 0.020 0.003 0.0018

5.5 1956-64- 1.50 1.94- 0.020 0.0025 0.0013

6.0 1965-70 1.50 1.94- 0.020 0.003 0.0018

7.5 1956-57 1.75 2.125 0.000 0.0015 0.0030

9.5 1968 1.81 2.31 0.020 0.004-5 0.0030

9.5 1969-70 1.81 2.32 0.020 0.0050 0.0035

10 1956-63 1.875 2.37 N/A 0.0035 0.0030

15 1956 2.50 2.37 N/A 0.0035 0.0030

18 1957-64- 2.25 2.50 0.025 0.04-0 0.0035 0.004-0

18 1965-68 2.25 2.50 0.020 0.04-0 0.004-5 0.0030

18-20 1969-1970 2.25 2.50 0.020 0.04-0 0.004-7 0.0032

20 1966-68 2.25 2.50 0.020 0.04-0 0.004-5 0.0030

25 1969-70 2.25 2.50 0.020 0.04-0 0.004-5 0.0033

28 1962-64- 2.75 2.875 0.020 0.04-0 0.025 0.004-0

30 1956 2.75 2.875 0.020 0.04-0 0.025 0.004-0

33 1965-70 2.75 3.06 0.020 0.04-0 0.04-5 0.0030

35 1957-59 2.75 3.06 0.020 0.04-0 0.0035 0.004-0

4-0 1960-61 2.75 3.19 N/A 0.025 0.0035 0.004-0

4-0 1962-68 2.75 3.19 N/A 0.025 0.004-5 0.0030

4-0 1969-70 2.75 3.19 N/A 0.025 0.004-5 0.0030

APPENDIX A-5

POWERHEAD SPECIFICATIONS

HP YEAR PISTON RING GROOVE WIDTH OF RINGMAX MIN MAX MIN

PISTON RINGEND GAP

MAX MIN

1.5 1968 0.0035 0.0010 0.0935 0.0925 0.015 0.0051.5 1969 0.0035 0.0010 0.0625 0.0615 0.015 0.0051.5 9170 0.0040 0.0020 0.0625 0.0615 0.015 0.005

3.0 1956-67 0.0035 0.0010 0.015 0.005

3.0 1968 0.0035 0.0010 0.0935 0.0925 0.015 0.005

4.0 1969 0.0035 0.0010 0.0625 0.0615 0.015 0.005

4.0 1970 0.0040 0.0020 0.0625 0.0615 0.015 0.005

5.0 1965-68 0.0035 0.0010 0.0935 0.0925 0.015 0.005

5.5 1956-64 0.0035 0.0010 0.0935 0.0925 0.015 0.005

6.0 1965-70 0.0035 0.0010 0.0935 0.0925 0.015 0.005

7.5 1956-57 0.0035 0.0010 0.015 0.005

9.5 1968 0.0035 0.0010 0.0935 0.0925 0.017 0.007

9.5 1969-70 0.0035 0.0010 0.0935 0.0925 0.017 0.007

10 1956-63 0.0015 0.0030 0.017 0.007

15 1956 0.0015 0.0030 0.017 0.007

18 1957-64 0.0015 0.0030 0.0935 0.0925 0.017 0.007

18 1965-68 0.0035 0.0010 0.0935 0.0925 0.017 0.007

18-20 1969-70 0.0040 0.0020 0.0625 0.0615 0.017 0.007

20 1966-68 0.0035 0.0010 0.0625 0.0615 0.017 0.007

25 1969-70 0.0040 0.0020 0.0625 0.0615 0.017 0.007

28 1962064 0.0045 0.0070 0.017 0.007

30 1956 0.0045 0.0070 0.017 0.007

33 1965-70 0.0045 0.0070 0.0935 0.0925 0.017 0.007

35 1957-59 0.0065 0.0050 0.017 0.007

40 1960-61 0.0065 0.0050 0.017 0.007

40 1962-68 0.0045 0.0070 0.0935 0.0925 0.017 0.007

40 1969-70 0.0045 0.0020 0.0935 0.0925 0.017 0.007

TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS 1>0\

SEE GENERAL AND SPECIAL NOTES APPENDIX PAGE A-lO

>"'CJOHNSON MODEL EVINRUOE MODEL NO. HP CU IN W 0 T SPARK SHIFT PRIMARY PRIMARY PIU ~

CYL DISPL RPM PLUG REMOVAL PICKUP ADJUSTMENT ZTYPE NOTE LOCATION NOTE 0

X1956 1956 1956

JW-12 Lightwin, Ouctwin 2 3 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1CD-13 Fisherman 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1AD-I0 Fleetwin 2 7.5 12.40 4000 J6J B,C 7 1QD-17 Sportman 2 10 16.60 4000 J6J 0 7 1

FD, FDE-I0 Fastwin 2 15 19.94 4000 J6J 0 7 1RD, ROE, RJE-18 Bigtwin Lark 2 30 35.70 4000 J6J 0 9 1

1957 1957 1957JW-13 3022-3024 2 3 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1CD-14 5514 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1AD-ll 7522 2 7.5 12.4 4000 J6J B,C 7 1QO-18 10014 2 10 16.6 4000 J6J 0 7 1

FD, FDE-l1 15020-15922 2 18 22.0 4500 J4J 0 7 1RO, ROE, RJE-19 25028-25930-25532 2 35 40.5 4500 J4J 0 9 1

1958 1958 1958JW-14 3026-3028 2 3.0 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1CD-15 5516 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1AD-12 7524 2 7.5 12.4 4000 J6J B,C 7 1QD-19 10016 2 10.0 16.6 4000 J6J D 7 1

FD, FDE-12 15024-15926 2 18 22.0 4500 J4J D 7 1RO, ROE, RDS-19C 25034-25936-35514 2 35 40.5 4500 J4J 0 9 3

1959 1959 1959JW-15 3030-3032 2 3.0 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1CO-16 5518 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1QO-20 10018 2 10.0 16.6 4000 J4J D 7 1FD-13 15028 2 18.0 22.0 4500 J4J 0 7 1

RD, RDS-21 35012-35516 2 35.0 40.5 4500 J4J D 9 3

NOTE: See Appendix Page A-lO for primary pickup location, primary pickup adjust-ment note, and shift removal note called out in this table.

TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONSSEE GENERAL AND SPECIAL NOTES APPENDIX PAGE A-I0

JOHNSON MODEL EVINRUDE MODEL NO. HP CU IN W 0 T SPARK SHIFT PRIMARY PRIMARY PluCYL DISPL RPM PLUG REMOVAL PICKUP ADJUSTMENT

TYPE NOTE LOCATION NOTE

1960 1960 1960JW-16 3034-3036 2 3.0 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1CD-17 5520 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1QD-21 10020 2 10.0 16.6 4500 J4J D 7 1FD-14 15032 2 18 22.0 4500 J4J D 7 1

RD, RDS-22 35018-35520 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J D 9 3

1961 1961 1961JW-17 3038-3040 2 3.0 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1CD-18 5522 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1QD-22 10032 2 10 16.6 4500 J4J D 7 1FD-15 15034 2 18 22 4500 J4J D 7 1

RD, RDS-23 35022-35524 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J D 9 3

1962 1962 1962JW-17 3042-3044 2 3 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1CD-19 5524 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1QD-23 10024 2 10 16.6 4500 J4J D 7 1FD-16 15036 2 18 22 4500 J4J D 7 1RX-lO 28202 2 28 35.7 4500 J4J D 9 3

RD, RDS, RK-24 35028-30; 35932 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J D 9 3

1963 1963 1963JW-18 3302-3312 2 3 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1CD-20 5302 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1 >QD-24 10302 2 10 16.6 4500 J4J D 7 1 '"0FD-I7 18302 2 18 22 4500 J4J D 7 1 '"0rnRX-ll 28302 2 28 35.7 4500 J4J D 9 3 Z

RD, RDS, RK-25 40302-352; 40362-372 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J D 9 4- 2X

NOTE: See Appendix Page A-I0 for primary pickup location, primary pickup adjust- >ment note, and shift removal note called out in this table. I"'-.l

TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS1>SEE GENERAL AND SPECIAL NOTES APPENDIX PAGE A-lO CX)

JOHNSON MODEL EVINRUDE MODEL NO. HP CU IN W 0 T SPARK SHIFT PRIMARY PRIMARY PIUCYL DISPL RPM PLUG REMOVAL PICKUP ADJUSTMENT »

TYPE NOTE LOCATION NOTE '"'0'"'0m1964 1964 1964 Z

JW,JH-19 3402-12; 3432 2 3 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1 0CD-21 5402 2 5.5 8.84 4000 J6J B,C 7 1 xMQ-I0 9422 2 9.5 15.2 4500 J4J E 7 2FD-18 18402 2 18 22 4500 J4J D 7 1RX-12 28402 2 28 35.7 4500 J4J D 9 3

RD, RDS, Rk-26 40402-52; 40462-72 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J D 9 4

1965 1965 1965JW, JH-20B 3502-12; 3532 2 3 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1

LD-lOS 5502 2 5 8.84 4000 J6J A,B 7 1CD-22M 6502 2 6 8.84 4500 J6J B,E 7 1MQ-llC 9522 2 9.5 15.2 4500 J4J E 7 2FD-19DL 18502 2 18 22 4500 J4J D 7 1

RX, RXW-13BE 33502-52 2 33 40.5 4500 J4J D 9 3RD, RDS, RK, AM-27 40502-52; 40562-72 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J D 9 4

1966 1966 1966JW, JWL, JH, JHL-21 3602-03; 3612-32; 3G33 2 3 5.28 4000 J6J A 7 1

LD, LDL-ll 5602-03 2 5 8.84 4000 J6J A,B 7 1CD, CDL-23 6602-03 2 6 8.84 4500 J6J B,E 7 1MQ, MQL-12 9622-23 2 9.5 15.2 4500 J4J E 7 2

18602-03 2 18 22 4500 J4J D 7 1FD, FDL-20 2 20 22 4500 J4J D 7 1

RX,RXL, RXE, RXEL 33602-03; 33652-53 2 33 40.5 4500 J4J D 9 3RD, RDL-28 40602-03; 40652-53; 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J D 9 4

40672-73

1967 1967 1967JW, JWF, JWF IC, JH, JHF 3612-3716; 3732-33; 3706-07; 2 3 5.28 40000 J6J A 6 1

JHF IC, JHL-22 3702-03; 3736-37LD, LDL-12 5702-03 2 5 8.84 4000 J6J A,B 6 1CD, CDL-24 6702-03 2 6 8.84 4500 J6J B, E 6 1MQ, MQL-13 9722-23 2 9.5 15.2 4500 J4J E 7 2

NOTE: See Appendix Page A-lO for primary pickup location, primary pickup adjust-ment note, and shift removal note called out in this table.

TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONSSEE GENERAL AND SPECIAL NOTES APPENDIX PAGE A-IO

JOHNSON MODEL EVINRUDE MODEL NO. HP CU IN W 0 T SPARK SHIFT PRIMARY PRIMARY PluCYL DISPL RPM PLUG REMOVAL PICKUP ADJUSTMENT

TYPE NOTE LOCATION NOTE

1967 (Continued) 1967 (Continued) 1967 (Continued)18702-03 2 18 22 4500 J4J D 8 1

FD, FDL-21 2 20 22 4500 J4J D 8 1RX, RXL. RXE, RXEL-15 33702-03; 33752-53 2 33 40.5 4500 J4J D 9 3

RD, RDL, RDS, ROSL, 40702-03; 40752-53; 40772-73 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J D 9 4RK, RKL-29

1968 1968 1968se-re 1802 1 1.5 2.64 4000 J6J A 5 1

JH,JHL,JHF, JHF/C, 3806-07; 3802-03; 3832-33 2 3 5.28 4000 J6J A 6 1JW, JWF, JWF IC-23 3836-37

LD, LDL-13 5802-03 2 5 8.84- 4000 J6J A,B 6 1CO, CDL-25 6802-03 2 6 8.84- 4500 J6J B,E 6 1MQ, MQL-14 9822-23 2 9.5 15.2 4500 J4J E 7 2

18802-03 2 18 22.0 4500 J4J 0 8 1FO, FOL-22 2 20 22.0 4500 J4J 0 8 1

RX, RXL, RXE, RXEL-16 33802-03; 33852-53 2 33 40.5 4500 J4J 0 9 3RD, ROL, ROs, RDsL-30 40802-03; 40852-53; 40g72-73 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J 0 9 4

1969 1969 1969lR-69 1902 1 1.5 2.67 4000 J6J A 5 1

4R, 4W, 4WF-69 4902; 4906; 4936 2 4 5.28 4500 J6J A 6 16R,6RL-69 6902-03 2 6 8.84- 4500 J6J B,E 6 19R,9RL-69 9922-23 2 9.5 15.2 4500 J4J E 7 2

18902-03 2 18 22.0 4500 J4J 0 8 420R, 20RL-69 2 20 22.0 4500 J4J 0 8 4 »

"tl25R, 25RL-69 25902-03 2 25 22.0 5500 J4J 0 8 4 "'0

33R, 33RL, 33E, 33EI-69 33902-03; 33952-53 2 33 40.5 4500 J4J 0 9 3 mZ

40R, 40RL, 40E, 40EL, 40902-03; 40952-53; 40972-73 2 40 43.9 4500 J4J 0 9 4 0-40Es, 40EsL-69 x

NOTE: See Appendix Page A-lO for primary pickup location, primary pickup adjust- »Im ent note, and shift removal note called out in this table. \0

PRIMARY PIUADJUSTMENT »

NOTE "'0"'0mZCJ-X

TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONSJOHNSON MODEL SHIFT

RElvl0VALNOTE

PRIMARYPICKUP

LOCATION

NO. HPCYL

CU IN W 0 T SPARKDISPL RPM PLUG

TYPE

EVINRUDE MODEL

1970 1970 19701R-70 1002 1 1.5 2.6l~ 4000 J6J A 5 1

4R,4W-70 4006; 4036 2 4 5.28 4500 J6J A 6 16R,6RL-70 6002-03 2 6 8.84 4500 J6J B,E 6 19R,9RL-70 9022-23 2 9.5 15.2 4500 J4J E 7 2

18002-03 2 18 22.0 4500 J4J 0 8 420R, 2ORL-70 2 20 22.0 4500 J4J D 8 425R, 25RL-70 25002-03 2 25 22.0 5500 J4J D 8 4

33R, 33RL, 33E, 33EL-70 33002-03; 33052-53 2 33 40.5 4500 J4J D 9 3lIOR, lIORL, 40E, 40EL. 40002-03; lI0052-54; 40072-73 2 40 II3.9 lI500 J4J D 9 4-

lIOES, 40ESL-70

GENERAL NOTES

All engines - flywheel magneto.Top cylinder -- No.1.Bottom cylinder -- No.2.All points -- .020".All spark plugs -- .030".Timing NOT adjustable.

SPECIAL NOTES Primary Pickup Location 5- Port side of mark. 6- Starboard side of mark.7- Center of mark.S- Between marks. 9- Mark at pointer.

Primary Pickup Adjustment 1- Loosen two screws under armature plate andmove primary pickup in or out to meet follower.2- Loosen center screw on throttle lever andmove lever in or out to match line on cam (9.5 HPModel only). 3- Loosen eccentric lock screw on throttle shaftand turn eccentric to move roller to meet arma-ture cam. 4- Loosen clamp on throttle shaft and move roll-er to meet armature cam.

Shift Removal A- No shift rod. 8- Pin in upper end of drlveshaft.C- Remove powerhead. 0- Remove window.E- Drop lower unit.

1>o

APPENDIX A-I I

GEAR OIL CAPACITIES

ENGINESIZE

1.5 hp

3.0 hp

4.0 hp

4.0W hp

5.0 hp

5.5 hp

6.0 hp

7.5 hp

9.5 hp

10 hp

15 hp

18 hp

20 hp

25 hp28 hp

30 hp

33 hp

35 hp

40 hp

ltOE hp

MODEL

1968-70

1956-70

1969-70

1969-70

1965-68

1956-6lt

1965-70

1956-58

1961t-70

1956-63

1956

1956-70

1966-68

1969-70

1962-65

1956

1965-68

1957-59

1969-70

1962-70

CAPACITYOUNCES

.75

2.91.3

3.lt

2.98.58.58.59.710.08.38.38.38.313.9

13.9

13.9

13.9

13.9

15.0

A-12 APPENDIX

STARTER MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS

ModelNumber

BrushSpring

Tension(Ounces)

ArmatureEnd Play(Inches)

Min.RPMMax.Amperes

Max.Amperes

Min.Lbs. Ft.Volts Volts

MDO-O 4-2-66 0.005 min. 10.0 38 10,000 4.0 170 1.5

MDO-l 4-2-66 .010-.035 10.0 38 10,000 4-.0 170 1.5

MDW-O 4-2-66 .010-.035 10.0 26 8,500 4-.0 160 2.1

MDW-l 4-2-66 .005 min. 10.0 26 8,500 4.0 160 2.1

Pinion position, 1-25/32 ~ 1/16 inches from face of mounting flange to edge of pinion.

MDO-4002M Use Test MDO-O CCW Rotation

MDO-4-003M Use Test MDO-l CW Rotation

MDW-4001M Use Test MDW-O CW Rotation

MDW-4-002M Use Test MDW-l CCW Rotation

REGULATORSPECIFICATIONS

Part No.System VoltageGround Polarity Armature Air Gap

Circuit BreakerVoltage Reg.

Current RegulatorCurrent Regulator

Setting Amps

GENERATORSPECI FICATIONS

VRU-610lA12Negative

Generator GJG-4-001MGJG-4-002M

Rot. D.E. CGround Polarity NegativeBrush Spring

Tension 12-24- oz •

Field Coil DrawVolts 10.0Amps 1.7-1.9

Monitoring DrawVolts 10.0Amps 5.0-6.0

Genera tor Ou tputVolts 15.0Max. Amps 10.0Max. RPM 7,000

.031-.034- in.

.04-8-.052 in.•048-.052 in.

9.0-11.0

CB Shunt Winding 107 to 121 ohmsVR Winding 4-3.7 to 4-9.3 ohms

Circui t BreakerClose VoltsOpen Amps

Discharge

12.6-13.6

3.0-5.0

Regulator (Hotl Operating VoltagesTolerance - .4-Volt

15.2 Volts15.0 Volts14-.8 Volts14-.6Volts

These figures are for a unit in normaloperation while charging at 1/2 ratedoutput or with 1/4- ohm fixed resistorin series with the battery.

500F800FI100F14-0oF

APPENDIX A-13

CONDENSER SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE MODEL CONDENSER MFDSIZE OMC PART NO. CAPACITY

1.5 hp All 580321 18-223.0 hp All 580321 18-224.0 hp All 580321 18-225.0 hp All 580321 18-225.5 hp All 580321 18-226.0 hp All 580321 18-227.5 hp All 580321 18-229.5 hp All 580321 18-2210 hp All 580321 18-2215 hp All 580321 18-2218 hp 1957-61 580321 18-2230 hp All 580321 18-2235 hp All 580321 18-2240 hp 1960-61 580321 18-2218 hp 1962-72 580419 25-2920 hp All 580419 25-2925 hp All 580419 25-2928 hp All 580419 25-2933 hp All 580419 25-2940 hp All 580419 25-29

A-14 APPENDIX

STARTER ROPE SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE SIZE MODEL DIAMETER LENGTHINCHES INCHES

1.5 hp 1968-70 382712Note 2

3.0 hp 1956-61 5/32 65-1/4-

3.0 hp 1962-67 5/32 71-1/2

3.0 hp 1968 0.130 564-.0 hp 1969-70 0.130 64-

5.0 hp 1965-67 0.130 64-

5.0 hp 1968 0.130 56

5.5 hp 1956-61 5/32 70

5.5 hp 1962-64- 5/32 71-1/2

6.0 hp 1965-67 0.130 64-

6.0 hp 1968-70 0.130 56

7.5 hp 1956-5~ 5/32 70

9.5 hp 1964--70 5/32 71-1/2

10 hp 1956-61 7/32 70-3/16

10 hp 1962-63 7/32 75-3/4-

15 hp 1956 7/32 70-3/16

18 hp 1957-61 7/32 70-3/16

18 hp 1962-70 7/32 75-3/4-

20 hp 1966-70 7/32 75-3/4-

25 hp 1969-70 7/32 75-3/4-

28 hp 1962-64- 7/32 75-3/4-

30 hp 1956 7/32 69-3/4-

33 hp 1965-70 7/32 75-3/4-

35 hp 1957-59 7/32 73-3/4-4-0hp 1960-70 7/32 75-3/4-

Notes

1- Purchase a good grade of nylon rope.

2- Order OMC part number. Rope includes handle.

APPENDIX A-15

KEYSWITCH

WHITE

BLACKBLACK

GREEN

CHOKESWITCH

BLACKWIRE

REDWIRE

o

BLACK BATTERY CABLE(-NEG) SWITCH

CABLE RED BATTERY CABLE(+POS.)

SOLENOID TOGROUND

RED

CARBURETORCHOKE

SOLENOID

WHITE

GREEN

PORT MOTORBRACKET

LOWER SCREW

GROUND (-)

Wire Identification - 20 hp and 25 hp - 1911-12

A-16 APPENDIX

Wire Identification - 33 hp with Generator - 1965-67

APPENDIX A-17

o

<C<.:::>

Wire Identification - 33 hp with Generator - 1969-70

APPENDIX A-19

Wire Identification - 35 hp - 1957-59

A-20 APPENDIX

Wire Identification - 40 hp Standard Shift with Generator - 1960-66

APPENDIX A-21

<:>UJcc

b'

Wire Identification - 40 hp Standard Shift with Generator - 1967-68

A-22 APPENDIX

eeI.UVlZ~ZoU

II

Wire Identification - 40 hp Standard Shift With Generator -1969-10

APPENDIX

Wire Identification - 40 hp Electric Shift with Generator - 1961-66

A-23

A-24 APPENDIX

••

\

<C

'"00


NOTES & NUMBERS

Boat Motor Service Manual

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